Podcasts about Kyra Condie

Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Kyra Condie explores: "You suck try harder" Spray walls vs system boards Struggles with modern comp setting The power of the campus board Her super simple hang board routine Game changing skin care tips Tools to handle performance anxiety How to up/down regulate for a specific objective Updates from the World Cup and Olympic formats The elusive million dollar climbing sponsorship What even are the grades of comp climbs? - CHAPTERS: Struggle: (0:05:48) Training: (0:15:53) Nutrition: (0:38:31) Tactics: (0:47:23) Mental Game: (0:57:19) Purpose: (1:27:58) BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 10% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! Amazing skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you're pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase! 5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you're psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send.  And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow   Check out Kyra's YouTube channel, and the Circle Up! Podcast she does with Allison vest.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

In this episode, Kyra chats with Jesse Grupper, her good friend, roommate, and fellow Olympian. Jesse and Kyra start off by sharing some insight into their house and their similarities and differences when it comes to training mindset and planning. Jesse shares his thoughts about being an "underdog" in the past and how its helped him push himself and his limits while achieving benchmarked goals along the way. They then talk about how that's changed throughout the years. Jesse shares insight into why he feels so restless on rest days and him and Kyra chat about how climbers can try to use their platform to make a positive impact.

In this episode of Circle Up!, Kyra and Allison revisit a conversation Kyra had with Dan about climbing with a romantic partner—this time, flipping the script and asking Allison for her take. The two dive into the nuances of sharing projects, time, and training with someone you're dating, leading to a bigger discussion on how relationships intersect with high-level climbing. Then, Kyra breaks down her experience at a recent grip competition in LA, what she learned, and why grip sport might actually be a secret weapon for climbing performance. Tune in for a mix of deep conversation, laughs, and some unexpected takeaways! There was a technical difficulty while filming/recording this episode so they had to re-record the end--sorry for the difference in sound!! If you would like to WATCH this episode, check out the full video on our Patreon: patreon.com/circleup

In this episode, Kyra sits down with Campbell Harrison, Australian Olympic climber and passionate advocate for athlete representation, to explore a wide range of topics. They discuss the impacts of social media on their careers and mental health, and how it can be especially challenging following the Olympic explosion in popularity. They talk about the outdoor industry as a whole, and how climbing stars may be outgrowing the scope of the climbing industry in years to come. The conversation then delves into the challenge of advocating for topics that are close to the chest and putting what is best for the group above what is best for yourself. throughout the episode, Kyra and Campbell discuss the all-too-familiar struggle of fighting the inner voice that creates guilt around taking necessary rest days, indulging in small joys, or stepping back from the grind to focus on holistic well-being. **They discuss drinking alcohol and taking time off drinking, so if this is a sensitive topic for you, skip 27:00-32:45.

In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into their lesser known backgrounds as lead climbers and how it has shaped their skills as primarily boulderers. They share their favorite exercises and drills for training endurance and discuss why reflecting on your goals can help you modify your training to stay on track. They explore the challenges of climbing well while pumped, overcoming fear to push your limits, and the value of rest and focused attempts over grinding through fatigue. Whether you're aiming to train for a specific goal or just want ideas on how to switch up your training, this episode has plenty of actionable takeaways for climbers of all levels!

In this Episode, Kyra Condie and Dan Beall went into the recent top posts from r/climbharder and talked about some of the topics and themes they saw reoccur in recent hot posts. They talk about how, if you want to, to avoid "life as a mediocre climber" and what small changes and tweaks you can make to your attitude and everyday schedule to improve your climbing. Then, they break down the art of projecting—what it truly means to push your limits and challenge yourself on a climb. Plus, they debate whether anyone could climb V15 in perfect conditions, if Kyra has what it takes to dunk a basketball, and which training exercises are criminally underrated (or totally overrated). T-shirt link: https://tinyurl.com/Circleuppodcast Interested in coaching with Dan? Email at danbeall.climbingcoach@gmail.com for details (availability is limited)

In this episode, Kyra and Allison dive into listener questions from their Patreon, covering everything from building finger strength and improving crimp endurance to valuable lessons learned from their youth competition days. The conversation meanders through a variety of related topics, including when to consult a PT—whether for an injury or strength training, current trends in climbing science, and how climbing parents can stay engaged and advocate for safe, inclusive environments within youth teams.

In this episode, Kyra Condie and guest Dan Beall use Dan's experience with overcoming catastrophic injuries to give some advice when facing adversity in sport. They talk about Dan's shoulder dislocation and accompanying nerve damage that left him without a clear path to recovery and how he dealt with that, both mentally and physically. They also explore the nuances of confidence versus mastery, and how a delicate balance of the two can lead to an enjoyable experience for some (not all) on highball boulders, as well as how to confront fear in a safe and productive way. They finish by talking about the most common training plan mistakes Dan sees in his coaching and provide some tips to maximize your learning potential during each climbing session.

