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This Episodes Questions: I picked up a cheap elegoo Neptune 4 pro on sale so I would have a fast way to kick out some PLA chotchkes for the kids. It was pretty fast and good, until some screws came loose on the hot end, and I while I was realigning the hotend and re-fastening the screws, something happened that caused the heater to go into runaway heating. Basically what I think happened is I wiggled the heater cartridge wires and they shorted out and "fused" the MOSFET for the heater which is on the main board. What is incredible is that this small electrical component failed "open" meaning anytime the power is on to the machine, it's pushing 100% power into the heater with no way to shut off. Is this normal? Because it seems really stupid! I've seen on some main-boards they advertise replaceable MOSFET modules and didn't really understand why. But, is this really something normal users should have to worry about? It's a super bad fire hazard to have the heater fail-"unsafe". Have you seen this with many other brands? Should I have known this could happen? Did I just miss seeing this lesson during my research on twitter and youtube because I came into the hobby in the last couple of years? It's scary. Tim Hello Guy, JJ, and Jerry ! I'm a recently new listener to the Podcast and I throughly have been enjoying the episodes. I currently have a Bambu Labs P1P printer and have been 3D printing since the pandemic with the Ender-3 line of printers, also I have been woodworking with my father even since I was a little boy. Now that I'm older I was wondering how I could incorporate my two hobbies to improve my woodworking experience. I have a pretty big lab and I have a Grizzly Sliding Table Saw, Grizzly Bandsaw, Miter saws, routers, drill presses, Jointer, Lathe, and a vacuum. Another sub-question I have is about wood glue and what filaments would be better or worse. Thank you all for your help!! Gabriel
This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: As a hobbyist who buys wood occasionally, I have never developed the skill of correctly identifying the grain pattern or even the cut type (plain, rift, quarter) in rough cut lumber at lumber yards. It's all fuzzy and impossible for me to discern. Any tips for a dumb dumb like me? American Bob Hey guys! I started listening to your podcast a couple months ago, and began dabbling in woodworking only a couple months before that. I can't tell you how helpful your podcasts has been to me, as I don't really have anyone to show me the ropes. I'm usually pretty good at figuring things out via YouTube and Google, but a lot of use concepts are so new to me that I'm not sure what to search for. I don't know what I don't know. I have to admit that I have been cutting off sending in a question to you guys primarily because I'm listening to your podcast while I'm in my fledgling shop and I have a hard time putting down what I'm doing to get on my phone if I don't have to. Having said that, I'm sure that I can come up with enough questions to completely fill out half a dozen podcast episodes, so I'm finally answering the call. Thank you in advance for your answers and insights. I chose to serve with this question because it is an issue I run into constantly. To put it simply, I do not as of yet own jointer or a planer, and I can't afford one for the time being. I have been trying to make do with a number of workarounds, to varying degrees of success. For example, cleaning a board or panel with a belt sander, which is exactly as much fun as it sounds. My recently discovered work around for jointing boards is a jig I made for my table saw. It's essentially a fence I guess, with an outfeed and in feed side. The outfeed side is flush with my saw blade, while the infeed side is offset. The width of my saw blade. I can send you a picture if you are curious. My question is, for a person who absolutely cannot afford a jointer and planer right now, are there any other tricks you can think of to accomplish these essential woodworking processes? Thanks again for your help and all the great information you provide. Zach Guys Questions: Hello, this is Zach from Minnesota again. I have a question that has been bugging me for quite some time now. Ever since I learned about water-based polyurethane, it's almost exclusively what I have used to finish my projects. I almost always apply this with my Wagner or HVLP sprayer with a detail nozzle and it has worked great for me. There are a lot of topics in woodworking where people have opposing views. One practice, however, that seems to be universally supported, and strongly so, is sanding between codes of polyurethane. I very, very rarely follow this practice. For whatever reason, on one project I did not do this and it turned out fine, so I haven't really bothered since, and I haven't had any issues, even when I've applied polyurethane over paint. Why is sanding so strongly recommended, and what issues am I risking by skipping this step? Thanks again. Zach Good morning Woodshop Life Podcast Folks! I am about to finish up my largest commissioned work, netting me a nice little profit. This isn't my full time job, so any sort of money I make from woodworking I want to put back into the shop and continue to grow as a woodworker. I have the Dewalt DW735 Planer and a Grizzly 8” Jointer, both with straight knife cutter heads. If I could only do one for now, Which one should I upgrade first to a helical cutter head? I love listening to you all when I am in the shop, and have grown tremendously as a woodworker because of it! Keep up the great work! Nathan Huys Questions: I just built a router table with a lift. Was going to upgrade to a 3+ hp router as I have been told “the large bits need 3 or more hp”. Looking at the routers I can purchase they all come with 15 amp plugs. The 15 amp can only carry 2.4 hp max no matter what the hp of the motor is. Even if the plug / receptacle is 20 amp it still could not carry the watts/hp of 3 hp. Just wondering why I should spend the money to upgrade. Can you enlighten me? Thanks and love the show. John-Michael Do you have any tips for drilling the holes in legs to insert leg levelers? I have practiced a few times and I can't consistently get the holes straight. I have avoided using the leg levelers because of this. Thanks Jeff
This Episodes Questions: Guy's Questions: With mothers day around the corner, I plan on knocking out a couple of small jewelry boxes. Mitered corners and book matched grain for a seamless look. 2 questions leading into this project. The first is more likely for Guy. In the past my boxes have been cut to 45.1 degrees to ensure a closed outside corner. My table saw is a jobsite saw and setting a precise angle is extremely difficult. I recently set up a router table and have seen guy use a 45 degree chamfer bit to cut miters this way. How close to 45 degree do these bits actually get? Is there a brand you recommend for better accuracy? How bad is the tear out? 2nd question. In the past I used a wiping poly to finish the boxes. However VOC's are a concern for these boxes. I'd like to finish the boxes with a base coat of shellac and finish with beeswax top coat. I purchased a block of beeswax but didn't really think about how to dissolve it for quick finish. Seems like mineral spirits are the leading candidate but I'm curious if anyone has used natural oil citrus solvent for the same task (I'd likely by the version from milk paint company). Jose Gentlemen, thank you for all you do to support and educate the woodworking community through this podcast and other platforms. I'm planning out a full kitchen remodel for our home and will be building the cabinets myself. The style of cabinets will be frameless/euro style which means all the plywood will need to be edge banded. The plywood will be pre-finished, but the doors and drawer fronts will be painted. How would you recommend finishing the edge banding to match the door and drawer front color? Would you do hardwood edge banding and paint it? That seems like it would take a lot of taping which leaves room for lots of error. Is there such a thing as custom colored edge banding for cabinets that is either iron-on or peel-and-stick? I don't have an edge banding machine so that probably limits my options. Thanks in advance for your help! Joel Hi guys, Thanks for providing some great knowledge for fellow woodworkers. My question is around drum sanders and the usefulness of them in a hobby shop. When do you use a drum sander and what type of projects are you using a drum sander on? I just purchased a 20” bandsaw and would like to start resawing veneers for projects. In the past I would buy 1/16” thick veneers from a commercial veneer shop which worked well. But I question if a drum sander is actually required/desired for this operation. I've read a bunch about troubles with drum sander's and really question if it speeds up the work. Could I just joint a fresh face, resaw. Then joint another fresh face and so on. Then glue up the panel. And either clean up the panel on the planner or ROS? In my future I probably have a set of kitchen cabinets and various built in cabinets(which I would either buy plywood or use commercial veneer and glue my own). I normally make freestanding furniture as well. This