Climbing on the Bookshelf

Fifty Classic climbs of North America (winner of the 1995 AAC literary award) a.k.a. "The Book" is one of the most influential guide books of its time and even still used today! This interview with the authors Steve Roper (Camp 4 & Ascent) and Alan Steck (A Mountaineers life & Ascent) is hosted by Jim McCarthy (known for his influence with ice climbing and Proboscis back in '63) is courtesy of the AAC library. Thank you. I hope you all enjoy this trip down the memory lane of climbing literature. If you're lucky you can still find a copy of the book and maybe you could make a start into your own climbing of Fifty Classic Climbs. Don't forget to get in touch with your own stories about how you're getting on. Watch out for that Hummingbird one!! IG - climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/climbingonthebookshelf/message

David Smart is known for his historical climbing biographies and in depth research on his subjects. Paul Preuss, Emilio Comici and now Royal Robbins gets the Smart treatment, all being pioneers of their age and paving the way for future generations of climbers by pushing the limits of what is possible. We talk about his past work and his love of climbing and climbing writing and his new book on Royal Robbins "The American Climber". Also if you pay attention you get a sneak peak of what he is working on next! You can buy the book from wherever you normally get your books from! Or here : Royal Robbins: The American Climber — Books (mountaineers.org) Royal Robbins: The American Climber: Amazon.co.uk: Smart, David: 9781680516586: Books Enjoy! --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Mimi Zieman has treated frozen limbs on the highest mountain, delivered triplets near the deepest ocean trench, tap danced through Broadway studios, and has been a suburban mom of three – all experiences that have prepared her for new challenges. Her latest challenge, writing Tap Dancing on Everest, about the risks we take to become our truest selves. A small team of four climbers would attempt a new route on the East Face (Kangshung Face) of Mt. Everest, considered the most remote and dangerous side of the mountain and only successfully climbed once before. Unlike the first larger team, Mimi Zieman's team would climb without using supplemental oxygen, porter support, or chance for rescue. She would accompany the climbers as the doctor and only woman, although she was still in her third year of medical school. Full of self-doubt, Zieman grappled with whether to go but couldn't resist the call of the mountains. When three climbers disappeared during their summit attempt, she reached the knife edge of her limits and dug deeply to fight for the climbers' lives and to find her voice. Tap Dancing on Everest is a coming-of-age story about the risks we take to become our truest selves. Zieman weaves her childhood as the daughter of immigrants raised in 1970's New York with capturing the curiosity and awe of a young woman as she faces down messages to stay small and safe and ventures into the unknown. Find out more about Mimi here : https://www.mimiziemanmd.com IG @mimiziemanmd You can buy the book from all good bookshops. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/climbingonthebookshelf/message

In the 1950's and 60's Yosemite Valley was the centre of the rock climbing universe. Camp 4 was the gathering place for the "Golden Age" of Yosemite climbing. Steve Roper lived in Yosemite Valley for nearly 10 years, this is his story from the inside of that era. In 1967 he co founded the Sierra Club magazine "Ascent" with Allen Steck, he was the author of and "Fifty classic climbs" which is still used today and not forgetting "Camp 4 - Recollections of a Yosemite climber" which was such a significant book that it was used against the Park Rangers in a legal battle against them closing Camp 4! . In this candid and raw interview he talks about his early years climbing and his writings of the books mentioned above. Many, many thanks to the AAC Library archive with their invaluable help for the access to the interviews (shout out to Shane Johnson, Pete Takeda and Katie Sauter). Without their dedication to their work this episode would not have been possible. THANK YOU. IG - @Americanalpine & @Alpinelibrary IG - @Climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/climbingonthebookshelf/message

We go again with Deucey to chat about his research for his two volumes of work "Mechanical Advantage, Tools for the wild vertical". Kindly and readily available to download as a PDF or to order and own an actual copy of the volumes (for those of you that prefer actual things!). Then eventually moving onto another use for his Portaledge design, Rain forest activism.