This week, Kyra and Allison get real about the struggle to balance their climbing obsession with the reality of needing rest days. The talk about the challenges of having a never-ending season both in competitions and with outdoor climbing (something is always "in-season") and how hard it can be to time things correctly between varying schedules and time windows. They chat about trying to stay in peak shape through that never-ending season and share some of their own experiments with training schedules to figure out what works for them and their goals. Finally, they take a fun trip down memory lane, back to the PanAmerican Youth Championships where Kyra and Allison first met, and Allison got to compete as a Canadian citizen for the first time.

In this episode, Kyra recounts her past two trips to Rocklands, South Africa for climbing trips and how she approached her third one differently than the first two. She remembers some lessons learned from her first trip in 2016, what she did wrong (like switching birth control right before leaving), what she would have done differently, and how that changed her whole approach to climbing outside in general. Sometimes, finding what motivates you is the most important.

In this episode of the Beta & Banter series Kyra and Allison chat about how to deal with a self deprecating climbing partner, when (and how) to avoid an ex at the climbing gym, and how does all that advice carry over to climbing with your romantic partner. other questions included what their opinions are of the recent age limit change in IFSC and how an unfunded athlete does the World Cup series. Tune in to hear all of their advice, beta, and banter!

A fellow podcast host and forever an Olympian, Kyra joins us and gives insights into her rather British-board-style training roots, her rock trips amidst busy seasons, her preparations for the Olympic games and her process for managing the psychological repercussions. Note: We take no responsibility for any subsequent competition retirement announcements... If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support it, please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

In this episode, we sit down with Mountain Hardwear athlete and Olympian Kyra Condie. Kyra has so much psyche and energy, and we had a wide ranging conversation, covering her past, present, and future climbing exploits. We start off with her experience winning the Hueco Rock Rodeo in 2017, her advice for competitors this year, and how her spinal fusion pushes her to have a creative mind and find her own beta. She also gave some excellent insight into the way comp climbers think, the key training focuses every climber should have, and how MORE climbers should get on routes and problems that are way too hard for them. Kyra is really open about dealing with fear of falling and fear of the unknown, and we unpack that and more, diving into relatable topics for most climbers. Finally, we cover her Olympic hopes for Paris 2024. Whether it's strategies for competing in Hueco, training tips, or mantras for good mental game, Kyra's wisdom is worth the listen!

In this episode, Kyra and Allison talk lightly about a serious topic: the macho culture of climbing, both indoor and out. They share their experiences growing up in male dominated training spaces and how that shaped them to be the climbers and people they are.

Kyra and Allison are both back from their climbing-packed summers and are excited to share with everyone what they've been up to during their recent podcasting hiatus. First they talk about how they make their livings from being a pro climber and then they recap about their respective trips. Allison spent 5 weeks climbing outside in South Africa and Kyra went to the last World Cups and watched the first few athletes punch their tickets to Paris 2024 at World Champs!

After qualifying for the 2020 Olympics, the global pandemic threatened to risk Kyra's dream. But instead, she persevered, building a home climbing wall and continuing to train for an additional year. No outdoor climbing, no “just for fun” days with friends–just repetitive, intense days getting stronger and fortifying all-around skill. Yet, after all that, Kyra came home without a medal. This conversation looks at failure and sacrifice–it asks: What happens when everything we've been striving for doesn't work out the way we expect it to? Because nothing is guaranteed, and sometimes, we can't control the outcome, no matter how hard we try.

In this episode, Allison and Kyra share their own thoughts and struggles with fear, both mentally and physically. Starting with the fear of failure in competition then into how to overcome (or not) fear while outdoor bouldering and lead climbing. Hopefully this conversation helps show that fear is a major factor of even a professional climber's struggle with any climb.

Kyra Condie is a professional rock climber who had a spinal fusion as a teen to stop a rapidly progressing scoliosis curve.  On this episode, Kyra discusses what it was like to have scoliosis progress to needing surgery when her climbing career was starting to take off.  Fast forward to the Tokyo Olympics and Kyra is the first athlete to compete in the Olympic Games with a spinal fusion.   She shares a great story about the first surgeon she went to telling her that climbing wasn't going to be a big part of her life, so she should just not worry about it.  She ended up having a second opinion from a surgeon who took her goals into account when doing the surgery.   One of the huge takeaways from this episode is to advocate for yourself...even if you are a teenager discussing with your parents.  If you are looking at surgery for scoliosis, Kyra also recommends getting a second, and maybe even a third, opinion.   You can find out more about Kyra's journey and story by following her on Instagram: @Kyra_condie or on her website: www.kyracondie.com Kyra continues to do some awesome things in climbing, so watch for her on the world stage.  She was also such a cool person to get to know on this podcast.  Thanks Kyra! 

Kyra and Allison recap the recent big competition for US competitors: National Team Trials. Allison was a commentator for the livestream of this event while Kyra competed to clinch a spot on the World Cup team this year. After a trying couple years after the Olympics, Kyra was able to implement some big mindset changes and found that curiosity was key for her success at this competition.

