Podcasts about sawstop

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions:  What are the the most useful 3d prints for a woodworking shop.  I often print out small pattern templates and fixtures for hole placement.  Even storage solutions for various tools etc...  what are your top suggestions? Josh Hi, let's talk about working with laminated plywood.  I just picked up about 25 sheets of 3/4”x 22”x6'  birch plywood that has Formica laminated on both sides from the free pile of a high volume cabinet shop. I want to encourage everyone to find local cabinet or mill work shops  in your area and drive by them often! I do on my commute to and from work.  What kind of design/construction considerations would you make when building cabinets with drawers for my garage using only this 3/4” plywood? It will be for my garage.  I know it's common to make drawers using thinner plywood but I'm not trying to spend money if I have to.   how would you finish the edges? I'm going to make a blanket chest next, The laminate is a fancy textured walnut wood grain that actually looks pretty good. I currently don't have a shop but have some hand tools and hand power tools like a router,  circular saw with track, and a lot of imagination! With the help from your podcast I just recently purchased a biscuit jointer and a large (rather intimidating) 45 degree chamfer router bit. Haywood Guys Questions: Hi Guys, I've been listening to your podcast since the beginning and it's by far the best. There's not even a close second. My question is: I want to make shop sawn veneer. I have a band saw with 11” cut capacity, grizzly 8” jointer, a dewalt 735 thickness planner with a Byrd Shelix helical cutter head, but I don't have a drum sander. I would like to end up with 1/16”  cherry veneer that is 10” wide, but I'm not sure about the process to make it. Would the thickness planer be too aggressive to remove the bandsaw marks or would I need to purchase a drum sander?  Also, after cutting a piece of veneer from the stock, do I need to reflatten the stock before cutting another piece of veneer. In general, I guess what I'm asking is given the set of tools above, how would you go about making veneer? Mike I am building a trestle table out of African Mahogany, more specifically Khaya. I am using 8/4 for the top and 12/4 for the legs. It is going to live on a jalousy window sun room that is not climate controlled in the state of Florida. What finishes do you guys recommend to use to help preventwood movement or warping over time, or is that just going to happen. David Huy's Questions: Hello Gents, This is a bit of a long winded question regarding aftermarket sliders for the table saw and how to best use them. I recently purchased an old Excalibur sliding table from my saw.  This is an older model but from my understanding is almost identical to the current SawStop sliders, as SawStop took over the old Excalibur models (maybe this is incorrect or you have more insight?).  I mounted the slider to the extension table on the left so I get the full size of the TS top and the slider fence is long enough to reach all the way to the blade.  I figured that this way I get the best of both worlds, and I do have the space for it. My purpose for the slider was to help break down sheet goods, manage angled cuts on larger pieces, and to help cut miters on larger case panels.  I've made a few cases in the past with mitered corners and running a long case panel on the TS to cut the miters is a bit of a pain.  I was hoping that the slider would simplify that process as it would allow the long panel to move over the table smoothly while held square to the blade. Here is the kicker, the slider mounts on the left of the saw which is the direction that the blade tilts.  In my mind, this creates a problem as I have to run the panel up-side-down, under the tilted blade, and the offcut would now be dropping on top of the blade where it will create a kickback situation.  In general, I wouldn't run the piece "under" the blade when using a rip fence as it is trapped, but with the slider that's not really true.  Seems problematic for the offcut but gives more accuracy and control on an otherwise unwieldy piece and may be worth rolling the dice.  I figure that with the slider I have plenty of space to stand out of the firing line when that offcut goes flying, but it is probably smarter to avoid the situation in the first place....  What are your thoughts? How are others handling miters with a slider?  It seems most folks in North America have them mounted on the left, and most of the saws tilt to that side. Bojan Hey guys I've been listening to lots of episodes of the podcast lately and find it very helpful me being a beginner. This will be a long one but here is the situation, I'm not far from Indianapolis so a couple of you understand the weather. Earlier this year I cut down a couple of trees from a family property before it got demolished for development. Trees were run through a local saw mill and kiln dried for me. When I picked them up from the local guys I brought the stack back and put it in a barn on the family farm. The barn is generally shut up but it is not conditioned. I do all my wood working in my basement at home that is conditioned. I'm getting ready to buy a used 8” jointer to help me handle all these boards. I will not be carrying a large jointer into the basement to do the work it will be at the farm where the wood is stored. Question is, with an unconditioned barn do you think it will be a problem to joint a few boards there, bring them back to the basement Woodshop and let them acclimate for a few weeks before proceeding to plane/cut up for projects? Would it be better to joint just a couple at a time as I'm going to need them or would jointing most of the boards and storing them unconditioned during the year and moving them to the Woodshop as needed be ok? Thanks for the podcast and all the info you guys provide. I've learned multiple things from you guys already and hope to continue learning more. Drew

And they're off! Jason whoops it up at the Kentucky Derby and the Ford truck plant with his best gal and Keith sets off his SawStop...again.Be sure to check out Bits & Bits at www.bitsbits.com and use coupon code MORSELS15 to save 15% on your order of router and/or CNC bits. Be sure to hit up Katz-Moses Tools at www.KMTools.com - cool tools at a fair price. If it's on their website, it's in Jonathan's apron. www.kmtools.com **And check out the new Katz Moses aluminum channel French Cleat system with some bad azz 3D printed accessories that lock in place!! Say whaaaa?!?!?**WTB Woodworking has a new giveaway that includes over $100 in MagSwitch gear! The link for the giveaway will be: https://www.wtbwoodworking.com/giveaway , so go sign up and win yourself some sweet kit! This giveaway is live from 4/21/25 to 6/21/25. **Check out WTB Woodworking new store at 390 Pike Road, Unit 2, Huntingdon Valley, PA for lumber, slabs, woodworking tools and MORE!! Or shop online and earn yourself some Burkell bucks for every dollar you spend!Help us support Grit-Grip!! A revolutionary new breed of double-sided sanding sponges that we both LOVE! Check it out at https://grit-grip.com/ and use code "shopsounds" at checkout to get a free sanding block!The Bourbon Blade: https://www.bourbonmoth.com/shop/p/the-bourbon-blade-original-pocket-chiselIf you'd like to support us on Patreon and have access to our irreverent aftershow, you can sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/shopsoundspodcastYou can find us on Instagram, Youtube, Facebook and TikTok (maybe): Bourbon Moth Woodworking and Keith Johnson Woodworking

Robin Clevett talks about accidents and resulting injuries that can be commonplace in the trade. Robin has Micheal Davies from Saw Stop drop in to share some surprising stats and discuss safety. Robin also talks with Carpenter Karlen Offen about some of the more dangerous elements of his work outdoors and Woodworker, Jacob Bell joins to discuss safety and injuries sustained using hand tools and power tools 

This Episodes Questions: Brians Questions: I'm in the market to upgrade to a cabinet saw that I want to last for a long time. I've been using a Powermatic 64A contractors saw for the past two years that I bought used and have done my best to tune up. That saw still has its flaws though, and it's time to move on. I'm setting a budget of roughly $4000. I want a new saw with a 3 HP motor. 30" rip capacity is enough for me, as I can break down sheet goods using other methods, it will also fit better in my shop.  I'm currently considering the Powermatic 2000B or the Sawstop 3 HP cabinet saw. Which one would you choose, and why? What other models would you consider? Love the podcast! Thanks for your advice! Mike K. Hey guys! I've recently started scroll saw portraits (ex. Newton Makes Art or Scrollsaw Scribbler). So far I've stuck mainly to using pre-milled 1/4” stock, but I would like to add some dimension to the pieces and get even thinner stock, down to 3/16” or 1/8”. I recently added a planer to the shop and was thinking of taping stock to an MDF board to thickness the stock further. So my questions, first do you think this is safe? I have fears going this thin may lead to things getting ripped apart on the planer. Second, is there any other ways you'd recommend getting boards this thin? PS I do not have a drum sander to help with that last bit of flattening. -Trevor Guys Questions: I am a relatively new woodworker. Still learning skills, techniques, and patience with woodworking. Last year I made a pair of bar stools using cherry wood. It was my first real project of any significance, and overall I am really proud of how they turned out and how they have been holding up to daily use. This is a two part question because these are the two issues I struggled with the most during the build. 1. I made the legs of the stools splayed, and raked. I used blind mortise and tenon joinery to attach the rails to the legs. Since the legs were splayed and raked, I had to cut my mortise and tenons joint on an angle to accommodate the legs not being vertical. I used a forsner bit on the drill press and angled the table to roughly the proper angle, then used a chisel to square the holes. But I really struggled to do this accurately, especially when using the chisel to square the angled hole. What advice would you give to get precise angles, and to keep that angle while chiseling the holes square? Part 2. What would you suggest for attaching the seat to the base of the stool? I pre drilled holes into the bottom on the seat  and used screws from underneath. You can't see them unless you foil the stool upside down. but I felt like a bit of a hack doing that and would have preferred to use some sort of joinery instead of screws. Thanks again for providing the woodworking community with your knowledge and for the great entertainment. Braden Hey Gents! Canadian listener here, I found your podcast about a week ago and i have been listening every day now. Thanks for the content.  I love the look of pure oil finishes like tung oil but I can't handle how long it takes to dry. I have heard you can thin it to help. Is this something you guys do from time to time and if so what do you thin with / what ratio? Tyler    Huys Questions:    Hey Guys, As I'm working on building a new shop this summer. I'm getting a little closer to figuring out dust collection for the big machines. I ended up putting two 6” runs in the slab. But I'm stuck on which DC types work best. I built a large storage shed off the back of the shop that is walled off and the plan is to store the DC, lumber , air compressor, etc. I know a cyclone with a hepa filter is the gold standard in removing fine dust, which makes sense if the DC is inside the conditioned shop. But I already have a dual bag setup from Shop fox W1687 (3hp DC with separater and bag filters). I think this setup may get better  air movement than the cyclone. And since it's housed “outside” of the shop I think the  filter requirements could be reduced. Shop specs: 470 sq, all the normal machines to process rough lumber. Jesse Hello from Australia! I've been an enthusiastic hobbyist woodworker for about 18 months. I use mostly hand tools except a budget circular saw, which I hate, and I just got a 12 inch bandsaw, which I love. So far I've build a joiners bench, several planes, including a 52 degree smoother from a broken Stanley no.3. And I'm most of the way through a small bookshelf made from Tasmanian oak. As you know a lot of Australian wood is hard and can be challenging to work with. My next wood will be Austrian blackwood, which is moderately hard and has a high silica content. But it is also filled with glow and once oiled looks amazing. I also have some reclaimed floorboards which are some kind of gum tree. I would like to use them at some point but the boards are determined to remain in their current form. They are difficult to work with and if my no.5 plane is not super sharp it will just skip over the wood. Can you share any tips and knowledge on working with hard woods? Thanks for the show, I've learnt a lot from it Kind regards Jeremy