isn't a production shop, and I have all the normal tools for dimensioning lumber, TS, Jointer, and planer. Feel free to summarize my question, just wanted to give you guys enough context. Thanks,Jesse Beechland Furniture Huys Questions: Hi Guys Have known of & liked Guy's YT channel for a number of years and recently came across this podcast which I'm really enjoying as I go through the back catalogue. I must be on similar wavelength to you Guy as I love (& own a lot / most of) the Incra stuff, saw your MFT style outfeed which I'm about to build a copycat of (just awaiting delivery of the aluminium extrusion) and am in the midst of milling the timber to start building your mini workbench, the plans for which I recently bought. I then happened on your YT channel the other day Huy and whilst watching the 6yo shop tour video was interested to see your boom arm. Could you tell me a bit more about it. Is it bought as is, or built up from tubing etc? Keep up the good work. Thanks Andy I love your podcast, particularly that you spend the time talking about woodworking without a lot of jibber-jabber about unrelated stuff. I'm sorry to hear about Brian's accident, and appreciate very much that he was willing to share about it so we could all learn. Could you possibly send me the 10 safety rules from the Purposeful Design shop? Also, here's my question: are there any general rules for how much clamping pressure is advisable when doing a glue-up? Is it just enough to close the joint? Or does glue work better when extra clamping pressure is applied? I realize this is a broad question and the answer may differ depending on the situation, but any guidance you can provide would be much appreciated. Thanks for all you do! Jimmy B, Los Angeles CA. Hello Guys, I recently found your podcast and I love it. Great content and great chemistry between you all. I will be sad when I catch up on all the past episodes because then I will have or wait to listen to new episodes. I am new to woodworking and I currently use a Dewalt 8 1/4 inch job site table saw. For my 50th birthday I am looking to upgrade to a larger table saw. I am economically challenged so my budget is around $1000. I am looking at 2 different saws the first one is the Delta 36-725T2 for $699 and the other one is the Laguna Fusion F1 for $1080. Is the Laguna worth $300 more? Do you have any other suggestions? I would prefer to buy new. Thanks you all are awesome have a great day. Korey
It's Halloween Quiz time, season food favorites and Halloween Luke is dying! The hosts are Ben and Luke and you can find them all over the internet @conderosacreations and @lukeinthegarage. Become a Patreon and support the show: https://www.patreon.com/thejointerypodcast?fan_landing=true Hosted by: Luke Gelman & Ben Conroy Intro/Outro: Tim Greenwood @turgworks Edited by: Ben Conroy Produced by: Luke Gelman & Ben Conroy A ConMan Creative Production thejointery@gmail.com @thejointerypodcast
Lexman Artificial interviews Yoshua Bengio, world-renowned expert in machine learning and AI. They discuss Bengio's contributions to the field, including his work on bombastic algorithms and his studies of glass-blowing and Jointer cytomegalovirus. In the end, Lexman invites Bengio to be a pretender—an AI lifeform that pretend to be human, in order to learn more about humanity.
In Episode 51 the guys discuss the following topics:· Brandon went on a 50-minute car chase· Mike won't bet Brandon anymore· Mike's gonna miss the first Bears game· Mike missed a call of a 3-way sexcapade· Brandon is psychic· A container full of poop· More names are added to the officer down memorial· Brandon talks about a documentary titled “Send Me”· https://saveourallies.org/· Brandon is selling pink stuff in October· Brandon is making Team home plates· Mike and Brandon are both selling their benchtop jointers· Mike got a new Laguna JX|8 Jointer!· South Haven Michigan is awesome· Laguna JX|8 jointer at Taco Tools· Brunt coupon code MWW10 for $10 off· SurfPrep coupon code “BOOKEM”· Brandon is charging Mike an appearance fee for the show· Mike needs a water heater and has to tear down a shop wall· https://www.1stclassiptv.com/· Question from David FranklinOfficer Down Memorial Pagehttps://www.odmp.org/search/year/2021A HBLA Production Producer: Mike Marrazzo Director: Mike Marrazzo Editor: Mike Marrazzo Written by: Mike Marrazzo & Brandon Silveira Created by: Mike Marrazzo Host: Mike Marrazzo Co-Host: Brandon Silveira Music used from: https://FesliyanStudios.comFollow Handcuffs & Sawdust on social media:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/handcuffsan... Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Handcuffsand... YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCy0OFXFWnb4p7BriVF4-n5wSupport Mike on his social media accounts:Website: https://www.marrazzowoodworking.com/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/marrazzowoodworking/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCokB... Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Marrazzowoodworking?ref=seller-platform-mcnav Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/marrazzowoodworkingSupport Brandon on his social media accounts:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/fullhousewo... Etsy: https://www.etsy.com/shop/FullHouseWo...
Is it possible to work as a professional woodworker without owning a jointer? Absolutely! Learn how to accomplish the same task using tools you probably already have. A big jointer is nice...but not an absolute necessity.RecommendationsNO JIGS! -Turn a table saw into a jointer to straighten boards! https://youtu.be/YwUixCEgJck5 Ways to Joint Boards Without A Jointer | Woodworking Tip: https://youtu.be/UFfj8qGVxZ0Support The Show On: Buy Me A Coffee: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/workatwoodworkAffiliate Links:Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Three Book Set: https://amzn.to/3anhzrYTaylor Tools: https://lddy.no/19h9vSKILLSHARE - EXCLUSIVE: 30% OFF ANNUAL SKILLSHARE PREMIUM MEMBERSHIP WITH CODE: Annual30affUnitel Voice VOIP- https://unitelvoice.grsm.io/2nio74g7myc5Working At Woodworking Podcast hopes to encourage and provide information to amateur woodworkers who dream about turning their hobby into a full-time or part-time business, and to help current business owners succeed. Business coaching is available at reasonable rates. Sound effects from: http://www.freesfx.co.ukContact:For more information or to support WAW, visit the website at https://www.workingatwoodworking.comQuestions, comments, and complaints can be sent to roger@workingatwoodworking.com or call 812-325-9823.Support the show
We gave away an 8-inch Wahuda jointer on the live stream How awesome is that! See the video version here https://youtu.be/UciGj-83DQQEmployee Survival Guide®A Podcast only for employees. Mark shares information your employer does not want you knowListen on: Apple Podcasts SpotifySupport the show
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin Sean 1) How often should I be cleaning my planer roller and do you know any plans to build a rolling lunchbox planer stand or cabinet. I have the HD ridgid 12" planer. So I guess a better question is how often should I change blades in jointer and planer and maintenance my cheaper tools I use daily. To rid of snip and a seemingly guy crooked planer bed? Broken_pine 2) Hello everybody. First time listener, long time caller. Wanted to hear of any shop items you use that would be more "eco-friendly". An example that comes to mind is instead of using the disposable glue brushes using a silicone one. Thanks, Twin Lake Woodshop Guy 1) My question is that I have two logs (from the same branch but non-contiguous), and need two nightstands, primarily composed of a 16" w x 14" h x 12" deep mitered box/case. One log is dead straight grain and the other, beginnings of a crotch. Aesthetically, would each of you combine the two logs to make two "truly" matched (well bookmatched) nightstands, or use one log for each nightstand, matching grain WITHIN the individual nightstands, but not BETWEEN the pair? That's confusing even reading it back so please contact me with any questions, For reference the bed these will flank is a California king California king so there is a good deal of distance between them it's not like they'll be on on both sides of a twin. -Tom 2) Hey guys, from time to time I've been asking questions and you've always provided great advice. My question is, I'm tuning up my jointer and I have the tables co-planner within .002” out 18 inches from the cutter head. Is this close enough? Should I invest in a longer straightedge? Currently I'm using a 24” ruler from a good combination square. Looking online for straightedges, the Starrett 36” is $247.50 and it accurate within .0002”. I also found the Veritas 38” aluminum straightedge for $44.90 and is accurate to .003”. How strength of a straightedge do I need? And can I get away with an aluminum straightedge? Thanks so much for your thoughts. -Mike Gitberg Huy 1) I am a newbie in woodworking! and I'm working on my indoor stairs to the second floor. Stairs are completely removed and we plan to have an open riser 3 1/2" thick tread. I have somebody who confirmed the structure and adapted it to city codes for me. So nothing dangerous is happening here. I