Podcasts about ifmga

Adrian Ballinger and the Alpenglow Expedition team had success on Everest! First, Sam and Adrian had a chance to catch up briefly following Adrian's 10th summit of the tallest mountain in the world. In this episode of The Duffel Shuffle, the two touch base with Esteban "Topo" Mena, Alpenglow's co-expedition leader, from base camp on the North Side of Mount Everest before Alpenglow's summit push.Topo Mena is an IFMGA guide, Black Diamond Athlete and an inspiration to many. Topo's accomplishments include many summits of 8,000m peaks, including multiple on Everest as well as K2, Gasherbrum I, Gasherbrum II, Cho Oyu, Makalu, and Manaslu, as well as more than 250 summits of Cotopaxi in his home country of Ecuador. Topo has participated in grade VI first ascents in the Himalayas and in the Tien Shan, unsupported ascents without supplementary oxygen of 8000m peaks (including Mount Everest in 2013 at age 23 during his first expedition to the mountain), and numerous ascents pursuing difficulty or speed in his beloved Andes, or in the Himalayas, Karakorum, Alps, Tien Shan, Pamirs and Antarctica.Following up on Episode 2 of the Duffel Shuffle, Sam and Adrian check back with Topo to hear about his recovery, and how he perceives his return to "100%".- Topo talks about his role as Co-Expedition Leader alongside Adrian with Alpenglow Expeditions' Everest Team.- Topo shares a bit about the importance of a strong team on Everest, and how being co-expedition leader alongside such a strong team of guides makes the role easy.- Topo talks about his personal climbing goals, and his continued focus on opening a new route on Mt Everest.You can learn more about Topo on Instagram, @estebantopomena, and through his sponsor https://blackdiamondequipment.com/blogs/athletes/esteban-topo-mena.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

Here at The High Route Podcast we've come to the conclusion of season 2 here on the podcast. We'll pick back up again with season three in late summer.  On this episode, we have the privilege of checking in with Billy Haas. Haas is an IFMGA guide, professional avalanche educator, and ski mountaineer. If you are someone who skims the surface of the ski mountaineering scene, it's easy to see how Haas may not have caught your attention. He barely posts on social media. Google his name, and what populates, mostly are his professional bios—yes, you can find him guiding in the Wasatch, Tetons, and Alaska Range, and other places that require focus and a love for type II fun. But you'll have to dig a bit deeper to get the full picture of Haas and the breadth of his adventuring. Now and then, Haas may author a trip report in the American Alpine Journal, or be part of a crew reporting on a significant descent on, no doubt, complex and steep terrain. What you'll hear about in this podcast is not a “there I was” reflection on this or that steep line. You will, however, learn about Haas' path into guiding, how he once maybe skipped a few lacrosse practices to take an avalanche course on Mount Washington and found a lifelong mountain partnership with Adam Fabrikant.Along the way, there was dishwashing, road trips, lots of aspirational clients, and a vision to be the best he could be practicing his mountain craft. Lastly, we touch upon Haas' story in Issue One of The High Route Journal…titled The Patient. Haas explores his two major heart surgeries— intermittent diversions on his path toward excellence, and climbing and skiing— in good style—Gasherbrum I and II. Thanks for listening, and have a good day, The High Route Team.   If you are new to The High Route, we are a reader and listener-supported enterprise focusing on human-powered turn making. Our mission is simple, but it takes real deal calorie burning to piece it all together.We are also excited to announce Issue 1.0 of The High Route magazine is shipping. Fancy paper. Good reads. High-octane photos. And some fine mountain ranges. And turns. You can learn more about our subscription options here.The theme music for The High Route Podcast comes from Storms in the Hill Country and the album The Self Transforming (Thank you, Jens Langsjoen). You can find a link to the album here—there are so many good songs on this album. And if you think you've spotted a UFO in the past or visited the 7th dimension, "Beautiful Alien" is a good tune to start with. 

In a world flooded with climbing content, tech tips, and loud online opinions, it's easy to feel overwhelmed when you're educating yourself on safety systems. The truth? Learning how to climb safely and efficiently can be confusing—and quite honestly pretty dangerous. So what is the best way to learn? Books, YouTube, mentors, guides? Honestly, it's a mix of all four. Today's guest is someone who has spent his life thinking deeply about how we learn, how we climb, and how we can stay alive in the mountains. Silas Rossi is an IFMGA certified guide, current president of the American Mountain Guides Association, and owner of Alpine Logic Guide Services... With 24 years of climbing under his belt, he's instructed athletes, recreational climbers, and guides around the world. He's climbed the Matterhorn nearly a dozen times, spent multiple seasons in the Alps, and enjoys crushing hard trad routes near his hometown in New York—Silas is the real deal.And yet, despite his deep experience and knowledge, Silas is the first to say that no matter how dialed you are, luck undoubtedly plays a role in the mountains. Mistakes happen. Conditions shift. And with enough time out there, luck is often the invisible hand that tips the balance.But that doesn't mean we're helpless. “Luck is what happens when preparation meets opportunity.” If we prioritize safety, build good systems, and stay aware, we give ourselves the best chance to succeed—and survive.In this conversation, we dig into the philosophy of risk. We uncover the truth that most of us are probably less prepared than we think—for emergencies, for rescues, for moments when things really go sideways. We unpack the phrase: “If you're not falling, you're not trying.” And we go into some simple yet often overlooked ways to build safety and redundancy into our systems.We also take a hard look at the guiding industry in America, the public's misconceptions about hiring guides, and how the influencer-ification of safety content has both helped and hurt the profession.This one is packed with knowledge, insight, and reflection—and I'm stoked to share it with you.----SIGN UP FOR EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! | For a little as $3/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesAlpine Logic (Hire Silas As A Guide)Sign Up For The Ascend MembershipSilas' InstagramSilas' Youtube

Show Notes:Angela's Links:https://alpinist007.com/ (personal website)Angela Hawse takes helm of American Mountain Guides Association board as group leans on women to foster change in guiding cultureEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Angela Hawse.Angela was the 6th woman in the U.S. to become an IFMGA mountain guide with a successful career spanning over three decades. She's trained and examined aspiring guides for the AMGA for the past 19 years and served as the AMGA president for five. Angela's led over 30 high altitude mountaineering expeditions to the world's Greater Ranges and guided remote trips to the Arctic and Antarctic. She skied from Sweden to Norway across Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (500' higher than K2) and has led numerous technical all-women's ascents.She's currently on the board of the IFMGA and the 1st woman and non-European to join the Technical Commission. Angela has a Master's Degree in International Mountain Conservation, is on the POW Alliance Team and a Black Diamond athlete. In 2011 she was awarded AMGA Guide of the Year and in 2022 received the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.I love that she considers herself successful in mountain guiding because she still loves the profession and is still in it for the same reason that she got into it initially. She established a lifelong love of playing in the mountains since she was a kid. Her curiosity let her explore all facets of life related to guiding, and she hardly found boredom. We talked about dealing with burnout, giving back to the communities, her AMGA work, changes in the environment and the industry in the past 30+ years, and making a guide career sustainable. I'm super inspired by all the wisdom Angela brought in. Now please enjoy this episode with Angela Hawse.Things We Talked about:Has been guiding for 3.5 decades and still going strongAngele's special sauce to keep her in the industry for this longStay curiousDiversifyMental bandwidthChildhoodPrescott college and first role modelWas a dedicated climber for many many years before thinking about guidingVarious jobs from Outward Bound, an adjunct position in Prescott, working for different guide services so on and so forthExpeditions and giving backAll women's expeditionsWhat was is like being one of few female guides back then?Ways to develop confidenceAMGA president – what happened during those yearsAMGA's DEI workAngela deeply cares about climate changeTrends and changes Angela saw in the past 3.5 decades in the mountains and in the industryBeing a guide in the US full timeWhat does Angela's work consist of now?Alpinist 007

Australian adventurer Alex Geary discovered his passion for mountaineering during a winter in Canada, leaving behind a potential mechanical engineering career. With experience climbing and skiing globally—from Europe to New Zealand—Alex is now an IFMGA-certified guide. His expertise spans ski instruction, avalanche forecasting, and mountain safety. Combining a technical background with a natural affinity for guiding, Alex lives to share his love for the mountains, offering clients a unique mix of adventure, skill, and inspiration.

Joe Stock, an IFMGA-licensed mountain guide from Anchorage, Alaska, authored "The Avalanche Factor," which won the 2024 National Outdoor Book Award. The book is praised for its innovative approach to avalanche education, urging readers to consider terrain over technical details. Stock also discusses risk management and lifelong mountain activity.

EP 35 – Kristin Arnold & Sheldon Kerr – Break Down Barriers – Female Guides Requested PodcastKristin's & Sheldon's Links:Moxie Website: https://www.moxiemountainguides.com/The indigenous organization Moxie supports in SW CO: https://store.southernute-nsn.gov/product-category/bgcsu/All In Ice Fest: https://allinicefest.com/DEI trainings Kristin and Sheldon have completed and activists from the community that have helped to support their learning: Check Your Privilege: https://www.checkyourprivilege.co/store & Habit Queer: https://www.habitqueer.com/about-meThese Colorado Women Are Reframing What It Means to Be a Mountain Guide – 5280The Woman Who Is Pushing for Gender Equality in the Guiding World – PowderEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have two guests, Kristin Arnold and Sheldon Kerr, founders of Moxie Mountain Guides. I was super excited to finally pinned them down from their busy schedule to have this conversation. When I edited this episode, I paused multiple times to reflect and ask myself questions. What is a guide? What is a good guide? What are the so-called soft skills and how do they play a role in risk management? I learned so much from them and I'm so happy that they started Moxie.Both Kristin and Sheldon are IFMGA mountain guides. IFMGA stands for International Federation of Mountain Guides Association, and their certification is the highest credential attainable by a professional mountain guide. As of spring 2024, they are 2 of 17 total women IFMGA in the US. Together they created Moxie Mountain Guides to align the profession of guiding with their values. Let me share a quote from their website “We guide for good. We believe representation matters. We want the mountain to be inclusive space for women, non-binary and trans-identifying backcountry athletes – no matter your body type, race, or gender.” Moxie strives to break down the social and financial barriers to accessing high-end technical instruction.Kristin and Sheldon are also AMGA Instructor Team members. They teach AMGA mountain guide programs, including women's Rock Guide course. I heard encouraging stories from their students and was curious to learn more about their philosophy and approach. In this episode we had a deep dive into what affinity space does, why inclusion is a fundamental component of risk management, how we should advocate equality and justice, and what professionalism means to guides. You will recognize their voices very quickly when you start listening, but to give you a head start. The first person talked was Kristin. Without further ado, let's go and enjoy the Moxie ride!

