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Dan Varian is an elite boulderer from the UK and the cofounder of Beastmaker. We talked about a finger strength test that Dan had me do, how to measure the load distribution across our fingers, silver bullets in finger strength, how to activate lazy fingers, why Dan is focusing his training on high angle crimps, his recommendations for me, and wrist training for Fontainebleau.Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!And check out EP 22 with Justin Brown to learn more about how to use Rhino products!Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can BeCheck out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie CalhounBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dan-varianNuggets:0:08:04 – Building dens out of cushions0:10:36 – Dan's resume0:13:12 – Moving from Sheffield, playing the training game with his limited time, and detail over vagueness0:18:05 – How the strength flows through your hand, and the starting point of people's training0:19:06 – Climbing as a fledgling sport, having plenty of room to improve our training quality, and Dan and Aidan's attention to detail0:20:33 – The value of training with like-minded people, and the many different rock types in the UK0:23:28 – Blunderbus vs rifle, and mentoring Aidan Roberts0:26:40 – Aidan's pinkie strength, and why the sling test is a valuable assessment tool0:32:36 – Who Adian is, and an introduction to high angle crimps0:35:49 – Silver bullets in finger strength, and specializing in specific styles0:39:25 – Clarification of the high angle crimp position0:41:34 – The sling test, and my takeaways from my results0:45:24 – Dan's interpretation of my results, and my two lazy fingers which are lacking silver bullets0:49:07 – My goals as they relate to finger training0:52:32 – My climbing background and how that explains my results0:55:36 – A pinkie mono demonstration from Dan0:59:23 – Three-finger drag, wrist movement, and different grip positions for different rock types and routes vs. boulders1:03:28 – What Dan thinks I should focus on with my finger strength for sport climbing1:04:29 – Summary of the takeaways from my finger testing, and Dan's guesses about my climbing based on the numbers1:07:09 – My pinkie in the half crimp1:10:02 – How to activate lazy fingers on the hangboard, and why the Beastmaker hangboards look the way they do1:12:35 – Dan's strength on three-finger drag, why it doesn't apply to small crimpy holds and boulders, and how we are all working on our own things1:14:56 – Dan's advice for me to strengthen my pinkies and middle fingers1:17:37 – How my finger strength compares to Dan's, and what he is working on with his finger training1:19:21 – Why Dan thinks I should train my lazy fingers on the hangboard instead of lifting off the floor1:30:24 – Dan's recommended protocol for me to activate my lazy fingers1:35:52 – Stealing ideas from arm wrestlers, and why Dan loves Fontainebleau1:38:53 – Meeting Tim Doyle in Font1:39:57 – Focusing on weaknesses vs. strengths, and trying to tick the county1:46:35 – Dan's top finger training exercise recommendation1:48:11 – Dan's thoughts on wrist training1:53:01 – Meat hooks and kneebars1:59:19 – Why Dan wishes he had focused on building an athletic foundation as a younger athlete2:03:34 – Dan's training goals, his thoughts on the campus board, and goal boulders in the Lakes2:13:13 – Potential topics for a round 2 (let us know what you want to hear more about!)2:15:02 – Dan's final thoughts on splitting the grip and waking up lazy fingers2:16:49 – Dan's goals for me with my finger training
In this episode, we look at the the follow up to Dead Weather's first album, sophomore drop Sea of Cowards. This album is more or less of the same ilk to the former album, showing iterations of what works and even what doesn't about the group. Nonetheless, this band was known for incredible live shows and electric energy.The next album we look at is the solo debut of Jack White. Just before 2011's Blunderbuss was released, the White Stripes announced they would not be coming back. This meant that Jack White was no longer tied to band with self-imposed limitations -- he was the conductor, and fully able to expand his ideas. It would become clear that there is a difference between a song written as Jack White for the White Stripes, and the songs Jack would write in the studio with studio musicians. Jack would be criticized for leaving his Little Room, but this moment was earned time and time again, and the album has some of Jack's best moments.--Jack White rose to legendary musician status via his breakthrough band, The White Stripes. Coming out as a blues rock, punk aesthetic garage rock band with child-like drummer Meg White, The White Stripes paved the way for a lot of acts to come. As their success grew, Jack White branched out into other projects, including the classic rock inspired "super group" The Raconteurs, and Led Zeppelin-spirit revival, hard as nails "super group," The Dead Weather. As Jack gained momentum elsewhere, The White Stripes came to an end, leaving room for Jack White to explore a solo career. Throughout his solo career, he started honing his comfort material -- country, blues, and fuzz rock -- moving toward new grounds with experimental noise, high tech production, and unexpected plot twists.Tyler, being a conseur of pop and knower of all things music, and Greg, a Jack White super fan, have a lot to say on Jack White, including a plethora of insights and context into the creation of this music, the cultural impact of Jack White and his embedded philosophies, and the growth of self and artist.
