The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Old friends and climbing partners Tony Yaniro and Randy Leavitt join me for a nice, long listener Q&A and chat. This one was a blast.You can listen to the full thing by becoming a paid subscriber on Apple Podcasts or Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing

How important is fluoride for preventing cavities? And is it safe for us and our kids? Dr. Frank Zelko joins the show to tackle these questions. Dr. Zelko is a professor at the University of Hawaii and has a PhD in environmental history. He is currently working on a book about the history of water fluoridation and the latest research regarding its efficacy and health effects. Expect to go on a fascinating historical journey, and learn about the latest science so you can make your own decision about your drinking water. You can learn more about Dr. Zelko at manoa.hawaii.eduAquaTru (Water Purifiers)Get $100 off any AquaTru systemPlantPaper (Non-Toxic Tree-Friendly Toilet Paper)Get 10% off PlantPaperNADS (Men's Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% off NADSGround News (Transparent News)Get 40% off the Vantage SubscriptionSupport the Podcast Directlypatreon.com/somethingdiffpodWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/frank-zelkoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:33) – Environmental History(00:04:21) – Becoming interested in water fluoridation(00:08:25) – My introduction to Frank(00:11:17) – Colorado Brown Stain(00:18:26) – Alcoa & indentifying fluoride(00:21:41) – Naturally occurring fluoride(00:25:41) – Cavities in the 1930s(00:28:06) – The sweet spot(00:30:54) – Fluoride waste & preliminary research(00:35:28) – Fluoride toxicosis symptoms(00:44:11) – Dentistry & carries(00:52:55) – Early health studies(00:56:14) – Adding fluoride to the water(01:00:31) – The Florida phosphate industry(01:06:30) – The push for fluoridation(01:17:19) – Scientific pushback & conspiracy theories(01:25:52) – Suppression of anti-fluoride research(01:28:32) – Parallels & pendulums(01:31:01) – More recent studies on fluoride(01:35:37) – The efficacy of fluoridation on cavities(01:41:43) – The fluoridation for low-income argument(01:42:40) – Where we're at now(01:44:41) – Should we be filtering our water?(01:50:55) – Toothpaste(01:55:08) – Tea & other recommendations(01:58:42) – Politics & fluoride debates(02:06:27) – Vaccines & serious diseases(02:10:55) – PFAs, microplastics, & fire retardants(02:13:59) – Where to find Dr. Zelko

In this solo episode, I share a few thoughts on my episode with Kaizen Asiedu. I also talk about where I get my news, the state of legacy media, and plans for my new podcast, "Something Different".

Bob Wells (CheapRVLiving) is the ultimate vanlife guru. Bob has been living in vehicles full-time since 2008 and has helped thousands of others escape the 9-5 grind through his YouTube Channel and website. We talked about his life before the road, the vehicles he's lived in, the best budget options he's found, essentials for $100 or less, heating systems, bathroom options, cooking tips, and much more.GSI Outdoors:Camp StovesGoSun:Solar CoolersOutdoorsy:Rent a Van or RV for your next adventure!Ignik:Sustainable Campfire Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/bob-wellsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:39) – Bob's background (00:04:36) – Life before the road(00:05:38) – Bob's shed(00:09:39) – Big city vanlife  (00:15:38) – Full time vanlife(00:17:39) – First van(00:21:37) – Emergency bucket  (00:23:41) – City-specific van tips (00:29:40) – Progression of vehicles  (00:34:40) – Freedom on the road(00:38:40) – Most impressive setup(00:40:41) – Clever and unique setup(00:44:52) – Bang for your buck(00:47:57) – Avoiding burnout (00:51:52) – Dogs(00:55:56) – Bob's future(00:58:57) – Practical advice for road life  (01:05:53) – $100 or less essentials (01:07:54) – Heating systems (01:10:55) – Van or truck tent canopy (01:15:45) – Longest trip in one week(01:17:43) – Beauty of Moab (01:19:43) – Where to find Bob

Sean Houchins-McCallum is the top-ranked climber on the Tension Board 2. We talked about growing up in Iowa, his obsession with board climbing, his insane training schedule, his ultimate board project, why we haven't seen V15+ on the boards, projecting tactics, how changing his diet allowed him to jump up two grades, his home made pre-workout, TB2 vs. outdoor bouldering, dream lines, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/sean-houchins-mccallumNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:16) – Unsynthesized(00:04:50) – Sending every classic in 4 months(00:07:02) – Limit projects every day(00:09:31) – Sean vs. Noah Wheeler(00:11:36) – Is boarding its own sport?(00:16:04) – Becoming a board climber(00:17:30) – Sean's ultimate board proj (You've Seen the Butcher at 65º)(00:19:10) – Board tactics(00:21:28) – Why aren't there V15s or harder on boards?(00:26:14) – Getting outside(00:27:45) – Sean's dimensions(00:29:24) – Sean's warms up(00:34:07) – A typical week(00:36:52) – Sean's projecting tactics(00:40:42) – 2 months on(00:46:52) – Does Sean train his strengths?(00:54:20) – Sean's weaknesses(00:57:19) – The Spray layout(01:01:41) – TB1 vs. TB2(01:02:49) – Mirroring climbs & the leaderboard(01:07:05) – Intimidating holds on the TB2(01:10:19) – Go-to shoes(01:11:36) – Working & setting(01:17:11) – Outdoor goals(01:18:55) – Jumping up 2 grades after changing his diet(01:26:52) – TB2 vs. outside(01:31:57) – New board companies(01:34:59) – Sport climbing feature(01:38:59) – Dream lines(01:40:17) – Rapid fire questions(02:00:53) – How Low Can You Go?

Tess Driessens is a professional climbing coach and lives with chronic pain. We talked about getting diagnosed with five herniated discs from a cliff jumping accident, tools for chronic pain, why hope can be negative, finding true acceptance, meditation, Alexander Technique and  Feldenkrais Method, finding happiness within, why love is the key to life, and three sentences she tells herself every day. You can work with Tess at motion-coaching.beThe NUG

Dr. Keith Baar is a leading expert in tendon and ligament engineering and repair. Natalie Gilmore is a PhD student focused on climbing-specific research. We talked about the results of their recent retrospective study, exciting new science, why “Abrahangs” improve force transfer, why progressively overloading them is a bad idea, protocols for finger health and strength, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for a discount storewide.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/keith-and-natalieNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:03) – Keith's background(00:10:05) – Natalie's background(00:13:08) – The “Abrahangs” retrospective study(00:17:56) – Natalie's experience with “Abrahangs”(00:18:52) – The limitations of a retrospective(00:22:41) – Exciting new studies(00:32:09) – What's happening with “Abrahangs”?(00:41:33) – Is there a “best” protocol?(00:46:40) – Balancing tendon health & stiffness(00:57:00) – Recommendations(01:06:03) – A cautionary tale(01:08:36) – Low-jerk isometrics(01:13:46) – Can “Abrahangs” increase training capacity?(01:15:42) – Summary(01:16:19) – Keith & Natalie's dream studies(01:19:25) – Wrap up

Connor Bodin climbed 30 minutes per day for 100 consecutive days to boost his endurance, and it worked. His critical force went from 30% of bodyweight to an impressive 44% of bodyweight, and his climbing standard went from 5.11+ to 5.12+. In this Patron Spotlight, Connor shares exactly what he did during the 100-day experiment, what he learned, what he plans to do next time, Dave MacLeod's original experiment that inspired him, and more. Think you'll try it out?Become a Patron for a chance to be featured in the next Patron Spotlight!

