Podcasts about treatment treatment

Podcast Show Notes: Scoliosis Treatment with Dr. Tony Nalda Episode Title: What Are the Different Types of Scoliosis? Episode Summary: Not all scoliosis is the same. While a diagnosis of “scoliosis” can sound straightforward, the type, cause, location, and severity of the curve make a huge difference in how it should be treated. In this episode of Scoliosis Treatment with Dr. Tony Nalda, we break down the different types of scoliosis, what causes them, and how these distinctions impact treatment decisions. If you or a loved one has been told, "You have scoliosis," this episode is essential for understanding what that truly means—and why personalized care is key to long-term success. Key Topics Covered: ✅ How Scoliosis Is Diagnosed: Defined as a sideways spinal curve of 10° or more, with rotation Measured using a Cobb angle on spinal X-rays Severity Categories: Mild: 10–25° Moderate: 25–40° Severe: 40°+ Very Severe: 80°+ ✅ Types of Scoliosis Based on Cause: Idiopathic Scoliosis (80% of cases): No clear cause; most common form Adolescent Idiopathic Scoliosis (AIS) is the most typical subtype Neuromuscular Scoliosis: Secondary to conditions like cerebral palsy, muscular dystrophy, or tethered cord Often linked to poor muscle tone or connective tissue dysfunction Congenital Scoliosis: Caused by malformations during fetal development, such as hemivertebrae Degenerative (De Novo) Scoliosis: Develops later in life due to asymmetrical spinal degeneration, often from old injuries or unresolved misalignments Traumatic Scoliosis: Caused by a severe injury, such as a fall or accident ✅ Types of Scoliosis Based on Curve Location: Cervical (Neck) Thoracic (Mid-Back) Lumbar (Lower Back) Thoracolumbar (Transitional Area) Multi-curve presentations such as double major or cervicothoracic scoliosis ✅ Why Curve Type and Cause Matter in Treatment: Treatment plans must consider: Causation (neuromuscular, congenital, idiopathic, etc.) Curve location Severity at diagnosis Age and growth stage These factors help determine whether a patient would benefit most from: Chiropractic-based conservative treatment Bracing Specialized exercises Therapy tailored to their unique curve pattern Key Takeaways: ➡️ Saying "you have scoliosis" is too vague—type, cause, and location all affect treatment strategy.➡️ Idiopathic scoliosis is the most common, but other types like neuromuscular or degenerative require very different approaches.➡️ Every scoliosis curve has the potential to progress—that's why addressing the structural problem early is essential.➡️ At Scoliosis Reduction Center, treatment plans are built around each patient's specific curve and contributing factors. Resources & Links:

Guest: Dr. Christian de Virgilio is the Chair of the Department of Surgery at Harbor-UCLA Medical Center. He is also Co-Chair of the College of Applied Anatomy and a Professor of Surgery at UCLA's David Geffen School of Medicine. He completed his undergraduate degree in Biology at Loyola Marymount University and earned his medical degree from UCLA. He then completed his residency in General Surgery at UCLA-Harbor Medical Center followed by a fellowship in Vascular Surgery at the Mayo Clinic.   Resources:  Rutherford Chapters (10th ed.): 174, 175, 177, 178 Prior Holding Pressure episode on AV access creation: https://www.audiblebleeding.com/vsite-hd-access/ The Society for Vascular Surgery: Clinical practice guidelines for the surgical placement and maintenance of arteriovenous hemodialysis access: https://www.jvascsurg.org/article/S0741-5214%2808%2901399-2/fulltext  KDOQI Clinical Practice Guideline for Vascular Access: 2019 Update: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/32778223/    Outline: Steal Syndrome Definition & Etiology Steal syndrome is an important complication of AV access creation, since access creation diverts arterial blood flow from the hand. Steal can be caused by multiple factors—arterial occlusive disease proximal or distal to the AV anastomosis, high flow through the fistula at the expense of distal arterial perfusion, and failure of the distal arterial networks to adapt to this decreased blood flow.  Incidence and Risk Factors The frequency of steal syndrome is 1.6-9%1,2, depending on the vessels and conduit choice Steal syndrome is more common with brachial and axillary artery-based accesses and nonautogenous conduits. Other risk factors for steal syndrome are peripheral vascular disease, coronary artery disease, diabetes, advanced age, female sex, larger outflow conduit, multiple prior permanent access procedures, and prior episodes of steal.3,4  Long-standing insulin-dependent diabetes causes both medial calcinosis and peripheral neuropathy, which limits arteries' ability to vasodilate and adjust to decreased blood flow. Patient Presentation, Symptoms, Grading Steal syndrome is diagnosed clinically.  Symptoms after AVG creation occurs within the first few days, since flow in prosthetic grafts tend to reach a maximum value very early after creation. Native AVFs take time to mature and flow will slowly increase overtime, leading to more insidious onset of symptoms that can take months or years. The patient should have a unilateral complaint in the extremity with the AV access. Symptoms of steal syndrome, in order of increasing severity, include nail changes, occasional tingling, extremity coolness, numbness in fingertips and hands, muscle weakness, rest pain, sensory and motor deficits, fingertip ulcerations, and tissue loss.  There could be a weakened radial pulse or weak Doppler signal on the affected side, and these will become stronger after compression of the AV outflow. Symptoms are graded on a scale specified by Society of Vascular Surgery (SVS) reporting standards:5  Workup Duplex ultrasound can be used to analyze flow volumes. A high flow volume (in autogenous accesses greater than 800 mL/min, in nonautogenous accesses greater than 1200 mL/min) signifies an outflow issue. The vein or graft is acting as a pressure sink and stealing blood from the distal artery. A low flow volume signifies an inflow issue, meaning that there is a proximal arterial lesion preventing blood from reaching the distal artery. Upper extremity angiogram can identify proximal arterial lesions. Prevention Create the AV access as distal as possible, in order to preserve arterial inflow to the hand and reduce the anastomosis size and outflow diameter.  SVS guidelines recommend a 4-6mm arteriotomy diameter to balance the need for sufficient access flow with the risk of steal. If a graft is necessary, tapered prosthetic grafts are sometimes used in patients with steal risk factors, using the smaller end of the graft placed at the arterial anastomosis, although this has not yet been proven to reduce the incidence of steal.  