Podcasts about dw735

Brians Questions: I currently have a Sawstop PCS 1.75, an 8” Laguna spiral head jointer, a Jet two-stage dust collector, a Laguna 1412 bandsaw, a Bosch cabinet style router table, a Dewalt DW734 lunchbox planer, an entry-level CNC, a Festool ETS125, a Festool dust extractor and various smaller power tools. I'm not particularly happy with the stability, adjustability and fence on my Bosch router table and I feel like my planer isn't giving my a consistent cut across its width. I'm thinking of upgrading either the router table to something with an Incra lift, or maybe a planer like the DW735 with helical head or similar. However, I've also been seriously considering a Festool Domino DF500. Lately I've been working on decorative boxes and small furniture like side tables and coffee tables. Who knows what's next? What would you purchase next and what do you think would make the biggest difference in my woodworking? Thanks, Kevin Westbrooks Hey this is Brooks from BROOKS BOARDS in Utah, I really enjoy the podcast while I work on the shop, and a lot of my questions get answered, but I was hope maybe you could help me understand the best way to round over a board that is a curved shape like my longboards I make, when I use a bearing router bit the issue is that when you flip the board to route the other side where the bearing would ride along the wood it routed off so the roundover is un-even and usually a line is left over, would you guys have a potential solution to this? I would love your suggestion, thanks in advance you guys are awesome. Brooks Guys Questions: When making flat panel drawer fronts I keep running into drawer fronts that need to be just a little bigger than my 8" jointer. Say 9-10" tall. Most of the rough stock I buy is 8-8.5". In this case I have two options, use two boards of similar grain and try to hide the glue joint which becomes a straight grain only situation. Or make a veneer drawer front with some wider stock if i can find it. How do all these European cabinet makers do it with large flat drawer fronts. Do they all just have a 12-16" jointers? Jesse Hi y'all! I'm Chris. I love your podcast and listen to it while I  drive for work. I am on my second round of listening while I wait for the new episode to drop! I will be proposing to my fiance soon and I am making a ring box for her engagement ring. I am going to use White Oak and I have seen several videos of guys using a rub on finish that slightly darkens the wood and leaves a minimal sheen. I am wondering what finish you would use for durability, to darken the wood, and leave no sheen! Thanks and love the show! Chris Huys Questions: I have a Makita Track Saw which I purchased a couple of years ago.  I use it only for cutting full sheets of plywood and melamine, mostly plywood.  Although I haven't used it all that much the Makita brand saw blade is not making clean cuts and leaving burn marks on the sheet goods.  It's a 48 tooth blade measuring 165mm x 20mm. I cleaned the blade hoping that would solve the issue but it hasn't.  The cut quality is the same.  I've considered sending the blade out for sharpening but not sure if it's worth it.  I'm thinking my money might be better spent buying a new blade.  I could always buy a new blade and have the Makita blade resharpened and use it only for cutting melamine.  I'm sure track saw blades are not all made equal so I'm looking for your recommendation for a new blade based on your knowledge and experience.   I'm interested in saw blade brands as well as the type of blade such as the number of teeth for making clean cuts in plywood.  Looking forward to your comments and thanks for hosting such an informative podcast. Jack Francis Hey guys, I'm a long time listener and continue to learn with every episode. You're one of only two podcasts I listen to cause there's no stupidness and you just talk woodworking and don't feel the need to waste the listeners time talking about what you had for lunch or whatever other personal garbage every other woodworking podcast seems to delve into. I have a very simple question. Last week I was routing a dado in some oak with a quarter inch straight bit. Nothing unusual about the setup and nothing I hadn't done a hundred times before. This time, however, the bit managed to come loose from the collet and came up through the work piece and essentially ruined it. Has this happened to you guys? Should I assume that I just didn't tighten it enough? Should I be constantly checking it as I'm batching parts? This one bugged me cause I don't feel like I know how to prevent it in the future. Any advice would be appreciated! Bill