This Episode's Questions: Brians Questions: Hey guys, I am building an arts and crafts style entryway table that is roughly modeled after a Stickley magazine stand. It will have an upper “shelf” that is surrounded on three side by the rails or stretchers on the side and back and is open on the front. The bottom “shelf” is identical. These two shelves are seated into the four legs. The front legs have a full depth groove cut into them that the shelf seats into and the rear legs have a cutout on the inside corner for the rear shelf support. I will include a link at the bottom showing the piece that I modeled my table after. The original is smaller and has three shelves, mine will only have two and will have spindles between the rear top and bottom stretchers as well. However, the way the shelves are attached will be the same. My question is this: How can I attach the shelves to the front and rear legs without causing issues with wood movement? The shelves will be somewhere in the 13-14” deep range. Gluing the shelf to the rear legs and letting the shelf slide in the groove in the front legs would work but there is no front rail or stretcher connecting the two front legs so I don't think that works. Can I glue the shelf to all four legs? Alternatively I suppose I could put a small low profile stretcher under the shelf connecting the two front legs, but I don't think it exists on the original and I'd prefer not to if I don't have to. Please feel free to contact me to clarify anything if I didn't explain well enough. Kellen I think the thing I struggle with the most in building furniture is laying out where each part is going to come from on the rough boards. All the wood I've bought so far was air dryed from Facebook marketplace, so maybe that has made it harder since the boards are never perfectly straight. I always use straight grain sections for the legs and I try to also use straight grain for any aprons, rails and stiles. This leaves alot of waste. If I have a 8" board and I use say 2.5" from each edge of straight grain, what do you do with the leftover center section that is just cathedrals? When do you not use straight grain on these types of parts? Any other advise on laying out parts on the rough boards? Thanks again for answering my questions and the best podcast. Jeff Guys Questions: Hey Guys, I love your show! I usually listen on my commute or while I'm working in the shop. I'm building a hayrake table out of walnut and haven't decided on the finish. I'm looking for something durable, easy to wipe clean (I have kids), and not super glossy.  Any suggestions on what to use and how to apply it? Thank you for all the great tips! Ezra Thank you for your fantastic podcast! I really appreciate how accessible and practical you make woodworking for both beginners and experts alike. I've been woodworking for about two years now, mostly building cutting boards, boxes, gifts and simple furniture out of basic hardwoods. I've also dabbled in making furniture with plywood, such as a bedside table for my 11-year-old. I'm fortunate to be a member of a shared woodworking shop at a local arts and crafts society, which is well-equipped with power tools including a SawStop cabinet saw. Our shop uses a shared set of well-worn Freud blades which get pretty beat up, but I've had the privilege of using nicer table saw blades loaned to me by the shop keeper, who has been incredibly supportive as I develop my skills. This brings me to my question: I am ready to purchase my own table saw blades and have zoomed in on CMT as a brand for their value. I'm considering three blades: an 80-tooth Hi-ATB crosscut, a 24-tooth flat top grind ripping blade, and a 50-tooth combination blade with ATB and one TCG tooth, all in full kerf. My research suggests that the main arguments for thin kerf blades are that they are easier on low power table saws and produce less waste. Since I have access to a SawStop cabinet saw, I don't need blades suited for low power saws, and I'm not sure the reduced waste is worth the trade-offs. Are there other advantages or reasons I should consider a thin kerf blade? It seems that full kerf blades offer more stability and cleaner cuts, and as I build my skills, my expectations for precision are increasing. What are your thoughts on kerf size and blade choice for someone in my situation? Thanks for your advice, and keep up the great work! Stuart Huys Questions: Hey gents, I'm getting into a kitchen remodel and will be building all the cabinets myself because I'm a glutton for punishment. I'm trying to find a white (tintable base) finish, but am a little overwhelmed by all the options. It for sure needs to be water based, and I have an Airless system as well as a 2-stage HVLP for application. Can you recommend any product for this purpose? I've been experimenting with Target Coatings water based pigmented lacquer (EM6500wp) with their CL100 cross-linker and was just "ok" with the results. I tried spraying it with the HVLP but I'm thinking the finish was too thick to properly atomize with a 2-stage turbine, so maybe I need to shoot it with the Airless? I'm not super keen on any finish with a real limited pot life, since I'll be doing this on the nights and weekends, and feel like that would lead to a significant amount of waste. Thanks in advance for the insight! Travis Hello guys, I have been a long time listener and I really appreciate all of the knowledge that you guys share with the woodworking community. I have seen the Critter Siphon Gun advertised in the Lee Valley catalog and watched a few videos about it on YouTube. Have you had any experience with the Critter Siphon Gun and how does it compare to other options like HVLP sprayers? Thanks, Daniel

We're back! And as vanilla as ever! In this week's show, Keith goes into intimate detail on his cabinet install from hell, while Jason talks about his upcoming Sawstop expose video and what he eff'd up in his laundry room build.If you'd like to support us on Patreon and have access to our irreverent aftershow, you can sign up here: https://www.patreon.com/shopsoundspodcastYou can find us on Instagram, Youtube, Facebook and Tiktok : @bourbonmoth and @kjsawdustAnd don't forget to check out Bits & Bits at www.bitsbits.com and use coupon code MORSELS15 to save 15%Be sure to hit up Katz-Moses Tools at www.KMTools.com - cool tools at a fair price. If it's on their website, it's in Jonathan's apron.Check out the new JIG SQUARE - it's amazing! Wanna feel good about yourself?? Check out Katz-Moses Woodworkers with Disabilities Fund at https://kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity

The guys talk about staying safe in the shop, how to stay safe, wanting to look out to keep you safe, and developing good shop habits.  They finish the episode by sharing some of their horror of unfortunate shop accidents; the end gets gruesome, so you've been warned! Hosted by Brian Benham https://www.benhamdesignconcepts.com/custom-furniture-denver-colorado/ Brian On Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/benham_design/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCXO8f1IIliMKKlu5PgSpodQ   Greg Porter https://skyscraperguitars.com/ Greg On Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gregsgaragekc/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/SkyscraperGuitars  YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/GregsGarage Show Notes on Shop Saftey Tips Don't force it, or bad things will happen Complacency is the root of many shop safety issues Take breaks when doing repetitive tasks so your mind doesn't wander. A riving knife will help prevent kickback of large and small parts. The guys don't think a SawStop will make you complacent.  You adjust to your surroundings, no matter what the tool is, so you make yourself complacent. Can you afford to lose a finger? Don't cut your nose off to spite your face. Don't reach across the blade, and remember to turn it off when not using it. Keeping control of the waste on a CNC machine is just as important as control over the part. The two most important rules of making are to keep your tools sharp and approach your work with finesse. Work holding, work holding, work holding.    

Episode 193Workbench Con 2024 RECAPSign up for Patreon for Early access, and special Patreon-only content:https://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast (https://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast)In Maker News

This Episode's Questions Guy's Questions Hey, fellas. Great show. I've been listening for a couple of years, and have really elevated my game based on tips from y'all. Guy, thanks for the Incra TS/LS videos. I got the combo version when I moved my router table to the wing of my Sawstop. I really love it. I have a follow up question from the Feb 24 edition: Guy, you were pretty emphatic on your answer regarding connecting 2 Festool rails. I'm curious to know if your opinion was formed on the original style or the new version? If the former, have you had a chance to play with the new ones. I replaced my old set with the self-adjusting version and they seem rock-solid to me. I leave a small gap between the rails in case the rails aren't exactly 90 degrees. I'm also careful when moving the joined rail from one sheet to another that I don't torque the joint. Just wondering which version your judgement was associate with? Pat Engel Hi guys! My name is Elisa and I'm new to woodworking. I have a few fairly straightforward projects under my belt including a crate topper to go on top of my dog's crate, a few blanket ladders, and a mobile workbench with a spot for my Ryobi 8 1/4 table saw. I'm working on box joints right now. I've watched a ton of videos and made a lot of sawdust trying to make a jig and have been unsuccessful. I'm using a single blade with a kerf of .0665 in but I can measure the blade and make several cuts and not get the same measurement between them all, so there's one problem. I'm trying to set the spacing up to be 1/2 inch but I can't seem to get it right. The distance I'm off is small but bringing my pin closer or further from the blade seems to change the width of the pins and the slots and I can't see a correlation between the changes that would help me figure out how to correct it. In addition to the Ryobi saw, I have been using a sled I made, digital calipers, clamps, a set of steel thickness gauges. I'm using a variety of test piece's including 3/4 in plywood, 3/8 and 1/2 inch S4S poplar and pine. If it helps to know, I have a miter saw, jig saw, a trim router, a regular size router, cordless drill and driver and basic hand tools. I'd appreciate any help you can offer and if you can recommend some really good YouTube videos! Thanks! Elisa Gonzales Hello all. I have a veneering question. I want to wrap a elliptical cylinder with walnut veneer. It measures 18” inches long and 16” tall with end radiuses that are 4” round.  The cylinder is made with stacked mdf each layer is cut in the elliptical shape and stacked to my desired height. I don't have a vacuum press.  mdf is notorious for absorbing solvents and water. I've ruled out PSA backed veneer since this will be adhered to the cut edges of mdf and most likely would peel away. I am thinking maybe 2 coats of solvent based contact cement on the mdf and one coat on the veneer.  I need an adhesive that will hold those radial ends. Do you think contact cement will be strong enough and if so good recomm ndations?  Also should I seal the mdf  before applying the adhesive?  Maybe with shellac or WB poly. I'd say lacquer but concerned the solvent in the cement would have a negative effect on the lacquer seal coat.  Veneer hammer? Jeff (Maker) Huy's Questions: Gentlemen-  Sorry to not have rapped at ya in a while, winter is for snowboarding, and I tend to loose the plot in the shop. But whilst schussing down the slopes, I have been contemplating spring projects, namely, a bridge for my stream/river. The "slash" is because it is usually a stream, but two or three times a year gets very rowdy; the last time it washed the existing 16' long bridge off its moorings 90º, so it now sits parallel to the stream instead of across it. This bridge was made of pressure treated 2x12's, 4' wide, heavy, and chained to pins in boulders, so the water has some force when she's angry.  Instead of trying to lever and pulley the bridge back into place, let's build a new one. You guys know I love black locust and it's perfect for something like this with water and ground contact outside. But I want to get fancy, do an arch (which will also help with the bridge-washing-out issue). For something of this size how would you go about creating the curve? It needs to be at least 16' long (flat length, arch will rise probably 2' on a 20' radius) so steam bending is out. Would you glue up a "panel" of 2x material and then cut the curves out of it (or maybe even just use one big slab), or make a big form and bent laminations? I figure I need to make 2 of these curved beams for the sides of the bridge, and I probably won't paint it, just one more thing to keep up with.  This is one time where I probably won't have already done the thing I am asking about by the time I hear your answer, so I wait with bated breath. @figurawoodwork out. Tom Figgity-Figura  Good morning from Okinawa, Japan This one is for Guy mainly I think but hey open game on for Huy or Sean to wiegh in on things. First Japan is not great on space. My shop is large and very disorganized. I run a side business making some regular wood working projects but mainly custom military plaques usign the 2.5 D carving made possible by the yeti and shapeoko cnc. Almost went full time but my own disorginzation, project management, and efficency made things difficult. I havet really been set up to best handle slabs of local woods that I started useing mainly in my prjects. slab milling to directional lumber shop layout spot one 10 by 12 tin can shed yeti smart bench 4x8 cnc spot two (next to the shed) Kreg bench 44x64 table holding a Shapeoko XXL 12 ft miter station (6/8 ft for miter last part open for bench sanders and grinders.) Router table (wood peckers premium) Dewalt 745 table saw on a small cart 12 x 20 co2 laser mounted on a cart (36 x 28 cart) questions I am trying to save space and be more efficent. Have a chance to pick up a used Grizzly 10 inch table saw and new Laguna 14BX (I am 6'5 and i remember Guy saying the saw is low. but its the best band saw I can find out here) Most of my work is taking slabs and turning them into lumber for projects. Guy mentioned he would give up a table saw before a band saw. I can only find a laguana 14 BX in my area from a local online retailer which has a flesmy feence. So would anyone pass the table saw for geting more shop space or buy both and make it work? second question, (using google chrome it will translate the pages to english) Kerv https://www.off.co.jp/category/A02B10/T_3114.html Laguna https://www.off.co.jp/category/A02B10/T_3820.html Otoro https://www.off.co.jp/category/A02B10/AA2014.html These band saws do not have a solid fence clamping to both sides of the table for better resawing and straight cuts. Is there a after market feence that could be used, similar to the incra fence Guy pointed out in the recent episode? future plans tool buying. Would include a 100 watt co2 laser with 24 by 36 working space(foot print roughly 64 by 48 inches). Selling the old co2 laser and shapeoko to make room, moving the 4 x 8 cnc to the outside for keeping the shed a clean engraving and finishing area. Tried to support the show but your button is not working :( Hey Guys, Every so often I have a great excuse to buy a new tool (usually a valid reason for my wife). What tool(s) have you bought that you found more or less useful than you anticipated? Thanks Chuck Lovelady  