am trying to get the costs down while I like the walnut looks and because of that I am thinking of ripping and altering grain on 2"x12" nominal lumber from the big box store and making 3" x 11½" x 37½' butcher block of yellow southern pine (construction grade, kilin dried) and veneer it with 1/4" walnut. I am buying a 16' 2x12 kiln dried yellow southern pine and will start ripping it after stocking it for a month in my garage. Should I be worried about wood movement? I mean movement between walnut and SYP. I am not worried about SYP core because I have one of them made two month ago and it's been staying inside with us and cupping/twisting, has not been observed. Will the 1/4 glued walnut veneer is a good idea for this application in term of resisting wear and tear? I am using regular glue for making the core. any advice on glue for making the core and veneer? Will you approach same method to do this project? If not, What will you do? vafa 2) G'day team It's the old guy (older than Guy) from Australia who potters around in the shed in his thongs ( Aussie footwear Guy ) I recently bought a Dewalt 735 thicknesser because I like to use reclaimed wood but I really don't have a clue what I am doing but you need to start somewhere. Anyway I recently used the thicknesser on a couple of large pine blanks that came from some sort of industrial packaging which were approx 5 inches wide and 3 inches tall ( I used imperial for you guys) I ran both blanks through the thicknesser " jointing" one side first by using a planer sled and some shims and then running the other side through squaring up the sides to each other and then gluing both pieces together to make a blank for a bandsaw box, everything seemed good at this stage. I started to cut the blank on the bandsaw only to realise that it wasn't square to the table and that I had actually made a square block that was tilted ( I think it's called a parallelogram, I wanted to use a big word so Huy would feel at home) How can I square this up ? The block is approx 5 by 5 inches and my table saw height is 3 inches. I probably did this all backwards but even though I'm old enough to remember dust being invented I still like to learn. Do I need to buy a jointer ? Thanks for your help (ps, the nurse is cranky with me because I took some other guys slippers and won't take my medication, hope you guys get this while I'm still alive.........still no Sawstop) -Geoff
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin Sean 1)Thank you all great information from both the podcast. Right now I have a woodriver spoke shave, wood river shoulder plane, i have buck brothers #4 four plane and block plane, both from home depot, totaling $50. I have learned to sharpen well and get whispy shaving and a mirror surface on most woods. Though the plane seems to loose it's setting quickly and the blade chips on any thing harder then pine. I have some money and want to buy a new plane. I only have about $350 to spend. Which plane would you recommend? I think Bevel up veritas or wood river and buying a second 50 degree blade. Scott 2) Thanks for the informative podcast. I have a question regarding dado blades. I have a 10 inch delta table saw (36-725T2), and I am wondering what blade to get. Most of the dado blades I see for sale are 8", and some 6". Being that my table saw motor is not overly powerful , would a 6" blade be better to reduce the weight? What are your recommendations on size and maybe some brands you have used and suggest? Thanks. Trevor Guy 1) I have a question about drilling pilot holes for wood screws. There seem to be 2 types of pilot hole/contersink bits. One style has a straight bit and the other style has a tapered bit. I have read conflicting information about the different types. Are the tapered bits only for tapered screws and the straight bits for newer straight shank woodscrews or are the tapered bits preferable for everything? When drilling the pilot holes should I drill a larger hole through the top board to pull the boards closer? If using the tapered bits how is the countersink adjust for longer or shorter screws as the hole depths are different? Should I just forget about the combination drill/countersink bits and use a separate drill and coutersink. Thanks for your advice. Bob 2) I recently started monetizing my woodworking skills as a side hustle, which has been great as it has allowed me to upgrade a lot of my tool arsenal. I just bought a Sawstop professional cabinet saw, and of course, the differences between it and a jobsite saw are night and day. I have managed to cut both of my hands on 2 separate occasions with my DeWalt table saw (without removing digits, fortunately), so if there ever was a person who needed to invest in a Sawstop, I am that man. I think my next buy will be a Festool (most likely) track saw, or perhaps a helical blade planer. Currently my bread-and-butter work tends to be sliding barn doors. I don't claim to be an extremely highly skilled woodworker who does intricate joinery at this point; I simply realized that I could capitalize on my accrued skills and make smaller-scale projects for extra "shop money". The one tool I have not invested in yet is a Jointer. I highly desire to have one but I have been able to get by for this long without it, so I am in no particular hurry to get one. My question is this: How beneficial does having a jointer tend to be in your experience, and is it something you use all the time? Is it something you would consider a must have for any serious woodworker? I apologize for this being long-winded. Thanks in advance. Nate Huy 1)Good Evening Gentlemen....and I use that term loosely I have been blessed to be a Dad for a little son who is now 3.5 years old. I have had him out in the workshop trying out some of the tools....spokeshaves, hand planes, drill press, clamps and vises, and some other hand tools that I deem safe under direct supervision. It is so much fun to see the wheels turn as he experiments with them. I have made a decision to expose and introduce him to these experiences early on in the hope of planting the seed for curiosity and establishing a foundation of fundamental skills and understanding of how things are created. I do worry though as he becomes comfortable with different tools, he will eventually want to try and experiment on his own. I am always reinforcing that he is not allowed to do things without me, but at some point, I do worry that he might try and do things while I am gone. At this time, I flip all of the breakers for the power tool circuits and I am comfortable with this solution now, however, as he gets older and might understand why I am opening and closing that grey panel, I am looking for some more control of when things run. Are you guys aware of any solutions with new smart breakers ect that would allow more direct control over how and when circuits can have power? I have looked online at square D's website and I am not finding a simple solution for this in terms of a retro fit solution on a standard electric panel. It seems like a few smart breakers that are password protected would be a perfect solution. Some of the tools have those yellow plastic inserts in the switch, but I was looking for something a little more elegant to control the power at the circuit level. Benjamin and I often listen to the show after the lights go out for bed time, so if you can keep the jokes reasonably clean that will save me some explaining later for his mother. Love the show and keep up the great work. Brad 2) Thanks for your podcast, I enjoy it tremendously and it is obvious that the three of you are really good friends! I recently saw a short Y.T. video from WWGOA/George Vondruska about a track saw guide rail set that can be adapted to almost any regular circular saw, and provides accurate straight line cutting of sheet goods and dimensional lumber on a standard track rail. (Please see the video on YT from WWGOA: "Benefits of a Track Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America ") It would appear that you can buy these track saw rails and adapter plate, and if the instructions are followed correctly, bolt your regular circular saw to a base that indexes on their track accurately and with repeatability for making straight cuts. The purpose of this is to reduce the expense of buying a single purpose saw, when you already generally have one that can be used for this purpose. The adapter plate is bolted to your regular circular saw base with 4 bolts. (Which are supplied by True Trac), using a guide to index for square positioning of the saw onto the adapter plate. The guide rail track is then trimmed perfectly using the saw, and performance at that point is identical to any other track saw. There are several video clips on YT about this track, and it's available on Amazon as well as direct from the manufacturer. It gets excellent reviews if you place any faith in them. I believe all 3 if you esteemed gentlemen already have either the Festool or Makita track saws & guide rails, so you are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with this type of device. Your thoughts, please? Thanks again for your great service to the woodworking community. John Malcolm
Parkview's James Jointer joins Justin and Wess in The Zone to talk about signing with the Arkansas Razorbacks.
Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss story sticks, cooling glue to get more open time, spring joints and admits to milling MDF on his machines! Sponsored by Grizzly Industrial 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Are woodworking classes tiring? 10:59 - When do you make a story stick? 19:36 - Can you get more open time by cooling your glue? 31:33 - Segments 46:06 - 5 spring joints at once? 58:26 - How deep of a cut do you take on a jointer? 1:04:47 - Bob mills MDF on his machines!!!!!!! Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Bob Van Dyke joins Mike and Ben to discuss story sticks, cooling glue to get more open time, spring joints and admits to milling MDF on his machines! Sponsored by Grizzly Industrial 0:00 - Intro 1:30 - Are woodworking classes tiring? 10:59 - When do you make a story stick? 19:36 - Can you get more open time by cooling your glue? 31:33 - Segments 46:06 - 5 spring joints at once? 58:26 - How deep of a cut do you take on a jointer? 1:04:47 - Bob mills MDF on his machines!!!!!!! Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Why the jointer can't be used to surface all sides of a board.
Why the jointer can't be used to surface all sides of a board.
Why the jointer can't be used to surface all sides of a board.
Why the jointer can't be used to surface all sides of a board.
In this episode, there's a little mustache talk to get it going and Mark talks about his raised panel door video he just released. Bruce discusses the I-beam concept in his most recent video, the multi-function jointing jig. And Drew discusses the need for deer insurance. Plus, much more! Become a patron of the show to receive awesome rewards! http://patreon.com/webuiltathing OUR TOP PATREON SUPPORTERS: -YouCanMakeThisToo YT: http://bit.ly/38sqq7v-JK Canvas YT: http://bit.ly/3tbmWy6-Jennie and Davis YT: http://bit.ly/3evuXdg-Tom's Woodwork-Chiseled Woodworking YT: https://bit.ly/2PJn8X2-Tim Morrill-Brent Jarvis IG: https://bit.ly/2OJL7EV -Dad It Yourself DIY YT: http://bit.ly/3vcuqmv-Broken Lead Woodworks IG: https://bit.ly/38vQij8-Chris Powell YT: http://bit.ly/3qu1kLS-Christopher Simonton-Maddux Woodworks YT: http://bit.ly/3chHe2p-Ray Jolliff -Firewood Designs YT: http://bit.ly/3qCwP6t -Ryder Clark -James Attaway -Bumblechutes -Dan Rhodes NEW: -Andy Lukach -Gary Halder Support our sponsors: MagSwitch: https://mag-tools.com -use code "WBAT" for 10% off We Built A Thing T-shirts! We have two designs to choose from! (You can get one of these as a reward at certain levels of support) https://amzn.to/2GP04jf https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 Bruce's most recent video: https://youtu.be/-NHVY2Topfw Drew's most recent video: https://youtu.be/dXqhHzytL1g Mark's most recent video: https://youtu.be/adTeJh5lO1I We are all makers, full-time dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow and share information with others. Throughout this podcast, we talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between. CONNECT WITH US: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathingWE BUILT A THING EMAIL: webuiltathing@gmail.com FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: www.instagram.com/gunflint_designs/ Music by: Jay Fisher (Thanks, Jay!)
Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Brad Caldwell and Bill Harshaw talk to Parkview RB James Jointer, Maumelle OL Andrew Chamblee and Morrilton AD Trent Tipton!
Sometimes the family gets sick with a novel virus, that sounds fun. This last week my family got sick with Covid-19. So I decided to talk a little bit about it. I also had some extra time on my hands so I went ahead and tore apart my jointer. I finally have it dialed in properly, and I learned a lot along the way. I talk a little about my experience with that, and some of the reasons that lead to me working on it. Finally, my failure of the week has to do with my chickens again. So if this episode sounds interesting to you click play below.
John Jointer, film director & producer of the docuseries "Indie Soul Journeys" is our special guest in this week's podcast episode #110. John shares a a detailed account of how his docuseries came to light, what inspired his vision, and how he has overcome a variety of challenges to ensure completion of the series. The film series features some of soul music's most successful and talented independent artists including two of our former podcast guests, Sy Smith whose featured episode will be screened in Chicago on Tues. January 28, 2020 at City Winery, and Eric Roberson whose episode was previously screened in 2018 in Chicago. Listeners will gain meaningful insight on how to respect the process of creating a project despite the difficulties and potential mistakes. The value of allowing missteps to become teachable moments is highlighted in our discussion and will inspire our audience to push towards creative goals and professional dreams. To learn more about the Indie Soul Journeys docuseries visit/follow: IG: @indie_soul_journeys FB: www.facebook.com/indiesouljourneys Tickets for Indie Soul Journeys Screening feat. Sy Smith at City Winery Chicago: https://citywinery.com/chicago/sy-smith-1-28-20.html
The jointer is as sensitive a piece of cast iron as exists in the shop. Learn how to tune and use yours to get the results you are after.
The jointer is as sensitive a piece of cast iron as exists in the shop. Learn how to tune and use yours to get the results you are after.
The jointer is as sensitive a piece of cast iron as exists in the shop. Learn how to tune and use yours to get the results you are after.