Indications for Treatment Intervention is recommended in lifestyle-limiting cases of Grade II and all Grade III steal cases. If left untreated, the natural history of steal syndrome can result in chronic limb ischemia, causing gangrene with loss of digits or limbs. Treatment Options Conservative management relies on observation and monitoring, as mild cases of steal syndrome may resolve spontaneously. Inflow stenosis can be treated with endovascular intervention (angioplasty with or without stent) Ligation is the simplest surgical treatment, and it results in loss of the AV access. This is preferred in patients with repetitive failed salvage attempts, venous hypertension, and poor prognoses. Flow limiting procedures can address high volumes through the AV access. Banding can be performed with surgical cutdown and placement of polypropylene sutures or a Dacron patch around the vein or graft. The Minimally Invasive Limited Ligation Endoluminal-Assisted Revision (MILLER) technique employs a percutaneous endoluminal balloon inflated at the AVF to ensure consistency in diameter while banding Plication is when a side-biting running stitch is used to narrow lumen of the vein near the anastomosis. A downside of flow-limiting procedures is that it is often difficult to determine how much to narrow the AV access, as these procedures carry a risk of outflow thrombosis. There are also surgical treatments focused on reroute arterial inflow. The distal revascularization and interval ligation (DRIL) procedure involves creation of a new bypass connecting arterial segments proximal and distal to the AV anastomosis, with ligation of the native artery between the AV anastomosis and the distal anastomosis of the bypass. Reversed saphenous vein with a diameter greater than 3mm is the preferred conduit. Arm vein or prosthetic grafts can be used if needed, but prosthetic material carries higher risk of thrombosis. The new arterial bypass creates a low resistance pathway that increases flow to distal arterial beds, and interval arterial ligation eliminates retrograde flow through the distal artery.  The major risk of this procedure is bypass thrombosis, which results in loss of native arterial flow and hand ischemia. Other drawbacks of DRIL include procedural difficulty with smaller arterial anastomoses, sacrifice of saphenous or arm veins, and decreased fistula flow. Another possible revision surgery is revision using distal inflow (RUDI). This procedure involves ligation of the fistula at the anastomosis and use of a conduit to connect the outflow vein to a distal artery. The selected distal artery can be the proximal radial or ulnar artery, depending on the preoperative duplex. The more dominant vessel should be spared, allowing for distal arterial beds to have uninterrupted antegrade perfusion. The nondominant vessel is used as distal inflow for the AV access. RUDI increases access length and decreases access diameter, resulting in increased resistance and lower flow volume through the fistula. Unlike DRIL, RUDI preserves native arterial flow.  Thrombosis of the conduit would put the fistula at risk, rather than the native artery.  The last surgical revision procedure for steal is proximalization of arterial inflow (PAI). In this procedure, the vein is ligated distal to the original anastomosis site and flow is re-established through the fistula with a PTFE interposition graft anastomosed end-to-side with the more proximal axillary artery and end-to-end with the distal vein. Similar to RUDI, PAI increases the length and decreases the diameter of the outflow conduit. Since the axillary artery has a larger diameter than the brachial artery, there is a less significant pressure drop across the arterial anastomosis site and less steal. PAI allows for preservation of native artery's continuity and does not require vein harvest.  Difficulties with PAI arise when deciding the length of the interposition graft to balance AV flow with distal arterial flow. 2. Ischemic Monomelic Neuropathy Definition Ischemic monomelic neuropathy (IMN) is a rare but serious form of steal that involves nerve ischemia. Severe sensorimotor dysfunction is experienced immediately after AV access creation. Etiology IMN affects blood flow to the nerves, but not the skin or muscles because peripheral nerve fibers are more vulnerable to ischemia. Incidence and Risk Factors IMN is very rare; it has an estimated incidence of 0.1-0.5% of AV access creations.6 IMN has only been reported in brachial artery-based accesses, since the brachial artery is the sole arterial inflow for distal arteries feeding all forearm nerves. IMN is associated with diabetes, peripheral vascular disease, and preexisting peripheral neuropathy that is associated with either of the conditions. Patient Presentation Symptoms usually present rapidly, within minutes to hours after AV access creation. The most common presenting symptom is severe, constant, and deep burning pain of the distal forearm and hand. Patients also report impairment of all sensation, weakness, and hand paralysis. Diagnosis of IMN can be delayed due to misattribution of symptoms to anesthetic blockade, postoperative pain, preexisting neuropathy, a heavily bandaged arm precluding neurologic examination. Treatment Treatment is immediate ligation of the AV access. Delay in treatment will quickly result in permanent sensorimotor loss.   3. Perigraft Seroma Definition A perigraft seroma is a sterile fluid collection surrounding a vascular prosthesis and is enclosed within a pseudomembrane. Etiology and Incidence Possible etiologies include: transudative movement of fluid through the graft material, serous fluid collection from traumatized connective tissues (especially the from higher adipose tissue content in the upper arm), inhibition of fibroblast growth with associated failure of the tissue to incorporate the graft, graft “wetting” or kinking during initial operation, increased flow rates, decreased hematocrit causing oncotic pressure difference, or allergy to graft material. Seromas most commonly form at anastomosis sites in the early postoperative period. Overall seroma incidence rates after AV graft placement range from 1.7–4% and are more common in grafts placed in the upper arm (compared to the forearm) and Dacron grafts (compared to PTFE grafts).7-9 Patient Presentation and Workup Physical exam can show a subcutaneous raised palpable fluid mass Seromas can be seen with ultrasound, but it is difficult to differentiate between the types of fluid around the graft (seroma vs. hematoma vs. abscess) Indications for Treatment Seromas can lead to wound dehiscence, pressure necrosis and erosion through skin, and loss of available puncture area for hemodialysis Persistent seromas can also serve as a nidus for infection. The Kidney Disease Outcomes Quality Initiative (KDOQI) guidelines10 recommend a tailored approach to seroma management, with more aggressive surgical interventions being necessary for persistent, infected-appearing, or late-developing seromas.   