In this episode, Mark has to visit a lumber provider, the horror. Bruce trips a SawStop brake. Drew puts up Christmas lights. Plus a ton more! This episode is sponsored by OneFinity CNC! We have partnered with them and would love it if you would go to their website and check them out: https://www.onefinitycnc.com/  (we don't have a coupon code at this time, but if you're able to mention that we sent you, it helps!) Become a patron of the show! http://patreon.com/webuiltathing OUR TOP PATREON SUPPORTERS:-Tom's Woodwork -Tim Morrill -Scott @ Dad It Yourself DIY: http://bit.ly/3vcuqmv -Brent Jarvis: https://bit.ly/2OJL7EV -Chris Simonton -Maddux Woodworks YT: http://bit.ly/3chHe2p -Byrom's Custom Woodworks -Ray Jolliff -Ryder Clark -Deo Gloria Woodworks (Matthew Allen) https://www.instagram.com/deogloriawoodworks/ -Henry Lootens (@Manfaritawood) -Kris -Ben Wilker with Wilker's Woodcraft -Camp27 -Bruce Clark -Matt @ Wackey Worx -Brad Hoff -Tommy Trease -Will White -Cody Elkins (maker of the Jenny bit) -Monkey Business Woodworks Support our sponsors: MagSwitch: https://mag-tools.com -use code "WBAT" for 10% off SurfPrep: https://www.surfprepsanding.com/?aff=48  -use code "BLACKFRIDAY2023" for 15% off & "CYBERMONDAY2023" for 15% off Bits & Bits: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Starbond: use code "BRUCEAULRICH15" for 15% off Rotoboss: "GUNFLINT" Merlin Moisture Meters: Automatic discount when you checkout on Black Friday: https://www.merlin-humidification.com/wood-moisture-meters Bidwell Wood & Iron/Atomic Finishes: "BRUCEAULRICH" for 10% off Arbortech Carving Tools: "BRUCEAULRICH" for 10% off. (https://arbortechtools.idevaffiliate.com/127.html) We Built A Thing T-shirts! We have two designs to choose from! (You can get one of these as a reward at certain levels of support) https://amzn.to/2GP04jf  https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 ETSY SHOPS: Bruce: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BruceAUlrich?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=942512486 Drew: https://www.etsy.com/shop/FishersShopOnline?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=893150766 Mark: https://www.etsy.com/shop/GunflintDesigns?ref=search_shop_redirect Bruce's most recent video: https://youtu.be/T90cTjs5ba8?si=vql5ROkbZCSs5QZA Drew's most recent video: https://youtu.be/yRZdyQZlheI?si=ExNTAGHYOKue_sqc Mark's most recent video: https://youtu.be/ZqnhjSxhg10 We are all makers, full-time dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow and share information with others. Throughout this podcast, we talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between.  CONNECT WITH US: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathingWE BUILT A THING EMAIL: webuiltathing@gmail.com FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: https://www.instagram.com/gunflintdesigns Music by: Jay Fisher (Thanks, Jay!)

When will SawStop's patent expire?  I've read that they are expiring next year.  The problem with that is, I've read that every year for 4 or 5 years now.  I wanted to uncover the truth about the SawStop patent situation so I talked to a real life patent attorney about this.Video version of the show - https://youtu.be/EZ6yGis38R4

Brians Questions: Gentlemen, Thank you so much for this podcast. I very much look forward to each episode. I primarily work with hand tools making traditional furniture. One of the few machines I own is a PowerMatic 15” bandsaw. Guy's positive review of it sealed my decision and I'm very happy with it. Fantastic bandsaw. I mostly use it for long straight cuts and keep the Laguna 3/4” carbide tipped blade in it. On the occasions I need to make curve cuts I hate to change out blades. Call me lazy. I'd like to get another tool for this other than doing it by hand. It could be a smaller band saw with a thin blade, the DeWalt DW788 scroll saw, or something else. Mostly cuttin 4 quarter stock but on occasion eight quarter stock. What would you get and why?  I also own a Makita corded jigsaw. Many thanks and keep up the great work. Sincerely Joe Leonetti. Having two friends recently experience serious injuries while using their table saw, I am continuing to do more ripping using my bandsaw for safety sake. (I, like my two injured friends are in our 70's- not as quick in our reactions, as good in our judgements or dexterous as when younger.) I'm fortunate to have two bandsaws, one of which I keep a 1/2” blade on for the purpose of resawing and ripping, so it works out quite well. The issue is the rough edge left by the bandsaw vs the smooth “gluable” edge that the table saw produces. What's the best way to address this? I've heard mention of using a jointer after ripping - does this not introduce uncertainty as to the final width of the piece just ripped? For example, if I wanted a piece 10” wide and ripped it to 10 1/16”, I'd have to have my jointer set to remove exactly 1/16 which even if I accomplish that setting, may be hard to achieve and also get a perfect 90 degree edge. As an aside- I'm still considering selling my Powermatic and getting a Sawstop in the interest of increased safety. While some people might scoff at that idea, I don't care-to each his own. Both of my two friends injuries were ugly, debilitating and expensive. Thanks for the best and most informative woodworking podcast! Tim Deal Guys Questions: Hello Huy and Guy, and welcome to the show Brian. My question today is about quoting pricing for inconvenience. What I mean by that is this: if a client comes to you with a request that you aren't really excited about does that affect how much you quote? Do you ever give them a high quote in the holes that they say no, but high enough that if they still say yes, it offsets any frustration you expect to have while building?   Thanks, and I'm still waiting for Brian's social media... and for Guy to say specificity again.   Joshua. Huy's Questions: Great podcast guys. I Really appreciate how you guys answer questions based on your individual experiences. I like hearing 3 or 4 different ways to perform a task using a variety of tools. My question: my current home has 1/2” particle drawer boxes and I'm replacing them. What would you recommend for drawer box construction concerning material, thickness, drawer bottom thickness, and finish. Thanks.  -Eric Brown Greetings Gentlemen,  Thank you for continuing your podcast into 2023. It's very informative, but in a relaxed and casual format. Also; a welcome to Brian. Sean was a long time co-host and will be missed but Brian has slipped into his slot with ease and is doing great.    My question today is about planing. I'm making a 4x6 ft table top out of true 1-1/8 inch thick x 6 inch wide, rough cut white oak. When dressing down the wood, I plan on jointing one surface then planing the other surface parallel. Finished thickness I think will be between ¾ and 7/8. Here is the question. How important is it to take equal amounts off of each side? Can I just joint one surface and plane the opposite down to my finished thickness or do I have to try to take an equal amount off of both sides. If it matters, the lumber is kiln dried down to 7%.    Terry W.

Brian's Questions: Hey Fellas,   I'm in the market for a new table saw. I am coming from a 2hp Grizzly hybrid saw with a broken part I cannot find a replacement for. I'm debating between a 3hp Powermatic or Sawstop. Either of these will be a major upgrade from what I have but do you have opinions either way? The Sawstop technology is great and I understand accidents can happen but I tend to think if your hands are that close to the blade you've got bigger problems. That said, the Sawstop is up to $1,000 cheaper than the powermatic depending which add-ons you choose. Do you have any thoughts or are there other brands I'm missing and should look into? Chris  Instagram: @custom_by_chris Hi guys!  I am a hobbyist/turning professional woodworker based in Portland, Oregon.  I have really enjoyed listening to your podcast and thought I would quickly ask your opinion on rectangular dominos.  I have been creating shop-made dominos to save money.  Creating them is a pain in the butt!  Trying to nail metric round-overs with imperial bits at that level of precision is pretty involved.  It usually takes a bit of time and wasted material to set the router table up correctly in order to batch a bunch out.  Then running a glue groove on everything is another step that takes time.  A thought came to me about creating square edged, rectangular tenons that aren't hitting the radii of the domino mortise.  My thought is that the few millimeters of void wouldn't really affect the strength of the joint and the voids themselves would act as a hydrolock prevention by nature.  Assuming these aren't used for through style tenons, do you see any issues using rectangular stock?  Thanks for doing the podcast and I look forward to future episodes! Sal Al-Sudairy sfapdx@gmail.com @oregon_woodworks    Instagram Guy's Questions: Hey Guy's    I know finishing gets hit often but this is perhaps a different spin. My basement garage is my workshop so odor and chemical safety is a concern.   I'm mostly done with my plywood/poplar painted dresser (thanks for the tips by the way, screwing and glueing without fancy jointery made assembly a breeze Guy).  That being said what is a good low odor option for finishing a paint grade project that's being painted white? Yellowing and tannin bleed are therefore both concerns.   I've heard Ya'll talk about conversion varnishes but also heard complaints about odor. Would BIN water based primer under enamel paint be best? Should I go the oil based primer/paint route for durability?   I have recently gotten a paint sprayer but am open to rolling if that's preferable. I'll attach my budget sprayer below for context.   Thanks so much, this is by far the best woodworking podcast.  -Dave Hello Huy, Guy, and Brian! You gentlemen, as well as Sean, have been a huge help and inspiration to my woodworking journey. Keep the great content coming! I recently picked up an older Bosch 1615 evs plunge router mounted to an old tabletop with an Incra Intelli fence. While I can find manuals online for both of these discontinued items, I'd like to get your input on how to best set up an older router with this fence. Since this particular router is in its own molded housing, I don't think a router lift is an option. What do you all recommend for setting this router up in a new table? I intend to likely build a stand-alone router table with a top made with melamine left over from a recent project, but I'm open to suggestions. Thanks, -Kurt Huy's Questions: Hi everyone,  Thank you for a great show. I've listened through the entire catalog twice, learning a lot.  In Episode #115 (and other episodes) you mention UV light turning walnut orange. I recently built a large dining room table out of walnut. I did not dye the table, even though I knew color change was possible. I have never used dye and the walnut was so stunning, I was afraid I would mess it up.  If my table turns orange, can it be sanded off? How deep does the UV "damage" go into the wood?  If I was to dye the walnut, could you please remind us what color dye you have used that works on walnut? How you have applied it to walnut, and when in the finishing process? hanks again for a great show and a great woodworking education.  Kevin Hello Gentleman,   Love the podcast. Thanks for all your hard work.  I am considering tackling a Entertainment unit for my bonus room; however I am struggling with material choice. The cabinet finish will be painted, do you suggest plywood or MDF? I plan on building some drawers with plywood boxes and MDF faces but I am concerned about the durability of the MDF when installing hinges if I use it for the carcass construction.  The overall length of this build is 16" long by 8' tall with drawers along the bottom open shelving on either side of that with the TV in the middle. Normally I am not so indecisive ; however this is such a large project and with the high cost of materials I want to start off on the right foot. Any guidance would be appreciated.  - Mike