Steve welcomes long time climbing partner, extremely accomplished mountain athlete, IFMGA guide, Piolet d‘Or winner, owner of Skyward mountaineering, dad, and husband, Vince Anderson, to the podcast. They discuss their groundbreaking ascent of the Rupal face on Nanga Parbat in 2005 and work to find meaning and understanding of the origin of thoughts, feelings, and motivations in the mountains. They connect those findings back to established schools of thought and the experience they had on Nanga Parbat. With the framework of the climbs, Steve and Vince try to unpack the meaning of suffering and the undying belief in the meaning and importance of their actions. On the 19th anniversary of their landmark climb, these two legends of the sport share their wisdom and learnings from years of hard earned experience.Check out more information on this episode at: https://uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains/

When it comes to delivering adventure, you will only go as far as your body allows. The challenge for many of us is that in our quest for adventure we can neglect our own self care.When this happens our performance can decline, our decision-making abilities can be compromised, and we are more prone to making mistakes that can lead to misadventure. This makes the ability to effectively manage self care an essential adventure skill.One person that knows this all too well is Sarah Janin. Sarah is a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic who guides split boarding, skiing, rock and alpine climbing. Sarah is on the final leg of working towards becoming the first IFMGA certified Mountain Guide who has type 1 diabetes. Based in Boulder Colorado, Sarah currently works as a full-time guide and one of the head guides at the Colorado Mountain School.As someone who didn't start rock climbing until she was in her mid-thirties, Sarah is well aware of the importance of self-care. Her dedication to self-care allowed her to pursue a guiding designation in her forties when most people start down this path in their twenties. Being diabetic, failing to practice effective self-care while leading such an active life can literally lead to fatal consequences.In this discussion, we discuss what it takes to manage our self care and why it's so hard to do it well. Sarah gives us an extremely candid account of what it takes to manage our self-care as leaders and how to manage it for others. She also gives us a unique insight into the life of someone who delivers adventure as an insulin dependent diabetic.Key TakeawaysIt takes discipline: This includes being diligent about preparing ourselves beforehand and following up with recovery such as stretching, strengthening and rehabilitative care such as physiotherapy afterwards.The importance of pacing: Sarah touched on the value of taking breaks to recharge, taking rest days, and varying activity. Taking rest days and doing different activity can keep us fresh and give different muscles a break while others get a workout.Being vigilante: This includes staying situationally aware of ourselves and the people we might be leading. This may require us to check in with people and ourselves regularly.Educating ourselves and others: On what to look for to keep everyone operating at their peak. This can add value to the overall experience. Who doesn't like to learn how to perform better?Scaling back to pace energy is not a loss, it's a win: It can allow us to perform better, enjoy what we are doing and ultimately to go farther. As the saying goes, Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.Guest BioSarah Janin is a full-time mountain guide at Colorado Mountain School located in Boulder Colorado. She is the only full-time female guide at this time and one of their head guides. Sarah became one of the first certified female splitboard guides in America this March of 2024 making history.Sarah is on the AMGA track with one more exam to complete this summer. Her goal is to become the 19th certified female American Mountain Guide. Sarah will then have to pass a ski movement test in order to become IFMGA certified which will be her focus this winter.Sarah has worked as a guide for a decade after getting to experience a few different careers before settling on her true passion. Sarah is also a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic and has been for over 43 years. She will potentially become the first diabetic certified guide this year.Guest LinksColorado Mountain School: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Follow or SubscribeDon't forget to follow the show!Share & Social Links

در این اپیزود تاریخچه و داستان هیجان‌انگیز راهنمایان کوهستان در شامونی را می‌شنویم. همین‌طور در مورد گایدهای IFMGA صحبت می‌کنیم و از زبان چند گاید می‌شنویم که چطور می‌شود یک راهنمای بین‌المللی کوهستان شد.اسپانسر این اپیزود محصولات غذایی آف‌کوک است.اینستاگرام آف‌کوکلینک حمایت مالیMusic: Pixabay, BreakzStudios, The Mountainمنابع:Book The Compagnie des guides de Chamonix, A HistoryIFMGA websiteSummit post Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete Podcast season on altitude, Alyssa welcomes IFMGA guide and Uphill Athlete coach, Jerome Sullivan, on to the podcast. Jerome has spent significant time climbing technical objectives in high to extreme altitudes and has found much success in being awarded a Piolets d'Or in 2016. Jerome and Alyssa discuss the risks and challenges of not only existing, but performing at high altitudes. They dive into the mental and physical preparations as well as the deep partnerships needed to stay safe in difficult objectives. They also discuss Jerome's memorable experiences at altitude and when to choose between continuing forward and turning back. Join us for an exciting conversation about what it takes to perform at altitude.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com

Show Notes:Margaret's links:Instagram https://www.instagram.com/margaret_wheeler/Meet Margaret Wheeler (AMGA video)Among Mountain Guides, This Woman Is a Rarity – Ski MagWhy IFMGA-certified guide Margaret Wheeler believes that variety makes a difference in the mountains (backcountrymagazine.com)The Ultimate Guide | Dartmouth Alumni MagazineEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting delivering this wonderful new episode from my home country Taiwan. I am very excited about today's guest, Margaret Wheeler. I still remember how amazed I was years ago, seeing her, very pregnant, teaching technical skills in an AMGA video. After I started this podcast I kept getting requests to have her on the show. I was fortunate to finally steal a couple hours from her busy life!In the guiding world, Margaret needs little introduction. She is the second U.S. woman to earn the IFMGA mountain guide title. She is an instructor of guide training for the AMGA and serves on its board of directors and as president of the organization. She is involved in avalanche education through her work as an AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) instructor and trainer. Right now Margaret and her husband Matt Farmer split their time between the Wood River Valley Idaho and Europe.Margaret is a wonderful story teller and her life never has a dull moment. She started chasing her brothers around the ski slopes of New England which led to a stint ski bumming in Chamonix France right after college. She bounced back and forth between the so-called real life and wild adventures and eventually found her happy true identity in mountain guiding. She also shared so much wisdom and philosophy about guiding from years of experience and her analytical approach to problem solving. She provided a viewpoint on guiding as a career, her expectations towards guide education and how the guiding community can help each other navigate through various challenges. Margaret talked specifically about how to make guiding a sustainable career and how to balance that with having a familyTime flew by quickly and I didn't even get to ask all of my questions. I hope I will soon have a chance to do another follow up interview with her. Listeners please enjoy this fantastic episode and let me know what other questions you might want to ask Margaret next time!

Episode 4 of Mountain Voices focuses on the subject of women at altitude. Inspiration came from the work of the UIAA Medical Commission who have played a leading role in the publication of a number of papers dedicated to women and mountaineering. Topics covered across the papers include altitude sickness, frostbite, nutrition and papers on female-specific issues like menopause. Mountain Voices tackles the following questions: Are women more or less prone to cold and altitude related illnesses than men? Do women need to follow different advice? and do women make safer mountaineers? Contributions come from two of the authors of the UIAA Medical Commission papers, namely Dr Jacqueline Pichler Hefti, a Senior Physician at the University of Bern, Clinic for Pulmonary Medicine and Dr Alison Rosier, an Organisational Psychologist & Strategic Change Consultant. IFMGA guide Emilie Drinkwater, the ninth woman to qualify as a full mountain guide in the United States, and a leader of several expeditions all over the world, offers the perspective of climbing with both all female and all male groups. Further details on the UIAA Medical Commission papers can be found here.The recently released women in mountaineering papers, the result of a number of years of dedicated research and work, have been published in the High Altitude Medicine & Biology journal. They are available to view, free of charge, until November 2024.----Mountain Voices is a podcast series from the International Climbing and Mountaineering Federation (UIAA)Presented and produced by Tarquin CooperCo-produced by Peter BourneEdited by Tom Tushaw Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

【本期简介】本期嘉宾的是 Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme（ENSA）法国国立登山滑雪学校的教练高宁，他1981年就来过中国攀登珠峰，1983年还尝试小团队无氧攀登珠峰，最后失败，在成都做过法国驻成都总领事馆副领事，有10多年在中国生活的经验，帮助建立西藏登山学校，我们之前一期节目嘉宾攀登运动员杨小华，在高宁的帮助下正在ENSA学习，有希望成为获得ENSA认证高山向导的第一位中国女性攀登者。高宁非常有国际视野，用文化比较视角看待中国和欧洲的差异，非常客观中立且有启发性。【主播】楥子、深焦镜头【嘉宾】Serge Koenig（高宁）Ecole Nationale de Ski et d'Alpinisme（ENSA）法国国立登山滑雪学校International & Development Manager【Timeline】01:10-03:00 从ENSA开始，又回到ENSA做老师03:15-05:30 人生第一次攀登是在14岁的时候，然后就停不下来了05:50-08:00第一次来中国是1981年，攀登珠峰；第二次来中国是1983年，还是攀登珠峰，但这一次是无氧攀登08:10-9:50 第三次来中国是帮西藏拉萨建立攀登学校10:00-25:10 高宁对真正中国的认识，全都在他的书里。“我有两个故乡，一个在成都，一个在霞慕尼。”25:30-30:50 ENSA是一所什么样的学校？建立的初衷是什么？31:00-34:50 进入ENSA学习之前需要进行非常严格的面试，这是为什么？35:00-39:00 为什么不考虑降低ENSA面试的标准？或者缩短培训的时间？39:20-43:00 ENSA学校的背面墙体上，有一幅非常有代表性的油画，这幅画就是高宁画的43:10-46:00 每年八月十五日，在霞慕尼都会举办登山向导节46:30-48:50 IFMGA国际登山向导协会联盟里有二十五个成员国，为什么中国没有加入？49:00-58:30 杨小华会成为第一位获得ENSA认证的中国人，因为她非常认真和努力！

