Podcasts about hobbyiest

You have questions and comments about the simple thickness planer sled? I have answers; although I can’t guarantee they’re the ones you want to hear. Thanks to everyone who wrote in!

For the past several months while I've been on the road for work my wife Samantha has been tackling a kitchen project. I've been helping out where, and when I could, but for the most part it was all her sweat and effort going into it (and before anyone asks, no, I didn't build any cabinets or new doors for the kitchen.) In fact, aside from removing a small partition wall, along with tearing out the countertops and backsplash, the project was really more of a "facelift" than remodel. But now that it's completed, the one project Samantha requested all along was a set of live-edge shelves for where a cabinet once sat. I doubt I'll do much to document their installation; it's pretty straight-forward. Probably the most difficult part of the build will be carefully drilling through ceramic tile to install them. Of course with that said now, finding a way to mill the 12" wide boards I'm planning to use could've been an even bigger struggle if it weren't for my thickness planer sled. On today's episode, we're breaking out the thickness planer sled first featured in the Tall Dresser build and putting it to use again.

I can't believe this is happening to me, but I'm getting bit by the turning bug and it's obvious it's contagious! Now that my time in the shop is currently less than it use to be, I really want to be able to knock out a project or two from start to finish, and the lathe is probably one of the one tools where this is entirely possible. In today's episode I'm literally turning some scrap maple into a small bowl. What'll I use it for? Probably to hold keys, or spare change, or more likely M&M's! In this episode I made quite a few references to the Easy Wood Tools' gouges and detailers I was using (pretty much the entire time.) If you're interested in purchasing them or just checking them out or yourself, you can find them at Woodcraft.com Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Who doesn't need a little more storage space? Whether it's in the woodshop like me, or any where else throughout your living space, small cabinets help to tuck away the clutter and keep things organized. In this episode we're making a simple, small cabinet from supplies you can easily pick up at just about any home center. For this one I purchased a few "handi-panels" which are pre-glued and dimensioned boards that eliminate most of the milling we'd have to perform to get them ready for cutting and assembling. I also purchased some adjustable "euro-style" hinges and a simple wooden knob for the door. For joinery, it's all about the "blind-rabbet" joint in the corners to assemble the box, but something as simple as pocket-hole joinery or even tongue and groove would work fine too. Of course you could take a step further and use dovetail joinery or such to spruce it up even more. The only real "decorative" feature on this simple cabinet is the raised panel on the door. Originally I planned to leave it a flat panel, but then I wouldn't have had a chance to free-hand the extra wide chamfer all around the edge with my skew rabbet plane. Regardless of what you do with your small cabinet, this is a quick and easy project perfect for a single-day or leisurely weekend build. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Over the years there have been a lot of questions from new woodworkers. One of the most frequent is "should I buy a full set of chisels or just one or two?" The easy answer is "YES get a full set" but that's not always the correct one. In fact, if I had to rebuild my entire shop from the ground up and retool it, I'd probably avoid an entire set of chisels and instead concentrate on adding one or two high quality versions as needed. In today's episode I share with you the advice I like to offer new woodworkers (and some experienced ones) when it comes to purchasing chisels. With so many different tool manufacturers, sizes and even specialty chisels to choose from, it's hard to decide where to get started when buying your first (or next) chisel(s). My advice is pretty simple, and it can easily transfer to other tools and accessories in your shop later down the road. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

In the previous episode of this two part series "550 Simple Cabinet Construction Pt 1" we started the construction on a pair of overhead cabinets for a laundry room. The cabinets are about as simple in design and construction as possible. A box with a face frame and a pair of full-overlay doors to enclose them. The only detail that could be remotely described as "ornate" is the ogee profile routed on the rail and stiles of the door frames. As far as I'm concerned the simpler the better when it comes to cabinet design. Why? For two reasons; 1) it makes construction a whole lot easier and more predictable, and 2) an entire wall filled with highly ornate cabinets would actually be it's own kind of special craziness. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Don't tell my wife, but after all these years of her asking if I'd ever consider building new cabinets for our kitchen I'm finally getting around to doing it. Except they're not for the kitchen, and they're not even for our house. Instead, it's a small build for a client. The good news is Samantha shouldn't be too upset by it for two reasons; 1) I'm getting paid to build them, and 2) Once I've built these, I'll know how to build ours even better if we still want to replace the existing ones! In today's episode we're getting started on the construction of a pair of overhead cabinets for my client's laundry room. The case construction is pretty straight forward, and made all that much easier because I'm using a blind rabbet joint which makes assembling them so much easier. As a matter of fact, that's what we'll be discussing and demonstrating in today's episode - milling the blind rabbet joint and then assembling the case from start to finish. Then in the next episode we'll move on to milling and constructing the face frame and the two sets of overlay doors to wrap up the project. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

The folks over at Benchcrafted really know how to make tools. Jameel and everyone stand by the products they make so we don't have to worry about whether or not they're going to hold up in our shops. I think it has a lot to do with the fact that they're woodworkers too. They don't just make tools to sell them, they make tools to use them! It's very fair to say most of us associate Benchcrafted with their outstanding bench vise equipment and plans, but they also make a cool little tool that I picked up while attending the St. Charles, IL Woodworking In America Conference...The Skraper. The Skraper is more than a handy little tool for removing hardened glue from tight corners of your projects. I use mine for a number of different tasks, and it has yet to fail me!