Katie Lambert is an accomplished all-around climber with a master's in nutrition. We talked about how to get more value out of climbing trips, her training and cold plunge routine, perimenopause, her 40:30:30 approach to nutrition, how to eat on a climbing day, ingredients to avoid, go-to carb sources, eating healthy on a budget, her non-profit Sacred Rok, getting kids to enjoy healthy food, farm-to-school, and more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Donate to Sacred Rok:Directly

Tony Yaniro is a climbing legend and the first-ever person to redpoint a 5.13b with his ascent of The Grand Illusion in 1979. We talked about his early years, handmaking cams in his garage, developing The Needles, inventing the first campus board, training for 5.14 using tin foil, the controversy of chipping routes at Leslie Gulch, his legendary homewall on wheels, building a climbing gym, the importance of respecting your body, and much more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget-club

Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.Rúngne:core-api.club.co/s/mgJAdCRcYDhTk

Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival's adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max's home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max's early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max's simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max's V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris' latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest' 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ronNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:01) – Fish sticks(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other(00:15:08) – Threads & identity(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules(00:31:15) – Follow your heart(00:43:32) – Vision Quest(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing(01:01:02) – The essence(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers(01:30:39) – Flow & precision(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom(01:46:31) – Le Blonde(01:48:19) – Motivation(01:54:04) – A good feeling(01:56:24) – Mother Earth(01:57:37) – A personal path(01:58:49) – Wrap up

Caroline Ciavaldini is a French professional climber specializing in sport, trad, and multi-pitch climbing. We talked about growing up in La Réunion, early climbing, her mother's suicide, the magic and selfishness of competitions, eating disorders, becoming adventurous, trips with Yuji Hirayama, meeting her husband James Pearson, discussing hard things with your kids, the color yellow, naming emotions, gentle feminism, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget

Randy Leavitt is a climbing pioneer, prolific route developer, pilot, and surfer. We talked about training on the Dune Cracks with Tony Yaniro, inventing the Leavittation offwidth technique, his journey from mountaineering to sport climbing, bolting Jumbo Love and other famous routes, why money equals freedom, his passion for surfing, reflections from almost drowning, aging gracefully, and much more.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget

Dave MacLeod is back to answer some of your most burning questions. We talked about notable mindset shifts that affected him, how to reconcile contradictory advice, how to balance longevity with pushing your max, whether prehab training is necessary, his thoughts on Emil Abrahamsson and Keith Baar's study on “No Hangs”, his thoughts on active flexion or finger curls, how to choose your training method, whether eating meat can coexist with environmentalist and much more.Get 90% off 1 month of Patreon

Louise Shepherd is a living legend, and has been called “The Lynn Hill of Australia”. We talked about climbing in the late 70s, her formative experiences, dirtbagging in Arapiles, onsighting some of the first 5.12s in Yosemite, access issues threatening Aralipes climbing, putting cultural heritage into context, and how climbers can help save Arapiles climbing.How You Can Help:https://www.climbingvictoria.com/arapiles Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival's adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/louis-shepherdNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:26) – Fahrenheit(00:03:09) – Australian bolting system(00:05:49) – Louise's intro to climbing in 1978(00:16:46) – Dealing with health issues(00:18:36) – Formative experiences(00:24:34) – Flying breasts & Kim Carrigan(00:29:34) – Yosemite & yoyo style(00:36:16) – Living in Arapiles(00:49:09) – Guiding & The Millennium Draught(00:58:35) – Cultural heritage & closures in Arapiles(01:20:00) – How we can help(01:27:29) – Endangered species & preservation(01:34:15) – Potential outcomes & complexities(01:41:53) – Recap & wrap up

Sol Wertkin is a former rock climber, cancer survivor, nurse, and avid mountain biker. We talked about new routing in the PNW, the “Golden Era” of Leavenworth climbing, the passing of Johnny Goicoechea, Sol's cancer diagnosis in 2020, the long and difficult road to recovery, how e-biking saved his life, sailing, why life feels richer now that he doesn't climb, and nuggets to help your own health journey.Feel free to message Sol on Instagram if you have any questions about cancer diagnosis or long covid. AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget

Stian Christophersen is a physiotherapist, coach, author, and world-class climber. He returns to the podcast to discuss his new book about managing injuries. We talked about why only two days of hard climbing per week is enough to get stronger, the Japanese method for building technique, load management, how to rehab a ruptured pulley, why optimist is important for recovery, training for tweaky holds and moves, growth plate injuries, mindset tips, and much more. Rúngne:rungne.info/nugget

Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino's meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:34) – Themes for the today's podcast(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle'(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume(00:41:08) – Tree crimping(00:43:50) – Almost daily training(00:49:08) – The basics(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game(01:24:43) – Finger training(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude' V14)(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks(02:02:56) – Daydreaming(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail(02:13:27) – One thing at a time(02:17:19) – Writing books(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody' E11(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict(02:42:06) – Dave's experiment with a Western Diet(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research(03:54:50)  Where to buy Dave's book

This is a collection of my favorite moments of the podcast from 2024, including some of the best Patreon segments. Enjoy!Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription

April Davidson (yeahapril) is a rock climber and content creator. We talked about what it is like living with her blind fiance Justin Salas, growing up and moving to LA, losing her mom, opiate addiction, finding climbing, her Instagram career, health issues and adrenal fatigue, her experiment with the carnivore diet, responsible meat eating, chocolate cake, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription

Justin Salas is a legally blind climber who is a 6x National Champion and the 2018 World Champion. He's also climbed up to V11 outside. We talked about what his visual experience is like, the psychology of an invisible disability, assistive technology, how he climbs, sight guides, projecting tactics, building out a van, the Olympics and paraclimbing competitions, visualization, being a changemaker, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription

Eric Jerome is a V15 climber and prolific bouldering developer. We talked about getting hit by a drunk driver, how his injury led to a paradigm shift, why he is actively caring less about climbing, seeking the minimal effective dose, developing new boulders in the Flaming Gorge and The New, buying a house, his career with KAYA, the gamification of climbing, and much more.Holiday Gift Ideas:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing/giftGift a Patreon subscription

