Podcasts about tools shops

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3:   From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike -  Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

If you are interested in learning more about how you can support Old Sturbridge Village’s cabinet shop, contact their development office at development@osv.org for more information. Question 1: From Joseph: I bought a new house in 2017 and instead of moving a lot of tools, I sold most of them and started over with new ones. There are 2 things I haven't yet invested in  - a router table and a dado stack. I'm primarily a hand tool guy, but I like to use power tools for dados/grooves and rabbets. Currently I am using my tablesaw with a FTG blade to nibble away at them, but I've reached my breaking point and want something a bit faster. I've used both a dado stack and a router table in the past. Both have some pluses and minuses for me; set up time being a major minus, but equally annoying for each. I'm also open to other alternatives that don't include joinery planes. Been there, bought the planes, sold the planes. I'm a lefty, and using planes right handed isn't fun for me. Tablesaw Blades for Joinery - Cut joinery faster and cleaner with a set of four blades By Bob Van Dyke #253–Mar/Apr 2016 Issue Question 2: From Nick: I have a question regarding a long distance relationship with a beautiful jointer. I am member of a "local" woodworking guild which has nice shop that is outfitted with a 16" jointer, a few nice planers. Unfortunately, I live a little over 2 hours away and at my home shop I currently only have a DW735 planer and no jointer. I would like to use all this nice equipment to do everything required to get straight, flat and square stock to take home and finish my projects. My concern is that by the time I throw it in the back of the truck and drive 2 hours home I would defeat the purpose. Does wood move that quickly when you're driving 80... ahem.. 70 mph? Can I get home and put in my climate controlled basement shop before I've warped everything out of flat/square? How would weather effect this (i.e. cold dry winter/hot humid summer weather?). The Basics of Milling Lumber - Key machines and smart strategy for making boards foursquare By Bob Van Dyke #276-July/August 2019 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Peter Galbert using a heat gun to straighten out riven stock Bob: Flush cutting on the tablesaw Video: Versatile Tablesaw L-Fence- Build a simple tablesaw fence accessory that handles a wide variety of joinery cuts By Bob Van Dyke The Incredible L-Fence - Take your tablesaw to another level with this simple shopmade fence By Bob Van Dyke #237–Tools & Shops 2014 Issue Ben: Drawing an extra line when sawing on the left side of your layout line Question 3:   From Jim: I am planning to build a sewing table for my wife. The plans call for using cherry plywood for several major panels of the case. While the stability of plywood is certainly an advantage, it is expensive and I like the idea of using glued up panels made from 4/4 stock. What would you do and why? Recommendations: Ben - Sharpen your marking gauge, because you know it's dull Mike -  Get a Soda Stream Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.  