In today's second episode of the "Shelves and drawers" build we move on to the drawer construction. Just as we saw with the first episode, large projects can appear complicated but when you take the correct approach they can be completed quickly, easily and more importantly accurately. By ganging similar cuts for each component, you can take advantage of a single setup on your tool to eliminate unnecessary steps. Not to mention it also eliminates the possibility of making miscuts too. http://youtu.be/bk8Vj8ZLR6I Download Video Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

In part three of the "Shelves and drawers" build we tackle the construction of the solid maple bases. All four pieces stand on the same style of base, so except for the lengths of the support beams between the tall shelving units and the short drawer units, we can once again gang up and make similar cuts and actions all at once. And even though the bases will, for the most part be hidden out of sight, that's no reason to not take a few minutes to design something that looks nice. You never know when someone will take a look! Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

It's a new year, but we have a little work to finish up from the previous year. As promised, today's episode is the wrap up to our "Shelves and drawers" series. In part four we complete the "Shelves and drawers" by building the drawer fronts from solid maple, attaching the bases to each of the units and then adding all the final touches from painting to hardware. A lot of you had questions about using MDO; its workability, paintability, cost and more. Rather than addressing each of your questions as they come in, I tried to include all of them in the video. Hopefully I answer yours, but if not, don't hesitate to contact me. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Today's episode is the first of a series answering many of the questions and topic suggestions you the audience have sent me over the last 6 years. I frequently get questions regarding choosing tools, stock, projects and great feedback on things we've already covered. Unfortunately I haven't had a chance, all that often, to take these questions and turn them into the great content they'd make. So while I'm currently finishing up a couple of project builds, I thought we'd do start tackling the list of audience inspired episodes. In today's show, a listener asked about choosing a shoulder plane. He asked specifically about two models, the Stanley No.92 and the Ron Hock Shoulder plane kit. While I prefer not to make specific recommendations on which tool to purchase, I do have an opinion on the features that make a good one and things to consider when thinking of purchasing. I'd love your feedback on today's episode and your suggestion for this listener and also the many others who have asked very similar questions about shoulder planes also. Leave a comment in today's shownotes or drop us a line mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com. And if anyone noticed the video seems a little off, I've been experimenting with using my iPhone as a video camera...it still needs a little tweaking, but not too bad. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Back in episode 470 I shared with you the construction of a "super simple" wooden box I've been making for my wife's photography business Shutter Sam Photography. I mentioned in the episode that since filming the original footage I had started to streamline the construction process. Just like with any project where you find yourself repeating the build over and over (think cutting boards, jewelry boxes, pens, etc.) you discover little shortcuts that can help to cut the production time down, but not affect the quality of the results. As I've mentioned before, I really appreciate tips and suggestions from you the audience. And once again, you've come through for me with a great tip that I'm using from this point out when building the boxes. Don (no last name in the email) suggested I checkout an article over at Fine Woodworking Magazine it's titled 2 Fast Ways to Build a Box and was written by Bill Nyberg. On page one of the downloadable PDF (it does require a membership to the digital media) Bill lays out a quick and easy two cut step that creates the lips of the two sides. Essentially the same thing I've been creating, but with my method I was spending way too much time setting it up. This new method cuts my setup time in HALF. Checkout today's show to see what I'm talking about. Just to let you know, I don't cover Bill's entire article, just this one little part that has made a huge difference in how I'll be cutting parts for more of these boxes and maybe even other projects down the road. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

This week we return again to the stack of listener suggested topics and questions that have come in over the years. After bringing the 14" Steel City band saw into the basement workshop, many of you had questions specifically about the riser block I installed. The obvious benefits of a riser block to a 14" bandsaw is the increase in height. Normally the maximum resaw height on a saw this size is about 6" at most. By adding a riser block system you increase that significantly. What does that mean? It means all those wide boards you'd love to bookmatch for stunning panels are now possible, it means you can resaw your own veneers from WHICHEVER species of wood you want, it means all sorts of options. But with a variety of options available that also means there's some limitations too. While not necessarily significant anytime you alter a machine from it's original configuration, regardless of whether you use original manufacturer's kits, you're still going to run into hiccups that may require the machine to need a little more tweaking before using. I'd love your feedback on today's episode and your suggestion leave a comment in today's shownotes or drop us a line mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com. And if anyone noticed the video seems a little off, I've been experimenting with using my iPhone as a video camera...it still needs a little tweaking, but not too bad. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Today we start a new build project. We’ve (and by “we” I mean my wife) been in need of a full-length mirror in our bedroom for quite a longtime now. We (this time I mean “us”) finally purchased one not to long ago and I intended to hang it behind the door in our bedroom. Even though it’s beveled on the edges it just looked to plain, so we were trying to decide if it should be hidden away in a closet? It didn’t take very long to think about it, but what we really needed was a nice frame to set it in and mount in position. So I headed to the basement and decided it was time to break into my stash of aged cherry. Now that we have the backstory of today’s project, let’s get started building it. This is a two part build video, starting with the basics of ripping and crosscutting the stock to its dimensions and then moving into “handcut” mortise and tenon joinery. Then next week we’ll wrap it all up. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

On today’s show we’ll continue where we left off last week on the construction of the Cherry Mirror frame I recently built for my wife. As I mentioned in the last episode we purchased a full-length mirror for our bedroom and after getting it home I decided it was just a little too plain for our tastes. Thankfully I’ve been holding on to a stash of Cherry for a while now and this seemed to be the perfect project to break it out for. Last week we ripped and crosscut the stock to size (I also admitted to messing that up and having to re-draw the plans to accommodate for the mistake), we also cut the mortise and tenon joinery we’ll use to assemble the project. This week we rabbet an edge on the backside of the frame to support the mirror. That sounds easy, but I chose to use just the tablesaw and I had to create stopped rabbets for the stiles. Then we chamfer the edges of the rails and stiles, but not end to end, instead we create a nice little stopped chamfer on the router table. We glue it all together and then add some shop made walnut pegs to help reinforce the mortise and tenon joinery. This was a great little project that could easily be completed in a weekend and leaves you looking like a hero to someone. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