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Questions Guys 1) I would like to have a better understanding of what is safe and what isn’t when cross cutting on the table saw. I have seen lots of videos and read lots of articles that mention how dangerous cross cutting on the table saw can be when the aspect ratio of the work is such that the distance between the blade and the fence exceeds the length of the edge that is against the fence. This makes perfect sense to me as you want to avoid the possibility of the work twisting between the blade and fence and kicking back. However, there are countless videos of supposedly knowledgeable woodworkers breaking down sheet goods and violating this aspect ratio rule. Do these rules not really apply when breaking down sheet goods for some reason? 2) Hello, I just picked up a Incra Ls positioner fence at a yard sale for $20, (they didn't know what it was). My question is when do you choose to use the Incra verses using your dovetail jig? I don't currently have a dovetail jig, are there some situations where a dovetail jig would be better? Any general discussion on the Incra would be great. Thanks, keep up the good work, the podcast has been excellent! - Travis Seans 1) This is a router operation question. I was recently making a new jig for a project that required that I cut a long slot all the way through a piece that would allow a bolt to slide along that piece. (The piece is 16 by 2 and is about 5/4 thick. I was cutting a 1/4 slot that ran in the middle of the piece for about 15 inches. It would allow bolts to pass through the piece and then it could slide along the bolts so that it's position can be adjusted. Hope that makes sense)I was using a 1/4 inch straight cutting bit in a router and making the cut in multiple passes. I had the cutting speed set relatively high (somewhere around 20,000 - 24,000 RPM) and was going about an 1/8 deep per pass. I was using a cheap bit so I was running in shallower passes than I would have thought necessary knowing that the performance of the bit is probably going to be lacking. Despite my best efforts the bit snapped off...Luckily it stayed in the groove I was cutting and did not become a projectile and there was no damage to the tool or the piece.The situation raised a few questions for me: 1. How deep would you plunge that size a bit and expect it to cut without any safety or performance concerns? (my piece was laminated baltic birch ply if the material makes a difference. Bit was a 1/4 inch, 1/4 shank straight cutting bit.)2. Is there something I should be doing in this type of situation to prevent this outcome? I had inserted the bit fully into the collet, I had set it to what I thought was an appropriate speed for it's size and I went shallow with my cuts not to stress it too much. Did I do the right things there? Other than getting a better bit, what would you do differently? 2) Hi Guys,My question is about Joiner fences. I picked up an old 6" Delta Shop Master a few years that was in great condition, except that the fence on the outfeed side is welded to the table. I've never had the need to change the fence's angle (it's welded and calibrated to 90°) but I could see adjusting it's depth to reduce wear on my straight blades.Do you guys find your self moving the fence often, or at all and if so, why?Thanks for sharing your expertise and furthering our craft! Justin Huys 1) Ahoy fellas. Absolutely love the podcast, been listening for a long time... BUT first time question for you. Router Slab jigs. I'm getting ready to do an epoxy table and have seen plenty of "how to" videos on building your own on the Tube of You. But none of them explain how to set them up. What exactly needs to be parallel? Do I need a perfectly flat surface to set my piece on or no? I'm guessing as long as I shim my workpiece, I'll be fine. But then do I also have to make sure the piece is roughly on the same plane as the rails? Overall my main worry is getting finished and I have one side of my table thinner than the other. What am I missing? Appreciate it! Keep up the GREAT work. Paul 2) Gonna keep this one simple. What is your favorite style of furniture to you enjoy building? Second part, what is your favorite period of furniture if it differs from what you enjoy building? Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent JarvisClean Cut Woodworking Social Media Mentions Sean: @christopherscottfurniture Huy: @danielfurnituremaker Guy: @Karlholm.design
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guys Questions: 1) Would also like to get either an Incra Miter Sled or Miter Gauge. I see they have a sled/gauge combo or a sled with an integral miter gauge. Can you discuss the pros and cons of each option? - David 2) For Router table use is there really a difference when using a pattern bit vs a flush-trim bit when you want to flush an edge up with a template? Does riding the bearing on top vs on the bottom cause any safety concern? Does one leave a better/worse edge or does it even matter? Thanks, Ryan Seans Questions: 1) Hey guys, love the podcast. Especially listening to guy, because I feel like I'm listening to myself from the future. In response to your recent call for more questions, I have one about tool sharpening. Specifically, what kind of honing jig to buy. I see there are a lot of them out there, but do you have any recommendations on a specific one to get. I'm getting into more hand tool work, and I want to be able to maintain my own chisels, as well as restore some old hand planes that I have. Any advice you may have is much appreciated. Thanks again for being willing to share your knowledge and experience. -Tavis 2) You've mentioned some of the books you've relied on, and I appreciate that, since I'm a green-as-grass beginner, and benefit from any source of information I can get. I'd also like to hear you talk about what mentors or teachers you had who helped shape your skills. Have any of you taken formal classes or gone to woodworking schools? I know that the best way to develop skills is by building furniture and learning from mistakes, but I also hope to participate in a class sometime, if only to find an active woodworking community. - Martin Huys Questions: 1) I've recently bought a good planer/jointer combo machine. It uses 3 planer knives in the cutter block. I won't be using it enough to consider an upgrade to some sort of helical cutterhead. So I've been thinking about a practical way to sharpen the knives. I've come to a jig, some sort of wooden block with an insert for one knife. The top surface of the block is tilted in such a way that my water stones have support for the correct angle when I use them to sharpen the edge.The jig works, but I wonder if there is a more practical (faster) way to sharpen. I see that Tormek sells a sharpening system that does this, but since it costs more than the helical cutter block, I find that too expensive.My question: do you know of an affordable sharpening system for planer knives (mine are 10" long)? - Bart 2) Looking at finishing the top I was going to use epiphanies spar varnish but was wary of using this finish because of UV resistance. Would this inhibit the natural darkening of Cherry? My other option was General finishes ARM R seal or Waterlox. I don’t have way to spray so conversion varnish is out of the question. My other thought was to dye the slab with Lye and use the Epifanes. Keep up the good work. ThanksJesseBeechland Furniture Social Picks Guy: @kingposttimberworks Sean: @hawthorne_fine_boxes Huy: @affinecreations