Question 1: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard. Rollie’s answer: On tools if you have areas that the oil is applied to that don’t see use it can build a bit, but not much and over a long period of time. A quick wipe with a bit of naphtha or acetone will clean it off. Those solvents are essential because they are fully volatile and won’t leave any oily residue, which mineral spirits will do. Question 2: From Mike: In in a couple months I will be building a house and I will be putting my shop in the basement. Currently I have a small shop, but in my new shop it will be large (about 25x35). Since I have this rare opportunity, I want to put power in the floor and dust collection the floor. Therefore, I have to decide where to put my tools and I will not be able to move them. Are there general guidelines on placement of tools? How far should a table saw be away from a wall? What about a bandsaw, how far from a wall or in the sides? Same question for a router table, jointer and thickness planer. Grizzly’s online shop-layout planner A Layout Kit for Small Shops by John Yurko #174–Tools & Shops 2004 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using a bendy stick to hold in moldings as you glue them Anissa: A Box Worth Repeating by Laura Mays #240–May/June 2014 Issue Ben: Using blue tape and CA glue as a stand-in for double-sided tape StewMac’s YouTube Channel Marc Spagnuolo’s video Mike’s double-down technique: Using a bendy ruler clamped in a pipe clamp as a curve bow Shopmade Drawing Bow by Tim Coleman #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue Question 3:   From Chris: Do those of you with kids suffer like I do from a never ending queue of fix it items that are piled on the workbench and take precedence over projects? It’s fun to hack together solutions for beloved toys, and see the delight on their faces when it works, but it sucks up most of my limited shop time. Any tips on quick fixes, or do I just need to wait this period out until they are teenagers? Question 4: From Jim: I recently upgraded table saws with a killer deal on a used Delta Unisaw with a Unifence. I'm used to a Biesemeyer fence, and have a number of jigs utilizing the parallel faces of the fence, such as an L fence. I do not think I can use these jigs on the Unifence because it lacks the parallel faces necessary to track or clamp the jigs. Any ideas for Unifence modification or other tricks to increase the utility of the Unifence? Recommendations: Ben - StewMac’s YouTube Channel Anissa - Jonathan Livingston Seagull Mike -  Lee Valley - Lee Valley Toggle Clamp Plate Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Question 1: From Harry: How can I prevent Camellia from becoming all gummy. After letting a plane set for a few weeks that had been wiped down with Camellia Oil it was next to impossible to get the plane apart. I actually caused some minor damage it was stuck so hard. Rollie’s answer: On tools if you have areas that the oil is applied to that don’t see use it can build a bit, but not much and over a long period of time. A quick wipe with a bit of naphtha or acetone will clean it off. Those solvents are essential because they are fully volatile and won’t leave any oily residue, which mineral spirits will do. Question 2: From Mike: In in a couple months I will be building a house and I will be putting my shop in the basement. Currently I have a small shop, but in my new shop it will be large (about 25x35). Since I have this rare opportunity, I want to put power in the floor and dust collection the floor. Therefore, I have to decide where to put my tools and I will not be able to move them. Are there general guidelines on placement of tools? How far should a table saw be away from a wall? What about a bandsaw, how far from a wall or in the sides? Same question for a router table, jointer and thickness planer. Grizzly’s online shop-layout planner A Layout Kit for Small Shops by John Yurko #174–Tools & Shops 2004 Issue Segment: All-Time Favorite Technique Mike: Using a bendy stick to hold in moldings as you glue them Anissa: A Box Worth Repeating by Laura Mays #240–May/June 2014 Issue Ben: Using blue tape and CA glue as a stand-in for double-sided tape StewMac’s YouTube Channel Marc Spagnuolo’s video Mike’s double-down technique: Using a bendy ruler clamped in a pipe clamp as a curve bow Shopmade Drawing Bow by Tim Coleman #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue Question 3:   From Chris: Do those of you with kids suffer like I do from a never ending queue of fix it items that are piled on the workbench and take precedence over projects? It’s fun to hack together solutions for beloved toys, and see the delight on their faces when it works, but it sucks up most of my limited shop time. Any tips on quick fixes, or do I just need to wait this period out until they are teenagers? Question 4: From Jim: I recently upgraded table saws with a killer deal on a used Delta Unisaw with a Unifence. I'm used to a Biesemeyer fence, and have a number of jigs utilizing the parallel faces of the fence, such as an L fence. I do not think I can use these jigs on the Unifence because it lacks the parallel faces necessary to track or clamp the jigs. Any ideas for Unifence modification or other tricks to increase the utility of the Unifence? Recommendations: Ben - StewMac’s YouTube Channel Anissa - Jonathan Livingston Seagull Mike -  Lee Valley - Lee Valley Toggle Clamp Plate Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade. Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue  Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me. Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw Question 3:   From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I’m using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can’t seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don’t think the 3000 stone is my problem. I’ve thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don’t want a $100 experiment. Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it’s a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife’s car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won’t increase vibration. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

