Podcasts about arm r seal

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hello Guys, Love the show so much great information. I have recently got into scroll sawing. I am a comic book fan and I want to start scrolling the comic book art that I love. As you may know comic book art is very colorful. My goal is to start getting enough exotic wood to try and cover as much color as I can. In the mean time I would like to start using stain to color the woods. Are you all aware of any stains that have a good color spectrum. Thanks Korey from Independence KY I am looking to build a shop building on my property. What is the minimum square footage you would recommend for a home hobbyist? I will have a miter saw, router table, table saw, and eventually a planer and dust collector. And of course a work bench with a saw vise. I have plenty of room on my property, so that isn't a limiting factor. My biggest concern is not spending money that I don't need to on a building that is larger than needed. What are some things you recommend that I plan for when building? Power outlet locations and qty, ceiling height, lighting type, etc.? Thanks in advance! Kyle Guys Questions: I know you guys have referenced putting shellac under water based finish so you can have the richer look in the wood but ease/quick timeline of water based. I typically use an airless sprayer to apply General Finishes High Performance. I have some projects with walnut that I would normally finish with Arm-R-Seal to get the rich walnut tone. Id like to try the shellac coat first and then High Performance on top. I was wondering what is your standard application practice when you do this. Do you apply shellac (by hand or spray) and then wait a few hours/a few days/a week? Thanks for the advice and looking to avoid any pitfalls in the process being that Ive never done it before.  Thanks and keep up the good work on the podcast. Pete from Uncarved Block Woodworks, Madison, WI Do you have any tips for glueing up mitered-corner boxes to ensure they are square/plumb, etc.?  I've had a hard time with this. Thanks David Vespoint Huys Questions: My local Rockler shut down and I found myself purchasing the Dark Half Tung oil from the real milk paint company at a steep discount. Never used the stuff but I've heard that dark tung oil can help give cherry a patina look without aging. I'm wondering if it can help walnut preserve its dark color over time? Tung oil is supposed to be a pretty durable finish on it own. Have you guys tried using it as part of an arm r seal mix? Thanks again for the help! Jose All of my furniture pieces seem to have glue creep on all the table tops and panels. I switched from using titebond pva to titebond hide glue thinking this would solve the problem. On some newer pieces I built with the hide glue, I can now slightly feel the glue seams after a few weeks. The tops all have biscuits for alignment as well. Could this be a matter of temperature and humidity change from my shop to my house? About 40% humidity in my shop through the use of a dehumidifier. Temperature ranged from in the 50s this past winter to now it's in the 80s. Would you sand the seam lightly with 0000 steel wool or very high grit sandpaper? And any tips for future builds to avoid this again? Thanks guys! Jeff

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: Hello guys, Love the podcast. Thank you for your time and expertise! Question on making drawer boxes and other situations where butt joinery is used. How much of a difference would it make if I do not use any glue and rely only on pocket screws / regular screws? Main reason I am asking about skipping glue is because I usually use 2 side prefinished plywood to make drawer boxes so unless I figure out how to remove the finish where the joints are, it will not really stick.  Follow up question. What's the rule of thumb on how to space pocket screws? Let's say I have a drawer box that's 12 inches high. How many  pocket screws would I put on each butt joint? Max Greddie Woodworks I'm building a very large display case for a museum, about 15 feet long and 4 feet high and 6 inches deep. Kind of like a giant shadow box. It will contain a canvas replica of the Shroud of Turin, with LED backlighting behind the shroud canvas and a ¼” glass front (2 sheets of glass with a seam in the middle). The back panel will be either 1/4" or 1/2" plywood. We will have legs under it to support the weight across the 15 foot length, as it will be very heavy once fully assembled on-site. Here's my question; is it realistic to plane, cut, and sand a 15 foot long 6/4 board, about 6 inches wide?   Am wondering if I could realistically handle such a board, and if so, would it remain flat and straight over time.   Or, would I be better off making two 7-1/2 foot long boards and somehow joining them together to make one 15 foot long board. If two boards, what's the best method for end-to-end joining of these boards to get a barely-visible joint and a perfectly straight assembly. Do I need to be concerned with sag in the middle if I have a plywood back panel? Mark Guys Questions: I have recently started using Arm-R-Seal and I am new to using finishes with long curing times. I have been prefinishing all my parts because I assume it's near impossible to get a nice finish after glue up. Is this correct? How long should I wait after applying the finish before glueing? Also, if the piece of furniture was for a customer, would you wait the full 30 days of cure time before delivery? Jeffrey Hughes I teach a beginning woodworking class at a High School. I will be receiving two Bambu Lab X1 3D printers for one of the Engineering classes that I teach as well. I know that 3D printers can be very useful for woodworking and was wondering what ideas you would have to share for helpful tools or accessories that could be made using the 3D printer? Also do you have a specific website where you go to find premade tools and accessories that is trustworthy? Thanks in advance for any information that you could provide. Scott Kirkman Huys Questions: Hey it's me again, I have a 10” Metabo contractor saw I use for my house projects and finer pieces. It's a quick and dirty saw that I can set up and knock down and roll into the corner. I love the wide table of it but it's starting to feel wobbly when making cuts. Thinking of building a box around it to have out all the time and catch dust and shavings. Maybe on wheels? I'm no contractor so maybe I should just invest in a cabinet saw… love to hear thoughts. Ian Hello, I am getting ready to build a box beam to wrap an exposed LVL beam in the great room of our vacation home.  It's a horizontal beam with about 2" protruding from a finished wall (drywall).   The span is about 14', and the beam is about 4 1/2" tall.  I will be using knotty pine to create a 3 sided box beam with mitereed corners.    My challenge is that I cannot built and transport 14' beam, so I need to build 2 7' beams. Each end of the beam will butt against a wall, so there isn't much room.   So my question for you all is what type of joinery would you use to seam the 2 beams together on-site? Thanks, and I appreciste what you all are doing for the woodworking community. John

