GEMOLOGUE: A Jewellery Podcast from Liza Urla

Today I would like you to meet Selim Mouzannar. I first tried on his jewellery creations inspired by Art Deco and Ottoman architecture during private MATCHESFASHION dinner in London. I love the simplicity of his design and rose-cut diamonds  to create a warm glow. Selim collections reflect his passion for the ocean, stars and open air. His star shaped pendant became iconic and in my wishlist. You launched your jewellery workshop in 1993 in Beirut. How did your brand start?How do your jewels reflect your background as both your father and grandfather were also jewellers?You studied mineralogy and graduated from Paris's Institut National de Gemmologie. How important is to understand and to play with gemstone colours to create jewels?What are your signature design elements? Are there any unique and special techniques used during the process like enamel and antique Mediterranean crafts?Can you speak more about your iconic pieces, the 7-point star of the collection Istanbul? How are your jewels created? 

I have been fascinated by Mike Joseph since I first tried on his second skin jewellery creations during Couture 2016 in Las Vegas. I love the simplicity of his design, yet it is a complex puzzle of individual pieces attached together replicating organic shapes of feminine curves. Mike Joseph Fine Jewellery stands for unique, innovative and avant-garde jewellery. Mike Saatji, Creative Director of Mike Joseph Jewellery, has dedicated the last 25 years to jewellery design and making of fine jewelry. Born in Armenia to a family of jewelers, he spent every spare moment of his formative years at the jeweler's bench. He believes jewellery completes the look, and make each one of us unique and sophisticated.What was your vision when you launched the brand, and does it still remain the same today?You continue to surprise us by pushing the boundaries of traditional jewellery design.Where do you find these bold ideas?I feel that many of your collections have been sketched in Europe. Where do you travel for inspiration when starting a new collection? Your Savage Love collection features tapered baguette diamonds in a stunning presentation of visual texture and implied movement. Is it your latest collection? 

In this podcast I would like you to discover the journey of a young jewellery designer within the contemporary jewellery design scene in a rapidly changing jewellery landscape. Bea Bongiasco latest jewellery collection is like a miniature fantasy world anyone can immerse in. I met Bea Bongiasco at COUTURE in Las Vegas and interviewed her classmates for GEMOLOGUE KICK GEM - the series of interviews with brilliant women and men who are about to dazzle the jewellery world with their exceptional talent and creativity.You founded your jewellery brand in Milan the same year you graduated from the Jewellery Design course at Central Saint Martins in London. How did the jewellery degree shaped you as a designer and prepared you to navigate the jewellery industry?What was your vision when you launched the brand, and does it still remain the same today?Your jewels are handmade in Italy. What is your day like at your workshop? How recognisable "Made in Italy" for jewellery? Your inspiration comes from the fascination you have always had with the Eastern countries and traveling. What inspires you to create?Your jewels are cheerful, lightweight and precious. How would you define contemporary jewelry design scene in "the era of playful fine jewellery"? What gave you confidence there is a consumer for contemporary jewellery design? 

In this podcast I would like you to meet Dima Nawbar of L'Ateleier Nawbar, the fourth generation jeweller. I am very excited for you to discover her jewellery brand which she runs together with her sister Tania across the Middle East and recently in London Harrods with the base in Beirut. I first caught a glimpse of L'Atelie Nawbar jewellery during Jewellery Arabia Bahrain at Azza Showroom. Dima was floating between clients and she was always surrounded by crowds of jewellery lovers and clients who could not get enough of her stacking jewellery designs. How did Atelier L'Nawbar brand start? In 1891 your great great grandfather opened in the Gould souk in Beirut and in 1983 your parents opened a boutique on London Bond Street? You use ethically sourced materials. You also encourage the use of ecological stones in certain collections and push clients to upcycle there own jewellery reusing their stones and materials. What are your thoughts on recycling or upcycling jewellery as a trend?What are your signature design elements? Are there any unique and special techniques used during the processDescribe your jewellery travel schedule pre Covid?  How has it changed and what have you learned from the lockdown?