Treatment The majority of early postoperative seromas are self-limited and tend to resolve on their own Persistent seromas have been treated using a variety of  methods-- incision and evacuation of seroma, complete excision and replacement of the entire graft, and primary bypass of the involved graft segment only. Graft replacement with new material and rerouting through a different tissue plane has a higher reported cure rate and lower rate of infection than aspiration alone.9     4. Infection Incidence and Etiology The reported incidence of infection ranges 4-20% in AVG, which is significantly higher than the rate of infection of 0.56-5% in AVF.11  Infection can occur at the time of access creation (earliest presentation), after cannulation for dialysis (later infection), or secondary to another infectious source. Infection can also further complicate a pre-existing access site issue such as infection of a hematoma, thrombosed pseudoaneurysm, or seroma. Skin flora from frequent dialysis cannulations result in common pathogens being Staphylococcus, Pseudomonas, or polymicrobial species. Staphylococcus and Pseudomonas are highly virulent and likely to cause anastomotic disruption. Patient Presentation and Workup Physical exam will reveal warmth, pain, swelling, erythema, induration, drainage, or pus. Occasionally, patients have nonspecific manifestations of fever or leukocytosis. Ultrasound can be used to screen for and determine the extent of graft involvement by the infection.   Treatments In AV fistulas: Localized infection can usually be managed with broad spectrum antibiotics.  If there are bleeding concerns or infection is seen near the anastomosis site, the fistula should be ligated and re-created in a clean field. In AV grafts: If infection is localized, partial graft excision is acceptable. Total graft excision is recommended if the infection is present throughout the entire graft, involves the anastomoses, occludes the access, or contains particularly virulent organisms Total graft excision may also be indicated if a patient develops recurrent bacteremia with no other infectious source identified. For graft excision, the venous end of the graft is removed and the vein is oversewn or ligated. If the arterial anastomosis is intact, a small cuff of the graft can be left behind and oversewn. If the arterial anastomosis is involved, the arterial wall must be debrided and ligation, reconstruction with autogenous patch angioplasty, or arterial bypass can be pursued. References   1. Morsy AH, Kulbaski M, Chen C, Isiklar H, Lumsden AB. Incidence and Characteristics of Patients with Hand Ischemia after a Hemodialysis Access Procedure. J Surg Res. 1998;74(1):8-10. doi:10.1006/jsre.1997.5206 2. Ballard JL, Bunt TJ, Malone JM. Major complications of angioaccess surgery. Am J Surg. 1992;164(3):229-232. doi:10.1016/S0002-9610(05)81076-1 3. Valentine RJ, Bouch CW, Scott DJ, et al. Do preoperative finger pressures predict early arterial steal in hemodialysis access patients? A prospective analysis. J Vasc Surg. 2002;36(2):351-356. doi:10.1067/mva.2002.125848 4. Malik J, Tuka V, Kasalova Z, et al. Understanding the Dialysis access Steal Syndrome. A Review of the Etiologies, Diagnosis, Prevention and Treatment Strategies. J Vasc Access. 2008;9(3):155-166. doi:10.1177/112972980800900301 5. Sidawy AN, Gray R, Besarab A, et al. Recommended standards for reports dealing with arteriovenous hemodialysis accesses. J Vasc Surg. 2002;35(3):603-610. doi:10.1067/mva.2002.122025 6. Thermann F, Kornhuber M. Ischemic Monomelic Neuropathy: A Rare but Important Complication after Hemodialysis Access Placement - a Review. J Vasc Access. 2011;12(2):113-119. doi:10.5301/JVA.2011.6365 7. Dauria DM, Dyk P, Garvin P. Incidence and Management of Seroma after Arteriovenous Graft Placement. J Am Coll Surg. 2006;203(4):506-511. doi:10.1016/j.jamcollsurg.2006.06.002 8. Gargiulo NJ, Veith FJ, Scher LA, Lipsitz EC, Suggs WD, Benros RM. Experience with covered stents for the management of hemodialysis polytetrafluoroethylene graft seromas. J Vasc Surg. 2008;48(1):216-217. doi:10.1016/j.jvs.2008.01.046 9. Blumenberg RM, Gelfand ML, Dale WA. Perigraft seromas complicating arterial grafts. Surgery. 1985;97(2):194-204. 10. Lok CE, Huber TS, Lee T, et al. KDOQI Clinical Practice Guideline for Vascular Access: 2019 Update. Am J Kidney Dis. 2020;75(4):S1-S164. doi:10.1053/j.ajkd.2019.12.001 11. Padberg FT, Calligaro KD, Sidawy AN. Complications of arteriovenous hemodialysis access: Recognition and management. J Vasc Surg. 2008;48(5):S55-S80. doi:10.1016/j.jvs.2008.08.067

Episode 173: Acute OsteomyelitisFuture Dr. Tran explains the pathophysiology of osteomyelitis and describes the presentation, diagnosis and management of acute osteomyelitis. Dr. Arreaza provides information about    Written by Di Tran, MSIII, Ross University School of Medicine. Editing and comments by Hector Arreaza, MD.You are listening to Rio Bravo qWeek Podcast, your weekly dose of knowledge brought to you by the Rio Bravo Family Medicine Residency Program from Bakersfield, California, a UCLA-affiliated program sponsored by Clinica Sierra Vista, Let Us Be Your Healthcare Home. This podcast was created for educational purposes only. Visit your primary care provider for additional medical advice.What is osteomyelitis?Osteomyelitis, in simple terms, is an infectious disease that affects both bone and bone marrow and is either acute or chronic.  According to archaeological findings of animal fossils with a bone infection, osteomyelitis was more than likely to be known as a “disease for old individuals”.Our ancestors over the years have used various vocabulary terms to describe this disease until a French surgeon, Dr. Nelaton, came up with the term “Osteomyelitis” in 1844. This is the beauty of medical terms, Latin sounds complicated for some people, but if you break up the term, it makes sense: Osteo = bone, myelo = marrow, itis = inflammation. So, inflammation of the bone marrow.Traditionally, osteomyelitis develops from 3 different sources:First category is the “hematOgenous” spread of the infection within the bloodstream, as in bacteremia. It is more frequent in children and long bones are usually affected. [Arreaza: it means that the infection started somewhere else but it got “planted” in the bones]Second route is “direct inoculation” of bacteria from the contiguous site of infection “without vascular insufficiency”, or trauma, which may occur secondary to fractures or surgery in adults.  