Ice Coffee: the history of human activity in Antarctica

Ali Gordon and Solan Jensen: go die in a fire for helping cover up for Hadleigh.

What do you get if you cross religion with flat Earthers and Antarctica? A cross podcaster and little else.

Coming back at yer, six months late and barely on topic, episode 157 addresses the increasingly loud and dunderheaded online chatter about escaping society and trying to establish society, only with more ice and surprise cannibalism. Libertarians probably don't listen to my output, but any that do can dig a well, actually, and throw themselves down it before getting in touch to try to correct me on where I got their politics, reading preferences, and predictions about their Antarctic ventures wrong. 

You don't just throw a Trans-Antarctic Expedition or an International Geophysical Year together.  These things take planning. Here's some background on the planners and introductions to some of the doers. 

Several years of Macquarie Island winters receive attention as I chill out under a Casuarina after several fraught months.

I give voice to another almost but not quite lost snippet from "Big Dead Place" and I give the microphone to Adam Fitzgerald who voices the introduction to Jeff Maynard's new book, "The Frontier Below."

In 1983 Australian glaciologist Trevor Hamley joined a Soviet traverse from the Russian coastal station, Mirny, to Dome Charlie, high atop the Antarctic plateau. Bouncing about in the back of a T-55 tank converted into a living quarters/galley/dining space/lab, recording locations on audio cassette tape, wielding a hammer, and ignoring the ideological and political drivers of the cold war in the name of survival, camaraderie, and science, Trevor experienced Antarctica in a unique context at a unique point in history. His book, "Vodka in a Vegemite Jar" recounts his experiences during the preparation for and during the traverse in compelling prose that keeps one eye on the immediacy of the narrative and another on the forty year perspective 2023 affords on his time in the back of a Kharkovchanka. Introduced to Trevor by Jeff Wilson, who recounts his own Antarctic tale in episode 151, I spent an afternoon with the Hamleys after reading a galley proof copy of the manuscript. I listened intently as Trevor mapped the overall arc of the story he recounted in his text as well as the story of bringing that text together. Fortunately I remembered to press record on the Zoom H4N, so you get to listen intently, too. I am proud to bring "Vodka in a Vegemite Jar" to the attention of "Ice Coffee" listeners and I encourage them to head to https://www.trevorhamley.com/ to see what's on offer for $30 plus postage. My copy arrived in the mail today and I'm over the moon to see the finished product in its colour illustrated glory. That's going straight to the pool room.

Australian Antarctic Division alumnus, Jeff Wilson, recounts his experiences at Australian stations and in the Ross Sea. Road trip with our eldest. Good company at Anglesea. Good food. Good audio. One of the best days 2023 offered up.

The ANARE presence at Heard Island runs to 1955 and switches focus to continental Antarctica.  The Island taught Australians to work on glaciers and to run dog teams, saw John Bechervaise cut his Antarctic teeth and lead the first ascent of Big Ben, and claimed the lives of two winterers.  "Ice Coffee" leaves Heard Island alone for a bit having documented its reputation as a very difficult place to operate boats, keep sheep, and traverse safely. Don't think Heard Island counts as proper Antarctic? Head to 53 deg S and say that. 

ANARE occupation at Heard Island ran short but intense, and sometimes in tents.  In addition to large quantities of wind and sleet the island provided a training ground for Antarctic travelers and their dogs.  Challenging maritime approaches led to innovative approaches by maritime challengers, and everyone got home safely, this episode. 

Argentina and Britain needle each other over what huts go where around the Antarctica Peninsula and notes of protest change hands at a fevered pace. Hot heads at low temperatures lead to a low ebb in high latitudes camaraderie ashore at Hope Bayhia Esperanza. And Chile was there, too. 

Yet another amazing interview through which to inform you and by which to relieve myself of the burden to write and record a chronological narrative episode this month.  "Ice Coffee": where me goofing off and being lazy still results in audio gold. 

Professor Meredith Nash spent two years studying and reporting on the culture within the Australian Antarctic Division.  Their findings, released late in 2022, may prove a turning point in the history of Australia's presence in Antarctica.  Professor Nash spoke to me about their research and their experiences in Antarctica as part of the inaugural Homeward Bound voyage. Michael Marshall knows more about the flat Earth movement than anyone who doesn't believe the Earth is flat, and many of those who do, too.  Marsh spoke to me about how Antarctica fits into the history of and the models put forward by flat Earth adherents.  Finally, an important update about the past and the future of "Ice Coffee."

Josh Jensen spent an austral summer keeping LC-130 Ski Hercules operational out of McMurdo.  I spoke to him about the challenges that throws up and found out the days of boiling a pot of oil over the stove and pouring it into the sump ended with the last big roundy engines to depart the continent in the 1970s. Cheers to Josh for putting aside time to discuss the confluence of my two of my favourite things: Antarctica and aviation. 