Kyra Condie is a rising star in the world of climbing, known for her strength and unstoppable attitude.Diagnosed with Scoliosis as a young teenager she was told she would never climb again. Defiant to a fault, she pushed against opinions of what she was told and propelled herself into the world of elite athleticism and getting all the way to the Olympics. And she's just getting started.Kyra's unwavering determination and growth mindset have been the foundation for her success. In this episode of the Growth Mindset Podcast, we sit down with Kyra to discuss her journey to becoming an Olympian, and the powerful lessons she's learned about perseverance, resilience, and the power of a positive attitude.Whether you're a climbing fan or simply seeking inspiration on your own personal growth journey, this is an episode you won't want to miss.- - Sponsor - LinkedInAttract talent from the world's largest professional network.Post a job in minutes for free to get targeted professionals applying to you.Create a free job post now - Linked.com/GROWTH- -Connect with Kyra:Instagram - @Kyra_CondieWebsite - KyraCondie.comPodcast - Circle-Up podcast- -Connect with Sam:Sam's newsletter on creativity - Explosive Thinking Watch the pod - YouTube - Growth Mindset- - Chapters 00:00 Introduction02:14 Diagnosed with scoliosis03:04 Kyra's alternative path if she had not pursued sports03:41 Kyra's injury04:16 Facing fear04:40 Entrepreneurship05:30 Emotions dealing with Scoliosis08:01 Olympian's life compared to other friends'09:11 Mental health09:52 Dragon's den tangent10:15 Balancing life11:30 ADVERT - LinkedIn Jobs13:00 Advantages of pro climbing vs other sports13:40 Climbing training volume15:04 Kyra's climbing style / technique17:46 Avoiding injuries18:28 Mood booster on a bad day19:45 Kyra's advice to her younger self20:37 Did Kyra struggle with confidence when she was young?21:25 Danger of overconfidence21:44 Kindest thing22:19 Kyra's message to the world Become a member at https://plus.acast.com/s/growth-mindset-podcast. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Kyra and Allison use this episode to talk about a topic that comes up every month... every month. Periods. As something that 50% of the population deals with on a monthly basis, they try to have an open dialogue about their own trials and troubles that go along with being a professional athlete and the menstrual cycle. Some bonus embarrassing stories are shared by both. Even if you don't get a period yourself--this is a great listen to try and educate yourself on something your loved one/friends/coworkers/training partners go through!

Allison and Kyra talk about their personal experiences with comparing themselves to others in the gym and in competition. Most of the time unavoidable, comparison can lead you down a spiraling mental pathway, but there are techniques you can use to turn those negative emotions into at least neutral learning experiences, if not positive motivation.

In this episode, Kyra and Allison talk about drug testing and what it's like being an athlete that's in the testing pool of USADA/WADA. They work to clear up some common misconceptions they've heard about drug testing and how the process works. In the second half of the episode, listen to them share some never-before-heard stories about their climbing related tattoos.

In this episode Kyra interviews Allison about her experiences since taking a step back from competing and instead focusing on outdoor climbing. Listen to Allison talk about her experience with projecting a v14 (8B+) and how she's worked on her mental space to be able to project at her limit. Allison was the first Canadian woman to successfully complete a v13 (8B) then later a v14 (8B+). She is one of the few female climbers in the world to complete a climb of that difficulty.

In this episode, the cohosts Allison Vest and Kyra Condie switch roles and have Allison interview Kyra about her time at leading up to the Olympics and competing there. The unique perspective that Allison brings as Kyra's friend while interviewing means the questions are insightful and unlike anything Kyra has talked about in previous interviews.

In this episode of the Female Athlete Nutrition podcast, I talk with Olympian and professional rock climber Kyra Condie. We start off with a little coffee debate: home brewed or coffee shop?! We touch on the effects of caffeine on performance, both positive and negatives, and how our genes determine how we respond to caffeine. Kyra shares her start in climbing: after attending a rock climbing birthday party she was hooked! Without a school climbing team, and missing out on time with friends for training, Kyra explains how she questioned her future in the sport. Kyra discusses how surgery to correct her scoliosis reminded her of her climbing passion, and we hear how she continues to navigate challenges to overcome pain and movement limitations related to her back. We talk about climbing being introduced into the Olympics for the first time in Tokyo 2020, a competition Kyra competed in. Kyra explains the different forms of climbing: bouldering, lead, and speed climbing, and how the sport is evolving.  Climbing places a strong emphasis on strength-to-weight ratio, and disordered eating is common in this sport. Kyra speaks to the experiences she has had watching other athletes get caught up in being lighter and underfueling, and how she has learned that being stronger is better than being lighter. Kyra highlights how not all successful athletes struggle with food, showing that there is another way. Kyra credits her years of consistent injury-free training to fueling enough and not restricting. As a vegetarian athlete, Kyra shares how she is intentional about protein and supplements with creatine. We highlight the importance of ensuring all supplements are safe for sport and not contaminated with banned substances: look for “NSF” and “Informed Choice” certifications. Kyra Condie's Official Bio: Kyra is a 26 year old professional climber and University of Minnesota alumni. Kyra was born and raised in Shoreview, Minnesota, but currently lives in Salt Lake City, Utah. She started climbing when she was 11 years old at her original home gym, Vertical Endeavors in St. Paul, MN. After she had completely fallen in love with the sport of climbing, she discovered that she had severe, idiopathic scoliosis. It was devastating news, but she wouldn't let her condition hold her back. On March 12, 2010 she had a spinal fusion surgery to correct her more than 70 degree curvature and took several months to recover. Though she started competitive climbing before her surgery, she didn't win her first major competition until after her time off. Since then, she has qualified for the Tokyo 2020 Olympic Games, become a bouldering World Cup finalist, and is a regular at pro competitions around the US.  Follow Kyra on Instagram @kyra_condie and the Female Athlete Nutrition podcast @female.athlete.nutrition   THANK YOU TO OUR SPONSORS: Inside Tracker: www.insidetracker.com/riseup for 20% off the entire store for a limited time only! THIS PODCAST IS ALSO SUPPORTED BY: Practice Better Click the link below to view plans and get a 14-day free trial. Then use the code RISEUP20 for 20% off your first 4 months: https://practicebetter.grsm.io/runp This episode is brought to you by the Female Athlete System of Transformation, the FAST track for female athletes to overcome disordered eating and fuel to their highest performance: Learn more about Lindsey's Services and the Team at Rise Up Nutrition: www.RiseUpNutritionRUN.com Worried that you have RED-S? Curious to know how we could help or how you can recover fast?! Download the RED-S Recovery Race & see how you place for more support: www.RiseUpNutritionRUN.com/REDS