Ep 8.20 Mentorship and community building What is mentorship? How does it strengthen a community? Is mentorship even the right word? Let's dive in… Backcountry skiing and riding can be an intimidating sport to get into. We all know the avalanche and first aid courses are a must, but it can be hard to connect with more experienced backcountry users to practice the skills. How does a person find that mentorship of a more experienced backcountry traveler and build a community of like minded people interested in getting after it and safely shredding the pow? There are organizations around North America (and probably around the world) dedicated to helping new backcountry skiers and riders make those connections. Tune in for conversations with the fine folks from such organizations as The Avalanche Awareness Beyond the Boundaries Society, Ascent Mentorships, State of the Snowpack, and Colour the Trails. Respectively, these organizations open doors and create opportunities specifically for youth, for women, for all backcountry users in a specific locale, and for Black, Indigenous and People of Colour. These organizations provide mentorship in different ways: in a course setting, one-on-one, in a live event setting, and in a group. They are a small selection of the awesome groups creating opportunities for new backcountry users, and creating community in the process. Several other organizations are referenced in the episode. They are listed below. This podcast is all about creating a stronger community amongst those with a curious fascination with avalanches. If you have an organization in your area that is doing great work opening doors, providing opportunities and building community – share it in the comments below this episode, or on the related Instagram post. Thanks for being part of that community! You can find our guests on social media at: https://www.facebook.com/AvalancheAwarenessBeyondBoundaries/ @kootenaymountainculture https://www.facebook.com/ascentmentors/ https://www.ascentmentors.ca/ @stateofthesnowpack @colourthetrails @jujumil Other groups referenced in the episode: @mountain.mentors @incluskivity @theladyalliance @aiare_official @ilsacrew @hoodstowoods @mwv_icefest @phil_henderson Other episodes referenced in the episode: 5:18 – Mt.Jumbo, Missoula Montana 6:23 – Graeme Marshal, High School Avalanche education 8.1 – Ken Wylie, IFMGA mountain guide. 6.11 – Judson Wright 5.13 – Keith Robine 4.4 Brenden Cronin Music for this episode by Gravy @gravy.tunes www.wyssenavalanche.com www.gordini.com https://opensnow.com/ https://www.safeback.no/

Show Notes:Sarah's links:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sarah.b.jamin/CMS guide profile: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarah.janin.7Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday and happy Valentine's Day. Our guest today is Sarah Janin from Boulder Colorado. A mutual friend highly recommended Sarah to me and I was so glad that I had the honor to interview her.Many things about Sarah amaze me. She grew up on a small island and immediately fell in love with mountains and snow sports when she moved to Colorado. She can soon become the first female AMGA certified splitboard guide. She is also type 1 diabetic but she manages it well and is actively pursuing another big goal of hers to become the first type 1 diabetic IFMGA guide.After many career changes, she found guiding at 35 and fell in love with it. Now at 45, Sarah appreciates that she started her guiding career later in life as she is still motivated and passionate to improve as a guide and does not feel burnt out. Right now Sarah is a Certified Rock Guide, Aspirant Splitboard Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, Avalanche Instructor, and WFR Instructor. She works full time for Colorado Mountain School, and has been working hard to organize more women's programs. One of her goals is to continue to empower and create a more open environment for all who identify as female.I really enjoyed talking with Sarah. She emitted so much positive energy and has so much devotion to what she set her mind to do. Let's dive in and I know you will be inspired by the conversation.Things We Talked about:From an island girl to a mountain girlGrowing up in the wildernessMoved to CO and fell into with mountains and snow sportsLoved snowboardingIn order to extend winter, let's go to South AmericaCompare skiing with snowboardingSkis are better tool for guiding and the reasons…It was an accident that Sarah became a guideAt some point decided to work for a company and stayed inside but the company sent her to Boulder COSpeed up the AMGA trackBest part of guiding?Want to show people the wilderness and the importance to preserve itDid gender ever play a role in Sarah's guiding career?Has always worked in male-dominated fieldsConfidence and determination helpedHow to manage being type I diabetic?How does it feel to instruct all female groupsCreate a better environment for womenApproach to facilitate all women coursesHow to turn experience into confidenceFound guiding relatively lateMotion is lotionNext steps/goalsProudest moment

In this episode, I sit down with Josh Jespersen. Josh is the deputy director of operations at the Silverton Avalanche School, an IFMGA guide, and a former Navy Seal. We talk about his experience transitioning to civilian life, and how adventures in the mountains helped create perspective and purpose. Josh climbed and skied all of Colorado's 54 14ers in a record-breaking duration of 138 days, and we discuss how he worked to manage risk with such an objective-driven goal. He is the founder and president of Veteran's Outdoor Advocacy Group, an organization that works to enable access to outdoor adjunct therapies for all Veterans in need. We chat about why this is so important, and how the snow, avalanche, and guiding communities can get involved. We hope you enjoy our conversation. Music by Ketsa Veteran's Outdoor Advocacy Group: www.voag.org Thank you to the sponsors of this episode: Wyssen Avalanche Control Gordini USA Open Snow IPA Collective

Phill has been an active mountaineer for over 40 years. During that time he has completed the Winter Mountain Climbing Instructor (WMCI) qualification and the British Mountain Guides scheme (IFMGA) which qualifies him for all aspects of mountaineering activities world wide. Phill is a qualified teacher and has worked for private and local Education based centres throughout the country on an instructional basis and as a technical expert. Based in Snowdonia, he is now a very popular provider of National Governing Body Awards for Summer Mountain Leader (ML) Rock Climbing Instructor (RCI) and Hill & Moorland (HML)  

Steve House began venturing into the high mountains as a teenager, and has since built a career on climbing, guiding and coaching. By the time he published his book Beyond the Mountain in 2009, Reinhold Messner said House was “at the top of mountaineering.”  House's life in climbing has taken him all over the world. His most famous ascent may be the Central Pillar of Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face, a climb he completed with Vince Anderson. But he has compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps and the Karakoram. Steve has been a professional mountain guide since 1992, and in 1999 he became the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification. But these days House lives in a small Austrian mountain town with his wife and two kids. In the mornings he spends time getting outside, while the later part of the day is dedicated to working with his company Uphill Athlete. He retired from professional climbing in 2020.  In this episode, we revisit passages from Steve's book Beyond the Mountain, discuss fatherhood, and finding his way in his new home in Austria. We learn about the climb that drove him to focus more on training and preparation, and eventually led him to start his company, Uphill Athlete.  And, we learn more about how he thinks about climbing and what it is to be human—to focus on the act of becoming rather than being. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from Osprey. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Steve House Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn

In Episode 3, we have an update from last week's conversation about parking before recapping the amazing storm last Friday that produced the best conditions so far this season. After that, Billy Haas joins me for a discussion about what low and moderate avalanche hazard really means when we are dealing with persistent slab avalanche problems. We'll discuss strategies for entering terrain when conditions are trending in a positive direction. Billy is one of the most well spoken people I know in the snow and avalanche world and is exceptional at translating data and science to real world decision making. He is an IFMGA guide, professional avalanche educator, and a passionate ski mountaineer. I hope you enjoy our honesty in the interview and remember to have patience and humility this coming weekend.If you are curious about where these danger ratings and avalanche problems come from, check out this article titled A Conceptual Model for Avalanche Hazard. I encourage any backcountry skier or rider in the Wasatch to be a member of the Wasatch Backcountry Alliance. These folks are doing great work to build community and provide solutions to transportation problems. As always, reach out if you'd like to be on the Salt Lake Snowcast or have a story to share with our community. I would be psyched to share your art, activism, or community building efforts. Please talk about us to your ski partners and give us a follow on Instagram @saltlakesnowcast or send us an email saltlakesnowcast@gmail.com.

There are some foundational values here at The High Route. Right at the top of the list is inspiring backcountry travelers to dream big adventures, and when the time is right, go out and have that adventure. Adventure has gradients, and this might seem like a tangent, but it's worthwhile—there was a 94-year-old at the climbing gym this afternoon. He's a regular. And it certainly looked like he was owning his adventure pulling plastic.So, there is time to learn, get fit, and push the comfort zone just enough to make something happen. This is all in the spirit of today's podcast, where we speak with some fine folks about their experiences on the Redline Traverse in California's Sierras. IFMGA guide Jed Porter completed the Redline in 2017, primarily solo. Spencer Dillon, a law student at the University of Utah, and his partner Matt Skorina maximized the gift of a deep Sierra snowpack to complete their iteration of the Redline in the spring of 2023. As far as high Sierra ski traverses go, the Redline is mythical. The route was first completed in the early 80s by Allan Bard, Tom Carter, and Chris Cox. Several others assisted the endeavor along the way, but Bard, Carter, and Cox had the vision and the moxy to see it through. Traversing south to north, the Redline begins near Whitney Portal outside Lone Pine, California, and terminates at Mammoth. The intent was to stay as high as possible and ski excellent lines. But all this was in the 80s—a time when even military use of GPS was a decade off. In a trip report on his Redline experience, Porter wrote, "Carter and Bard, in the November 1983 issue of Powder magazine, map out the line with the poetry of vision rather than the prose of prescription." That is to say, a point by point, pass to pass, couloir to couloir rendering of the original route isn't, as far as we can tell, publically available. And we're sticking with an originalist interpretation, following Bard's and Carter's and Cox's lead; the route description in this podcast will remain vague.As noted, the intent is to inspire others to go have an adventure. The high Sierra is a vast expanse—the perfect place, when the snow conditions, the fitness, the gear, and a partnership align, to make a go of it. We chat all things Redline with Porter and Dillon from snow to gear to visioning and style. You can learn more about Jed Porter here, and find his Redline Traverse gear list here. You can read Spencer Dillon's story about his trip here, on the Skimo Co blog. Thanks for listening.    You can find us at the-high-route.com. Yeah, there are two hyphens for redundancy, which is a good policy in the mountains. For weight weenies, hyphens weigh next to nothing. We are a reader supported website with free podcasts. Our podcasts are not free to produce or store on a server. If you are enjoying the podcasts, please consider supporting The High Route, you can find subscription information here. The theme music for The High Route Podcast comes from Storms in the Hill Country and the album The Self Transforming (Thank you, Jens Langsjoen). You can find a link to the album here—there are so many good songs on this album. And if you think you've spotted a UFO in the past or visited the 7th dimension, "Beautiful Alien" is a good tune to start with.

