Podcasts about late blight

In this episode, Dr. Mannon Gallegly, centenarian and Professor Emeritus of Plant Pathology at West Virginia University, joins host Matt Kasson for an engaging conversation about Mannon's storied 80+ year career as a plant pathologist. Dr. Gallegly shares stories of working alongside Wood Food Prize recipient John S. Niederhauser and Nobel laureate Norman Borlaug in Mexico in the 1950s and 1960s. Show notes West Virginia University Faculty Profile here: https://www.davis.wvu.edu/faculty-staff/directory/mannon-gallegly News Release of Mannon's Majesty, a Late Blight and Septoria Leaf Blight resistant Tomato Variety: https://wvutoday.wvu.edu/stories/2024/01/24/wvu-professor-emeritus-and-creator-of-the-people-s-tomato-unveils-final-variety-makes-limited-seeds-available-for-growers Donate to the Mannon E. Gallegly Student Travel Fund: https://www.apsnet.org/members/give-awards/donate/giving/funds/Pages/Gallegly.aspx Phytopathology News article on Mannon's fund: https://www.apsnet.org/members/community/phytopathology-news/2024/march/Pages/Mannon-Gallegly.aspx APS link to the 1948 APS North Central Meeting at the University of Minnesota and the 1965 Potato Association of America Meeting in Mexico City: https://www.apsnet.org/members/give-awards/donate/giving/funds/Pages/Gallegly.aspx This episode is produced by Association Briefings (https://associationbriefings.com). Special Guest: Mannon Gallegly.

Growing tomatoes is one of the big hobbies of New Zealanders, especially males! It's great to have a go at these fruit – there are many many varieties too and everybody has their favourite ones. But there are some problems that can occur, whether you're raising them in an open garden bed, or in a tunnel house Tomato – (potato) thrips are a nuisance; they got here a few decades ago and will attack Solanaceous plants (potatoes, tomatoes, nightshades, poroporo, and such weeds) Tomato thrips adults and nymphs I used to get heaps of them when growing tomatoes in Auckland, but in CHC they seem to be prevalent only in autumn (takes longer to develop plague proportions); My best preventative action is to pull Solanum weeds out everywhere. It prevents them from settling on these hosts and survive during winter. When you have a hassle: spray the plants with oil (Conqueror Oil or Neem Oil) on a regular basis (every 10 days or so); aim for the newer leaves/growth on the tomato plants. Sprays with insecticides need to commence well before you see the first psyllids; it keeps their populations down too. I generally don't grow potatoes (only the early season varieties of potatoes (before Xmas) Blossom End Rot on Tomatoes has always been translated as a deficiency of calcium. Apparently that is a myth in itself; it has more to do with the inability of the plant to transport calcium through the plant. Gibberellins appear to be playing an important role in that job and most NZ soils are not deficient in calcium; so: try some fertilisers with gibberellic acid (Seafood Soup/Seaweed Tea!) Often the first tomatoes of the season show some Blossom End Rot. With settling temps and regular fertilisation/watering these symptoms often disappear. Early Blight and Late Blight on stems and leaves can move pretty quickly through the plants. Here comes the watering again!!! Only water the soil (NOT the leaves); remove the lower leaves as soon as practicable, so they don't drag on the moist soil and get infected. Underwatering also helps in this matter: keep the area drier; make sure the wind/air movement can dry the plants and stems quickly. If you have persistent hassles with blight: keep a regular fungicide treatment going Passionvine hoppers (Scolypopa australis) I call them fluffy bums – as their “nylon-filament tails” are prominent features (of course these tails are made from fine waxy material!) Photo / Supplied They suck sap from a wide variety of host plants, often climbers (Wisteria, Passionfruit vines) and Perennials (salvia, Hydrangeas, Camellia, you name it!!) Sap-sucking is their big impact on garden plants – sometimes they debilitate their host, pooping honeydew all over the place and that creates a deposit of sooty mould, like with some many sap-sucking insects in the garden Slowly they grow larger and larger shedding skins along their journey (moulting), until they reach adulthood in summer: Moth-like insects with delta-shaped wings, showing prominent vein-markings; they, too, suck plant sap These insects have the ability to