Hello! Here is another episode of Ahead of the Curve, The Scoliosis Experience. In this podcast, I answered the question of why corrective scoliosis exercise is important before and after surgery.Just an update before we delve into the topic for this week's episode, over the weekend I taught Scolio-Pilates Module 1, which is a teaching certification for Scolio-Pilates. One of the students did not have Scoliosis, so we propped her in a way that she was rotated and side-bent a bit so she could feel and experience how it was to exercise with Scoliosis.Now, with that update out of the way, let's start with the topic for this episode. Let's discuss:• An update about Scolio-Pilates Module 1 Teaching Certification• A student's experience after Module 1• Why many of my clients suffer from TMJ issues, jaw pain, teeth grinding• Why do people want to have corrective surgery for scoliosis • Why should you do corrective exercises before and after surgery• The benefits of doing corrective exercises• Why you should do corrective exercises nowI want you to know that if you are considering having spinal fusion done or you already underwent one, it should not limit you. There's this one amazing Olympian named Kyra Condie, and she had corrective surgery for her 70-degree Scoliosis many years ago. After the surgery, she was able to become an Olympic climber. With this, I want to leave with you the thought that there are no limits to what you can do after surgery with the right guidance and care! Before I let you go, I just want to give you a heads-up that I will have a special offer around Black Friday so you can care for your spine in a more financially feasible way. Stay tuned!Are you interested in working together on your scoliosis with scoliosis-specific Pilates? Schedule a FREE discovery call here: https://schedulethescoliotherapist.as.me/Learn more about scoliosis therapy here: https://mindfulmovementptpilates.com/scoliosis-therapyGet my BEST Sleep Positions for Scoliosis FREEBIE here: https://mindfulmovementptpilates.com/newsletter

We're not really sure how much free time training for the Olympics leaves you, but we're pretty sure it's not a whole lot. Which makes it all the more impressive that Kyra Condie's resume boasts a number of climbing advocacy and inclusive access accomplishments, most notably as a member of the USA Climbing board of directors. A climber and advocate from a young age, Kyra first learned about Access Fund and her local climbing organization, Minnesota Climbers Association, when she was on a youth climbing team in Minnesota. Inspired by the organizations' missions to protect and steward climbing areas, Kyra found her advocacy passion in inclusive access to climbing, especially providing access to people who otherwise might not think they belong in the climbing community. Follow along as Peter and Kyra discuss her upbringing in Minnesota, the Olympics, and what she is most passionate about in her board role with USA Climbing. 1:43- Kyra's intro 3:31- Climbing in Minnesota 5:49- Aspirations to be a veterinarian 7:20- Prepping, qualifying and the structure of the Olympics 14:57- Kyra's beginnings in climbing advocacy 17:15- Advocacy in SLC 21:23- Climbing festivals influence on advocacy 30:51- Sentiment among Kyra's peers on advocacy 32:29- Board role with USA Climbing 39:51- Final thoughts Kyra's Instagram: @kyra_condie Minnesota Climbers Association:https://www.mnclimbers.org/ USA Climbing: https://usaclimbing.org/ Home Crag video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d2w77nWlPC8 Salt Lake Climbers Alliance's “Save Little Cottonwood Canyon”: https://www.saltlakeclimbers.org/lcc-udot-eis