Beth Rodden is one of the best female rock climbers of all time. We talked about her kidnapping in Kyrgyzstan, facing backlash after her divorce, reflections on her climbing career, her history with Magic Line, disconnecting self-worth from achievement, the unwinnable game of climbing, personal evolution, why she loves human stories, and much more. Her new book, A Light Through the Cracks: A Climber's Story is available now.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/beth-roddenNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:54) – Injuries(00:03:28) – Writing her book(00:08:14) – Excavating memories(00:11:05) – Coming around to therapy(00:13:59) – Living in fear(00:16:13) – Kyrgyzstan(00:21:45) – More excavation & therapy(00:27:06) – Putting the book together(00:28:29) – A shared experience(00:37:45) – Being honest(00:44:03) – Not reading Tommy's book(00:47:39) – Facing backlash(00:56:11) – Reductionism(01:00:55) – Family trips with the Caldwells(01:05:24) – Reflecting on her climbing career(01:10:48) – Magic Line(01:18:53) – Self-worth, achievement, & change(01:29:49) – An unwinnable game(01:36:30) – Evolution & human stories(01:40:18) – Favorite memoirs(01:44:28) – The next level down(01:46:42) – Feedback & criticism(01:51:27) – Her feelings about her book(01:54:10) – Where to buy Beth's book(01:55:14) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout's advice(02:00:22) – “It's cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Thomas Huber is a German rock climbing and mountaineering legend. We talked about his most recent expedition to Pakistan, how to have fun at basecamp, exploring the impossible, his first trip to Buoux as a teenager, beer diets, his relationship with his brother Alex, challenges, silver linings, partying with the Stone Monkeys in Yosemite, his new book Freiheit, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/thomas-huberNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:25) – Many valleys(00:04:53) – Hunting(00:14:39) – Staying young(00:16:29) – Thomas' recent trip to Choktoi(00:27:12) – Lessons from expeditions(00:31:05) – Party in basecamp(00:35:48) – The Pakistanis' relationship with climbing(00:45:48) – Exploring the impossible(00:51:12) – Understanding why accidents happen(00:55:50) – Sport climbing at age 57(00:57:45) – Mountaineering holiday(01:01:17) – Beer break(01:02:37) – Early training(01:09:36) – Part of the evolution(01:11:42) – His first trip to Buoux(01:13:53) – Inspiration & training setup(01:19:11) – Finger strength in his 50s(01:20:55) – 9a & beer(01:27:36) – Reaching the world stage(01:30:38) – His relationship with his brother Alex(01:37:29) – Proudest accomplishments with Alex(01:39:31) – Challenges & silver linings(01:46:17) – Yosemite & the Stone Monkeys(01:54:00) – Patagonia(01:56:09) – El Nino on El Cap(01:58:39) – The man-powered rappel(02:00:45) – Keeping their stories alive(02:06:24) – Freiheit

Moe's Valley access is under threat! Todd Perkins returns to the show to talk about what is happening with Moe's Valley, what actions are being taken to protect it, and what we can do to help. You can sign the petition here!Sign the Petition:Petition to Permanently Protect the Greater Moe's Valley Area(https://docs.google.com/forms/d/e/1FAIpQLSf3winkzQEwb-NI9TPPIW0yaEo1iLcifw43N0sCS5X9sW3nhQ/viewform)More Links:stgeorgeclimberscoalition.orgShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkins-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – A few thoughts about my political episode with Kaizen(00:02:16) – Intro(00:03:34) – A splash of cold water(00:04:33) – What's going on with Moe's Valley(00:10:24) – Todd's early days in Moe's(00:13:30) – Moe's has it's place(00:14:04) – The petition & upcoming hearings(00:17:46) – Fundraising(00:21:18) – Stories from Todd(00:27:56) – Striking a balance(00:30:58) – Todd's health & climbing(00:33:00) – Top secret information(00:34:02) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 6 of 6) — If you climb long enough, you'll inevitably hit a plateau. In part 6, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls for how to break through plateaus and continue progressing in your climbing. We cover the importance of focusing on skills rather than grades, doubling down on the basics, how to continually progress as a climber, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-6Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:21) – Our longest plateaus(00:03:50) – Jesse's Tip #1: Think long-term(00:08:10) – Steven's Tip #1: Get focused and make sure everything you are doing has a reason behind it(00:10:51) – Jesse's Tip #2: Focus on objectives instead of grades(00:14:17) – Steven's Tip #2: Consider rebuilding from the ground up(00:17:29) – Jesse's Tip #3: Focus on your climbing skills and not the grades(00:28:34) – Steven's Tip #3: Do more of what you haven't been doing(00:33:24) – Jesse's Tip #4: Double down on the basics (sleep, nutrition, stress, etc.)(00:37:19) – Long rests & rewarming up(00:38:12) – Steven's Tip #4: Consider changing your circumstances(00:42:40) – Pressure testing your assumptions(00:44:12) – Creative home walls(00:45:06) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Doing more of what you've been doing(00:45:49) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Overtraining(00:50:32) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Getting captured by other people's agendas(01:00:46) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too much limit checking(01:04:27) – What to do when you run out of routes or boulders to progress through(01:09:21) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Switching styles too often(01:12:43) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: You're not actually plateaued, you've just built a tower(01:15:01) – Area-specific pyramids(01:19:48) – That's a wrap on season 2!

Kaizen Asiedu is a Harvard graduate in philosophy, an Emmy winner, and a life coach. We talked about our political backgrounds and values, what happened to RFK Jr, the health crisis in the US, foreign wars, how the coming election could affect the future of democracy, mainstream media, censorship and free speech, abortion, the steal man case for Kamala and Trump, and much more.Join Kaizen's Courage Collective:skool.com/courageShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kaizen-asieduNuggets:(00:00:00) – Kaizen's Emmy(00:04:22) – My political background, the health crisis, & RKF Jr(00:11:01) – My algorithm breaking & discovering Kaizen(00:12:46) – What Kaizen does(00:14:32) – Kaizen's political journey(00:21:13) – Kaizen's awakening(00:28:35) – Becoming a life coach(00:31:51) – The media, our legal system, & Trump(00:39:15) – How the media portrays RFK Jr, & the “white supremacists are very fine people” narrative(00:43:16) – Kaizen's experience talking about Trump(00:46:25) – Nuance & the power of being truthful(00:51:13) – Media bias, the influence of advertising, & polarized perceptions(00:56:12) – Incentives drive everything(00:57:14) – Tulsi Gabbard, Joe Biden's cognitive decline, & and the DNC appointing Kamala Harris(01:02:09) – Kaizen's political journey continued(01:10:12) – Priorities(01:12:00) – What is America?(01:14:15) – What does a “great” America actually look like?(01:20:57) – Government corruption, Hunter Biden's laptop, censorship, & free speech(01:29:48) – Why this election is bigger than Trump vs. Harris(01:32:35) – Why I feel frustrated with US politics(01:35:34) – My health journey & why I care about the health crisis(01:40:52) – The sick care system & our food system(01:42:13) – Monsanto, GMO crops, Roundup, glyphosate, Bayer, & cancer lawsuits(01:47:47) – How much we spend managing chronic disease(01:50:40) – Sense vs. dollars(01:53:32) – The health crisis is fundamental(01:59:34) – Ripple effects(02:01:47) – Pharma & conflicts of interest(02:02:30) – Voting with our dollars(02:07:57) – Taking responsibility(02:09:15) – Synergistic effects(02:10:24) – Abortion, racism, & what happens if Trump wins(02:23:59) – Inviting curiosity & losing perspective(02:27:24) – Steel man argument for Kamala Harris(02:32:25) – Mass deportation(02:37:48) – Steel man argument for Trump(02:41:34) – January 6th(02:44:17) – Mail-in ballots & voter ID(02:48:26) – My final thoughts(02:50:41) – Kaizen's final thoughts & The Courage Collective