After the last episode of Samantha's mirror frame project many of you wrote me to ask how I installed the mirror in the frame. It was a SLIGHT oversight on my part not to cover the topic, so I'm coming back with a third episode to remedy that mistake. While we're talking about how I did it, I'll share with you some other potential options for taking care of the same task. My own technique was a little unconventional, so it's important to see a few that are more traditional. Once we've covered the topic of installing the mirror in the frame, I wanted to address a couple more questions that came in regarding the construction process. A few of you wondered about options for cutting the rabbets using other techniques than the single blade method and a couple of you wanted to know about another way to create the stopped chamfers. Hopefully we'll answer your questions and concerns in today's show. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers [adrotate banner="5"]

Today's episode is the first in a two (maybe three) part build series featuring the Hock Smoothing Plane Kit from Hock Tools. Previously we had such success building the Hock Shoulder Plane it only seemed like a great idea to come back and build this kit. Just like before, all the materials for successfully building a completely usable plane were included, all you need to add is glue and some shop time. In less than a weekend you can have a great tool that will quickly become one of your favorites. In part one, we tackle the assembly process. While it's very straight forward there are a few key tasks that need to be accomplished to ensure the rest of the setup goes as planned. So follow along and see why this kit maybe your entry into the world of hand planes. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

On today's episode we wrap up the construction of the Hock Smoothing Plane Kit from Hock Tools. Last week we assembled the pieces, glued it all up and set it aside to dry in the clamps. Today we start the work to make it a fully functioning hand plane. I'll walk you through one method of truing the sole to make it flat, which is extremely important for it to work the way it's suppose to. We'll shape the body to a size and feel that not only makes it unique from other planes on my shelf, but feels right in my hands. And then we'll take it for a maiden voyage and discuss a little bit about adjusting the blade of a wooden bodied plane vs the metal bodied versions with mechanical adjusters. If you've built a Hock Smoothing Plane or something similar, I'd love to hear about it. Send pictures if you have any available, I may even post them so others can see your work. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Without a doubt, home ownership is probably one of the biggest catalysts to propel people into woodworking. Even if you grew up with a woodworker or took shop classes in school, being a homeowner reignites that spark and grows into a passion for tools and creating projects intended for in and around the home. Most of the time that spark occurs because once we take ownership of a house, we immediately want to make it our own. Whether it's replacing trimwork, adding crown mouldings, maybe even tackling some repairs to unsightly fixtures or features that would scare off some people. Whatever the task it suddenly means it's time to get some tools and dive headfirst into those projects. Recently a friend of ours approached me with a problem she's lived with for several years, a broken louver door to a bedroom closet. As soon as she walked in the door with it I had flash backs to when we bought our first house. It was a project I couldn't resist, especially because I knew it was one I would have been intimidated by all those years ago. On today's episode, join me on a trip down memory lane as we set aside some of our regular woodworking shop projects and tackle a little home repair. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

We're now about halfway through Safety Week 2012 and hopefully you've found that one or two golden nuggets you'll carry with you every time you step in the shop. Regardless of what it is, the most important thing is to take what you've learned this week and turn it into the kind of habit that becomes second nature. Because it's those kind of habits that one day could be the difference between a close call in the shop or a trip to the Emergency Room...or worse. Woodworking to me is the kind of past time and lifestyle that is probably best learned by observation and learning from our mistakes. No one makes perfect dovetails the first time out and no one WON'T have a close call or two in the shop over their lifetime. The real responsibility of every woodworker when it comes to safety is to develop a set of best practices they can count on to greatly minimize the chance of an accident occurring. Because the truth is, there will never be a way to completely eliminate them. Last year while working on a project for the show, I had one of those accidents that could have been life altering. I made a number of mistakes that in hindsight leave me feeling embarrassed and angry at myself. On today's episode you'll see footage from this accident. I won't lie, it's graphic so please consider that before you watch. But the big lesson for today will be about what went wrong, what I could've possibly done to prevent it and hopefully you'll learn from my mistake so you don't make one just like it or worse. As I mentioned in the episode, here's a link to the video at Popular Woodworking Magazine featuring Bob Lang's Trim Router base CLICK HERE. Don't be surprised if it shows up on the show sometime. Episode available for download in the following formats: |SD Video||720HD Video| Help support the show - please visit our advertisers [adrotate banner="5”]

Following up on the last episode, where I revealed recent changes made to my shop to improve work flow and efficiency...at least in theory...,today's show is a closer look at some of the "accessories" and little shop helpers I've added all around it. We've all heard the cliche "it's the little things that matter". In this case, it really IS the little things that make all the difference...in how I feel about working at my various tools. As much as we want to justify buying all kinds of new fangled jigs and shop accessories the one issue we run into eventually is where to put them, and more importantly, how will we find them when we need them the most? Being organized shouldn't just refer to having a set of well thought out plans to build a project. Being organized should also refer to where and why things are laid out also. I don't know the statistics off hand but I think it's safe to say that many of the shop accidents that occur regularly each year, both big and small, probably have to do with someone not taking the extra time to use a safety accessory simply because it wasn't close at hand. Surprisingly, it doesn't cost a lot of money to get well organized, nor does it take a lot of time. The accessories I talk about in today's episode took me longer to figure out exactly where to place them than it did to purchase OR put them in their new homes. You don't have to go as far as building fancy cabinets or caddies (although that could be fun) when you decide "now I'm ready to be organized", being organized is a state of mind and a way of life. The payoff at the end of the day will make a huge difference in how we work in the shop. Of course the second half of being organized is remembering to put things back in their place...but that's for another episode! Featured items in today's show: Magswitch and accessories Bench Dog Feather-Loc Featherboard with Bar Bench Dog Push Bloc Push Stick Tormek Rotational Base Micro-Jig Grrripper Fast Mount Shelving System All of these are also available at Amazon.com too! Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

