Podcast appearances and mentions of garrett hack

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I am a hobbyist that wants to start making more polished pieces but am stuck making most of my furniture out of Douglas Fir or cedar. While these are fine options, I want to get into other species like walnut, ash, etc. but am usually priced out when buying one or two boards. I feel like people buy in bulk or something to make the savings work. Could you offer some guidance on purchasing wood that isn't the normal big box stuff at a fair price? Thx! Ian Hi,I'm currently working on a cable railing for my stairs and have been laminating four 1-inch boards together to create 3⅝" x 3⅝" x 48" posts. However, I've encountered challenges achieving the final squared dimensions. My contractor's Bosch table saw is not capable to cut 3⅝" in one pass and doesn't provide a clean cut due to some broken teeth on the original carbide blade. Despite extensive searching, I haven't found a solution that doesn't require using a table saw. My current approach involves jointing and squaring two faces on the jointer, then flattening the remaining two faces on the planer. Initially uncertain about this method, I examined the posts and found all edges to be within an acceptable 90-degree tolerance, attributed to the accuracy of my approximately 70-year-old jointer fence.I'm curious why this method isn't more widely discussed. Could it be because most people don't typically work with this thickness, thus making the table saw seem unavoidable? Keep up the great Vafa Guys Questions: I am really enjoying listening to your podcast and, although I have been woodworking for over 50 years, I invariably learn something new from you.  An example is your discussion about the proper way to allow for wood movement on an inside shelf.  I am currently working on just such a configuration and will now look at bread board ends for the shelf. My question is about the advantages using metric in the wood shop.  Canada, where I live, is only partly metric and most of my friends use inches when laying out parts in their shops.  I took a course from Garrett Hack some years ago and said he likes to use metric as there are no fractions to deal with and in his view a millimetre (a 25th on an inch) is a good level  of accuracy. Do you ever use metric measurement when building your projects? Bob In the midst of reorganizing my shop. My question is about dust collection. I have about 500sqft of 1000sqft garage dedicated to my woodworking projects. Every time I cut something or sand, I coat the bikes, and all the other things stored there. Not focusing on the vacuums, what do you do about cleaning up the air? I am thinking about one of those Grizzly air filters but not sure it will do the trick. Thanks! Ian Huys Questions: Curious to hear your experiences with mentorship. Do you think it's important to have mentors in the shop? (Someone who you can learn from who's also invested in your progress) Grateful to have your podcast and love to hear the different perspectives from the 3 of you. Such a valuable resource for the woodworking community. Ari Hi guys, *Thanks for answering my past questions, I have another multi part one for you. I recently picked up a grizzly 5hp shaper, I know it's probably bigger than I need but I traded a few days work for it so the price was right. My first project I plan to do with it was patern cutting some 3.5 inch thick table legs. I ordered an amana 61295 spiral cutter and followed bearing but after setting it up it quite frankly scares the crap out of me. How would you guys go about holding the work piece? Would you cut from one side to the middle then reverse the machine and cut from the other side to prevent cutting against the grain? I'm new to shapers so any other advice would be helpful.  **The other part is I'm looking at a job where I'll probably have to shape a few hundred lineal feet of trim so I'm looking at getting a power feeder as well. I see they range from 1/8 to several hp, how big should I be looking at? I'll mostly see myself using it with smaller shaper bits but that could change as well as possibly setting it up on my table saw when I have to do long miters or lots of rip cuts. I've never used one before and couldn't find much info online, any tips and tricks would be a big help. Thanks, Mike Arntz

"If you have complicated grain, if you're complicated, you need extremely sharp tools and extremely skilled craftspeople.... You need to understand the sharpening as a part of the process, not an interruption of the process."CN: contains some discussion of the events of September 11, 2001 in the first 65 seconds of the episode.On the humble cabinet scraper, American identity, reaching for excellence, being deeply intimate with the sharpness of the tools we use, and directing our work towards compassion and away from fear.Transcript and notes:https://dev.intensivesinstitute.com/captivate-podcast/intimate-with-sharpnessFor more on Garrett Hack, furniture maker:http://www.garretthack.com/Recorded 11 September 2023.