Join Keith Condie as he takes a journey on the BlunderBus! Keith shares honestly and openly about a long on-going leadership mistake that affected his work, his life and his family. He also explains 'The Voice From Outside', which transformed everything.If you would like to talk to Ed about Pastoral Supervision, visit the website hereOr you can email Ed at edward@generationleadership.com.auI'd love if you would rate and review this podcastAnd thanks for being on the journey on The Blunder Bus!
Yup, gun control again. The second amendment was written in the days of the Blunderbus, If you could hit a barn door at 50 feet you were an ace shot. Is it time to revisit it. Trump plays a trump by throwing out a jouno from his press conference. Now that is a first!
The blunderbus(s) is loaded. All aboard for episode 73 of the AFTN soccer podcast. Your usual co-hosts Michael McColl and Steve Pandher look at the latest happenings in Vancouver Whitecapsland with a Dallas post game show. More home points dropped against the FUDs, that's five points dropped in the last two home games, which is simply not good enough if Vancouver Whitecaps want to be a playoff contender. We look back at the 2-2 draw with Dallas, the mistakes that led to the visitors' two goals and the inability to convert more than two of the 30 chances created. Who played well? Who had a game to forget? What's missing and what can be done to change things? We look at all that and more. We also hear post game audio from both locker rooms. For Vancouver, we have some frustrations from head coach Carl Robinson, goalkeeper David Ousted, goalscorer and goal misser Darren Mattocks and captain Pedro Morales. Dallas coach Oscar Pareja shares his thoughts on the game and we hear from rising (hopefully) Canadian star Tesho Akindele. And there's still time to get some tweets from our listeners on where the Caps need to strengthen as the number one priority and a look at the heartbreak that was in store for the U23s in the PDL Western Conference Final Four. Have a listen!
Once a week Kaziah and Belthal take you through the trials and tribulations of the Needs a Hug guild on Ravenholdt US. Weekly guild news, World of Warcraft news ,commentary and special guests bring the unique flavor and insanity of the Needs a Hug guildies to the airwaves.WEEK IN WARCRAFTWOW NEWSWarlocks get Gender Choice for there Demonshttp://wow.joystiq.com/2011/04/14/warlocks-getting-male-and-female-versions-of-all-demons/Blizcon Tickets going on sale May 21st and 25thhttp://wow.joystiq.com/2011/04/12/blizzcon-2011-tickets-on-sale-may-21st-and-25th/GUILD NEWSNew 85’sTwo new level 85’s this week looks like both Rheya and Manamoni made it to the level cap, gratz guys and now you can chase the Epic Loots Epic Loots! Ya. On Wed we downed Argaloth and stole the good stuff that he was hiding under his prison issue mattress. As always it seems to be nothing but PvP gear but I will tell you the 362 gear is still nice even if it looses some stats to resilience. This week we have had two lucky winners. The Vicious Gladiator's Silk Trousers.went to Pemmoria and Drwhat landed the Vicious Gladiator's Band of Cruelty. Grats Guys! New Voice Server for Needs a HugNeeds a Hug has a new voice server. We have moved from vent to MumbleQUESTIONSFirst question we have today is from Mooktar who has sent us in an a voice call about Blizzards new game Titan! blizzard leaked product road maphttp://8th-circuit.com/sites/default/files/blizzard-product-slate-leaked_69312_screen.jpgBlunderbus writes:The guild is doing a great job at helping the 'greener' members get to the point where we can raid, and making sure we feel loved and accepted when we join in, any ideas on ways to make it even better? Perhaps we can set up formal gear and training nights to work on gearing our alts, and helping the green members get what they need to join in the higher level content, learn the dungeons so they can handle PUGS etc?Thanks for making the podcast guys, it makes my long weekly trip to the office go much faster!The Blunder BusThanks for the email Blunderbus, we have looked at the idea of a training night for a while. The reason that we haven’t done something about it is two fold. One we dont have a officer that is willing to take on the job, unless you are volunteering, the other thing is that we have 3 nights of guild events going on currently wed,fri,sun and we dident want to burn people out thinking that they had to come to all the events. Now if we did have someone who wanted to step up to orginize it we would definatly try it out so if anyone out there is looking for a way to get more involved with the guild and think this might be fun let me know and I we can talk.MP3RSSiTunes