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe's intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe's training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Matt Heyliger guides me through rehab for a minor A2 pulley injury. We talk about how the injury happened, what I should have done to nip it in the bud, the remodeling phase, when to do density hangs, when it's ok to push it, thoughts on taping, pain threshold testing, acupressure rings, how to climb around a pulley injury, and more. Stay tuned for part 2 next week. Become a Patron to get access to the full episode! And support the podcast! *The full version is 1:17:15.*Watch the uncut video interview here!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingMartin's Original Episode:EP 143: Matt HeyligerWork With Matt:www.sendagain.coNuggets:(00:00:00) – Banter with Matt(00:03:47) – Overview of my finger injury(00:06:42) – What I should have done(00:17:44) – Remodeling & density hangs(00:23:12) – The injury timeline(00:25:00) – When to push it & thoughts on taping(00:27:40) – Recap of our first PT session (not recorded)(00:29:49) – Maintaining strength & avoiding barbells(00:33:56) – 4x loading per day (6 reps of 10 seconds on, 20 seconds off)(00:37:37) – BFR(00:40:02) – Finger pain threshold testing(00:46:27) – How I felt after finger testing(00:47:40) – Planning out my climbing(00:53:00) – Palpation & massage(00:57:04) – Acupressure rings(00:58:30) – The next phase of loading(01:05:52) – Too many moves in a session(01:07:34) – How to climb around a minor pulley injury(01:09:41) – Tetris(01:11:00) – Testing with tape(01:12:11) – Plans for the coming week

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 5 of 6) — Injuries suck. And unfortunately, they happen to most of us who push against our limits. In part 5, we talk about what to do when you get injured. We cover the emotional and psychological side of injuries and share some tips and pitfalls to help you get back to climbing stronger than ever.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsRevival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-5Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:00:19) – Injuries we thought we wouldn't come back from(00:05:02) – Caveats, & the inevitability of injury(00:09:19) – Jesse's Tip #1: When you do get injured, see the most experienced climbing-specific professional that you can afford as soon as possible(00:11:07) – Bonus Tip: Be persistent with your doctor and take control of your future(00:14:23) – Steven's Tip #1: Know that it's going to be ok(00:16:04) – Jesse's Tip #2: Understand the relationship between velocity and volume(00:19:07) – Steven's Tip #2: Let yourself experience whatever emotions come up(00:27:08) – Jesse's Tip #3: Find ways to keep loading or climbing(00:31:19) – My best onsight season ever(00:35:07) – Steven's Tip #3: Treat rehab like training (and how I rehabbed my first pulley injury)(00:38:41) – Jesse's Tip #4: Protect your identity(00:43:16) – Steven's Tip #4: Take a break from the climbing world if you need to(00:46:59) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Seeing a medical pro who doesn't understand your sport/identity(00:52:40) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Testing/checking your injury constantly(00:57:28) – More finger rehab tips(00:58:53) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Ignoring it for too long (give your injury a chance to self-resolve)(01:07:18) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Thinking of yourself as fragile or prone to reinjury after an injury(01:09:54) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Being negative (talking and thinking negatively about your injury)(01:14:13) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Trying to rush the process(01:15:27) – Bonus Tip: Upper body injury = walk a lot. Lower body injury = Pull-ups.(01:15:42) – Wrap up

Molly Beard was the first female L5 routesetter in the US. We talked about what climbing gyms were like in the 90s, how she got started in routesetting, learning the language of movement, getting her L5, dealing with misogyny, staying up to speed on setting trends, how to have longevity as a routesetter, budgeting your body dollars, advice for young routesetters, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Ocelot Grips:ocelotgrips.com/nuggetUse code “The Nugget loves cats” to save 35% off MSRP.Fill out their Google form and enter to win one $500 hold credit.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Green Chef:greenchef.com/nugget50Use code "nugget50" for 50% off your first box plus 20% off your next two months. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/molly-beardNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:34) – The Murder Room(00:06:01) – How I met Molly 15 years ago(00:10:02) – Molly's background(00:12:50) – Climbing gyms in the 90s(00:14:45) – The language of movement(00:20:54) – Becoming the puppet master(00:29:14) – Routesetting in the 90s(00:32:35) – Getting paid to set routes(00:34:36) – The power of climbing(00:35:49) – Getting her L5(00:44:53) – Facing misogyny in routesetting(00:51:21) – The progression of routesetting(00:57:57) – Staying up to speed with the trends(01:00:54) – Coordination(01:02:34) – Specializing in lead(01:04:55) – Youth comps & the next generation(01:06:50) – Longevity as a routesetter(01:12:10) – A tide shift(01:18:29) – Molly's current job & recent injuries(01:22:08) – An evolving relationship with climbing(01:24:49) – Finding separation(01:35:20) – Body dollars & Jiu-Jitsu(01:39:10) – Moving to Hood River(01:43:06) – Advice for young routesetters(01:47:25) – Where is climbing going?(01:52:14) – Splitting the field(01:56:17) – “Be less judgemental.”(02:01:52) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 4 of 6) — Everybody wants stronger fingers. In this episode, Jesse and I share our top tips and pitfalls when it comes to building functional finger strength for climbing. We cover our favorite finger training methods, key principles to follow, how to apply your strength to the rock, how to avoid finger injuries, the power of consistency, and much more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-4Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:19) – Two things that have improved Jesse's finger strength(00:04:12) – Using climbing to gain finger strength(00:07:53) – Overview(00:09:05) – Steven's Tip #1: Do something simple enough that you can be consistent with it, and do it for a very long time(00:11:02) – Examples of simple consistency(00:13:48) – Climbing on a board(00:18:14) – Jesse's Tip #1: You probably don't need much finger training(00:19:37) – Maintaining finger strength on a trip(00:21:50) – Steven's Tip #2: Use big edges to get strong and use small edges to apply that strength to the rock(00:31:28) – Jesse's Tip #2: Understand the adaptations from different styles of training(00:37:41) – Owning the hold(00:38:43) – Finger curls/active flexion(00:42:53) – Building forearm capacity and endurance(00:44:08) – Rate of force development(00:46:12) – Wall crawls/crimp crawls/low gear(00:48:33) – Steven's Tip #3: Own the hold(00:53:32) – RPE and 10-second hangs(00:56:32) – Jesse's Tip #3: Practice grips on the wall(01:01:28) – Steven's Tip #4: Train a variety of grip types(01:11:54) – Bonus Tip: The Ladder Program(01:14:56) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Training too heavy(01:17:20) – Genetric freaks and the 200 lb goal(01:18:25) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Not considering how you climb when you train your fingers (i.e. Your finger training should be specific to you)(01:22:26) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Doing your finger training when you're tired(01:24:38) – Watching Tyler Nelson one-arm hang a 15mm edge when tired(01:27:53) – Rate of Force test(01:29:28) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Switching protocols too often(01:30:30) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Too much “perfect” edge training(01:34:44) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Stressing out about which protocol is “the best”(01:36:30) – “It takes years”(01:38:18) – Bonus Tip: N=1(01:39:55) – Wrap up