Braves Games, laser-cut jigs, and a Sawstop resurrection. The Sound of Freedom is the most important movie you'll see, Extraction is super cool, and Black Mirror actually looks on the bright side every now and then.    Movies & TV: Sound of Freedom Extraction (Netflix) Indy 5 Back Mirror   Sister Wilhelmina's Biography, God's Will Catholic Family Summer Camp at Heart Ridge - use discount code “smalltown”   Other great stuff we like: Pacem in Terris retreat center Picnic Blanket Restoration of Christian Culture from Our Lady of Clear Creek Abbey Restoration of Christian Culture PDF Spiritual Direction.com Sam's podcast: To Interview Them https://www.fatimafarm.com/ liturgical calendar from Sofia institute Press Wyoming Catholic Gregory the Great's St. Nicholas Guild Total Consecration to Jesus Through Mary Mac's Woodworking Shop   Mac's Online Woodcraft Store Mac's book! Clueless in Galilee   Please support us through Patreon Find us on our website Our libsyn page where you can find all our old episodes   Theme song by Mary Bragg.   Our other show: Spoiled! with Mac and Katherine   We use Amazon affiliate links. We may get a little kickback if you use the link above to purchase from Amazon.  

Today we're joined by Ron and Brian of RT Machine Company. Nearly 3 hours flew by with these guys!Check Out Our Sponsor!Visit Häfele at www.hafele.comSupport us on Patreon!https://www.patreon.com/Greene_st_joineryVisit Our WebsiteGreene Street Joinery is a custom design & build shop located in Monmouth County, New Jersey. We build multigenerational furniture with an eco-friendly and sustainable mindset.Inspired and guided by the ideals of the Arts and Crafts movement, we believe in the use of traditional craftsmanship and simple, well-proportioned forms; sustainability and ethical practices; and importantly, taking pleasure in our work as craftsmen to create quality pieces of enduring value.Follow us!Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/greene_st_joineryFacebook: ​https://www.facebook.com/greenestreetjoinerySupport this podcast at — https://redcircle.com/the-american-craftsman-podcast/donationsAdvertising Inquiries: https://redcircle.com/brands

On this week's show, Keith talks about his 250 pound table delivery and his next headache - floating shelves. And is Jason in over his head with his ambitious Airstream build-out? Listen to find out! Support us on Patreon: www.patreon.com/shopsoundspodcast. You can find us on Instagram, Youtube, Facebook and Tiktok : @bourbonmoth and @kjsawdust And don't forget to check out Bits & Bits at www.bitsbits.com and use coupon code MORSELS15 to save 15% Be sure to hit up Katz-Moses Tools at www.KMTools.com - cool tools at a fair price. If it's on their website, it's in Jonathan's apron. Wanna feel good about yourself?? Check out Katz-Moses Woodworkers with Disabilities Fund at https://kmtools.com/pages/kmww-charity --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/shopsoundspodcast/message

Episode 156Pete was on a honeymoon, doing more landscaping, working on fine tuning the print shop, getting ready to make a bunch of yard games for an upcoming party, and planning some more items for a vendor event.Dan had an eventful week, dealing with some drama on the block, tripped a Sawstop cartridge, wrapping up the day bed build, and designing some new shirts for sale on his easy.Mike is learning the new CNC, built a shed for the CNC equipment, installed a media console, got a huge wood delivery, got a new kiln drying connection, getting a lathe soon, and working on some new designs.Sign up for Patreon for Early access, and special Patreon-only content:https://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcastVoicemails:KimaniIf you had to use wood for a pair of handcuffs, what would you use?ThomasTSG MakesWhat are your recommendations for wedding bands for the work shop?How to keep his pockets clean with turning?Nick Paccia The Working GrainWhat would be your wrestling name?JakeA Suite ShopWhat are your thoughts on the economy? Are you changing anything in your processes to account for inflation?JeffHad a recent issue with a router bit. What do you recommend for safety in the shop? Any tips?You can send in your question to get answered on the podcast! Record your question or comment on your phones voice memo app and email it to anotherwoodshoppodcast@gmail.comYou can follow us all and the podcast on Instagram and YouTube!Podcast:https://www.instagram.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast/https://www.youtube.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast https://www.etsy.com/shop/awpstore Pete:https://www.instagram.com/ptreesworkshop/ https://www.youtube.com/ptreesworkshophttps://www.etsy.com/shop/pTreesWorkShop Dan:https://www.instagram.com/danieldunlap.woodworks/ https://www.youtube.com/danieldunlap  https://www.etsy.com/shop/ddwwstore Mike:https://www.instagram.com/coffeycustombuilds/ https://www.youtube.com/coffeycustombuilds https://www.etsy.com/shop/coffeycustombuilds Support the show

This week James returns to talk basic human courteousness, military railroads, Sawstop, Florida Woman, alligator attack, and bear advice. Plus: James prepares for his battalion command, counts his injured fingers, and gives us a History Burger update!

In this episode...Keith finally finishes the white oak vanity with barely an inch to spare and Jason wraps up his whiskey cabinet by setting off his Sawstop. And plenty more! Be sure to hit up our sponsors: Bits & Bits at www.bitsbits.com and use coupon code: MORSELS15 to save 15% Be sure to hit up our NEW sponsor Katz-Moses Tools at www.KMTools.com Cools tools at a fair price. If it's on their website, it's in Jonathan's Shop. Support us on Patreon: www.patreon.com/shopsoundspodcast. You can find us on Instagram, Youtube, Facebook and Tiktok : @bourbonmoth and @kjsawdust --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/shopsoundspodcast/message --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/shopsoundspodcast/message

Manfield Bar, Airbags, SawStop table saw and other life saving inventions! Thanks for sharing this full episode of the Never Too Serious Podcast. Web: www.NeverTooSerious.com Twitter: @TheNTSPodcast Gettr: @TheNTSPodcast Parler: @TheNTSPodcast Merch!: https://never-too-serious-merch.myspreadshop.com/all --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/nevertooserious/message Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/nevertooserious/support

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Sponsored by 3M Xtract   Sean 1) I've found some really nice walnut burl veneer  that I would like to use on the tambours. I plan on veneering these on to solid walnut in the hopes of both accounting for wood movement in the veneer, and not seeing an ugly MDF substrate when opening the doors. Am I going overboard by using solid walnut for the backing substrate, or is there a way to hide the edges of the MDF as to not see them when moving the doors? And would using MDF as a substrate cause issue with the veneer moving over time? I plan on using the heat lock veneer glue to adhere the veneers to the substrate. 2) Hello Sean, Guy, and Huy. You guys always make one of the best podcasts and i love hearing your different outlooks on topics. My question today is about design and encouraging creativity. Obviously, this will be different depending on whether or not there is a client involved, but how do you decide on a direction for the design of a piece of furniture? How do you begin, with the design or the materials? Have you ever looked at a piece (or stack) of lumber and designed your project to highlight something special about it? On the other hand, have you ever designed a piece, and then had to find the perfect piece of lumber to make it with? Thank you,  Joshua from The Blackdog Studios (finding beauty in former trees) Huy 1) So I've heard of some folks making the decision to not have a table saw in their shops. 2 main reasons cited being safety (IF ITS NOT A SAWSTOP YOU WILL DIE) and also space. Personally, I understand their position, but don't think I could do it. I simply like my saw too much. Would any of you consider it? Additionally, what operations does the table saw perform that you could not duplicate on/with another machine? I realize this is more of a thought experiment than question, but I thought I'd throw it out there. thanks for the great show! Mark 2) Hey all, thanks for the great show. I notice I have been getting diminished quality cuts from my full kerf glue line rip blade on my table saw. (That is- minor saw blade marks, occasional burning)  in addition, I notice a touch of increased resistance as I begin to exit my rip cuts, and the blade seems to make contact again as the board moves past the blade. To address these issues, I have adjusted the blade to about 2 thou to the left (I cut on the right of my blade generally) and adjusted my fence. I have an older , beat up Powermatic 64B  contractor saw. I have noticed the plastic faces of the fence are a bit wavy (again, a few thousands, maybe about 10-15 thou variation throughout) but I have the extreme front and back of the fence perfectly aligned. My rips aren't perfect when I cut from the left of the blade, but the resistance feels more consistent and predictable. I am currently transitioning from hobbyist to full time and would like to solve this annoyance, as it occasionally affects my panel glue ups, and cutting board season is nearly upon us. I think for now, I will clamp on an MDF fence to see if that can help suck out the issue. If it is a fence face or alignment issue. Do you think I should maybe invest in a better fence, or should I consider replacing my glorious Powermatic saw with a  SawStop Cabinet  saw exclusively to spite Guy. I do have 220 in the shop now powering my heater and  big Grizzly bandsaw, with amperage remaining for a 3hp cabinet. It would also be great to have a table saw with dust collection. Side note: Sorry for the length, y'all always ask for more details. And a replacement cabinet saw wouldn't have to be a SawStop, but I think it may be good insurance when I can afford to hire an employee. That said, this would be an upgrade maybe 3-8 months down the line if I'm making consistent money. Longer if I can get the Powermatic figured out. I do a range of things. From small CNC projects, shelves, cutting boards, and  plan to move onto selling furniture. Dillon Guy 1) Got one more question for ya. Shorter this time. I recently popped open a can of water based poly that I've had in storage for a while. The top 3/4 of the can was great but when I got to the bottom 1/4 it had turned in to a thick gel like substance. I did some quick googling and found a forum post where somebody suggested creating CO2 gas by mixing baking soda and vinegar in a jar and “pouring” that gas in to a partially used can of poly. The CO2 will displace the oxygen in the can and then you seal it up. This preserves the leftover poly as the reaction with oxygen is what hardens it. Obviously it's too late for my can but have you all ever heard of this? If so have you ever done it? Thought it was pretty interesting regardless. Thanks, Jon 2) Hi guys love the podcast.  My question is this ,  is it of absolute importance to have a dead flat assembly table to glue up your work square and keep it square? I ask because I built a dresser and glued it up checked it for square and moved it to my floor which is steel plates, rechecked it for square and it was fine.  Came beck the next morning and took it out of clamps and out of square it was had to disassemble and re glue very frustrating.  So now looking to build an assembly table that is flat and level so I want to know how flat does it need to be. Thanks keep up the good work. Fred clarke

