BBQ State of Mind

A lot of things went away in our daily lives since the coronavirus pandemic took hold. A craving for barbecue was not among them. Smoked meat fans have been thinking about their favorite barbecue joints since we’ve been living stay-at-home lives – hungry for fatty brisket, pull-apart pork ribs and slick, peppery sausage. J.C. Reid and Greg Morago talk about the struggles of barbecue operators during the pandemic. We also touch on rising beef prices and what that means for your two-meat plate; vacuum-sealed barbecue to-go; and how barbecue dining will change as Texas moves to reopen restaurants.     Support the show.

Dear BBQ SOM listeners: Co-host Greg Morago is alive and well, hunkered down at home, and itching for Houston's BBQ joints to get back to (a new) normal as the next few weeks unfold. Until then, enjoy this interview with Greg from our Coronavirus Chronicle podcast. Follow on Apple Podcasts, Spotify and other podcast apps.  Recorded before the unveiling of Gov. Abbott's plan to gradually reopen the Texas economy, Ferrill's chat with the Chronicle food editor highlights the need for a safe re-emergence of Houston's restaurant and bar scene and how chefs and owners might pull it off. Support the show.

We hope you have found the series of Coronavirus Chronicle bonus episodes informative and entertaining. Follow the show on Apple Podcasts. Click subscribe — it's free — to receive fresh episodes daily.  The Rev. Hannah Atkins Romero, rector of Trinity Episcopal Church in Midtown, talks about the sense of loss experienced by Houston’s faith communities as an Easter Sunday without church services approaches. Plus: a special performance by April Sloan-Hubert and the Trinity Jazz Ensemble. Support the show.

Today, we're sharing an episode of "Coronavirus Chronicle" with listeners. Previous episodes at available on Apple Podcasts. Houston Chronicle photojournalist Marie De Jesús illuminates the balancing act between keeping a safe distance and capturing the intimate, human moments that reveal just how profoundly life in Houston has changed. Support the show.

Today, we're sharing an episode of our new podcast "Coronavirus Chronicle" with BBQ State of Mind listeners. Listen to previous episodes here. Houstonians know all about hurricanes: Wind speed, the dirty side, the European models. But what do we need to track the coronavirus? Angela Blanchard discusses that and more with the Houston Chronicle’s Lisa Gray. Support the show.

In the realm of Mexican-infused Texas barbecue, JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ has managed to make a name for itself, even without an official brick and mortar location. The pop-up restaurant run by pitmaster/taquero Joseph Quellar and his partner Cindy Conde has distinguished itself by the depth of flavor and authentic technique they bring to dishes such as pork carnitas, brisket, barbacoa, costra tacos, arroz con pollo and carne guisada. Hosts J.C. Reid, Alison Cook and Greg Morago discuss the JQ’s Tex Mex BBQ game plan. Support the show.

As Houston Chronicle executive editor Steve Riley said recently in a letter to readers: Quite suddenly, your lives have changed. Your health, or the health of someone you love, could be at risk. Your job seems shakier than just days ago. Your church isn’t having services, your favorite bar has closed, and the gym has locked its doors. And there’s no baseball, no March Madness. At the Houston Chronicle, we feel it, too. So as an introduction to our new daily podcast, host Ferrill Gibbs talks to Riley about the differences between the coronavirus crisis and other recent catastrophes, and about the unique challenge that covering it presents to local newsrooms. Support the show.

Listen to the Houston Chronicle Editorial Board's impassioned plea to Houstonians coping with the coronavirus -- "Stay home!" -- as expressed by editorial board member Monica Rohr. https://www.houstonchronicle.com/coronavirus/ Support the show.

Barbecue teams from across the globe provide international flair and stature to the Houston Rodeo's Championship Bar-B-Que Contest. The crew sat down with smokers from Australia, Canada and England to talk about barbecue culture in their respective countries, the growing international interest in U.S. barbecue traditions, and their own barbecue traditions and foodways.  Support the show.

