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THE SHOW NOTES-A Croatian MMA fight in Crimea leads to one fighter losing twice in the same MMA fight to both his opponent and the referee via technical submission. This weekend’s Bellator over delivered with three super viral finishes that made the rounds on IG.This Week in Sporps: Spinning shit, upkicks KOs, and a super rare gogoplata in MMA. Spinning Shit: Raymond Daniels, in just his SECOND mma appearance, hit the craziest tornado punch against Wilker Barros (spinning back kick into nutty tornado punch). Is there a parallel between the relationship of linear media/new media and boxing/MMA when it comes to money? Probably. But we’re not economists. Upkicks: Fabian Edwards beat Falco Neto with that upkick straight into some hands. Brent Primus got dropped by Tim Wilde but gogo’ed him just 1 minute and 20 seconds into the fight.Show and Tell - Fighting in HockeyGrowing up in LA we’ve had the Kings but LA was never a hockey town until Gretzky came to town. Jarrett’s knowledge of hockey might begin and end with the Sega Genesis classic NHLPA ‘93 so Zeke had his work cut out for him as he went through the origins of fighting in hockey. The term “Fisticuffs” makes its return to the podcast as we discuss the 1922 hockey rules (rule 56 or 46 if you’re playing with the new rules).Can your martial art answer a hockey fight? Most don’t but gi jiu jitsu might… pay attention to grips right away! Having a game plan is not the same thing as magical thinking and only setting an intention. Tactics? We don’t need no stinking tactics! We have the traditional Go-for-It method and the classic rope-a-dope tactic as made famous by Gordie Howe. Etiquette: Like most things in life there is a way to go about fighting in hockey. Goon vs Goon and size matters. But what about the refs? Well they have a lot of leeway and sometimes guys just need to work it out. Causes: There are several but it's usually related to honor, protection but sometimes it’s personal.Will it ever go away? Probably not. Efforts have been made but it's a part of the game for the foreseeable future.Here are the top 5 hockey fights of all time in no particular order…Marty McSorley vs Wendel Clark - One of the most celebrated hockey players of all time takes on one of the most hated, and the video is an instant classicFlyers vs Canadiens - The scene was so embarrassing for the NHL that rules were finally changed. Incredibly harsh penalties were delivered to any player caught leaving the bench to fight, and the “Warmup Brawl” promptly ended bench clearing brawls from taking placeColorado Avalanche vs Detroit Red Wings - Context: Also known as “Bloody Wednesday”, this was the brawl that defined an eraBruins vs Rangers 1979 - The debauchery on the ice wasn’t enough as a Ranger’s fan named John Kaptain joined the melee, stealing a players’ stick and hitting him from the stands. That spurred on 18 different Bruins to run into the stands and pummel Kaptain.Dave Schultz vs tiger williams - Schultz showed why he still holds the record more most penalty minutes in a single season with 472 by immediately dropping the gloves and going after Williams in retaliation for a dirty playIf you have a suggestion for viral clip of the week, or a topic related to anything fight stuff you think we should explore, email us at fightstuffpodcast@gmail.com , follow us on instagram @fightstuffpodcast , leave us a nice review, that helps, and we want this thing to be a THINGCREDITSFight Stuff is hosted, edited, and executive produced by Jarrett Sleeper and me Zeke Rodrigues Thomas for Mindjam Media. Our theme song is by Jason Scardamalia. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Hello Listener! Thank you for listening. If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger. Giant Angora Rabbit Breed They say that Angora rabbits are the “Bunnies with a Bonus”. Whatever that bonus is, the Giant Angora still claims the upper hand . It's renowned wool is said to be seven times warmer than the wool of the sheep. Its wool is so valuable because rabbits can produce more than six times of wool per pound of body weight than the sheep, and on top of that, the dietary requirement is 30% less per pound than the sheep. The Giant Angora is the largest of the ARBA recognized Angora breeds. It was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay, and live in the standard sized, all-wire cages. Giant Angora Rabbit Breed History/Origin For many years, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) only recognized two types of Angoras – the French and the English – because the other types were not different enough to be considered a separate breed. Because ARBA wouldn't allow German Angoras to be shown (their body type was considered too similar to the other Angora breeds), Louise Walsh of Taunton, Massachusetts created a new breed. Louise Walsh of Taunton Massachusetts set her sights on creating a larger breed of Angora that was different from the others. She used German Angoras, French Lops, and Flemish Giants to develop a completely different "commercial" body type. Walsh crossed German Angoras to larger commercial breeds and developed an all-white rabbit that had some ear and head furnishings with exceptional high-quality wool. ARBA officially recognized the Giant Angora in 1988. Its coat includes three types of wool: soft under wool, awn fluff, and awn hair. Due to its large size, the Giant Angora rabbit requires a large enclosure to ensure a comfortable life. Overall Description It is to have a commercial-type body with a very dense coat of wool. The head will be oval in appearance that is broad across the forehead and slightly narrower at the muzzle. The Giant Angora will have forehead tufts (head trimmings) and cheek furnishings. The head trimmings are to be noticeable, however, does are not as heavy in trimmings as the bucks. The ears should be lightly fringed and well tasseled. According to the ARBA Standard of Perfection, bucks should weigh 9 1/2 pounds (4.32 kg) or more. Does should weigh 10 pounds (4.54 kg) or more. There are no upper weight limits. The Giant Angora is also the only breed of angora that is only