Podcast appearances and mentions of michael pekovich

Question 1: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows.  Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods as shown on Rough Cut.  Where can I get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. He always has great ideas that are very valuable. The Whiteside router bit Mike mentions can be found here Question 2: From Madison: I was wondering how long it took Mike to build the tea box featured in magazine issue 269.   Dovetailed Tea Box by Michael Pekovich #269–July/August 2018 Issue Segment:  Ben: Steam bending everything! Question 3: From Matt: How would someone go about preparing kumiko strips without a tablesaw or drum sander?   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike what Mike shows.  Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods as shown on Rough Cut.  Where can I get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. He always has great ideas that are very valuable. The Whiteside router bit Mike mentions can be found here Question 2: From Madison: I was wondering how long it took Mike to build the tea box featured in magazine issue 269.   Dovetailed Tea Box by Michael Pekovich #269–July/August 2018 Issue Segment:  Ben: Steam bending everything! Question 3: From Matt: How would someone go about preparing kumiko strips without a tablesaw or drum sander?   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade. Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue  Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me. Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw Question 3:   From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I’m using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can’t seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don’t think the 3000 stone is my problem. I’ve thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don’t want a $100 experiment. Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it’s a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife’s car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won’t increase vibration. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade. Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue  Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me. Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw Question 3:   From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I’m using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can’t seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don’t think the 3000 stone is my problem. I’ve thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don’t want a $100 experiment. Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it’s a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife’s car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won’t increase vibration. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?   Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers. Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations: Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?   Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers. Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations: Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Tony: We hear so much talk about  Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868! TimeTestedTools.net Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html Question 2: From Matt: I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak. Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue  Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Segment: Smooth Move Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade Question 3: From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction. Question 4: From Phillip: I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak. What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes?  Recommendations: Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Tony: We hear so much talk about  Lie Nielsen, Veritas, and Stanley hand planes but, I have a Millers Falls No. 8 that i picked up from an Antique store, that works really well. I don't think I’ve ever heard the Millers Falls Name be mentioned on the Podcast, so I am wondering if they’re any good? They seem to have been in contention with Stanley and they are American made from New England no less, since 1868! TimeTestedTools.net Ron Hock replacement plane blades -http://www.hocktools.com/products/bp.html Question 2: From Matt: I have been wanting to do a project using drawbore mortise and tenon joints. Is it a bad idea to attempt this type of joint in a softer woods like cherry or walnut, rather than oak. Drawbored Tenons by Steve Latta #241–July/Aug 2014 Issue  Video: Chris Gochnour - Drawboring and Gluing Up the Face Frame Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Segment: Smooth Move Mike - Forgetting that someone commissioned something from him, not those he looks up to Barry - Making a mistake on a piece, remaking the piece, then accidentally using the mistake on the final piece Ben - Trying to get away with not making a proper sled and accidentally dropping a piece on the tablesaw blade Question 3: From Bob: Can someone explain the difference between a scrub plane and a smooth plane? They seem similar in size and construction. Question 4: From Phillip: I am looking to build a dining room table to a friend of mine, and am wondering what type of wood would be best to use. I have narrowed it down to White Oak, Cherry, and Walnut. The friend that I am making this for is a military man, and so gets stationed at different bases around the country every few years. My main concern is the table warping or splitting due to the drastic location and environmental changes that he will come across. Obviously, being a dining room table it also must be sturdy and not be too prone to scratches, dings, etc. White Oak is very wear resistant, but has a medium-high shrinkage value. Cherry is pretty stable once dried, but is softer and may get more dings. Walnut seems to be the middle road, being harder and less susceptible to scratches than Cherry but less likely to shrink/warp than White Oak. What type of wood would you suggest that is going to be resistant to scratches and dings, yet won't warp or split in drastic climate changes?  Recommendations: Barry - Dedicated Shop Shoes Ben - Chris Thile's Thank You, New York"Mike - Tom Waits' album Swordfish Trombones Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Matt: I have 3 questions about getting into kumiko: 1.) What (Japanese) chisel would you recommend starting with? Hida Tool - HidaTool.com Iida Tool - JapanTool-Iida.com 2.) What online/printed resources would you recommend? Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Mike Farrington's Kumiko work on YouTube John Reed Fox on Roy Underhill's Woodwright's Shop 3.) Any thoughts on preparing the strips without a tablesaw or drum sander? Question 2: From Martti: What is it in your preferred kumiko construction that ensures trouble-free cleanup over time for quite some years and decades? Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Ben - Loading magnets into a brass tube in order to keep the polarity correct K and J Magnetics Mike - Sharpening a chisel to 20º-25º for paring end-grain on pine Question 3: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike  what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods.  Where can you get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. Mike building his tea box on PBS Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Matt: I have 3 questions about getting into kumiko: 1.) What (Japanese) chisel would you recommend starting with? Hida Tool - HidaTool.com Iida Tool - JapanTool-Iida.com 2.) What online/printed resources would you recommend? Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Mike Farrington's Kumiko work on YouTube John Reed Fox on Roy Underhill's Woodwright's Shop 3.) Any thoughts on preparing the strips without a tablesaw or drum sander? Question 2: From Martti: What is it in your preferred kumiko construction that ensures trouble-free cleanup over time for quite some years and decades? Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Ben - Loading magnets into a brass tube in order to keep the polarity correct K and J Magnetics Mike - Sharpening a chisel to 20º-25º for paring end-grain on pine Question 3: From Al: I am having some trouble laying out the pins and tales on the Wenge in the more traditional way, unlike  what Mike shows. Wenge is extremely hard and not at all forgiving and the grain tends to be a problem in scribing the wood. Perhaps this is why he choose to do this with the table saw and router methods.  Where can you get the table saw blade and the router bit to do it like Mike. Mike building his tea box on PBS Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1 Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh Links from the show: Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1 Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh Links from the show: Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq

Justin, Brian, and Rob sit down to talk craft with Fine Woodworking's creative director, who is also a regular on the Shop Talk Live podcast.

Join us for this episode as we speak with guest Michael Pekovich of Fine Woodworking magazine. For show note and more on the MWA visit: http://modernwoodworkersassociation.com

Fine Woodworking editor Asa Christiana, art director Michael Pekovich, and senior web producer Ed Pirnik answer questions from readers and present a few of their favorite woodworking techniques in a brand new segment.

Fine Woodworking editor Asa Christiana, art director Michael Pekovich, and senior web producer Ed Pirnik answer questions from readers and present a few of their favorite woodworking techniques in a brand new segment.