John "Deucey" Middendorf is one of the 80's & 90's big wall pioneers and has climbed all over the world from Baffin Island to El Cap to Pakistan. His Portaledge design revolutionised big wall climbing and has had many iterations and what he is perhaps best know for, although he has made many other types of gear. In Two parts (just like his new research volumes) we delve a little into his past, portaledges and his beautifully researched volumes (In 2 editions) "Mechanical Advantage, Tools for the wild vertical" on equipment design which you can find and buy from...... Volume 1 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609796-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical Volume 2 : https://www.blurb.com/b/11609835-mechanical-advantage-tools-for-the-wild-vertical OR Google search for: "Blurb John Middendorf" or "Blurb Mechanical Advantage" Check out his research at https://www.bigwalls.net/ OR https://bigwallgear.com Also check out his YouTube channel which has the latest talk from when he went to Flagstaff https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=CoYF4fSNfZ0 Check him out on IG @johnmiddendorf4 --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Katie Quinn AKA The Sports Librarian reviews and recommends sports literature online. Her real passion is the outdoors and mountaineering literature where I chatted to her about this, and other stuff too! Listen out for some really great recommendations of mountaineering books, films and podcasts. Her favourite book is the episodes picture. You can catch up with Katie on most socials @thesportslibrarian OR katiequinn88.com OR even check out her site on https://bookshop.org/shop/thesportslibrarian for detailed recommends. I had a great time chatting, nice one Katie! thank you ❤️ MERCH - https://ab9542.myshopify.com/

Katie Ives is a renowned writer in the international climbing community, her first book is Imaginary Peaks the Riesenstien Hoax and other climbing dreams where she details the mystery of the Hoax within the larger view of climbing history and the seemingly endless search for newly discovered peaks and claims of first ascents. Beautifully researched, the book also covers the wider field throughout the world of exploration and discovery. We chat about her time at Alpinist as Editor-in-Chief and she has an insight into the future of mountaineering literature. You can buy her book from the publisher ( Mountaineers Books ) in the USA here - https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/imaginary-peaks-the-riesenstein-hoax-and-other-mountain-dreams OR If you are in the UK then from ( Little Peak Press ) - https://www.littlepeak.co.uk/catalogue/imaginary-peaks-the-riesenstein-hoax-and-other-mountain-dreams_66/ OR You could also support your local bookshop by actually walking into an actual store and buy or order it from there! You know about collecting things if you're a climber!! You can also check out current and past editions of Alpinist magazine on their website here - http://www.alpinist.com/ You can check out what Katie is up to on her social media channels by visiting IG @katie_r_ives MERCH HERE - https://linktr.ee/climbbookshelf IG @climbbookshelf or via email climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com

"The World beneath their feet" is Scott Ellsworth's fourth book shifting his usual focus of lecturing at University of Michigan on Afroamerican and African studies, to the Himalayas, where a great summit race during the inter war years of the 1930's and 40's insued, leading up to the conquest of Everest in 1953 for the British expedition 1 day before Elizabeth was crowned Queen of England. You can buy his books at all good bookshops. If you want to learn more about any of the subjects talked about then please get in touch with Scott scottell@umich.edu   OR   @scotteauthor  @Climbbookshelf  climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

A Feeling for Rock author and 2021 Banff Mountain Literature Award winner Sarah-Jane Dobner sits in her attic and then moves downstairs to chat about her book, inspiration for it and all things climbing. You can buy her book from her website and for the keen eyed people, you can see her socks! https://dobdobdob.co.uk/a-feeling-for-rock/ Also look out for her friend Sandro Gromen-Hayes - @sandro.g.h @Climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

A harrowing tale from Elisabeth Revol whilst summiting Nanga Parbat about her emotional rollercoaster ride from tragedy, survival, guilt and a tribute to her climbing partner Tomek (Tomasz Mackiewicz). You can purchase the book from herehttps://www.adventurebooks.com/products/to_live?_pos=1&_psq=to%20live&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40705575551181  You can also see the talk Natalie Berry "To Live : Life and death on the killer mountain" gave at the Sheffield Libraries event back in July 2021 here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jYVTjWwpoDs You can also see an interview and footage from the climb (in Polish but great if you want to see the conditions etc.) here https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=s0lvNAoFLlA Awesome viewing of a fascinating account. climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com  @climbbookshelf --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Legendary Alpinist Kurt Diemberger is the last remaining living link to the golden age of first ascents of 8000m peaks in the 1950's and 60's. He is best known for his ascents of Broad Peak in 1957 and Dhaulagiri in 1960. Summits and Secrets concentrates on his early years and his rise in the mountaineering world up to that time, and a bit beyond! WOW! There are also a few Youtube interviews of him including his amazing documentaries. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=kurt+diemberger If you would like to buy the book from Vertebrate Publishing they have a new website! here's the link: https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/summits_and_secrets?_pos=1&_psq=summits%20and%20secrets&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40705570046157 @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

