Podcast appearances and mentions of bob van dyke

Amanda sits down with Mike Mascellii and Bob Van Dyke to answer questions and chat about Fine Woodworking New England. Get your tickets for Fine Woodworking New England - https://secure.interactiveticketing.com/1.43/83104a/#/select For more information about our other eLearning courses - http://www.finewoodworking.com/elearning For more information about our Woodworking Fundamentals journey - http://www.finewoodworking.com/fundamentals Join us on our new Discord server! - https://discord.gg/8hyuwqu4JH Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@finewoodworking.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page. Join us on our Discord server here.

Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Amanda to discuss dovetail layout lines, tambour doors, and designing to a specific board. Also, Amanda and Ben discuss the fading future of affordable table saws.  For more information about our eLearning courses - http://www.finewoodworking.com/elearning Find out more about Fine Woodworking New England here: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2024/03/06/fine-woodworking-new-england-april-26-27 For more information about our Woodworking Fundamentals journey - http://www.finewoodworking.com/fundamentals Join us on our new Discord server! - https://discord.gg/8hyuwqu4JH Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@finewoodworking.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss sharpening to 80 grit, which wood is best for bending, bandsaw blade issues, and shoulder planes. Sign up for our Woodworking Fundamentals journey here - www.finewoodworking.com/fundamentals 0:00 - Intro 2:23 - What's new at Bob's? 11:34 - Gluing hinges on a box? 19:41 - Steam bending wood 29:48 - Segments 40:35 - Sharpening to 80 grit 52:15 - Breaking bandsaw blades 59:10 - What shoulder plane to get? For more information about our eLearning courses - http://www.finewoodworking.com/elearning Join us on our new Discord server! - https://discord.gg/8hyuwqu4JH Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss table saw blade sharpening, drill press height, scary router bits coming loose, and his upcoming dovetail bootcamp. Larissa Huff's Hand-routed Lettering video: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2022/09/16/hand-routed-lettering Full-length Sam Maloof documentary: https://www.finewoodworking.com/2022/09/21/sam-maloof-woodworking-profile 0:00 - Intro 2:47 - Dovetail bootcamp - https://www.finewoodworking.com/elearning 20:34 - Table saw blade sharpening 32:49 - Drill press table height 43:34 - Segments 1:02:04 - Router bit on the move! Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss story sticks, cooling glue to get more open time, spring joints and admits to milling MDF on his machines! Sponsored by Grizzly Industrial 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Are woodworking classes tiring? 10:59 - When do you make a story stick? 19:36 - Can you get more open time by cooling your glue? 31:33 - Segments 46:06 - 5 spring joints at once? 58:26 - How deep of a cut do you take on a jointer? 1:04:47 - Bob mills MDF on his machines!!!!!!! Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss story sticks, cooling glue to get more open time, spring joints and admits to milling MDF on his machines! Sponsored by Grizzly Industrial 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Are woodworking classes tiring? 10:59 - When do you make a story stick? 19:36 - Can you get more open time by cooling your glue? 31:33 - Segments 46:06 - 5 spring joints at once? 58:26 - How deep of a cut do you take on a jointer? 1:04:47 - Bob mills MDF on his machines!!!!!!! Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well. Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Issue Question 2: From Joe: To build a bed for my grandson I ordered 50 bd ft of rough lumber,  Black walnut. The wood was beautiful but this is where my confusion began. I got the job done but I don't know if I went about it the best way. The bed with headboard, frame, 6 drawers underneath, and footboard had over 100 pieces. All the lumber was about 8 inches wide and about 10 feet long. Is it better to mill the long boards and then layout all the parts, or layout the parts oversize and cut them out and send smaller pieces through the planer and jointer? Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool Mike: 6-in. Combo Square Bob: Stanley #4–Type 11 Ben: Lie Nielsen honing guide Video: Modifying an inexpensive honing guide by Bob Van Dyke Question 3:   From Mike: I’ve come to realize my jointer needs tuning, and i recall you guys saying how you set your outfeed table a hair lower than your cutter head. I can’t find the episode that contains this discussion, but i don’t recall there being any reasoning for this. I adjusted mine as y’all suggested but found this was causing the trailing ends of the boards to not touch the blades. After reading my powermatic manual, it says to have the outfeed table level with blade, so what’s up with your hack causing me this grief? Video Workshop: Machine Setup – The Jointer with Matt Wajda Recommendations: Ben - Apple Music's Wes Montgomery Essentials playist Mike - Pickles from Rein's Deli in Vernon, CT Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Enter for your chance to win Fine Woodworking's Shop Giveaway: Upgrade to Laguna! The winner will receive a prize that includes: 14|12 Bandsaw F2 Fusion Tablesaw 1 HP Dust Collector REVO 12|16 6″ Jointer ShearTec II Question 1: From Shawn: I’m working on a Christmas present for my sister.  It’s a hallway table with 2 drawers in cherry. This is the first piece I’ve made with cherry.  Some of the surfaces have a quarter sawn grain orientation and I’m finding them highly prone to tear out. My card scraper seems to be the only tool I’ve got that can tackle it, and even then I still have to pay really close attention to the changing grain direction. I’d like to hear any recommendations you might have about tools and techniques to deal with tear out, and also about other tear out prone woods you’ve worked with. I’ve found quarter sawn maple to be difficult as well. Video: Taming Tough Grain with a Bevel-Up Plane by Bob Van Dyke #264-Nov/Dec 2017 Issue Video: Get Sharp Fast by Bob Van Dyke #254–May/June 2016 Issue Question 2: From Joe: To build a bed for my grandson I ordered 50 bd ft of rough lumber,  Black walnut. The wood was beautiful but this is where my confusion began. I got the job done but I don't know if I went about it the best way. The bed with headboard, frame, 6 drawers underneath, and footboard had over 100 pieces. All the lumber was about 8 inches wide and about 10 feet long. Is it better to mill the long boards and then layout all the parts, or layout the parts oversize and cut them out and send smaller pieces through the planer and jointer? Segment: All-Time Favorite Tool Mike: 6-in. Combo Square Bob: Stanley #4–Type 11 Ben: Lie Nielsen honing guide Video: Modifying an inexpensive honing guide by Bob Van Dyke Question 3:   From Mike: I’ve come to realize my jointer needs tuning, and i recall you guys saying how you set your outfeed table a hair lower than your cutter head. I can’t find the episode that contains this discussion, but i don’t recall there being any reasoning for this. I adjusted mine as y’all suggested but found this was causing the trailing ends of the boards to not touch the blades. After reading my powermatic manual, it says to have the outfeed table level with blade, so what’s up with your hack causing me this grief? Video Workshop: Machine Setup – The Jointer with Matt Wajda Recommendations: Ben - Apple Music's Wes Montgomery Essentials playist Mike - Pickles from Rein's Deli in Vernon, CT Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards.  I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist.  Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.   All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.  How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