Alex Megos is a German professional climber and a living legend. He recorded this podcast from the Flatanger campground during his recent sending spree in Norway. We talked about sending Change 9b+, why he is practicing his kneebar skills, future 9b+ and 9c projects, what it meant to him to send Bibliographie, his America Tour in 2013, how onsighting Estado Critico changed his career, making changes to reach his full potential, how many carrots he eats in a day, future competition goals, and more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-megosNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Change 9b+, kneebars, and two 9a's(00:09:35) – His 9b project in Flatanger(00:10:26) – 9b+ & 9c projects(00:14:45) – Bibliographie(00:20:00) – Germans are easy to talk to(00:21:08) – The America Tour(00:34:59) – Becoming a professional climber(00:38:07) – Onsighting Estado Critico 9a(00:43:59) – Fighting his way up Change(00:45:51) – Leg pump(00:46:55) – Falling in love with Norway(00:48:38) – The stress of projecting in Flatanger(00:50:01) – His peak shape in 2017(00:52:34) – Resting more to reach his full potential(00:55:47) – 13 training sessions in a week(00:57:34) – Working on climbing with less tape(01:02:59) – Going vegan to sweat less, & avoiding processed food(01:05:50) – Carrot consumption(01:07:51) – Olympics(01:11:31) – Bouldering competitions(01:12:51) – The board master(01:14:37) – Outdoor bouldering(01:16:00) – Wrap up

Another phone call with Ron Kauk. Enjoy :)Donate to Sacred Rok if you wish:sacredrok.org 

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 3 of 6) — In part 3, we step into the weight room. We cover weight training fundamentals, including the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, the big 4, and the rule of 10. We also discuss why we both lift, why climbers should train differently than weight lifters, programming ideas, common mistakes, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month.Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-3Nuggets:(00:00:00) – The NUG(00:01:21) – Why Jesse lifts weights(00:04:43) – Why I lift weights(00:06:19) – The safety of weightlifting(00:07:03) – Low-hanging fruit(00:08:06) – Jesse's Tip #1: Learn the basics (the SAID principle, progressive overload, RPE, autoregulation, and a basic understanding of anatomy)(00:12:36) – How I use RPE, & a big mistake I made early on in my lifting(00:13:16) – Other forms of RPE(00:16:11) – A study on reps in reserve (RIR) lifting(00:16:50) – A basic understanding of anatomy (ExRx.net)(00:18:20) – Steven's Tip #1: Train like an athlete in another sport, not like a weight lifter(00:18:54) – The Big 4 (push, pull, hinge, squat), & an example program(00:21:56) – The 10 Rep Rule(00:25:13) – Jesse's Tip #2: Learn how to modify your training(00:35:47) – How to progress primary & accessory exercises(00:37:26) – Why you should start with a compound exercise(00:38:25) – Steven's Tip #2: It's ok to focus on the bare essentials(00:40:43) – Way too much pulling training(00:41:30) – Step #1 for new lifters(00:44:07) – Drew Ruana bench press example(00:45:42) – Jesse's Tip #3: Load is more important to pay attention to than form(00:47:30) – Steven's Tip #3: Get specific strategically, and only after you build a base(00:49:42) – Jesse's Tip #4: You may need to reduce your climbing volume to adapt to your weight training(00:55:52) – Bonus Tip: Learn about hardstyle training(00:58:27) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Doing either too much or too little(01:01:14) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Going ham(01:01:14) – Bonus Pitfall: Not taking advantage of weight lifting when you're young(01:07:12) – You don't have to go to level ten(01:08:17) – Overall training load(01:09:09) – A little bit is still beneficial(01:11:04) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not going heavy enough(01:15:56) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too specific, too special, or too fancy(01:18:42) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Not eating enough protein(01:22:32) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Not learning how to use autoregulation in some fashion(01:26:02) – Bonus Pitfall: Forcing it(01:27:57) – Nurturing your practice with weight training(01:29:26) – Avoid boot camp training(01:31:46) – Wrap up

Girls Gone Hueco is an all-female bouldering film now available on Vimeo. In this episode, I sit down with V11 climber Midori Buechli and filmmaker Long Truong to discuss the making of the film, the power of climbing with a girl gang, hidden costs of making a film, trash can showers, pad-less sends, imposter syndrome, advice for aspiring filmmakers, and more.Watch Girls Gone Hueco:girlsgonehueco.vhx.tvKAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO.Shoutout to KAYA for supporting Girls Gone Hueco!Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/girls-gone-huecoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:38) – Midori's background(00:09:08) – Long's background(00:13:26) – What Long learned making Girls Gone Hueco(00:15:41) – What surprised Midori about the experience(00:17:32) – Why Midori wanted to make the film(00:20:30) – Forming the girl gang(00:24:36) – How Long got involved with this film(00:28:36) – Making the film(00:37:48) – What they wish they had known(00:40:10) – Hidden costs of making a film(00:48:08) – Carving out the time to make a film(00:50:57) – Trash can shower(00:55:39) – Amanda's pad-less send(01:00:36) – Will there be a Girls Gone Hueco 2?(01:01:35) – Takeaways(01:06:11) – Where to watch the film(01:06:45) – Advice for aspiring filmmakers(01:10:03) – Imposter syndrome(01:15:15) – Don't be afraid to try(01:16:45) – V11 in legit(01:18:03) – Shoutout to Julie Ellison(01:20:45) – Congratulations

