BETA 5

E18: In this episode of Beta 5 we chat with the Olympian, Kyra Condie - about her brightest and darkest moments at the Games, competition nerves, idiopathic scoliosis, self-pity, and turning strengths into super powers!

E17: In this first episode of Season 2, we chat with Bouldering World Champion, Natalia Grossman - about her first World Cup win earlier this season, idiotic comments on social media, preparation for competition, the practice of gratitude, and chocolate cake! Natalia Grossman winning her first Bouldering World Cup, in Salt Lake City: (1:42:34) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg Follow her on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/nataliaclimbs/?hl=en

E16: In this, the final episode of Season 1, we chat with Kai Lightner about the climbing ratio: strength to body weight. Kai also shares about his non-profit C4C, Climbing for Change, and the amazing work they are doing! *Please note, the issues we discuss in this episode my be triggering for some. Please see below for support resources. Kai's Post: "Reflections on my Rock climbing Journey:" http://www.kai-lightner.com/blog/reflections-on-my-rockclimbing-journey Climbing 4 Change: https://climbing4change.org/ Support Resources for Eating Disorders: US: https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/ US: https://anad.org/ CAN: https://www.eatingdisorderstreatment.ca/ CAN: https://nedic.ca/contact/

E15: In this episode we chat with a young up-and-coming artist about his story of coming out, and how learning to value who he was became the onset of his success story. Whether or not you are a high performance athlete, we can only ever be the best version of ourselves, when we learn to love and value who we are. Daniel's website: https://www.danielstudio.org/art Daniel's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/realtimeartho/?hl=en

E14: In this episode I share 4 foundational rules for getting stronger. I also share a little of my growing up story, and how I built a fitness and training methodology that stayed with me for 35 years. Link to the Guinness World Record for the 1 finger / 1 arm pull up: https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/423701-most-one-finger-one-hand-chin-ups-in-one-minute

E13: In this episode we explore why people always seem to trip when running away from zombies... And how this is directly connected to the Olympics and competition climbing. Why do athletes “choke” in a competitive environment? What is "pressure," and how does it affect us? We cover some essential mental skills for preparing athletes for the big event, or for preparing anyone to face the moment that counts. Video of Natalia Grossman on the final boulder of the World Cup in Salt Lake City: (time code: 1:42:35) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AXC52wxDCGg

E12: In this episode we chat with pro climber Nina Williams. On the hit list: managing fear, practicing falling, the gremlin voice, going into the shadows, and pushing our limits! Plus Nina reveals an incredible new coaching initiative that she will be launching in the summer of 2021. LINK to Nina Williams on Ted Talks: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUDggpV4FfE Nina Williams on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sheneenagins/?hl=en

E11: In this episode we chat with mental performance expert and master of exercise psychology, Andrei Mandzuk. Andrei takes us through the top three skills in The Psychology Toolkit for athletes: 1. Goal Setting. 2. Visualization. 3. Focus of Attention. Get your notebook ready! Website: https://www.mzkperformance.com/ Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/46t0QXAZV1NO5hfJhnxFfr YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCAljr-lM4RNCq14bh27_OXg

E10: In this 10th episode of BETA5, we get to know the brain - that fat lazy kid who lives in your skull. We take a close look at how neuroplasticity allows us to break through training plateaus, and to learn new and complex movements for climbing; even as we get older (meaning any age over 4 years old). Link to Janja Garnbret's top of W1, at the Climbing World Championships, Innsbruck 2018 (timecode: 38:10): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YxAL5UaRXJ8&t=2337s Link to the insanity that is competitive Jump Rope (huge benefit to train jump rope for competition climbing): https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xck4kabiKKw Link to Moonwalking With Einstein, by Joshua Foer:  https://www.amazon.ca/Moonwalking-Einstein-Science-Remembering-Everything/dp/0143120530

E09: In this episode we hear from Olympian Nathaniel Coleman, on his latest World Cup experience in Meiringen. Nathaniel talks self-belief, strategies for competition climbing, and shares a powerful visualization that seems to transcend the sport. To see Nathaniel's Top of M4: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sO7KPBUeDWY Time Code: 1:43:18

E8: In this episode we discover how delusional we are when it comes to how we think about how we think. And we take a close look at one of the biggest factors that stunt our growth as competitive athletes - Limiting Beliefs.

E07: In this episode we look at will-power vs. why-power. We chat about a moustache that historically “frightened women,” the proverbial chicken crossing the road, and how having a “why” can empower and sustain us in a time of training where the future before us is largely unknown.

E06: In this episode we look at a common misunderstanding of what happiness is, and learn about two powerful methods for creating happiness no matter what circumstances we are facing.

E05: In this episode we hear from Youth Pan American Champion, Indiana, on how she dealt with a devastating injury, and how the narrative we tell ourselves can turn injuries of any kind, into opportunities to grow and improve.

E04: In this episode I share a practical and fun way for athletes and coaches to test the gap between what we think we are capable of, and our actual ability to endure pain and discomfort.

E03: In this episode we take a glimpse at the astonishing world record set by ultra-swimmer Ross Edgley. We also examine our natural instinct to avoid suffering and discomfort, while unboxing the importance of these times of testing.

E02: In this episode we chat about getting our butts kicked by this pandemic, proverbial cheeseburgers, and how a future-focused mindset can empower us to become a better version of ourselves.

E01: In this episode we hear from 2020 US Open Bouldering Champion, Natalia Grossman, on the physical and psychological factors that she trains the most.