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Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He's been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming. In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change. A lot has happened in Lightner's life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he's been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country's first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it's still not really his thing. And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15. In this episode, Lighter and I catch up about the last six years, discuss the importance of community and connection, and consider the value of forgiveness. This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Guest: Kai Lightner Nonprofit: Climbing for Change Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine
250410PC: Bergsteigen für die SelbstverantwortungMensch Mahler am 10.04.2025 Ja, wir haben uns daran gewöhnt, dass wir die Verantwortung für unser Leben abgeben. Zuerst an die Eltern, aber daran sind nicht wir, sondern die Helikoptereltern schuld. Dann an die Lehrer, die Kirche, die Versicherungen, die Sozialsysteme, den Staat. Die anderen sollen gefälligst für mich machen. Der Philosoph Günter Seubold erinnert an die christliche Soziallehre. Dort gibt es das Subsidaritätsprinzip. „Jeder ist zunächst für sich selbst verantwortlich. Erst wenn er, aufgrund welcher Umstände auch immer, das nicht mehr schafft, treten die anderen solidarisch für ihn ein.“ Der Staat könne nicht alle Gefahren für den Einzelnen auf sich nehmen, fügt der Philosoph hinzu.Eine Therapie für das Erlernen der Selbstverantwortung hat Seubold auch parat: Die Gesellschaft würde sich elementar verändern, wenn mehr Menschen die Berge erlebten, sagt er. Denn: „Die Selbstverantwortung ist für einen Bergsteiger elementar. Das lernt man am Berg.“Seibold, selbst begeisterter Alpinist weiter: Wenn man etwas aus eigener Kraft leisten könne, stärke das das Selbstvertrauen. Wesentlich sei dabei auch das Risiko. Die Gefahr, ist sie überwunden, erzeugt das schöne Gefühl der Dankbarkeit. Und diese Dankbarkeit erzeugt eine neue Liebe zum Leben. Fazit: Eigenverantwortung zu übernehmen stärkt Freude, Dankbarkeit und Selbstbewusstsein. Und aus dieser Haltung heraus kann man auch – gemäß dem christlichen Subsidiaritätsprinzip – anderen Menschen in schwierigen Situationen etwas geben – und auch dankbar annehmen, wenn man selbst auf andere angewiesen wird. Also: Geht in die Berge – oder sucht Euch andere Herausforderungen. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
In this episode of The Crux True Survival Story Podcast, hosts Julie Henningsen and Kaycee McIntosh explore the harrowing experience of Rear Admiral Richard Evelyn Byrd in Antarctica during the winter of 1934. Byrd, already famous for his polar explorations, volunteered for a solo mission to collect meteorological data in a tiny buried shack during the Antarctic winter. With temperatures plummeting to -70°F in perpetual darkness, Byrd's scientific dedication was tested when his poorly ventilated stove began leaking carbon monoxide, slowly poisoning him over months. Despite his deteriorating health, he continued his meteorological observations and initially concealed his condition during radio check-ins to prevent endangering potential rescuers. After a failed first attempt, a rescue team led by Dr. Thomas Poulter finally reached Byrd, finding him emaciated but alive. Byrd's ordeal, which he later documented in his book "Alone," not only contributed valuable scientific data but influenced isolation studies for military and space programs and led to the prohibition of solo Antarctic missions. The episode presents a remarkable testament to human endurance in one of Earth's most unforgiving environments. 00:00 Welcome to the Crux True Survival Story Podcast 00:31 Setting the Scene: Antarctica, 1934 01:00 Meet Rear Admiral Richard Evelyn Bird 01:27 Bird's Polar Expeditions 04:25 The Second Antarctic Expedition 06:14 Bird's Solo Winter Mission 07:52 Life in Isolation 12:08 The Silent Killer: Carbon Monoxide 18:04 Struggling with the Stove 19:17 Bird's Deteriorating Condition 19:52 Maintaining the Facade 22:04 Rescue Mission Begins 25:25 Second Rescue Attempt 27:53 Bird's Return and Recovery 30:36 Legacy and Impact 33:18 Epilogue and Final Thoughts Email us! thecruxsurvival@gmail.com Instagram https://www.instagram.com/thecruxpodcast/ Get schooled by Julie in outdoor wilderness medicine! https://www.headwatersfieldmedicine.com/ Primary Sources Byrd, Richard E. (1938). Alone. G.P. Putnam's Sons. [Byrd's personal memoir of his five months at Advance Base] Byrd, Richard E. (1935). Discovery: The Story of the Second Byrd Antarctic Expedition. G.P. Putnam's Sons. Byrd, Richard E. (1930). Little America: Aerial Exploration in the Antarctic, The Flight to the South Pole. G.P. Putnam's Sons. Poulter, Thomas C. (1935). "The Advance Base Rescue." Proceedings of the American Philosophical Society, 79(4), 593-609. [First-hand account of the rescue mission by Dr. Poulter] Byrd Antarctic Expedition Papers, 1925-1938. Ohio State University Archives & Special Collections. [Includes original journals, logbooks, and correspondence] Secondary Sources Hoyt, Edwin P. (1968). The Last Explorer: The Adventures of Admiral Byrd. John Day Company. Rose, Lisle A. (2008). Explorer: The Life of Richard E. Byrd. University of Missouri Press. Goerler, Raimund E. (1998). To the Pole: The Diary and Notebook of Richard E. Byrd, 1925-1927. Ohio State University Press. Beekman, Daniel (2014). "The Worst Journey in the World: Admiral Richard E. Byrd's Lonely Antarctic Winter." Weatherwise, 67(5), 18-25. Murphy, David Thomas (2002). German Exploration of the Polar World: A History, 1870-1940. University of Nebraska Press. [Provides context for international polar exploration] Darack, Ed (2011). "Against the Cold: Admiral Byrd's Dangerous Antarctic Winter." Alpinist, 13, 54-61. Demas, Coleen (2016). "Searching for Admiral Byrd's Antarctic Advance Base." Antarctic Sun, National Science Foundation. [Information on the 2016 search for the Advance Base] Johnson, Charles W. (1971). Antarctica: First Person Accounts. Dodd, Mead & Company. Pyne, Stephen J. (1986). The Ice: A Journey to Antarctica. University of Washington Press. [Contextual information on Antarctic exploration] Sullivan, Walter (1957). Quest for a Continent: The Story of Antarctic Exploration by the Men Who Did It. McGraw-Hill.
Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider. Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer. Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley's classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose. In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan's Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing. In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more. This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Photos of Basi Zangerl by Jacopo Larcher and Jonathan Faeth Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine
Show Notes:Angela's Links:https://alpinist007.com/ (personal website)Angela Hawse takes helm of American Mountain Guides Association board as group leans on women to foster change in guiding cultureEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Angela Hawse.Angela was the 6th woman in the U.S. to become an IFMGA mountain guide with a successful career spanning over three decades. She's trained and examined aspiring guides for the AMGA for the past 19 years and served as the AMGA president for five. Angela's led over 30 high altitude mountaineering expeditions to the world's Greater Ranges and guided remote trips to the Arctic and Antarctic. She skied from Sweden to Norway across Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (500' higher than K2) and has led numerous technical all-women's ascents.She's currently on the board of the IFMGA and the 1st woman and non-European to join the Technical Commission. Angela has a Master's Degree in International Mountain Conservation, is on the POW Alliance Team and a Black Diamond athlete. In 2011 she was awarded AMGA Guide of the Year and in 2022 received the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.I love that she considers herself successful in mountain guiding because she still loves the profession and is still in it for the same reason that she got into it initially. She established a lifelong love of playing in the mountains since she was a kid. Her curiosity let her explore all facets of life related to guiding, and she hardly found boredom. We talked about dealing with burnout, giving back to the communities, her AMGA work, changes in the environment and the industry in the past 30+ years, and making a guide career sustainable. I'm super inspired by all the wisdom Angela brought in. Now please enjoy this episode with Angela Hawse.Things We Talked about:Has been guiding for 3.5 decades and still going strongAngele's special sauce to keep her in the industry for this longStay curiousDiversifyMental bandwidthChildhoodPrescott college and first role modelWas a dedicated climber for many many years before thinking about guidingVarious jobs from Outward Bound, an adjunct position in Prescott, working for different guide services so on and so forthExpeditions and giving backAll women's expeditionsWhat was is like being one of few female guides back then?Ways to develop confidenceAMGA president – what happened during those yearsAMGA's DEI workAngela deeply cares about climate changeTrends and changes Angela saw in the past 3.5 decades in the mountains and in the industryBeing a guide in the US full timeWhat does Angela's work consist of now?Alpinist 007
Hanspeter Eisendle hat in seinem Leben schon viel gesehen. Einsame Berge, schwierige Wände und fremde Kulturen. Der Bergsteiger und Alpinist ist ein Mensch, der oft und gerne darüber nachdenkt, was ihn bewegt und antreibt. Seit seiner Kindheit entdeckt der Südtiroler die Welt der Berge mit besonderer Neugier und Achtsamkeit. Sich den Gesetzen der Natur zu unterwerfen, ist für ihn kein Problem.
Rob Shaul and MTI Athlete Derrick, an active duty Air Force Officer based in Santiago, Chile, discuss Derrick's recent experiences with fitness assessments, particularly the Alpinist fitness assessment and the V-SUM for rock climbing. They explore Derrick's training progress, the outdoor culture in Chile, and the impact of military service on outdoor activities. The discussion also touches on leadership lessons learned from outdoor experiences and Derrick's future aspirations in outdoor sports. Takeaways Derrick recently took the Alpinist fitness assessment and found it challenging. He has been focusing on endurance training to improve his aerobic base. Derrick enjoys the new training program and has seen improvements in his performance. The V-SUM has helped Derrick enhance his rock climbing skills significantly. Outdoor culture in Chile is vibrant, with many opportunities for mountain sports. Derrick has had mostly positive military assignments that allowed him to pursue outdoor activities. He reflects on the importance of location in shaping outdoor experiences during his military career. Leadership lessons from outdoor adventures, such as those from Shackleton, are valuable. Derrick is considering future opportunities in outdoor sports after his military career. He appreciates the balance between military service and personal passions. ----more---- Mountain Tactical Institute Home Check out the MTI Athlete Team Apply to be a Paid MTI Athlete MTI's Daily Programming Streams If you enjoyed this episode, please leave a review and subscribe for more conversations with leaders in strength, conditioning, and mountain sports!
Today I have a truly groundbreaking story from one of my previous show guests Nathan Longhurst. Last time I spoke with Nathan, he was fresh off his solo ascent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali and making waves in the climbing community. At the time, he had also just discovered his next passion—paragliding. I remember joking back then, hoping he wouldn't get hurt as he dove headfirst into this new pursuit. But just a few weeks later, he crashed—breaking his pelvis.Since then, Nathan has pushed even further in fulfilling his vision of merging the sports of solo alpinism and flight. Becoming a leading pioneer in a budding new style of alpinism. His latest project in New Zealand involves linking together 100 technical alpine peaks not just by climbing them, but also flying between them. His goal? To Successfully summit all of “New Zealand's 100 Greatest Peaks”. A curated list of New Zealand's 100 most iconic mountains that had only ever been climbed by one man Don French —a journey that took him nearly 34 years to accomplish. However, on February 27th 2025 Nathan managed to complete the entire objective in a staggering 103 days. revolutionizing what's possible in mountain travel by blending the skills of an alpinist and a foil pilot.But this wasn't just a smooth, picturesque journey through the mountains. Along the way, Nathan battled snow blindness after losing his sunglasses, survived loose rock fall that nearly ended his entire mission, and had to manage the terrifying reality of flying on a damaged wing after a failed launch high up on a rocky ridge. Every decision mattered, and with each new challenge, he was forced to recalibrate his limits, balancing the thrill of the unknown with the ever-present dangers of both the air and the mountains.This conversation goes deep. We talk about the mental and physical challenges of combining two of the most committing mountain disciplines, how his perception of risk evolved after cheating death during a crash landing due to catastrophic canopy failure…, and the logistical puzzles of executing a cutting edge project that has just simply never been done before. At the point of releasing this conversation Nathan has yet to speak with anyone about the intimate details of his experience ... .and I am honored to share his story…So nowI bring you 3 hrs of Nathan Longhurst.----HELP KEEP THIS PODCAST AD FREE! | For a little as $3/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesNathan's IGNew Zealand's 100 Greatest Peaks List
Na podelitvi najuspešnejšim alpinistom smo pred mikrofon povabili Anjo Petek in Alešem Česnom, naj alpinistko oz. naj alpinista 2024. Nadaljevali smo z nagrajenimi filmi 19. festivala gorniškega filma in pogledom v spremljevalni program, v katerem so nastopile tudi Mojstranške veverice. Pred koncem oziroma začetkom zimskih počitnic smo poiskali še dober namig za družinski izlet.
Jost Kobusch is just back from Everest, where he is doing a multi-year project to climb the tallest mountain in the world... by himself... without oxygen... up the incredibly difficult West Ridge route in the middle of winter. In winter, the effective altitude of Everest is over 9,000 meters, and the winds can reach 250 km/hour (155 mph). And - on top of that - the mountain was hit by a powerful earthquake while he was on it. Find out... How Jost Kobusch optimises his training The relative importance of physical vs mental attributes in extreme sport How he overcame a potentially career-ending injury The dichotomy of fitness vs experience for maximum performance What it's like to be a full-time athlete Jost's best advice for someone who is considering an Everest climb! And more Check out Jost's Altitude Academy https://jostkobusch.de/en/akademie/ and/or follow him on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/jostkobusch Finally, if you've read down this far, you must like adventure stories, so check out my new book, "Perseverance, Live and Death in the Subarctic" available everywhere you can get books, including https://www.amazon.com/Perseverance-Death-Subarctic-Stephan-Kesting/dp/1639368612/ Please share this episode with somone who you think will like it! Cheers, Stephan Kesting
Bill Amos is the Founder & CEO of NW Alpine based in Salem, Oregon. NW Alpine has been producing technical outdoor apparel in the US since 2010. For many of those years, NW Alpine produced everything in-house and was the contract manufacturer for several other brands.Here are a few of the topics covered in this episode:How alpinism prepared him for entrepreneurship Starting a USA-made brand in response to the 2008 financial crisisLessons learned from starting, growing and eventually closing a factoryWhy manufacturing in the US is critical for the future of the economyLearn more about NW Alpine and see their gear: NW AlpineLearn more about KORE: KORE OutdoorsConnect with Bill on LinkedIn: Bill AmosConnect with Christian on LinkedIn: Christian RawlesWant to get in touch? Send an email: christian@koreoutdoors.org
If you see influencers who seem better than you, it's not because they're trying harder or better people. They're just wired differently than you are. Jen shares the big secret to feeling truly content about who you are. She and Katlyn choose saints and words for the year. And learn how to pronounce “Alpinist.” EMAIL LIST: Join Jen's email list! Here is Nicole Sachs' podcast, which Jen probably references in this episode. PATREON: Get bonus content + access to Jen's tell-all “State of the Dumpster Fire” chats on Jen's Patreon PHONE WALLPAPER: Get phone wallpaper / lock screens here UPCOMING SHOWS - NEW MATERIAL! 3/11 - BUFFALO 3/12 - ROYAL OAK 3/13 - COLUMBUS JEN'S NEW COMEDY SPECIAL: Like and leave a comment on Jen's YouTube comedy special! MERCH: Get Village Hustle and other Jen merch here! YOUTUBE: Follow Jen's Youtube channel, where you can watch full podcast episodes and standup clips
Der Tiroler Hermann Buhl ist eine Bergsteigerlegende. Er ist der erste Mensch, der zwei Achttausender erstbestiegen hat, dazuviele der schwierigsten Routen der Alpen seiner Zeit. Doch was bleibt von Hermann Buhl außer seinen übermenschlichen Leistungen?