Houston Chronicle barbecue columnist J.C. Reid says there’s much to love about the new frontier of smoked meat that he’s calling, “the capital of creative ‘cue.” In just two years the craft barbecue movement has found fertile ground in Katy and Richmond, that has quickly grown into a hotbed of creative Texas craft barbecue. We’re talking about dishes such as smoked brisket and smoked turkey enchiladas as well as smoked bone marrow at Brett’s BBQ Shop in Katy. And smoked brisket lasagna from Daddy Duncan’s BBQ in Katy. And smoked octopus and smoked duck from Harlem Road Texas BBQ in Richmond. Chris, Greg and Alison join Chef Ara Malekian of Harlem Road, chef Randy Duncan of Daddy Duncan’s, and pitmaster Brett Jackson of Brett’s BBQ – as they talk ‘cue over an abundant table at Harlem Road set out with Malekian’s superlative smoked meats. Support the show.

With apologies to Fats Domino, they've got a crazy way of BBQ'ing there. Chris and Greg chat with Tyler Harp, who is Kansas City’s premier (and perhaps only professional) practitioner of Central Texas-style barbecue. He made pilgrimages to places like Franklin and Snow’s and taught himself how to smoke brisket.  Support the show.

Chris and Alison sit down with Buffalo Bayou Brewery owner Rassul Zarinfar and chef Arash Kharat to discuss how they infuse the flavors of Texas barbecue, and specifically Houston barbecue, into their beer and food menus.  Support the show.

Pitmaster Eddie Ortiz details his story of an energy sector worker whose weekend barbecue passions turned into a regular gig. Founded in 2017, Eddie O’s is now a staple for craft barbecue aficionados and among the top-tier barbecue practitioners in Houston’s growing craft barbecue movement. He’s known as much for his brisket, ribs and sausage as he is for his barbacoa tacos (on tortillas handmade by his grandmother) served with a side of his famous “magic beans.” Support the show.

Chef/owner of the El Topo food truck, Tony Luhrman, and Culinary Director Mike Serva chat with Chris and Greg in about how the duo moved into the Houston food truck scene having met while working at P.F. Chang's in San Antonio. The conversation turns to The Butcher's Ball, a charity event benefitting Urban Harvest. (October 20th, y'all.) Tony was the Golden Cleaver winner last year serving El Topo's signature barbacoa taco. The pair are opening a restaurant of the same name in December. Support the show.

Third-generation North Carolina barbecue pitmaster Sam Jones preaches the whole hog gospel; his family’s Skylight Inn is one of America’s great heritage barbecue institutions. Jones was among the pitmasters and chefs invited to cook at the 2019 Southern Smoke food festival, his second time appearing at Chris Shepherd’s culinary extravaganza featuring smoked, wood-fired and Southern-infused foods, where he joined Chris and Greg for a chat. Support the show.

The proliferation of food halls in Houston is being framed as a new phenomenon. But, as food writer David Leftwich told Chris and Greg, innovative culinary enterprises — flavored by immigrant cultures —have marked downtown Houston since the Allen brothers first pitched their tent on the bayou. Leftwich, who is president of the advisory board for Foodways Texas, also talks about how dining halls, butchers and barbecue have tended to become synonymous with emerging urban marketplaces. Support the show.

The owners of Roegels Barbecue recently went on a pilgrimage in the American South seeking knowledge about cooking whole hogs. They share their favorite spots from the trip with Chris and Alison – and their plan to offer whole-hog specials at their Houston barbecue joint. Support the show.

Galveston island may not be known as a craft barbecue hotbed. But the opening of Buck’s Barbeque Co. – a Central Texas-style barbecue joint from a pitmaster who has built a considerable fan base in Houston -- may change that view. Housed in the former Farley Girls Café on the east end of the Island, Buck’s is the culmination of Jim Buchanan’s quest to land his own brick-and-mortar restaurant after years of pop-ups and running food services out of someone else’s kitchen. Support the show.

H-E-B’s director of culinary development, Randy Evans, and director of restaurants, Kristin Irvin, discuss how the beloved Texas supermarket chain developed its in-store barbecue business with Chris and Greg. Support the show.

Jamie and Karen Fain, owners of beloved Meyerland barbecue joint Fainmous, talk with Chris and Greg about their Tennessee-style smoked meats (a rarity in Texas!) and how a slow-and-steady business plan has led them to a new project in Sawyer Yards opening this fall. Support the show.

Dr. Stephen Pustilnik’s desire for better autopsy knives led to a side career as a knifemaker whose customers include top chefs and Texas pitmasters — and members of his own medical community.  Support the show.