To enter to win Bob Van Dyke's sharpening box from issue #254: Leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page Head over to the Connecticut Valley School of Woodworking site and sign up for their email list We’ll pick a winner December 21, 2018. Question 1: From Amy: I've been using a piece of vegetable tanned leather with green waxy honing compound as a strop. I start by rubbing compound onto the shiny side of the leather. However, when I go to strop my carving knives, the pressure from my blade compresses the compound and it flakes off. Is there something wrong with my compound, or am I doing something wrong? Question 2: From Matt: I have some 10-in. wide 8/4 African Mahogany that I have been resawing into thinner boards.  I start by jointing one face then one edge and then resawing, usually down the middle. There is a good amount of tension in the boards, so after resawing they have a decent twist.  Do I need to let the boards re-acclimate before I re-joint and plane them, or can I do that immediately? Also, would I be better off not jointing the face and resawing to a center-line rather than using the bandsaw fence. It seems like a waste of time getting that face flat just so I can use the bandsaw fence.   All Time Favorite Technique Bob: Fixing a mistake and perfectly matching both the face grain and end grain.  How to Fix Flaws and Mistakes by Mark Schofield #228–Sept/Oct 2012 Issue Ben: Using a sawbench to support the ramps when moving machinery off the back of a pickup truck Mike: Using a bird-mouth joint to create dividers Pennsylvania Spice Box by Steve Latta #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue Question 3: From Matt (in Australia): I see many of the worlds best woodworkers only apply glue to one mating surface of a joint not both as advocated by Hoadley. When is it acceptable to only apply glue to one surface of a mating joint? Question 4: From Anthony: Last couple years I’ve been on the hunt for an 8” jointer and just recently I was able to secure a CL purchase on a 12” jointer that I’m pretty excited about. It’s a Bridgewood 12” 5hp that I picked up a few hours away from a now retired door maker. As with most home woodworkers, my jointing experience has been on a six inch jointer. What are the potential areas of concern with a larger jointer? In general, with a jointer, what leads up to an accident? Is it simply being unaware of your hands and proper use? Push pads that actually work by Roland Johnson Recommendations: Ben - David Johnson's Instagram Page Bob - His own Instagram page Mike - Go buy a fresh bottle of glue Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018. Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering  by Craig Thibodeau Question 1: From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail? Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue Question 2: From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying?   In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up. Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All Time Favorite Tool Ben: Sharpening stone box Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop Question 3: From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces? The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018. Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering  by Craig Thibodeau Question 1: From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail? Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue Question 2: From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying?   In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up. Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All Time Favorite Tool Ben: Sharpening stone box Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop Question 3: From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces? The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here. Show notes are available here. To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking. Links mentioned in this episode: An Edge-Jointing Primer - Well-tuned tools and the right technique create joints that last by Gary Rogowski #124–May/June 1997 Issue Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue No Black Line Veneer How to add splines for stronger miters - Quick jig produces clean joints with hidden power - by Doug Stowe #268–May/June 2018 Issue 

Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here. Show notes are available here. To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking. Links mentioned in this episode: An Edge-Jointing Primer - Well-tuned tools and the right technique create joints that last by Gary Rogowski #124–May/June 1997 Issue Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue No Black Line Veneer How to add splines for stronger miters - Quick jig produces clean joints with hidden power - by Doug Stowe #268–May/June 2018 Issue 

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss glue-ups, premium vs. not-so-premium chisels, clogged handplanes, and milling lumber Show-notes: http://bit.ly/2KQ2AF3 Links mentioned in the show: Tool Rant: Is that really a clamp? by Bob Van Dyke -http://bit.ly/2IZFNom How To Cut Dovetails on the Tablesaw by Gregory Paolini #231–Jan/Feb 2013 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J070av How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J0YqbF Tim Rousseau – Simple push stick for safe bandsaw cuts - http://bit.ly/2KU65uj If you have questions you’d like us to answer on the show, send them in to shoptalk@taunton.com. You can also use the voice memo app on your phone and email us a 30 second audio recording, or if you’re old-school you can leave a voicemail by calling 203-304-3456. 

Mike, Matt, and Ben discuss glue-ups, premium vs. not-so-premium chisels, clogged handplanes, and milling lumber Show-notes: http://bit.ly/2KQ2AF3 Links mentioned in the show: Tool Rant: Is that really a clamp? by Bob Van Dyke -http://bit.ly/2IZFNom How To Cut Dovetails on the Tablesaw by Gregory Paolini #231–Jan/Feb 2013 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J070av How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2J0YqbF Tim Rousseau – Simple push stick for safe bandsaw cuts - http://bit.ly/2KU65uj If you have questions you’d like us to answer on the show, send them in to shoptalk@taunton.com. You can also use the voice memo app on your phone and email us a 30 second audio recording, or if you’re old-school you can leave a voicemail by calling 203-304-3456.