Podcasts about resawing

Bill Pavlak and Dan Faia join Ben to discuss inspecting historic furniture, resawing by hand, and sharpening drawknives. For more information about our eLearning courses - http://www.finewoodworking.com/elearning For more information about our Woodworking Fundamentals journey - http://www.finewoodworking.com/fundamentals Join us on our new Discord server! - https://discord.gg/8hyuwqu4JH Links from this episode can be found here - http://www.shoptalklive.com Sign up for the Fine Woodworking weekly eLetter - https://www.finewoodworking.com/newsletter Sign up for a Fine Woodworking Unlimited membership - https://www.finewoodworking.com/unlimited Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife This episode is sponsored by: Shaper Tools, makers of Shaper Origin Sean 1)Hey guys, Thanks for all of the knowledge you guys pass on over this platform, it's great being able to learn from others more well versed in woodworking than myself, especially when it seems that serious hobbyists are few and far between where I'm at. My question is about shellac, which it seems you guys talk about every  other, if not every, episode. Because I live in California, denatured alcohol cannot be purchased, even through Amazon. I've heard of people using Everclear as a substitute for denatured alcohol, but as research shows, everclear looks to be banned in California as well. What else can I use to dissolve these shellac flaked ?? Thanks again for the sick content, Tyler 2) Before I ask my question, I just wanted to thank you for your feedback on my last project. The advice you gave me about the box I was working on was perfect. Thank you! Hoping to get your input again. I have about $1,500 to spend on a bandsaw. Resawing is the priority. Bang for the buck is important, but in this case I could be convinced to set aside another couple hundred or so since I think that the "buy once, cry once" approach could be worth it. If I remember correctly, Guy has a Powermatic, and I remember seeing Sean's YouTube video about the Hammer. Not sure what Huy has. Regardless, I'm very interested in your thoughts, whether you like what you have, and whether there are other options that I should consider. Thanks again for a great podcast and for being so generous with your experience. I'm a big fan. Keep them coming! John   Guy 1) What is the most challenging project you've ever completed? What made it challenging? How did you approach the problem-solving required to overcome the challenge? Help us listeners get "in your shoes" and learn from your approach to tackling challenges in woodworking by providing a specific example from your experience. Thanks for all the insights you continue to share on the best woodworking podcast in the universe! From the other side of the wall, Brian Schmidt 2)You all are an inspiration to me and have always given honest legitimate answers to thousands of questions through the years for so many folks. I'd like to know who  was an inspiration to you as you were growing as a craftsman? Especially Guy since he came up in the trade before the internet and social media. Secondary question if you had the chance to meet or learn from one craftsman, who would that be? Brent Jarvis   Huy 1)Kind sirs- After my last couple of diatribes I'll endeavor to keep this question brief. My wife is a lovely, patient woman and for Valentine's Day I would love to make a pair of nightstands she's been hinting at for a while. Of course, I would have needed to start those two months ago to have any chance at making February 14th. But maybe for next year, with your help. I'll be making these out of some walnut scavenged from the power company clearing lines. I took two roughly 18" long x 24" diameter logs, and hand-ripped them into rough parts (1" panels, 2" leg stock) about 18 months ago with this in mind, they've been air-drying since. My conundrum is that these logs are from BRANCHES - the actual tree, still standing, is about 6' in diameter. So for nightstands, wanting a roughly 16" x 22" top, though my inclination is to use the nicest "slabs," maybe get a little sap wood in there, my gut tells me that will look nice for a year and then end up like Sean's cherry table panels, especially because they're air-dried.  In your esteemed opinions, should I further rip the slabs into dimensional lumber and then glue up panels for construction? Aesthetically, I could probably use some "traditional" furniture, my wife says the house looks like the Keebler elf village already, we have a 14' long 4" thick live edge mantle, all maple trim with walnut plugs, and I use interesting off-cuts to trim windows. That was brief, for me. Thanks Tom 2) Thank you so much for taking the time every two weeks to produce this outstanding podcast, which I have thoroughly enjoyed, and have integrated many of your ideas and tips into building my shop and developing skills as a woodworker. I am in need of an outfeed table, and also a stable, dead flat assembly surface.  I think that Huy's "MO/AT" is a terrific solution, but I have a few questions. I know that the torsion box portion is based on Ron Paulk's popular workbench, which includes the dog holes (that I really want to utilize for clamps, etc.), and the interior storage space.  Also, the removable hardboard surface, with its reference dowels, is a great idea that requires access inside the box. However, I have watched torsion box build videos by Guy, Steve Johnson, Marc Spagnolo, and others, and their designs all differ in that they are thinner, and have a much denser array of "honeycomb" grid elements, which suggests to me a greater chance of remaining dead flat.  But of course, they do not allow for meaningful use of dog holes, or interior access. So I am looking for the best compromise design, one that allows the dog hole array and all of the clamping options, but also has the best longevity for staying flat.  Is there a best height, best grid layout configuration that I can aim for? I'm thinking that between you three engineers, the perfect solution will be forthcoming. Thank you, and please keep up this very much appreciated podcast! Best, Tom Stanley  