Today we have another returning guest having previously chatted on the show, with her partner in crime Kyra Condie. Who is both accomplished in indoor competitions as well as in outdoor climbing, having climbed up to V14! Please welcome back to the show .... Allison Vest!Allison first came to the attention of us at Lattice through a piece of data funnily enough. Quite some time ago, Tom Randall was compiling a list of the greatest finger strength levels ever measured in female athletes and Allison was right at the top.Naturally, he wanted to dig into the information a bit further as the numbers were pretty outrageous! Over the last few years, Allison has risen to the position of one of the most accomplished outdoor boulderers in the world having climbed up to V14, which is also on top of a track record of multiple competition podiums for indoor competition climbing. On top of this, she's someone who has a prolific social media presence, seamlessly connecting between content that's both light-hearted and serious, but always with such an accessible style. We wanted to get her back on the podcast to talk about all things performance, training and bouldering focused. Tune in to hear all about:Her transition from coached to self-coached climbingHow she manages training vs performingHer thoughts on restingHow she trains on a fingerboardWhat her ‘personal bests' or scores on a fingerboard areTesting with Camp4 Human PerformanceWorking ‘strengths' vs working ‘weaknesses' in climbingHer personal warning signs for when to not strength trainHow to access the ‘top end' in boulderingHow she deals with the ‘a Muerte' attitude towards training and performanceThe Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Olympian, and professional rock climber, Kyra Condie, shares her journey in sports. She talks about the highs and lows of joining a male dominated sport, what it was like being one of the first rock climbers in the Olympics, and maintaining self-care as an athlete. Additionally, she addresses the struggles she faced as a rock climber with scoliosis and how she not only overcame but continues to overcome this challenge in order to remain successful in her sport. Kyra provides advice for young women who may be interested in pursuing rock climbing or any underrepresented sport. Additionally, she talks about the work being done in order to bring more attention to the sport of rock climbing as a whole. “I think confidence is hard to come by as a woman in our world and so we should definitely foster it and make sure that young women especially, don't get told that it's wrong.” - Kyra Condie 

Olympic climber Krya Condi examines how rock climbing affects all areas of her life, including problem-solving, setting goals, and conquering fear.

Kyra Condie is a 25-year-old professional climber based out of Salt Lake City, UT, and was one of four climbers to represent the US at the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. We talked about whistling, dream broadway roles, training with a fused spine, pursuing the Olympic dream, separating self-worth from results, new tattoos, her cats, cleaning quirks, and thriving in organized chaos.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan Fast, Leo FranchiBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kyra-condieNuggets:5:24 – Competitive whistling, and comparing her brother to Mozart10:13 – Musical theater, piano, and flute11:12 – Kyra's dream broadway roll, and Les Miserables13:04 – Allison's (Vest) role in the broadway scenario13:42 – Trying other sports, and discovering climbing15:52 – Patron question from Atlin: If you were to do an Olympic sport besides climbing, what would you want it to be?17:32 – The variety of climbing as a double edge sword19:22 – Interest in comps vs. outdoor climbing23:24 – An X-ray description of Kyra's back25:06 – Severe idiopathic scoliosis, getting surgery shortly after finding climbing, and growing 2” overnight28:27 – Seatbelts and toilet paper29:39 – How Kyra trains around her back limitation, and how the changes in setting style have forced her to face it head-on33:30 – Shifting her focus more toward lead, and a recap of Nationals37:28 – Separating self-worth from results40:18 – How Kyra feels about her Tokyo experience46:17 – First Olympian with a spinal fusion (at least as large as hers)48:12 – The Olympics as a goal 50:23 – Enjoying not having a goal after Tokyo, and star chasing52:41 – Plans for a non-climbing vacation, and a slight burnout on competitions 53:58 – Being more open about her back as a disability, and being more relatable to others56:24 – 2024 Olympics?58:26 – How Kyra's training changed leading up to the Olympics, and thriving in organized chaos1:01:40 – How Kyra's climbing changed from the prep for the Olympics1:03:28 – Thoughts on speed climbing and psicobloc, and deep water soloing in Vietnam with Tim Emmett1:07:18 – Patron question from Liam: Have you always tried to climb fast in lead? Have you tried other styles?1:09:28 – Training your strengths, and supplementing to address weaknesses1:12:59 – Adopting Pepper and Pika (Kyra's cats)1:15:30 – Martha the robot-vacuum1:17:08 – Skin and dishwashing gloves, and Kyra's detergent sponsor1:19:22 – Cleaning/tidiness quarks1:21:23 – Sad movies, and looking for movies on Reddit1:25:08 – Marvel movies, and superheroes1:26:02 – Other favorite movies1:27:21 – Going blonde, and new tattoos1:31:47 – Patron question from Eli: What is your favorite part about your being so deeply ingrained or intertwined with climbing? What is the worst part?1:36:58 – Patron question from Eli: What do you hope the Olympic experience will bring to the broader climbing community?1:38:15 – Olympic memories1:39:14 – What Kyra is most proud of in her climbing career so far, and giving her best1:41:44 – What's good1:43:07 – What's next, where to find Kyra, and sharing advice on Reddit1:45:24 – Present focus

To bounce back from major back surgery and become an accomplished climber would be a massive achievement for anyone. But to turn it into an Olympic career? That’s legendary. Americans and the world were treated to history’s first-ever Olympic climbing competition this year. And among the sport’s first athletes was Kyra Condie — one of just four climbers on the U.S.’s pioneer team. Unfortunately, these Olympics were remarkable for more than just climbing’s debut. Condie weighs in on not only being one of America’s first climbing Olympians, but also one of the very few who’ve competed in the devastating wake of a global pandemic (harkening back to the 1920 games and the Spanish flu). But Condie’s story is harrowing — and she has plenty to discuss on how climbing was received and how it may change in Olympics to come.