At the heart of my workshop's redo is the massive Bench Dog Router Table system I reviewed with ToolSelect.com - see the review HERE. Compared to previous router tables in my shop, this version is a beast! Of course it's not really a fair comparison, given its predecessors were all bench top models, but that's beside the point. The Bench Dog ProMax RT router table system provides woodworkers with a number of great options for customizing their own version. The system in my shop is a cast-iron top on an enclosed cabinet, but it could easily be a phenolic top instead. Or I could choose to have either one of those tops on an open stand. For me, what really makes this new router table system so invaluable in my shop IS the cabinet. The enclosed cabinet has enough storage space built into it that it's become my all-in-one router center. All my router bits, router accessories and even my routers can be stored in it and there's still room for more. What it takes up in floor space, it makes up for with overall storage space…I actually have some empty shelves…I wonder what I can put on those? The beauty of the system is the fact it has options! And speaking of options, one that will be making a dramatic change in my operations at the router table is the addition of a router lift. In the realm of router table upgrades this one is like going from a bicycle to a jet plane! See my review of it on ToolSelect.com HERE. Everyone who's used a router table knows the frustration there can be when dialing in just the right height between cuts. Having a router lift allows you to raise or lower your router from the top of the table where you can easily see what's happening versus the old method of reaching underneath and often blindly making the adjustments. How many times have you done this only to realize the bit is much higher or lower than you wanted? Router lifts are pricey, and to be honest I always had one on my list but I never considered it a necessity as far as I was concerned. But after using this one just for some test cuts and demonstration purposes, I wouldn't hesitate recommending it get bumped up to the top of the list for anyone who uses their router table frequently. The accuracy and ease of adjustability it provides will dramatically help with router operations in my shop. And then there's the fence system. Regardless of which table top, base or whether you choose to go with a router lift or traditional insert plate, if you don't have a good fence system it won't matter. The Bench Dog Fence system is worth the money! Links for items mentioned in today's show: Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT Bench Dog Tools 40-150 ProLift Bench Dog Featherboards Kreg PRS3090 3" Dual Locking Caster-Set Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Over the years, I've done my fair share of experimenting with sharpening. From the early days of sandpaper on glass to waterstones and now on to my Tormek, I had one goal in mind...to create the scariest sharpest edge anyone could ever imagine!!! I won't claim to have achieved that dream yet, but I've managed to create edges that were sharp enough to draw blood with very little effort, usually also at the worst possible moments too. In today's episode I'll show you some of the tools and equipment I've used over the years to accomplish this goal. It's not an episode on HOW TO SHARPEN but instead an episode on options for WHAT TO SHARPEN WITH. From sandpaper to power sharpening and a few in between, I'll show you what I've tried in the past, what I'm using now and a little bit of why on each method. Just like our woodworking, sharpening methods are a personal thing, there's nothing wrong with experimenting until you find that one technique that's right for you. Tools mentioned in today's episode: Tormek Sharpener & Accessories Veritas MK II Honing Jig Waterstones Shapton glass stones Abrasive grit powders DMT Diamond Plates Granite surface plates Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

I've been doing a lot of resawing lately in my workshop. Not for the purpose of making my own veneers instead it's all about milling thin stock for the boxes I'm making for my wife's photography clients (shameless plug...www.shuttersam.com). Resawing thick stock into thinner pieces is a great way to save materials and money too! As a beginning woodworker my assumption was that thin stock, anything thinner than 3/4", was a rare item and either you settled for the warped and over-priced stuff at the home center or you repeatedly ran the stock through a thickness planer until it was the dimension you desired. Then one day the light bulb went off (actually I read an article) and I discovered resawing. In today's episode, I'll share with you a few options I've experimented with when it comes to resawing. I've tried it on the tablesaw and I've had some success with a handsaw, but my preferred way is on the bandsaw. And even that has changed slightly over the past year. Regardless of which route you choose for whatever reason; limited tools, experience or self-loathing, learning to resaw can open a whole new set of options for you in the shop and with your projects. Items mentioned in today's show: Kreg Precision Bandsaw Fence - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Kreg Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com or Highland Woodworking Magswitch Resaw Guide - Woodcraft.com Wood Slicer Resaw Band Saw Blade - Highland Woodworking BANDSAWBLADESDIRECT.COM Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

As table saws go, I've had an opportunity over the years to use one from each of the three body types; benchtop, contractor and cabinet. While they're all tablesaws and do the same job, the specifications of each are very different. Where benchtop and contractor saws are portable in their own ways, the cabinet saw is one you probably won't be throwing in the back of a trailer or truck and hauling around from site to site. In fact, the cabinet saw is a beast of a saw and is designed with the serious hobbyist and professional woodworker in mind. I've been using my granite topped Steel City cabinet saw for a couple of years now and have been loving the features and specifications that came with it. But just recently, an opportunity came up to try another make and model of cabinet saw that has some upgraded features and specifications I didn't think we're all that important at first, but now that its here I can't wait to test them out and share the results with all of you. In today's episode I'm introducing my brand new SawStop PCS175-TGP236 1.75HP 10" Professional Cabinet Saw. In the interest of complete transparency, the opportunity to try out this model of saw and all the accessories and upgrades that accompany it was in exchange for a sponsorship and advertising deal on my website and in the show. I'm under no obligation what-so-ever to gloss over any warts I may think the saw has as I use it over time. As of the time that I'm posting this episode, I haven't had an opportunity to put the saw through it's paces yet. But that should be remedied very shortly as we get ready to start a series of projects that will have plenty of cuts being made on the saw. Then in about 6 months, I'll come back and give it as thorough a review of what I've experienced with the saw as I possibly can. I don't expect all of you to be as excited about this opportunity as I am, and I imagine some of you will express your opinions about it with me rather loudly. But I'm interested in hearing what your concerns are regarding the specifications when compared to other manufacturers and maybe even some of the myths you've heard too. So without further delay..."Hello New Saw!" Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