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Guy 1) Hey guys. Question on horsepower for table saws. I’m slowly moving toward upgrading my table saw (I won’t mention the brand so Guy won’t have a reason to make fun of me but let’s just say I’m looking forward to not dying). I currently have a 1.5 hp older delta contractor saw. My question to you is what hp are your saws and if there is a major difference between 1.5 and 3 hp? I don’t work with a ton of 8/4 or bigger stock so I wouldn’t be putting thick stuff through. Thanks for any insight! Ben 2) First off just wanted to say I love the show! You are all talented and experienced woodworkers but all offer different viewpoints on how you like to get things done. My question is about table saw upgrades. I’ve had  a Ridgid R4512 table saw for about 2 years now. I enjoy it but I’m wondering about upgrades. I’m specifically thinking about dust collection and the fence. I know I want to get a zero clearance fence but also wondering about over arm dust collection? Would it be worth it for this saw? Any aftermarket over arm set ups you guys would recommend or have experience with? The other upgrade I’ve considered is a fence. I’ve found that at times I feel the fence on this saw might be a little inaccurate and it doesn’t have a lot of adjustments. Do you feel any of the aftermarket fence systems would be good for this saw? Any recommendations?  Or would you recommend possibly saving money to just get a better saw in the future if you felt like the upgrades weren’t worth making to this saw. Thanks for the time. Again, love the show. Brian Bingham Sean 1) I've seen a few people online build jointer sleds to edge joint and flatten boards. Can I actually get decent results out of a jointer sled in most cases? I assume using a jointer sled for processing a large amount of lumber would be a hassle compared to using a floor standing jointer, but what are the other limitations to using a jointer sled that I am not considering?  Brock 2)  Still loving the show. I wrote in once before and you sold me on shellac finish for small boxes, and you made me a believer. I do have a new question, I'm building a dresser for my daughter and I'm not sure how to finish the job. The main carcass and drawers are mostly plywood with oak edge banding. I made the base out of oak and the drawer fronts will also be oak which I plan to stain to let the grain show through. Do you guys normally finish the inside of the drawers in a dresser? If so, what do you use? Also, I was going to paint the carcass(it's plywood, don't freak out), so I'm wondering if you have any tips on how to get that perfect painted finish on the carcass? I don't have a sprayer, and the budget is tight, so I won't be buying a fuji anytime soon, but any other tips are much appreciated! Thanks, Scott   Huy 1) Love the podcast.  Thanks for everything that you put into it.  I recently resawed some 5/4 walnut, about 32" long, for some drawer faces (shop furniture).  My plan was to resaw this and then glue up a panel to have continuous grain down the three drawers.  The walnut had been in my shop for a few months and I got it from a reliable source, so I was pretty comfortable with the moisture, although I don't have a moisture meter.  I had milled a face and an edge square, but as I was resawing it, the two pieces bowed significantly, to the point that they would require another round of milling, and getting 3/8" to 1/2" final thickness was not possible.  Did I do something wrong, or is that to be expected when resawing something to that thickness? Chad 2) I am using a 3/8" diameter upcut spiral bit with a 1/2" diameter shank from Whiteside to make 1 1/8" deep mortises in some cherry. Whiteside says the bit is good for 1 1/4" deep. I am using the bit in the Porter Cable 690LR fixed base router. My questions: How deep a cut is recommended per pass? Is there any criteria out there for depth of cut? Dave  