How Ben finished Mike's spoon - Finish Greenwood Spoons Like a Pro by Emmet Van Driesche Question 1: From Fabian: I have a sliding table saw and struggle to convert all the jigs mentioned in the magazine to fit my saw. How would you attach for example a kumiko grid jig as used by Mike in the article "Spice up your work with kumiko" to the saw? Do I fasten it with bolts to the crosscut fence or just let it ride in the one miter slot in the sliding table? In either case it is just secured on the left side of the blade. Spice up your work with kumiko by Michael Pekovich #259–Jan/Feb 2017 Issue Sliding Tablesaws: Is One Right for You? by Daniel Chaffin #272–Tools & Shops 2019 Issue  Question 2: From Chris: I'm on the lookout for a new paste wax solution. I'm totally over the petroleum smell of commercial options, and would love something simple with just a bit of luster to apply to my projects. Has Mike ever shared his recipe to attempt to recreate the non-longer-available Goddard's Cabinet Makers Wax? I never used the product in its original form, but I'm sold on his description of it. Something natural, simple, and lemon-scented sounds like the perfect solution for me. Which Waxes Work Best? by Mark Schofield Custom Blending Paste Wax in the Shop - Don Williams site Don'sBarn.com Briwax - Natural Creamed Beeswax Segment: All Time Favorite Tool of All Time… for this week Tom: Cabinet scraper and card scraper Mike: Dead blow mallet to straighten his folded-back backsaw Ben: ARK Shark Guard for his Delta Unisaw Question 3:   From Josh: I see pictures posted online where people have gotten a completely mirror polished edge on a chisel or plane iron. I’m using a Norton 1000 water stone, followed by a King 3000, followed by a Norton 8000 stone. I can’t seem to get that mirror polish. I still end up with some scratches, no matter how long I work with the 8000 stone, even when honing a new blade. I know Mike recommends 1000/4000/8000, but Lie Nielsen skips the intermediate grit, so I don’t think the 3000 stone is my problem. I’ve thought about trying to get a finer stone than the 8000 I have, but I don’t want a $100 experiment. Question 4: From Peter: The cement floor of my shop is unsealed and kind of wrecks my feet after a day in the shop. Keeping in mind that it’s a rental, do you have any recommendations for an affordable flooring option that may help my feet and also protect my equipment from the sludge that melts off my wife’s car? It needs to be solid enough that I can have my lathe on that won’t increase vibration. Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?   Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers. Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations: Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Check out our newest video workshop, Enfield Cupboard with Hand Tools featuring Chris Gochnour and be sure to help us make our video workshops even better by filling out this quick survey. Question 1: From Dean: I have an enjoyable dilemma. I am building a garage with adjacent shop space at our north home.  The shop is 200 sq-ft, one third the size of my St. Paul shop, and thus creates a challenge adapting to a small space. I have been devouring all the FWW articles on small shops and believe I can make this space workable but I will have to make some concessions, mainly my tablesaw, jointer, and planer. Will I be satisfied and served by a portable, contractor-style table saw and a combination jointer-planer?   Portable Tablesaws by Patrick McCombe #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 2: From Tanc: Is there a guideline for when stretchers are needed to strengthen a piece? I am looking to build an entryway table from oak that is 32-in. high, 60-in. long, 12-in. deep, with a  2 ½-in. apron and 2-in. legs that taper down to 1-in. I prefer simple designs, and would rather not have stretchers. Floating-Top Table by Michael Pekovich #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue Engineer Shelves With The Sagulator by Bill Kovalick #190–Mar/April 2007 Issue Brass Stretcher Brightens a Bench by Michael Robbins #267–Mar/Apr 2018 Issue Given a common inspiration, three furniture makers create a diversity of designs by Mark Schofield #184–May/June 2006 Issue Ben's mockup of Tanc's table with the given dimensions: Benside Table: Segment: Smooth Moves John: Not cleaning the lint off of a new floor finish applicator Anissa: Touching a friends piece of furniture while the finish was still wet Ben: Trusting a tool that should never have been trusted Question 3:   When I set up my workshop, I positioned the bench facing a south-facing window and installed fluorescents directly above the bench at about eight feet above the floor. If I have a board on edge, any markings on the side facing my body are difficult to see because that area is in shadow. I want to avoid using task lights wherever possible, as they just get in the way. I'm thinking that more overhead lighting is the answer.  Do you have any thoughts about where this should be positioned to minimize shadow areas when working at the bench? Let There Be Light by Nancy McCoy #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue Question 4: From David: I am baffled that some ash stock I milled a couple months ago is now nearly impossible to plane. I cut and milled the ash for a small box a while ago. It was wonderful to work with and easy to plane. I put the pieces aside to enjoy the far too short Minnesota summer. I kept it in the same place all my wood stock lives; my basement workshop. I was looking forward to getting back to work on the box. I decided to plane all the pieces again, assuming it wouldn’t be flat and square as it was months ago. I was dumbfounded that it was nearly impossible to plane. I used the exact same plane I used originally. I ended up resharpening the blade twice and adjusted it to take the finest possible shaving. Still it would stick and chatter across the board and leave tear out in the middle of smooth grain. To make sure I wasn’t hallucinating, I tried planing some oak and some twisty walnut. It performed beautifully. It was as though it had developed a skin of steel in the time since I first milled it. Any ideas about what/why this happened? Recommendations: Ben - PBS’s Craft in America episode–Visionaries Anissa - American violin maker–James Reynold Carlisle Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Show notes Links mentioned in this episode: Wood Planes Made Easy by David Finck #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QU8Ui9   Handwork: Make a coopering plane by Clark Kellogg #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QVs9YP   James Krenov on Handplanes by James Krenov #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QTT5YS   Get to Know Japanese Handplanes by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2wY5Mfg   Japanese Planes Demystified by Carl Swensson #145–Nov/Dec 2000 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QRCHrM   Soundproof a Basement Shop by Mark Corke #167–Tools & Shops 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QQRQd3   Mike Farrington on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXRWPT   Dorian Bracht on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXQtsR  