shown as a ruby-eyed white. The classification of the Giant Angora is different than the other Angora breeds due to the fact it is a 6-class animal. The junior buck and junior doe must be under 6 months of age and have a minimum weight of 4 ¾ pounds. The intermediate buck and intermediate doe are 6–8 months of age. The senior buck and senior doe are 8 months of age or over. The senior buck must weigh at least 9 ½ pounds. The senior doe must weigh at least 10 pounds. With judging the Giant Angoras the majority of the points are based on the wool, which includes density, texture, and length. The points for "general type" include the body type, head, ears, eyes, feet, legs, and tail. Like many other "giant" breeds of rabbits, the Giant Angora grows slowly. A doe usually takes more than a year to reach full maturity (size and weight). A buck can take up to 1.5 years to fully mature (size and weight). Coat Out of the four Angora breeds recognized by the ARBA, the Giant Angora rabbit produces the most wool. The Giant Angora produces more wool than the French, Satin or English Angoras. They have three different kinds of fiber in its wool: soft underwool (gentle waves and shine), awn fluff (crimped with a hooked end) and awn hair (guard hairs which are strong and straight). In order to keep their wool mat-free, be sure to brush it with a bristled brush once every two days or as necessary. If your Giant Angora’s wool gets a little dirty, spot-clean it with a damp towel. Despite being a descendant of the German Angoras, which do not molt, Giant Angoras go through a partial molt. However, their wool needs to be harvested 3-4 times a year by owners using shears or scissors and can produce 1-2 lbs of wool per year. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. The awn type wool exists only in the Giant and German Angora breeds. The Giant Angora has furnishings on the face and ears. Many people confuse the German with the Giant Angora, but it is their body type that differs. The Giant Angora coat contains three fiber types for its texture. The underwool is to be the most dominant over the other two types of hair. It should be medium fine, soft, delicately waved and have a gentle shine. The Awn Fluff has a guard hair tip and is a stronger, wavy wool. The Awn Fluff is found between the Underwool and Awn Hair. The Awn Hair, also known as guard hair, is the third type of fiber. The Awn Hair is a straight, strong hair that protrudes above the wool and must be present and evident. Most Giant Angoras do not fully molt, so breeders eagerly harvest the wool by shearing and hand-spin it into yarn, often mixing it with other animal fiber to give it strength. Then they dye it beautiful colors and knit it into assorted creative and useful garments. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. Today most spinning is done by hobbyists and small farmers. Beginning spinners may find Angora wool a challenge. In the past, commercial wool production was a healthy industry in the United States, but now China produces the most rabbit wool commercially. Colors Like other Angoras, the Giant Angora rabbit comes in a variety of hues from grey to brown to black, and broken colors. However, the only color that is accepted by the ARBA is REW (ruby-eyed white rabbits), also called albino rabbits. A Black color variety of the Giant Angora is in development, but has not been sanctioned by ARBA. Care Requirements Due to its large size, this rabbit requires an equally large enclosure to ensure a lengthy, comfortable life. Should your Giant Angora rabbit be an outdoor rabbit, wood enclosures that are raised from the ground and have a fenced bottom are preferred to keep them safe from the elements as well as predators. Indoor enclosures should have a wire frame and a plastic bottom where pet owners can place bedding. Some rabbit cages also have wire bottoms, however the wire is harsh on your rabbit’s feet. Be sure to spot-clean the bedding every day to give your rabbit a dung-free area to sleep and change the bedding every week or more as needed. Giant Angora rabbits should always have a few toys to keep them entertained. Diet The Giant Angora was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay. Now who better that the original breeder for this Breed to speak about food. Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits. Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora. So I have notes about feed from Evergreen Farm where the breed was created. "You are better off getting your food from a feed store such as Agway or a feed and garden store. You will find the food much fresher than that which is commercially available in pet stores. Though pet stores have a gift of making their feeds attractive, their turnover of product is much slower than a grain mill store, thus the freshness in the pet store can not usually measure up to that of the feed store. In reading the feed label if it says “forage and grain products” it might mean whatever they can obtain as cheaply as possible. It will give inconsistent ingredients and can give your bunny some digestive problems. Best to stay away from this one. Go for a feed that lists ingredients such as oats, wheat, or barley for energy. Corn is nasty as a primary grain. It makes a bunny fat. . High fiber and low protein feeds seem to work quite well on angora rabbits. I, personally wouldn’t want a protein over 18%. I like high fiber (good roughage to help the rabbit pass ingested hair). In grain stores you might consider a 50 lb bag of feed. It’s the cheapest practical way to purchase and after three months, when you’re still working on the bag, consider freezing the remainder. It won’t hurt it at all and it will maintain it’s freshness. HAY: = EXTREMELY important nutritional resource. Very young bunnies consume hay in their nest as soon as they can nibble a food. It’s an excellent source of fiber, a great diet food for the pudgy bunny. It’s loaded with vitamins, minerals and a definite fun food. Best are low protein grass hays, such as timothy or orchard grass. These can be offered to the bunny as free choice (even Weight Watchers would approve. Lots of people gravitate toward alfalfa. It’s