ENOUGH TALK ABOUT THE NEW SAW, LET'S BUILD SOMETHING WITH IT!!! I'd love to tell you it would be something über cool, ultra modern and hip...but then it wouldn't be on this show if it were. Instead, the first project on the new saw is something FOR THE NEW SAW; it's a very basic, no frills crosscut sled. [caption id="attachment_6965" align="aligncenter" width="300"] Basic Table Saw Sled[/caption] The entire sled is built from scraps and cutoffs laying around the shop, the only thing I didn't make myself was the Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bars. I maybe doing this on the cheap, and can easily just toss it on the burn pile and start all over, but why worry about loose miter bar guides when I can spend the money on these reusable and adjustable manufactured ones that take all the worry our for me? (In full disclosure, when we gave away a few pairs of these over the summer, I snagged myself a set from the pile...don't worry...Micro Jig already knows) If you follow the show on either Facebook or Google+ I mentioned getting ready to build one and asked what the ones look like that you've built. A number of you responded with some really interesting ideas, both simple and WAY tweaked out. I'd love to see and hear more of your creations, please send them in and I'll put together a gallery on the website to share with everyone. Email them to mattsbasementworkshop@gmail.com. Items mentioned in today's show:Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bars Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

On today's show I'm walking you through the steps of building a very basic, utilitarian shoe organizer. And I'll admit it, I obviously didn't pay close enough attention to the warning signs when things started to go bad! It started out great. The components were milled in near record time, even with just having 30 minutes here and there during the week. I just never thought I'd be the victim of a glue-up catastrophe on this project! But even if the glue-up had gone perfect, this is the kind of project that gets tucked away in a closet or in the backroom where it gets used more than it gets seen. Which isn't a bad thing! Sometimes we don't want our projects just admired from a far, WE WANT THEM USED. This project was also just the kind of thing that let us take the new SawStop table saw out for a spin to see what we think about it. So far? It's a really nice table saw! And in the show today I even take a moment to demonstrate how easy it is to swap out the brake cartridge when switching from a regular 10" blade, to a 8" stacked dado set. The construction of the shoe organizer included a few joinery techniques; mitered corners, thru dadoes and even the use of dowels. In hindsight, it was a glue-up nightmare, but when tackled with a little strategy (apparently better than the one I used) it's possible to get the job done correctly.

I'm sure you've heard the trope "The cobbler's children have no shoes"? Well the same thing in the Vanderlist household can be said about furniture. Around here it feels like I'm always making something for someone else's house (or more than likely for my shop). For a long time now my wife Samantha has been asking me to build us a matching set of bedside tables. I keep asking if she wouldn't prefer something bigger and more awe striking like a new dining room table. But while that would be nice, a bedside table that actually has room to set a book AND a lamp seemed to be a higher priority. So, starting on today's episode I'm finally building those bedside tables for her. The design is simple. Straight lines, no embellishments and something with a drawer and a shelf. Samantha also asked that they be painted too. That's fine with me, I have a decent stash of Poplar that's been waiting to be used for quite a while now. I'll get us started by roughing out the stock that will be the 20"x18" tops and the 16"x16" shelfs. These dimensions are a little too big for my jointer and thickness planer, so it's a great excuse to break out the hand planes and flatten them by hand.

Welcome back to part 2 of the Bedside Table Build. We again have some wide panels that will make up the sides of the tables and they need to be milled and glued up. But rather than tackling the task by “going ALL hand plane” on the wide boards like last week I decided to mix it up a little and use both hand planes AND power tools. In other words, living up to my claim to be a “hybrid woodworker”. The task is a pretty simple one. It’s a matter of knocking down the high spots of the concave side of the board with my Jack plane until it lays flat and doesn’t rock. Then it’s over to the thickness planer to do the rest of the work. Typically it takes more time to run it through the thickness planer than to knock down those high spots, but of course the board I chose for the video was the only one of the 8 pieces that decided to be difficult and took much longer than the others. The other tasks we complete in this episode are gluing up these wide panels, including a quick touch up of the edges with my Edge Trimming Plane and then prepping the stock that will become the legs for each table. In the next episode, we’ll start working on the joinery and begin to assemble the entire project from that point forward. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

At this point in the project I've milled all the components I need to get things started for the joinery work, so it's time to move on. The first joinery task to tackle is cutting dovetails for joining the top front and back rails to the legs. But before moving on to the dovetailed ends of the rails, I need to cut them to length and then define the shoulders of the dovetails. This is a simple task, but when you're not paying close enough attention to your setup things can go wrong, as you'll see in today's video. As for the dovetails themselves - because they're not thru dovetails, and instead half-blind dovetails, removing waste material can be a little tricky. Rather than sticking to my usual technique that involves using a dovetail saw and a chisel or two, for some reason I decided to try something different. I'm a huge advocate of "trying something different" every now and then, but this time I should've stuck to my tried and true method. In the end the result was good, the joint is solid, but the route I took to get there was a little too windy. Plan on seeing a special excerpt video coming later this week where I demonstrate my tried and true technique. [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-497BedsideTablesPt3885.mp3" title="MBW497"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers [adrotate banner="5"] [adrotate banner="26"]Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

The last few episodes of the Bedside Table build have been all about milling of components for the project and playing around with joinery techniques. It's time to start the final assembly. The first step is attaching the dust frames and shelves to the sides. We have a lot of joinery options to get the job done, but in my opinion the one that's right for this particular project isn't a complicated one, it's dowels. Years ago I bought my first dowel jig and feel in love with the simplicity of the joint. Unfortunately I hated the dowel jig! So eventually I abandoned the technique for something else. Recently though I bought a better jig and have started to use dowels in more of my projects. The result is a happy woodworker! In the line up of joinery techniques dowels appear to get a little more respect than biscuits or pocket hole joinery but aren't on the same level as mortise and tenon or other "traditional" joinery. Seems a shame considering how strong the joint can be, not to mention their versatility in location. Tools used in this episode: Wide capacity economy dowel jig Bora Pistol Grip Clamps 24" Veritas Aluminum straight edge Veritas Dovetail Saw Wentzloff & Sons Carcass Saw Benchcrafted Moxon Vise Bessey Bar Clamps Kreg K4 Kit Kreg Micro Jig [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-498BedsideTablesPt4873.mp3" title="MBW498"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