Today, we continue our conversation with the legendary Paul Ramsden. If you missed Part 1, hit pause and go back to the last episode—it's essential listening. In this episode, we pick up with the second of Paul's FIVE Piolet d'Or-winning climbs: The Prow of Shiva. From there, we journey through each climb, exploring the lessons, challenges, and reflections that have shaped his remarkable career. We close with Paul's insights on life, climbing philosophy, and advice for anyone daring to follow in his path.As we wrap up this incredible conversation, I want to send a huge thank you to Paul for trusting me to share his story. If this episode resonated with you, don't hesitate to reach out—I'll gladly pass along your messages to him. ----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---Piolets d'Or Award Winning Climbs#1 North Face of Siguniang, China (2003) w/ Mick Fowler#2 Prow of Shiva, India (2013) w/ Mick Fowler#3 Gave Ding, Nepal (2016) w/ Mick Fowler#4 North Buttress of Nyainqentangla South East, Tibet (2016) w/ Nick Bullock#5 Phantom Line on Jugal Spire, Nepal (2023) w/ Tim Miller
Schroffe Gipfel, klare Luft, blühende Almwiesen und nahezu endlose Möglichkeiten für Abenteuer – die Berge ziehen uns in ihren Bann. So auch die beiden Gäste dieser Weltwach-Folge: Hanspeter Eisendle und Heidi Messner. Hanspeter Eisendle arbeitet seit 1982 als Bergführer, nahm an zahlreichen Himalaya-Expeditionen teil, darunter mit Reinhold Messner, und zählt zu den besten Kletterern der Dolomiten mit Erstbegehungen und Sportkletterrouten bis zum 10. Schwierigkeitsgrad.Heidi Messner, bekannt als „Heidi from the Mountains,“ ist in den Alpen aufgewachsen und begeistert als Influencerin und leidenschaftliche Bergsportlerin eine große Community auf Instagram und ihrem Blog für das Leben in den Bergen. Dort teilt sie ihre Erlebnisse, Eindrücke und Entdeckungen und motiviert andere, selbst aufzubrechen und die Berge zu erkunden. Obwohl die beiden aus unterschiedlichen Generationen stammen und als Influencerin und Alpinist verschiedene Perspektiven auf die Bergwelt haben, verbindet sie eine tiefe Leidenschaft zu den Bergen und ihrer Heimat Südtirol sowie die Verantwortung, diese weiterzugeben. In dieser Weltwach-Folge sprechen wir mit ihnen über ihre individuellen Erfahrungen in den Bergen, ihre unterschiedlichen Herangehensweisen an die Bergwelt durch ihre Arbeit, die Veränderungen im Bergsport und die Einflüsse, die der Klimawandel, Social Media, Kommerzialisierung und Massentourismus auf das Leben in den Bergen haben. Redaktion & Postproduktion: Miriam Menz WERBUNGDiese Episode entstand mit Unterstützung der Südtiroler Bergsportmarke Salewa, der wir bei dieser Gelegenheit danken möchten. Informationen gibt es auf www.salewa.com. Dieser Podcast wird auch durch unsere Hörerschaft ermöglicht. Wenn du gern zuhörst, kannst du dazu beitragen, dass unsere Show auch weiterhin besteht und regelmäßig erscheint. Zum Dank erhältst du Zugriff auf unseren werbefreien Feed und auf unsere Bonusfolgen. Diese Möglichkeiten zur Unterstützung bestehen:Weltwach Supporters Club bei Steady. Du kannst ihn auch direkt über Spotify ansteuern. Alternativ kannst du bei Apple Podcasts UnterstützerIn werden.WERBEPARTNERhttps://linktr.ee/weltwachSTAY IN TOUCH:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/weltwach/LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/weltwach/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Weltwach/YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/WELTWACHNewsletter: https://weltwach.de/newsletter/ Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
The events of one the most famous Everest stories took place a century ago, when George Mallory and Sandy Irvine disappeared during the 1924 British Mount Everest expedition. A hundred years later, a group of writers is shedding light on the many different people and worlds that have, throughout history, had an important connection to the mountain. In sixteen different essays: Other Everests: One Mountain, Many Worlds tells stories from new perspectives—of people and things that have long been overlooked. Editors Jonathan Westaway and Peter Hansen joined the Alpinist Podcast to discuss why they embarked on this project. And Sarah Pickman, who wrote one of the pieces in the Other Everests collection, discussed what we can learn from what gear and equipment was brought along on expeditions. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from Patagonia. Following our conversation with the Other Everests contributors, you can listen to Patagonia Ambassador Colin Haley chat with host Abbey Collins about his passion for innovation and product development, and in particular his role in developing the new M10 Storm pants. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Book: Other Everests: One Mountain, Many Worlds Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Today, I'm beyond excited to share a truly rare and special opportunity: a conversation with UK climbing legend Paul Ramsden. The Piolets d'Or—often called the Oscars of mountaineering—is the highest honor in alpine climbing, awarded to only those who demonstrate the pinnacle of style and commitment in the mountains. With past recipients like David Lama, Mick Fowler, and Hayden Kennedy, the award emphasizes ascents done in ‘alpine style'—no bolts, no portaledges, no siege tactics. Just you, your partner, and what you can carry on your back as you tackle an unclimbed wall on an unclimbed mountain. And Paul Ramsden? He holds five Piolets d'Or—the most of any climber in history.For Paul, style isn't just about the ethics—it's the heart of his climbing philosophy. His unwavering commitment to ‘alpine style' is how he authentically experiences the mountains. It's a pure test of his ability to move efficiently, confidently, and quickly over technical terrain in extreme high-altitude environments.What makes Paul even more unique is his aversion to the spotlight. Despite his unparalleled achievements, he has stayed largely out of the public eye. Beyond the write-ups he and his partners have contributed to the American Alpine Journal, there's almost no available information about him. In fact, this might very well be the first time Paul has spoken openly about his life, his climbs, and his distinct approach to the climbing world. It's truly an honor to have the chance to share his story.This conversation is split into two parts. In Part I, we'll get to know Paul—where he came from, what shaped him, and how he became the climber he is today. Then in Part II, we'll dive into the specifics of each of the five individual climbs that earned him the Piolets d'Or. So, get ready for 2 and a half hours of stories, lessons, insights, and life lessons with the legendary Paul Ramsden.----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesGOOGLE Paul Ramsden
Viseti iz par tisoč metrov višine, zreti v prepad, pa še zebe te. Dokler se nisem pogovarjala z Gregorjem, radosti v tem nisem prepoznala. Pa je tako strasten do raziskovanja svojih sposobnosti, da bo navdušil še marsikoga izmed vas! 25 jih ima, pa je že bil na odpravah z enimi od boljših slovenskih alpinistov - v Himalaji, Patagoniji in v Maroku. Kako je na gori? A na vrhu doživiš nirvano? Se je s svojo punco že pogovarjal o smrti? Kaj daš v nahrbtnik, ko te ne bo 1 mesec? Kaj ješ in kako spiš v snegu? Zakaj ga vrhovi ne zanimajo pretirano in kako začeti z alpinizmom?
