Podcasts about bob van dyke question

Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat? Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available.  However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make? A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue Question 3:   From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time. Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, “I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...”. If you’re making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw.  Keep up the great work, see y’all at FWWlive! Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat? Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available.  However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make? A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue Question 3:   From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time. Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, “I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...”. If you’re making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw.  Keep up the great work, see y’all at FWWlive! Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well. Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Issue Question 2: From Joe: To build a bed for my grandson I ordered 50 bd ft of rough lumber,  Black walnut. The wood was beautiful but this is where my confusion began. I got the job done but I don't know if I went about it the best way. The bed with headboard, frame, 6 drawers underneath, and footboard had over 100 pieces. All the lumber was about 8 inches wide and about 10 feet long. Is it better to mill the long boards and then layout all the parts, or layout the parts oversize and cut them out and send smaller pieces through the planer and jointer? Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool Mike: 6-in. Combo Square Bob: Stanley #4–Type 11 Ben: Lie Nielsen honing guide Video: Modifying an inexpensive honing guide by Bob Van Dyke Question 3:   From Mike: I’ve come to realize my jointer needs tuning, and i recall you guys saying how you set your outfeed table a hair lower than your cutter head. I can’t find the episode that contains this discussion, but i don’t recall there being any reasoning for this. I adjusted mine as y’all suggested but found this was causing the trailing ends of the boards to not touch the blades. After reading my powermatic manual, it says to have the outfeed table level with blade, so what’s up with your hack causing me this grief? Video Workshop: Machine Setup – The Jointer with Matt Wajda Recommendations: Ben - Apple Music's Wes Montgomery Essentials playist Mike - Pickles from Rein's Deli in Vernon, CT Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well. Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Issue Question 2: From Joe: To build a bed for my grandson I ordered 50 bd ft of rough lumber,  Black walnut. The wood was beautiful but this is where my confusion began. I got the job done but I don't know if I went about it the best way. The bed with headboard, frame, 6 drawers underneath, and footboard had over 100 pieces. All the lumber was about 8 inches wide and about 10 feet long. Is it better to mill the long boards and then layout all the parts, or layout the parts oversize and cut them out and send smaller pieces through the planer and jointer? Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool Mike: 6-in. Combo Square Bob: Stanley #4–Type 11 Ben: Lie Nielsen honing guide Video: Modifying an inexpensive honing guide by Bob Van Dyke Question 3:   From Mike: I’ve come to realize my jointer needs tuning, and i recall you guys saying how you set your outfeed table a hair lower than your cutter head. I can’t find the episode that contains this discussion, but i don’t recall there being any reasoning for this. I adjusted mine as y’all suggested but found this was causing the trailing ends of the boards to not touch the blades. After reading my powermatic manual, it says to have the outfeed table level with blade, so what’s up with your hack causing me this grief? Video Workshop: Machine Setup – The Jointer with Matt Wajda Recommendations: Ben - Apple Music's Wes Montgomery Essentials playist Mike - Pickles from Rein's Deli in Vernon, CT Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.