Yves Gravelle returns to the podcast to help me get stronger fingers. We talked about my current finger strength goal, how to build a 3-month training program, best joint angles for edge lifting, limiting factors, the challenge for climbers with building finger strength, forearm hypertrophy exercises, how to know when you need more rest, how to combine board sessions with finger training, repeater protocols for long boulders, process goals, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 237: Yves Gravelle Returns — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/yves-gravelle-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – The 200 lb grip goal(00:07:31) – How Yves makes a training program, the Gap Analysis, & benchmarking(00:11:28) – Limiting factors(00:12:15) – The Sport Audit(00:15:13) – Joint angles for edge lifting(00:19:19) – Specializing(00:20:36) – The challenge for climbers with building finger strength(00:21:18) – More on specialization(00:22:51) – Forearm hypertrophy exercises(00:24:58) – Lifting vs. hanging vs. overcoming isometrics(00:30:33) – Grip positions for different goals(00:36:07) – 20mm vs. 25mm edge training(00:38:29) – How to build a 3-month grip training program(00:45:56) – Yves' edge lifting protocols(00:53:35) – When to progress weight(00:54:50) – Wellness questionnaire & readiness test(00:56:20) – When to change your training schedule(00:58:23) – When to push out of your comfort zone (i.e. The Shock Week)(01:00:08) – Hypertrophy & long-term finger strength gains(01:04:27) – Lazy athletes get strong(01:05:29) – Repeaters(01:07:44) – Changing your schedule or program(01:10:48) – My takeaways so far(01:12:02) – How to combine board sessions with finger training(01:20:04) – Training for a 23-move boulder(01:22:44) – Pacing & effeciency(01:25:37) – Summary of my example training plan(01:35:12) – More about repeaters(01:40:46) – How to maintain finger strength in season(01:48:05) – Yves' recent grip comp & climbing goals(01:55:22) – Yves' gap analysis for comps(01:57:15) – Planning & process goals(01:59:05) – Yves' job as a special effects artist(02:01:06) – Yves' YouTube channel(02:01:54) – Climbers getting into grip sports(02:02:47) – Outdoor rock goals & his last Hueco trip(02:05:45) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser for Patrons

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 2 of 6) — In part 2, we share our top tips for training on spray walls and home walls. We cover training setup considerations, route setting tips, best apps for saving and sharing climbs, mastering benchmark climbs, how to iterate on your climbs for incremental progress, hacks for building a home wall on a budget, and more.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Check out the Tension Board 2:tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-2Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:20) – Best spray walls(00:05:46) – Terrain drives technique(00:08:00) – Choosing a wall angle(00:10:07) – Jesse's Tip #1: Home wall setup considerations (Use a mix of good and bad holds, a mix of textures, complement your local area, etc.)(00:13:05) – Steven's Tip #1: Build yourself a repertoire of quality climbs, and try to master them(00:17:45) – Bonus Tip: Cluster holds to build skills and learn movement(00:19:12) – Bonus Tip: Iterate on your climbs for incremental progression(00:24:52) – Jesse's Tip #2: Supercharge your sessions with route setting(00:27:59) – Steven's Tip #2: Work on climbs that are hard for different reasons(00:28:57) – Bonus Tip: Set chaotically (i.e. Set boulders without trying the moves, and try not to tweak them)(00:33:17) – Jesse's Tip #3: Do not underestimate the value of a short session on a home wall(00:35:52) – Steven's Tip #3: Circuits!(00:40:13) – Jesse's Tip #4: Make wood holds to save money(00:43:27) – Steven's Tip #4: Set foot moves(00:49:23) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Always trying new stuff and having crap sessions(00:52:08) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Not having the right mix of holds for the skill level(00:54:33) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Not keeping track of your sessions(00:55:51) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Not stopping when you power down (i.e. climbing too much and getting injured)(00:57:40) – Sandbagging on spray walls, and trusting your eyes(00:59:42) – Steven's Pitfall # 3: Only having big blobby footholds(01:02:03) – Steven's Pitfall #4: Not making your home wall cool (plus tips for building a cool home wall on a budget)(01:07:32) – Quantum leaps

Dr. Amy Frugé (DPT) is a former Martial Arts World Champion, rock climber, and the founder of Converge Physical Therapy. We talked about extremity and finger pain from unusual sources, how to maintain a healthy spine, how emotions and stress affect our pain, psychedelic experiences, the pain, tension, and fear triangle, ways to empty your stress bucket, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 235: Dr. Amy Frugé — Uncut VideosBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/amy-frugeNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:26) – Pregnancy & maternity leave(00:04:05) – Overview(00:05:31) – Amy's martial arts background(00:10:21) – Confidence(00:13:29) – Point sparring & boxing(00:18:14) – Pivoting to climbing(00:22:24) – How Amy's athletic background informs her work with climbers(00:24:25) – Starting her Physical Therapy business during covid(00:27:13) – Radiculopathy(00:28:59) – Elbow & finger pain from the spine(00:39:53) – A pulley injury that turned out to be from the spine(00:47:00) – Be careful how you snuggle(00:49:06) – How to maintain a healthy spine(00:52:44) – Shoulder pain & directional preference(00:59:37) – Go-to tells of spinal issues(01:01:15) – Finding a provider(01:02:39) – How emotions & stress affect our pain(01:09:08) – The bucket analogy(01:10:23) – Pain is protective(01:11:37) – Stress & mindset(01:18:27) – Science vs. woowoo, & left vs. right(01:23:09) – Psychedelic-assisted therapy(01:27:48) – My psychedelic experiences(01:29:26) – Another client success story(01:36:58) – The pain, tension, & fear triangle(01:40:54) – Ways to empty your stress bucket(01:47:17) – Our many different buckets, & introverts vs. extroverts(01:51:20) – Be more like a dog(01:54:42) – Wrap up