not a good idea as its high protein. Remember what I said about protein? NATURALLY DELICIOUS FOODS: You thought I wouldn’t say carrots? Of course, carrots. kale, romaine lettuce, a small slice of apple, dandelion, clover, parsley, blackberry leaves Also any wholesome cereal, . Birdseed, sunflower seeds, dried fruit, oatmeal & cheerios . That should be enough goodies." Health Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. The most worrisome health issue a Giant Angora rabbit has to worry about is the possibility of developing wool block. Rabbits are clean creatures and like other animals, enjoy grooming themselves to keep their coat in good condition. Some animals, like cats, regurgitate the fur that they accidentally swallow – rabbits don’t have that ability. Instead, due to a diet that is poor in hay, the wool get stuck in their stomachs and creates sort of a hairball. The rabbit believes their bellies are full and refuses to eat and eventually dies of starvation. Symptoms of wool block include lack of appetite, less droppings and a less active rabbit overall. Should you suspect your rabbit is experiencing wool block, be sure to rush them to your local veterinarian to get the problem sorted. All rabbits are also susceptible to developing overgrown teeth. This problem is also caused to a diet that lacks a proper balance of hay, which is used to slowly grind down their teeth naturally. Overgrown teeth can grow into a rabbit’s jaw and face and be very painful. In order to prevent this, make sure to check your rabbit’s mouth every once in a while to check for overgrown teeth and always make sure they have a proper diet consisting of mostly hay. Care of the Giant Angora's wool coat is not as difficult as the care needed by the English Angora rabbit. However, angoras are susceptible to starvation by wool block, and are more sensitive to temperature changes due to their incredibly thick coats (or during the 1 - 1.5 months immediately following a shearing). Temperament/Behavior Giant Angoras should have as much time outside of their enclosures as possible in order for their individual personalities to really shine. Rabbits who are mostly kept in their enclosures and away from human activity do not have the time to interact with their humans and won’t be able to create a lasting relationship. Whether you decide to keep your Angora indoors or out, make sure they have plenty of room to roam around freely and safely. Indoor rabbits should have the freedom to hop around your rooms and have access to sunlight, while outdoor rabbits should be out of their enclosures a few hours every day to stretch their legs in a fenced yard or run. Giant Angoras are mostly used as fiber animals, meaning they are generally bred to produce wool. However, should you decide to keep this rabbit breed as a pet, be sure to socialize them when they are kits in order to have a well-rounded bunny that does well with smaller children and perhaps even other animals. Rabbits are not easy animals to litter train, however it is possible with lots of patience and rewards when they do the deed in the correct spot. Many owners find having several litter boxes spread across the home is a necessary evil in order for their indoor rabbit not to leave their droppings all over their home. They also find that if their rabbit is prone to doing the deed in one particular corner, they place a litter box in that corner so the rabbit can make the connection and understand that they should be doing their business in the box and not outside the box wherever they please. Evergreen Farm Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits. Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora. In the past their facility has housed over 7,000 rabbits at one time. Through their barn doors people from all over the world have passed who have purchased and visited their wooly residents. At the time of the release of this episode they have rabbits available as well as wool products. Clubs The National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club, Inc (NARBC, Inc) was first organized as a specialty club for Angora breeders in 1932 with the AR&CBA (now the ARBA). The NARBC, Inc still remains a chartered National Specialty Club with the ARBA. United Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (UARC) was chartered by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 2007 through the hard work of a handful of dedicated breeders. In February of 2012, the UARC became affiliated with the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (NARBC). The UARC is a club for all Angora rabbit fanciers, whether their interests are showing, breeding, or fiber related. A club that is run by its members, for its members, for the promotion of Angoras through shared information, shows, meetings, and instruction in a creative and positive atmosphere. All club communication is done via the internet (email, yahoo group, and Facebook) including a club newsletter (when one is sent out). There is an Appalachian Angora Rabbit Club who have a page on Facebook, but their website seems to redirect to a Slim Korean Fashion Harem children's clothes website. Closing Giant Angora Rabbits are endangered as a breed. According to the Rabbit Geek, In 2006 and 2014, they ranked #2 on the Rare Breeds List, the second-rarest rabbit breed, after the Blanc de Hotot. This breed is for rabbit owners serious about spinning, fiber arts or selling fiber, who have the time & space to handle this gentle giant https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/giant-angora-rabbit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_rabbit https://www.raising-rabbits.com/giant-angora-rabbits.html https://hickoryhillllamas.com/giant-angora-rabbits/ http://www.adoptarabbit.com/breeds/giant-angora/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/giant-angora-rabbits https://angorarabbit.com/cms/articles/angora-rabbit-breeds/giant-angora-rabbit-breed/ https://www.thecapecoop.com/what-breed-angora-rabbit-is-right-for-you/ http://www.evergreenfarm.biz/about_us http://nationalangorarabbitbreeders.com/new/ Rabbit Cures the Dragon King (A Korean Legend) Sep 29, 2002 by Amy