Some historical and political context for the Russian return south in Soviet Union form.  Bolsheviks: form soviets and roll out.

I haven't interviewed other Antarctic podcasters because that would make for dull content. "Do you press record?  Wow!  I do, too!  Hey, how good is Audacity?  Antarctica's cold, huh?" This episode I interview Samantha Hodder about her Antarctic podcast because the stories told in her series, "This Is Our Time," lie so far outside those recounted in my series that there's a lot to discuss beyond the bones of the medium.  

Paul Emile-Victor's charges are ashore and charging.  But wait, there's more. Call now and get this free base fire valued at over five buildings.

Port Martin. Port Au Francaise. Port Malloy. Port Jean d'Arc. You'd think the French would switch up it with some cognac or cointreau. 

If you set an AI process in motion to build a hard as nails nineteenth century seadog you'd likely arrive at Dave Donnelly in ninety-nine percent of your iterations.  Dave looks and moves through the world as though he just stepped out of the pages of a Joseph Conrad book.  Have a listen to episode 140 to understand why I value Dave's company and regularly seek out his insights into whale biology. 

Professor Daniella McCahey of Texas Tech discusses sexism at Antarctic stations.  * Except by HamiltonSuites, who should lie on their left side, raise their right knee to their chest, lubricate this episode and stick it up their arse.

Ice'll kill ya' That's what I said Ice'll kill ya' And then you'll be dead

Thomas Walkington speaks about the wreck of the Pegasus and his time on the ice as part of VXE-6. Jim Butler showers praise on me and my output after discussing how he engages with Antarctica from half a world away. Jeff Maynard maps how he chose what to include and what to leave out of his most recent book about Sir Hubert Wilkins. Strap your ears in, folks. This is a big 'un. 

I wasn't expecting the Greek shipping magnate.

Three members of the NBSAE drown in an accident on the barrier edge.  Every other member of the NBSAE does their bit in making the project one of the most productive and smooth running examples of its type and of its time.  Besides kicking off or sustaining the high latitudes careers of several scientist with extremely long Ice Coffee legs the glaciology, geology and meteorology carried out during the two winters and three summers spent at Maudheim gave the footing for and set a high bar for subsequent scientific projects coming down the IGY pike. 

John Giaever storms it in as a high latitudes can-do-mo-fo with an international team of scientists.  No matter how many committees got involved and put their bureaucratic handbrake on the NBSAE, the residents of Maudheim got south and got on with their data gathering and trail prep.

The role of ham radio operators in keeping Antarcticans sane through the long dark is given some attention.  Additional audio of Vivian Fuchs speaking to Donald Milner at the BBC was made available by Thomas Henderson of Graceful Willow Productions and with the permission of Jules Madey (http://www.gwillow.com/) The music closing out this episode is "Can you hear me: part 1" composed by Wally Gunn (http://www.wallygunn.com/) and performed by Passepartout Duo (https://passepartoutduo.com/).

A brief and patchy history of Chile as context for the nation's expeditions southward in the twentieth century. 

Heard and Macquarrie Islands: tragedy, rockets, sheep, and ham.

The first Australian National Antarctic Research Expedition gets moving.  Led my Campbell, informed by Mawson, and ignoring any potential input from Davis, the first foryas didn't kick all the committee proposed goals but a start is a start. Heard Island. Macquarrie Island. The last Antarctic outing of the Wyatt Earp.  The first Antarctic outing of LST 3501, which was almost also the last.

A mixed bag of achievements and tragedy for the 1948 FIDS. New faces with big Antarctic careers ahead of them show up in the narrative. If you are working through the series in order and don't usually listen to episodes immediately after they're released I urge you to give this one an early play as there's an important message about pies near the end that's only relevant for the weeks immediately after I hit the "Publish" button.

Where the history of other nations involved in the Antarctic land grab received plenty of attention in the series to date, Argentina only received mention as being close to the Antarctic Peninsula.  I've sought to redress that in this episode. Thanks to Jim for test piloting the new audio settings.  Hope I don't blow anyone's speakers with unexpected volume.

While theft is rare in circumstances where most needs and wants are catered to by management other crimes occur in Antarctica with surprisingly monotonous regularity, given the small numbers of people in the far south at any given moment.  Other podcasts have dedicated episodes to the matter but that doesn't mean I shouldn't cover it too, so I did. The Australian Antarctic Division recently announced it was decreasing alcohol allowances and banning home-brew.  In part the change was geared to make women feel safer on base.  It doesn't deal with the root cause of that problem but if it helps bring about positive change then that's something.  We already tried doing nothing and it didn't work.   

A formal book review of "With Scott Before the Mast," an informal review of "Operation Deep Freeze II Gooney Birds," and interviews with Associate Professor Priscilla Wehi, Elodie Camprasse, and Evan Townsend. 