I am currently running "United States of Jewels" series on GEMOLOGUE Instagram. Turns out, up to this point my selection was entirely taken over by talented American female jewelry designers, but here is one gentleman I couldn't leave out! Deeply beloved by you, my gem squad and with almost 50 years of experience in the industry, Anthony Lent Jewelry has become a collection of sculptural works of art conceived in silver and gold. Tony Lent is undoubtedly one of the top American fine jewellery designers working side by side with his sons.⁠ He has dedicated his life to the painstaking transformation of visionary images into intricate pieces of wearable art.How did Anthony Lent brand start?What inspires you to create? What are your signature design elements?How a jewellery startup can become successful?Can you speak more about yourThe Celestial collection? Inspiration, process, manufacturing.Why jewellery matters? What are your favourite jewellery books?

British-born Stephen Webster MBE blends a love of traditional craftsmanship with a passion for music, fashion and art to produce jewellery that has to be picked up, worn, held to the light and loved by many jewellery lovers. All Stephen Webster jewellery collections are contemporary with a chic glam-rock twist. His enthusiasm and unmistakable creativity have helped him to win ‘British Luxury Jeweller of the Year', ‘Diamond Jeweller of the Year', ‘Jewellery Designer of the Year', ‘UK Jewellery Brand of the Year', COUTURE Award again and again! So what is it that so many love about his brand? For me it's the bold and instant iconic style! The bright, colourful and exotic gems are just one of the many elements why we want more of Stephen Webster jewellery in our lives!How did your jewellery journey and Stephen Webster brand start?Where do you go for inspiration when starting a new collection?What do you think will be the impact of coronavirus on the jewellery world?⁠ How is the crystal haze effect achieved?

Silvia Furmanovich and I met in Sao Paulo over 8 years ago and I've been following the journey of her and her family's jewellery creations ever since. I was so honoured when she asked me to be the face of her Botanica marquetry fine jewellery collection with salvaged Amazonian wood with Brazilian gemstones! ⁠A native of Brazil, Silvia Furmanovich has travelled the world bringing a multi-cultural element to her jewellery creations. Inspired by age-old artisanal techniques from the countries she's visited like India, Egypt, Japan, and Italy. She creates the most stunning, one-of-a-kind statement pieces – a jewellery style much loved in Brazil, USA, Europe and the Middle East.⁠What inspired you to become a jeweller?What was your vision when you launched the brand, and does it still remain the same today?Where do you go for inspiration when starting a new collection?How do you want women to feel when wearing your jewellery?...

I first caught a glimpse of Brazilian Moritz Glik's delightful work over 7 years ago at Liberty London. The three pieces I saw there were enough to get me hooked forever! Originally a shoe designer, Glik is the sweetest, wisest and hard working men! He is based in NYC, where all his creations are handmade. Moritz design a kaleidoscope of colourful jewels moving with every movement. His jewellery ignites pure joy and playfulness in everyone lucky enough to wear them. #nobodyshakesitlikemoritzglikWhy did you choose to become a jewellery designer?How did you blend traditional technique with a playful, avant-garde sensibility in your signature locket design? What is your signature design element? How did you develop your innovative but timeless DNA across MUDA/ CORE / APOLLO collections? How important is drawing in the design process for you? How precise should it be?...

Whenever I am in São Paulo I make sure to visit Ara Vartanian, where I first met him over eight years ago. His avant-garde gemstones jewellery combine luxury with wearability! Ara spares no expense when it comes to the size of his gemstones especially paraiba tourmalines and emeralds. His jewellery is never boring and often mind-blowing. He is famous for his opulent and innovative jewellery design and one of the first jewellers to incorporate inverted diamonds into unique designs. Luckily, you don't have to fly to Sao Paolo to see his exceptional jewels. Ara Vartanian's boutique is tucked away in London Mayfair. How is your family history connected to jewellery and gemstones?What is your favourite stone and why?What makes Paraiba Tourmalines, Emeralds, Rubellites and Pearls special? How difficult is to source these stones for your jewellery? What do you look for in Paraiba Tourmalines and Emeralds for your jewellery brand: colour, clarity, character, carat? Is buying loose gemstones a good investment?