In elderly patients, the infection may be related to decubitus ulcers and joint replacements.And the third route is the “contiguous” infection “with vascular insufficiency”, most seen in a patient with a diabetic foot infection.Patients with vascular insufficiency often have compromised blood supply to the lower extremities, and poor circulation impairs healing. In these situations, infection often occurs in small bones of the feet with minimal to no pain due to neuropathy.They can have ulcers, as well as paronychia, cellulitis, or puncture wounds.Thus, the importance of treating onychomycosis in diabetes because the fungus does not cause a lot of problems by itself, but it can cause breaks in the nails that can be a port of entry for bacteria to cause severe infections. Neuropathy is an important risk factor because of the loss of protective sensation. Frequently, patients may step on a foreign object and not feel it until there is swelling, purulent discharge, and redness, and they come to you because it “does not look good.”Acute osteomyelitis often takes place within 2 weeks of onset of the disease, and the main histopathological findings are microorganisms, congested blood vessels, and polymorphonuclear leukocytes, or neutrophilic infiltrates.What are the bugs that cause osteomyelitis?Pathogens in osteomyelitis are heavily depended on the patient's age.  Staph. aureus is the most common culprit of acute hematogenous osteomyelitis in children and adults.  Then comes Group A Strep., Strep. pneumoniae, Pseudomonas, Kingella, and methicillin-resistant Staph. aureus.  In newborns, we have Group B Streptococcal. Less common pathogens are associated with certain clinical presentations, including Aspergillus, Mycobacterium tuberculosis, and Candida in the immunocompromised.Salmonella species can be found in patients with sickle cell disease, Bartonella species in patients with HIV infection, and Pasteurella or Eikenella species from human or animal bites.It is important to gather a complete medical history of the patient, such as disorders that may put them at risk of osteomyelitis, such as diabetes, malnutrition, smoking, peripheral or coronary artery disease, immune deficiencies, IV drug use, prosthetic joints, cancer, and even sickle cell anemia. Those pieces of information can guide your assessment and plan.What is the presentation of osteomyelitis?Acute osteomyelitis may present symptoms over a few days from onset of infection but usually is within a 2-week window period.  Adults will develop local symptoms of erythema, swelling, warmth, and dull pain at the site of infection with or without systemic symptoms of fever or chills.Children will also be present with lethargy or irritability in addition to the symptoms already mentioned.It may be challenging to diagnose osteomyelitis at the early stages of infection, but you must have a high level of suspicion in patients with high risks. A thorough physical examination sometimes will show other significant findings of soft tissue infection, bony tenderness, joint effusion, decreased ROM, and even exposed bone. Diagnosis.As a rule of thumb, the gold standard for the diagnosis of osteomyelitis is bone biopsy with histopathology findings and tissue culture. There is leukocytosis, but then WBC counts can be normal even in the setting of acute osteomyelitis.Inflammatory markers (CRP, ESR) are often elevated although both have very low specificity. Blood cultures should always be obtained whenever osteomyelitis is suspected.  A bone biopsy should also be performed for definitive diagnosis, and specimens should undergo both aerobic and anaerobic cultures.  In cases of osteomyelitis from diabetic foot infection, do the “probe to bone” test. What we do is we use a sterile steel probe to detect bone which is helpful for osteomyelitis confirmation.Something that we can't miss out on is radiographic imaging, which is quite important for the evaluation of osteomyelitis.  Several modalities are useful and can be used for the work-up plan; plain radiographs often are the very first step in the assessment due to their feasibility, low cost, and safety.  Others are bone scintigraphy, CT-scan, and MRI.  In fact, the MRI is widely used and provides better information for early detection of osteomyelitis than other imaging modalities.  It can detect necrotic bone, sinus tracts, and even abscesses. We look for soft tissue swelling, cortical bone loss, active bone resorption and remodeling, and periosteal reaction.  Oftentimes, plain radiography and MRI are used in combination. Treatment:Treatment of osteomyelitis actually is a teamwork effort among various medical professionals, including the primary care provider, the radiologist, the vascular, the pharmacist, the podiatrist, an infectious disease specialist, orthopedic surgeons, and the wound care team.Something to take into consideration, if the patient is hemodynamically stable it is highly recommended to delay empirical antibiotic treatment 48-72 hours until a bone biopsy is obtained.  The reason is that with percutaneous biopsy ideally done before the initiation of antibiotic treatment, “the microbiological yield will be higher”.We'll have a better idea of what particular bugs are causing the problem and guide the treatment appropriately. The choice of antibiotic therapy is strongly determined by susceptibilities results.  The antibiotic given will be narrowed down only for the targeted susceptible organisms.  In the absence of such information, or when a hospitalized patient presents with an increased risk for MRSA infection, empiric antibiotic coverage is then administered while awaiting culture results. It should be broad-spectrum antibiotics and include coverage for MRSA, broad gram-negative and anaerobic bacteria.  For example, vancomycin plus piperacillin-tazobactam, or with broad-spectrum cephalosporin plus clindamycin.  Treatment will typically be given for 4 to 6 weeks.The duration between 4-6 weeks is important for complete healing, but a small study with a small sample showed that an even shorter duration of 3 weeks may be effective, but more research is needed. In certain situations, surgery is necessary to preserve viable tissue and prevent recurrent infection, especially when there are deep abscesses, necrosis, or gangrene, amputation or debridement is deemed appropriate. If the infected bone is completely removed, patients may need a shorter course of antibiotics, even a few days only. Amputation can be very distressing, especially when we need to remove large pieces of infected bone, for example, a below-the-knee amputation. We need to be sensitive to the patient's feelings and make a shared decision about the best treatment for them.In patients with diabetes, additional care must be taken seriously, patient education about the need for compliance with treatment recommendations, with careful wound care, and good glycemic control are all beneficial for the healing and recovery process. Because this is a very common problem in the clinic and at the hospital, we must keep our eyes wide open and carefully assess patients with suspected osteomyelitis to detect it promptly and start appropriate treatment. Adequate and timely treatment is linked to fewer complications and better outcomes._________________________Conclusion: Now we conclude episode number 173, “Acute Osteomyelitis.” Future Dr. Tran explained the pathophysiology, diagnosis, and management of osteomyelitis. A bone biopsy is the ideal method of diagnosis. Delaying antibiotic treatment a few days until you get a biopsy is allowed if the patient is stable, but if the patient is unstable, antibiotics must be started promptly. Dr. Arreaza mentioned the implications of amputation and that we must discuss this treatment empathically with our patients. This week we thank Hector Arreaza and Di Tran. Audio editing by Adrianne Silva.Even without trying, every night you go to bed a little wiser. Thanks for listening to Rio Bravo qWeek Podcast. We want to hear from you, send us an email at RioBravoqWeek@clinicasierravista.org, or visit our website riobravofmrp.org/qweek. See you next week! _____________________References:Bury DC, Rogers TS, Dickman MM. Osteomyelitis: Diagnosis and Treatment. Am Fam Physician. 