The Needs a Hug Podcast. A podcast about World of Warcraft and our guild Needs a Hug on the Ravenholdt US server.Guild News This WeekNewest level 85's since 3/8/2011JundiceSteadmundGnogVivsieBlunderbusCythaneNaked Dungeoneering 10103/25/2011 8:00 PMEpic Fishing Party!04/03/2011 1:00 PMNaxx for Cheevos!04/08/2011 8:00 PMWOW NEWSupdated 4.1 patch notesNew Valor point cap going to weekly instead of dailyWord of Glory:on a 20 second Cooldown for Retribution and Protection paladins. We’d rather these two specs spend most of their Holy Power on damage-dealing abilities, with occasional healing.All non-damaging interrupts off the global cooldown will now always hit the target. This includes Pummel, Shield Bash, Kick, Mind Freeze, Rebuke, Skull Bash, Counterspell, Wind Shear, Solar Beam, Silencing Shot, and related player pet abilities.Resilience scaling has been modified for linear returns, as opposed to increasing returns. Under the new formula, going from 30 resilience to 40 resilience gives players the same increase to survivability as going from 0 to 10. Resilience now scales in the same way armor and magic resistances do. A player with 32.5% damage reduction from resilience in 4.0.6 should see their damage reduction unchanged in 4.1. Those with less than 32.5% will gain slightly. Those with more will lose some damage reduction, increasingly so as their resilience climbs.Death Knight 1. Raise Ally has been redesigned to be a battle resurrection, similar to Rebirth. It is instant cast, but costs 50 Runic Power to use, and has a 10-minute cooldown. It shares the same global battle resurrection cap with Rebirth and Soulstone.what Chilton said about Desolace at GDC**Having decided to revamp Azeroth’s original two continents, the first priority was not to change things too much. “We knew we needed to retain the soul of the original,” Chilton explained. “People had to feel like it was the same world.” In order to strike the right balance, the designers hammered out a useful maxim, attempting to ensure that the content was comprised of “one third old, one third improved, and one third new.” Desolace was flawed for a number of reasons. The quests, to close legion portals, herd Kodo beasts around, and pick a side in the centaur war, were not as compelling as the designers had hoped. The desolate landscape, while atmospheric, was deemed too “monotonous and oppressive.” The war between the centaur clans was difficult to understand. The Burning Legion presence was “more annoying than threatening.” Maybe most importantly, the two quest hubs were at the extreme ends of the zone, meaning that you had a lot of running to do if you wanted to turn anything in.In order to fix the zone’s problems, the designers decided to address the monotony first, by adding a dash of color and life to the zone. In Cataclysm, the Cenarion Circle, a group of tree-hugging Night Elf druids, moves into Desolace, creating a large, verdant area smack dab in the center. The designers also made significant upgrades to the player’s travel patterns, along with the quest mechanics.Looking back on these changes, Chilton was rueful, deciding that the introduction of the Cenarion druids and their green thumbs changed the zone too much. “I’ll be the first to say I signed off on the regrowth idea for Desolace, but it lost some of its soul.” “If you’re reworking content,” he cautioned the other designers in the room, “make sure you’re doing it for the right reasons.”Say it dont Spray itPemmoria: Great job on the podcast Kaziah and Belthal. Looking forward to the next one!!Seraphimia: EPIC PRAIRIE DOG!!Klaine: internet withdrawal...it crapped out on friday and I have 2 days to go... i love typing on BB'sRheya: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oJoJ51mm5Nc Great techno remix of "O Thanagor"(Invincible)Klaine: its a fun read, thought i would share itKlaine:http://wow.joystiq.com/2011/02/14/breakfast-topic-to-grats-or-not-to-grats/MP3 Right click and save to downloadRSS Add us to you RSS aggregator
01. Anna Friz, Music Works 106, Respire02. Adam Basanta, Cache 2008, Transients and Resonance03. Myriam Lavoie, cache 2007, chercher04. Antonin Provost, Cache 2008, Bourrasques05. Blunderbus , demo, ?06. Simple Minds, Real to Real Cacophony, Premonition07. Bauhaus, Swing the Heartache, Party of the First Part08. Excepter, Presidence, OG,
01. Bullion, Pet Sounds in the Key of Dee, Don't Talk02. Bullion, Pet Sounds in the Key of Dee, Wouldn't it be Nice03. Bullion, Pet Sounds in the Key of Dee04. Simon Turner, s/t , Almost Blis05. A Caller from Ontario, , Phone call06. Kusikia, s/t, You Know07. Les Rita Mitsouko, , Stupid Anyway08. Porest, prude juice for the heritage swinger, skin bitch09. Momus, Tender Pervert, Love on Ice10. Phantogram, Running from the Cops, Running from the Cops11. Animal Collective, Fall be Kind, On a Highway12. Andy Partridge , Morgan Fisher's Miniatures, The History of Rock and Roll13. Savage Republic, Jamahiria, Viva le Rock and Roll14. vivian girls, everything goes wrong, tension15. Blunderbus, demo, 116. CFCF, Continent, You Hear Colours,