Transylvania Mountain Festival Podcast

În acest episod povestim cu Imi Sedevi despre pionierat în escalada sportivă în România anilor 90, despre echipament, antrenament, progresie și atitudinea de care ai nevoie pentru a trece pragul psihologic de la 7c la 8a. Imi este un un sportiv de elită, fost salvator montan, cățărător care a urcat pe primele locuri pe podiumuri la alpiniade și cupe naționale și a reprezent Romania la Cupa Mondiala de Escaladă Sportivă de la Geneva din 1995. A deschis nenumărate trasee de escaladă sportivă în județul Bihor, în special la Șuncuius, Vadu Crișului, Oșoi și Lazuri. A amenajat alături de echipa Crux Holds Oradea trasee pentru Lazuri Climbing Fest și Osoi Climbing, evenimente de profil care au lansat două faleze noi de escaladă în Muntii Pădurea Craiului. Imi antrenează în prezent la Crux Holds, noul spațiu de bouldering și escaladă de 600 mp deschis în 2019 pe Calea Clujului în Oradea unde l-am întâlnit și unde ne-a făcut bucuria de a sta de vorbă cu noi.

After years of experience directing content for TV, cinema, and brands, Pierre Cadot and Thomas Guerin associated to create Yucca Films. Based in the Chamonix valley, both skiers and climbers, they decided 4 years ago to focus on outdoor & mountain film projects. With deep stories and images of passionate individuals in the mountains, they create films that stick to the truth and bring back from the outdoor, moments that could not be told otherwise. Collaborating with different talents, they produce and direct projects, from the story line to the final distribution, to TVs, web and film festivals. We met with Pierre and Thomas in their studio in Chamonix, to ask them about mountain films and adventures, the creative process and inspiration.

Charlotte Edelsten is a Sleep Specialist and Human Movement Scientist. Having completed her PhD in human movement biomechanics and physical activity performance and participation, she moved to the French alps and took a post doctoral position at Geneva University Hospital in 2009, where she worked between the sleep laboratory and the laboratory of kinesiology (movement). This is where her interest in sleep developed. Charlotte has held several academic posts over the past few years, where she researches the impact of altitude on sleep and the impact it has on cognition and performance. Living in Chamonix Mont-Blanc she is well placed to take theoretical and empirical work out into the field. She is one of several Senior researchers responsible for running a research study during the Ultra Trail du Mont Blanc each summer, where the impact of severe sleep deprivation is assessed in relation to runner's performance and psychomotor vigilance, and the interaction between homeostatic sleep pressure and circadian rhythm under explicit environmental stresses. Charlotte runs sleep clinics, where she advises, assesses, and aids in the diagnoses of individuals with a wide range of sleep problems and disorders. In addition to this, she works in an educational capacity in the corporate and public domain, she delivers lectures, workshops and seminars that primarily serve to raise awareness surrounding the importance of sleep. She is particularly interested in the cognitive and health related impairment we suffer, directly resulting from disturbed sleep and the effect this has on performance. In this episode we talk about sleep hygiene, the effect of stress on sleep and its impact on our quality of life, sleep strategies for endurance races and mountaineering and the research done on UTMB runners for the past 6 years. We hope you enjoy and find this information useful! LINKS FOR RESEARCH STUDY ON SLEEP DEPRIVATION: https://transylvaniamountainfestival.ro/en/podcast-ep7-charlotte-edelsten-sleep-strategies-for-performance-endurance-sports/ Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

Colin Haley is an American alpinist who has done some of the toughest climbs in Patagonia and quite a few spectacular link-ups, some in a unique style. He has grew up in the United States, surrounded by nature, with the Cascade Mountains as a secondary backyard. He received his first ice axe when he was 11 years old.  The next year, while climbing the classic West Ridge of Forbidden Peak together with his father and his older brother, he discovered the core elements of alpinism – exhilaration, exertion, exhaustion, fear, awe, relaxation and an elemental satisfaction.  Since youth he climbed constantly and in his 20's he emerged on the world alpinism stage through climbs in Patagonia where he became Rolando Garibotti's climbing partner. His dedication led him to the great opportunity of becoming a professional athlete, to climb nearly full-time, which was his dream since fourteen-years-old.   He climbs mostly in the Western hemisphere and his loftiest dreams remain big, committing, beautiful and highly-technical. We are happy to have Colin as a guest at this episode of the podcast where we ask him about expeditions in the high mountain ranges, adventure climbing, fear, moving to Chamonix and his short term plans.  Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