In this episode, Caleb sits down with Rob Coppolillo. Rob is an IFMGA guide, avalanche educator, and author of The Ski Guide Manual (among other titles). Rob talks about his progression to become a pinned mountain guide, tips his hat to some folks who influenced him along the way, and chats about living and ski guiding in Europe. We discuss some ideas on effective avalanche education as well as what went into writing his books. Rob reflects on a couple close ones....and then reflects on reflecting (debriefing!). We hope you enjoy! Music on today's episode is Ketsa: "40 something" and "Anvil" Thanks to the sponsors of today's episode: Wyssen Avalanche Control Gordini Propagation Labs

It's the season opener of the podcast…Welcome back! In this episode, Caleb sits down with Ken Wylie. Ken is an IFMGA guide who works extensively in the field of human hazard management. His business, Archetypal works with first line workers, guide teams, and more to help people understand how they are showing up to critical decision making processes. Ken talks about his involvement in a tragic avalanche accident in 2003 that left him buried for 40 minutes. Ken wrote a book, Buried 2020 that chronicles his journey to make meaning out of and heal from this avalanche. He has plenty of wisdom to share about what, for many of us can only be our worst nightmare coming to life. Ken talks about parts of the process that has helped him in healing from this life altering event. We hope you enjoy our conversation. Music by Ketsa. Ken's Website: archetypal.ca Blog: https://www.archetypal.ca/blog Email: Ken@archetypal.ca Video Links: “The Weight We Carry” https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wug0wO-P-Ns The Zone Film https://vimeo.com/740476166 Podcasts: The Existence Project: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oXilw8KXDc&feature=youtu.be Stories From The Field: https://podcasts.apple.com/us/podcast/buried-a-story-of-healing-after-a-high/id1440862416?i=1000617688958 Intuitively Aligned Podcast: https://podcasts.apple.com/ca/podcast/ep-18-from-avalanche-to-awakening-with-ken-wylie/id1684581754?i=1000627584802

For Alan Rousseau, the allure of mountaineering is in the unknown. When he looks up at a mountain and contemplates whether it can be climbed, he sees a mystery to be solved.  Rousseau is an IFMGA guide who divides his time between pursuing his own goals in the mountains, and helping others do the same. His achievements in the Alaska Range, to which he has ventured more than twenty times, include first ascents of Ruth Gorge Grinder and Aim for the Bushes. In 2020, his first ascent of the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau with Tino Villanueva was recognized as one of the year's greatest climbing achievements and the pair won a Piolets d'Or. Villanueva wrote about the climb in Alpinist 81.  In this episode, Alan reflects on more than ten years of climbing in the Alaska Range, and exploratory climbs like Aim For the Bushes that he and his partners established earlier this year. He talks about the difference between planning trips to Alaska and the Himalaya, and the mountains that act as his compass. This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Alan Rousseau Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn  

In this Episode, Tendi & Alan talk about Tendi's upbringing in Khembalung, Nepal, how he became a mountaineer & guide, what lead to the creation of HIMALI, stories from 15+ years of guiding on Everest, and more! About the guests: Tendi Sherpa is the CoFounder of HIMALI™ & an incredible human being. He grew up in a remote village in Nepal, went to school to become a monk, and went on to become an IFMGA certifies guide with 15 summits of Mount Everest. He gives back to his community through the ‘Tendi Sherpa Foundation', an organization that provides access to education & safe work environments in rural areas of Nepal. Alan Arnette is a Coach, Keynote Speaker, Mountaineer and Alzheimer's Advocate. His blog is cited as "one of the world's most respected chroniclers of Everest" by Outside Magazine & is in the ‘top 5 outdoor blogs' by gear junkie magazines. He is an  Everest summiteer in 2011 and he became the oldest American to summit K2 at 58 years old on his birthday July 27, 2014. You can find HIMALI™ at: Website: www.himali.com Instagram: @himali https://www.instagram.com/himali/ Facebook: @himalilife https://www.facebook.com/himalilife Twitter: @himalilife Email: support@himali.com Phone: +1 (970) 445 4133 Get 10% Off your 1st order when you sign up for our email newsletter! https://www.himali.com/pages/subscribe

As Season 7 of the podcast comes to an end, this episode is a bit of a smorgasbord of guests. First we hear from Dara Miles who reached out after hearing the Avalanche Terrain Exposure Scale episode. Dara started the Colorado ATES project and stops by to tell us more about it. We then dive into a conversations with IFMGA guide Gary Kuehn and Ian Snape from Frontline Mind. They are running a "resiliency scan" amongst snow and avalanche professionals to find out more about our profession as a whole in terms of our reactions to stressful and difficult situations. To wrap up the episode, Kevin Grove, Co-Chair of the 2023 ISSW swings by to give us a glimpse as to what to expect at the Bend International Snow Science Workshop coming up in October. It's been a pleasure hosting and producing the podcast this season, and I couldn't have done it with a little help from my friends. Thanks to all the contributing hosts that shared the load with me: Dom Baker, Sean Zimmerman-Wall, Wesley Gregg, Matthias Walcher, and Brooke Edwards! Also a huge shout out for the production help from Wes and Cameron Griffin. The podcast wouldn't be possible without support from companies such as Wyssen Avalanche Control, Athletic Greens, Six Point Engineering, CalTopo, and Backcountry Nav. Links: Colorado ATES Project Facebook Page: https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100087388533494 Frontline Mind: www.frontlinemind.com TAKE THE RESILIENCY SCAN SURVEY HERE: https://collector.sensemaker-suite.com/collector?projectID=141065e1-09dd-48f5-be2a-10158efd03a7 ISSW2023: https://www.issw2023.com/

On Episode 262 of the Enormocast, I connect across continents and oceans to Switzerland and Caroline George. Caroline is one of the most accomplished climbers you've never heard of, an early female IFMGA guide, a mom, and a Swiss Ms. She holds US, French, and Swiss passports which open the world for climbing and professional … Continue reading "Enormocast 262: Caroline George – Belonging"

Steve House is Founder of Uphill Athlete and a proudly retired professional climber and mountain guide. Jan has known him for years. For 21 years, Steve was a professional climber. In 1999 he became only the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification, which is the highest level to guide all over the world. He has guided trips all across the world. In this discussion, Steve shares his journey from mountain sports to high-altitude climbing, to a nearly fatal fall, to coaching. Besides coaching mountain athletes, his current challenge is getting his pilot's license. Steve talks about the purposes of mountain sports and how separation from daily distractions while moving your body through nature guides you on your journey.   https://bit.ly/TLP-354   Key Takeaways   [1:53] Jan shares Steve's bio. (See at the end of the show notes.) [4:19] Steve thanks Jan and Jim for the invitation to The Leadership Podcast. As a professional athlete, there's not much that's not in his public bio. He's almost a private pilot and is less than a month from taking his final practical exam. He describes a recent incredible flight and the energy flying gives him. [7:09] When Steve was 20, he was studying in college to be an aeronautical engineer. Then he got hijacked by climbing. Now he has the chance to come back and do something he has always loved. [8:17] In 2010, Steve was doing a training climb preparing for an expedition to do a new route on the west face of K2 with an expert fellow climber. He had a bad fall of around 100 feet. He broke 24 ribs. Two ribs were smashed into innumerable pieces. He had multiple pelvis fractures, knocked all the spinal processes off his vertebrae, and had many internal injuries. [9:18] Steve lay on his back for about two hours. He knew he had hemopneumothorax. His breathing grew shallow as his chest cavity filled with blood. What came out of that was a lot of self-reflection. He had to come to terms with his drive to become the very best at what he did. That was his mission statement. [10:45] As Steve reflected, at age 39, he was trying to figure out if he would function again. He had to think about what his values were, and what he cared about and wanted to do. Was it time to change his mission statement? He hadn't accomplished everything in climbing but he decided he had accomplished enough. He could be proud of what he did do, and he was going to pivot to other values and other goals. [11:57] In elite sports, you're boxed off from the world. You eat, sleep, train, and go climb. You save all your energy to be better. It's how you achieve individual greatness. But you're not part of a team. Steve saw his crisis as a time to reflect and redirect. [13:48] Steve thinks that due to the intensity with which he pursued his goals, he required an intense jolt to trigger reflection. Anything less wasn't going to work. He notes that most of the people he climbed with are dead. That's how risky and dangerous climbing is. Steve has only a handful of friends from that era that are still alive. Steve realized he was going to join those who were no longer alive if he continued. [15:29] As a mountain sports trainer, Steve is in a position to help athletes get past the binary narrative of success or failure. There's a much greater range of possible experiences. We have often seen that the one that came in first cheated or used performance-enhancing substances. The whole paradigm is broken. There is another way to experience sports. Mountain sports do not have a history of competition. [17:02] Steve would tell his younger self he was always going to feel like an imposter, and that was completely OK, and that everybody else does, too. That feeling was one of the things that were hardest for him to overcome. It goes back to childhood. He was the scrawny little kid that wasn't good at sports. [18:49] One of the things that Steve learned from childhood was grit. He loved gritty experiences from a very early age. When he was 10, he backpacked his first 50-mile hike. When he was 11, he climbed Mount Hood. These were just things they did as a family or with his father. He enjoyed it. [20:37] Steve and his Uphill Athlete team talk about Campbell's Hero's Journey paradigm and try to figure out what step their client is on for that journey. The goal is to help them through that one step. Everyone is on the same journey, at a different step. [23:22] Uphill Athlete doesn't exist to motivate people but to educate and inspire. Coaching is education and teaching people how they can apply endurance training methodologies and see the changes in their bodies. It takes a couple of months for people to get fully bought in and see their progress. When they get to that epiphany, they are committed to the journey for life and remain in the Uphill Athlete community. [25:17] Going back to the imposter syndrome, Steve is often surprised that he knows the answer. And the only reason he can know the answer is because he lived it through 20 years of being an athlete. These are things you cannot learn in a physiology textbook. [26:05] What holds people back is their minds, their fears, their insecurities, and the pieces that they don't understand, or can't conceptualize well. Those are the questions Steven can clear up easily, but he is always surprised. [27:37] Steve tried to teach a man with a Ph.D. in exercise physiology how to coach but it was impossible because he didn't understand what it felt like in his body to do what was written on the training plan. He couldn't relate to the people even though he'd run circles around everybody on the science. [28:27] When Steve interviews people to be coaches, he's looking for people who have a unique superpower. He doesn't need 15 people that all know the same thing. He needs people that have different backgrounds and experiences and are willing and eager to share with other people and also learn from them. They have to be far enough along on their journey that they can take feedback constructively. [29:17] When you have a team that can do all of those things, it's incredible. Steve's team includes physical therapists, medical doctors, masters in high altitude physiology, and coaches that have coached every endurance sport you can imagine. They have great energy between them. [30:29] Some people Steven hires have well-defined superpowers. Some younger people don't know their superpower. Steven describes how he leverages coaches to develop the superpower in people within a relationship that is entirely a safe place for them to ask those “dumb questions.” [33:39] Steve has a lot of athletes that do not have a set goal. They want to learn and experience and be in a community of like-minded people. Steve tells them it's OK not to have an Everest goal. Sometimes it's enough to engage with people as you learn. [36:10] Arthur Brooks's new book, From Strength to Strength, is about finding clarity in the second chapter of life. [36:47] Steve uses the phrase, “naming the uncertainty.” Write down what you don't know. Let that sit. People come back to him in a month and say it was great to let that sink in. There are more than two chapters for a lot of people. [37:38] Mountain sports have an important role to play in people's journeys. Being in the wilderness in small teams and overcoming obstacles lets the noise go away. So much more happens out there than we give it credit for. People are not getting pings out there moving their bodies through nature and letting their subconscious minds do the work. Steve has solved writer's block many times with a long walk. [43:52] Steven's final thought: “It's joyful to learn something. It's joyful to become fitter. It's joyful to climb a mountain. … Walking up a summit ridge and standing on top of a mountain is ultimately no different than walking into the grocery store and going to the cereal aisle. But what is different is if you've been to the top of the mountain, you have an appreciation for all the rest.” [45:34] Closing quote: Remember, “People say, ‘Are you insane?' But the most successful climbers are the most calculating, with the most refined sense of risk. They're hyper-conscious of safety. They're the least insane people I know.” — Jimmy Chin   Quotable Quotes “I'm almost a private pilot. … I'm less than a month away. … I just had an amazing flight. … I flew from Slovenia down into Croatia, landed on an island, … flew back to Slovenia, landed … in the mountains in Slovenia, Took off from there, and returned to the home airport.” “[After a difficult accomplishment], at the end of the day, you just feel so full of energy and experience and awe.” “In 2010, I was doing a training climb. I was preparing for an expedition to climb a new route, … and … I fell around 100 feet. I broke 24 ribs, … I had multiple pelvis fractures, … [and] internal injuries. … I lay there for about two hours. I had a hemopneumothorax.” “We don't always need a crisis. Sometimes it just takes a long walk in the woods. But I think that reassessing our values and making sure that they align with our purpose and our mission is probably something that all of us have to do many times throughout our lives.”  “This whole thing of like, ‘If you're not first, you're last,' invalidates pretty much everyone's  experience except one person's.” “I loved gritty experiences from a very early age.” “I'm often surprised that I know the answer. And the only reason I can know the answer is because I lived it through 20 years of being an athlete. These are things you cannot learn in a physiology textbook.” “I've written four books now and I can't tell you how many times writer's block has just been solved by a long walk — and with no purpose. A walk with no purpose.”   Resources Mentioned Theleadershippodcast.com Sponsored by: Darley.com Rafti Advisors. LLC Self-Reliant Leadership. LLC Steve House Uphill Athlete Vince Anderson Central Pillar of the Rupal Face Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Ace) Reinhold Messner Campbell's Hero's Journey Krebs Cycle Tom Higley From Strength to Strength: Finding Success, Happiness, and Deep Purpose in the Second Half of Life, by Arthur Brooks  Crucible Expeditions   Steve House Bio For 21 years, Steve was a professional climber. His most famous ascent was with Vince Anderson. They did the central pillar of the Rupal Face and won the Piolet d'Or (Golden Ice Axe). Steve has done first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Rockies, and the Alps, and is a famed climber. Renowned mountaineer Reinhold Messner called him the best high-altitude climber in the world. He's been an ambassador athlete for Patagonia, Grivola, Sportiva, Zeal Optics, and Coros Watches. Steve retired from professional climbing at the end of 2020 to dedicate himself to his family and Uphill Athlete. He currently lives in Austria with his Wife Eva and two sons. Steve has been a professional mountain guide since 1992. In 1999, he became only the ninth American to achieve IFMGA certification, which is the highest level to guide all over the world. There are less than 200 certified in the U.S. to this day. He has guided trips across the world.  