So this episode is a little different from most, we ventured out and talked to one of them pallet wood guys..  Okay all joking aside, we talked to a maker named Corey, listed in the mentions, that deals in reclaimed hardwood from historical buildings, some as early as the 1700s. This was a fun episode getting to hear how much work goes into dealing with lumber that is not pre shaped, bugless etc., (we are bougie like that lol). Nick finished his long awaited podium build and he is still pumping many projects out. Josh has a lot going on in the shop as well even if it is not jobs. It has been a little slow for him lately but he is keeping busy. Nap is getting his life together, made a few things and showed the Patrons a piece of what he was working on in the live video.  Nick and Nap get into it about the SAWSTOP so that's a fun little back and forth that you do not wanna miss. He has his heater as well and that is being installed this next week, ready to get fully at it. Hope you like this episode, go make some sawdust, SAWDUST NATION OUT!!!SPECIAL GUESTCorey Matthewhttps://www.instagram.com/cardinal.woodworking/MentionsSAWSTOPhttps://www.instagram.com/sawstopsaws/Sponsors:PWN CNCUsers Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/2993800347512326Website   https://pwncnc.com/Instagram https://www.instagram.com/pwncnc/5% off Promo/Affiliate Code: "sawdustnation981" (Also works for new spindle sets)Totalboathttps://www.instagram.com/totalboat/Promo Code: Slide into our DM'sAffiliate LinksOMTech Laserhttps://www.instagram.com/omtechlaser/Follow the link: https://omtechlaser.com/?ref=sawdustnationCODE: SAWDUSTNATIONBrand Ambassadors for Maker Stockhttps://www.instagram.com/makerstockinfo/One Time PROMO: SAWDUST10Support the show

There's a more affordable SawStop table saw, and you might be surprised to hear that common power tools are this loud. Find out in today's Home News: Quick Fix by MyFixitUpLife.  

There's a more affordable SawStop table saw, and you might be surprised to hear that common power tools are this loud. Find out in today's Home News: Quick Fix by MyFixitUpLife.  

There's a more affordable SawStop table saw, and you might be surprised to hear that common power tools are this loud. Find out in today's Home News: Quick Fix by MyFixitUpLife.   

Watch Video Episode: https://youtu.be/NWXeFxrE594 Youtube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCtqHeUYt583AYJJwNTbByMw After a 6 month hibernation, the boys are back and we're live from Chris's workshop! Recording in person instead of over video call was so much more fun to make and we added video too!! Sorry for the little bit of mic noise from me - Mike... learning how to use handheld mics better! Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3dDUgbu -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Guy 1)Jacob from North Carolina, long time listener, 3rd time questioner. I'm building a trestle style kitchen table that will have a painted base. Not my first choice, but happy wife happy life.  My question is:  What do y'all use to eliminate seams when painting?  Spackle, putty, or some other product.  My seams are tight, right and smooth, but when I've painted projects in the past, the seams remain visible.  For the trestle table legs, I would like them to be seamless and look like one piece.   Any insight is appreciated. FYI, I'll be spraying the paint. 2) Gentleman love your podcast and have listened to every episode, keep up the great work. My question is about fence length. Currently the saw I own is a 1980 Delta Unisaw with a 52" fence. I purchased it new in 1980. I am retiring this year after I sell my company. My wife wants to purchase a new Sawstop for me because I'm always complaining about the dust collection on my old saw. She wants to buy me the Sawstop Industrial saw (I love tools), and wanted to know do I want the 36" or 52" fence.  I think I can count on one hand the number of times I used the additional length on my current fence and was just wondering do you guys have the 36" or 52" fence assembly and is it worth having the larger fence.  Normally I just have stuff sitting on it. Second question is for Guy, as I'm in my late sixties and my skin is quite dry and I use lotion regularly I've heard you talk about using gloves in the shop. What type of gloves do you use and are you happy with them. And one last thing Guy at 5'8" I love my Laguna bandsaw the table height is perfect for me :)  Kris   Sean 1) Hey guys I just wanna say thank you for the amazing contact the guys put out! I found you guys about four months ago I've been going through the old episodes to catch up. But I was wondering if you guys could help me out and point me to a good affordable biscuit joiner. I would love to get a festool biscuit joiner but it's just out of my price range, is there anyway you guys can recommend A biscuit joiner that is worth the best bang for his buck. Thank you again for awesome content Ethan thompson 2) I am contemplating making a new workbench to go with my inkliened vise. I like my current workbench made of southern yellow pine but would like to add a few features like a two piece top for clamping as well as an end vise/wagon vise. My question is would ambrosia maple be a good/bad material choice for a workbench? From my wood store is $3 cheaper than soft maple. I could see the color variance possibly being an issue during use and sighting material. I'm not sure the holes in the material would be that problematic. What says you guys? Thanks, Ryan   Huy 1) Hey guys. New listener here! Love the genuine vibe of the show and of course all the knowledge. I build barn doors, blind mount shelves and mantles out of my garage to support my family. I recently had to switch to plywood for most builds due to cost of solid wood (1x and 2x materials) . My question is..I live in Tampa Florida and my wife hates that our pool table room has become the lumber storage room. Now that I'm using sheet goods and don't want to break them down far in advance of projects...what are your thoughts on ways to store plywood in a NON climate controlled Florida garage? Also storing solid woods as well. Oh, and my material is always pine or poplar. I would love your thoughts on this topic. Humidity, drastic weather changes hourly and no climate control? The garage is a dedicated, yet messy work space. 2)Hey Fellas, Thanks for addressing my last question on fuzzy cutting boards.  Sean was correct - I was over-sanding after each raising of the grain.  So many ways to shoot yourself in the foot it seems... I want to ask your thoughts on the practical limits of mitre saws.  I'm sure you've addressed similar before, but as Guy often points out, what haven't you addressed before!   Maybe not from this angle perhaps?  There are folk who do anything and everything with a mitre saw and those who wouldn't  cut a precise mitre with one to save their lives.  In my journey thus far I think the most important thing for novices is to appreciate the full capabilities as well as the limitations of their equipment. Assuming a novice user.., one with a reasonable quality mitre saw and table saw.., one who has learned to keep both reasonably well calibrated.., but one who has yet to be collecting after-market devices such as advanced mitre gages etc..  Can you point to any examples of types of operations that represent a limit, or exceed the limit, of what a novice should reasonably expect from themselves and their mitre saw?  Or put another way.. for this or that operation - have at it..  but at such and such a point..  well then it's time to be pursuing table saw jigs or other skillsets to get where they need/want to go? Thanks again, hope this finds you all well, keep on keepin' on! Colin  

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin   Sean 1)Thank you all great information from both the podcast. Right now I have a woodriver spoke shave, wood river shoulder plane, i have buck brothers #4 four plane and block plane, both from home depot, totaling $50.  I have learned to sharpen well and get whispy shaving and a mirror surface on most woods.  Though the plane seems to loose it's setting quickly and the blade chips on any thing harder then pine.  I have some money and want to buy a new plane.  I only have about $350 to spend.  Which plane would you recommend? I think Bevel up veritas or wood river and buying a second 50 degree blade. Scott 2) Thanks for the informative podcast. I have a  question regarding dado blades.  I have a 10 inch delta table saw (36-725T2), and I am wondering what blade to get.  Most of the dado blades I see for sale are 8", and some 6".  Being that my table saw motor is not overly powerful , would a 6" blade be better to reduce the weight?  What are your recommendations on size and maybe some brands you have used and suggest?   Thanks. Trevor   Guy 1) I have a question about drilling pilot holes for wood screws. There seem to be 2 types of pilot hole/contersink bits. One style has a straight bit and the other style has a tapered bit. I have read conflicting information about the different types. Are the tapered bits only for tapered screws and the straight bits for newer straight shank woodscrews or are the tapered bits preferable for everything? When drilling the pilot holes should I drill a larger hole through the top board to pull the boards closer? If using the tapered bits how is the countersink adjust for longer or shorter screws as the hole depths are different? Should I just forget about the combination drill/countersink bits and use a separate drill and coutersink. Thanks for your advice. Bob 2) I recently started monetizing my woodworking skills as a side hustle, which has been great as it has allowed me to upgrade a lot of my tool arsenal. I just bought a Sawstop professional cabinet saw, and of course, the differences between it and a jobsite saw are night and day. I have managed to cut both of my hands on 2 separate occasions with my DeWalt table saw (without removing digits, fortunately), so if there ever was a person who needed to invest in a Sawstop, I am that man. I think my next buy will be a Festool (most likely) track saw, or perhaps a helical blade planer. Currently my bread-and-butter work tends to be sliding barn doors. I don't claim to be an extremely highly skilled woodworker who does intricate joinery at this point; I simply realized that I could capitalize on my accrued skills and make smaller-scale projects for extra "shop money".  The one tool I have not invested in yet is a Jointer. I highly desire to have one but I have been able to get by for this long without it, so I am in no particular hurry to get one. My question is this: How beneficial does having a jointer tend to be in your experience, and is it something you use all the time? Is it something you would consider a must have for any serious woodworker? I apologize for this being long-winded. Thanks in advance. Nate   Huy 1)Good Evening Gentlemen....and I use that term loosely I have been blessed to be a Dad for a little son who is now 3.5 years old.  I have had him out in the workshop trying out some of the tools....spokeshaves, hand planes, drill press, clamps and vises, and some other hand tools that I deem safe under direct supervision.  It is so much fun to see the wheels turn as he experiments with them.  I have made a decision to expose and introduce him to these experiences early on in the hope of planting the seed for curiosity and establishing a foundation of fundamental skills and understanding of how things are created.  I do worry though as he becomes comfortable with different tools, he will eventually want to try and experiment on his own.  I am always reinforcing that he is not allowed to do things without me, but at some point, I do worry that he might try and do things while I am gone.  At this time, I flip all of the breakers for the power tool circuits and I am comfortable with this solution now, however, as he gets older and might understand why I am opening and closing that grey panel, I am looking for some more control of when things run.  Are you guys aware of any solutions with new smart breakers ect that would allow more direct control over how and when circuits can have power?  I have looked online at square D's website and I am not finding a simple solution for this in terms of a retro fit solution on a standard electric panel.  It seems like a few smart breakers that are password protected would be a perfect solution.  Some of the tools have those yellow plastic inserts in the switch, but I was looking for something a little more elegant to control the power at the circuit level.  Benjamin and I often listen to the show after the lights go out for bed time, so if you can keep the jokes reasonably clean that will save me some explaining later for his mother.  Love the show and keep up the great work. Brad 2) Thanks for your podcast, I enjoy it tremendously and it is obvious that the three of you are really good friends! I recently saw a short Y.T. video from WWGOA/George Vondruska about a track saw guide rail set that can be adapted to almost any regular circular saw,  and provides accurate straight line cutting of sheet goods and dimensional lumber on a standard track rail.  (Please see the video on YT from WWGOA: "Benefits of a Track Saw | Woodworkers Guild of America ") It would appear that you can buy these track saw rails and adapter plate,  and if the instructions are followed correctly,  bolt your regular circular saw to a base that indexes on their track accurately and with repeatability for making straight cuts.  The purpose of this is to reduce the expense of buying a single purpose saw, when you already generally have one that can be used for this purpose. The adapter plate is bolted to your regular circular saw base with 4 bolts. (Which are supplied by True Trac), using a guide to index for square positioning of the saw onto the adapter plate.  The guide rail track is then trimmed perfectly using the saw, and performance at that point is identical to any other track saw. There are several video clips on YT about this track, and it's available on Amazon as well as direct from the manufacturer. It gets excellent reviews if you place any faith in them. I believe all 3 if you esteemed gentlemen already have either the Festool or Makita track saws & guide rails, so you are extremely knowledgeable and experienced with this type of device. Your thoughts,  please? Thanks again for your great service to the woodworking community. John Malcolm  