Support us on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/woodshoplife Questions Guy: 1) I have a question regarding table saws. Since I still haven’t been able to convince my wife to let my buy a used Felder KF700 , what are your thoughts on other sliding table saws. I know you all have conventional cabinet saws. I’m considering getting the Grizzly G0623X as an upgrade to my Ridgid R4512. I’ve also looked at other table saws such as the SawStop and Powermatic PM2000. However with a traditional cabinet saw I’d also be considering getting the Incra Miter 5000. With that the cost ends up being more than the Grizzly. I’d be interested in hearing your guys thoughts on such options. -Ian 2) I’ve recently been looking into moisture meters and found the good ones seem to be $300 and up. I want to ask if you three use a moisture meter? If so, what do you use and recommend? Thanks for the great info on the podcast, it’s been a big help for this new woodworker. Keep up the good work.Matt in Alabama   Sean: 1) Hey guys, really enjoying the podcast. Makes my commutes far more enjoyable! My question for you is regarding resawing. I currently get by with an assortment of hand tools, a Dewalt DWE7491RS table saw with a stand that folds up on end, and a Dewalt thickness planer. While I would love to add a nice 14” bandsaw to the arsenal, I simply do not have the shop space at this moment in time. I am about to start making my wife a jewelry box using walnut for the sides and would like to incorporate a bookmatched maple top. I haven’t worked out the dimensions yet, but I will likely shoot for a panel size in the ballpark of 12”x10”x1/4”. As I see it, my options are to resaw by hand using a 22”-26” panel rip saw (need to purchase, and wouldn’t mind the workout), 10” bandsaw like the Rikon 10-306 (also need to purchase, would not take up too much valuable shop space, and would get me by until my shop space situation improves, which could be a while), or take a 20 minute drive to my buddy’s house to use his bandsaw. The major concern I have about using his bandsaw is running the risk of the resawn boards cupping due to the environmental differences between our shops. The order of my preferences are: using my buddy’s bandsaw first, followed by resawing by hand, and then buying the 10” bandsaw. Your advice is greatly appreciated. Thanks! - John 2) How flat is your outfeed/assembly table? I just made a 4’x6’ torsion box top for my outfeed / assembly table to maximize shop space. It didn’t come out as planned is if off as much at 1/64th in some places. Not sure what happened. It Seems to be flat along the length (according to my Veritas straightedge) but for some reason not acrossSeems to be about a 6” strip along one long side that is about 1/64 lower than the rest of the table. -Ray   Huy: 1) My first question is related to the different furniture styles. I hope to one day become a fine furniture maker myself so I am trying to learn more about the various styles (i.e. shaker, green and green, arts and crafts, danish/mid century modern, etc...) I feel that I am starting to get a good idea of what "defines" these styles but if you can provide any additional info on it that would be awesome.Specifically, one thing I struggle with is how wood selection relates to the different styles. I have heard statements before like "I considered making the piece out of Oak but that would take it to a more arts-and-crafts style" and I am a little unclear on how a piece can change styles based on wood selection even though the design is seemingly unchanged. -Bojan 2) I have another. Ive been woodworking for two years and i try to tackle a new skill each project. I love learning and love pumping out new pieces. My focus has been on the design and build phase. One area I can’t seem to care about is joinery. Is there anything wrong with dowel construction? I find the DowelMax gives me piston fit joints that are easy, quick and dead square. But sometimes I feel like a hack for not doing more complicated work. The tests I’ve seen show that dowels when used properly are equally as strong as M and T and stronger than dominos. Am I missing out? Can one still build “fine furniture” without M/T’s? Or should I man up and pull out the chisels? -Tanc   Social Media Picks: Guy: @marcadamsschoolofwoodworking Sean: @Pedullastudio Huy: @bernchandleyfurniture