The holidays have really set me behind schedule on completing this set of bedside tables. Luckily though, I've been promising Samantha I'd build them for a few years now, so she's use to the delayed schedule. In today's episode I'm concentrating on getting the drawers built. Nothing fancy about these boxes. Rabbeted ends on the sides to attach to the front and back of the boxes. A simple groove for the plywood bottom. And then eventually a false front for the drawer face (a topic I'll discuss in an upcoming episode). I know many of you will be asking why there's no dovetailed boxes or why I decided to use basic drawer slides vs homemade or a more expensive version. The fact of the matter is simply that the boxes will be closed the majority of the time, and while I love dovetailed joinery, I don't feel the need to use it all the time when there's other options. Speaking of options, the one point of controversy I'm anticipating from today's video will be surrounding my single blade method of cutting the rabbets. I won't go into details about it here, but I stand by method and will simply state once again; it works, it's safe and if you're not comfortable with it don't do it. Tools featured in today's episode: Micro-Jig Grrripper [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-499BedsideTablesPt5865.mp3" title="MBW499"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

The end of the "Bedside Tables Build" is upon us. I've once again been working on them a little longer than I had anticipated, but I have a slew of excuses for that...some actually true too! In today's episode there's a lot to cover; from assembling the body to assembling the drawers. There's dimensioning and attaching the tops and drawer fronts to a few other things in between. In other words, this is a busy episode! But in the end, the final result is a couple of matching bedside tables for me and Samantha. Finally something that has plenty of room for our stack of bedside reading (iPads and the occasional magazine), a lamp, and maybe even an alarm clock? Not to mention a drawer for hiding midnight snacks and more!!! Tools mentioned in today's show: Knew Concepts Fretsaw Veritas Low-angle block plane [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-500BedsideTablesPt6278.mp3" title="MBW500"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Today's episode is the first of a two part series on the construction of a solid Maple table base built for our friend's daughter. The tabletop is a pre-manufactured top with a Maple edge banding, so we won't be covering the construction of it. In this first part I'll demonstrate creating a template pattern for re-creating the four legs I need and then I'll take the stock from rough to finished. All four legs are curved and attached at 90º to each other and when designing them, our friend's already had a specific shape in mind, so it was a matter of duplicating it as close as possible. After a little trial and error, I found a quick and easy to achieve the curves without having to buy expensive drafting devices. I'll talk a little bit about it in the beginning and hopefully you'll find it useful. [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-501MapleTableBasePt1768.mp3 " title="MBW501"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Please help my fundraiser to reach it's new goal! Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

In today's episode we're wrapping up the two part series on the construction of a Maple table base for a our friend's daughter. Previously we touched a little on the overall design of the legs and then spent the rest of the episode creating the template to duplicate the legs with our solid Maple stock. I used the template to not only rough out the legs on the material but I also used it to finesse them on the router table by flush trimming the oversized pieces down to their finished sizes. In this episode we're picking up where we left off last time and starting to assembly the project into the finished base. The hard part is all done, so this should be straight forward and pretty uncomplicated. But you know me…I can't let anything be that uncomplicated. In the process of drilling holes for dowels to use in the assembly I make a small mistake that really can't be ignored. So part of this episode is devoted to how I fixed the mistake and was able to get things back on track to a great ending. In today's episode we're wrapping up the two part series on the construction of a Maple table base for a our friend's daughter. Previously we touched a little on the overall design of the legs and then spent the rest of the episode creating the template to duplicate the legs with our solid Maple stock. I used the template to not only rough out the legs on the material but I also used it to finesse them on the router table by flush trimming the oversized pieces down to their finished sizes. In this episode we're picking up where we left off last time and starting to assembly the project into the finished base. The hard part is all done, so this should be straight forward and pretty uncomplicated. But you know me…I can't let anything be that uncomplicated. In the process of drilling holes for dowels to use in the assembly I make a small mistake that really can't be ignored. So part of this episode is devoted to how I fixed the mistake and was able to get things back on track to a great ending. [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-502MapleTableBasePt2357.mp3" title="MBW502"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

I swear I wasn't waiting until the warm weather was just around the corner before I posted this content, but that's exactly what it looks like! So many of our fellow woodworkers give up woodworking in the cold months of winter because their shops are located in unheated or under heated locations. Be it a garage, a shed or a large out building like a pole-barn when it's cold out even the most passionate woodworker is thinking more about burning their stock to stay warm versus building with it. But the biggest concern isn't so much about how to heat the shop as it is on what the long cold winter months do to our lumber and our tools. Let me start by saying I'm no expert by any means on this topic. My shops have always been in climate controlled locations of my house. But that doesn't mean I'm immune from the cold. And considering there's the occasional project or two that requires me to temporarily move into my under heated garage to complete them, it only makes sense I learn a little something about the environment I work in. So in today's episode I cover some very basic tips on winter woodworking. Starting with some common sense tips on lumber storage, moving on to ideas to help minimize rust building up on your metal surfaces and even a suggestion or two about cold-weather glue-ups and finishing. Today's episode is as a cold as ice (not really, but it sounded cool in my head). Tools and resources mentioned in today's episode: Book I vaguely referenced Sandor Nagyszalanczy's "Setting Up Shop: The Practical Guide to Designing and Building Your Dream Shop" HTC Large Machine Cover Magnetic Tool Cover Link to USDA "Storage of Lumber" Handbook [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-503WinterWoodworking328.mp3" title="MBW503"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