Friedman and Meredith Johnson Long ago, in a land beneath the sea, the Dragon King was dying of a mysterious illness. The creatures of the undersea kingdom swam frantically to and fro, circling their king as he lay on his coral throne, wondering what they could do to help. At last the sea horse announced a cure. "The king must eat the liver of a rabbit," he said. "That will cure him." The Dragon King was overjoyed to hear this news, but the others were alarmed. "How will we find a rabbit's liver?" the shark asked the sea urchin. "I've no idea what we should do," wailed the cuttlefish to the cod. "How can we get this medicine to save our king?" moaned the octopus, and he twisted himself up in knots as he wrung his tentacles. But the turtle grinned. "I can fetch a rabbit," he said proudly. "I am the one sea creature who can also live on land." "Then do so at once," commanded the Dragon King, and without a moment's hesitation, the turtle swam toward the surface of the sea. He would find a rabbit, he would. When he arrived on the shore, he was struck by a troubling thought and paused to consider the situation. How would he convince a rabbit to swim beneath the sea with him? And how would he catch a rabbit? He had never actually met a rabbit, but he had seen them bounding through the forest when, on occasion, he sat upon the land sunning himself. As he crawled along the shore, a rabbit happened along. She had heard stories of turtles and was curious. "Hello there, turtle," the rabbit said. "Why hello, rabbit," the startled turtle answered. "I ... I didn't see you there." "Here I am," said the rabbit, "curious to know a turtle. I've never known one, you see." And so they talked for a while, learning about each other's world. Then the rabbit said, "I'd love to see your kingdom someday." "You would?" the turtle asked, surprised. "Why yes," said the rabbit. "You've told me all about the coral castles and the glittering shells. It must be a beautiful place." "Why don't you come with me?" asked the turtle. "I will!" the rabbit replied. "I can hold my breath very well, and I do so wish to see this Dragon King I've heard about." And with that the arrangements were made, and the rabbit hopped on the turtle's back, and splash! into the water they swam. For as long as possible, the turtle swam upon the surface, as he did not want his new friend to hold her breath for too long. The rabbit enjoyed the ride as they swam farther and farther from shore. Back on shore the monkeys let out wails, and the other forest creatures waved to the rabbit. "Don't go underwater," they called, but the rabbit was too excited to listen, and besides, she was enjoying her ride. Finally the turtle knew he would have to dive down toward his kingdom, and now he regretted bringing the rabbit along. How could he allow his new friend to give up her life -- and yet, he had to save the Dragon King. "Hang on," he called to the rabbit as he dived for the deep. Down, down, down they swam, and soon they arrived at the Dragon King's castle. The king was lying on his coral throne, looking very ill. "This is my king," the turtle said to her. And to the king, with some embarrassment, he said, "Your Majesty, this is your rabbit." "'His' rabbit?" the rabbit asked. "What do you mean, friend?" "My king needs a rabbit's liver to save his life," the turtle said sadly. "Does he?" the rabbit asked. The turtle looked down at the ocean floor and a tear dripped from his eye. "We have a problem," the rabbit said. "I've left my liver back in the forest. I'm afraid you'll have to take me home, where I can pick up my liver. Then we will return to give it to your king." "Hurry then," the Dragon King feebly implored. "Go, and return quickly. I'm very weak now." And so the turtle turned around, with the rabbit on his back, and off they swam. When they arrived at the shore, the rabbit quickly hopped off her friend's back. "I'll be right back," she said. She scampered into the forest, where she plucked a persimmon. Tearing open the fruit, she picked out several seeds, and these she wrapped in a leaf. Then she returned to the turtle. "I'm ready," she said, and off they swam, back to the kingdom beneath the sea. "I hereby offer you my liver," said the rabbit to the Dragon King, bowing low. "May you live in good health for many years." She handed the persimmon seeds to the king, who did not recognize them, of course. Under the sea, they had never seen persimmon seeds. Only the turtle understood. The king quickly swallowed the seeds, and a moment later he stood and patted the turtle's head. "I am cured!" he announced, "and as for you, rabbit, you have served our creatures well. We will always honor the rabbit." With that the turtle carried his friend back to shore. They never saw each other again, but they never forgot each other. And only the turtle, of all the undersea creatures, understood how truly wise the rabbit was. https://www.uexpress.com/tell-me-a-story/2002/9/29/rabbit-cures-the-dragon-king-a Abnormality of Incisor Teeth in Rabbits Incisor Malocclusion and Overgrowth in Rabbits A rabbit's teeth usually grow throughout its life, and a high fiber diet, with foods that warrant heavy chewing, are required for proper alignment and functioning, as the coarse foods help to keep the teeth at a manageable length. Occlusion, the fitting together of the teeth of the upper and lower jaws when the mouth is closed, can be hampered by overgrowth of one or more of the teeth, a condition referred to as malocclusion (where the prefix mal- joined with -occlusion refers to the ill-fitting shape of the teeth). If elongation of the cheek teeth occurs, complete closure of the mouth cannot be achieved, and the upper incisor teeth are prevented from coming into contact with the lower incisors, leading to excessive growth of the incisors. The incisor teeth can grow as much as one mm a day if left unopposed by the opposite jaw – the meeting/occlusion of the teeth, along with a diet high in roughage, acts as a natural inhibitor of the tooth's growth. Symptoms and Types Readily visible teeth Excessive drooling Tooth grinding Nasal discharge Food drops out of mouth Preference for softer foods Preference