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guys Questions: 1) Hi guys love the show. I have a question about finishes. My generation (millennial) is into natural products. So I would like to have most and if not all my products that I have lined up ready to be finished to be natural. I've thought about shellac but for the projects that will be around alcohol, shellac is basically out of the picture. But I was wondering if I could put wax over it and that would help with the sealing or if I have to try something else? If I have to try something else what would you suggest that's a natural sealer? Some of my projects include a tabletop and beer caddy. Have you ever heard of the safe coat as a sealer? -Paige 2) Absolutely love the podcast guys, keeps my long drives to and from work educational and also tolerable. I know finishing has been covered a lot, but I can’t recall if the technique was ever covered. And also technique specific to the type of finish. I would love to spray everything, but as my shop is also my garage that isn’t always an option. What have you found easiest for applying different finishes? Natural bristle brushes, synthetic/polyester bristle brushes, foam brushes, plain old wiping on with an old t-shirt, spit shine, etc....I’ve also noticed I’m finding myself putting 2-3 coats on and then sanding back a coat instead of doing the light sanding with every single coat. Seems to work, but am I just wasting finish due to impatience? And Guy always talks about his famous BLO, poly, naphtha wipe-on varnish. I’d love to try that, how is it mixed and what is the amount of each product in the final mixture? Finishing never ends and I’d love to hear your thoughts.Joey from Winter Wolf Woodworking Seans Questions: 1) I'm in the market for my first Jointer. As usual, not a lot of money to spend. I am looking for a used Jointer and would like to know what I should be looking for, what I should avoid, and how to prioritize this list. The price range is up to $400. My project focus is furniture and jewelry box making. I have a small shop, under 200 sqft. Love your podcast and really appreciate all the information and tips you guys share. Thomas 2) I know this may be a bit of a loaded question as there are so many variables to consider but with the audience that is to be considered. I know what my particular practices are and they haven’t failed me yet. I believe it may be a good one for some of the “newer” woodworkers out there would really benefit from hearing it from some highly experienced makers as yourselves. Hi fellows... I would normally say guys but well... we all know theirs only one Guy here. I wanted to know about glueing up a panel from several boards. When gluing up a panel at what point would you consider using something such as a dowel or a domino to keep the boards aligned? Is there a certain thickness, length, or even width that you’d feel that there would be a need for adding this type of structural support to the glue-up. I know that they help out a ton with alignment but I’d like to know what your thoughts are on this subject. Thank you for your time and please keep up the absolutely wonderful work y’all are doing on the podcast and your shops! The information y’all share is always spot on! Thanks,Brent Jarvis Huys Questions: 1) I’m in the process of revamping and improving my shop, and the next step is dust collection. I have a 1.5 hp Shop Fox dust collector moving 1280 cfm of air. My problem is always with the friction loss in the flexible hoses. I plan to install 6” pvc on the wall and snub shorter flexible sections to some of the bigger tools. My question is regarding the split offs. Are the stop gates enough to single out air flow to certain machines? And what is the best way to reduce this down to a hose for handheld power tools? 2) I would like to purchase a new dado stack. I have an old Craftsman set that is steel - not carbide tipped. What do you guys use? Can you recommend a brand that works for you? Social Picks Guys: @bearkatwood Seans: @duncangowdy Huys: @louis_fry_furniture
If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3: From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike - Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3: From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike - Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Today's Topic: Wood For our segment called "New Maker, Who Dis!?" We introduced Sara Pastrana, aka Flourishing Fibers. Here is the link to her Instagram: Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/flourishingfibers/ --------------- All three of us are on Instagram and Youtube as: Blake: "The Weber Woodshop" https://www.youtube.com/c/BlakeWeber https://www.instagram.com/weberwoodshop Nick: "Key Woodworks" https://www.youtube.com/c/KeyWoodworks https://www.instagram.com/keywoodworks Jason: "Bourbon Moth Woodworking" https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCQ_bmgSrYsQS0LboA_tZpEw/featured https://www.instagram.com/bourbonmoth Thanks for listening everyone! Please give us feedback or ask questions on our podcast instagram account: @craftwillneverdie See ya later! --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/craftwillneverdie/message
Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy's Questions: 1) Hey guys, I hope all is well. When I was building my Roubo workbench I ran into a rust problem. I purchased kiln died lumber from a trusted source. I drilled a hole in some 4" thick walnut for my tail vise end cap. I inserted my bench crafted screw to check the fit and left it for a few days. When I removed the screw it had rusted. Any thoughts on why this happened? Should I paint the section of the screw that will remain in the endcap? JD Messick 2) What do you guys think are the essential measuring tools that any woodworker should start out with; ie combination squares, rulers, etc. and any brand recommendations you might have. Any input is appreciated. -Travis Sean's Questions: 1) Gents, I'm torn at the moment as I am in the process outfitting my new 400sf stand-alone shop. Until recently, I've planned to install a 2 stage dust collection system with super dust deputy, externally venting fan and hard ducting with blast gates to each tool. I recently snagged up a used Festool domino ($675!) and ETC 125. I'm becoming a convert and seriously considering scrapping the dust collector plan and getting an Extractor to switch around as needed for each tool. What are your thoughts on going with 1 method over the other? I can't afford both at the moment. Which extractor would you recommend? Is it feasible to hook a single extractor to all my other non-Festool equipment? I'm assuming that a little adapter would be needed for each. Other tools in the shop include a table saw, bandsaw, disc, and spindle sanders, planer, jointer, etc. Cheers! Clayton 2) I am planning to build a bookshelf for my son that will be around 5.5 feet tall, 3 feet wide and around 15 inches deep. I am planning to use plywood with a solid wood face frame and have two sturdiness questions. First, what thickness should I use for the plywood? I've been planning on 3/4 but am not sure if that is overkill/too heavy or if it's what I should be using. Second, what are some suggestions for standing stability? It will be on carpet and I'm wondering if there are ways to stabilize it without attaching it to the wall. My son is one and grabs, pulls and climbs on everything so I want to make sure there is no way he can get it off balanced enough for it to come down. Thanks in advance for any suggestions and advice you have to offer! Regards,Alan Dills Huy's Questions: 1) Hey guys, loving the podcast and listening to the back catalog. Topic for Huy, can you elaborate on the benefits, ease of use, and justification with your scope of work and the cost of the pantorouter? Do you think this is a tool where you will find a way to use it on nearly every project? That thing looks awesome! Thanks! Nutone woodworker 2) What’s up guys, I’m hoping by the end of the summer to have a much bigger shop space. First purchase I would like to make is a Jointer. Looking at the Grizzly 8” w/ a helical head. Any opinions on that specific one would be great, also open to suggestions on others. But my main question is, does a jointer replace a planer? Besides a planer being self-feeding, what are the actual differences? Thanks, guys look forward to the show every other week Tom Our Instagram Picks: Sean: @justin_dipalmaGuy: @garagewoodworksHuy: @ericreason
In this episode, we discuss some of the new tools we all got, Bruce finally started on the workbench build, adapting your jigs to a new table saw and more! NOTES: We Built A Thing Tshirts! https://amzn.to/2GP04jf https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 Bruce's spalted serving tray video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9PepJqp6hfA&t=324s Drew's battery dispenser video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-9AkzxyqVHA Mark's spline jig video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CveV50N3M8Y&t=145s We are all part-time makers, dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow. Throughout this podcast, we plan to talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between! Follow Stephanie @UncommonOutpost Follow Jennie and Davis @JennieandDavis Unnecessary walnut video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CRmncswNhwQ&t=5s Follow Jay Bates @jaybates86 SUPPORT THE SHOW: www.patreon.com/webuiltathing CONNECT WITH US: YOUTUBE: FISHER'S SHOP: www.youtube.com/channel/UCKo6LouIp-TQ1PqxbWNNyAA BRUCE A. ULRICH: www.youtube.com/channel/bruceaulrich GUNFLINT DESIGNS: www.youtube.com/channel/UCgwaPlarb9k0PS2BQphCLNQ INSTAGRAM: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathing/ FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: www.instagram.com/gunflint_designs/ Music by: Jay Fisher
Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence. Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts? After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence. Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts? After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.