I have novels. You can get them here.Michelle DowdWe look at faith and its impact on marketing. Spoiler: what you believe informs everything you do, and marketing is about translating what you believe into what other people do about you.Michelle Dowd is a journalism professor and contributor to The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, TIME magazine, Alpinist, and other national publications. She was raised on a mountain in the Angeles National Forest where she learned to identify flora and fauna, navigate by the stars, forage for edible plants, and care for the earth. Her memoir, Forager: Field Notes on Surviving a Family Cult, showcases her life growing up on an isolated mountain in California as part of an apocalyptic cult, and how she found her way out of poverty and illness by drawing on the gifts of the wilderness.Follow her journey here on Substack at Forager Fridays.Is AMMO Write For You?If you're an author with a handful of books published (or you've published nonfiction and have one book with a great program to help clients), AMMO is unlike any other program on the market. You're going to have to work the program to find success, and bestseller status likely won't hit in weeks of joining the program, but for many authors, AMMO is the beginning of a lucrative career that puts books first. Learn more here.THIS IS THE LINK TO MY SUBSTACK if you're listening elsewhere.TRBM is a listener-supported publication. To receive new posts and support my podcast, consider becoming a free or paid subscriber. Get full access to Becoming A Household Name at jodyjsperling.substack.com/subscribe
Alpinist and award winning author, Michael Schauch shares about a mixed artist collaborative journey into the remote mountains of Nepal, a book he wrote about the experience, and reflections upon the anniversary of its release. Find out more about Michael and his book “A Story of Karma,” on his website. Follow him on Instagram to see some of his epic mountain adventures. Listen to Michael speak live at The Squamish Public Library on Dec. 3rd, from 6:30-8pm. Share you thoughts on this episode in the Write Songs You Love Facebook Community group. For more songwriting prompts, challenges, good thoughtful fun, and to become a paid subscriber with awesome bonuses, check out the Write Songs You Love Newsletter at https://writesongsyoulove.substack.com.
Gabby sits down with Swedish professional rock climber, YouTuber, and coach, Emil Abrahamsson. Known for his unique approach to climbing and his deep connection to the sport, Emil shares the nuances of rock climbing, competition climbing, and how he navigates the mental and physical challenges of climbing projects. From his experience on the World Cup climbing circuit to his switch to full-time outdoor rock climbing, Emil offers valuable insights into the mindset of a climber, the importance of failure, and how the sport has shaped his life both on and off the rock. Sponsors: Tushy: Over 2 million butts love TUSHY. Get 10% off Tushy with the code GABBY at https://hellotushy.com/GABBY! #tushypod Maui Nui: Get 20% off your first order of fresh venison, jerky, broth, and ‘ohana subscription by going to www.MauiNuiVenison.com/GABBY and using the code GABBY at checkout. Jenni Kayne: Find your forever pieces @jennikayne and get 15% off with promo code REECE15 at jennikayne.com/REECE15! #jennikaynepartner Timeline for the Episode: Introduction to Emil Abrahamsson and the World of Modern Climbing Gabby introduces Emil and provides background on his unique blend of competition climbing, outdoor climbing, and storytelling through his YouTube channel. Emil explains how modern climbing has evolved with films like Free Solo and The Alpinist, and how the sport has become more mainstream. Climbing for Problem Solvers: The Mental Game of Climbing [00:00:00 - 00:10:00] Emil explains how climbing is often compared to solving a puzzle, both mentally and physically. He talks about how his background as a "gamer kid" transitioned into a passion for climbing, as both activities share the problem-solving aspect that hooked him into the sport. Navigating Competitions and the Rock vs. Wall Debate [00:10:01 - 00:25:00] Gabby and Emil discuss the differences between competition climbing, which often includes parkour-style movements to engage audiences, and real rock climbing. Emil also talks about how competition climbing evolved, especially after its introduction to the Olympics in 2020. Balancing Passion, Performance, and Personal Climbing Goals [00:25:01 - 00:45:00] Emil talks about his decision to step away from the World Cup climbing circuit to focus more on rock climbing and storytelling through his YouTube channel. He shares how living a minimalist "dirtbag" lifestyle helped him follow his passion and embrace the freedom that comes with it. Building Mental Resilience Through Failure [00:45:01 - 01:00:00] Climbing is a sport where failure is more common than success. Emil delves into how he has built mental resilience by embracing failure as part of the process, both in climbing and life. He shares how the mental toughness he gained from climbing has influenced other areas of his life. Projecting and the Long-Term Pursuit of Goals [01:00:01 - 01:15:00] Emil discusses the concept of "projecting" in climbing—working on difficult climbs over months or even years. He shares the psychological and emotional journey of tackling long-term climbing projects and the immense satisfaction that comes when you finally complete a climb. Transitioning from Climbing Competitions to Content Creation [01:15:01 - 01:30:00] Gabby and Emil talk about how YouTube and content creation have allowed Emil to share his climbing journey with a wider audience. He reflects on how the storytelling element of his career has become just as important as the climbs themselves. Check out Emil Abrahamsson's YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@EmilAbrahamsson Everything Gabby Reece: YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@GabbyReece Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/gabbyreece/ TikTok: https://www.tiktok.com/@gabbyreeceofficial Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/OfficialGabrielleReece/ Gabby Reece Website - https://gabriellereece.com/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Alpinist and photographer Cory Richards was living at full speed. A steady stream of Himalayan expeditions and assignments from National Geographic kept him relentlessly moving around the world. Meanwhile, his long struggle with bi-polar disorder, PTSD, alcoholism, and sex addiction hit new lows until Cory's world came undone. Today, Cory's stepped away from both climbing and photography, has written two books and in a lot of ways, is happier than he's ever been. Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Altitude Climbing Enroll in Hazel's brand new course to overcome fear of falling and lean more about the 7 signs of fear ato altitudeclimbing.com/climbinggold. Henson Shaving Use link and enter CLIMBINGGOLD at checkout to get 100 free blades with your purchase. (Note: you must add both the 100-blade pack and the razor for the discount to apply.). LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart. Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube
本期节目与《比山更高》作者宋明蔚,聊聊自由攀登中的爱与自由、浪漫与理性、死亡与纯粹。【嘉宾】宋明蔚记者、非虚构写作者高海拔攀登者,曾任《户外探险》执行主编【你将会听到】06:38 登山为什么迷人?阿尔卑斯式vs珠穆朗玛式17:05 人类与山:从恐惧高山到迷恋高山22:30 天才与怪咖——严冬冬的自由与死亡34:12 当代中国人还在学习如何消化死亡37:30 尘封的梅里雪山山难42:30 极致浪漫又极致理性45:40 享受痛苦的艺术50:30 登山者都是存在主义者55:30 从恐惧中感受敬畏和幸福58:30 运动中的心流:滑雪、攀岩中的律动62:20 登山与禅宗,莫向外求69:30 与嬉皮士文化的渊源74:12 因为蒙昧,所以是黄金年代78:30 不需要展示的生活是纯粹的81:00 贫穷、快乐、充实而满足87:12 用诗意拯救单向度的生活92:10 煽情泛滥,更需要克制的文本【参考资料】书籍宋明蔚《比山更高:自由攀登者的悲情与荣耀》罗伯特·麦克法伦《念念远山》《深时之旅》小林尚礼《梅里雪山 : 寻找十七位友人》乔·辛普森《无情之地 : 冰峰168小时》纪录片徒手攀岩 Free Solo (2018)登山家 The Alpinist (2021)【项目找人】需求:短期提升英语能力介绍&课程:温老师英语1v1课程英语辅导专家、国家执业翻译、独创闪词教学法从事教学工作近10年,曾任复旦大学留学生班全英文授课教师擅长考研雅思托福补弱&冲高、0基础快速提分“只做1对1,因为只有1对1才真正有效!”福利&联系:免费获得市场价500元的一对一课程,英语学习问题诊断及指导一次添加vx小助手fudanwenrouge ,回复咸柠七,预约领取课程费用根据需求不同在5k-25k区间,学员可按需选购,咸柠七听友享9折优惠【会员计划】欢迎赞助咸柠七会员通讯,登陆爱发电官网,搜索咸柠七,每月7元,年付or月付都可你的支持,是我创作的最大动力!付费会员将获得如下权益:-参加线下聚会,获得周边纪念品-获得每月的会员通讯,收听额外放送目前已更新的专栏:人生路口:聚焦于职业、身份、认同转变的关键期,来听听过来人那些“多么痛的领悟”。吴哥游记:小曹在吴哥窟的身心灵路程每月加更:正片节目的pro版制作 曹福楼配乐 Eddie Vedder - Society