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Leave a comment on this episode's show notes page to enter to win a one of three Shop Talk Live t-shirts! - http://bit.ly/2JzIJZb Question 1: From Damon: It’s time for me to start surfacing rough boards, but I don’t have the money to buy BOTH a jointer and a planer. I do have a plan for milling stock without the jointer, please let me know what you think: Buy a lunchbox planer and build a sled for face jointing Build a jig for ripping a straight edge at the tablesaw After face jointing with the sled and then planing the stock to thickness, the plan is to a rip a straight edge on my table using the jig and then ripping to width using the fence.           Do you know of a better way to mill to four square without a jointer? Router Setup for Edge-Jointing by Jeff Colla Video: No jointer? No problem. by Gregory Paolini Video: Quick Tip: Jointing Without a Jointer by Thomas McKenna #205–May/June 2009 Issue Video: A Planer Sled for Milling Lumber by Keith Rust Video: Turn Your Planer into a Jointer by Dillon Ryan #256–Sep/Oct 2016 Issue Tablesaw Tapering Jig is Safer and Faster by Mark Schofield #229–Nov/Dec 2012 Issue Question 2: From Granary: What are your thoughts on resawing at the tablesaw? I'm terrified of it, but was recently and reluctantly exposed to it as a method for expediting the process at the shop. But, as an intermediate woodworker, I can only see downsides to resawing at the tablesaw. While taking a class, after resawing a few times at the tablesaw, I had to request that I not do it. I felt like a total wuss, but at the same time, when I was holding the stock, and the saw was running, I just felt like it was going to go wrong. Segment: All Time Favorite Technique Anissa: Gluing on clamping blocks for miters Tablesaw Sled for Miters by Craig Thibodeau #257–Nov/Dec 2016 Issue (features miter clamping tricks) Ben: Using CA glue to glue a piece to an backer board in order to plane it thinner than 1/4-in. Mike: Using shims to perfectly offset a piece Mid-Century Credenza by Libby Schrum #261–May/June 2017 Issue Video: Get perfect reveals with a Domino by Anissa Kapsales #261–May/June 2017 Issue Question 3: Esoteric lumber questions! From Craig: Needed some 16/4 ash stock for table legs. At my local lumberyard, I selected from a bin that contained a mix of flat, riff and quarter sawn boards, I pulled what I’d thought was an ideal piece, had the yard guy write up the tag, and then proceeded to the office. I noticed on the tag that the width of my selection was ~ 12/4. I suggested that I should pay the price for 12/4, rather than 16/4, but they were unpersuaded. It was foolish of me to suggest this, as at this yard the invisible sign on the wall reads “The customer is always wrong” Love the show; Anissa “Long Pause” Kapsales is a nice addition From Cameron: When breaking down a larger board do you prefer long or wide off cuts?  After listening to the pod for years now I’m obsessed with getting the best grain selection but don’t want to waste a whole board to get one piece. As an example, I have a board that is 8-in. wide and 4-ft. long. From that I need piece that is 3-in. By 8-in. The best piece is on the edge of the board, 6-in. from the end.     Every two weeks, a team of Fine Woodworking staffers answers questions from readers on Shop Talk Live, Fine Woodworking‘s biweekly podcast. Send your woodworking questions to shoptalk@taunton.com for consideration in the regular broadcast! Our continued existence relies upon listener support. So if you enjoy the show, be sure to leave us a five-star rating and maybe even a nice comment on our iTunes page.

Recently I've been doing a lot of resawing on my bandsaw. Resawing is a great way to get thin material for a project versus wasting away the material by simply running it through a thickness planer or purchasing it pre-thicknessed (which probably means it's been sitting around for a while and is bowed or warped by the time you get it). In episode No. 491 "Resawing options" I had shared different ways I know of to resaw thicker material, but I didn't go into the details, especially when it came to my techniques on the bandsaw. And that's what we're doing on today's show, talking about how I resaw and a few tips on what I do to get my bandsaw all set up for it. Tools in today's show: Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw Kreg Bandsaw Fence Woodslicer resaw blade Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