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Guy 1)First I want to say fantastic podcast guys.  By far the best woodworking podcast out there.  I recently discovered the podcast and have binge listened to old past episodes while building the cabinets for our new home. We are building a new home with a shop / garage combo and I finally have the space to buy the tools that I have never had the space to own before.  Next up on my list is a drill press and trying to decide what size to get.  Bench top model vs floor model, size motor, features to look for, etc.  I build furniture and cabinets mostly but like pushing my creative side and making other odd things as well.   I want the best bang for the money but don't mind spending a little extra to get what will be my lifetime drill press. Thanks for your help.  Keep up the good work.  Plan to be a long time listener but I didn't buy a SawStop so I might die soon!  LOL. - Tom 2) My question is regarding learning more about design for my projects. Up to now most of my projects have been based on an existing design or product. I scroll Instagram, Pinterest, furniture store sites and find pieces similar to what I want and duplicate them or mash a few together to make my “own”. I'd like to start developing a design style of my own or pick a lane of design such as Mission or Greene and Greene and focus a little more on that. Can you recommend any books or authors to give me a better understanding of the popular design periods that speak to the elements, features, woods used and so on for the various periods of design to help pick one? I'd also be interested in any books that teach elements of a good design like proper proportions, and similar for furniture building so I can design and build a well balanced piece. There is so much it might be impossible to put it all in a book, but you all offer good insight to us listeners so I'd welcome whatever you have to offer of any recommendations you might have. Thanks all! Mike   Sean 1) Gents - Found your show mid way through a 22-hour drive into Mexico. Listening to you - particularly Guy- reminds me of the people and shops I visited while a board  member of the San Joaquin Fine Woodworking  club in California. Simple, not too fussy advice that is useful for those picking up the woodworking hobby or far into the deep end this avocation. Keep up the good work. You've spent a fair amount of time discussing the likes and dislikes of Waterlox. A recent project was a 42” x 78” patio table from 4/4 and 8/4 sapele. Legs are 5” square steel tube tapered and coped in a McIntosch style. As it would live outdoors, I opted to finish with Waterlox Marine Finish in gloss. Prep: Sand to 220 grit; vacuum and compressed air; wipe down with mineral spirits; apply Waterlox with a Jen foam brush. The first coat  was a disaster with dime size voids in the finish … as if the surface was waxed before the Waterlox went down.  I believe  the cause was the mineral spirits: I applied the finish about a half hour after after the wipe down … something I often do without issue with spar urethane. Subsequent coats went down fine after letting the piece off gas for four days. My thinking is the tung oil interacted with the residual solvent. Thoughts? Thanks - Craig P.S. Mentioned the foam brush brand because I've found it to be the only that rivals a high quality bristle brush for brush application 2)Hi guys, thanks for the podcast, really helpful info! Keep hearing your requests for more questions, so here are a few. You talked a lot about dust extraction recently. I've seen people claiming that by replacing the filter bag with a fine cartridge filter people have seen major improvements in the performance of their extractor units. Do you have any experience with these? Thanks for all the time you put in, love listening. Best wishes - Chris (UK based enthusiastic amateur)   Huy 1)Hi, long time listener that truly appreciates all of the wisdom and humor you have provided over the years in your great podcast. I have a couple design questions for a sofa and a pair of side tables I am making for my living room.  They are a pretty simple design that uses mortise and tenon joinery for the aprons and legs.  I use my router with a 1/4" bit to make the mortise, and the table saw with a dado blade to make the tenons.  The legs will be just under 2" from the thickest material I can get from my 8/4 stock and about 28" long.  The aprons will be 3/4"thick and 6" tall, they could be slightly thicker, they will come from 4/4 stock. I want to try my hand at piston fit drawers instead of using drawer slides.  How would you attach the inner structure that supports the drawers underneath and on the sides inside the table?  I don't have a domino or biscuit joiner.  I have never had good results with pieces attached with pocket holes staying in place during installation and I am afraid the slight movement will ruin the piston fit. Thank you. Julio 2)Gentlemen- Congratulations as you near your 100th episode, and well-deserved syndication riches. I'm about to complete my workbench of air dried black locust (top) and white oak (base). I am installing leg and twin screw tail vises. I will need to procure additional lumber for the thick components of both. I thought it might look nice to use some Walnut, but I can only get  12/4 kiln dried. I don't see a problem with the leg chop, it's attached with the vise hardware, but would dovetailing a kiln dried tail skirt onto an air dried laminated top would be asking for problems? Thank you for any advice or relevant anecdotes you may have. Tom    

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1)First off I want say how much I've enjoyed listening to your podcast over the past year or more.  With the right balance of instruction and interaction between the hosts, it's both informative and entertaining. I've been woodworking for quite some time and I ran across something I never experienced before and was hoping you might have some insight.  I'm building a floor lamp with three curved legs as a base.  I made a template for the leg profile out of ¼ inch hardboard.  Using a straight pattern bit on my router table, I was able to easily create three legs out of ¾ plywood for my prototype.  Happy with the design I used the template to trace out the legs on some ¾ walnut.  I then rough cut out the legs on the band saw, leaving a 1/16inch of material outside of the line.  From there it was back to the router table where I attempted to flush cut the legs using the template and straight pattern bit. This gave me no trouble at all when routing the plywood prototype legs, but as soon as I carefully eased the walnut into the bit, it would immediately catch and tear out. I purchased a ¼ inch spiral flush trim bit and also used a starting pin but the results where the same. I continued to get bad catches and tear out no matter how carefully or slowly I went.  In all my years of woodworking, I've never run across anything like this. Any ideas on what I could do different? Terry 2) Hi guys and thanks again for making the ULTIMATE (remember that episode?) woodworking podcast, And by the way, thanks for answering my last question.  I live in Bergen, Norway and a small local timber merchant is selling Beech (I guess it is European beech) and Alder (again European alder I believe) at quite a reasonable price. Here in Norway poplar is not readily available. Given a choice between the two, which would you choose as a secondary wood (for drawers and parts that won't be seen)? And if you were to make furniture project wholly out of one of them, which would you choose? And of course, why? Both are rated as perishable. The beech is quite a lot harder according to the janka scale. 6460N vs. 2890N. The beech is supposedly superb for steam bending, but I have yet to get there in my skill set. And both seem to have quite good workability. I am not sure I appreciate the ray fleck look or the slightly yellow look on the beech that I have seen, but that may be fixed during finishing if the other attributes make it worth while. I have however, little experience with alder. Looking forward to your discussion on this. Sincerely, Gøran Eliassen Nomad Makes   Guy 1) Hey guys. My question is about pricing your woodworking and getting past imposter syndrome. I have recently started making some items for a group of dog breed enthusiasts and I have experienced a substantial growth in demand for items that fall much more into the "art" category than the "furniture" category. As a hobbyist woodworker,  I do not have a huge portfolio of work that I've sold, only a few items here and there. Moving forward, I plan on building into a more substantial business. I obviously want to price my work at what it's worth, but I can be very self conscious about my skills and tend to undervalue what I'm worth. I obviously want to sell as much as I can, but how do I sell my work at a value that gets its out into the world without setting a low bar price-wise for the future? I am my harshest critic. Joshua 2) Hey Guy(s)! Thankfully this question is not very time sensitive, so hopefully you can get to it before I need to take your answer(s) into consideration. My wife and I are in the process of redesigning our kitchen that is in need of a serious facelift. We plan on contracting out the plumbing and electrical and fortunately aren't doing any structural modifications to the house itself. Our current debate involves the cabinetry. I'm a fairly competent woodworker and love a good challenge. Personally, I'd rather take the money we would pay a cabinet shop to build and install new cabinets and make some needed upgrades and additions to my own workshop to do them myself. I'm not a fan of raised panel designs so I'll probably do more shaker style cabinets.  I have a Sawstop contractor saw, 14” bandsaw, 13” planer, basic router table, bench top drill press, and an older model Festool track saw, plus various other hand tools Considering I expect to save somewhere in the range of $5-10K by doing it myself, what additional tools would you recommend? As specific as you'd like to be would be great if you have machines you've been very happy with. Side note: we had to take down a large white oak in our back yard and I plan to have it milled up and kiln dried to continue its life on our property. Thanks for your time and your continued insight to help us all become better woodworkers! Shawn @terpax     Huy 1) Aloha Boys!  I have a question about managing humidity and rust in the workshop.  I live in Hawaii and have my workshop in a detached garage.  Most buildings here including my workshop have jaulosie style windows and I can't completely seal and temperature control my shop.  I am spraying or wiping down my larger tools with T-9  and other rust inhibitors,  but many of my other various tools and equipment are quickly rusting.     Outside of temperature controlling a shop, any other tips tricks or ideas? Are silicone gel packs a waste of money?   Would it be crazy to put rubber weather sealing on cabinet doors?  Mahalo boys, you are the best! Matt 2)Hey again, love the podcast and the advice you give. Recently you answered why I suck at hinges, and one reason mentioned was the cheap hardware I often use. This lead me to another thought. When do you buy the hardware for a project? Before you begin, or once it's all made? I tend to wait until after the project is made, and unfortunately that also means I sometimes struggle to find hardware that will work. I've been known to buy many different sets of hinges to take home and see how they look on a box, or even carried boxes into Rockler to try there. I've also ran into the issue of fit. I recently made a shoe-shine box, and when I planed the lumber, i just ran it through until I thought it looked good. I didn't measure at all. But when I went to buy hinges, the odd sizing left me with hinges that were either too big and stuck out, or not strong enough for the weight of the lid/shoe support. I ended up with external hinges that I didn't like, and 3 of them for strength, all because I didn't plan ahead. My wife likes it, but what does she know about design?  Peter  