Show notes Links mentioned in this episode: Wood Planes Made Easy by David Finck #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QU8Ui9   Handwork: Make a coopering plane by Clark Kellogg #263-Sep/Oct 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QVs9YP   James Krenov on Handplanes by James Krenov #196–Jan/Feb 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QTT5YS   Get to Know Japanese Handplanes by Andrew Hunter #260–Mar/Apr 2017 Issue - http://bit.ly/2wY5Mfg   Japanese Planes Demystified by Carl Swensson #145–Nov/Dec 2000 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QRCHrM   Soundproof a Basement Shop by Mark Corke #167–Tools & Shops 2003 Issue - http://bit.ly/2QQRQd3   Mike Farrington on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXRWPT   Dorian Bracht on YouTube - http://bit.ly/2QXQtsR  

Show Notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh   Links mentioned: Video: Accurate Biscuit Joints by Tony O'Malley #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue   Fine Furniture with Biscuit Joints by Michael Fortune #227–July/Aug 2012 Issue   Hall Table with Flair by Jennifer Anderson #236–Nov/Dec 2013 Issue   Display Cabinet, the Krenov Way by Jim Budlong #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue   Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue   Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue   How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue How to Make a Mallet by Michael Cullen #230–Tools & Shops 2013 Issue

Show Notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh   Links mentioned: Video: Accurate Biscuit Joints by Tony O'Malley #165–Sept/Oct 2003 Issue   Fine Furniture with Biscuit Joints by Michael Fortune #227–July/Aug 2012 Issue   Hall Table with Flair by Jennifer Anderson #236–Nov/Dec 2013 Issue   Display Cabinet, the Krenov Way by Jim Budlong #208–Nov/Dec 2009 Issue   Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue   Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue   How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups by Michael Fortune #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue How to Make a Mallet by Michael Cullen #230–Tools & Shops 2013 Issue

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Mike, Matt, and Ben answer 14 questions in another lightning round   Show notes: http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb   Heating and Cooling Your Shop by Barry NM Dima #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue      The Secret to Better Chiseling by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Video: Bench Chisel Basics by Michael Pekovich #249–Sep/Oct 2015 Issue   Christian Becksvoort’s Shaker step stool   Rockler Soft Stem Bumpers   Lee Valley High-Friction Sheets   A Workbench 30 Years in the Making by Garrett Hack #209–Tools & Shops 2010 Issue   For a Benchtop, Use Light-Colored,Closed-Grained Wood by Matt Kenney #223–Tools & Shops 2012 Issue   Seal Your Project with Dewaxed Shellac by Jeff Jewitt #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue   Video: Can the Can(ned) Shellac by Michael Pekovich #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue   Video Workshop: Build an Arts and Crafts Coffee Table by Gregory Paolini   A Chessboard Made Easy by Craig Thibodeau #219–May/June 2011 Issue

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1 Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh Links from the show: Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq

Enter for your chance to win the Fine Woodworking SawStop Professional Cabinet Saw Giveaway - http://bit.ly/2HrUK1N Show notes: http://bit.ly/2Ls18c1 Become a member today and get instant access to all FineWoodworking.com content. Start your free two week trial here: http://bit.ly/2m576Fl For more Shop Talk Live or to submit a question: http://bit.ly/2mVJYd0 To see the newest issue of Fine Woodworking: http://bit.ly/2newDLh Links from the show: Make a Table from a Board by Michael Pekovich #243–Nov/Dec 2014 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sHpRkw Video Workshop: Single Board Side Table by Michael Pekovich - http://bit.ly/2Hqu8yf Left-Tilt vs. Right-Tilt Tablesaws by Hendrik Varju #191–May/June 2007 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYvKt Tablesaw Kickback by Kelly Mehler #116–Jan/Feb 1996 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sKYPsF Video: The Mighty DIY Push Stick by Ellen Kaspern #265–Tools & Shops 2018 Issue - http://bit.ly/2sJ30Fq Push pads that actually work. Are you ready? by Rollie Johnson - http://bit.ly/2sKTNMJ Build a Prairie Settle by Kevin Rodel #199–July/Aug 2008 Issue - http://bit.ly/2HqVlkq