Steve and Sherice Garner tell Chris and Greg how they built their business from a small trailer to two brick and mortar restaurants in a few short years. Support the show.

Chris and Greg turn the tables on the host of Kevin's BBQ Joints podcasts and YouTube interviews, going deep into the country's growing appreciation of smoked meats. Support the show.

Pitmasters Jim Buchanan of Buck's Barbeque Co., Arash Kharat of Beaver's and Ara Malekian of Harlem Road Texas BBQ discuss pairing barbecue and wine with Alison, Chris and Chronicle wine columnist Dale Robertson. Support the show.

With solid restaurant experience and a hard-earned degree from University of Houston’s Hilton College, Randy Duncan decided to go all in on his own business. He got his start tent catering, feeding wrestling fans in Katy and now he’s about to build a big new barbecue joint. He shares his story with Chris, Alison and Greg. Support the show.

Brett’s Barbecue Shop has Katy all fired up.Chris, Alison and Greg chat with owner and pit boss Brett Jackson about his newfound barbecue stardom, and his path that includes a rare apprenticeship at the famed Louie Mueller Barbecue.  Support the show.

The competition route is how a good number of amateur barbecue enthusiasts wind up smoking meat for a living. Joey Victorian is among those who made that transition. He shares his story with Chris, Alison and Greg. Support the show.

Brothers Robin and Terry Wong, with partner Quy Hoang, grew a following by smoking meat at a karaoke bar. Now they’re opening their own restaurant. In the new Bellaire digs, the trio discusses their path with Chris and Greg. Support the show.

Chris, Alison and Greg are back, and ventured one (big) block away from the office to interview David and Kurt Craig at one of the longest-running smoked meat operations in Houston. Part saloon and part barbecue joint, Luling City Market was birthed during a 1980's oil boom and continues to thrive thanks to a loyal clientele, an overall interest in Texas barbecue, and an adherence to a simple menu based on the barbecue trinity and key sides. Support the show.

Owner-pitmaster Wayne Mueller continues his conversation with Chris, Alison and Greg, delving into the history of Louie Mueller Barbecue and Texas barbecue at large; brisket technology; his time in Houston, including what he learned from working with Jim "Mattress Mac" McIngvale; and his plans to open a Louie Mueller Barbecue outpost outside of Taylor. Support the show.

Originally posted Aug. 4, 2017 — Texas barbecue royalty and third-generation owner-pitmaster Wayne Mueller joins Chris, Alison and Greg in the studio. A fount of knowledge about Texas barbecue and its history, Wayne talks about improvements he’s making at Louie Mueller, his siblings, why he doesn’t like the term pitmaster, and the weight of taking over the “cathedral of smoke.” Support the show.

The Chronicle crew hit the road last year to chat with chef/pitmaster Ronnie Killen. From the dining room at his acclaimed Killen's Barbecue in Pearland, he shares his thoughts about Texas Monthly's best barbecue joints list (hint: he wasn't thrilled about not making the top 10), cooking perfect brisket and possible expansion plans. We hope you enjoy this replay. Chris, Alison and Greg will be back together in a couple weeks.  Support the show.

For nearly 18 years, Tin Roof BBQ has been a stronghold for barbecue in north Houston. Owner/pitmaster Ronnie Webber, a 31-year Houston Police Department veteran, and his protégé son, Brek, discuss risk and longevity with Alison, Chris and Greg. Support the show.

Willow Villarreal had many friends in both his professional (working for Fox Sports) and personal life (as a promoter and booker of punk and heavy metal music). But he found a new community – just as caring, equally passionate – when he decided to switch careers to pursue barbecue. The proof is the people’s choice Golden Cleaver award he’s snared twice in a row at the Butcher’s Ball, the festival that showcases local farmers and ranchers who uphold ethical and sustainable practices and the chefs and pitmasters who use those products.  Villarreal’s got a new barbecue food truck – Willow’s Texas BBQ -- and is making his home at Shady Acres Saloon, 1115 W. 19th, a rambling bar and backyard party space that fits well with his casual barbecue menu he executes with his fiancée, Jasmine Barela.  Houston Chronicle BBQ State of Mind hosts (barbecue columnist J.C. “Chris” Reid, restaurant critic Alison Cook and food editor Greg Morago) talk to Villarreal about his quick, determined rise in the Houston barbecue community.  Support the show.