jump quickly and far and the adult passionvine hoppers also flick and fly very smartly… avoiding the insecticides you may want to spray at them!! They are impossible to spray with insecticides. But the fluffy bums might still be reduced in numbers in spring, when they are still young: On a wind-still morning, grab an aerosol can with simple fly spray and create an insecticidal mist around those densely-packed groupings of young and impressionable fluffybums; they may try to “jump away from danger”, but won't be able to succeed. LISTEN ABOVESee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Gardening is a delightful journey filled with moments of joy and unexpected challenges. In the latest episode of the Veg Grower Podcast, we delve into the dynamic world of Richard's garden as he navigates the highs and lows of cultivating his own oasis of fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Join us as we explore the heart-warming progress of plants, the bittersweet farewell to a beloved chicken, and the unwelcome appearance of blight that has sent shockwaves through the garden. In the Home Garden The episode starts with a heart-touching story – the tale of Hawkins, a beloved chicken whose fate took a tragic turn due to a sparrowhawk encounter. A once-timid chicken, Hawkins had been a regular egg-layer and a cherished garden companion. Her passing due to the sparrowhawk's visit serves as a poignant reminder of the delicate balance between nature's wonders and its challenges. Amidst the anecdotes, Richard shares his endeavors in nurturing young Swiss chard and kale plants, a task made more challenging by the influx of slugs and snails encouraged by the wet weather. Nevertheless, his determination shines through as he carefully tends to the plants, determined to help them flourish. The kohl rabi finds its home in the soil, while hedgehogs, long-awaited guests, add a touch of wild charm to the garden. Richard also recounts his efforts in transforming an area in his garden previously occupied by logs into a space for winter water butts. A dilapidated chicken coop awaits a new home, free for the taking. But the true stars of the garden are the harvests – a delightful medley of beans, tomatoes, cucumbers, cabbage, beetroot, carrots, salad leaves, and fragrant herbs. However, this abundance is marred by the arrival of blight, a formidable adversary that demands immediate attention. The Blight Encounter The episode takes a turn as blight makes its presence known. Richard's tomato plants have fallen victim to this devastating disease, threatening to wipe out an entire crop. Late Blight, caused by a fungi-like organism, is notorious for its rapid spread, and Richard details the unmistakable symptoms – dark patches on leaves that quickly lead to withering and death. He answers the question of what exactly blight is and elaborates on its impact, drawing parallels to its role in historical events like the Irish potato famine. Richard provides insights into combating blight – from the swift removal and destruction of infected plants to methods of prevention. He shares valuable tips, like ensuring proper spacing for good air circulation, watering soil rather than foliage, and considering blight-resistant varieties. While Richard acknowledges that there is no definitive treatment, he emphasizes the importance of vigilance and action to curb the disease's effects. Supporters Club Buzz The podcast episode also highlights the vibrant community of gardening enthusiasts who make up the supporters club. Richard encourages listeners to leave reviews on podcast platforms or become club members to access exclusive content and seed collections. This week, the supporters club has been focused on sowing spring cabbage seeds and discussing ways to make gardens both beautiful and efficient. Click the button below to find out more Scott's recipe Chef Scott is back this week with a tasty recipe. Aubergine, chickpea and spinach Curry. Absolutely delicious so go give it a try Conclusion In the end, the episode encapsulates the essence of gardening – a beautiful blend of challenges and triumphs. The garden is a realm where life flourishes, but it's also a battleground against forces like blight that test a gardener's resilience. Through Hawkins' memory, the tale of plants' progress, and the fight against blight, the episode paints a vivid picture of a gardener's journey – one that is rewarding, humbling, and ever-evolving. As we bid farewell to this episode,