Dan has been cranking out the Sawstop zero clearance insert plates, started wiring up his spindle with Graham, and talking to some local clients for more upcoming projects.Mike is busy with 1 man leaving on vacation soon, had a delivery fall through from a lumber supplier, had an emergency call from a customer about powder-post beetles drilling in their table live edge, so he's been applying a solution and treating it. He's working on the grounding boxes now, and might be getting lucky with some large slabs for a low price.Pete is knocking out more ice climbing training tools, and seriously rethinking working on this project moving forward because of the labor involved. Went axe throwing and “loved all the wood”, finally got caught up on administrative work, had the Laguna Dust Collector in today out of nowhere (2 months ahead of schedule) and he started recording a video about it which got him all inspired.Sign up for Patreon for Early access, and special Patreon-only content:https://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcastVoicemails:Scott ShirkI just got a TS 55 Festool tracks. But then I found out there is a 75 as well. Is it worth the extra cutting capacity?You can leave us a voice message at (754) 225-5297 or you can record your question or comment on your phones voice memo app and email it to anotherwoodshoppodcast@gmail.comYou can follow us all and the podcast on Instagram and YouTube!Podcast:https://www.instagram.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast/https://www.youtube.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast https://www.etsy.com/shop/awpstore Pete:https://www.instagram.com/ptreesworkshop/ https://www.youtube.com/ptreesworkshophttps://www.etsy.com/shop/pTreesWorkShop Dan:https://www.instagram.com/danieldunlap.woodworks/ https://www.youtube.com/danieldunlap  https://www.etsy.com/shop/ddwwstore Mike:https://www.instagram.com/coffeycustombuilds/ https://www.youtube.com/coffeycustombuilds https://www.etsy.com/shop/coffeycustombuilds Support the show (http://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast)

Dan is working on the monkeypod table, making Sawstop zero clearance insert plates, working on adding new items on etsy, and he hasPete is drowning in admin stuff, found a to-do list that had a bunch of priority stuff he dropped the ball on, etsy has been raving up, he got an Ender 3 Pro to add to the print shop, ordered 3 more Prusa printers, became a partner with Prusa3D, and he's tuning his laser because it maintenance.Mike was at a Festool event in Rhode Island (street land), got stranded in DC at the airport, dealing with lots of admin stuff, he's getting a Lomello joinery system, building more grounding boxes, and he's been negotiating some purchase orders for the first time.Sign up for Patreon for Early access, and special Patreon-only content:https://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcastVoicemails:Dylan ScottI have some boards that I made and they have a little wobble. What would you recommend to stop the wobble?Erik NelsonWant a general purpose sprayer for all around use. Can you recommend somethingBlakeWhipperwool woodcraftPaneled miter Cuts. What would you recommend to make these cuts as accurately as possible?Jake MillerA Suite IdeaCan you guys talk about some of the administrative and behind the scenes stuff, etc. Any insight and tips you can share to get new businesses some insight into starting out?You can leave us a voice message at (754) 225-5297 or you can record your question or comment on your phones voice memo app and email it to anotherwoodshoppodcast@gmail.comYou can follow us all and the podcast on Instagram and YouTube!Podcast:https://www.instagram.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast/https://www.youtube.com/anotherwoodshoppodcasthttps://www.etsy.com/shop/awpstorePete:https://www.instagram.com/ptreesworkshop/https://www.youtube.com/ptreesworkshophttps://www.etsy.com/shop/pTreesWorkShopDan:https://www.instagram.com/danieldunlap.woodworks/https://www.youtube.com/danieldunlaphttps://www.etsy.com/shop/ddwwstoreMike:https://www.instagram.com/coffeycustombuilds/https://www.youtube.com/coffeycustombuildshttps://www.etsy.com/shop/coffeycustombuildsSupport the show (http://www.patreon.com/anotherwoodshoppodcast)

A listener from Madison, WI gave us a great follow-up to the table saw that stops instantly when it senses flesh. Scott sent us pictures too:   “Hi Amy, Alicia, and Kayla, I just wanted to follow up on some of the gray areas around the  flesh-sensing saw technology. I have owned one for a few years. The saws actually sense an electrical current that flows through the  blade, a current which changes if it contacts your body. The blade stops  and is retracted below the saw table in about 5/1000 of a second. There  is a lot of video online of people setting them off on purpose,  including of the inventor very cautiously putting his finger onto the  blade. It doesn't even break the skin! The propulsion mechanism is a spring. I've attached a photo of a new cartridge and one that I had the  misfortune of triggering, although it was through accidental contact  with my aluminum miter gauge, not my skin. You can see a few key things  in the photo: First, the lower unit is obviously the one that was triggered. The chunk  of aluminum is the actual braking mechanism--it's driven into the  spinning blade to stop it. The row of little holes act as a crumple  zone. If you look closely, you can see that some of them are deformed a bit. Second, the spring is exposed. The whole thing pivots around the large  circular hole, which fits over an axle. When the spring fires, it drives  the block into the blade, and the blade is also being driven (by its  rotational momentum) into the block, which is how it retracts under the  table. Third, in the second photo, you can actually see that there are some  carbide teeth embedded in the block. In general, when these things fire  the blade and the cartridge are both throw-away items. In theory you can  have the missing teeth replaced and the blade checked for straightness,  but it's more cost effective to replace all but the most expensive  blades. This was a rather costly dado set, and when I priced it out the  repair option was basically equal to replacement cost. You can also see a data port on there--it looks just like the port that  was on your PC back in the 90s. There are a ton of electronics in the  saws. They actually have a boot-up cycle, and there are a bunch of  diagnostics that they run, including making sure that the gap between  the blade and the brake is correct. There's even a chart you use to read  error codes based on combinations of flashing lights. From what I can  tell looking at online forums, if people have problems with the saws  it's that they fire too much rather than not enough. I'm not familiar  with a case of one of them failing to fire. You can also boot up the saw in what they call bypass mode. You would  use this to cut conductive materials like aluminum. It's also possible  that some very wet treated lumber might be wet enough to conduct current  at a level that would fire the saw. At present the only brand available is SawStop. Bosch tried to introduce  a competitor a few years back but it got pulled from the market due to  patent infringement. The saws are expensive, that's true. I decide to get one because with my  insurance, every time I go to physical therapy it's over $100 out of  pocket, so in the long run avoiding an injury is going to be the cheaper  option! Thanks for the podcast!" Coupled with the “first year of homeownership” task list, having an energy audit performed is also something to consider. This will help find energy leaks and how making upgrades in those leaky areas will save money in the long run.   There are rebates for windows, doors, and heating systems among other things.  Things homeowners can do to help include: Installing or replacing...

I bought a SawStop. Hopefully I won't regret it.

I bought a SawStop. Hopefully I won't regret it.

In this one, Bruce gets a visit from Drew and gets his SawStop running. Mark messes with his laser rotary. Drew makes it home with his new truck, but after quite a journey. Plus, a ton more! Become a patron of the show to receive awesome rewards! http://patreon.com/webuiltathing OUR TOP PATREON SUPPORTERS: -YouCanMakeThisToo YT: http://bit.ly/38sqq7v-JK Canvas YT: http://bit.ly/3tbmWy6-Jennie and Davis YT: http://bit.ly/3evuXdg-Tom's Woodwork-Tim Morrill-Brent Jarvis IG: https://bit.ly/2OJL7EV -Dad It Yourself DIY YT: http://bit.ly/3vcuqmv-Broken Lead Woodworks IG: https://bit.ly/38vQij8 -Christopher Simonton-Maddux Woodworks YT: http://bit.ly/3chHe2p-Ray Jolliff  -Ryder Clark -James Attaway-Dan Rhodes-Mark Peterson -Wilker's Woodcraft -Jonathan Erickson -David Atkinson -Deo Gloria Woodworks: https://www.instagram.com/deogloriawoodworks/ -Kris -Wayne's Woodshed Support our sponsors: MagSwitch: https://mag-tools.com -use code "WBAT" for 10% off SurfPrep: https://www.surfprepsanding.com/?aff=48  -use code "FISHER10" for 10% off RZmask: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Bits & Bits: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Starbond: use code "BRUCEAULRICH" We Built A Thing T-shirts! We have two designs to choose from! (You can get one of these as a reward at certain levels of support) https://amzn.to/2GP04jf  https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 ETSY SHOPS: Bruce: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BruceAUlrich?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=942512486 Drew: https://www.etsy.com/shop/FishersShopOnline?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=893150766 Mark: https://www.etsy.com/shop/GunflintDesigns?ref=search_shop_redirect Bruce's most recent video: https://youtu.be/TQxu-ekODxU Drew's most recent video: https://youtu.be/TrxHgr_11Ns Mark's most recent video: https://youtu.be/XqVIDO0KPOI We are all makers, full-time dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow and share information with others. Throughout this podcast, we talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between.  CONNECT WITH US: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathingWE BUILT A THING EMAIL: webuiltathing@gmail.com FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: https://www.instagram.com/gunflintdesigns Music by: Jay Fisher (Thanks, Jay!)

The new Netflix show: MAKING FUN is premiering March 4th, be sure to click the reminder button in the link so it on your Netflix home page when it comes out!! https://www.netflix.com/title/81267200 Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3dDUgbu -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

After taking January off to settle into the new year, we're back and we have a lot to catch up on! Let's talk DIY! Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3dDUgbu -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

In this one, Mark builds a new workbench top with his dad. Bruce finally sets up his SawStop. Drew makes some progress on the unnecessary walnut drying rack. Plus, a ton more! Aufero 2 Laser: http://tinyurl.com/aufero2 Become a patron of the show to receive awesome rewards! http://patreon.com/webuiltathing OUR TOP PATREON SUPPORTERS: -YouCanMakeThisToo YT: http://bit.ly/38sqq7v-JK Canvas YT: http://bit.ly/3tbmWy6-Jennie and Davis YT: http://bit.ly/3evuXdg-Tom's Woodwork-Tim Morrill-Brent Jarvis IG: https://bit.ly/2OJL7EV -Dad It Yourself DIY YT: http://bit.ly/3vcuqmv-Broken Lead Woodworks IG: https://bit.ly/38vQij8 -Christopher Simonton-Maddux Woodworks YT: http://bit.ly/3chHe2p-Ray Jolliff  -Ryder Clark -James Attaway-Dan Rhodes-Mark Peterson-Tommy Trease -Wilker's Woodcraft -Jonathan Erickson -David Atkinson -Deo Gloria Woodworks: https://www.instagram.com/deogloriawoodworks/ -Kris -Phillip Stanfill Support our sponsors: MagSwitch: https://mag-tools.com -use code "WBAT" for 10% off SurfPrep: https://www.surfprepsanding.com/?aff=48  -use code "FISHER10" for 10% off RZmask: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Bits & Bits: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Starbond: use code "BRUCEAULRICH" We Built A Thing T-shirts! We have two designs to choose from! (You can get one of these as a reward at certain levels of support) https://amzn.to/2GP04jf  https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 ETSY SHOPS: Bruce: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BruceAUlrich?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=942512486 Drew: https://www.etsy.com/shop/FishersShopOnline?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=893150766 Mark: https://www.etsy.com/shop/GunflintDesigns?ref=search_shop_redirect Bruce's most recent video: https://youtu.be/TQxu-ekODxU Drew's most recent video: https://youtu.be/Dzsrm7VxYu4 Mark's most recent video: https://youtu.be/f2SD8biMPmc We are all makers, full-time dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow and share information with others. Throughout this podcast, we talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between.  CONNECT WITH US: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathingWE BUILT A THING EMAIL: webuiltathing@gmail.com FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: https://www.instagram.com/gunflintdesigns Music by: Jay Fisher (Thanks, Jay!)