On today's show, we're joined by Iain Stewart-Patterson. He is a Professor Emeritus and was one of the founding members of the Adventure Studies Department at Thompson Rivers University in Kamloops BC. From his start as an Outward Bound instructor through his certification as an ACMG/IFMGA guide, Iain has led expeditions around the world and has facilitated many dream ski vacations whether accessing the terrain by heli or on foot. Iain has been guiding and instructing snow, rock, and ice adventures for over 42 years. Blending theory and practice, he earned a PhD, in which he investigated the decision processes used by expert heli and snowcat guides in avalanche terrain. Iain will share insights from his path to becoming an IFMGA guide, his entry into motorized travel in the mountains, the development of a motorized guide curriculum, and relevant research around the role intuition plays within expert decision making. With such a wealth of knowledge and experience, Iain is the perfect guest to discuss the complexities of decision-making in the mountains. Episode Breakdown: - Intro - Caleb: Introduction of Iain Stewart-Patterson (2:40) - Iain: Introduction to his beginnings (3:44) - Iain: Talking about building an Apprentice Guide Resume (8:24) - Iain: Explains the Adventure Studies Program at Thompson River - - ---- University (9:56) - Iain: Goes into his journey toward the motorized community (16:22) - Iain: Digging into avalanche motorized education (20:46) - Iain: Discusses the differences between ski and motorized travel (27:06) - Iain: Clarifies the process of creating an education curriculum (39:34) - Iain: Helps us understand snowpack penetration results with motorized travel (49:16) - Iain: Educates us about the expert halo and how to consider risk (58:20) - Iain: Incidence of over exposure (1:14:00) Outro (1:20:00) Socials: The Avalanche Hour Podcast: https://www.instagram.com/theavalanchehourpodcast/ Iain Stewart-Patterson - https://www.instagram.com/iainstewartpatterson/ Links: Thompson River University - https://www.tru.ca/adventure-studies.html Bruce Jamieson and Iain - https://vimeo.com/551688410 Stress Measurement Study - https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0165232X14002079 Sponsors for this episode: Wyssen : https://www.wyssenavalanche.com/en/ Crew: Host - Caleb Merrill Producer - Cameron Griffin - https://www.instagram.com/backcountrycam/ Donate: The Avalanche Hour Podacast - https://www.theavalanchehour.com/donate The American Avalanche Association - https://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/donate

As we are sure most of you know accidents happen to the best of us and when you spend enough time in places with severe hazards it's not a question of if, but when. Nevertheless, it is easy to get complacent, and comfortable and that's when things go wrong.  Today, we sit down with IFMGA certified mountain guide Dale Remsberg. We connected with Dale after hearing about an accident he had while leading ice that almost took his life.With some luck and a badass mentality he was back top-roping ice only 10 days later, which is pretty ridiculous our my opinion. Dale doesn't ruminate on his mistakes; he learns from them and shares them with the community so others can learn too. He spends 100 days a year guiding and also enjoys training new mountain guides. In our conversation, we get to hear Dale's story about his childhood, how he found climbing, and what events led up to his accident.  Dale also shares with us the importance of mentorship and what he's doing in the community to provide this critical piece of climbing to others. Finally, we talk about the myth of safety in climbing, because as controversial as it might sound….climbing simply isn't safe. Maybe that's why we like it so much?

In Episode 7.10, Sean Zimmerman - Wall interviews Anna Keeling. Anna goes deep in this episode about her experiences as a mountain guide, shifting industry culture, living your values, and connecting with the wild environs we hold so dear. Anna is an IFMGA guide from Christchurch, New Zealand. Home is now Kura Tawhiti/Castle Hill Village (NZ) and Salt Lake City, Utah. Mother of one and owner/operator of Anna Keeling Guiding (AKG), Anna has spent her life zipping around outdoors - winning the world's first expedition adventure race and many multisport endurance events. Anna now trains and examines mountain and ski guides for both the New Zealand Mountain Guide Association (NZMGA) and the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA). With a focus on affordable recreational avalanche education, she's taught avalanche courses for AKG, the New Zealand Mountain Safety council, Utah Avalanche Centre, the American Avalanche Institute and Utah Mountain Adventures. Now she joins AIARE to teach pro courses. A writer, Anna was the Ski Columnist for the Christchurch Press from 2011-2014 and managed the writing and development of the NZMGA guide manual as well as publishing six articles for The NZ Climber. She now blogs for CHILL and freelances for other outdoor publications in addition to consulting for various guide and work safe operations. Website: https://www.annakeelingguiding.co.nz/ Blog: https://annalouisek.wordpress.com/ A3 Donation: https://www.coloradogives.org/organization/AmericanAvalancheAssociation Music: Culturez by Shoalin Dub/www.ketsa.uk Production help from Cameron Griffin

If you spend time in the mountains, then it's crucial to always be learning — there are new skills to acquire, and old skills to brush up on. So we're talking about mountain safety, backcountry education, and pedagogy — what are the most effective ways to convey and instill information? — with IFMGA guide, Mark Smiley, the creator of Mountain Sense, an online collection of video courses designed to make you a more informed and more skilled backcountry traveler. Consider this a must-listen to help you think about your own level of preparation.TOPICS & TIMES:From Indiana to IFMGA guide (7:19)When did you start skiing? (11:01)What is Mountain Sense? (17:59)Is Mountain Sense a supplement or alternative to other courses? (20:24)Who is Mountain Sense for? (23:23)How has Mountain sense been received? (36:26)Favorite safety equipment & gear? (47:08)Final Thoughts (59:13)RELATED LINKS: Become a Blister Member / Get our Buyer's GuideAll Winter: Blister Members: 40% Off Mountain Sense CoursesTil 10.31.22: 30% Off A Comprehensive Guide to Avalanche SafetyTil 10.31.22: 30% Off Beyond Level OneTil 10.31.22: 30% Off The Ultimate Guide to Backcountry Skiing & Ski MountaineeringSubscribe to our Gear Giveaways & NewsletterSEE OUR OTHER PODCASTS:CRAFTED Bikes & Big IdeasOff The CouchGEAR:30 Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 23 - Ilia Berulava is a man on a mission, not only has he set up the Georgia Guide Office from scratch, he was also instrumental in gaining IFMGA recognition for the mountain guide training in Georgia. We chat life, culture, the mountains of his homeland, and what's on offer in this special part of the world. After training as a guide in Chamonix Ilia returned home to set up his own little Chamonix in the village of Mestia, high in the Svaneti region of the caucasus mountains, close to the Russian border. It's been a great success, increasing local on mountain employment, filling hotel rooms and showcasing the regions abundant pow to the world. “All safety comes from fear... nothing is 100% safe and once you're in the mountains, aside from your knowledge, you have this gut feeling.”