This week on the show, Mac & JA spoke to the pod's #1 ticket holder and fan favourite, Kyra Condie. It's safe to say that we have a soft spot for Kyra, as she was our first ever guest interview way back in March of this year. Fast forward nearly 8 months and a lot has happened on her journey and in her career as a professional sport climber.We delve into her first Olympic experience including her nervous 18 month build up to the Games and her fan girl moments running into basketball superstars Yao Ming & Rudy Gobert. We also cover her disappointment of not reaching the Olympic finals and what she would've done differently had she had her time again. We loved having Kyra on the pod once again and can't thank her enough for giving two Aussie idiots another go. Speaking of, the lads even try and make Kyra an Aussie national with an impromptu citizenship test. Find out and see how she fared and whether or not she will be representing Australia in Sport Climbing at the Paris 2024 Olympic Games!Thank you for listening to the show. Please don't forget to subscribe to the podcast and leave us a review!

E18: In this episode of Beta 5 we chat with the Olympian, Kyra Condie - about her brightest and darkest moments at the Games, competition nerves, idiopathic scoliosis, self-pity, and turning strengths into super powers!

When it comes to the Olympics, we will probably never see a climbing competitor like Kyra Condie again. While other competitors in Tokyo have had the benefit of robust, government-funded national programs or boutique climbing teams, 23-year-old Kyra has spent the better part of a decade as her own coach and trainer while navigating the highest levels of international competition. 

Kevin Tobin is an owner, camp director, and youth programs coordinator for Peak Experiences climbing gym and Passages Adventure Camp in Richmond, Virginia. He also coordinates the Bouldering competition for the Dominion Energy Riverrock festival each year, which attracts some of the top climbing athletes to compete, including Nathaniel Coleman, Kyra Condie, and Brooke Raboteau, three of the members of Team USA in the Tokyo Olympics. In addition to the athletes representing the U.S., Garrett Gregor is the lead route setter for the Olympic event and he's held the same role in the past at Riverrock. So Kevin is a great source for knowledge on all things related to climbing.He gave us great insight into the competitors and format for the Olympic event ahead of the start of the climbing competition on August 3, so be sure to listen before you tune in to the Olympics. If you're interested in checking out Peak Experiences or Passages Adventure Camp, visit www.PeakExperiences.com. For more information on Dominion Energy Riverrock, go to www.RiverrockRVA.com.

Two sports new to the Olympics in Tokyo are based on imagination. Visualizing and then executing a sequence of movements in precise order and in total control are key to both Sport climbing and Karate's Kata. We revisit Sakura Kokumai's explanation of Kata as the first practice takes place on Olympic day 8. Off the tatami and onto a wholly vertical plane, american climbers Kyra Condie and Nathaniel Coleman tell us how to get a hold of any problem. Listen to The Podium daily during the 2020 Tokyo Olympic Games for new insight into the stories you know and the ones you'll be happy to discover.

Kyra Condie is preparing to compete in the first-ever Olympic climbing competition by sharpening a collection of tools that includes everything from opera playlists to visualization to something called the inverted U of optimal functioning. On this episode, she and sports psychologist Dr. Lindsay Shaw unpack how those things help Kyra conquer difficult climbs—and how you can make use of them in your own life. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit podcastchoices.com/adchoices

Allison Vest is a 3x Canadian National Champion in bouldering. We talked about her mindset after a recent competition, moving to SLC and training with her roommate Kyra Condie, goals and confidence, the downward spiral of failure, her training schedule, the secrets to one-arm hangs and campusing, having fun, Instagram challenges, and learning how to topout boulders.Support the PodcastBecome a PatronFacebook GroupShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/allison-vestNuggets:3:24 – The climbing closet4:55 – World cup debrief, and the post-comp headspace11:23 – A mix of emotions12:49 – The motivation of a competition climber17:30 – Goals, confidence, and failure23:48 – How Allison and Kyra debrief competitions, and opposite personalities 24:40 – The benefit of not being teammates28:09 – Growing up in Canada and meeting Kyra Condie32:30 – Salt Lake City as the epicenter of training35:58 – Playfulness and “Fail Friday”41:47 – Instagram Challenges (backpack and shorts dynos45:06 – The standing splits challenge47:33 – Combining training with play52:43 – Priorities vs. powering through, and how Allison got the nickname “Big Al” 59:26 – Allison's training volume, and comparing different high-level climbers1:03:11 – Campusing 1:05:42 – One-arm hangs1:16:25 – Shoulder strength1:17:41 – Christian Core's hangboard philosophy1:20:07 – Grip positions1:21:52 – Allison's hangboard schedule, and many different approaches that work1:25:38 – Starting to climb outside more1:27:36 – Topouts1:38:09 – How outdoor climbing compliments competition training1:45:20 – Patron Question from Jimmy: Most memorable competition moment?1:47:01 – Patron Question (anonymous): What does she miss the most about Vancouver/Squamish? And the least? 1:50:47 – Patron Question from Jordan: Can you introduce me to KJ Apa?1:52:31 – Jonas Brothers, Jumanji, and Robin Williams1:54:09 – Best decisions1:55:10 – Competition self-talk1:57:07 – Advice for young competitors1:58:06 – “More doesn't always mean better.”1:58:45 – What is standing between Allison and the 2024 Olympics?2:00:01 – Grateful for community

Today on the podcast is Kyra Condie! Kyra will be competing for Team USA in the Tokyo Olympics in climbing. She is a pro climber and started climbing at age... The post Episode 321: Kyra Condie – Olympic Climber Shares her Journey to Tokyo appeared first on Lindsey Hein.