This episode is with the Writer and Mountaineer, Amy McCulloch. She has summited Aconcagua and Manaslu and found her inspiration for her new book "Breathless" just below the summit of Manaslu. She has also written numerous children's and young adult books, co-writing The Magpie Society with Zoe Sugg. If that wasn't enough she is also training to complete the Marathon Des Sables at the end of March! and for a great charity "Tommy's" see linktree below. Enjoy! Her new book "Breathless" is OUT NOW from all good book shops.  See all the links below to find out more Special Edition - https://www.waterstones.com/book/breathless/amy-mcculloch/2928377080471  linktree - https://linktr.ee/Amymcculloch  Behind the scenes short - https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=1&v=chZUd9rk5NI&feature=emb_title  @amymccullochbooks  @amymcculloch  @climbbookshelf MY YOUTUBECHANNEL https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJZ21CWUovyyynvHF6sVx-g climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Heather Dawe is the founder of Little Peak Press, a publishing company that aspires to make beautiful books that take you to the mountains and other wild lands. She is a runner, cyclist, artist, climber and also a full time mother. She has written and collaborated numerous books including "Waymaking" an anthology of women's adventure writing, art and poetry which was the winner of the Jon Whyte award at Banff Literature Festival in 2019. Her new book "Mountain Stories" is an illustrated memoir of journeys through some of Scotland's most beautiful landscapes, including Skye's Cuillin, Knoydart, Assynt and the Far North. Written during lockdown, she tells these stories as powerful means of reconnection with the mountains when they are physically inaccessible. Dawe's journeys are made by walking, running, cycling or sea-kayak. These stories are a reflection of the importance of wild places and the inspiration, art and culture associated with them. You can order the book from here - Mountain Stories - signed copy | Little Peak - books that take you to other places or your local bookshop can order it for you. I think she would like that! Hope you enjoy my chat with her.  Heather's Website (heatherdawe.co.uk)   Little Peak - books that take you to other places  @heatherldawe  @heatherdawe  @climbbookshelf  https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJZ21CWUovyyynvHF6sVx-g climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Accounts of Lionel Terray's passion for climbing and his involvement in the 1950 expedition to be the 1st to summit an 8000 metre peak....Annapurna. Was he the GOAT?   You can purchase the book from     https://www.mountaineers.org/books/books/conquistadors-of-the-useless (USA).    https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/conquistadors_of_the_useless?_pos=1&_psq=conquist&_ss=e&_v=1.0 @ClimbBookshelf or email climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Many thanks to all of you that have listened, rated and subscribed to my show and to the support of Publishers and Guests. I could not have done it without you. Xx  https://www.adventurebooks.com/ https://www.panmacmillan.com/  http://www.denoel.fr/  https://factortwo.co.uk/wil-treasure-showreel  https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/  http://www.paulpritchard.com.au/  https://www.tarquincooper.com/  LOOK OUT FOR EPISODE 1 OF SEASON 2 AT THE END OF JANUARY 2022 --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

This episode I have a great chat with action sports presenter and commentator of the Red Bull X-Alps, The UIAA Ice Climbing world cup and all round adventure man Tarquin Cooper. We also talk a bit about mountaineering books too. Hope you enjoy? @adventuretarq  https://www.tarquincooper.com/  @redbullxalps https://www.redbullxalps.com/  @uiaamountains https://iceclimbing.sport/  @climbbookshelf   https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJZ21CWUovyyynvHF6sVx-g climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

UK climbing legend Paul Pritchard talks with me about his accident on the Totem Pole and his journey through life, recovery and acceptance, his "Rite of Passage" trek with his son and he has a new book out "The Mountain Path" AVAILABLE NOW from Vertebrate Publishing (UK).  https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/the_mountain_path?_pos=1&_psq=the%20mountain%20path&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40705574305997 His previous books are also available from Vertebrate Publishing (adventurebooks.com), well worth the read!    @_paulpritchard_   www.paulpritchard.com.au  Rite Of Passage - YouTube   @climbbookshelf https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCJZ21CWUovyyynvHF6sVx-g  climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