I've been doing a lot of resawing lately in my workshop. Not for the purpose of making my own veneers instead it's all about milling thin stock for the boxes I'm making for my wife's photography clients (shameless plug...www.shuttersam.com). Resawing thick stock into thinner pieces is a great way to save materials and money too! As a beginning woodworker my assumption was that thin stock, anything thinner than 3/4", was a rare item and either you settled for the warped and over-priced stuff at the home center or you repeatedly ran the stock through a thickness planer until it was the dimension you desired. Then one day the light bulb went off (actually I read an article) and I discovered resawing. In today's episode, I'll share with you a few options I've experimented with when it comes to resawing. I've tried it on the tablesaw and I've had some success with a handsaw, but my preferred way is on the bandsaw. And even that has changed slightly over the past year. Regardless of which route you choose for whatever reason; limited tools, experience or self-loathing, learning to resaw can open a whole new set of options for you in the shop and with your projects. Items mentioned in today's show: Kreg Precision Bandsaw Fence - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Kreg Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Magswitch Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com Wood Slicer Resaw Band Saw Blade - Highland Woodworking BANDSAWBLADESDIRECT.COM Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Recently I've been doing a lot of resawing on my bandsaw. Resawing is a great way to get thin material for a project versus wasting away the material by simply running it through a thickness planer or purchasing it pre-thicknessed (which probably means it's been sitting around for a while and is bowed or warped by the time you get it). In episode No. 491 "Resawing options" I had shared different ways I know of to resaw thicker material, but I didn't go into the details, especially when it came to my techniques on the bandsaw. And that's what we're doing on today's show, talking about how I resaw and a few tips on what I do to get my bandsaw all set up for it. Tools in today's show: Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw Kreg Bandsaw Fence Woodslicer resaw blade Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

I've been doing a lot of resawing lately in my workshop. Not for the purpose of making my own veneers instead it's all about milling thin stock for the boxes I'm making for my wife's photography clients (shameless plug...www.shuttersam.com). Resawing thick stock into thinner pieces is a great way to save materials and money too! As a beginning woodworker my assumption was that thin stock, anything thinner than 3/4", was a rare item and either you settled for the warped and over-priced stuff at the home center or you repeatedly ran the stock through a thickness planer until it was the dimension you desired. Then one day the light bulb went off (actually I read an article) and I discovered resawing. In today's episode, I'll share with you a few options I've experimented with when it comes to resawing. I've tried it on the tablesaw and I've had some success with a handsaw, but my preferred way is on the bandsaw. And even that has changed slightly over the past year. Regardless of which route you choose for whatever reason; limited tools, experience or self-loathing, learning to resaw can open a whole new set of options for you in the shop and with your projects. Items mentioned in today's show: Kreg Precision Bandsaw Fence - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Kreg Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Magswitch Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com Wood Slicer Resaw Band Saw Blade - Highland Woodworking BANDSAWBLADESDIRECT.COM Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

This is easily the coolest tool I have ever made.  It has changed the way I work wood and changed what wood I buy at the lumber yard.  After using this saw for more than a year I decided to sell my bandsaw because this frame saw outperforms my 14" bandsaw when it comes to resawing.  Here is a look at the saw in action.

This time I'm visiting a blacksmith friend who is making some cool hardware for my upcoming frame saw build.  I take a quick look around his shop and watch as he makes some of the saw parts.  Thanks to Vince of Artisan Iron Designs for this peek into the blacksmith's world.

I've been doing a lot of resawing lately in my workshop. Not for the purpose of making my own veneers instead it's all about milling thin stock for the boxes I'm making for my wife's photography clients (shameless plug...www.shuttersam.com. Resawing thick stock into thinner pieces is a great way to save materials and money too! As a beginning woodworker my assumption was that thin stock, anything thinner than 3/4", was a rare item and either you settled for the warped and over-priced stuff at the home center or you repeatedly ran the stock through a thickness planer until it was the dimension you desired. Then one day the light bulb went off (actually I read an article) and I discovered resawing. In today's episode, I'll share with you a few options I've experimented with when it comes to resawing. I've tried it on the tablesaw and I've had some success with a handsaw, but my preferred way is on the bandsaw. And even that has changed slightly over the past year. Regardless of which route you choose for whatever reason; limited tools, experience or self-loathing, learning to resaw can open a whole new set of options for you in the shop and with your projects.

Episode 76 Resawing for Hidden Treasures

Resawing spalted maple panels on the bandsaw using Laguna's Resaw King. Gluing up the doors and creating the ebony plugs for the case. Fitting inset doors.

Resawing spalted maple panels on the bandsaw using Laguna's Resaw King. Gluing up the doors and creating the ebony plugs for the case. Fitting inset doors.