Michelle Dowd is a journalism professor and contributor to The New York Times, The Los Angeles Times, TIME magazine, Alpinist, and other national publications. She was raised on a mountain in the Angeles National Forest where she learned to identify flora and fauna, navigate by the stars, forage for edible plants, and care for the earth. Her memoir, Forager: Field Notes on Surviving a Family Cult, showcases her life growing up on an isolated mountain in California as part of an apocalyptic cult, and how she found her way out of poverty and illness by drawing on the gifts of the wilderness. Connect with us: https://freedompact.co.uk/newsletter (Healthy, Wealthy & Wise Newsletter) twitter.com/freedompactpod Email: freedompact@gmail.com https://Tiktok.com/personaldevelopment Connect with Michelle: https://mdowd.substack.com/ https://www.michelledowd.org/ Find the book here: https://www.amazon.com/dp/1643755773?ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_dp_N5YH96GYNS595Y3TYVG2
Matt Samet is a legend of the climbing magazine world, having worked for Climbing, Rock & Ice and Alpinist as an editor, writer and general voice of credibility. Not everyone in the industry is core to the climbing lifestyle, but Matt definitely is. He loves this. In this episode we discuss the role of the magazines then and now, the demise of print, my and others criticism of the magazines and the short comings of the media, even in it's heyday. Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub
A student struggling with his practice once asked the zen master Shunryu Suzuki to boil down Buddhism into a single phrase. Suzuki thought for a moment, then he responded: everything changes. This is part two of my conversation with Cory Richards about his memoir, The Color of Everything. Cory is bipolar and at different moments in his life he has been famous, homeless, institutionalized and an addict. He has climbed Mount Everest without supplemental oxygen, he won the National Geographic Adventurer of the Year award and he has traveled the planet adventuring and shooting for Nat Geo. Then he started over as a writer. Healthy, sick, good, bad, rich, poor, famous, homeless. Everything changes. A great book is one you can't put down that you miss when it's over. The Color of Everything is such a book and I highly recommend reading it. This episode is brought to you by The Better Lab. Good sleep amplifies health, wellness and performance. Getting good sleep can be hard and many people struggle to consistently take the actions that support solid sleep. That's why I co-founded The Better Lab, the app that helps active people like you to mindfully build conscious, science-backed practices to sleep better that stick. It's just what works to help you get great sleep and you can get started today at www.thebetterlab.io and the app is live in the Apple App Store. Check it out and send a DM to @hardwaypod to let me know what you think. Choose the Hard Way is the podcast about how hard things build stronger humans who have more fun. The purpose of this podcast is not for you to envy, admire or imitate the stories people like Cory share here. This podcast is here to hopefully inspire and empower you to fully embrace being the writer of your own story. It's a great one, you're the author and you bring it into being every moment. Find Cory @coryrichards on Instagram and pre-order The Color of Everything here. Watch on YouTube Sign up for the Hard Way Newsletter- - - - - - - - - - Choose The Hard Way Website | Instagram Andrew Vontz LinkedIn
Simone Moro has been involved in some extraordinary missions over the years through his high-altitude mountaineering career, and as a helicopter pilot.
Michelle Dowd was born into an ultra-religious cult, “The Field,” started in the 1930s by her grandfather, who convinced generations of young male followers that he would live five hundred years and ascend to the heavens when doomsday came. Michelle Dowd is a professor of journalism at Chaffey College and contributor to The New York Times, Alpinist, The Los Angeles Book Review, Catapult, OnlySky, and other national publications. She founded The Chaffey Review, an award-winning literary journal, advises student media, teaches poetry and critical thinking in the California State prisons, and has been recognized as a Longreads Top 5 for The Thing with Feathers, on the relationship between environmentalism and hope. Her memoir is Forager: Field Notes for Surviving a Family Cult.
Six years ago, Hannah Hoetmer had zero climbing experience and could barely run a mile. But here she is now, a professional alpinist for The North Face. Of course, with all that is life, her journey has not been without challenges, but certainly, her story is a nudge to taking risks and finding purpose in life. Hannah is involved in her own adventure goals but also deeply invested in the success of others and breaking down barriers in the climbing world by providing accessible training, resources, and support for climbers with diverse needs. She is also a big champion for women achieving their dreams and is endeavoring to complete a project she calls 30 before 30, which is to mentor 30 women before she turns 30 next year. This is an inspiring conversation for those on the edge of making shifts and taking risks, please share this episode with your community and let the trickle effect commence. Thank you so much for tuning in and supporting the YogiTriathlete podcast since 2016, one of the OG podcasts of the endurance sports world. If you enjoy the show, please leave a review on your favorite place to listen to it. You can also support the commercial-free nature of the YTP and Awake Athlete podcasts by joining one of our paid tiers on Patreon. In this episode: - The Infinity Loop - Venturing into the unknown - Summiting the volcano - Inspiration and vision behind 30 under 30 - Alaska experience as a glacier guide - Assisting women in overcoming the obstacles to their success - Defining what is successful to you - What are the qualities that help you achieve a dream - Contrast is good for personal growth - Working with North Face - Climbing 14'ers on limited experience but firm belief - Not everything needs to make sense on paper - What if what you're doing now is worst case scenario - Just do something when faced with fear and doubt
Welcome back to part two of our chat with James Barrow! In our last episode, we heard about James' journey as a climber and what events ultimately lead to his most recent achievement: The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. A link up that covers 20 distinct peaks, and 18.5k of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts upon runouts, canyoneering, bushwacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and an abundance of massive full 70m rappels using a fiddle stick. At 5.9+R/M2R. Nothing of this length or technical difficulty has been done in Zion in over 20 years. Today, we're diving into a step-by-step trip report. We'll cover the major milestones, close calls, and all the intricate details of this massive desert alpine link up.If you haven't already, I highly recommend doing a bit of homework on The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse. Check out the resources in the show notes to get a sense of the massive scale and seriousness of this objective.I'll keep this intro brief since we've got a lot to cover. So, without further ado, let's jump back into our conversation with James Barrow.----Don't forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out, just like James did. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesJames Barrow's IGThe Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse
When you hear "Zion National Park," what comes to mind? The Narrows, Moonlight Buttress, and some of the most stunning sandstone cliffs and peaks you'll ever see, all packed into a canyon visited by over five million people each year. But what about the possibilities beyond the main canyon, beyond the classic hikes and climbs?Today, we're chatting with James Barrow. He's a father, climber, and electrician by trade. James quickly developed a knack for climbing, finding himself leading sport climbs in the 5.12+ range in under six months. But, after rushing his progression, he seriously injured his tendons, which pushed him to find a new kind of challenge. That's when he turned to adventure climbing.James fell in love with exploring the uncharted, runout, loose, and complicated sandstone peaks and plateaus surrounding the main area of Zion National Park. His latest achievement? The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse—a feat that covers 20 distinct peaks, with 18,500 feet of elevation gain over 28 miles. The terrain involves runouts, canyoneering, bushwhacking, steep snow travel, soloing, and massive 70-meter rappels using a fiddlestick. The climb, rated 5.9+R/M2R, is one of the most challenging and technical routes done in Zion in the last 20 years.I can't emphasize enough the magnitude of what James and his partner accomplished. After our conversation, he walked me through his route on Google Earth. The complexity of route-finding, the massive scale, and the varied conditions of rock, snow, and thick bushes left me amazed.We've split this conversation into two parts. Today, we'll hear about the events that led James to set his sights on this massive sandstone alpine linkup, and essentially shape him as a climber. This will help us understand him better when he tells the full story of "The Complete Towers of the Virgin Traverse" in part two. We'll talk about his rapid progression to 5.12+, how he found adventure climbing, his view on risk, and what he did to prepare for this big linkup.ResourcesJames' InstagramLocal News
We are thrilled to release the first episode of our new series, Voice of the Mountains. Hosted by legendary climber Steve House, the first episode welcomes Barry Blanchard. He hardly needs an introduction, but Barry is an Alpinist, a mountain guide, a father, a mentor and a dear friend to many. Barry and Steve explore the connection of Barry's childhood and his foundation and desire to be a mountain climber. From Barry's Metis heritage, to his connection with the mountains and those that challenges themselves within their grace, the two cover a wide array of their experiences and what it means to live a life in the mountains. This is the first in the Voice of the Mountains series as the podcast explores a range of ideas with the hope of building a philosophy of the mountains.You can learn more about Barry's climbing here. Also you can purchase Barry's book at this link. Write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com or visit us at uphillathlete.com/voiceofthemountains
When Jamie Logan and Mugs Stump first ascended Mount Robson's Emperor Face in July 1978, it was hailed as one of North America's greatest alpine climbs. Since then, the face has continued luring some of the world's best climbers, maintaining it's reputation as one of North America's most enduring alpine walls.Written and produced by Evan PhillipsMusic by Evan PhillipsAdditional music curated using Artlist. Artists include:Andrew WordT AscoYehezkel RazMarshall UsingerEvert ZSteven BeddallSupport The Firn Line:PatreonMerchMusicSponsors:The Hoarding MarmotAlaska Rock Gym
Philip welcomes Will Cockrell climber/author to The Deep Dive to discuss how book Everest Inc. In their conversation, they explore the sometimes harsh realities behind the growing climbing industry and how Mt. Everest in particular has become the epicenter of the global climbing rush. The Drop – The segment of the show where Philip and his guest share tasty morsels of intellectual goodness and creative musings. Philip's Drop: (Constellation (AppleTV+))[https://www.imdb.com/title/tt19395018/] Will's Drop: (Free Solo (Disney+))https://films.nationalgeographic.com/free-solo (The Alpinist)https://www.imdb.com/title/tt11790780/ (Sherpa (Amazon Prime))https://www.imdb.com/title/tt3746250/ (Fourteen Peaks (Netflix))[ https://www.imdb.com/title/tt14079374/] Special Guest: Will Cockrell.
Brette Harrington is an American professional rock climber and alpinist based in Lake Tahoe, California and British Columbia, Canada. She was featured in the 2021 film The Alpinist alongside her late partner, Marc-André Leclerc., who died while climbing from an unexpected avalanche. She is best known for the first free solo of the 760 meter (2,500-foot) Chiaro di Luna (5.11a) in Patagonia, for her development of new alpine climbing routes, and as the star of Brette, a Reel Rock Film Tourshort film. Harrington's long-time partner, fellow alpinist Marc-André Leclerc, was confirmed dead after going missing during a climbing expedition near Juneau, Alaska in March 2018. Following Leclerc's death, Harrington devoted two years to working on alpine routes. She spent the first year processing Leclerc's death while she "was deep in the mountains". Harrington dedicated her May 2018 Mount Blane route to Leclerc, writing: "We have named it Life Compass for a number of reasons. Primarily because my life has taken such a sudden 180-degree turn since the loss of Marc in March and alpine climbing has been my guide. I dedicate this climb to my climbing mentor, partner, and love Marc-Andre who would probably solo it the following day if he was here." Sara and Brette talk about mountain and rock climbing and it's paradigm for life and it's highs and lows, going forward boldly, doing what you love, learning to live with peace and zen along with the tragedies and sacrifices. Brette continues, even after losing her great love, Marc-Andre to the mountains, and shares her passion that stays alive within her. The Alpinist documentary can be seen on Netflix, Prime Video, Redbox., Vudu or Apple TV on your Roku device. Website: www.saraschultingkranz.com Social Media: IG: https://www.instagram.com/saraschultingkranz/ YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/@saraschultingkranz./about Sponsor: Go to www.saraschultingkranz.com and use the code Live Boldly at checkout to get the special price of $39 for programs offered. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
It's a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he's built a career on that foundation.You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He's spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine Journal, co-founded Alpinist — which Reinhold Messner once called “the greatest climbing magazine in the world” — and recently started a “hardcore history” podcast about the 10th Mountain Division called Ninety-Pound Rucksack.If you haven't heard of it, you might be living under the rock… but since you're listening to a climbing podcast, that very well may be the case. Regardless, it's great and I encourage you to give it a listen.In this episode, we don't talk much about the podcast, instead, we hone in on:How to complicate seemingly simple projects by going deepClues to find the narrative in anything you doWhat can happen when you follow your curiosity Timestamps:05:18 - From New England to the Tetons14:45 - Building community through climbing22:38 - Narrative as a tool for connection and change27:25 - Exploring the awe 34:20 - Diving into the contribution of climbers on the 10th Mountain Division42:28 - How history is written47:56 - Climbing Riva Ridge to understand history Resources and links:To listen to Ninety-Pound Rucksack, head to your favorite podcast platform or learn more about it at christianbeckwith.com. If you love what Christian is doing and want to support longform narrative projects like this, I highly encourage you to become a patron at patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack. Find the rest of the notes on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Christian.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:That's it for Season 1! If you enjoyed the conversations and want to help us do many more for Season 2, consider supporting us on Patreon. (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month).