In episode #78 we catch up as we have been traveling for a while. Will and James are making dining tables and james covered his floor in epoxy. Should you put a camber on your iron, and how sharp is sharp enough. Then we look at the Creators Photo Challenge and see who won this week.Help us grow on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/CreatorsCollectiveHuge thank you to All of our Patreons! Especially Darren MattesWe will, FINALLY, have some shirts soon!What’s new/ what are we working on?Zack:Will: Dining Table, back from vacation, coaster finish test, planter platters, new chainsaw (MS650 Magnum)James: Dining room table Epoxy, Picture frame, Shirts and magnetsQ&A:Yonatan24: Do you prefer a buffing wheel or leather with buffing compound for sharpening chisels.planes - and why? Do any round over the cutting egde more?Carbonite Gamorrean; Discuss blade/iron RadiusBlock, Scrub, Fore, Jack, Smoother, Jointer, etc any I forgot...(Don't know what a "bench" plane is)Aaannnd; what about chisels (NON carving) Like bench, butt, mortise, DT, paring, timber slick, etc., etc.Wood.Work.LIFE.: How sharp is sharp enough? How do you test? Paper test? Shave? No visible edge?Creators Photo ChallengeWill:Whiskeredwoodsmith: https://www.instagram.com/p/BiR-xrCgD_5/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeBirchtreefarms - https://www.instagram.com/p/Biisft4Au5n/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeJames:birchtreefarms: https://www.instagram.com/p/Biisft4Au5n/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeHandcrafted_by_auns: https://www.instagram.com/p/BiVJD-uAsAL/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeZack:Mcallisterhome: https://www.instagram.com/p/BicqI6XgP07/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeJustinlimoges: https://www.instagram.com/p/BiYKllUA5vQ/?tagged=creatorsphotochallengeJoke of the weekWhat do Andrew jackson and my picture frame have in common?What’s new/what are we watching/reading?Will: Lignum Pixel Lounger - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQRF26IXXWQJames: Make Brooklyn: Making A Leather Clutch Bag https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=giUjzZocjIE&index=19&list=LLbMtJOly6TpO5MQQnNwkCHgZack: jjr20012001 - Instagram https://www.instagram.com/jjr20012001/Favorite tool/product this week?Zack: jet 6x48 belt sander https://amzn.to/2rz8F0lWill: Cranford Design branding iron https://www.facebook.com/pg/cranforddesignworks/about/?ref=page_internalJames: Thumb Saver https://www.woodbywright.com/shop/HostsJames Wright: Wood By Wright https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbMtJOly6TpO5MQQnNwkCHgZack Herberholz: ZH Fabrication https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDdZMJDDpyvI9WJyY7IZP7wWilliam Walker: Wm. Walker Co. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCievvwx_-UU-rP28103rUCwSHOW NOTESIntro and outro recorded and produced by Jason Wright http://jason.theyouthman.com/
In episode #72 we talk about Saws for cutting metal, our Big dream projects for the future, what is a bird Cage Awl. is it called a joiner or a jointer, and much moreHelp us grow on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/craftedpodcastTop Patreons of the week Make Build Modify, Master of None, and Deby Brooke!!What’s new/ what are we working on?Zack: metal sigh logoWill: Zero Clearance inserts. Tuning up my tablesaw. Jointer Video. Lathe,ordered a brand from Cranford Designs. Live Edge BenchJames: Live hangout with my wife, Glue test, Low angle PlaneQ&A: Derekauns: ’ve been using a chop saw with a diamond blade for cutting metal stock since I started working with it. I’m curious about metal bandsaws and how much of an advantage they give you.Zacks Saws https://amzn.to/2GAF2oHhttps://amzn.to/2urMPR6 Egbertjoe: If you could pick any long term, large scale project to build( ie sv seeker) what it would be? Assume you’d video the project but money and subscriptions and shop space aren’t an issue Carbonite Gamorrean: Birdcage awl = 3 or 4 sides (on the tip) ??? Support; Why that number ??? Pros & cons of said # and others. Joke of the weekJoel Falgerholt: what tree grows near the ocean? Beach trees.Creators Photo ChallengeWhat’s new/what are we watching/reading?Will: Paul Jackman segmented rings w/ miter set: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hH2uBBdyw8IJames: The Every Maker: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCLZ_76jCD2KrLbRTucTlDbAZack: Favorite tool/product this week?Zack: Will: Bosch Colt Router: https://amzn.to/2GDb03UJames: Joiner Plane! HostsJames Wright: Wood By Wright https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbMtJOly6TpO5MQQnNwkCHgZack Herberholz: ZH Fabrication https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDdZMJDDpyvI9WJyY7IZP7wWilliam Walker: Wm. Walker Co. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCievvwx_-UU-rP28103rUCwSHOW NOTES Intro and outro recorded and produced by Jason Wright http://jason.theyouthman.com/
In episode #63 we talk about Sharpening methods, water vs window cleaner on diamonds, bending metal back into place, Doing a meet up and more.Help us grow on Patreon https://www.patreon.com/craftedpodcastTop Ptreons of the week Make Build Modify, Master of None, and Deby Brooke!!What’s new/ what are we working on?Zack: Roses, forged lanyards, SculptureWill: maple burl slab,grizzly challenge,live edge vanityJames: Traveling to fredricksburg, New dining room table, new Saw viseQ&A:Sean Foushe: I am curious as to your thoughts about O1, A2, or PM-V11 for a hybrid shop.Yonatan2: Question: Windex is better than water for diamond sharpening plates because it evaporates faster than water so plates don't rust, right? Do you know of any alternatives for Windex?Yonatan2; Question: How would you bend back a bent jigsaw shoe/base after dropping it on the ground? I wish I didn't have to ask this! Joke of the weekJoel FägerholtWhat would be the best phone number a woodworker could have? tree tree tree, pine pine pine pineJeff Gruf: What did the beaver say to the tree? A: It's been nice gnawing you!What’s new/what are we watching/reading?Will: Planet Earth 2James: The Hand tool school https://www.handtoolschool.net/Zack: Walden - Henry David Thoreau - http://amzn.to/2FcX0cyFavorite tool/product this week?Zack: 3M Full Face Respirator - http://amzn.to/2Bs43flWill: Grizzly jointer http://www.grizzly.com/products/8-Jointer-with-Spiral-Cutterhead/G0656XJames: Minivan!Must watch! - Mini Van Highway - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2SAFC4_KbW0HostsJames Wright: Wood By Wright https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCbMtJOly6TpO5MQQnNwkCHgZack Herberholz: ZH Fabrication https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCDdZMJDDpyvI9WJyY7IZP7wWilliam Walker: Wm. Walker Co. https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCievvwx_-UU-rP28103rUCwSHOW NOTES Intro and outtro recorded and produced by Jason Wright http://jason.theyouthman.com/
The night before this episode I got an email from Jordan saying he'd had an accident while using his jointer. So the original topic for the episode was put on hold and instead we walked through his experience of losing part of his finger, and used it as a learning exercise.
Today's "Try it Tuesday" is the Veritas Jointer Fence. A great accessory for the hand plane user to help get nice square edges on your stock. Usable with almost all of the bench planes, it attaches to the body via two, strong rare earth magnets. Once attached to a plane, making square edges is a breeze and easily repeatable. Saving you time and of course aggravation when squaring up a stock's edge. I've used mine for years now and have never had a problem with it. The model featured in today's show is the regular model, but there is a version for low-angle planes too. If you're interested in ordering one for your shop, visit Highland Woodworking or Lee Valley. Please remember, every purchase you make helps to support the show! Tell them Matt's Basement Workshop sent you.
I can't remember the last time I did any kind of shop tour in my current basement workshop, so after much prodding by a few of you (especially you John!!!) I decided it was time to invite all of you down for a look around. Really there's not a lot to look at that you haven't already seen, but I figured while you're all here I might as well explain a little bit about where and what I have in the shop. Coincidentally timed with this tour (completely unplanned I swear!) is the introduction of a new piece of equipment in my shop. Thanks to the folks at Highland Woodworking and their sponsorship of the show we have a brand new Steel City 8" Jointer. So without further delay, let's get this tour moving along!