Fundamentals Season 2 (Part 1 of 6) — In this episode, Jesse and I each share our top tips and pitfalls for how to climb on a training board, such as a Tension Board, Moonboard, Kilter Board, Grasshopper Board, etc. This episode contains nuggets for folks who are just getting started with board climbing, as well as seasoned board lords.Listen to more Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentalsThe NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard design.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app.Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt Walter Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/fundamentals-s2-part-1Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:14) – Our board climbing experience(00:05:42) – Jesse's Tip #1: Treat it like training (pay attention to weekly volume and progress it slowly)(00:07:09) – Bonus Tip: Keep board sessions short when training power(00:10:21) – Steven's Tip #1: Have a clear plan for your session (and develop 2-3 go-to session formats that work well for you)(00:11:39) – Example board session formats(00:13:45) – Wall crawls (aka crimp crawls) & Jesse's 3x3 session(00:15:32) – Jesse's Tip #2: Be creative and use the whole board as a tool (use extra holds/feet to learn hard moves)(00:22:44) – Steven's Tip #2: Don't be afraid to break the rules(00:25:08) – Jesse's Tip #3: Jesse shares his methodology for teaching V4/5 clients how to use the Moonboard(00:29:32) – Steven's Tip #3: Do what you can do consistently and build on it slowly over time(00:31:38) – Bonus Tip: Work hard moves backwards, and jump from the ground to practice latching(00:32:53) – Bonus Tip: Find a TB2 to climb on (and why I chose the TB2)(00:34:01) – Steven's Pitfall #1: Using your board as your only form of climbing(00:37:59) – More about wall crawls (aka crimp crawls)(00:39:03) – More love for the TB2(00:44:32) – Jesse's Pitfall #1: Taking board grades too seriously(00:47:49) – Steven's Pitfall #2: Using board grades to downgrade outdoor climbs(00:49:04) – Benchmark rants(00:50:39) – Jesse's Pitfall #2: Too much too fast(00:53:13) – Steven's Pitfall #3: Doing too much of the same thing(00:54:44) – Jesse's Pitfall #3: Doing too much off-the-wall finger training in conjunction with board climbing(00:56:56) – One thing I like to do on the hangboard if I'm board training a lot(00:57:48) – You need a reason to train things(00:59:17) – Using wall crawls to maintain finger strength(01:00:38) – Wrap up

We're back with Fundamentals Season 2! Jesse Firestone joins me again for six new episodes covering some of the fundamental elements of becoming a better climber. In season 2, we'll dive deeper into several important aspects of training, injury recovery, and how to break plateaus. Stay tuned for more episodes coming soon.Listen to Fundamentals episodes:thenuggetclimbing.com/fundamentals

Allison Vest joins me to talk about the Paris Olympics! We talked about our biggest surprises from the men's and women's combined semifinals, our thoughts on the route setting, what defines an “electric” boulder, why speed was so great to watch, heartbreaking results, men's and women's combined finals, who we are most excited to see bring their Olympic fitness to the rocks, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 233: Olympic Reactions With Allison Vest — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing KAYA:kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!Rhino Skin Solutions:rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/olympic-reactionsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:35) – How we watched the Olympics(00:08:57) – Overall reaction(00:10:58) – Power, Electric, Slab, & Coordination(00:13:59) – Men's final boulder 1(00:16:39) – Surprises from the men's semifinal(00:19:25) – Adam Ondra & Jakob Schubert(00:23:11) – The unknown format for LA(00:26:10) – Olympic rules & limitations(00:27:55) – Niche Olympic sports & pride for climbing(00:30:28) – Speed recap(00:35:40) – Heartbreak(00:43:25) – Colin Duffy(00:45:58) – Jakob's point deduction in bouldering(00:47:12) – Men's final boulder 3(00:50:31) – Toby Roberts & Sorato Anraku(00:53:03) – What Toby's gold means for the GB Team(00:55:41) – Colin on men's final boulder 4(00:58:45) – Surprises from the women's semifinal(01:04:07) – The OQS series & the effects of qualifying at different times(01:07:16) – Brooke Raboutou(01:11:11) – Janja Garnbret(01:19:36) – Climbers are wonderful(01:28:24) – Women's top 3(01:29:24) – Will climbing grow after the Olympics?(01:32:39) – Which Olympians we are excited to see climb outdoors(01:41:14) – The skills of outdoor climbing(01:51:03) – Camera angles & World Cup challenges(01:53:29) – Will Allison compete again?(01:54:39) – Wrap up

Natalia Grossman is a World Champion and 3x overall World Cup winner and will compete for Team USA at the Paris Olympics. We talked about spending time in Mexico as a kid, her breakout year in 2021, dealing with public criticism, working on her mindset, how to win without being the strongest person competing, hard outdoor sends and goals, her happiest moments, her top training advice, and much more.Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 232: Natalia Grossman — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing PhysiVantage:physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!BetterHelp:betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!Green Chef:greenchef.com/nuggetclassUse code "nuggetclass" for 50% off your first box + 50 FREE Credits with ClassPass.We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/natalia-grossmanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:46) – Natalia's parents(00:03:08) – Spending summers in Mexico & speaking Spanish(00:08:10) – Discovering climbing(00:11:25) – Her breakout year in 2021 & dealing with public criticism(00:16:44) – Facing pressure in 2022(00:19:58) – The hardest year(00:22:36) – Health challenges & learning to listen to her body(00:26:42) – Learning & hobbies(00:28:46) – Studying psychology(00:31:04) – Finding balance(00:37:10) – “It's not always the strongest person who wins.”(00:38:15) – What does it take to win?(00:39:51) – Setters' influence on comps(00:42:08) – Natalia's leadup to the Olympics(00:45:12) – Smile & Fight(00:50:45) – Don't be ashamed to ask for help(00:53:48) – Hard outdoor sends(00:58:49) – Projecting & outdoor goals(01:01:54) – Freezing(01:06:17) – Why Natalia doesn't like rituals(01:08:11) – Competition underwear(01:09:26) – Rapid fire questions(01:11:42) – Gymnastics culture(01:13:24) – More rapid-fire questions(01:18:22) – Her happiest moment(01:21:41) – Deep convos, training advice, & following psych(01:25:22) – Wrap up & EXTRA for Patrons

Colin Duffy is a 2x Olympian, 3x World Cup winner, and V16 boulderer from Colorado. We talked about puzzles, studying applied math, early competitions, joining Team ABC, getting 70th in his first open event, learning how to lose gracefully, qualifying and competing in Tokyo, how the Olympic scoring has changed, his strategy for Paris, future outdoor rock climbing goals, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 231: Colin Duffy — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/colin-duffyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:25) – Puzzles & applied math(00:06:32) – Mom & dad(00:07:29) – Early comps & Team ABC(00:11:22) – Tokyo Olympics(00:17:15) – Strategy & scoring(00:20:00) – The format for Paris(00:25:00) – The World Championships in Switzerland(00:28:05) – Youth comps(00:30:41) – Clutch mentality(00:33:28) – Keeping sport & life separate(00:35:53) – Gap semester & training in Europe(00:41:24) – 360 Paddle Dyno(00:43:52) – Coordination(00:49:13) – Lead training(00:52:22) – Comp grades(00:57:12) – Comp boulders that haunt him(01:01:02) – Learning how to lose(01:04:58) – His first open comp(01:08:06) – Putting on muscle(01:16:18) – Letting off steam(01:18:31) – The Grand Hustle V13(01:20:24) – Bookkeeping V16(01:22:22) – Outdoor goals(01:30:47) – Rapid fire questions(01:47:45) – Wrap up