Graham Zimmerman is an award-winning alpinist, writer, filmmaker, and climate advocate. We talked about his harrowing ascent of Mt. Bradley in his early 20s, getting injured in New Zealand, how his relationship with risk has evolved, losing friends in the mountains, the mystery of passion, the 100-year-plan, falling in love with his wife Shannon, getting shut down on K2 by global warming, the climate crisis, the concept of imperfect advocacy, and his new book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains.Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 209: Graham Zimmerman — Uncut Video!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/graham-zimmermanNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:38) – Daddy style(00:03:59) – Mt. Bradley(00:12:23) – The recipe for success(00:14:32) – How I related to the book(00:19:03) – Graham's injury in New Zealand(00:21:54) – The Burger King story(00:24:04) – Falling for mountains(00:30:24) – The mystery of passion(00:32:07) – Mark Allen(00:40:45) – What makes alpinism hard?(00:44:04) – The logistics of mountain ascents(00:48:11) – Building a relationship with places(00:52:09) – The 100-Year Plan(00:57:48) – Shannon(01:04:06) – Compromise and purpose(01:08:30) – Getting engaged(01:16:13) – Loss and risk(01:25:58) – K2 and climate(01:34:16) – Imperfect advocacy(01:43:15) – Voting(01:50:40) – Energy and water(01:51:39) – POW(01:52:29) – Don't stop climbing(01:54:11) – Graham's book and EXTRA teaser
Dr. Len Necefer didn't grow up skiing steep slopes or topping out on summits like he does today. Instead, his connection to the outdoors began with golf—a fact he shares rather sheepishly. Necefer was an avid golfer from age five until he was eighteen, when he moved to the desert southwest and realized how water-intensive that sport is. Necefer is a member of the Navajo Nation, and is working to bring more Native voices and talents into the outdoor industry through his organization Natives Outdoors. He believes in the importance of engaging with the environment in a thoughtful, meaningful and respectful way. As a backcountry skier and climber, he cultivates connection with the mountains he visits and the people he visits them with. He is a regular Alpinist contributor. In this episode, Necefer reflects on why having a sense of humor is essential when trying to communicate about heavy subjects like climate change; what it was like teaching himself to ski; and why it's important for all of us to vote. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from the American Alpine Club. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Len Necefer Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Ride - "Peace Sign" from the 2024 album Interplay on Wichita Shoegaze pioneers Ride return with the album Interplay, out March 29th on Wichita Recordings/PIAS. It'll be their seventh full-length overall, and their third since reuniting in 2014. “This album has taken a long time to make, and has seen the band go through a lot of ups and downs; maybe the most of any Ride album,” co-founder Andy Bell said in a press release. “But it has seen us come through the process as a band in a good place, feeling able to shake off the past, and ready to celebrate the combined musical talents that brought us together in the first place.” Today's Song of the Day first began to come together during a jam session in band member Mark Gardener's recording studio, OX4 studio. "We called it ‘Berlin' and initially it featured Loz on drums, Steve on bass, and myself on a prophet 5 synth," Bell continued. "About six months later I got hold of the recording and wrestled it into song form. Lyrically I was inspired by a film called The Alpinist about the visionary free climber Marc-André Leclerc. Soon after I'd finished working on the song I remember I was raving to my bandmates about Leclerc at OX4, and a good memory of that time was us all watching that film at Mark's studio." Read the full story at KEXP.orgSupport the show: https://www.kexp.org/donateSee omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire?That's the subject of today's chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.)Surprisingly, Jon's only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter FFAs in that time — the routes range from M8 to M11 and all are on some of the most prominent walls in the state. These include, “Across the Great Divide” (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550′) on Cannon Cliff, “The Resistance” (M10, 5 pitches, 360′) on Mount Washington, and “Cathedral Direct” (5.12b M11 WI5, 7 pitches).In an Alpinist recap describing a few of the climbs, Rick Wilcox, one of the most accomplished mountaineers in the area and a trailblazing climber in his own right, described what Jon is doing as “state-of-the-art as far as difficulty goes” for New England. Listen on to hear about Jon's search for balance, how he trains, and get a great play-by-play of “Cathedral Direct Direct”, a 7-pitch, 5.12b, M11, WI5 route he freed with Chris Saulnier in February of last year. Resources and links:If you'd like to hire Jon, you can connect with him at @jon_nicolodi on Instagram. Here are a few articles that highlight Jon's other climbs, which we didn't get to in this episode:Alpinist recap of "Across the Great Divide" and "The Resistance"Jon's American Alpine Club write up of "Across the Great Divide"Jon's IG post about "Cathedral Direct Direct"Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo by Erik Howes.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
Sarah Pickman is an encyclopedia of expedition history, in particular the gear early explorers relied on. She recently earned a Ph.D. in history from Yale University. She's an independent scholar, editor, writer and content producer based just outside New York City. Sarah is also a contributor to Alpinist. She's written articles on expedition first aid kits and sun protection for the Tool Users section of the magazine. As it turns out, burnt cork is no substitute for sunscreen. Through her research and writing, Sarah looks at the gear explorers carried with them on their travels—to the polar regions and high-altitude mountains, as well as to tropical and arid places—and how this gear shaped their experiences and the cultural worlds they were part of. Sarah takes us on a fascinating journey to the ends of the earth and back again. We talk about the spirit of exploration and much more in this episode. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from Osprey. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Sarah Pickman Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
David Smart's life and work seem to intersect with climbing at every turn. He's a lifelong climber, revered route developer and the editorial director at Gripped Publishing. He's a founding editor at Gripped Magazine and has been crucial to its success and longevity for more than 25 years. Smart has published five books, including a biography of Royal Robbins which recently won the Banff Mountain Book Award for climbing literature. He also actively contributes to Alpinist, including his mountain profile on Cima Grande in Alpinist 76 and a recent story on Kodak's Brownie camera and how it impacted the representation of climbing in the media and beyond. Smart has developed more than 300 routes in the Canadian Rockies and elsewhere around the world. At age 60, he continues to climb several days a week and revels in the ambiance of his home range. In this episode, we cover a lot of ground, from his new biography on Royal Robbins to the state of publishing and climbing media to his passion for route development and leaving something behind for others to experience. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from Osprey. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: David Smart Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Alpinist and labradoodle devotee Graham Zimmerman has poured his heart into climate change activism after witnessing its effects in the world's great ranges. His new book, "A Fine Line" reflects on his incredible climbing career. In the sometimes overly macho, deeply risky pursuit of alpine climbing, his book offers a welcomed counterpoint to the narrative we often hear. Fitz sat down with Graham for a live Q&A at The Mountaineers in Seattle earlier this month. Read A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains Want to hear the full conversation? Subscribe to Diaries+ Gift a subscription