for a water bowl over a sipper bottle Decreased appetite or complete loss of appetite (anorexia) Weight loss Excessive tear production Facial asymmetry or exophthalmos (protrusion of eyeball) Pain (i.e., reluctance to move, depression, lethargy, hiding, hunched posture) Unkempt hair coat due to lack of self grooming Causes There are many factors that can lead to cheek teeth overgrowth. The most significant contributing or exacerbating factor is a diet that contains inadequate amounts of the coarse roughage material that is required for properly grinding the tooth's surface, allowing the incisors to grow into the surrounding soft tissues, damaging the tissue and even leading to secondary bacterial infections in the mouth. Dwarf and lop breeds have been found to be at an increased risk for congenital malocclusion, as they are more prone to skeletal abnormalities. Diagnosis Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam on your rabbit, differentiating between overgrown incisors and other tumors of the mouth of skull. Visual diagnostics will include skull and face X-rays, and computed tomography (CT) for better viewing of abnormalities. A fine needle aspiration (drawing and analyzing the fluid from swelling) will be taken for laboratory testing. A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, complete blood count, urinalysis, and a bacterial culture to determine the exact strain of bacteria so that the appropriate antibiotics can be prescribed. Treatment Treatment, whether outpatient or inpatient, will be based on the severity of the symptoms. Fluids may need to be given if your rabbit is dehydrated, and intravenous nutrition if your rabbit has been suffering from a condition of anorexia. Appropriate antibiotic therapy will be given with caution. This is not the primary choice of treatment. If necessary, surgery may be performed to trim the teeth, extract teeth that cannot be repaired, or drain abscess that have occurred as a result of the malocclusion. In some cases, the intestinal tract may have been affected as well, and surgery may be required to remove solids from the intestine. After you have returned home, monitor your rabbit's appetite and production of feces, and report any abnormalities to your veterinarian immediately, as death may occur due to sudden and severe complications. Living and Management A warm, quiet environment will need to be set aside for your rabbit to recover in, but encourage a return to activity as soon as possible, as activity can greatly enhance recovery. If the rabbit is not too tired, encourage exercise (hopping) for at least 10-15 minutes every 6-8 hours. After the initial treatment, most rabbits will require assisted feeding for 36-48 hours postoperatively. Keep fur around the face clean and dry. It is important that your rabbit continue to eat during and following treatment. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, and good-quality grass hay. Feed timothy and grass hay instead of alfalfa hay, but also continue to offer your rabbit its usual pelleted diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat and to maintain its weight and nutritional status. If your rabbit refuses these foods, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture until it can eat again on its own. Unless your veterinarian has specifically advised it, do not feed your rabbit high-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements. Recurrence is likely, so it is important to provide adequate tough, fibrous foods such as hay and grasses to encourage normal wear of teeth. Lifelong treatment, with periodic teeth trimming, is often required, usually every 1-3 months. This, in turn, will require both an investment in time and money on your part. Euthanasia may be warranted with severe or advanced disease, especially in rabbits that are in constant and/or severe pain, or cannot eat. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/mouth/c_rb_incisor_malocclusion_overgrowth © Copyrighted
Hello Listener! Thank you for listening. If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger. Meissner Lop The Virginia museum of Natural History offers innovative, award-winning exhibits highlighting the unique features of Virginia’s natural history. All exhibits and presentations are correlated to Virginia education standards. https://www.vmnh.net/events/details/id/330/dragon-festival The Meissner Lop rabbit is a recognized rare breed by the BRC. It is similar but more slender than the French Lop. The Meissner Lop is one of the oldest German rabbit breeds, but it is so rare today that is considered endangered. This breed got it start in 1900, when Leopold Reck, from Meissner (hence the name), decided to breed a large rabbit with a silvery fur, which was quite popular at the time. Although the true origin of the Meissner Lop rabbit is unknown, it is believed that it is the results of crossing French Lop with Mini Silver Rabbit. Even though it’s not commonly found today, there are many breeders interested in preserving this stunning rabbit breed. Meissner Lop is mostly bred in Europe, and it is recognized by The British Rabbit Council (BRA). A rare and beautiful breed, Meissner Lop rabbits are an excellent choice for a pet, as they have great, lively personality and sweet nature. Overall Description Meissner Lop rabbit is unique among the lop breeds because of their silver-dusted hair. Considered to be medium to large sized, Meissner Lop rabbits weigh from 7.5 to 10 lbs. Apart from their unique shimmery coat, these rabbits share most of their physical traits with other lop rabbits. Their body type is compact, and their bodies are stocky, slightly stretched, with arched, well rounded back. Meissner Lop rabbits have a rounded head with the distinct long ears that fall to the sides of their head. The legs and short and sturdy. The silvering of the coat (not seen until 5 - 6 weeks old) should be evenly distributed. Larger than the Klein Widder but smaller than the German Lop, the Meissner Lop Rabbit is one of the most beautiful and yet most uncommon breeds of lop-eared rabbit in the world. Known for bold coloration and prominent silver ticking, it's surprising to learn