2021 Oct 1;104(4):395-402. PMID: 34652112.Cunha BA. Osteomyelitis in elderly patients. Clin Infect Dis. 2002 Aug 1;35(3):287-93. doi: 10.1086/341417. Epub 2002 Jul 11. PMID: 12115094.Fritz JM, McDonald JR. Osteomyelitis: approach to diagnosis and treatment. Phys Sportsmed. 2008 Dec;36(1):nihpa116823. doi: 10.3810/psm.2008.12.11. PMID: 19652694; PMCID: PMC2696389.Hatzenbuehler J, Pulling TJ. Diagnosis and management of osteomyelitis. Am Fam Physician. 2011 Nov 1;84(9):1027-33. PMID: 22046943.Hofstee MI, Muthukrishnan G, Atkins GJ, Riool M, Thompson K, Morgenstern M, Stoddart MJ, Richards RG, Zaat SAJ, Moriarty TF. Current Concepts of Osteomyelitis: From Pathologic Mechanisms to Advanced Research Methods. Am J Pathol. 2020 Jun;190(6):1151-1163. doi: 10.1016/j.ajpath.2020.02.007. Epub 2020 Mar 16. PMID: 32194053.Momodu II, Savaliya V. Osteomyelitis. [Updated 2023 May 31]. In: StatPearls [Internet]. Treasure Island (FL): StatPearls Publishing; 2024 Jan-. Available from: https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/books/NBK532250/Royalty-free music used for this episode: Trap Chiller by Gushito, downloaded on Nov 06, 2023, from https://www.videvo.net 

Choleliths, commonly known as gallstones, in cats refer to the formation of solid material within the gallbladder. These stones can vary in size and composition, sometimes causing health issues for the affected cat.Here are some key points about choleliths in cats:Formation: Choleliths can develop due to imbalances in the components of bile, such as cholesterol, bilirubin, and calcium salts. The exact cause isn't always clear, but factors like genetics, diet, and certain medical conditions can contribute.Symptoms: Cats with choleliths might show signs of abdominal discomfort, vomiting, decreased appetite, and jaundice (yellowing of the skin and eyes). In some cases, they might not display any obvious symptoms until complications arise.Diagnosis: A veterinarian might suspect choleliths based on the cat's symptoms and perform diagnostic tests such as ultrasound, X-rays, or blood work to confirm the presence of gallstones.Treatment: Treatment options can vary based on the size and severity of the choleliths. In some cases, dietary management or medications might be recommended to dissolve smaller stones. Surgical removal of the gallbladder (cholecystectomy) might be necessary for larger stones or cases with complications.Prevention: Preventative measures often involve dietary changes aimed at reducing the formation of gallstones. This might include a special diet low in fat or specific nutrients that contribute to stone formation.Choleliths can pose serious health risks if they cause blockages or lead to inflammation or infection of the gallbladder. Therefore, prompt veterinary attention is crucial if a cat shows any signs of potential gallbladder issues.

Respiratory syncytial virus (RSV) is a common virus that can cause respiratory infections in people of all ages, including pregnant women. RSV infections are more prevalent during the fall and winter months. While RSV infections are usually mild and cold-like in healthy adults, they can lead to more severe respiratory symptoms in certain populations, including young infants and individuals with weakened immune systems. In the context of pregnancy, RSV infections are generally considered a concern primarily because of the potential impact on the health of the mother and the developing fetus. Here are some key points to consider regarding RSV in pregnancy: Risks to the Pregnant Woman: Pregnant women may be at a slightly increased risk of developing severe RSV-related symptoms compared to non-pregnant individuals. Symptoms of an RSV infection in adults can include fever, cough, congestion, and shortness of breath. Severe cases may require hospitalization. Risks to the Fetus: RSV infections in pregnant women do not typically cause direct harm to the fetus, such as birth defects. However, severe respiratory infections in the mother can potentially reduce the oxygen supply to the fetus, which could be problematic in rare cases. There is some evidence to suggest that maternal RSV infection may be associated with an increased risk of preterm birth. Prevention: Pregnant women can take steps to reduce their risk of RSV infection, such as practicing good hand hygiene, avoiding close contact with individuals who are sick, and following respiratory etiquette (covering mouth and nose when coughing or sneezing). There is a medication called palivizumab (Synagis) that can be given to certain high-risk infants to help prevent severe RSV disease, but it is not typically recommended for pregnant women. Treatment: Treatment for RSV infection in pregnant women is generally supportive, focusing on managing symptoms and maintaining adequate hydration. Pregnant women with severe symptoms may require hospitalization for oxygen therapy and other interventions. It's important for pregnant women to consult with their healthcare providers if they develop symptoms of a respiratory infection like RSV, especially if the symptoms are severe or persistent. Healthcare professionals can provide guidance on appropriate management and treatment. As with any health concern during pregnancy, it's essential to follow the advice and recommendations of your healthcare provider to ensure the health and well-being of both the mother and the developing fetus.   Your feedback is essential to us! We would love to hear from you. Please consider leaving us a review on your podcast platform or sending us an email at info@maternalresources.org. Your input helps us tailor our content to better serve the needs of our listeners. For additional resources and information, be sure to visit our website at Maternal Resources: https://www.maternalresources.org/. You can also connect with us on our social channels to stay up-to-date with the latest news, episodes, and community engagement: Twitter: https://twitter.com/integrativeob YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/maternalresources Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/integrativeobgyn/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/IntegrativeOB Thank you for being part of our community, and until next time, let's continue to support, uplift, and celebrate the incredible journey of working moms and parenthood. Together, we can create a more equitable and nurturing world for all.