We wrap up our discussion of the bench planes today with a discussion about Smoothing Planes. Next to the Jack Planes, the smoothers are probably one of the more common planes in the shop. In the Stanley Numbering System, the smoothers are the lowest numbers, 1-4. But you can easily recognize them by their smaller size, as they're usually no longer than 9-1/2 inches in length and 2 inches wide for a model like the No.4. This is also true for the bevel-up versions of smoothers. While I prefer to use my smoothing planes primarily for final prepping of my stock for finishing, they can easily be used much like you would a Jack or Jointer plane on small stock. It's only when it comes to working large stock that they're not ideal for flattening or roughing the pieces. To learn more about the world of Stanley Hand Planes visit Patrick Leach's website "Patrick's Blood and Gore" at www.supertool.com.
Moving along with our discussion of bench planes it's time to take a look at the jointer planes. The jointers are our middle of the road tools. These are the tools we reach for once we've taken our stock from it's rough cut faces and edges, leveled out the big hills and valleys and are ready to take the material to it's final finished dimensions. The jointers are big planes that have the weight to push through knots and tricky grain with little to no effort. But they can wear you out quickly if you're not careful. Typically I use my own to prep stock for final smoothing with a smaller smoothing plane. But you can easily set one up to act very much like a smoother if you really desired the workout. To find out more about which planes are which and what kind of job they do best, visit Patrick's Blood & Gore at www.supertool.com.
Learn how to install a segmented cutterhead in a jointer for increased performance!
Learn how to install a segmented cutterhead in a jointer for increased performance!
Learn how to install a segmented cutterhead in a jointer for increased performance!
Learn how to install a segmented cutterhead in a jointer for increased performance!
On this episode of Shop Time I get to talk with Hendrik Varju about his Honing and Setting Jointer and Planer Knives DVD. Comment on this post for a chance to WIN a copy. We also picked Gene H as the WINNER of the Mortise and Tenon Joinery DVD You can always visit Hendriks’s site at passionforwood.com. If you have questions for Hendrik or myself, feel free to comment, Skype, or use the contact form and we will try to answer them on the next episode. All the Contact information is also at the end of the video. You can visit Hendriks’s site at passionforwood.com. Don't forget to Comment on the site for a chance to WIN your copy of Honing and Setting Jointer and Planer Knives DVD
Set jointer knives with an easy to make magnetic jig. Plans for sale: http://www.garagewoodworks.com/GW_Store.php Buy GarageWoodworks Stuff: http://www.cafepress.com/garagewoodworks Newsletter http://www.garagewoodworks.com/registration.php On Twitter: https://twitter.com/GarageWoodworks On Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/GarageWoodworks
This week it's all power tools, all the time. Plus, our exclusive interview with Michael Fortune, a Fine Woodworking-inspired TV drama, and Matt's BIG jointer news!
This week it's all power tools, all the time. Plus, our exclusive interview with Michael Fortune, a Fine Woodworking-inspired TV drama, and Matt's BIG jointer news!
Are helical cutterheads worth the investment on your jointer? Find out this week on Shop Talk Live. Plus, we reveal an exceptional value for brass hinges, introduce Matt's new theme music, and answer a whole host of your woodworking questions.
Are helical cutterheads worth the investment on your jointer? Find out this week on Shop Talk Live. Plus, we reveal an exceptional value for brass hinges, introduce Matt's new theme music, and answer a whole host of your woodworking questions.
How to flatten boards that are wider than your jointer, using hand tools and the jointer trick.
How to flatten boards that are wider than your jointer, using hand tools and the jointer trick.
How to flatten boards that are wider than your jointer, using hand tools and the jointer trick.
How to flatten boards that are wider than your jointer, using hand tools and the jointer trick.
In this video I build a jig for sharpening planer and jointer knives.
I can't remember the last time I did any kind of shop tour in my current basement workshop, so after much prodding by a few of you (especially you John!!!) I decided it was time to invite all of you down for a look around.Really there's not a lot to look at that you haven't already seen, but I figured while you're all here I might as well explain a little bit about where and what I have in the shop. Coincidentally timed with this tour (completely unplanned I swear!) is the introduction of a new piece of equipment in my shop.Thanks to the folks at Highland Woodworking and their sponsorship of the show we have a brand new Steel City 8" Jointer.So without further delay, let's get this tour moving along!!!
We wrap up our discussion of the bench planes today with a discussion about Smoothing Planes. Next to the Jack Planes, the smoothers are probably one of the more common planes in the shop. In the Stanley Numbering System, the smoothers are the lowest numbers, 1-4. But you can easily recognize them by their smaller size, as they're usually no longer than 9-1/2 inches in length and 2 inches wide for a model like the No.4. This is also true for the bevel-up versions of smoothers. While I prefer to use my smoothing planes primarily for final prepping of my stock for finishing, they can easily be used much like you would a Jack or Jointer plane on small stock. It's only when it comes to working large stock that they're not ideal for flattening or roughing the pieces. To learn more about the world of Stanley Hand Planes visit Patrick Leach's website "Patrick's Blood and Gore" at www.supertool.com. [dewplayer:http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-437SmoothingPlanes919.mp3]Click to PlayDownload Video FileDownload Audio FileDon't forget to enter for free Schwag and please support our sponsors by visiting their links here on the website.
Today's "Try it Tuesday" is the Veritas Jointer Fence. A great accessory for the hand plane user to help get nice square edges on your stock. Usable with almost all of the bench planes, it attaches to the body via two, strong rare earth magnets. Once attached to a plane, making square edges is a breeze and easily repeatable. Saving you time and of course aggravation when squaring up a stock's edge. I've used mine for years now and have never had a problem with it. The model featured in today's show is the regular model, but there is a version for low-angle planes too. If you're interested in ordering one for your shop, visit Highland Woodworking or Lee Valley. Please remember, every purchase you make helps to support the show! Tell them Matt's Basement Workshop sent you.[dewplayer:http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-436JointerFence141.mp3]Click to PlayDownload Video FileDownload Audio FileDon't forget to enter for free Schwag and please support our sponsors by visiting their links here on the website.
Moving along with our discussion of bench planes it's time to take a look at the jointer planes. The jointers are our middle of the road tools. These are the tools we reach for once we've taken our stock from it's rough cut faces and edges, leveled out the big hills and valleys and are ready to take the material to it's final finished dimensions. The jointers are big planes that have the weight to push through knots and tricky grain with little to no effort. But they can wear you out quickly if you're not careful. Typically I use my own to prep stock for final smoothing with a smaller smoothing plane. But you can easily set one up to act very much like a smoother if you really desired the workout. To find out more about which planes are which and what kind of job they do best, visit Patrick's Blood & Gore at www.supertool.com. [dewplayer:http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-435JointerPlanes340.mp3]Click to PlayDownload Video FileDownload Audio FileDon't forget to enter for free Schwag and please support our sponsors by visiting their links here on the website.Checkout this great deal at Popular Woodworking's Woodworker's Bookshop 5 Days Only - 20% Off No Minimum + Free Shipping on $25. Use coupon code June20WW. Hurry! The sale ends June 20, 2010.
Setting up and calibrating a jointer as well as a quick review of several knife-setting jigs.
Setting up and calibrating a jointer as well as a quick review of several knife-setting jigs.
A method for sharpening jointer knives.
How-to set jointer knives in the cutter-head of a jointer using a dial indicator and magnetic jig (jointer pal).
In this video I describe a method for face jointing wide boards on a jointer.
The jointer is as sensitive a piece of cast iron as exists in the shop. Learn how to tune and use yours to get the results you are after.
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