that these rabbits aren't more popular. While less massive than German and French Lops, the Meissner is known for his size and beautiful coat. Commonly weighing anywhere from 7 lbs. 12 oz. to 12 lbs. this makes the breed a size larger than the Klein Widder – the rabbit that eventually came to be known as the Mini Lop in the United States, and a bit less compact than his American cousin. In fact, the body shape of the Meissner is considerably lower in the shoulders and rising to a slow, graceful arch over the hips, rather than the basketball tightness of the Mini Lop. They still posses good bone and an overall feeling of muscled power. The head of the Meissner is not as broad nor as massive as that Of the larger French Lops, though it possesses a beautiful round shape and an nicely arched profile when viewed from the side. Does (females) have a slightly ‘weaker’ head that possesses a more feminine appearance and are also permitted to have a small dewlap. The ears hang straight down, falling just behind the eyes, with a length of 15-16 inches, when measured tip-to-tip. Additional Information: This rabbit is less massive than the German Lop. The ears are carried full. Alternative names: Meissner Hangoor (The Netherlands) Meissner Widder (Germany) The History of the Meissner Widder The true origins of the Meissner Widder are a mystery, though it’s believed that they developed in Germany during the 1920’s, when rabbit breeders began crossing silver rabbits into the lop breeds, hoping to increase the size of the beautiful silver rabbits, thereby making their valuable coats even more highly prized. At the time, it was less popular to raise one group of rabbits for fur and another for meat – ideally, if you could cross the two, you had the ideal rabbit to raise in your pens. Coat Meissner Lop rabbits have a beautiful, soft fur. Their coats are very dense, with plenty of guard hair, and of medium length- their hair is around 3 centimeters long. But the most distinctive quality of Meissner Lop’s coat is the silver ticking, which gives it a shimmery, shiny effect. None of the other Lop breeds display this silver dusting, which makes this breed unique. Their fur is easy to groom and doesn’t require any special attention, except during the molting season, when these rabbits should be brushed more often, to help them with shedding and prevent hair from ending up in their digestive tract. The coat is dense, soft and has a lustrous sheen; it lies smoothly against the body. There are distinctive "bumps" where the ears and head meet; the ends of the ears are rounded. Colors The Meissner Lop rabbit comes in all self colors, but only four of them are recognized- black, blue, yellow and Havana. Black and Blue Meissner Lops are the most common, while other colors are rarely found, due to their diminished numbers. Regardless of the color of the coat, their fur is always silvered evenly throughout the body (less so on the ears and legs), giving the hair a mesmerizing sheen. Their body is to possess an even dusting of silver hairs throughout, though the face and toes may be slightly less silvered. Meissner Lop rabbit is unique among the lop breeds because of their silver-dusted hair. BRC 1. Type – Not as stocky and compact as the French Lop. The body is longer with the back nicely arched and well rounded at the rear. The legs are strong and straight. A small well formed dewlap is permissible in older does. 2. Weight - Ideal weight 4.5kg (10lb) to a maximum weight 5.5kg (12lb). Minimum weight 3.5kg (7.3/4lb) 3. Head and Ears – The head has a beautiful arched profile. The forehead is broad but not as massive as that of the French Lop. The head of the doe is somewhat weaker than that of the buck. The ears rise from the crown and are carried with the inside aspect close to and facing the cheeks. They should hang down straight, behind the eyes, without being carried forward or backwards. Ear length 38-42cm (15-16 in) 4. Fur – The fur is of medium length approximately 3cm (1.1/4in) and quitedense. Evenly interspersed with guard hairs. 5. Color – All self colors and yellow. 6. Silvering and Evenness – Top color to be evenly silvered over the whole body. It is permissible for the nose, muzzle and toes to be less strongly silvered. 7. CONDITION - as standard for all breeds. FAULTS - Minor deviation in type. Poor ear carriage. Deviation from ideal ear length. DISQUALIFICATIONS - Severe deviation in type. Adult ear length less than 36cm and over 42cm. Horizontal or partly erect ears. Too short in body. Completely dark head without any silvering. Plus standard faults and disqualifications. Note, that a lack of any silvering on the Meissner may look strikingly beautiful, it is considered a disqualification from the show table. The Meissner should also have all dark toenails. Care Requirements Meissner Lop rabbits are well known as lively and friendly. When it comes to living conditions, Meissner Lop rabbits are no different than other breeds. They can be kept indoors or outdoors, provided that all their needs are met, but, if you want to keep this breed as a family pet, it’s best to keep them in your home. That way, the rabbit can socialize better with his family and will be much friendlier to people. In both cases, your bunny will need a proper enclosure to spend their time in. Due to their size, Meissner Lop rabbits will require a relatively large enclosure, in which they can lounge around, stretch their legs and sit. The floor of the hutch or the enclosure should be lined with rabbit-friendly bedding, which is to be cleaned daily and replaced entirely every week. Meissner Lop rabbits are well known as lively and friendly, and they need to be let out of their enclosures each day for some quality playtime. However, when you allow your bunny outside, whether in your yard or indoors, you need to make sure to create a safe environment for them. Inside your home, you’ll need to rabbit-proof everything, hiding or removing any items that could hurt them or that they could damage, like electric cables or dangerous foods. In the outdoor areas, their playing space needs to be fenced and protected from potential predators. Their diet is the same as