Podcast appearances and mentions of craig thibodeau

Leave a comment on this episodes show notes page to be entered in the giveaway of Craig Thibodeau's book, The Craft of Veneering.  Peter Galbert’s FWW Live 2018 Keynote Speech - Unsurprisingly, the journey of a windsor chairmaker is rarely a straight line   Question 1: From David: I have avoided cordless power tools because as a hobbyist and renter, I seldom use the tools outside of the basement workshop. I've been told I don't know what I'm missing, but it seems my wallet prefers it that way.  I'm most concerned about trying to commit to one brand/manufacturer or contend with the expense and hassle of having multiple chargers and batteries that aren't compatible. Do you feel as though it makes sense to keep all of your cordless power tools within the same brand? Or is my concern unfounded? If you had to commit to a brand, what would they be and why? Question 2: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard. Segment: Smooth Move Ben: Not looking at the fine print on a router bearing Anissa: Not looking at the sticker telling her which way to assemble a part on a dust collector Question 3:   From J: Hey folks, I recently volunteered to be the shop manager for my local guild of woodworkers.  We have a 16” Oliver that apparently, according to some, must never have its bed waxed. They prefer it is cleaned only with kerosene, the reason being that it’s believed waxing a jointer bed will cause glue joints to fail. Any merit to this train of thought? Or can I just wax it and make everyone’s lives easier. Mike recommendation of TopCote is now called GlideCote Ben uses and recommends SlipIt Question 4: From Joe: I’ve gotten very good at sharpening my hand plane blades as well as making my wood surface feel silky smooth off the hand plane.  When using a 2 pound cut shellac as a finish, do I need to rough up wood surface with sandpaper (such as 300 grit) so the shellac can stick better to the wood surface? Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episodes show notes page to be entered in the giveaway of Craig Thibodeau's book, The Craft of Veneering.  Peter Galbert’s FWW Live 2018 Keynote Speech - Unsurprisingly, the journey of a windsor chairmaker is rarely a straight line   Question 1: From David: I have avoided cordless power tools because as a hobbyist and renter, I seldom use the tools outside of the basement workshop. I've been told I don't know what I'm missing, but it seems my wallet prefers it that way.  I'm most concerned about trying to commit to one brand/manufacturer or contend with the expense and hassle of having multiple chargers and batteries that aren't compatible. Do you feel as though it makes sense to keep all of your cordless power tools within the same brand? Or is my concern unfounded? If you had to commit to a brand, what would they be and why? Question 2: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard. Segment: Smooth Move Ben: Not looking at the fine print on a router bearing Anissa: Not looking at the sticker telling her which way to assemble a part on a dust collector Question 3:   From J: Hey folks, I recently volunteered to be the shop manager for my local guild of woodworkers.  We have a 16” Oliver that apparently, according to some, must never have its bed waxed. They prefer it is cleaned only with kerosene, the reason being that it’s believed waxing a jointer bed will cause glue joints to fail. Any merit to this train of thought? Or can I just wax it and make everyone’s lives easier. Mike recommendation of TopCote is now called GlideCote Ben uses and recommends SlipIt Question 4: From Joe: I’ve gotten very good at sharpening my hand plane blades as well as making my wood surface feel silky smooth off the hand plane.  When using a 2 pound cut shellac as a finish, do I need to rough up wood surface with sandpaper (such as 300 grit) so the shellac can stick better to the wood surface? Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Normally here I post a bunch of links. I'm going to be honest, you just need one link on this, Craig's website. Everything he discusses is easily found on his website, and the site itself is wonderfully done. It's worth going to just to see how a real pro presents their work. Plus, while you're there you can buy a signed copy of his book! -Ben https://ctfinefurniture.com/

Normally here I post a bunch of links. I'm going to be honest, you just need one link on this, Craig's website. Everything he discusses is easily found on his website, and the site itself is wonderfully done. It's worth going to just to see how a real pro presents their work. Plus, while you're there you can buy a signed copy of his book! -Ben https://ctfinefurniture.com/

Criag Thibodeau returns for the 5 questions.

Craig Thibodeau stops by to chat with Kyle and Sean about his work, his veneering and his wonderful new book, The Craft of Veneering.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

A puzzling conversation with studio furniture maestro, Craig Thibodeau. Listen in as we peel back the layers of veneer to find out what is truly at his substrate.

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

This week we interview our featured craftsman from episode 9, Craig Thibodeau (Instagram, Website).  Craig is a phenomenally talented fine furniture maker who specializes in inlays, marquetry, and parquetry.  He […]

This week we turn to furniture maker Craig Thibodeau for answers on how to use foamy Gorilla Glue for fine furniture projects. Plus, your questions on planing end grain, working with live edge slabs, and more.

This week we turn to furniture maker Craig Thibodeau for answers on how to use foamy Gorilla Glue for fine furniture projects. Plus, your questions on planing end grain, working with live edge slabs, and more.

Furniture maker and FWW contributor Craig Thibodeau sits in for an interview on this week's edition. Plus, your woodworking questions answered.

Furniture maker and FWW contributor Craig Thibodeau sits in for an interview on this week's edition. Plus, your woodworking questions answered.