Lack of involuntary treatment, hospital bed shortages, anosognosia, criminalization of mental illness, public service costs…Where do we turn when we need to change the system of mental illness treatment? How to break open the barriers? How do we advocate for change?The Treatment Advocacy Center is a national 501(c)3 nonprofit organization dedicated to eliminating legal and other barriers to the timely and effective treatment of severe mental illness.  The organization promotes laws, policies and practices for the delivery of psychiatric care and supports the development of innovative treatments for and research into the causes of severe and persistent psychiatric illnesses, such as schizophrenia and bipolar disorder. The Stanley Medical Research Institute is a fully integrated supporting organization to the Treatment Advocacy Center. Ex. Dir. Lisa Dailey , Treatment Advocacy Center -Lisa Dailey is the executive director of the Treatment Advocacy Center, leading an energetic team to improve state and federal civil commitment laws and promote evidence-based policies to positively affect those with severe mental illness. Lisa joined the Treatment Advocacy Center in 2015, bringing many years of nonprofit policy and advocacy experience. Her prior work includes the representation of refugees seeking asylum in the United States and many years of experience as a litigator in the areas of human rights and civil liberties.Lisa's personal story about why she advocates for people with serious mental illnessWhat are the main issues facing those with serious mental illness and their families? -Why was the Treatment Advocacy Center (TAC) started? How has it evolved?An inside glimpse of Dr. E. Fuller Torrey, TAC's founder, author ofSurviving SchizophreniaWhat has TAC had the most success with? (Thank you for your advocacy to ensure people like our sons could get COVID vaccines.) What has been hardest?Tell us about TAC's Grading the States. We're from Connecticut, Minnesota and Washington.What is TAC's relationship with NAMI?Recently hired a parent advocate, Kathy Day. What will she be doing that is new to TAC?Links:Twitter: @lisadaileyTAC Sign up for Research Weekly, new legislative Advocacy newsletter, morehttps://www.treatmentadvocacycenter.org/ Who Are the 3 Moms?Want us to cover a topic? Ask us a question? Facebook page @Schizophrenia3MomsRandye Kaye -Broadcaster, Actress, Voice Talent, Speaker, and Author (“Ben Behind his Voices”)Miriam Feldman – Artist, Mom, Author “He Came in With It”Mindy Greiling – member of the Minnesota House of Representatives for twenty years. Activist, Legislator, Author (“Fix What You Can“)    

Thank you for joining us for today's livestream where we talked about the best non-surgical approach to treating back pain. We're going to go through what back pain is, what treatments we do that are non-surgical and are effective at treating back pain, and also tie this treatment into some exercises that mimics the treatment you can do at home! Don't forget you can: ⭐ Join Back In Shape here for free [no CC required]

Vaccines vs. Treatment -Treatment vs. Prevention -Treatment is not curative – examples are HTN, anti-diabetic medications, anti-asthma medications -New options are antibody serum, gene PCR techniques -Prevention – examples are vaccines, gene transformations -Vaccine manufacturing process -Production technologies – using flu vaccine as an example -Egg-based -Cell based -Recombinant -https://www.cdc.gov/flu/prevent/how-fluvaccine-made.htm -Coronavirus vaccine -Exploratory stage (2-4yrs) -Pre-clinical stage – animal tests 1-2 yrs. -Clinical development – ca. 30% make it -Regulatory review and approval – sign off by FDA and CDC -Manufacturing – FDA inspects factory and drug labels -Quality control – quality control review for safet -Vaccine manufacture -Vaccines are an antigen or foreign body that causes a reaction when introduced into the body. Foreign antigens illicit antibodies that fight the antigen. -Live virus -Inactivated virus -Vaccine composed of a part of the virus -Bacterial vaccines _____ Make sure to subscribe to get the latest episode. Contact Us: Pharmacy Benefit News: http://www.propharmaconsultants.com/pbn.html Email: info@propharmaconsultants.com Website: http://www.propharmaconsultants.com/ Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/propharmainc Twitter: https://twitter.com/ProPharma/ Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/propharmainc/ LinkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/company/pro-pharma-pharmaceutical-consultants-inc/ Podcast: https://anchor.fm/pro-pharma-talks

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Breeding Rabbits Definitions A female rabbit is called a doe. A male rabbit is called a buck. When referring to the parents of a rabbit, the mother is called the dam, and the father is called the sire. When you mate two rabbits together, this is called breeding. When you check to see if the doe is pregnant or when you breed her again before she is due to give birth, this is called testing. When you put a box in the hutch that is lined with hay, this is called nesting. When the doe gives birth, this is called kindling. The period of time between breeding and kindling is called the gestation period. She gives birth to a bunch of bunnies called kits. This bunch of bunnies is called a litter. When you take the young rabbits away from the mother, this is called weaning. Breeding Plan - Discuss This With Your Parents! Before we begin to discuss breeding rabbits, it is important to understand that there are several reasons NOT to breed your rabbits. Some of these are very good reasons. If you are a beginning rabbit owner, or have rabbits as pets only, there are a lot more justifications for NOT breeding your rabbit than to go ahead with it! One major consideration when deciding to breed any animals is the overpopulation of pets in general. Some others include the extra expense, health considerations of your animals, and having to find homes for young rabbits you cannot keep. However, if you are an experienced rabbit raiser (or you are a beginner with help), have sound knowledge of rabbit care and health, and want to produce rabbits for showing, meat, or fiber, then it could be an excellent decision to start a breeding program, or at least try it out! Determine the best time to start your breeding program! Be sure your rabbits are healthy. Choose the rabbits you wish to breed. Another wise thing to do when just starting out is to contact a breeder that raises your chosen breed, and offer to purchase a pregnant doe from him or her. Ask to have her bred to one of the breeder’s best bucks, although with an increase in quality comes an increase in price. It can be a great investment though, and get you started with young rabbits you know were bred well. When To Breed There is a reason for the expression, “breeds like a rabbit!” Rabbits are notoriously fertile from a young age, and easy to breed. Their young grow quickly, and the mothers and young do not require a lot of human intervention, for the most part. However, in order to ensure the health of your animals, it is prudent to wait until they reach full body and reproductive maturity before breeding. There are four main weight classes of rabbits: small, medium, large, and giant breeds. The age at which the rabbit is ready to reproduce depends highly on the maximum weight they are expected to achieve as an adult. Smaller breeds tend to sexually mature