that of any other rabbit. They require a lot of hay, with the addition of pellets, fruits, and veggies and a constant source of fresh water. Meissner Lop rabbits are known as good feeders, so they are not usually picky and have a healthy appetite. Health Meissner Lop rabbits don’t have any hereditary diseases or breed-specific health issues, but they do need proper care to lead long and healthy lives. The most common problems that affect all rabbit breeds are overgrown teeth, GI stasis, and viruses such as myxomatosis (prevented by vaccination). Rabbit’s teeth continuously grow throughout their life, so it’s essential to provide them with a way to grind them down. This means you’ll need to feed them a lot of roughage, like hay, which helps their teeth stay in good shape. But, rabbits don’t only nibble on hay and carrots. They are big on grooming themselves, which often leads to hairballs getting stuck in their digestive tract. Since rabbits can’t vomit the hair out (like cats), the hair blocks their intestines, which, if left untreated, can have fatal consequences. To prevent this, groom your bunny regularly and watch out for any warning signs- constipation, lethargy, loss of appetite or poop connected by strands of hair. Unless you plan on breeding your rabbits, you should consider spaying or neutering. It’s a simple, routine procedure that will make them more calm and docile, prevent potential problems with reproductive organs, and eliminate the possibility of urine marking. Temperament/Behavior Not unlike all Lop breeds, Meissner Lop rabbits are friendly, affectionate and sweet-tempered. However, Silver Rabbits are a part of their ancestry, which means these bunnies are more active and lively than other lop rabbits. They will need to be let out of their enclosures each day, because they like to roam about and spend all that energy. Meissner Lop rabbits love playing, so bunny toys and some quality playtime with their owner is all they need to be happy. They enjoy attention and being petted and make great pets for singles or seniors. Playful, sweet, and friendly, these rabbits make lovely family pets. As they have a good character and are relatively calm, they can be an excellent choice for families with older children, as well. However, it is important to educate your kids how to safely handle a rabbit, to prevent injuries or accidents. If you plan on keeping a rabbit as a pet in your apartment or house, litter training them will make things much easier for both you and them. Even though rabbits are not as easy to potty train like, say, cats, with a little patience and effort they can be taught to “do their business” in a designated area. The Meissner Lop Rabbit as a Pet Part of the reason that the Meissner Lop is considered a rare or endangered breed is most likely due to his inability to compete with larger meat rabbits, yet the large size makes him less popular as a pet as well. With dwarf and mini breeds being all the rage, the average 10-pound Meissner lop will require more space to keep and usually eats a considerable amount more than his smaller cousins. Perhaps the most challenging thing about keeping a Meissner Widder as a pet is simply finding one. Found only in Europe, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) does not recognize the Meissner Lop breed and, even in their home country, you may find yourself paying a bit more for the rabbit, as well as doing quite a bit of legwork before you find someone who raises quality Meissner Widder. When you do, however, it’s certainly worth all the wait. Perhaps raising interest in the breed can help to revitalize them and keep this beautiful breed of bunny from being lost. http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/meissner-lop/ http://vetbook.org/wiki/rabbit/index.php?title=Meissner_Lop http://devonminilops.weebly.com/meissner-lops.html http://wildpro.twycrosszoo.org/S/0MLagomorph/Leporidae/Oryctolagus/Oryctolagus_cuniculus/Img_O_cuniculus_dom/BRC21-30p04_Meissner_Lop.htm https://treepony.com/rabbit-breed-profiles-the-meissner-lop/ Matted Hair and Hairballs in the Stomach in Rabbits Trichobezoars in Rabbits A trichobezoar is a technical reference for a mat of hair that has been ingested, and that is often combined with thick or undigested food. It is located in the stomach and/or intestines. It is not abnormal to find hair in a rabbit's stomach, since they self-groom, and this normally would not cause symptoms or be a cause for concern or a sign of disease. However, inspissated stomach contents (thick, dry, and less fluid and motile), which may include hair, is an abnormal finding and a cause for further inspection. The finding of inspissated contents or a mass of hair may suggest that your rabbit is receiving too little fiber in its diet, or that there is a problem with its gastrointestinal tract. Unlike cats, which also can suffer from excessive trichobezoars, rabbits are not physically capable of vomiting the contents of their stomachs. For this reason, everything that goes into a rabbit's mouth must be able to pass through the digestive tract, otherwise, the presence of excess hair can lead to severe complications, such as intestinal blockage. If the issue is not resolved quickly, the condition can be fatal. Symptoms and Types The signs, symptoms, and type of trichobezoars suffered by the rabbit can depend largely on the causes for the disease and the severity of the problem. Some common signs and symptoms of matted hair in the stomach may include: Inappropriate eating habits, including consumption of too many pellets, cereals, and grains during the day History of illness or stress Weight loss Chronic disease Scant and small fecal pellets Diarrhea Abdominal distension Slow movement in the stomach, distension or hardening of the stomach Firm indigestible material found in the stomach Few abdominal sounds coming from the stomach Delayed emptying of the stomach Abdominal pain on palpation or touching of the stomach Decreased activity, and too much time spent in caged quarters Teeth grinding, hunched posture and other signs of pain Weakness or collapse Symptoms of shock Causes There are several causes for trichobezoars, or