The potato is a world food staple, yet it is constantly threated by fungal and viral pathogens in all of its growing regions. Farmers combat these problems with chemistry, which cuts farmers profits and has potential consequences for applicators and the environment. Dr. David Douches from Michigan State University discusses the USAID project that installed a cassette of disease resistance genes from wild potato species in the cultivated potato. The result is a potato that can survive better in the Developing World, helping to ensure food security. 

It's that time of year again! We're smack in the middle of June, it's HOT and we've got lots of tomatoes growing in the garden. The best gardening tips to grow lots of tomatoes...right here! Blossom End Rot Blossom End Rot is one of the most common diseases when it comes to growing tomatoes. It is a physiological disorder of a tomato. Symptoms are water-soaked spots on the blossom end of the fruit. These spots can become enlarged and black in color. Secondary infection by decay-causing organisms usually follows. The cause of this disorder is a calcium deficiency in the developing fruit. Extreme fluctuations in moisture, rainy or cloudy weather with high humidity, cool temperatures, insufficient soil calcium, root pruning from nearby cultivation, and excessive ammoniacal nitrogen, potassium, or magnesium fertilization can also increase the chances of blossom end rot. The "Wilt" Issue Southern Bacterial Wilt and Tomato Spotted Wilt are two issues when it comes to growing tomatoes. Southern Bacterial Wilt caused by Ralstonia Solanacearum, this bacterium survives in the soil for extended periods and enters the roots through wounds made by transplanting, cultivation, insect feeding damage, and natural wounds where secondary roots emerge. Disease development is favored by high temperatures and high moisture. The bacteria multiples rapidly inside the water-conducting tissue of the plant, filling it with slime. This can result in rapid wilt of the plant while the leaves will stay green. Tomato Spotted Wilt is spread by tiny insects called thrips, which acquire the virus by feeding on one of many infected weeds or ornamental hosts, and then spreads it to the growing tomato plants. Several weeks after transplanting the plants into your garden, some random plants may appear stunted, and younger leaves may be marked with dark spots (or bronze colored) or have prominent purple veins. Often the upper foliage will become twisted and cupped as the bronze area had expanded. Fruits may also have yellow spots. Younger plants may wilt and die, but older plants may survive and bear discolored fruit that may not fully ripen. Common Diseases & Ways To Fight Back Organic controls consist of crop rotation and selected resistant varieties that are resistant to Fusarium Wilt, Bacterial Wilt, Tomato Mosaic Virus, Early and Late Blight. You want to use a Complete Disease Control drench when it comes to early blight. Fungi Max is great for bacterial wilt. If your tomato plants have signs of early and late blight, as well as, bacterial spot you will want to use Liquid Cop. The Vegetable, Flower, Fruit and Ornamental Fungicide should be used with you have just early and late blight on the tomatoes. Garden Phos is good to use with late blight and bacterial spot. Common Pests & Ways To Fight Back Garden Insect Spray - Thrips, Horn Worms Horticultural Oil - Aphids, Stinkbugs, Flea Beetle, Whiteflies, Spider Mites Bug Buster O - Aphids, Flea Beetles, Whiteflies Monterey BT - Hornworms Take Down Garden Spray - Aphids, Horn Worms, Flea Beetles, Whiteflies Diatomaceous Earth - Cutworms Bug Buster II - Aphids, Horn Worms, Stinkbugs, Flea Beetles, Whiteflies, Spider Mites, Thrips How To Prevent Tomato Diseases Purchase disease-resistant seeds and plants.Provide adequate spacing between plants to ensure proper airflow.Well-drained soil, pH between 6.2 and 6.8, amend with quality compost, good supply organic matterPlant on drip Irrigation System, keep foliage dryCrop RotationFertilization ScheduleCover Crop preceding TomatoesRemove all diseased tomato plant debris Product of the Week Tomato Seeds Watch the Complete Show on YouTube Below: https://youtu.be/jZCuHiFmtNE

Wisconsin potato growers have just about wrapped up planting season, and many may be looking ahead towards potential pests and diseases this growing season. One disease that makes an appearance every summer is late blight. Dr. Amanda Gevens, the Chair of the Department of Plant Pathology at UW-Madison, as well as a Professor in that department and an Extension Specialist in Plant Pathology, shares some advice for spotting late blight in potatoes and managing it.  See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

Late blight is a lousy disease that affects tomatoes stems, leaves and fruit. The pathogen does not survive our winters but if you have "volunteer" tomatoes or potatoes coming up, and had late blight last year, pull them out! Learn more on gardenbite.com.

Late blight can devastate a potato field. Across Canada though, a group of researchers are working, as part of a national research cluster, to develop a strategy to fight back against this costly potato disease. This webinar will explain the work that has been done and what researchers still have to come. Speaker Rick Peters […] The post Fighting Back Against Late Blight – A Spud Smart Innovation Series Webinar & Podcast appeared first on Spud Smart.

Listen to this article from West Coast Nut by contributing writer Mitch Lies.

More tomato tipsGrowing tomatoes seems to be one of the main hobbies of New Zealanders. It’s great to have a go at these fruit – there are many many varieties too and everybody has their favourite ones. But there are some problems that can occur, whether you’re raising them in an open garden bed, or in a glasshouse/tunnelhouse. Here are some more tips for things to watch up for when growing tomatoes. Blossom End Rot has always been translated as a deficiency of calcium. Apparently that is a myth in itself; it has more to do with the inability of the plant to transport calcium through the plant. Gibberellins appear to be playing an important role in that job and most NZ soils are not deficient in calcium; so: try some fertilisers with gibberellic acid (Seafood Soup/Seaweed Tea!)Often the first tomatoes of the season show some Blossom End Rot. With settling temps and regular fertilisation/watering these symptoms often disappear.Early Blight and Late Blight on stems and leaves can move pretty quickly through the plants.Here comes the watering again!!!  Only water the soil (NOT the leaves); remove the lower leaves as soon as practicable, so they don’t drag on the moist soil and get infected.Underwatering also helps in this matter: keep the area drier; make sure the wind/air movement can dry the plants and stems quickly.If you have persistent hassles with blight: keep a regular fungicide treatment going, especially on the lower parts of the plant and very much so before wet, humid weather is forecast; Some of these sprays are systemic (taken up by the plants and giving a built-in immunity); some are protectant fungicides like copper and sulphur. These last two are also “organic” or natural compounds that resist fungal spores from entering the plants.Hygiene is important too. Maybe plant tomatoes in a new part of the vegetable garden (no history of fungal tomato diseases nearby); dispose of diseased material asap – Do NOT compost that stuff – chuck it in the green bin to be taken away!Watering - I’ve noticed that by slightly underwatering the tomatoes, their fruit become a lot sweeter and more intense in flavour; It pays to treat the tomato plants MEAN!LISTEN TO AUDIO ABOVE