faster than the larger breeds. The general rule for the proper age to begin breeding at is as follows: Small breeds (under 6 pounds max) – 4 ½ months Medium to Large Breeds (6-11 pounds max) – 6 months Giant Breeds (Over 11 pounds max) – 9 months Also in general, bucks tend to be about a month behind does in maturing. So, if you want to mate a purebred Polish buck and doe, she might be ready at 4 ½ months of age to reproduce, but it would be advisable to wait until he is closer to 6 months of age. Waiting is worth it – your animals will be much more productive, or perhaps “reproductive,” if you are patient and wait until they’re really ready! Health Check And Signs That A Doe Is Ready For Breeding It is important to check each rabbit before breeding to be sure that the rabbit is healthy and in good physical condition. The weight should be appropriate for the sex and breed of your rabbit. Never breed your rabbit if it shows signs of a sickness or illness. If a doe is ready to breed, they will begin to rub their chin on their food dish to mark their territory. Before breeding, check the bottom of the cage of both the doe and buck for evidence of diarrhea or loose stools. Do not breed the rabbit having this condition until it has been adequately treated. Also check the genitals of both rabbits for any signs of disease or infection (for example, extreme redness, discharge, sores or scabbiness). A good reference is the ARBA Official Guidebook section on diseases. Selecting Breed Pairs You should know as much as possible about the rabbit you are choosing to breed. It is more likely to pass on good traits with two healthy and qualified rabbits. Check the pedigree background for the rabbit’s strong points; such as strong shoulder, good body, and excellent type. It's usually a good idea to select rabbits to breed whose ancestry has evidence of good productivity and good genetics. That is where productivity records and pedigrees listing show winnings come in handy. Keep productivity and show records of your herd just for this purpose. Only mate rabbits of the same breed. Exceptions to this include breeding for meat, pets or genetic experimentation. You cannot sell a pedigree rabbit that has mixed blood in its background going back 4 generations. It is advisable to breed only purebred, pedigreed rabbits. The main reason for this is because pedigreed rabbits have documented bloodlines, characteristics, and a general history you can look back on that will help you better predict the outcome of the breeding you have planned. When breeding two rabbits of unknown heritage, there is a much bigger potential for birthing problems and genetic defects. It is also easier to find homes and interested buyers for well-bred stock. Be advised though, that even having two purebred, pedigreed rabbits does not ensure a good cross – the goal should always be for the animals to out-produce themselves. The hope is that the offspring will be of better quality and meet the ideal of the breed standard more closely than their parents. Therefore, you must carefully evaluate your pairing to make sure the rabbits complement one another in confirmation (body type) and if it matters to the breed, color and markings as well. Choose the rabbits based on their strengths and weaknesses. A buck with strong shoulders would be matched with a doe with weak shoulders but good size. Try to offset any weaknesses with strengths. Try not to put two weak features together since that will only fix the weak feature in the blood line. Who Can Be Bred To Whom? Never breed brothers to sisters. Other combinations are fine: father-to-daughter, mother-to-son, cousins, etc. Until you gain some knowledge as to how genetics works with inbreeding, I would recommend your not breeding closely related pairs. As mentioned before, mate the same breeds together unless you are trying to get meat rabbits with certain characteristics or you are doing genetic experiments or you don't care about the fate of the offspring. You cannot sell the offspring as pedigree if their ancestry is not of the same breed going back four generations. You may mate rabbits of the same breed having different colors. Keep in mind, though, that there are many combinations of possibilities when mixing colors. Some of the offspring may have colors that are not recognized by ARBA. It is usually best to mate rabbits having the same color to start off with until you know more about how the colors interact. You can also, join the national specialty group for the breed you are interested in raising. They usually have literature on how to develop the best color, size, and shape of your rabbit. Avoid breeding rabbits that have genetic defects such as tooth malocclusion (wolf teeth) or moon eye (cloudy cornea), or produces offspring whose skull does not come together (except in dwarfs, where approximately 25% are born too small with deformed head or legs - the offspring are called peanuts). Determine whether the sire or dam is responsible for passing the genetic defect and eliminate it for breeding purposes. Strive to meet the perfect standard for the breed you are mating. You can order the ARBA Standard of Perfection Booklet to know exactly what is expected of the breed. Gauging Interest Rabbits have a reputation for being ready to breed all the time. This is not necessarily the case! Bucks are typically a bit more consistently ready. You can tell that your buck is interested in mating when he starts vigorously sniffing around a table you’ve just placed a doe on moments ago, or if through cages, the buck begins acting more excited and slightly aggressive when he smells a neighboring doe. He may also begin acting amorous toward other objects when he is out and about! Does, however, are not quite as obvious about expressing their desires. A doe rabbit is atypical from most mammals, as she is polyestrous, meaning she has no regular heat cycles. The eggs of a female rabbit are not shed at regular intervals – instead, ovulation is stimulated by mating. This offers the breeder a lot of flexibility in terms of what time of year and how frequently they will breed members of their herd. Some signs that a doe may be more willing to breed are restlessness, and “chinning,” which is the act of her rubbing her chin on the cage or piece of equipment inside the cage. Mating Process Because does are not as willing to breed and they are very territorial, you always bring the doe to the male’s cage. If the doe does not show interest in mating after ten minutes, you should take her out of the cage and try again in a couple days. When ready to breed the doe, take it to the buck's cage. Never bring the buck to the doe's cage. The reason for this is that the buck has less tendency to breed in the doe's cage. He's too busy sniffing around the cage. Most often, rabbit mating is a quick and painless process, requiring little to no assistance on the part of their human handlers. When you are ready to have the doe bred, the most important thing to remember is to bring the doe to the buck’s cage – NOT the other way around. Sexually mature does are incredibly territorial, and can do severe damage to a buck that suddenly enters her territory. It only helps to have good equipment. A wire cage, that open from the front and are all wire allow for easy access and easy monitoring. Most often, once the doe is placed in the cage housing the buck, he will circle her briefly, and then mount her. If she is receptive, she will lift her