hairballs, in the stomachs of rabbits. These include improper nutrition, and dehydration of the stomach contents. Sometimes metabolic diseases, pain, or stress can contribute to the formation and accumulation of hairballs or matted hair in the stomach. Usually, the finding is that too little gastrointestinal motility is to blame for the collection of hair and other materials in the stomach. One of the culprits may be feeding the rabbit too little hay or coarse fiber, necessary for pushing contents through the digestive tract. Anorexia - an inability to eat -- or simply a prolonged poor appetite can also contribute to the problem. Diagnosis There will always be conditions to rule out prior to diagnosing trichobezoars, or related conditions. Diagnostic imaging, such as what can be viewed on X-ray, will allow your veterinarian to investigate the functions of the colon and gastrointestinal tract, and to view the stasis (obstruction), or inability of the digestive tract to pass fecal matter through to the anus. Your doctor will need to determine if there is in fact an obstruction in the gastrointestinal tract, or in the motility, and whether a life-threatening emergency may exist. If an obstruction is found, emergency treatment will be necessary, as this can quickly cause a life threatening situation. In acute (sudden) cases, shock may occur, so it is important to take sensible action quickly. Distension of the stomach is usually clear, and a quick inspection by your veterinarian will find food and hair in the gastric contents. Ultrasound is an excellent diagnostic tool for visualization of the stomach's contents, and to confirm the diagnosis. Treatment Severe bloating of the abdomen can be life-threatening, so prompt treatment will be vital to the life of your rabbit. If you find your rabbit with an abnormally distended belly, you will need to take it to the veterinary clinic to be evaluated as soon as possible. Treatment will consist of immediate administration of fluid therapy to re-hydrate the gastric contents in the hope of making the contents more motile. Stomach massage can also sometimes help relieve impacted contents from the stomach cavity. Decompression may also be helpful. Activity is often recommended for more mobile animals to help promote action within the gastrointestinal system, and a proper diet is essential for restoring proper growth of intestinal flora, and prevention of the overgrowth of bacterial pathogens that could disrupt the healthy growth of bacteria in the gut. A large selection of natural greens, including collard greens, romaine lettuce, parsley, and spinach are a few of the many greens that are recommended as part of a healthy daily diet for rabbits. Living and Management If your rabbit is capable of moving, you should continue to encourage it to do so, avoid pellets and other unhealthy snacks unless otherwise advised by your veterinarian. Rest and relaxation is recommended, with frequent breaks for stretching and motion. Analgesics (pain relievers) can be helpful for relieving intestinal pain, and antibiotic therapy may be helpful for patients with the diarrhea that is associated with bacterial infections. Be sure to continue the full prescribed treatment until the medication is completely used, and then follow-up with your veterinarian for further advice. Some drugs, such as NSAIDs, are not indicated for rabbits that are suffering from renal (kidney) failure, and in fact could be placed at further health risk of administered the wrong drugs. You will need to make sure that your veterinarian is aware of your rabbit's health history, especially if your rabbit needs to be treated on an emergency basis and the animal caregiver is not familiar with your rabbit's background health. There are safer drug alternatives that can be just as effective. Rabbits that are treated promptly and effectively for trichobezoars have a good prognosis for a complete recovery. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/digestive/c_rb_trichobezoars The Girl Who Transformed Herself into a Hare Germany In Trent there formerly lived a girl who had inherited a witch's thong from her grandmother. Whenever she tied the thong around herself she would turn into a hare. In this form she often heckled a forester who lived in the vicinity. Whenever he would shoot at her, his bullets just glanced off her pelt. When he came to realize that there was something uncanny going on here, he loaded his flintlock with a coffin nail that he had somehow acquired. The next time he saw the hare, he shot it as it was running away. In an instant the hare disappeared, and the girl stood before him in its place. With tears she asked him for help, for she had a serious wound on her foot. In order to gain his sympathy, she confessed her evil power to the forester, promising never again to make use of it. For a time she kept her promise, but no sooner had her foot healed than she fell back into her old vices. Now her fiancé worked as a herdsman at a nearby estate, and she frequently made use of her thong in order to visit him often and undisturbed. Her fiancé knew nothing of her powers, and one day when she appeared before him as a hare -- for she had not yet had time to assume her human form -- he struck her with a water carrier. As a result she started to bleed profusely, and with tears she confessed to her fiancé what her situation was. He broke off his relationship with her. She remained lame for the rest of her life. It is said that the witch's thong was later buried in the grandmother's grave. Germany On two days a hunter from Freiburg saw a hare in Schlossberg Forest and shot at it.] Both times it stood still, looked mockingly at the man, only running away when the latter hurried toward it. The hunter presumed that he was dealing with witchcraft, so he loaded his gun with consecrated powder, then used this to shoot at the hare when he saw it a third time. Instead of a hare, a female personage was there, standing on her head and bleeding from a gunshot wound in her breast. When the hunter touched her, she fell to the ground dead. https://www.pitt.edu/~dash/type3055.html#haas Word of the week: Obligation © Copyrighted