Question 1:  From Chase: I have an old 13" hitachi planer I got from craigslist many years ago.  It has served me well but is starting to have issues. 13 inches has been useful, but at times I wish it was wider.  In your experience is it worth the extra money to buy something bigger, or should I stick with a more reasonable choice like DW735?  I have 220v access and floor space, so that isn't an issue. I am in my 30s, have been woodworking for ~10 years. I would like to keep woodworking into my 80s, so I can justify a longer term investment.  I can afford a 1.5 or 2k tool, but could buy something else if I stuck with a cheaper planer.   Segemented Cutterheads Change the Game     Question 2: From Martin: I know Mike likes to have a small offset between the rails and stiles of his frame-and-panel doors. But how does he then avoid chipping the unsupported inside corners of the stiles when planing the top and bottom of the door to fit the opening?   How to Fit an Inset Door - Systematic approach yields perfect results every time  Install Inset Doors With Ease - Four-step process uses the jointer and tablesaw to guarantee a perfect fit   Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time Barry: SketchUp How To Create New SketchUp Textures For Your Models  Mike: Suizan Japanese Saws and DFM Dowel Plate Japanese Sew Overview with Andrea Hunter Ben: Shopmade Hot Pipe Bender Video: Hot Pipe Bender   Question 3: From RobGoSlow on YouTube: I'm not sure where to submit questions for the podcast but I have one: I'm a very new wood worker with a lower end contractor table saw. Obviously things like the blade angle and fence are not very precise but I want to know what sources of error are there to look out for? What are the types of error you're concerned about with a cheap table saw?  Portable Saws   Question 4: From Capt. Zachary J. Daniels: I want to buy a block plane from Lie-Nielsen.  I know Mike is a fan of the adjustable mouth block plane.  However, I also remember Mike and Matt Kenney having a spirited debate where Matt was extolling the virtues of the rabbeting block plane. I can’t seem to find the original discussion between Matt and Mike.  Instead of listening to the entire catalog again, (and without Matt around to defend himself) I’m interested to hear Mike’s opinion on why he prefers the adjustable mouth block plane over the rabbeting block plane. Right now, I only want to buy one block plane as I also have my eye on the No. 62 low angle jack.     Thanks for the show and keep up the great work!  I became an unlimited member after listening to several of the podcasts, so keep the content coming and inspiring others!    Rabbet Planes Are Real Shop Workhorses The Best Way to Fit Tenons    Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Question 1:  From Chase: I have an old 13" hitachi planer I got from craigslist many years ago.  It has served me well but is starting to have issues. 13 inches has been useful, but at times I wish it was wider.  In your experience is it worth the extra money to buy something bigger, or should I stick with a more reasonable choice like DW735?  I have 220v access and floor space, so that isn't an issue. I am in my 30s, have been woodworking for ~10 years. I would like to keep woodworking into my 80s, so I can justify a longer term investment.  I can afford a 1.5 or 2k tool, but could buy something else if I stuck with a cheaper planer.   Segemented Cutterheads Change the Game     Question 2: From Martin: I know Mike likes to have a small offset between the rails and stiles of his frame-and-panel doors. But how does he then avoid chipping the unsupported inside corners of the stiles when planing the top and bottom of the door to fit the opening?   How to Fit an Inset Door - Systematic approach yields perfect results every time  Install Inset Doors With Ease - Four-step process uses the jointer and tablesaw to guarantee a perfect fit   Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time Barry: SketchUp How To Create New SketchUp Textures For Your Models  Mike: Suizan Japanese Saws and DFM Dowel Plate Japanese Sew Overview with Andrea Hunter Ben: Shopmade Hot Pipe Bender Video: Hot Pipe Bender   Question 3: From RobGoSlow on YouTube: I'm not sure where to submit questions for the podcast but I have one: I'm a very new wood worker with a lower end contractor table saw. Obviously things like the blade angle and fence are not very precise but I want to know what sources of error are there to look out for? What are the types of error you're concerned about with a cheap table saw?  