An updated report on The Last Ride Project.  PROJECT COMPLETE!!!!!   Well done guys!!! Follow them on the social media sites below for pictures etc.  Also don't forget to check back in the new year when they will have info on their next summit bid. Instagram / TikTok - @thelastrideproject Strava - thelastrideproject Youtube - /thelastride Instagram / Twitter - @climbbookshelf --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

This one is for all you Everest and 8000m nuts. I sit down with Mick Conefrey and talk about his 1st ascents Trilogy and another book on the way next year too! Also what inspired him and what he thinks might happen in the future for mountain literature. You can order his current books from his website via the link. Look out for other books by Mick such as How to Climb Mont Blanc in a skirt, The Adventurers Handbook and other titles. Happy reading!   https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/books/the-last-great-mountain  Also his new book EVEREST 1922 is OUT NOW! https://www.mickconefrey.co.uk/books/everest-1922 Twitter @mickulus   @ClimbBookshelf   climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

2 Adventurers, 7 Summits and 1 story to tell. Details of an exciting 3 year project involving climbing and skiing the 7 Summits and some paragliding thrown in for good measure, enjoy the ride!

Jon Krakauer's personal account of one of the 3 expeditions that summited Mount Everest in 1996. Leaving 8 dead, he tells the tale of human tragedy and endurance. You can buy the book from the publisher  https://www.panmacmillan.com/authors/jon-krakauer/into-thin-air/9781447200185  You can also message or follow me on Twitter or Instagram @ClimbBookshelf or via climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

UK Climbing's Factor Two host Wil Treasure talks with me about his favourite mountain literature, his first books and about other climbing related chat too! His choice of book....."Lets Go Climbing" by Colin Kirkus.  You can listen to his podcast Factor Two about climbing and outdoor adventure.   https://factortwo.co.uk/ https://wiltreasure.co.uk/   @wil.treasure @ClimbBookshelf or climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Doug Scott's account of the first ascent and descent of The Ogre (Baintha Brakk) and some interesting history lessons thrown in for good measure!  Many thanks to Vertebrate Publishing for the use of the extracts and you can order a copy from here  https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/the_ogre?_pos=1&_psq=the%20ogre&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40705574568141 @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

A classic french novel from the Chamonix valley. If you dont buy the book the queen of the cows will get you! Buy the book from Vertabrate Publishing and not from the Other place! https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/first_on_the_rope?_pos=1&_psq=first%20on%20the%20rope&_ss=e&_v=1.0&variant=40705559232717 @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

One mans tragic tale and journey into the heart of the Alaska wilderness to live off the land and live a life of independence.  Many thanks to Pan Macmillan for allowing me to read the extracts. Head over to their site to order a copy at  https://www.panmacmillan.com/authors/jon-krakauer/into-the-wild/9780330453677  and you can read about Bus142 here  https://www.uaf.edu/museum/collections/ethno/projects/bus_142/ @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

In this episode I'm talking about my climbing experiences (total of .....2!)   @ClimbBookshelf  or the old fashioned way  climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com  Not even Jeff can supply you with this story! --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

Etoiles et Tempetes or Starlight and Storm was written in 1954, this book is a detailed account of one mans conquest of the Great North Faces of the Alps.  Buy the book from your local bookshop or wherever you get your books from. https://www.amazon.co.uk/Starlight-Storm-Exploration-Gaston-Rebuffat/dp/0375755063 https://www.penguinrandomhouse.com/series/MLE/modern-library-exploration @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

First winter ascents of the world's highest peaks over 8000 metres (mainly by Polish climbers!)  Buy the book from Vertebrate Publishing and not from Jeff! https://www.adventurebooks.com/products/winter_8000?_pos=1&_psq=winter%2080&_ss=e&_v=1.0 @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message

In this short introduction to my show I talk about my plans for future episodes and what it's all about. @climbbookshelf climbingonthebookshelf@gmail.com --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/climbingonthebookshelf/message