Musicians are athletes of the small muscles, and in today's episode I dive into the types of injuries that woodwind musicians need to watch out for and how to prevent them with Garrett Hack. Show Notes: https://clarineat.com/96 Extended, ad-free episode and bonus content: https://clarineat.com/support Try D'Addario Reeds: https://clarineat.com/reeds 

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018. Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering  by Craig Thibodeau Question 1: From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail? Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue Question 2: From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying?   In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up. Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All Time Favorite Tool Ben: Sharpening stone box Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop Question 3: From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces? The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Head over to ShopTalkLive.com and leave a comment on this episode's show-notes page for your chance to win a one-year membership to Fine Woodworking's new UNLIMITED membership! We’ll pick a winner November 9, 2018. Make sure you check out The Craft of Veneering  by Craig Thibodeau Question 1: From Tom: I am building a credenza that will be 84" long, with solid walnut top and bottom. If the back is made of plywood (1/2" or 3/4"), is it ok to glue the back to the solid top and bottom pieces, or will differential wood movement cause this joint to fail? Strategies For Building Stronger Furniture by Mike Korsak #269–July/August 2018 Issue Question 2: From Ron: What are your opinions on the various panel clamps available (ie Damstom) and are any worth buying?   In most of your videos/articles I see shop made wooden cauls and lots of bar clamps, but I’m looking for a less stressful way since I struggle to keep things flat as I rush to get clamps on before the glue sets up. Creating an Attractive Tabletop, Part 2 Edge-jointing and glue-up by Bob Van Dyke #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue How to Make Cambered Cauls by Asa Christiana #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue Segment: All Time Favorite Tool Ben: Sharpening stone box Mike: Associate editor, Barry Dima, because he's a kiss up and gave him a set of dividers Tom: Small hammer he STOLE from the FWW shop Question 3: From Craig: I am going to build Garrett Hack's huntboard from issue #187. One thing I am unsure of is how to attach the drawer runners. The only thing shown in the text and plan is that they are tenoned at the front to the rails, with no mention of the back. They can't be mortised into the back panel like the kickers due to the assembly order, and simply gluing them to the sides would lead to cross grain gluing issues. I've thought of a couple ways I could attach them, one being sitting on cleats attached to the case back, or screwed into the side partitions with elongated holes. Do you guys have any thoughts or know how Garrett secured these pieces? The Versatile Huntboard by Garrett Hack #187–Nov/Dec 2006 Issue Video Workshop: Federal Side Table by Steve Latta How to Build a Swing-Out Drawer by Garrett Hack #234–July/Aug 2013 Issue   Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

In today's episode I'm joined by Garrett Hack, who is a freelance touring broadway musician. We discuss how to deal with playing repetitive and demanding music, keeping your chops up on the road, and some interesting and surprising accessories you'll need if you want to play in this line of work. Show notes: https://www.clarineat.com/86 Support the podcast: https://www.clarineat.com/support 

Garrett Hack replaces Mike... for this week. Plus left- vs. right-handed benches, advice on flattening blades, and finally, the big question: can you straighten wood with steam?

Garrett Hack replaces Mike... for this week. Plus left- vs. right-handed benches, advice on flattening blades, and finally, the big question: can you straighten wood with steam?

Asa Christiana hits the road, bound for Lee Valley/Veritas and a look at the manufacturing process behind some of today's most popular hand tools. Plus, Ed Pirnik introduces the new Shop Stumpers segment and offers listeners a chance to win a copy of woodworker Garrett Hack's classic title, The Handplane Book.

Asa Christiana hits the road, bound for Lee Valley/Veritas and a look at the manufacturing process behind some of today's most popular hand tools. Plus, Ed Pirnik introduces the new Shop Stumpers segment and offers listeners a chance to win a copy of woodworker Garrett Hack's classic title, The Handplane Book.