Emma Hunt is the US speed climbing record holder and will compete in the Paris Olympics. We talked about her intro to speed climbing, how strong you have to be for speed climbing, speed training, how speed shoes compare to other climbing shoes, her mental game and strategy in comps, prejudice against speed in the climbing world, whether the speed route will ever change, why speed is cool, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 230: Emma Hunt — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/emma-huntNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:50) – Emma's intro to climbing & speed(00:04:08) – “I just wanna go fast.”(00:06:48) – Keeping the fire lit(00:09:28) – Beta changes(00:12:08) – The Start, Dyno, and Top(00:13:10) – Speed nerds(00:16:19) – A rock climber first(00:18:10) – Post-Olympic plans(00:20:41) – How strong are speed climbers?(00:23:25) – How speed climbers train(00:28:42) – Training sections of the speed route(00:30:14) – Off-the-wall training(00:31:56) – Her coaches(00:35:06) – Speed shoes(00:44:59) – Other sports(00:46:27) – Rock climbing as a kid(00:48:27) – What makes Emma so good at speed(00:49:58) – Pre-race rituals(00:51:36) – Speed mental game(00:56:37) – Olympic vs. World Cup format(00:59:06) – Seeds & sides(01:00:39) – Strategy(01:05:01) – Riding waves(01:11:28) – More about the Olympic format(01:13:18) – Speed prejudice & Toyko combined format(01:27:51) – Future Bouldering & Lead comps(01:29:20) – Speed climbing in the mainstream(01:35:22) – We celebrate gold(01:40:39) – Barriers to speed(01:42:30) – Emma's fastest time & goals(01:44:49) – Will the speed route ever change?(01:51:56) – 50-year-old goals(01:53:45) – Rapid fire questions(02:07:51) – Speed is cool

Shauna Coxsey is the most successful competition climber in the UK and the first British woman to climb V12, V13, and V14. We talked about becoming a mom, sitting in and sharing our emotions, human nature and the joy of climbing, inspiration vs. aspiration, motivation vs. commitment, competing in Tokyo, retiring from comps, sending Hazel Grace V14 in terrible conditions, pushing for her V15 goal as a mom, and much more!Watch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 229: Shauna Coxsey — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/shauna-coxseyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:30) – Frankie(00:03:58) – Becoming a mom(00:12:48) – Sit in and share emotions(00:15:09) – Parenting(00:20:15) – Support network(00:22:06) – Shauna's upbringing(00:23:10) – Catherine Destivelle(00:26:16) – The joy of climbing(00:31:16) – Human nature(00:34:22) – Her first big competition(00:37:34) – Being raised by her sister(00:40:49) – Protecting passion in kids(00:47:54) – Frankie's Nany, Arona(00:52:10) – As honest as her vulnerability allows(00:55:13) – Inspiration vs. aspiration(00:58:34) – Motivation vs. commitment(01:01:38) – Her proudest achievement(01:04:12) – Hazel Grace 8B+/V14(01:05:42) – Coming back after pregnancy(01:12:13) – Wanting to look and feel strong again(01:17:52) – Hips, butt, & YouTube tips(01:24:02) – Commentating(01:28:17) – Tokyo(01:31:31) – 50 best 7s(01:34:32) – Pushing for goals as a mom(01:41:10) – The magic of being here(01:43:19) – Any 8C/V15 goals?(01:47:38) – Wrap up

Josh Hadley is a leading flexibility coach in climbing and the face behind the Lattice YouTube Channel. I've struggled with stretching routines over the years, and this episode completely changed my flexibility training. In this episode, Josh shares his top 4 stretches for inflexible climbers and introduces key concepts like chasing horizontal, weighted stretching, tempo, contract and relax, reducing friction, best times to stretch, and more. We also covered his recent CARCing experiment and other topics. Enjoy!Flex Master Discount:Use code NUGGET20 to get 20% off the Flex Master Bundle latticetraining.com/product/flex-master-bundle-stretching-toolsWatch the Video Interview of this episode:EP 228: Josh Hadley — Uncut VideoBecome a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out the Tension Board 2!tensionboard.com/nuggetOr use the Tension app to find a TB2 near you!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage SUMMER SPECIAL!physivantage.com/discount/NUG20Use code "NUG20" at checkout for 20% off your next order of collagen or protein!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/josh-hadleyNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:59) – CARCing(00:10:38) – Unstructured training(00:12:13) – How Josh became the flexibility guy(00:17:47) – Bringing critical force testing to Lattice(00:25:25) – Flexibility assessments(00:32:14) – Abduction(00:32:44) – Buy in for flexibility training(00:41:47) – How often do you need to train flexibility(00:44:19) – The #1 flexibility exercise for boulderers (pancake)(00:47:57) – Weighted & PNF stretching(00:53:36) – Josh's flexibility progress(00:59:40) – Morphology limitations(01:03:11) – Standing Pancake(01:08:56) – Chasing horizontal(01:13:43) – Tasking & motivation(01:16:40) – Pancake stance width(01:18:11) – Progressing the weight & tempo stretching(01:24:51) – Do you have to warm up for flexibility training?(01:27:40) – Pancake protocol(01:30:06) – How Josh builds a flexibility session(01:34:11) – Mobility vs. flexibility(01:39:58) – Calve stretching(01:46:01) – 4 stretches for inflexible climbers(01:52:24) – Reducing friction(01:55:00) – Stretching doesn't have to look like climbing(01:56:57) – PNF or contract-relax stretching(02:00:57) – Best times to stretch(02:04:41) – Breathing(02:07:14) – When to switch to maintenance(02:11:40) – What running does to your flexibility(02:12:54) – Josh's climbing & BJJ(02:19:17) – The impact of flexibility on Josh's climbing(02:22:07) – Josh's final advice(02:25:32) – YouTube experimenting(02:27:49) – Wrap up

How are granite climbing holds made? Are there benefits to training on rock? In this episode, I am joined by Mads Bulow Duus and Pawel Rogowski from Nature Climbing. We go behind the scenes on the origin story of their brand, the craftsmanship behind their beautiful products, how to build a successful brand, training and skin conditioning on granite hangboards, the future of climbing holds, and much more!Use Code ‘NUGGET' for 20% Off ANY Nature Climbing Products! ▶︎ https://natureclimbing.com/Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nature-climbingNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:08) – Banter(00:05:02) – My first experience with Nature holds(00:08:13) – Glass blowing & Nature's origin story(00:10:56) – Early holds(00:12:28) – Mads' climbing background(00:16:28) – Pawel's marketing background(00:25:32) – How Mads & Pawel connected(00:27:15) – Mads' dream(00:28:32) – Pawel's career pivot(00:37:06) – Fixing the basics(00:43:51) – Scaling a handcrafted business(00:52:23) – Sustainability & respect(00:55:51) – Buying holds(00:58:33) – Who Nature is for(01:06:53) – Developing new products(01:09:27) – The Nature Circuit(01:10:48) – World Cup routes(01:12:43) – Their vision for Nature(01:17:56) – Their dream lifestyles(01:23:00) – Proudest of(01:28:42) – Elevator pitch(01:29:54) – Training on granite(01:33:39) – Discount code