The veteran owner/pitmaster at Roegels Barbecue Co. discusses the trials and tribulations of his barbecue career with Chris, Alison and Greg. Support the show.

Vaughn, one of the most prominent barbecue voices in America, discusses the problem with plant-based “meat,” Houston’s Top 100 Restaurants list and other Texas barbecue matters with Chris, Greg and Alison. Support the show.

The Brooklyn barbecue king and Tennessee whole hog master, in Houston for the star-studded Southern Smoke fundraiser, have stories for Chris and Greg. Support the show.

It’s the most wonderful time of the year: barbecue festival season! Chris (who organizes a festival himself)and Greg discuss upcoming events with Will and Nichole Buckman of CorkScrew BBQ, who promise a surprise. Support the show.

Lance and Boo Eaker worked in IT consulting and fashion design respectively, but now they’re trying to make a go of it in the barbecue world. They join Chris and Greg in the studio to discuss food-truck life and their mesquite-smoked dreams. Support the show.

In two short years, The Pit Room in Houston has become one of Texas’ top barbecue joints. Owner Michael Sambrooks tells Chris and Greg how he did it. Support the show.

Committee chairman David Stone and division chairman Jimmy Shuford join Chris, Alison and Greg to shed light on what makes one of the country’s biggest barbecue cook-offs tick. They also share details about what will change for the 2019 event. Support the show.

Chris and Greg travel to Henderson & Kane, a general store in Houston’s most historic neighborhood, to visit with owners John and Veronica Avila. The Avilas are known for the craft barbecue they serve at a food hall downtown; now they’re adding a second outlet. Support the show.

Ray Busch and Herb Taylor, owners of the old-school Third Ward barbecue joint, share their story – and their new seafood sausage – with Chris, Alison and Greg. Support the show.

What goes into producing a barbecue event that 2,300 smoked-meat lovers attend? Chris, and his Houston Barbecue Festival co-founder Michael Fulmer, discuss the details with Alison and Greg. Support the show.

CorkScrew owners Will and Nichole Buckman tell Chris and Greg how they took their business in Spring from cult trailer truck to brick-and-mortar in the elite realm of top Texas barbecue joints. Support the show.

How does the barbecue operation work at Minute Maid Park, home of the World Series-winning Houston Astros? Chris, Alison and Greg sit down with the crew of Jackson Street BBQ to find out what it takes to bring one of the city’s best barbecue experiences to the ballpark. Support the show.

Gatlin’s BBQ in Houston puts its name on airport dining as IAH opens Q, a first-of-its-kind barbecue restaurant in Terminal E. World-class barbecue takes flight at George Bush International Airport. Gatlin talks about Q ‘cue with BBQ State of Mind hosts J.C. Reid, restaurant critic Alison Cook and food editor Greg Morago during a busy afternoon at Gatlin's Ella Blvd. location. Support the show.

The co-owner of Caboose BBQ in Alvin, Texas, discusses the role of women in barbecue with Chris and Greg. Timmons is a former pitmaster who has spent many nights tending a firebox, but now creates new dishes at the barbecue joint she co-owns. Support the show.

Hurricane Harvey hit on the exact day Jim Buchanan was set to start serving his barbecue to customers at Lucky’s Pub in the Heights. Lucky’s wound up taking on 15 feet of water, and Jim had to recalibrate. Chris and Greg chat with him about Harvey, his Central Texas-style barbecue and how he got into smoking meats, from backyard warrior to competition cooker to pop-up pitmaster to, hopefully one day, opening his own joint. Support the show.

Chris, Alison and Greg hit the road to visit with the co-owner of the highly regarded business that’s an unlikely merger of chocolate shop and barbecue joint. They discuss some of the inventive menu items (barbecue soups!) coming out of the Tejas kitchen, and Moore’s new Moberg smoker, “The Dude.” Support the show.

Chris, Alison and Greg continue their conversation about their year in barbecue, exploring up-and-coming pitmasters and restaurants in Austin and Houston – and the burgeoning “underground” scene in Los Angeles. Support the show.