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)Hi guys I'm in the market for a miter gauge for my table saw and really like the look of the Incra Miter 5000 but the cost over here in Australia is a bit on the high side ($700 plus postage). Ive started looking around at different manufacturers etc and the usual YouTube searching and I notice a lot of users using a miter gauge only as opposed to a sled with miter type options. Would you use a miter gauge only as opposed to a sled configuration. Thanks for the great podcast Geoff 2) I would like to make a assembly table top with dog holes just like the MFT basic. I already have an MFT table. Would it be possible to use my existing MFT table top as a template on a larger piece of 3/4 MDF? I was thinking of clamping it down somehow and pre drilling some holes and using my festool plunge router with a flush trim bit. Would this work and how would you do it with what kind of router bit? I see a lot of jigs made or bought online for this but if I already have a MFT table why not use it as a template - Anythony   Guy 1) Long-time podcast listener, thanks for the great content and helpful advice for woodworkers of all skill levels! I'm a few years into woodworking and have a 12 x 15 shop in my basement. No windows in the basement and my workshop is in the climate-controlled utility room with the finished basement just outside the workshop door. I make a variety of things such as boxes, crosses, shelves, trays, etc out of hardwoods, primarily walnut and curly maple. So far, my go-to finish has been a few coats of Shellac (Zinsser Sealcoat) finished with a coat of satin Arm-R-Seal. This finishing process can be a bit tedious, especially when making crosses and boxes that have lots of small crevices.  I'd love to settle on a finish that checks the following boxes: - Easy to apply - Isn't overly smelly, given my workshop location and lack of outside ventilation - Accentuates the beauty of the wood (e.g. highlights the figure in the curly maple, richness of color of the walnut). - Doesn't involve pre-finishing, if possible, as I'm lazy and often have some sanding and clean-up work to do after assembly. - Is quick from start to finish, as my workshop time is limited with 3 young kids and I want to spend as much of the shop time as possible making sawdust, not applying finish. - Easy to clean up. For example, I'd love to avoid spending 30 minutes cleaning a spray gun after using it. Also, I don't have a ton of space due to my Sawstop PCS 36" saw, router table, planer, drill press, etc. Should I keep with Shellac and Arm-R-Seal, or should I look at a spray option? And if a spray option, should I do an actual sprayer or buy rattle cans of finish? I'm open to recommendations. Thanks! Brian 2) Being 69 years old now, I find my reflexes, muscle control, eyesight etc. aren't quite as good as they used to be. Would it be, in your opinion, foolish to go to a SawStop table saw for the increased safety, when my Powermatic PM 2000 works fine. I realize there are other sources of hazards in the shop, but reducing one at the table saw is being considered. Thanks for the great podcast! Tim in North Carolina   Huy 1)Hi Guy, Huy, and Sean, love the podcast, I learn so much every episode. After only a year of woodworking, I've decided it's time to get my shop better organized. I'm going to start making a lumber cart, clamp racks, flip top tool stand, various storage cabinets, assembly table, etc. Most designs for these kinds of things call for plywood. But with plywood prices through the roof, I don't want to spend a ton of money on each thing. MDF prices are still high but seem a bit more reasonable. How can I determine when MDF can be substituted for plywood? And do you have any other tips for how to make shop furniture on the cheap with today's prices? Thanks, Matthew 2) Hey Guys, love your podcast; it's one of the few woodworking podcasts out there that actually pushed me to be a better woodworker. Keep it coming. My question is this: I'm considering purchasing a dust extractor. I currently don't any any Festool products, but I am considering the new Festool C15 dust extractor. (My budget doesn't allow for the high prices of the other units with Bluetooth and since I dont own any other Festool products, I don't see a reason to have any of the other units, but maybe someday). My current set up for my orbital sander, biscuit jointer, etc is a 4 gallon 5hp Dewalt shop vac with 90 CFM. I also have the vac and tools plugged into an I-socket auto switch which allows the vac to automatically turn on/off when I run my tools. I find that this set up does really well. With a price tag at $350, do you think it's worth it in my situation to upgrade to a C15? What additional benefits do I gain from it that I don't already have? - Scott  