Trail operations, survey flights, tension, and a surprise for the Darlingtons.  The RARE comes to a close and departs Stonington Island with the aid of the Operation Windmill ice breakers. The FIDS stay to keep the lights on at Base E. 

In this episode I fail to respect, let alone defer to, religious beliefs and the artifacts and structures dedicated to various deities' alleged glory while recounting the ongoing story of religion at high southern latitudes.   Happy to take debates on the merits of religion generally or your religion specifically if this outing causes sufficient umbrage.  I've got a podcast for exactly that sort of dialogue and it's rare it gets an airing because most local theologians know to give me a wide berth.  Come at me if you need to.  Perspective adjustments on the merits of the apologia you've been fed by your faith leaders provided free. Ice Coffee: brewing up, blaspheming, and shedding brittle snowflakes unable or unwilling to present a compelling case that I should respect their faith, let alone adopt it. 

The Ronnes sulk about the FIDS as the RARE settle in to their digs on Stonington Island but realise they have to Voltron up or get little done.   George Takei makes his series debut in company with Katie Sagal and Billy West. 

Worried that you might be feeling cheated on the history front, this month, here's some hefty chunks of trail experiences from the pen of one who lived it.  Do you want your word hoosh thick or thin?  I can add extra p flour, if you want. 

Sean McBride intends taking electric flight to Antarctic and I am excited about it.  I'm also excited about my own investigations into heading south to follow in Wilkins and Eilson's prop steps but uncertain whether it will or should happen. 

US Navy ice breakers get ground control parties ashore to provide fixed points of reference for Operation Highjump aerial photographs.  Helicopters work ship to Antarctic shore for the first time.

The RARE draws nearer its destination and the FIDS head out on trail.  Will the confluence of two Antarctic expeditions in the same place at the same time conflict with the laws of physics?  Listen to 119 and find out. Oooh, see what I did there? Sizzly call to action. Getting good at this marketing shit, ay?  

The largest ever Antarctic expedition runs its course. The Sennet heads north with its bow in a sling, divers get with the diving, and the DC-3 makes its "Ice Coffee" debut while the Sea Bees make everything else. 

The United States Navy returns to Antarctica, this time under Admiral Cruzen, though Admiral Byrd was there and waving hard at the cameras and yelling that we shouldn't forget that he's the mayor of Antarctica and firsted all the firsts.  While not the first fatal air accident in Antarctica, the George 1 becomes the first fatal air accident in Antarctica anyone can recount with any degree of certainty, with white-out conditions leading to controlled flight into terrain, foreshadowing further aviation tragedies in the far south. 

This month, in a very special episode of "Ice Coffee" Amanda Zimmerman shares her insights on life at McMurdo Station. Timely stuff for those listeners applying for USARP slots for the first time. Best of luck with your applications, people.

Large quantities of stores, lumber and conviviality go ashore and become Trepassey House, home to FIDS and their dogs for several subsequent years. 

The Tabarin mooted, Marr demurred Base E arises on Stonington Island, five nautical miles from the BGLE hut on Barry Island but two hundred yards from the Johnny-come-five-years-ago East Base.  Ted Bingham leads the first iteration of the FIDS and sets the tone for subsequent cohorts.  Scones, rum, freshies and the sort of treats that make Brits wave their hands about like Wallace from "Wallace and Gromit" while saying, "Ooooh, lovely," but which would leave anyone from any other culture saying "What the hell kind of celebratory repast is this?  Am I being punished for something in some passive aggressive British fashion, because that's the only reason I can conjure that you would feed me mince pies" Or is that just me? 

Finn Ronne makes ready for his return to Stonington Island, getting away late, in debt and with morale already fraying at the edges.  My apologies to anyone who downloaded the place holder episode used to keep this place held while I finished editing episode 113.  Here's the real deal.

With a hundred meg of storage in my name and a lot of audio snippets with nothing better to do I give you the bits episode.  Mind the neck bolts. This episode features the first competition I've run in a long time.  As usual it's biased in favour of early listeners who are old and who are me.  Voices from the past. Voices I hope will feature in the future. One voice that long since broke. We belong Dad.

Hope Bay's second tranche of winter residents settle in. Then they head home to a less than heartening reception than their Swedish predecessors experienced, though Taylor didn't die in a public transport accident, so there's that. 

Penguin sex gets the attention it deserves after Murray Levick deprived the world of his observations due to his prudish Victorian era sensibilities.  Professor Lloyd Spencer Davis gives you the good oil on the oily birds getting it on (early birds only get worms). Extended and diminished visibility and lights in the sky at high latitudes receive some attention from a non-physicist who will accept corrections with gratitude and alacrity. 

James Marr takes his military expedition south and sets up shop on Goudier Island at Port Lockroy in Bransfield House, and also Base A.