It's Great Wide Open, Olympics edition! Host Lisa Hathaway loves the world-wide competition, and her enthusiasm comes through when interviewing her Olympian guests. First up is Moab part-time resident and skier Pete Patterson, who competed in the 1976 and 1980 winter Olympics. He talks about his upbringing on ski runs in Idaho and gives some sound advice to any kids interested in competing – bring joy to your sport and have fun. Then (30:00), Salt Lake City based climber, Kyra Condie, will be competing on the first-ever US climbing team in Tokyo this summer in speed climbing, bouldering, and sport climbing. Condie talks about her training and preparation for this exciting inaugural event. Photo: Kyra Condie will be competing in the summer Olympics on the US Climbing Team.

Climbing Power Partnerships!Tom sat down with Team USA Olympian Kyra Condie and Team Canada 3x national champion Allison Vest recently to talk about their power partnership.

Fear of typhoid paralyzed Victorian England. Olympian Kyra Condie overcomes obstacles to make the US Olympic team.

USA sport climber Kyra Condie has an inspiring story to tell. Join Mac & JA for an entertaining chat, as she takes us through her journey from early injury setbacks to qualifying for the 2021 Tokyo Olympic Games. Kyra also settles the debate on who out of Mac or JA would make it to the Olympics.Thank you for listening to the show. Please don't forget to subscribe to the podcast and leave us a review!

Making her second appearance on It Takes Two with Amy & JJ, Kyra Condie talks about her inspiration to be a climber and how that has led to her qualification for the next summer Olympics (the 2020 games postponed to 2021). She has roots in Minnesota and gives KFGO listeners a peak into what it is like to train for the Olympics - especially with a sport that is newly added to the lineup! Follow Kyra on her instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Former Kenyan Premier League player Jacob Viera tells us how a Tanzanian gang almost killed him after he refused to be a drugs mule. He was electrocuted in the attack and his doctor felt he would need a miracle to survive. A subsequent trial at Newcastle United led to him seeking asylum in England. While waiting to gain UK residency he suffered a serious injury that ended his hopes of becoming a professional footballer. He’s now living in Liverpool and doing his refereeing qualifications. He aims to become a Fifa elite referee and says it would be a dream to take charge of a Merseyside Derby. Legendary South Africa all-rounder Lance Klusener joins us in the week he completed a 200km endurance race on the dry salt pans of the Verneukpan in the Northern Cape. He was part of “Team Cricket” in the Battle of the Sports event to raise funds for covid relief in South Africa. He tells us how they battled the terrain, mental fatigue and sleep deprivation. Klusener also explains why he needed to do something to help people affected by the pandemic. Leonessa Brescia won the Italian Baseball for the Blind Championship last week. Their assistant coach Michele Bianchi tells us why it was the biggest achievement in the club’s history. We also hear from one of the founders of blind baseball, Lorenzo de Regny, who tells us how the sport came about and what it means to see blind athletes competing in such a liberating sport. And Mariela Gonzales from the World Baseball Softball Confederation tells us their aspirations for blind baseball to one day feature at the Paralympic Games. Kyra Condie is one of the first American women to qualify for climbing at an Olympic Games but her career nearly ended before it began. Shortly before she turned fourteen years old she had to have major surgery on her back as a result of Scoliosis. She tells us the first hospital she visited told her to forget about climbing and that she still keeps in touch with the surgeon who fixed her back, which she describes as having been like an “s” shape previously. She also explains her unique climbing style and how she burst into tears when she qualified for the Tokyo games. Sports broadcaster Rikki Swannell joins us live from New Zealand as the All Blacks prepare to face Australia in front of a crowd of forty seven thousand people at Eden Park on Sunday. The country, with a population of 4.8 million people has been so successful in combating Covid-19 that it had only one new case in the 24 hours leading up to 13 October. Swannell also brings us the latest news ahead of the Super Netball Grand Final in Australia. In Sporting Witness, we tell the story of the American Garrett McNamara, who pioneered surfing the colossal waves at Nazaré in Portugal and broke the world record for the biggest wave ever surfed. And – the BBC’s football correspondent – John Murray – joins us live from Goodison Park ahead of Premier League leaders Everton facing the reigning champions Liverpool. Photo: Jacob Viera refereeing the Merseyside County Cup Final at Goodison Park in 2019