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) Do you sand inside surfaces before or after gluing dovetailed parts together? Sanding before = potentially changing the fit and sanding after = having to sand inside corners. TheRoaringWoodwork 2) Do you buy your hide glue or make it yourself? Leather by Dragonfly 3) Would you guys ever want to build a wooden bathtub? Keith   Guy 1) So I’m new to veneering. I finally purchased a vacuum pump and bag. I love the fact that you can arrange veneer  into different orientations to get the look that you desire. I want to make a modern credenza and want the grain to run in the same direction and match from the vertical carcass pieces to the horizontal carcass pieces. What’s the best method to ensure grain matches. Robert Couch 2) I recently got an old school desk and am planning to repair and refinish it so that my kids can use it. I'm starting to think about what kind of finish to use since it will obviously be getting some abuse, but I don't know a lot about finishes. I've just kept it simple and have always used Arm-R-Seal for my projects so far. I know finishes is a huge topic, but could you talk a bit about if certain kinds of finishes are better for pieces that you know will get abuse (e.g. desk, table) versus projects that are more accent pieces? Is it simply a matter of applying more coats to get a more durable finish or are certain types of finishes really better? Lastly, does the sheen (satin vs glossy) make a difference? Maybe nicks and dings wouldn't show as much with a satin sheen? Thanks in advance and keep up the great work. -Billy   Huy 1) After reading Bill Pentz’s website, my eyes have been opened as to the proper way of setting up a dust collection system. I’d like to run a 6” main run coming directly from my Oneida dust collector inlet. Pentz’s suggests maintaining the duct sizing and reducing right up until the tool. He also suggests keeping the ports as large as possible as well. However, almost all of my tools have a 4” port. For the bandsaw, it makes sense to have 4” ports since there are two of them (one right under the lower roller bearing and one in the lower cabinet). However, my table saw only has one 4” port. Wouldn’t it be better to increase the port size to 6” to get more airflow? Do you think it would be worth increasing the port size to 6”? For context, I have a SawStop 1.5hp PCS. Moser Woodcraft 2) I’m very new to woodworking. I have a modern chair piece that I’d like to build with lots of angles. I have it modelled out in SketchUp and everything looks great. However, when I start cutting the test pieces on the miter saw or on the table saw with a miter gauge, I can’t get the angles just right and I end up with small gaps. Everything will be joined with floating tenons. Are there any techniques or methods that might solve my gappy joint problem? All.Woodworking

This episode of Shop Talk Live is sponsored by Audible. Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book. 04:50 - Question 1:  I have a 400/1000 grit combination diamond stone, a high quality honing guide, and a leather strop. People always talk about removing the burr on the back of the blade after sharpening. I try to do that, but it seems to just bend back around and doesn't come off. I end up with a tiny sliver of iron on the end of my blade which is not straight and that I can bend with my finger. Why is this happening, what am I doing wrong? -Theo   11:00 - Question 2: Is there a maximum board width you are comfortable gluing up for a table top? I've heard that wider boards that are ripped down somewhat are more stable in the long run. I'm using some hickory for my top, and the boards will be around 10" wide following stock prep. I'd prefer not to rip them down. -Eric 16:45 - All Time Favorite Tool of All Time... for this week: Mike - Clamping cauls Mike Pekovich: Arts and Crafts on Display Ian Kirby: Gluing Up Michael Fortune: How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups Ben - Lie Nielsen - Boggs curved spokeshave   37:50 - Question 3: I recently made my first shooting board and modeled it after Mike’s shooting board with the sliding speed square for miters. My fence is dead square, checked with multiple hardware store squares but my cuts have yet to yield a square result. The consistent result is a cut that is high on the fence side of the board. After squaring and re-squaring many times I am at a loss. What am I doing wrong? -Wes Mike Pekovich: 6 Essential Bench Jigs Video: Mike Pekovich’s Go-To Work Holding Jigs 46:20 - Ben's Audible recomendation: Why We Make Things and Why It Matters: The Education of a Craftsman By Peter Korn Narrated by: Trabber Burns Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book. 52:10 - Question 4: A few months ago, I made a small side table out of cherry for my wife.  The table came out great but I’ve noticed in the past weeks that the glue line has turned into an obnoxious orange color.  The table has sat in indirect sunlight since finished.  The dowels have a “starburst” effect of glue around them and the glue line between the boards in the panel are now clearly visible.  I was wondering if you’d ever experienced this.  I had thought I’d sanded enough to remove any residual glue but perhaps not.  Now that the project has been finished with Arm-R-Seal, would it work to sand off the finish to remove the glue marks and then re-finish it?  In the end, I’d like to make this project look great again.  Any thoughts would be most helpful.  Thanks for your time.  - Daniel 56:00 - All Time Favorite Technique of All Time... for this week Ben - Using a finder of a glove to seal your squeeze bottle of finish Mike - Breaking up a complicated glue up into multiple parts 1:02:30 - Question 5: When sharpening chisels, do you put a micro bevel on them or just a standard 25 degree?   -Richard