SummaryIn our 2 hour long conversation, we sit down with AMGA-certified guide Lindsey Hamm or so aptly named “The Hamminator”. Hamm is an AMGA-certified single-pitch instructor and a certified rock guide. She has also completed her AMGA Ice Instructor Course….Advanced Alpine Guide courses and currently… is on track to becoming the 18th female ever to receive an IFMGA pin. She has guided and climbed all around the Western US and has spent time in India and China, and at the time of this episode, launching is in the middle of a climbing trip in Pakistan. Her quick and intuitive decision-making combined with genuine laughter, and ability to be unapologetically herself is a contagious force that undoubtedly has helped establish herself as a well-respected professional in the climbing community and an inspiration to anyone who wishes to follow in her footsteps.We talk about how she found climbing, her stories of three separate ground falls that left her…uninjured, we chat about the art of soloing, and belaying, and…since she is officially the first female on the podcast, we dive into her female perspective of the climbing community, the details of her life as a female guide, and how misogyny can plague the sport, and finally, we hear about what she is currently up to in the steep rocky terrain of Pakistan. Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out.  Contact us: IG: @the.climbing.majority Email: theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.comResources:Learn more about Lindsey Hamm here:Field Journal | Written by Maggie Shafer // Photography by Luke Hallhttps://www.commonclimber.com/profile-lindsey-hamm.htmlCommon Climber Profile | Written by  Enock Glidden| https://www.sidetracked.com/fieldjournal/lindsey-hamm-hyping-up-the-climbing-world/Lindsey Hamm's IG: @hamminator2017Female Empowering Climbing Groups:Iris | https://irisalpine.com/ She Moves Mountains | https://shemovesmountains.org/Flash Foxy | https://www.flashfoxy.com/She Jumps | https://www.shejumps.org/Texas Lady Crushers | https://www.texasladycrushers.com/Steph Davis | https://stephdavis.co/

Simon Temple: The Great Outdoors - a playground to steward and respect Sailor, surfer, free diver, spear-fisherman lover of the Great Outdoors, avalanche survivor among many other adventures, Simon Temple embodies adventure in the wild at its best. With more than 17 years under his belt as a freelance cameraman/ cinematographer, Simon started his career in Outdoor Recreation, later training under IFMGA to become a heli-ski guide working in Canada, Alaska, New Zealand and Austria. While working out of Queenstown New Zealand, he found work on Vertical limits, and Lord of the Rings, launching his career in the film industry.  SELECTED LINKS FROM THE EPISODEFeature films• Monkey Man (Bron). Cameraman 2020/21, Indonesia • Avatar 2 & 3 ( in production). Cameraman 2nd unit 2019, NZ• Adrift (STX Entertainment) BTS/Cameraman 2017 Fiji/NZ• Point break 2, (Alcon/Warner brothers), Cameraman 2nd unit 2014. Tahiti, Australia, USA.• Mee-Shee: The Water Giant (MBP Germany), 2003. NZ (transport/location)• Lord of the Rings: The Return of the King (New Line Cinema), 2002. NZ (location assistant)• Lord of the Rings: The Two Towers (New Line Cinema), 2001. NZ (location assistant, main unit)• Vertical Limits, 1999. NZ (location assistant) Reality TV• RedBull ‘The Ultimate Waterman'. 2017. New Zealand. (RedBull TV US). Cinematographer/ Cameraman• RedBull ‘The Ultimate Waterman'. 2016. New Zealand. (RedBull TV US). Cameraman• Get Out Alive ‘Bear Grylls' 2013 New Zealand, (Electus/NBC). Cinematographer/Cameraman• Survivor Show 2008, Season 16 & 17 USA, (CBS). 2007, Season 14 & 15 (CBS). Cameraman• Eco Challenge 2001 (Borneo), 2002 (New Zealand), 2003 (Fiji) (USA Network). CameramanBroadcast (as an OB cameraman)• Le Grand Raid, Reunion Islands, 2010• RedBull Rampage 2007, 2008, 2009. RedBull media house, Utah, USA• Red Bull X Games, RBMH, ESPN, USA 2009• Womans FIVB Beach Volleyball championships, Universal Sports, USA, 2007• FIS Ski Jumping world Champs, 2008 (ORF Austria)• World Match Racing Series, Sail TV, 2007/08. UK• Wilderness ARC, Adventure Racing world champs, Scotland 2007.• Americas Cup 2007, 2010 (AC committee, sail TV)• Red Bull Hike and Ride 2007 (ORF Austria)• Nova Rock, Frequency 2007 (MTV Germany)• Raid the North Extreme, Adventure Racing world champs, NL Canada 2004.• Eco Challenge 2001 (Borneo), 2002 (New Zealand), 2003 (Fiji) (USA Network) Assistant camera     

De fleste av oss kan velge både hvem vi reiser på tur med og når vi skal dra. For en guide. eller tindeveileder, er det gjerne ikke slik. De lever av å ta med seg folk inn i risikofylte områder og må kunne gjøre gode vurderinger for å sørge for sikkerheten til alle. I Norge er det Nortind som utdanner og sertifiserer internasjonalt godkjente fjellførere (IFMGA). Hvilken trening har de og hva kan de?Vi har snakket med Jørgen Aamot. Jørgen er fagsjef i Nordtind og med en lang fartstid med ski på beina i bratt - tidvis styggbratt - lende. Dette er den første av tre deler i podkasten om tindeveilederutdanningen i Nortind.Medvirkende: Jørgen AamotProgramleder: Audun Hetland

Tenker vi likt når vi ferdes i skredterrneng med tau i sekken eller ski på beina? Og hva er noe av det viktige vi må gjøre for å passe på at vi etablerer gode rutiner. I denne podkasten hører du andre del av samtalen med Robert Caspersen. Robert Caspersen er kanskje mest kjent for klatreekspedisjoner til både Antarktis, Himalaya og mange andre steder. I tillegg er han også IFMGA guide og guider både i skredterreng og klatring. Vi snakker både om hvordan man blir påvirket av de man er på tur med enten som guide, vennegjeng og ekspedisjonsteam - og hva vi bør tenke på for å holde tunga rett i munnen når vi utsetter oss for risiko i fjellet. Medvirkende: Robert CaspersenProgramleder: Audun Hetland

Paul's career in outdoor leadership began in 1995 when he began working with adjudicated youth in the desert of southern  Utah.  He started working with Outward Bound in 1998 and moved up to work with the National Outdoor Leadership School (NOLS) in 2000.  With  NOLS, he ultimately worked 265 field weeks as a mountaineering, rock climbing and sailing Course Leader in India, Mexico, Patagonia, and the  Pacific Northwest - with expeditions to the Northern Icefield of  Patagonia and the Waddington Range in British Columbia, among other locations.  Paul also served NOLS as mountaineering Program Supervisor in the Pacific Northwest and Patagonia and was an editor for the 3rd Edition of the textbook "NOLS Wilderness Mountaineering.”   In  2007 he started working as a professional mountain guide and leading high altitude climbs in South America, Alaska, and Tanzania, hut-to-hut ski tours, Matterhorn climbs in the Alps and climbs in the Sierra Nevada (including El Capitan and Mt. Whitney). Originally from Maine, Paul is based in Wawona, California, a small village in Yosemite National Park.   Paul became a certified guide by the prestigious IFMGA in 2017 and is currently an examiner. In addition, he serves as an elected member of the Board of Directors of the American Mountain Guide's Association.   After college, he was a Fulbright Scholar in (Germany from 1996 - to 1997) and speaks German and Spanish.

Created by Mari Feher, Hosted by Ania WiktorowiczDale Remsberg is an IFMGA and AMGA mountain guide based in Lafayette, CO. He currently serves as a technical director of the American Mountain Guides Association, which includes instructing and examining young guides. Dale prides himself in high-end skills in all the disciplines and can still be found out cruising on difficult terrains of the Canadian Rockies or Switzerland. Despite his 30 year experience, accidents still happen. Take a listen to what went wrong and how he ended up with two separate helicopter rescues under his belt. You can follow Dale on Instagram at Daleremsberg or at daleremsberg.comSend your trivia responses to rescueradiobypmr@gmail.com for a chance to win PMR swag.

Robert Caspersen er både IFMGA guide og en av norges mest allsidige klatrere. For de fleste er han kanskje mest kjent for sine mange ekspedisjoner og høye fjell som i Ulvetanna i Antarktis eller Trango pulpit i Himmalaya.I denne podkasten så diskuterer vi risiko og skred i alpin klatring.Medvirkende: Robert CaspersenProgramleder: Audun Hetland

Episode 089 of The Adventure Podcast features world-renowned British mountaineer, Victor Saunders. The 71-year old IFMGA guide has completed each of the Seven Summits, summited Everest six times and ticked off many first ascents including the North Pillar of Spantik.In this episode, Matt and Victor discuss climbing partners, the rules of mountaineering, and quitting your stable job as an architect at 46 to become a mountain guide. It's a philosophical one and opens up the floor for some interesting discussions around the current state of mountaineering. Support this show http://supporter.acast.com/the-adventure-podcast. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Gost šestega dela prve sezone je Rok Zalokar, IFMGA mednarodni gorski vodnik, turni smučar in še veliko več. 

John Falkiner is originally from Australia where grew up on a large sheep farm. His father, who learned to ski in Europe before World War 2, introduced him to skiing at 5 years old at Mount Buller in Victoria, Australia. As a young man he bought a one-way ticket to Europe in 1973 and started working in Verbier, Switzerland. In 1975 he ended up getting a gig helping haul film gear around for famed ski move maker Dick Barrymore which introduced to the Hot Doggin' scene. He's competed at a high level of Alpine skiing. On top of that he's appeared in over 80 film productions as a professional skier including several James Bond films. He's also a IFMGA certified Mountain Guide. And in 1978 he was introduced to Telemark skiing by way of the legendary Karhu team who was visiting the area.

Episode 6.4 features IFMGA guide Martin Volken. Martin shares his story of becoming a guide service and gear shop owner. Martin talks about what goes into co-authoring several books. He explains a matrix to weigh the likelihood versus consequences of a given hazard that he utilizes when guiding in the mountains. Enjoy the show. Music by @agediamante

Scott Johnston is joined by Adrian Ballinger and the two discuss the training and preparation process for attempting big mountains, and having realistic expectations while on expedition.. Adrian is an IFMGA certified mountain guide and the owner of Alpenglow Expeditions. Adrian has lead over one-hundred fifty international climbing expeditions on six continents, and made seventeen successful summits of 8000 meter peaks.  