You've seen the pictures and some of you have even been asking how I did it? After all, jewelry might be an amazing way to win over the love and affection of your significant other. Or it could simply be a way to wow your friends who still think the only thing you can do in your shop is "claim to be building a piece of furniture" but they can't understand why it takes days, weeks or even months considering the guys on TV do it in 30 minutes or less. Back around Valentine's Day 2013 I posted a blog entry titled "Fastest way to her heart is with wooden jewelry?" and ever since then I've been down in the shop experimenting with scraps and even buying some exotic stock to try and make new pieces that EVEN I can't believe came from me. In today's episode I share with you some of the basics to wooden ring making I've discovered over the past few weeks. I'll demonstrate the first technique I tried and the one I'm having a lot of success with currently. It's so simple and you probably already have all the tools on hand. Tools mentioned in today's post include: Auriou #6 rasp Rikon 70-100 Mini Lathe Forstner bits Milwaukee 49-56-0051 1-1/8-Inch Super-Tough Bi-Metal Hole Saw IRWIN 226340 4-Inch Drill Press Vise ***UPDATE*** Since recording this video I've been experimenting with a couple more options, which appear to be easier and more successful, for creating these beautiful rings. Keep a look out for follow-up posts and maybe even a follow-up video too? [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-504WoodenRings353.mp3" title="MBW504"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

On today's episode I'm sharing my full review of the 110V, 1.75HP SawStop cabinet saw I received as part of an advertising deal back in October of 2012. As I had mentioned in the previous video "Hello New Saw", I wanted to spend a little time with the saw before I shared my opinions about it. And that's exactly what I do in this episode. It's been a little over 6 months and I've had a chance to build a few projects with the new saw, this has allowed me to get a "real world" feel for whether a saw like this is worth the investment for a home woodworker or serious hobbyist. Of course what would a SawStop review be without firing off the braking system? So we do that today too, in fact we do it TWICE just to show off that flesh isn't the only conductive material that could set off the system. Interested in purchasing a SawStop or SawStop Accessories for your woodshop? You can find them at the following locations: Highland Woodworking Woodcraft.com Amazon.com [haiku url="http://blip.tv/file/get/Mattvan-505SawStopMeTheFullReview291.mp3" title="MBW505"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Thanks to a generous donation of some amazingly beautiful Teak boards from a friend of the show, I have an opportunity to work with an species of wood I probably would ordinarily not use. It's not that I don't want to use different species, I just have a few that I'm readily familiar with and just haven't had a reason to step out of my comfort zone before. So the first thing I'm building with these gorgeous boards is a...shoe rack! Tools featured in today's show: JET Benchtop Oscillating Spindle Sander with Spindle Assortment, 110-Volt 1 Phase SawStop Cabinet Table Saw Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade Bora Pistol Grip Clamps Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bar System [haiku url="https://archive.org/download/506TeakShoeRackPt1/506%20Teak%20Shoe%20Rack%20Pt%201.mp3" title="MBW506"] Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

In part 1 of the Teak shoe rack build I milled this amazing Teak stock my friend Jim sent. In today's episode it's time to wrap up the milling process by taking the components over to the router table and profiling the edges on all the pieces followed by prepping them for the mechanical fasteners. The final result is an amazing project that my family will put their shoes all over, soaking wet and nasty. But since it's made from Teak I'm not worried about it all. Tools featured in today's show: Fisch Drillbit/Countersink Set Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT Complete SawStop Cabinet Table Saw Steel City Tool Works 14-Inch Band Saw Wood Slicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade Bora Pistol Grip Clamps Micro Jig ZeroPlay Guide Bar System Download Video Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

AHHHH SUMMER!!! The time of year that I find it's hardest to get myself into the shop to work on projects, but yet I can't fight the need to be in there. So to help ease my burden of guilt I like to do smaller projects that are easily accomplished at night or for a few hours on a weekend. Today's project is exactly the kind of "small project" I'm talking about. Plus another great thing about it is the fact I'm using up some of my smaller stock and scraps that ordinarily become firestarter for our summer bonfires in the backyard. Completely based on the dimensions of a typical cardboard six-pack, the six openings are the perfect fit for standard 12oz glass "beverage" bottles. The bottles fit perfectly in the openings and are very stable when you're carrying them from one location to another (not to mention, depending on what stock you make it from, you'll look pretty darn cool too!) And unlike the standard cardboard six-pack, the handle is much friendlier on the fingers and you could easily adjust it so it rises up further from the bottles for EVEN more comfort. Today's episode is the first of two parts. We'll cover a little bit of the milling and dimensioning of the stock along with much of the straight forward joinery I used to make assembly easy and strong. Tools featured in today's episode: Veritas Small Router Plane Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

It's time to wrap up the construction of the wooden drink carrier (six-pack) so we can all get back out in the sun and enjoy the rest of our summer (or for our friends in the southern hemisphere…prepare for the summer). Today's episode we pickup at the bandsaw where we'll shape the middle divider and then continue from there to create some finger holes for easier carrying and then on to final assembly. There's also a little discussion about materials for building your own and possibly some dimensions for carrying larger bottles than the standard 2.5" diameter size used for this particular version. If you decide to make one or something very similar, please share your pictures and results. I know I'd love to see it! Tools mentioned in today's show: Veritas Spokeshave Gorilla Wood Glue FISH Forstner Bits Bora Pistol-grip Clamps Woodslicer Resaw Bandsaw Blade Download Video Download HD 720 Video Download Audio Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