Our guest, Tom Condie, is the father of USA Olympic Team climber, Kyra Condie. Kyra has an aggressive and quick climbing style that has contributed to her success. She’s won 1st place and placed in the top 10 at many rock climbing competitions – too many to list here, but they include: 1st place, 2019 USA Combined Invitational Nationals 1st place, 2018 Bouldering National Cup 1st place, 2018 Bloc Shop Open, Montreal, Canada 1st place, 2017 Tuck Fest, Charlotte, North Carolina However, Kyra had to overcome a major obstacle to achieve her climbing goals. At the age of 13, she was diagnosed with idiopathic scoliosis – a severe spinal curvature that required major surgery, involving the fusion of about 10 vertebrae. Kyra dedicated herself to her recovery with the same intensity that she climbs with and, just two years later in 2012, she won the Youth Bouldering Nationals in Colorado Springs. Kyra's older brother, Xander, is a teacher. He is working tirelessly to serve his students during these unprecedented times of remote and hybrid learning. Tom Condie is a dedicated father. Viewing fatherhood as his most important responsibility, he made the choice to work part-time so that he could invest more time in raising his family. In this episode, Tom discusses that decision, shares some terrific parenting advice & stories, and talks about how he applied some wisdom from Harry Truman in raising his two amazing children. Kyra Website, Social Media, & Videos Website: kyracondie.com Social Instagram: @kyra_condie Twitter: @KyraCondie Facebook: KyraCondieClimbing Videos Kyra Condie & Tim Emmett deep water solo in Vietnam: https://youtu.be/ufc-AYArSOk 2018 Bouldering World Cup (5 min): https://vimeo.com/287545002 “Reckless Abandon” video (9 min): https://youtu.be/I3e50R_GpIY Fathering Excellence on the web & social Website: FatheringExcellence.com Instagram: @FatheringExcellence Facebook: Facebook.com/FatheringExcellence Twitter: @FatheringE

Pro-climber, Kyra Condie features in this episode of the Sportageous Podcast, with host, Zushan Hashmi. Kyra is often called 'Reckless Abandon' by sport climbing commentators for her willingness to take risks while climbing. In this episode, Kyra talks about how she started her climbing journey in Minnesota, what her career has on the horizon, and how she is preparing to qualify for the Olympics. Kyra also tells us about her favourite Netflix show, and what she enjoys watching.

Our first Rock Climber ever joins the show! Kyra Condie joins us to tell us what it's like for her and the rock climbing community to know that it is an Olympic sport for at least the 2020 Games and potentially further!Kyra talks about growing up and why she loves rock climbing so much. She also talks about how she got into the sport living in Minnesota with very little mountains to think of. Kyra describes the multiple disciplines of rock climbing, how the sport will look in the Olympics, and how her training has changed since she learned the Olympic format. Kyra recently won an event that granted her the opportunity to climb for Team USA and we break down the semantics of what exactly that means.Make sure to follow Kyra!https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie/https://www.facebook.com/KyraCondieClimbing/?ref=br_rshttps://twitter.com/KyraCondiehttps://www.kyracondie.com/Follow us too!https://www.instagram.com/ourathletes.us/https://twitter.com/Ourathletesusawww.ourathletes.us Please rate this show 5-stars so more people can hear these incredible stories!

SEASON THREE: The Road to 2020 Olympics w John Burgman Podcast Host: Dan Goodwin As most everyone has heard, there will be three disciplines featured as a 'Combined Sport' in the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Those three disciplines include speed climbing, bouldering, and lead. Unfortunately, most people are confused as to the format and the process as of which the athletes will be chosen. Until I started digging deeper, I naively assumed every country would be represented, but as I quickly discovered, that isn’t necessarily the case. In fact, there is no guarantee that United States or any other major country will be represented. How can that be when we have so many climbers climbing at such a high level? That’s a really good question. Well, you are about to find out. With me, I have John Burgman with Climbing magazine, who has been reporting on the World Cup Competition scene for as long as I can remember. So, I couldn’t think of anyone better to help us understand the format and how the athletes will be chosen. TOPICS COVERED: 1) How will athletes be chosen? 2)How many opportunities will athletes have to qualify? 3) How many athletes will be allowed to compete? 4) How many athletes per country and genre? 5) Does an athlete have to compete in all three disciplines? 6)How will the scores be computed? 7) How many Gold Medals will be awarded? 8) Who will be representing the USA Climbing Team? 9) What are their strengths and weaknesses? 10) Who will most likely make to the Olympics? USA CLIMBING TEAM Men's: Zach Galla Nathaniel Coleman Sean Bailey Colin Duffy Drew Ruana Women's: Kyra Condie Brooke Raboutou Natalia Grossman Ashima Shiraishi Margo Hayes

This past October in Minneapolis I had the opportunity to sit down and chat with one of the most exciting comp climbers to watch - recent Pan American Combined Champion Kyra Condie. We talk about coming up in a very testosterone driven climbing culture - one that has shaped much of how Kyra climbs. We discuss her spinal fusion surgery and how that does - or does not - limit her. And of course we get into training for the Olympics, and Kyra's recent switch to full time climbing and training.  You can find Kyra at https://www.kyracondie.com/ You can follow Kyra on instagram at https://www.instagram.com/kyra_condie You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. 

In this interview, I talk with Kyra Condie about her current training program, including her weekly schedule, her exact hangboard and campus board routines, how she does bouldering circuits, and her thoughts on the 2018 USAC Nationals comps.

Milo talks with Kyra Condie about her sport, what it is like to be a pro rock climber, and how she does not let physical challenges get in the way of her goals. She encourages kids to "get out there."