Michal Gerčák je milovník hôr, bývalý člen Horskej Záchrannej Služby vo Vysokých Tatrách a aktuálne horský vodca IFMGA na plný úväzok. Rozprávali sme sa o jeho vzťahu k horám, ako sa dostal do HZS a taktiež o vysnívanej práci horského vodcu. Okrem toho sa dozviete ako sa stať horským vodcom a čo všetko obnáša takýto kurz. Michala a jeho projekty môžete sledovať na Instagrame: https://www.instagram.com/horskyvodca_michalgercak/ https://www.instagram.com/horsky_vodca_com/ Facebooku: https://www.facebook.com/horskyvodca Webe: https://horsky-vodca.com Mňa a LAJF Podcast môžete sledovať na Instagrame: https://www.instagram.com/bob_antoska/ Pridajte sa aj do skupiny LAJF Podcast FAMILY na Facebooku: https://www.facebook.com/groups/545076770084293

Steep skier, climber and IFMGA Mountain Guide Tom Grant shares his first-hand experience of skiing first descents all over the world. From technical lines in Baffin Island, BC to one of the world's largest previously un-skied lines in New Zealand, Tom loves to push his boundaries and take on extreme descents. Hear about Tom's back-up plans for when things go wrong in the mountains and learn how to reach your optimum performance through flow state.As an IFGMA mountain guide, Tom holds the highest level of certification worldwide and is part the only association permitted to work in the European Alps. Based out of Chamonix Tom specialises in alpine climbing, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, freeride, steep skiing and offers custom guiding for all abilities and aspirations.Follow Tom's updates: tomgrant.guide / @tom_grant_ Hosted by: @beckylucykingThinking Off-Piste is brought to you by Mabey Ski, a Whistler-based adventure ski company creating bucket list ski trips across the globe. If you're looking to get off the beaten track and away from the crowds, head over to mabeyski.com to discover what lies beyond your lift pass.

On today's episode, we have Matt Helliker, and he certainly has a few stories to tell, Matt Helliker's life has been shaped by mountains and coastlines, from the sea cliffs of Great Britain to Scotland's winter mountains, the European Alps to the Greater Ranges of the Himalayas, South America and Alaska. Matt has become one of the UK's most talented and accomplished alpinists, climber and IFMGA mountain guides of his generation, with a long list of challenging and impressive first and repeat ascents to his credit. Today on the podcast, we talk about why he pushes himself to these limits and the sacrifices he has made along the way.Matt's WebsiteMatt's InstagramEnjoyed the Show? Tag me @johnhorsfall on InstagramJoin the Adventure - https://mailchi.mp/44c55725379d/newsletter-page-ziba-adventuresSupport this podcast at — https://redcircle.com/the-modern-adventurer/donationsAdvertising Inquiries: https://redcircle.com/brands

Angela Hawse - President of the American Mountain Guide Association | Brought to you by Ikon Pass Episode #19 of The SnowBrains Podcast “I was one of the rescuers first on the scene to a guy who had fallen over 1000 feet. Off of Fitzroy. And he survived to tell the tale which is remarkable. But it took us three days with an international rescue effort, and it took us three days to get this kid down from where he landed. He was unconscious the entire time. It was certainly a harrowing experience where there was considerable risk to the rescuers." - Angela Hawse on The SnowBrains Podcast My guest today is Angela Hawse - the president of the American Mountain Guide Association or AMGA. Angela has over 30-years of mountain guiding experience and is a fully certified IFMGA mountain guide. Angela is the 6th of only 11 women to have ever been fully certified in the USA. In 2011, Angela was awarded the "AMGA Guide of the Year". Angela is a senior instructor team member for the AMGA and was the first woman to join their elite group of instructors in 2006. She's been on the AMGA board of directors for over 10 years. She's been the lead guide for Ice Axe Expeditions Antarctica ski trip for the past four years. Angela also guides heli-skiing for Telluride Helitrax and she guides all over the world. As a minority in a male-dominated profession, Angela does her best to mentor and encourage other women getting into the outdoors and guiding. She was a former co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing and has been a key player in their work teaching women self-reliance in technical mountain sports since 2000. Angela is engaged in inclusion and diversity work with the AMGA and several of her sponsors that are making positive change in the outdoor industry. In this episode, Angela & Miles discuss what it's like to be the president of the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA), being selected as the AMGA Guide of the Year, inclution in the mountains, guiding all over the world, heli ski guiding for Telluride Helitrax, getting fully IFMGA guide certified, climbing Mt. Everest, Avalanches, climate change, and more. Angela Hawse answers these potent questions: There are only 138 fully certified guides in the USA and only 13 of those are women. Why does the USA have so few fully certified guides as opposed to Europe and other parts of the world? What has it been like being president of the AMGA and what has it been like being president during a major crisis like COVID? What can we all do to help be more inclusive in the mountains? Have you ever been in an avalanche? What happened? What evidence of climate change have you seen in your life? What's your biggest accomplishment in life? What challenges you most intellectually on a daily basis? What's your favorite book or books? More... Please enjoy! *** This episode is brought to you by Ikon Pass: A brand-new season unlocked, the promise of adventures ahead, and endless stoke on the horizon. Now on sale, own it all with Ikon Pass. With pass options starting at only $399, adult – and exclusive spring savings – there's an adventure for every type of rider, both new to the mountain and longtime shredder. Lock in the 21/22 season with:• up to $200 savings on child passes • up to $100 in renewal discounts • and a new payment plan from as low as 0 dollars down and 0 percent APR From the second you score your pass, you've got an entire season of sweet stuff to look forward to. Explore pass options at IkonPass.com. *** If you enjoyed this podcast, please share with friends & family, and please subscribe. Follow SnowBrains: SnowBrains.com Facebook: facebook.com/snowbrains Instagram: instagram.com/snowbrains Twitter: twitter.com/snowbrains The SnowBrains Podcast Episode #19 - Angela Hawse - President of the American Mountain Guide Association | Brought to you by Ikon Pass Recorded on February 18, 2020, in Park City, UT (Miles Clark) and Ridgeway, CO (Angela Hawse). This episode was edited by Robert Wilkinson. Music by Chad Crouch Host, producer, and creator = Miles Clark.

Today Diego and I had the pleasure and honor of speaking with Glen Young, a longtime friend who I haven't spent nearly enough time in person with. He has lived and continues to live his passion for climbing and mountaineering. He shares some of the genesis of how he became to be a Martial Arts Muay Thai instructor in Thailand, ice climbing in Alaska, Washington St., Nepal, amongst many others. -------------------- There is always more to learn and I hope you gain as much as I did from his endless and compassion for the world and our society as a whole. He lives in line with his values and pursues expanding his knowledge always. If you are ever planning to go on a short or long expedition, find this wonderful person and go for it. -------------------- Here is his Bio from Miyar Adventures. Local Guide & Climbing Programs Director Glen has been working as an alpine guide for sixteen years, having led trips in North America, South America, Africa, Asia, and the South Pacific. Glen's climbing and guiding career has included seventeen climbs above 20,000 ft., including technical climbs of peaks such as AmaDablam and Kyajo Ri in Nepal and big glacier routes in Alaska. He's climbed routes on El Cap, Half Dome, and Big Walls in Zion in addition to hundreds of multi-pitch rock routes around the globe. Here in the Pacific Northwest he enjoys guiding complex alpine objectives such as the North Ridge of Forbidden Peak and the North Face of Mt. Shuksan. Previously, Glen guided white-water expeditions and taught martial arts. When not in the office or the field with Miyar he runs a nonprofit in Nepal that provides training to Nepalese mountain guides and funds infrastructure in remote areas of the Himalayas (www.karmaproject-nepal.org). Glen is an AMGA Assistant Rock Guide and Apprentice Alpine Guide who is working toward IFMGA certification, which is the highest level of certification available to professional mountain guides. -------------------- https://www.miyaradventures.com/our-guides-2/ --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/berendzenbond/message Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/berendzenbond/support

Adrian Ballinger - Climbing Mt. Everest & K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen | Brought to you by Alta Ski Area "I was heli-ski guiding in Alaska, and through a series of communications breakdowns between me my co-guide and my pilot, we ended up getting out of a helicopter my 6 clients me and a co-guide, and it turned out we were on top of a cornice. The cornice broke 18 feet back as the helicopter lifted off. Me and 2 clients were on the wrong side of that break and took an 1800- foot fall. The first 200 feet over cliffs, and then through a huge avalanche runout zone, two people buried, a bunch of broken bones between all of us, and really bad injuries. Took a long time to get comfortable around cornices again." - Adrian Ballinger "Made it really close. I was probably 400 vertical feet from the summit, at well over 28,500 feet. I got to the point where I couldn't feel my hands to behind my wrists, So I could no longer clip devices onto the fixed rope. So then I had to solo because I couldn't use the rope. I was still going up, and Im soloing, and I cant feel my hands, started to think about the consequences of frostbite when I have a girlfriend who is a professional rock climber. It still took a long time, but I did ultimately decide to turn around… Im sure thats what saved my toes and fingers." - Adrian Ballinger Adrian Ballinger's list of accomplishments is over-the-top. It's too much. Here are some of his career highlights. First person to ski Manaslu from the summit (6th tallest peak in world) Only American with 3 complete 8000m ski descents 4th American to summit Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen (first in 25 years) 8 summits of Mt Everest, 13 seasons on the mountain, over 100 clients on top 17 total 8000-meter peak summits 6 total 8000-meter peak ski attempts Summited Mt. Everest twice within 3- weeks on 2 separate occasions Guided/led more than 150 international expeditions Founder of Alpenglow Expeditions, in 2004 Guided on Kilimanjaro (14 times by 4 different routes), Denali (by the West Rib), Alpamayo (14 times by 3 different routes), Cotopaxi (more than 30 times), and many other expeditions on many other high peaks all over the world. Ballinger has also led successful expeditions to more than 25 Himalayan summits over 6000 meters, including twelve ascents of Ama Dablam, which is a highly technical 6800m peak next to Everest. In this episode, Adrian & Miles discuss extreme skiing at extreme altitude, the best stories from Adrian's insane high mountain guiding and climbing career, summiting Everest without Oxygen, summiting K2 without Oxygen, avalanches, getting the IFMGA full certification in only 3 years, Alpenglow Expeditions, and much more. Adrian Ballinger answers these mountain-y questions: You were the very first person to ski 26,781' Manaslu from the summit - this is the 6th tallest peak in the world. What was that experience like and why had no one ever skied before you? In 2016 you decided it was time to try Everest without supplemental oxygen. You failed and you said you almost got yourself killed only hours from the summit. What happened there? How are you able to climb above 26K feet without supplemental oxygen? Is there something genetic or biologic about you that helps at altitude? You've spent so much time on Everest - I'd love to hear your perspective on the overcrowding of Everest and the effects that it's having. Please tell us a bit about the Sherpa people. What are they like and please explain exactly what they do. It sounds like without the Sherpa, climbing Everest would nearly be impossible. Why did you decide to climb K2 without supplemental oxygen? What are the Pakistani people like? What's the craziest or funniest thing you've seen on Everest? What's the scariest accident you've had in the mountains? Where's your favorite place to ski? Favorite place to climb? Favorite mountain ranges? What evidence of climate change have you seen in your lifetime? What challenges you most intellectually on a daily basis? What's your favorite book? More Please enjoy! *** This episode is brought to you by Alta Ski Area - home of the deepest average annual snowfall in the Rocky Mountains. *** If you enjoyed this podcast, please share with friends & family, and please subscribe. Follow SnowBrains: SnowBrains.com Facebook: facebook.com/snowbrains Instagram: instagram.com/snowbrains Twitter: twitter.com/snowbrains The SnowBrains Podcast Episode #13 - Adrian Ballinger - Climbing Mt. Everest & K2 Without Supplemental Oxygen Recorded on January 3, 2020, in Jackson Hole, WY (Miles Clark) and Moab, UT (Adrian Ballinger). This episode was edited by Robert Wilkinson. Music by Chad Crouch. Host, producer, and creator = Miles Clark.