While working on the new wedding boxes for my wife's photography business www.shuttersam.com (shameless plug I know...because I love her) I discovered that the 1/8" diameter straight cutting bit I was using to route an important groove didn't seem to be adequately surrounded by my smallest diameter throat plate in the router table. No big deal really, but I didn't want to take the risk of the material catching or splintering or tearing out or...whatever could go wrong. So better to be safe than sorry, I broke out a customizable insert plate and made one that would work perfectly for this task. Tools featured in today's post: Bench Dog 40-300 ProMax RT Complete Bench Dog Tools 40-150 ProLift Router Adjustment System Bench Dog 40-136 Zero Clearance Insert for Large Bench Dog ProPlate and ProLift 1/8" Downcut Spiral Bit Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Every year I try to help my wife's business by making wedding boxes for her clients. They're simple and plain and are made to hold a few pictures and maybe a CD or other archive of the images from their happy occasion. This year we changed things up a bit, and went with a new design. One that's easier for me to build and batch out, often using not much more than some smaller scraps and off-cuts that normally might be thrown out or burned in a campfire. The joinery for this easy to build box is also quite simple. Grooves, rabbets and a miter are all there is to it, all joinery that can be accomplished on a table saw alone or with a variety of tools if you prefer. Simple and understated, this box can be built completely for utilitarian purposes or dressed up for something more elegant. Enjoy! Tools featured in today's video include: Bessey Web Clamp Kreg Bandsaw Fence Whiteside Router Bit Steel City Tool Works 14" Band Saw Bench Dog ProMax RT Bench Dog Feather-Loc Double Featherboard Milescraft Push Stick SawStop Cabinet Saw Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Shortly after the release of the most recent video featuring the new photo boxes I'm making for my wife's business I received an email from an audience member asking if I was concerned about the expansion and contraction of the box's bottom panel effecting the metered corners of its sides? In truth, not really, or at least not nearly as much as I would be if this was a different project and with larger dimensions and maybe even different materials. Of course, it's not just the dimensions and materials that make confident against the wood movement having drastic effects on the boxes, there's also a few other things too that make me feel confident about my decision. In today's video I discuss these topics in the hopes that I answer the audience member's concerns and maybe some others from folks who were thinking along the same lines. Items mentioned in today's post: Timber Check Moisture Meter Lee Valley Wood Movement Reference Guide Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

Once in a while I have a few crosscuts that exceed the capability of my table saw miter gauge or my crosscut sled and since I prefer to use my table saw for crosscutting versus my miter saw, because of it's accuracy and versatility, I found a technique that works and is super accurate. There are any number of ways to attach an extension arm to my sled so I could clamp on a stop block to make multiple cuts that are repeatable and equally accurate, but they can get in the way and or even just clumsy. This technique is as simple as they get and can be easily adapted for use on just about any miter gauge or crosscut sled and requires nothing more than a pencil. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

I have no doubt in my mind that the chance of me felling a tree and then taking the time to hand hewn it is pretty much zero. But that didn't stop me from attending one of my favorite classes this year at Woodworking in America 2013. The opportunity to sit in Roy Underhill's class "TIMBER!!!" to see him demonstrate an aspect of woodworking that is so far out of my scope of accomplishing, was worth every second I sat in the lecture hall. I will admit there was some morbid curiosity as I wondered if something would happen when he started swinging the axe for real, but what I discovered instead was that the more Roy swung a tool, the more I learned. The more Roy sent wood chips into the audience, the more I understood how and why it might be important to learn how to hand hewn my own log…although I still have no idea when I'll ever do it. Perhaps you're into timber framing or just really want to try something like this yourself…because you have a fireplace mantel just waiting to be made out of that pesky tree in the yard?…attending this class was a great way to get my experience at Woodworking in America 2013 off and running. Thanks Roy! Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

At the top of my "woodworking things that intimidate me to tears" list you'll find woodcarving somewhere in the top 5, definitely far below "magnifying glass pyrography". Considering I took the plunge not so long ago and faced my fear of woodturning, and currently I'm alive and not noticeably maimed (thanks to tricky camera angles at least), I figure it's time to start knocking one or two more off the list. Thankfully this year Mary May returned to Woodworking in America and taught a couple of classes on woodcarving. Before I go any further, if you're not already familiar with Mary she's an amazing woodcarver who's taken the time to not only teach her art form at conferences like this or in the occasional class at a woodworking school but more importantly (as far as I'm concerned) she's taken the next step and opened an online school too. But more about that below… The two classes Mary was teaching this year were "Carving Life into Leaves" and "Linenfold Carving". The footage for today's post is from the linenfold class and has been edited to show more of the actual tool work and even Mary's body positioning at the bench to give you a feel for what you could learn if you were to sign up for her online classes. This isn't meant to be a sales pitch by any means, but considering what I learned just from sitting in the audience and watching I can only imagine what I'd learn if I were to start following the lessons with my tools in hand repeating the action she's teaching on the videos. Do I see myself becoming a full on woodcarver down the road? Probably not. But it would be really cool to feel confident enough with my tools and a basic knowledge of the craft to occasionally embellish a component or two on a project! For more information about Mary May including her online school visit www.marymaycarving.com. And if you join, you'll also find this linenfold project as one of the many available lessons to watch and learn about. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers

This year I decided I really wanted to take a class or two on topics that normally I wouldn't be drawn towards. In the past this usually meant something to do with turning, carving a linenfold or leaf and especially nothing to do with hand-hewing a log. It's not that I don't think they're worthwhile topics, it's just up until now my interests at Woodworking in America have been more about bench tools or projects that I see myself doing as soon as I got back to my shop. You know…topics I'm kind of familiar with already. But this year I obviously threw all that out the window! It's pretty safe to say that the majority of my classes went against the grain of normalcy for me. And I can honestly say it was worth it! For today's video it's a visit to Peter Follansbee's "Carved Spoons". I have no idea when I'll ever carve my own spoon(s), but after only about 30 minutes of watching Peter split a log, then shape it into a spoonlike blank, I was hooked. Unfortunately I didn't make it all the way through the class, so I don't have the finished spoon footage to share (it was lunchtime and someone else was buying that day…), but I think you'll quite easily get an idea of what a great class this was. Thanks Peter for keeping me entertained and actually sparking an interest in me for something I still can't believe I'm looking forward to trying sometime in the near future. To learn more about Peter and to checkout all the things he has going on that might be something you'll be looking forward to trying out too, visit his blog at pfollansbee.wordpress.com. Help support the show - please visit our advertisers