Drum Roll Please..... Thank you times a million to everyone who participated in this years Modern Maker Challenge brought to you by Rockler; the #rocklerhobbychallenge. Be sure to check out the # on instagram to see all of the projects we're talking about and mentioning on the show! https://www.rockler.com/hobby-challenge Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3dDUgbu -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

The Rockler Hobby Challenge wrap up is next week so get your entries in!! #rocklerhobbychallenge. Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Try Indeed out with a FREE SEVENTY-FIVE DOLLAR CREDIT at https://www.Indeed.com/MODERN -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3dDUgbu -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

In this one, you find out that Drew gets rebooted. Bruce finally gets his SawStop and Mark lives the big life...he rotates his carbide blades on the jointer.  Become a patron of the show to receive awesome rewards! http://patreon.com/webuiltathing OUR TOP PATREON SUPPORTERS: -YouCanMakeThisToo YT: http://bit.ly/38sqq7v-JK Canvas YT: http://bit.ly/3tbmWy6-Jennie and Davis YT: http://bit.ly/3evuXdg-Tom's Woodwork-Tim Morrill-Brent Jarvis IG: https://bit.ly/2OJL7EV -Dad It Yourself DIY YT: http://bit.ly/3vcuqmv-Broken Lead Woodworks IG: https://bit.ly/38vQij8 -Christopher Simonton-Maddux Woodworks YT: http://bit.ly/3chHe2p-Ray Jolliff -Firewood Designs YT: http://bit.ly/3qCwP6t -Ryder Clark -James Attaway-Dan Rhodes-Mark Peterson-Tommy Trease -Wilker's Woodcraft -Jonathan Erickson -David Atkinson -Matthew Allen -Jerek Gaming-Drew Ines New:-John Clupny -Ronnie McKenzie Support our sponsors: MagSwitch: https://mag-tools.com -use code "WBAT" for 10% off SurfPrep: https://www.surfprepsanding.com/?aff=48  -use code "FISHER10" for 10% off RZmask: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Bits & Bits: use code "FISHER10" for 10% off Starbond: use code "BRUCEAULRICH" We Built A Thing T-shirts! We have two designs to choose from! (You can get one of these as a reward at certain levels of support) https://amzn.to/2GP04jf  https://amzn.to/2TUrCr2 ETSY SHOPS: Bruce: https://www.etsy.com/shop/BruceAUlrich?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=942512486 Drew: https://www.etsy.com/shop/FishersShopOnline?ref=simple-shop-header-name&listing_id=893150766 Mark: https://www.etsy.com/shop/GunflintDesigns?ref=search_shop_redirect Bruce's most recent video: https://youtu.be/ZTqd_yIj_MA Drew's most recent video: https://youtu.be/ar4W85lidOk Mark's most recent video: https://youtu.be/z4k73xw_La8 We are all makers, full-time dads and all have YouTube channels we are trying to grow and share information with others. Throughout this podcast, we talk about making things, making videos to share on YouTube, Instagram, Facebook, etc...and all of the life that happens in between.  CONNECT WITH US: WE BUILT A THING: www.instagram.com/webuiltathingWE BUILT A THING EMAIL: webuiltathing@gmail.com FISHER'S SHOP: www.instagram.com/fishersshop/ BRUDADDY: www.instagram.com/brudaddy/ GUNFLINT DESIGNS: https://www.instagram.com/gunflintdesigns Music by: Jay Fisher (Thanks, Jay!)

DIY Gym Building with mike, High level DIY'ing with Chris, and Ben Got the Joshua Tree Hotel Plans Approved by the city! Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Try Indeed out with a FREE SEVENTY-FIVE DOLLAR CREDIT at https://www.Indeed.com/MODERN --Explore your creativity at https://Skillshare.com/MODERNMAKER and get a free trial of Premium Membership -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3bKkMzH -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

More #rocklerhobbychallenge submissions are rolling in, plenty of time to still get started and we'll continue highlighting our favorites before the BIG rundown episode!! How many do you think Ben can do?? Find Us On Instagram: Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3bKkMzH -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife   Sean 1) How do you guys remove remove squeeze out on inside corners? Let's assume that you forgot to do any prep work for squeeze out. Is the only option short repetitive tedious strokes with sandpaper and scrapers? It seems like any other  sanding options leave cross grain scratches. Blue bees woodworking 2)Hi guys - Watching YouTube videos I see more and more people using dust masks / breathing apparatus these days. As an old guy ( I'm even older than Guy ) this equipment  was never available or even thought of many years ago, perhaps we would slip on some safety glasses and call it quits. I must confess a lot of my pottering around in the shed is done with just a pair of thongs ( I think maybe in the US you call them flip flops) edit: I don't want you guys thinking I'm wandering around my shed in a g-string ( thong / thongs), translations between countries varies . (I live in Australia) Anyways these days I see people wearing breathing masks / filters/ respirators that start from a simple mouth covering such as a mask to outrageously looking respirators that look like something from a Star Wars movie set. Do you guys use breathing protection ? If so, which type and your thoughts behind your choices PS: I'm older than Guy and don't own a SawStop, please answer as soon as you can as my time on earth is limited Regards Geoff   Guy 1)I have a question regarding cutting and joining 2x 45 degree angles. My question mostly applies to using hardwood, not plywood and thicker stock, like 6/4 and 8/4 for things like a waterfall style table or bench. I have the FeStool tracksaw, which is what I've used to cut my 45s. I find that it's pretty dialed in when I check the angle after the cut, but for some reason when I join the 2 45s it's always a few degrees off from 90. For what it's worth, I join the 45s w dominos. I'm just having difficulty getting a perfectly even/square joint. Don't really know if it's a clamping or cutting issue to be honest. Any suggestions on clamping or cutting that could Help w this issue? (I'm not opposed to making a table saw sled just for when cutting 45s, but that's not really an option for larger pieces) - Byran 2) Hey guys, thanks for answering my last question, I thought I'd return with another! My question is about water based finishes and HVLP spraying. I've been looking at buying a Fuji sprayer but unsure if it's suitable and also what stage to go for? I have a small shop and feel HVLP is the way to go although I've been advised to go for an airless system instead Mainly be spraying water based paint finishes, but again unsure if this is suitable with HVLP? Also use a lot of Polyx osmo oil, is this suitable to be sprayed? -Mike   Huy 1)For this question. I have a 4ft by 4ft bench.  You guessed.... 2x4 frame screwed and glued to 4x4 legs with 1 sheet of 23/32 ply wood (cut in half hence the 4x4 ft top) screwed down.  I did not glue the top.  My thought was i can change/flip them if one sides gets beat up. There is a slight crown in my bench top.  The center is a bit higher then the edges and the corners are lowest.  What are your suggestions on on flatting this out.  It become a problem mostly hand planing as the corner is lower, and the work piece tips up. Thank you, Scott 2) Hello fellas, this is Garrett Roberson from HMR Custom Woodcraft.  I have a question about building a 36" wide by 72" long wall hanging that will go up behind a dart board.  The customer wants something to hang on the wall behind a dart board to protect the drywall behind it.  I would like to make it hang from the wall so that they can change or move it in the future instead of permanently attaching it to the wall.  My plan is to use a 1/4" ply backing board, then make 6" wide x 1/2" thick panels out of walnut and lay it out in a herringbone pattern going 18" to either side from center.  Finally I plan to trim out around it to cover the ply and give it a more finished look.  What would be the best way to attach the panel pieces to the backing ply?  Should I glue up each piece, laminating it to the plywood?  Use pin nails and no glue?  Both?  Would it be best to paint the ply behind it and leave a slight gap or can I push them right up next to each other?  I just want to make sure I don't have any wood movement issues or things like that.  Any help you can give would be appreciated and keep up the great work. Garrett

Submissions are rolling in and the #rocklerhobbychallenge projects are off the chain. Plenty of time to build and enter, just create a project that relates to a personal hobby (other than building stuff) and post it on instagram / YouTube with he # https://www.rockler.com/hobby-challenge Find Us On Instagram: Chris Salamone: @foureyesfurniture Ben Uyeda: @benjaminuyeda Mike Montgomery: @modernbuilds Support The Show by Supporting the Sponsors: -Get a SawStop: https://bit.ly/3bKkMzH -Simple Cushions: https://simplecushioncompany.com -Simple Finish is back in stock: https://makerbrandco.com/

Sawstop, design tools, woodworking...art? These are just a few of the topics that Sean and Jake talk about on todays episode of the Proper Tools Podcast! --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/propertools/message

Episode 13 is upon us and Jesse is proud to be hosting Michelle and Patrick of Leather by Dragonfly.  Not only is Patrick a Marine Corps vet, these two are making some of the highest quality leather shop aprons available.  This week's Military Minute brings us One More Wave who's mission is to provide wounded and disabled veterans with customized surfing equipment and community by equipping the veteran and connecting them to their global community of surfing volunteers! Topics discussed:  Jesse finally shuts up…only briefly; leather aprons make wood workers look like true craftsman; do capes really make you super?; benefits of being in the right place at the right time; the cost of children helping in the shop; don't let Sarge touch your sewing machine; sewing machine is more expensive than a Sawstop and doesn't even stop for your finger; the crew is leather stupid; leather worker vs leather sewist; next time Mills needs a dress, Michelle can hook him up; Patrick drops too many expensive tools; thanks Jeff! (not Sarge); Margaritas and Marines, what could go wrong?; thankfully Patrick wasn't at 29 Palms when he met Michelle; don't say anything bad about Colorado; significance of dragonflies;  let Patrick fish!; definition of leather work;  Air Force timeliness;  Jesse and Wade are clearly leather experts with their extensive experience; a true custom leather apron experience; we are not positive, but we are pretty sure Sarge is not actually a smedium apron size; how to manage customer service with a custom business; considerations of designing an apron; make your website look good on a cell phone; how many cows have to die to make a 5XL apron?;  how to turn a purse into an apron; reasonable turn around times for custom work; Sarge loves a good pair of jorts; how to dominate a board meeting; look for a new Leather by Dragonfly website; using Google and social media to work for your business; finances needed to run a business; differences between leather weights; efficiency in the wood shop; make more sawdust!   Please note, we do not have paid advertisers.  Everything that we recommend comes from our personal experience.  With that said, if you want to support, please write reviews, subscribe, and share with your friends.  We would love to hear from you too, please email with any feedback and/or suggestions for our show.  We are here to serve!Guest Links:www.leatherbydragonfly.comIG: @leatherbydragonfly Military Minute:One More WaveOnemorewave.comIG: @1mwave Hosts:Jeff (Sarge) @sergeantmakerJeff (Flash)  @flashpoint_woodworksJeff (Mills) @_damn_yankee_Wade @hill_craftJesse @steele.woodworks Support the show (https://www.patreon.com/themilitarymakers)

This we we discuss options for the Sawstop table saw. Robin's looking at buying a table saw

This week Jimmy Diresta, Bob Clagett and David Picciuto talk about SawStop, safety and patents.