On this episode: associations, similar breeds of dork, and exploratory technical alpinism. We’re talking with Chris Wright, IFMGA certified mountain guide, amateur cocktail wiz, and all-around great alpinist.Show Notes00:35 – Introducing Chris Wright06:05 – “Accidentally” moving to Oregon10:49 – Experiences climbing abroad14:20 – Chris’ favorite kind of climbing15:55 – First ascent of Link Sar23:49 – Getting to the base of the mountain32:55 – Climbing with partners 30 years older41:14 – Personal climbing vs guiding climbs44:12 – Ski touring in Norway51:18 – What’s next?53:00 – Favorite climbs and trips60:00 – Top 3 favorite activities to do in Bend during the winterMentioned in this ShowIMFMGA is the International Federation of Mountain Guides AssociationsSmith Rock State ParkFirst Ascent of Link SarThe Piolet d’OrYou can find Chris Wright at nowclimbing.com and on Instagram @now_climbingConnect with us!Like Almost There on Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/almostthereadventurepodcast/Follow Almost There on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/almostthere_ap/ Send us a voice message! https://www.speakpipe.com/AlmostThereOur Co-hostsJason Fitzpatrick – IG: @themuirprojectSaveria Tilden – IG: @adventuruswomen  web: AdventurUsWomen.comJeff Hester – IG: @thesocalhiker  web: SoCalHiker.netTheme song by Opus Orange. Courtesy of Emoto Music. The Almost There Adventure Podcast is a celebration of outdoor activities both local and epic. Discussing the big topics and talking to adventurers, artists, legends and activists within the outdoor community.

Episode 37 Dark Starts backcountry splitboarding podcast presents Wyoming mountain guide Izzy Lazarus. She grew up outside in the NE States, helping her lay a solid foundation to become a climber, rider and instructor. Started her AMGA education in 2015 working towards her full IFMGA certification, and picked up a few sponsors along the way. Currently works as a guide out of Jackson WY, teaching Split 101 and women’s specific courses and shredding endless powder lines in the Tetons. Izzy got her first taste of powder when a friend brought her to Cement Creek in Silverton CO. She quickly decided to make the switch from ice climbing to splitboarding, for both safety and pure pleasure. As a guide and instructor, she loves imparting knowledge on those who come to her, and we learned a thing or two. Just think of all the things we will know in 5 more years, thanks to amazing guests like her. All it took was a listen. Show links: Instagram Sponsored by: Weston Phantom Snow Industries Other: Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Alpine Ascents Backcountry Babes Special thanks to: Tahoe Lab Boards Use promo code DS15 to get 15% off all boards Groundswell Marketing Valerie Black The Artist Behind The Logo Follow us on Instagram: @ Darkstarts.podcast @ Darkstarts.media

I have always thought Margaret Wheeler could introduce herself as “I'm Margaret Wheeler and you may remember me from such eduational videos as “ Track Setting- Improving the skin track” or “Sled Rescue Drill” Think Troy McClure from the Simpsons…https://youtu.be/Y6jSKetRBU0. Or perhaps you recognize her name as one of the authors of Backcountry Skiing: Skills for Ski Touring and Ski Mountaineering. In this episode, IFMGA certified mountain guide, educator, and mother of 2, Margaret Wheeler sits down for a great chat- There is some solid insight in this one. Music: Parrallel Worlds by Ketsa and Ascend Dub by Shoalin Dub. WNDR Alpine skis 10% off: FOWFFR10-4SZB7P Do note that if you order bindings with their skis, there's an automatic 10% ski & binding bundle discount that gets applied and overrides this friends and family one. So, if you are needing to order bindings with your skis, you will have to do so in a separate order unfortunately, otherwise you will only receive 10% off the skis. Good thing is shipping is free, so no additional cost there. HAGAN SKI MOUNTAINEERING 15% off with code: AvalancheHour15 https://alnk.to/6bNgvJb SOCIAL CBD 20% OFF LINK: https://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=ml&ti=908357&pw=282549

In this episode, we bring you a special podcast with KENTON COOL, Mountaineer & Adventurer as he shares with us about his incredible journey through Mount Everest. Kenton Cool is one of the world's leading high-altitude climbers, an avid adventurer and also a highly engaging and inspiring motivational speaker. He has successfully climbed Mount Everest 14 times along with many other mountain peaks around the globe. He is the only Briton to ski down two 8,000m peaks and is an IFMGA guide. His goal is to inspire the next generation. We hope you enjoy this inspirational podcast.

Join us on Women Lead Radio as Knight Campbell, your host of The Leading Edge: Women Pushing Boundaries in Life, Adventure and Leadership, has a conversation with Angela Hawse, IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide and President of the American Mountain Guide Association Board, on her experiences, and leadership insights, breaking into, and now leading, one of the most male dominated fields in the world!  Angela is the 6th woman to earn her credential as an IFMGA Guide, meaning she is fully certified to guide rock climbing, skiing and mountaineering anywhere in the world! She has led dozens of high altitude expeditions, and actively gives back to her community through women's climbing organizations and environmental stewardship (literally leading initiatives to remove tons of trash from popular mountains).   Interested in Learning More About Connected Women of Influence? Click Here to Be Invited as Our Special VIP & Guest to a Future Event! Interested in Becoming a Member of Our Professional Community!? Click Here to Apply for Membership!

Kenton Cool is joined this week by IFMGA mountain guide and alpinist Jon Bracey

For the first episode of the #onthego Transylvania Mountain Festival Podcast we invited longtime friend Cosmin Andron as a guest. Cosmin is an educator, philosopher, PADI divemaster and IFMGA mountain guide and also the initiator of Eastern European Mountain Guides Association. EEMGA was set up in February 2016 as a programme meant to establish a consistent training for professional Mountain Guides in East European countries, without IFMGA member associations. EEMGA has since successfully trained the first generation of Eastern European mountain guides who received their certifications in 2018 and is currently training the second generation. In this episode we talk about climbing as a lifelong passion, philosophy and academia, as well as about professional reconversion and creating one's own path. Thank you for listening to our mountain stories!

Dawa Yangzum Sherpa is a professional mountaineer from Nepal, and she is the first Nepali woman to be certified as an IFMGA mountain guide. We talked about her upbringing in a mountain village in Nepal, climbing Everest, and the path she took becoming an internationally recognized guide. Check out Dawa Yangzum: https://www.instagram.com/dawayangzum/ https://www.outsideonline.com/2293881/smashing-guidings-glass-ceiling Support TVTV on Patreon: www.patreon.com/thevoyagesofitmvetter

Interview with IFMGA Guide Ryan Hütter

On February 20, 2018, IFMGA-certified mountain guide Paul Rachele was trying to set up a winter climbing route on a sharp crag off Teton Pass called The Reef. As he was setting the final anchor, he ran out of rope and fell 100 feet, sustaining numerous severe injuries. His call for help set in motion a rapid response as rescuers raced against the clock to get him to safety before nightfall. Conversation includes TCSAR members Phillip Fox and Alex St. Clair. Photo: Paul Rachele

Angela Hawse is the president of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), and is certified to the highest international mountain guide standards. We talk to her about how she got into guiding; the various roles she has taken on; the experiences that drove Angela’s career; what advice she would offer to aspiring guides; how guiding culture is changing, and more.TOPICS & TIMES:How Jonathan and Angela first met (2:52)Angela’s wide-ranging professional titles (6:48)What led you to guiding? (11:40)What advice would you give to aspiring guides? (21:18)Differences between the AMGA and the IFMGA? (25:35)Your favorite guiding experience? (30:52)Most harrowing guiding experience? (34:32)Being a female in this industry (35:49)Angela’s motivations for joining POW Climb (45:10) See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Steve Banks is an IFMGA mountain guide based right here in Crested Butte, CO.  Steve's IFMGA certification means he can (and does!) guide across the globe, and he guides all the different disciplines including ski mountaineering, rock climbing, ice climbing, and more.  Learn more about Steve's childhood growing up in an active outdoors family (indeed, his brother is also a guide) that led him to becoming a guide.  Wondering about skiing in Iceland? Japan? Chamonix? What it takes to become a guide? - then listen up, this is one episode you won't want to miss.   You can find Steve here: stevebanksmountainguide.com

In our twelve episode of season 2, we talk to Michael Silitch of the BRASS Foundation. BRASS is the Bryce and Ronnie Athlete Snow Safety Foundation, and is responsible for bringing high quality avalanche education to ski racing programs around the country. Michael is also an IFMGA certified guide, and shares some insight from his guiding career. Enjoy!

In episode 2, we talk to IFMGA guide, avalanche educator, and writer Joe Stock about slowing down to make better decisions, learning from our mistakes, and managing uncertainty in avalanche terrain. Check out Joe's website at www.stockalpine.com to read his blogs, hire him as a guide, or buy his book, The Alaska Factor 2. We also hear an update from AIARE's executive director, Richard Bothwell regarding Pro courses for this winter.

In the part 2 of the fourth episode, we finish our conversation with Kirk about how you may fit into the new paradigm of avalanche education. We then talk to IFMGA and heli ski guide Jonathon Spitzer. Jonathon also works as an instructor for AIARE and the AMGA, and brings some perspective about how the upcoming Pro/Rec split may benefit the professional guiding community.

Brian Warren is a year-round professional mountain guide based out of Jackson, WY. He guides in various parts of the world including Jackson Hole, the Pacific Northwest, and the European Alps. He has also climbed and guided in Alaska, Canada, South America and the Himalaya. Brian presently holds IFMGA and AMGA Aspirant status and an Avalanche level III certification.

Brian Warren is a year-round professional mountain guide based out of Jackson, WY. He guides in various parts of the world including Jackson Hole, the Pacific Northwest, and the European Alps. He has also climbed and guided in Alaska, Canada, South America and the Himalaya. Brian presently holds IFMGA and AMGA Aspirant status and an Avalanche level III certification.