This episode of Shop Talk Live is sponsored by Audible. Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book. 04:50 - Question 1:  I have a 400/1000 grit combination diamond stone, a high quality honing guide, and a leather strop. People always talk about removing the burr on the back of the blade after sharpening. I try to do that, but it seems to just bend back around and doesn't come off. I end up with a tiny sliver of iron on the end of my blade which is not straight and that I can bend with my finger. Why is this happening, what am I doing wrong? -Theo   11:00 - Question 2: Is there a maximum board width you are comfortable gluing up for a table top? I've heard that wider boards that are ripped down somewhat are more stable in the long run. I'm using some hickory for my top, and the boards will be around 10" wide following stock prep. I'd prefer not to rip them down. -Eric 16:45 - All Time Favorite Tool of All Time... for this week: Mike - Clamping cauls Mike Pekovich: Arts and Crafts on Display Ian Kirby: Gluing Up Michael Fortune: How to Tame Tricky Glue-Ups Ben - Lie Nielsen - Boggs curved spokeshave   37:50 - Question 3: I recently made my first shooting board and modeled it after Mike’s shooting board with the sliding speed square for miters. My fence is dead square, checked with multiple hardware store squares but my cuts have yet to yield a square result. The consistent result is a cut that is high on the fence side of the board. After squaring and re-squaring many times I am at a loss. What am I doing wrong? -Wes Mike Pekovich: 6 Essential Bench Jigs Video: Mike Pekovich’s Go-To Work Holding Jigs 46:20 - Ben's Audible recomendation: Why We Make Things and Why It Matters: The Education of a Craftsman By Peter Korn Narrated by: Trabber Burns Head over to Audible.com/ShopTalkLive to get a free audio book. 52:10 - Question 4: A few months ago, I made a small side table out of cherry for my wife.  The table came out great but I’ve noticed in the past weeks that the glue line has turned into an obnoxious orange color.  The table has sat in indirect sunlight since finished.  The dowels have a “starburst” effect of glue around them and the glue line between the boards in the panel are now clearly visible.  I was wondering if you’d ever experienced this.  I had thought I’d sanded enough to remove any residual glue but perhaps not.  Now that the project has been finished with Arm-R-Seal, would it work to sand off the finish to remove the glue marks and then re-finish it?  In the end, I’d like to make this project look great again.  Any thoughts would be most helpful.  Thanks for your time.  - Daniel 56:00 - All Time Favorite Technique of All Time... for this week Ben - Using a finder of a glove to seal your squeeze bottle of finish Mike - Breaking up a complicated glue up into multiple parts 1:02:30 - Question 5: When sharpening chisels, do you put a micro bevel on them or just a standard 25 degree?   -Richard

In today's episode we get a look at the finished Kid's Maple Bookcase. When I originally recorded the footage I was literally minutes away from the clients picking it up, so I may have skipped over some details you'd like to know more about. But I did cover as many of the final details as I could. The finish I chose for the bookcase was a combination of Amber Shellac to help match the color of existing pieces the client had already, and then a final top coat of Water based Arm-R-Seal by General Finishes. I could have just gone with the Amber Shellac alone, but I really wanted this project to stand up to the wear and tear it'll probably endure over the years. If you have any questions from today's episode or any from the first 3 episodes of this series. Don't hesitate to drop me a line "EMAIL ME". Some of you already have, and I'll be addressing those questions in next week's episode where we'll devote the entire episode to answering those questions.

Responsible wood usage, green mineral spirits, design for strength, fixing a hand-cut mortise, Arm-R-Seal alternatives, riving knives, carving tools, RAS, cross-cut sleds, steel hardness, butcher block finish, elmers glue, and sprung joints.

Circular saw blades, liability insurance, cutting face frames without big tools, upgrading your chisels, planing thin stock, choosing a shop space, creating stopped dados with hand tools, and applying Arm-R-Seal over newly stained wood.