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5 episodes with steve latta
This episode is brought to you by Pony/Jorgenson and Titebond. Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
This episode is brought to you by Pony/Jorgenson and Titebond. Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat? Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available. However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make? A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue Question 3: From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time. Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, “I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...”. If you’re making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw. Keep up the great work, see y’all at FWWlive! Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Question 1: From Paul: Heide Martin’s serving trays in the May/June 2018 are beautiful and I have since made a couple. My question is about keeping the bottom boards flat. I cut some walnut that had been air dried for probably 20 years. In an hour or two both boards cupped. I then sequentially tried wetting one side, wetting both sides, soaking in water, soaking in fabric softener, each time clamping the boards to keep them flat and leaving for days and days to dry out. None of these things worked and in the end I ended up using some walnut plywood instead. How do you folks keep wide, thin boards flat? Working with Warped Panels by Christian Becksvoort #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video Series: Veneering Basics by Bob Van Dyke Question 2: From Richard: In reality we all have limited amount of shop time available. However, if the amount of time you could work on a project was not limited what one piece would you choose to make? A Journey to Bombé - Veteran woodworker Dan Faia plunges into the project of a lifetime by Thomas McKenna #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using pocket holes to quickly make and change full-size mockups Tom: Beveling an edge of a workpiece with a handplane Ben: Riding the back of the blade to start a cut on the edge of workpiece Flawless Curves on the Bandsaw by Michael Fortune #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue Question 3: From Mark: I have been building furniture full-time for just over a year. Is it legal and/or ethical to build something from the magazine or a video workshop and then sell it? For instance, if a client asks me to build 4 Adirondack chairs, my thought is build them loosely based on what I find at Fine Woodworking, vs. reinventing the wheel with my own design every-time. Is it OK to sell furniture based on FWW articles? by Asa Christiana Question 4: From John: I was reading a FWW article by Steve Latta in issue #241 about draw-bored tenons where he said, “I make pins from riftsawn or quartersawn stock...”. If you’re making dowels, how can it possibly make any difference whatsoever if you use quartersawn or plain sawn boards? I still like Steve Latta, btw. Keep up the great work, see y’all at FWWlive! Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Question 1: From Tony: We hear so much talk about Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868! TimeTestedTools.net Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html Question 2: From Matt: I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak. Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Segment: Smooth Move Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade Question 3: From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction. Question 4: From Phillip: I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak. What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes? Recommendations: Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Question 1: From Tony: We hear so much talk about Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868! TimeTestedTools.net Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html Question 2: From Matt: I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak. Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Segment: Smooth Move Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade Question 3: From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction. Question 4: From Phillip: I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak. What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes? Recommendations: Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence. All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain. How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards. I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist. Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence. All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain. How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Matt, Anissa, and Ben discuss tablesaw safety, working with round parts, drawbore joinery, wood movement, and their all-time favorite articles Show notes are available at http://www.ShopTalkLive.com Articles discussed in this episode: Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K9mFWz Understanding Wood Movement by Christian Becksvoort #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2IdHNZN Five Essential Bandsaw Jigs by Michael Fortune #180–Nov/Dev 2005 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K96xo7 Greatest Commission Ever? by Jonathan Binzen #198–May/June 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K872i4 ARK Shark Guard from Leeway Workshop – A riving knife for old cabinet saws by Matt Kenney - http://bit.ly/2K4q7BL Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh
Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Matt, Anissa, and Ben discuss tablesaw safety, working with round parts, drawbore joinery, wood movement, and their all-time favorite articles Show notes are available at http://www.ShopTalkLive.com Articles discussed in this episode: Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K9mFWz Understanding Wood Movement by Christian Becksvoort #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2IdHNZN Five Essential Bandsaw Jigs by Michael Fortune #180–Nov/Dev 2005 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K96xo7 Greatest Commission Ever? by Jonathan Binzen #198–May/June 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2K872i4 ARK Shark Guard from Leeway Workshop – A riving knife for old cabinet saws by Matt Kenney - http://bit.ly/2K4q7BL Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh
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