Original Air Date: June 2, 2018 Garden Fortress: Beasts, Bugs, Blights, Oh My!  Weeds, Hot Days, Cold Nights, Wind, Hail, Yikes! There are so many elements that can in some way spoil your hard work in the garden.  There are beasts, bugs, blights, viruses, bacteria, weeds, soil imbalances and fertilizer needs. You need a sort of garden fortress to protect your plants. Beasts The voracious appetite of a ground hog can level a new crop of green beans in the blink of an eye. Chipmunks will steal you almost ripe strawberries just before you get there, bowl in hand and mouth watering for a treat.  Mice, moles, as well as chipmunks can eat the bottom half of you root veggies.  I have had almost a whole 4’x4’x bed eaten from below.  Birds are more of a problem with berries than with veggies.  I've watched birds fly off with a blueberry in his beak and back in minutes to steal another one.  I remember vividly the first time I saw that the ripe strawberries in the garden where gone to a chipmunk, “I can share, how much can they really eat?” I thought. Well they will eat them all, so I found out.  And come back for more! The birds will steal a few blackberries but the chipmunks don’t seem to like the thorns, so they leave them alone.  I have had chipmunks scale a dwarf apple tree and take a bit of not one be several ripe apples.  At least he could just eat a whole one instead of nibbling on a few apples. Sheeesh!  And once a chipmunk scaled a trellis to eat Sugar Snap Peas.  Not Just The Small Animals Either As if the little creatures were not enough of a bother, the last two years a bear has been knocking over out compost bins. This last fall the bear destroyed three bins completely, we had to recycle them.  They cost about $100 each so it was an expensive attack.  The deer generally leave us alone until fall when they like to level out Brussel Sprouts.  One year it was the night before our thanksgiving dinner.  I went out to pick them fresh for our feast to find almost all of the stalks stripped.  The deer will also level the Swiss Chard and the Collards overnight if there is any left. Bugs That’s just the beasts.  The bugs are a whole ‘nother story! The infamous Cabbage Worm and now the Midge attack the Cole crops along with the Cabbage Root Maggot. Young plants are regularly attacked by cutworms, slugs, flea beetles and root maggots.  If you have ever watched a Horned Tomato Worm feasting on your plants, you will agree that they are truly monstrous!  They must be the inspiration for horror movies.  I had one infestation of aphids the literally ate a bed of Chinese Cabbage I had in a hoop house.  I check in one weekend, everything was fine, the next weekend the plants were brown and dried out.  Yipes!  The weird thing is that I never saw them coming and by the time I noticed the damage they were moving to the next thing.  I will admit that I never have had a plague of locust!  I have had leaf miners attack my spinach, but the plant usually outgrows the problem. Colorado Potato Beetle lay bright orange eggs under leaves of potatoes and eggplants. It took us three years to get the Asparagus Beetle under control in our patch. Japanese beetles really eat hardy on my green beans and my Blueberries.  I manage squash vine borer by growing most of my cucurbits on trellis’ that seems to avoid the problem.  Blights, Wilts, Fungi, Viruses, Bacteria, Mildews. Oh My! In our region Late Blight is the most destructive of all of these, wiping out a whole crop of tomatoes or potatoes overnight.  Farmers and Gardeners alike can see their hard work vanish with no hope of recovery.  The most popular garden vegetable, the tomato, is affected by lots of wilts and diseases.  Fortunately Hybrids and NEW breeds have been developed to resist many of those diseases.  Already there are a handful of varieties are being goffered that are Late blight resistance.  Early blight is not as destructive and its cousin it still can cause troub...

Late Blight is a disease that primarily effects potatoes and tomatoes and is responsible for the Irish potato famine in the mid-nineteenth century. In this episode we discuss what causes late blight, how you might control it and what to do if you find yourself with late blight in your garden.   We need your help to keep this podcast going! Consider supporting us at the $5/month level for access to our Slack group- maybe we'll even answer one of your questions in an episode! For more info, check out our Patreon page! Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/encyclopediabotanica Show notes: http://www.seattleurbanfarmco.com/blog/ Don't forget to Tweet us @seattleurbnfarm using hashtag #EBpodcast with your garden questions!