Ellen Brennan Frat, wingsuit BASE-jumper from USA, moved in 2012 close to Chamonix for access to the Alps's verticals. She follows her passion of Wingsuit BASE-jumping, to explore the boundaries of what we think is possible. Her dedication to the sport, has lead her to become one of the top female athletes in her field. Best known for her feats in wingsuit competitions, Ellen has become known as the “Fastest Flying Woman in the World.” We talk to Ellen about her evolution in the sport since 2006 when she started BASE jumping, technique, equipment, maternity and future plans. Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

Alex Buisse is a professional adventure photographer who has worked in Chamonix for a decade. He has climbed, skied and flown, all over the Mont Blanc range. His work is currently divided between adventure and humanitarian/development projects. Whether it is a runner focusing before an Olympic race, a refugee becoming the first of her community to receive a university degree, or a climber looking up at the mountain he will measure himself against, emotions are the common thread, human and universal. Telling people stories with earnestness and honesty is what Alex strives to do every time he picks up a camera. Photography has given him many opportunities to live unique experiences, and highlights include sailing an expedition yacht around Cape Horn, being invited to an Ethiopian coffee ceremony in Dadaab Refugee Camp, photographing Usain Bolt at the Olympics, skiing to the North Pole, naming three (small) mountains in Greenland, adventure racing through Tierra del Fuego, climbing on K2 and getting winched, on purpose, from a rescue helicopter at night. Alex is currently based in the alpine mecca of Chamonix, and is available for assignments in both Europe and North America. With current COVID-19 restrictions he remains in France for now and we feel lucky to have him as a guest at the Transylvania Mountain Festival Podcast.

Chloë Lanthier is an elite multi-sport athlete with over 25 years of experience competing on an international platform. She loves cross-country mountain biking and trail running, backcountry skiing, skate skiing, training hard and well, pushing herself and exploring the unknown mentally and physically. With her racing background, mountaineering skills, knowledge of the human body and decades of training, she loves to share and help athletes maximise their physical and mental potential. She is a consultant, author, speaker and education provider in the field of Sports rehabilitation & Performance training, holding a Bachelor in the Science and Physiology of Exercice, a Master of Science diploma in Biomechanics and Human Performance, also a level 3 certification by the National Canadian Coaching Association. In her down time she loves writing and reading and has a weakness for skinning up mountains and skiing fresh powder. Chloë is also the founder of the Chamonix Mountain Endurance Academy and the Chamonix Mountain Running Festival. Her first book – Trail, les clés pour performer sans se blesser was published this February in France by Glenat editions. In this episode we talk about racing at world cup level, sport events in extreme conditions and remote destinations, exploration and the mental game. We also go through some ideas in her book, we touch upon triggers for injuries in trail running and ways to develop an understanding the body and its biomechanics. Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

Charley Radcliffe, Community Manager for The North Face in Chamonix, blogger, and cake aficionado is our guest for this episode of the Transylvania Mountain Festival Podcast, Chamonix 2020 Summer Season. Happiest when he is in the mountains climbing, skiing and running, he moved to Chamonix in 2014 to “live the dream” of a more balanced life between working and the great outdoors. As an aspiring alpinist and adventurer, he is currently focusing on seeing where he can take his love of climbing rock of all kinds, frozen waterfalls and steep alpine north faces. In this episode we talk about moving and adjusting to life in Chamonix, the amazing mountaineering community and of course, about climbing, skiing and ultra running. Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

For the first episode of the #onthego Transylvania Mountain Festival Podcast we invited longtime friend Cosmin Andron as a guest. Cosmin is an educator, philosopher, PADI divemaster and IFMGA mountain guide and also the initiator of Eastern European Mountain Guides Association. EEMGA was set up in February 2016 as a programme meant to establish a consistent training for professional Mountain Guides in East European countries, without IFMGA member associations. EEMGA has since successfully trained the first generation of Eastern European mountain guides who received their certifications in 2018 and is currently training the second generation. In this episode we talk about climbing as a lifelong passion, philosophy and academia, as well as about professional reconversion and creating one's own path. Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!