Portable Saws   Question 4: From Capt. Zachary J. Daniels: I want to buy a block plane from Lie-Nielsen.  I know Mike is a fan of the adjustable mouth block plane.  However, I also remember Mike and Matt Kenney having a spirited debate where Matt was extolling the virtues of the rabbeting block plane. I can’t seem to find the original discussion between Matt and Mike.  Instead of listening to the entire catalog again, (and without Matt around to defend himself) I’m interested to hear Mike’s opinion on why he prefers the adjustable mouth block plane over the rabbeting block plane. Right now, I only want to buy one block plane as I also have my eye on the No. 62 low angle jack.     Thanks for the show and keep up the great work!  I became an unlimited member after listening to several of the podcasts, so keep the content coming and inspiring others!    Rabbet Planes Are Real Shop Workhorses The Best Way to Fit Tenons    Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3:   From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike -  Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3:   From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike -  Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Guys Questions: 1) Loving the podcast gentlemen, listened to all 10 episodes in the last 2 days. Now for my question: I know all three of you do a lot of your sanding using the drum sander, but for us without the room for one what is your recommend sanding procedure. Hand sand vs. random orbital sander? Grit progression? ROS preference? Just give me all that great knowledge you have!! Thanks again guy! -Project Build stuff - Brad 2) I'm in the market for a router table and lift. All of the router lifts appear to be more or less the same, many being produced by Jessem. Router compatibility isn't a concern, as I'll mount the ubiquitous PC 7518. Can you talk about the Kreg PRS5000 and how it compares to the Jessem (and thus Incra) lifts, woodpeckers PRL-V2, etc? I haven't found much info out there. They all seem to feature above-table bit changes, micro adjustment, etc. Is there any actual difference between all these, or should I just pick my favorite color? Thanks! - Kevin   Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, I'm really enjoying the podcast. I have a question for you. When starting woodworking a block plane always seems to be high on the list for "must have tools". I purchase one and agree it is extremely usefully. However several times I'm need the rabbet block plane instead. I know I loose that function with a standard block plane but If I had purchased the rabbet block plane instead what functionality would I have sacrificed? Keep the saw dust flying. Josh 2) What concerns should I have with my jointer and planer being at my father in-law's shop; due to spacing and budget. Should I mill it and let it acclimate there or bring it back to my shop to let it acclimate? Could I get by with hand tools at my shop if there's any additional movement after acclimating at his shop? I should add that our planer is a DW735, so that is portable between the shops. Also, I use kiln dried lumber and my shop isn't yet heated but his is and more climate controlled.-Nik   Huys Questions: 1) Alright my question is all about hand tool cabinets/hand tool walls. What are your most reached for items? What were the thoughts on tool placement and ergonomics when you built yours? Have you had to rebuild upon acquiring new tools or remodel to accommodate shifts in your preferences? To be clear I’m not looking for the “these are the top five tools to get first when on a budget” kind of thing when I ask about most reached for. I’m trying to plan ahead and build something a bit “future proof” with the ability to expand as I acquire new tools. So don’t feel bad talking about “x” high-end thing that you love and reach for often. I’m excited to hear about what those items are, regardless of price point. Because that will be something I can weigh in on whether or not it’s a tool I could see myself getting down the road and would consider saving some space for. Love the show, keep up the great work! -Jonathan Scott woodworks 2) Very much enjoying your podcast and it’s focus on woodworking questions and techniques. I’m in the process of building and designing a new workbench for my shop. I have the Rockler quick release face vise but I can’t seem to find a solid answer as to how to install it. Should the inner face of the vise be flush with the workbench top, or should I install it so that the inner face is a separate piece from the workbench top? Curious as to your opinions on this matter. - Dustin