Ramesh Johari is a professor at Stanford University focusing on data science methods and practice, as well as the design and operation of online markets and platforms. Beyond academia, Ramesh has advised some incredible startups, including Airbnb, Uber, Bumble, and Stitch Fix. Today we discuss:• What exactly a marketplace is, if you boil it down• What you need to get right to build a successful marketplace• How to optimize any marketplace• An easy litmus test to see if there's an opportunity to build a marketplace in the space• The role of data science in successful marketplaces• Ramesh's philosophy on experimentation and AI• Advice on implementing rating systems• Why learning isn't free—Brought to you by Sanity—The most customizable content layer to power your growth engine | Hex—Helping teams ask and answer data questions by working together | Eppo—Run reliable, impactful experiments—Find the full transcript at: https://www.lennyspodcast.com/marketplace-lessons-from-uber-airbnb-bumble-and-more-ramesh-johari-stanford-professor-startup/—Where to find Ramesh Johari:• LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rameshjohari/• Website: https://web.stanford.edu/~rjohari/• X: https://twitter.com/rameshjohari—Where to find Lenny:• Newsletter: https://www.lennysnewsletter.com• X: https://twitter.com/lennysan• LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/lennyrachitsky/—In this episode, we cover:(00:00) Ramesh's background(04:31) A brief overview of what a marketplace is(08:10) The role of data science in marketplaces(11:21) Common flaws of marketplaces(16:43) Why every founder is a marketplace founder(20:26) How Substack increased value to creators by driving demand(20:58) An example of overcommitting at eBay(22:24) An easy litmus test for marketplaces (25:52) Thoughts on employees vs. contractors(28:02) How to leverage data scientists to improve your marketplace(34:10) Correlation vs. causation(35:27) Decisions that should be made using data(39:29) Ramesh's philosophy on experimentation(41:06) How to find a balance between running experiments and finding new opportunities(44:11) Badging in marketplaces(46:04) The “superhost” badge at Airbnb(49:59) How marketplaces are like a game of Whac-A-Mole(52:41) How to shift an organization's focus from impact to learning(55:43) Frequentist vs. Bayesian A/B testing (57:50) The idea that learning is costly(1:01:55) The basics of rating systems(1:04:41) The problem with averaging(1:07:14) Double-blind reviews at Airbnb(1:08:55) How large language models are affecting data science(1:11:27) Lightning round—Referenced:• Riley Newman on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/rileynewman/• Upwork (formerly Odesk): https://www.upwork.com/• Ancient Agora: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ancient_Agora_of_Athens• Trajan's Market: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trajan%27s_Market• Kayak: https://www.kayak.com/• UrbanSitter: https://www.urbansitter.com/• Thumbtack: https://www.thumbtack.com/• Substack: https://substack.com/• Ebay: https://www.ebay.com/• Coase: “The Nature of the Firm”: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Nature_of_the_Firm• Stitch Fix: https://www.stitchfix.com/• A/B Testing with Fat Tails: https://www.journals.uchicago.edu/doi/abs/10.1086/710607• The ultimate guide to A/B testing | Ronny Kohavi (Airbnb, Microsoft, Amazon): https://www.lennyspodcast.com/the-ultimate-guide-to-ab-testing-ronny-kohavi-airbnb-microsoft-amazon/• Servaes Tholen on LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/servaestholen/• Bayesian A/B Testing: A More Calculated Approach to an A/B Test: https://blog.hubspot.com/marketing/bayesian-ab-testing• Designing Informative Rating Systems: Evidence from an Online Labor Market: https://arxiv.org/abs/1810.13028• Reputation and Feedback Systems in Online Platform Markets: https://faculty.haas.berkeley.edu/stadelis/Annual_Review_Tadelis.pdf• How to Lie with Statistics: https://www.amazon.com/How-Lie-Statistics-Darrell-Huff/dp/0393310728• David Freedman's books on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/stores/David-Freedman/author/B001IGLSGA• Four Thousand Weeks: Time Management for Mortals: https://www.amazon.com/Four-Thousand-Weeks-Management-Mortals/dp/0374159122• The Alpinist on Prime Video: https://www.amazon.com/Alpinist-Peter-Mortimer/dp/B09KYDWVVC• Only Murders in the Building on Hulu: https://www.hulu.com/series/only-murders-in-the-building-ef31c7e1-cd0f-4e07-848d-1cbfedb50ddf—Production and marketing by https://penname.co/. For inquiries about sponsoring the podcast, email podcast@lennyrachitsky.com.—Lenny may be an investor in the companies discussed. Get full access to Lenny's Newsletter at www.lennysnewsletter.com/subscribe
On Season 2, Episode 9, Michael interviews Dan Koepke, a Morgantown-native Alpinist and USA Ice Climbing team member. Dan's journey into the world of ice climbing started like many others—with a love for the outdoors and a thirst for adventure. But what sets him apart is his passion and advocacy for conservation and responsible climbing. He understands the importance of preserving the natural beauty of the places he loves to explore. When he's not hanging from a frozen waterfall or scaling towering mountains, you might find Dan sharing his knowledge and experiences with the next generation of climbers. He's a mentor, coach, and a true leader in the climbing community. We learn about how Dan embodies the Mountaineer spirit! As always, take a listen! #CreekstoPeaks #CreekstoPeaksTheUnderstory #FlagSpruce #FlagSpruceInitiative #Alpinist #IceClimbing #USAIceClimbing #MorgantownWV #Mountaineering #Mountaineers #westvirginia #westvirginiapodcasts #nowstreaming #listennow
This week Clint and Dawson sit down with Russ Clune. Russ just completed his first book, "The Lifer". Russ shares parts of his book, discusses writing styles and shares stories of his travels and climbing from around the world. Russ is a rock climber living in the Shawangunk Mountains of New York. His articles have been published in multiple journals, including Climbing, Rock & Ice, Mountain, Alpinist, Der Bergsteiger, Iwa To Yuki, The Patagonia Catalog, and Urban Climber. Clune has been climbing for over forty-five years and was one of America's best rock climbers during his peak in the 1980s; he is also one of the world's most well-traveled rock climbers. Clune was part of the employee group that created the leading climbing-gear company, Black Diamond Equipment, where he worked for thirty years. He remains an active climber and continues to travel the globe seeking new adventures. Thanks for listening! Find all our episodes at dayfirepodcast.com This podcast is powered by ZenCast.fm
Justin Bowen's first time scaling walls and new routes was in a climbing gym during a friend's birthday party. It wasn't until high school, driven by persistent memories of that experience, that Bowen started climbing on a more consistent basis. Eventually, while attending college in Arizona, Bowen planned his first trip to Yosemite, where he jumped right onto the East Buttress of Middle Cathedral. He quickly realized just how much he still had to learn about building anchors and placing gear. A few years ago, Bowen met friend and mentor Mark Jenkins, who he says shared a wealth of knowledge based on his decades of climbing around the world. Bowen still climbs with and learns from Jenkins on a regular basis. In this episode, Bowen reflects on how he manages fear—both in the mountains, and in his day-to-day life. He talks about being a PhD student, and the terrifying prospect of only having two-to-three weeks off a year to pursue climbing objectives after finishing school. And he speaks to the striking similarities between the Tetons and Mt. Kenya. Tales from Bowen and Jenkins' Mt. Kenya expedition are featured in Alpinist 83. This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Justin Bowen Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
For Alan Rousseau, the allure of mountaineering is in the unknown. When he looks up at a mountain and contemplates whether it can be climbed, he sees a mystery to be solved. Rousseau is an IFMGA guide who divides his time between pursuing his own goals in the mountains, and helping others do the same. His achievements in the Alaska Range, to which he has ventured more than twenty times, include first ascents of Ruth Gorge Grinder and Aim for the Bushes. In 2020, his first ascent of the west face of Tengi Ragi Tau with Tino Villanueva was recognized as one of the year's greatest climbing achievements and the pair won a Piolets d'Or. Villanueva wrote about the climb in Alpinist 81. In this episode, Alan reflects on more than ten years of climbing in the Alaska Range, and exploratory climbs like Aim For the Bushes that he and his partners established earlier this year. He talks about the difference between planning trips to Alaska and the Himalaya, and the mountains that act as his compass. This episode is brought to you by the American Alpine Club Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Alan Rousseau Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
On this day in 1865, British climber Edward Whymper and six companions completed the first ascent of the Matterhorn.See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Do you find the psychology of extreme athletes and their relationships fascinating? Are you curious about what motivates climbers and mountaineers to push themselves to the limit and risk it all? Are you a creative and could you use some tips on how to follow your creative spirit? If so, you won't want to miss this interview with Emmy-winning American filmmaker Peter Mortmier, who shares his unique perspective on relationships. Jayson's experience as an extreme athlete and a therapist allows him to gain a unique insight into extreme athletes' psychology. In their conversation, they discuss the reasons why climbers push themselves to the edge, the deeper experiences they seek, and the heightened awareness they gain through their adventures. Discover the psychology of extreme athletes, as well as insights into the mind of a brilliant creator in this unforgettable episode. Timestamps: 0:55 - Guest introduction 10:50 - The Alpinist 36:00 - What motivates women who climb? 39:00 - Reel Rock 17 44:45 - How Pete thinks about the creative process 50:40 - Pete's advice to stuck creatives Links: Watch Reel Rock 17 Order Jayson's book: Getting to Zero Apply to Relationship Coach Training Sign up to get Jayson's weekly newsletter via email Enroll in Relationship Mastery