Podcast appearances and mentions of mike using

Dr. Michael D. Smith, widely known in the engineering world as Dr. Mike, credits his graduate school pivot to a chance notice of a brochure on a bulletin board.  Though he entered a doctoral program seeking a PhD in engineering, he earned a Doctorate of Engineering, D. Eng degree which he describes as a combination of a PhD and and MBA.  A life long advocate for underrepresented groups to pursue STEM degrees, Dr. Mike has utilized his degree in a range of capacities spanning STEM education, STEM operations and programming at nonprofit organizations, and independent consulting. Connect with Dr. Mike on LinkedIn

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards.  I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist.  Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.   All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.  How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards.  I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist.  Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.   All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.  How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

MARKETING WITH MIKE ...  Join Michael Pancoe every week as he talks about building our businesses and tips on how we can improve our marketing techniques. With his MBA and also the Marketing Director in his family run business, Michael has a wealth of knowledge in this area.  Tonight, Michael will speak on Marketing through Testimonials and how to grow your business through other peoples' stories!