tail for him. Keep a close eye on both rabbits, to ensure that the doe remains on good behavior. Be ready to remove her immediately if she starts growling or even attacking the buck. Try to breed at least two does on the same day, hopefully from different breeds or colors. This way you can move babies from litters around if we need to foster any kits. Having different breeds or different colors in the nest box makes it easier to see who came from which litter. If the doe runs around in a circle, this is not so bad. I’ll let her run a few laps then I’ll put my hand in the cage and stop her for the buck to breed her. Most of the time the doe will accept the buck. If the doe sits down or tries to climb the sides of the cage, I’ll wait for 5 minutes . If she won’t stand still and accept the buck, I’ll take the doe out and try her again in a few hours or the next day. And the next day if necessary. If she doesn’t accept the buck, I will wait for the next week to try her again. A really good sign is when the buck gives a grunt when he’s done doing his thing, and falls off of the doe onto his side. Once this has occurred, it is wise to get the doe out of there. Although some bucks are more aggressive than others, they will rarely hurt the doe. If you do not see the ritual just described take place within a minute or so of placing them together, and it looks like they are getting along, you can leave the doe in there for a few minutes to see what will happen. If you’re not sure if the mating was successful, it is a good idea to try again anywhere from 6 to 10 hours later, and simply repeat what you did the first time. If you are unsure about whether or not a successful breeding took place, you can carefully introduce the doe to the buck again in about 7-10 days. If she is uninterested in him, or acts grouchy, she is probably pregnant. The buck will breed with the doe, usually immediately. After a few sniffs which apprise him of the situation, the buck promptly circles around to the hind end of the doe, mounts the doe, accomplishes the rabbit mating, and then falls off the doe with a grunt. Signs of success: the grunt and fall-off. The buck might also get all macho, and thump the cage floor a couple times. A second rabbit mating before removing the doe seems to increase the success rate and litter size. Just leave the doe in the cage. The buck will catch his breath, lose interest in thumping the floor, and regain interest in the doe. He’ll remount her, she’ll lift her hind end, and a second mating will occur. Some breeders like to see a third breeding. And frequently a third breeding might take place during the half-hour we leave the buck and doe together. But we are usually satisfied with two matings. Remove the doe to her cage. Toss hay into her cage, and a little bit of black oil sunflower seeds (BOSS) or whole oats into the feeder as a reward. There’s another reason too: to keep her mind off the condition of her bladder. She’ll go straight to the feeder or to the hay, instead of heading to the back of her cage where her toilet area is. It's just one more trick to give the doe the best chance at a big litter. Some leave the doe with the buck overnight. Others put the doe in, watch it, and when they have mated, remove the doe. If you do the latter, put the doe back in with the buck 1 to 12 hours after the initial breeding. This will increase the likelihood of pregnancy and may increase the number of offspring. Although in most temperate climates, most rabbits will willingly mate year-round, cold weather does tend to put a damper on their libido. Some rabbits aren’t affected, but females especially seem to be less receptive to the males during the winter months. Providing a heat lamp on the doe a day or two before mating, extending the daylight hours in your rabbitry with artificial light, or keeping her cage located next to a window with lots of light can help with this. Keep in mind also, that the better overall condition your animals are in, the better breeders they will be. Try to avoid mating bucks and does that are molting their coats, or are experiencing weak or thin flesh condition. Rabbit Mating: What do you do when the doe doesn't cooperate with the buck? In my area, late autumn is when does want to just hunker into the corner of the buck's cage, and no amount of sweet-talking or complaining on the buck's part can coax cooperation out of the doe. Here are a few tricks that might help convince the doe: Retry the rabbit mating in a day or two. The doe may be ready then. Check the weather forecast. If the doe spurned an attempt at rabbit mating, you could plan to re-try the breeding when the barometer is rising or the temperature is warming. This works some of the time. You could try swapping cages. Put the buck in the doe's cage, and the doe in the buck's cage for an overnight stay. In the morning, or when you return to the animals, put the doe back into her own cage where the buck is waiting. She may be willing this time, since she is now familiar with the buck's scent. If the doe's tail begins to twitch, or if the doe begins circling to mount the buck, the doe is 'in the mood,' even if she circles the buck's cage at first. After Mating The doe may become very cranky over the next few days. This is okay! Do give her space. Leave her in her cage. Leave her alone, if this is what she wants. Always be sure to put the doe back to her cage where she is going to kindle. After 14 days into the pregnancy, you can use a stethoscope to listen for the heartbeats. If your doe is pregnant, you can expect the babies to be born in 28 to 32 days. Palpating can be done 10 days after mating in her cage to make it less stressful. At 3 weeks or more you may see an increase in the size of your doe’s belly. You may keep a ratio of one buck to 10 does if you wish. The buck may be bred up to 7 times a week effectively. Sometimes, you can use the buck twice in one day. The most I use a buck is twice a week. Palpating It can be frustrating to find that you waited nearly an entire month, and your female rabbit was never pregnant! You can avoid some of this wait time by palpating your doe 10-14 days after mating to see if you can feel any babies. Learning to palpate takes a little practice. Older does are easier to practice on than first litter does, as their muscles are a bit more relaxed, and they are generally more patient. Take the doe out of her cage and place her on a carpeted table. With one hand, grasp the doe over the shoulders and take the other hand with the thumb and fingers opposing each other push up into the abdomen just in front of the pelvis. This can feel awkward at first, and most people don’t want to push hard enough to actually feel anything. Enough pressure can be used to raise the doe's hindquarters nearly off the table. People who fail at palpation usually do so out of fear of hurting the doe her babies. The chances of that happening are very slim. Each embryo is cushioned in its own amniotic sac, so what you are actually feeling is the fluid filled amnion-not the embryo itself. Once you are secure in your position, move your hand back and forth along each side of the abdomen and slightly towards the middle. At 10 days, the embryo feels like a firm blueberry. At 12 days, they feel more like marbles, and at 14 days, they should feel more like large grapes or olives. Once you feel an embryo or two, it is wise to stop and pet the doe, and let her go back to her home. The entire procedure takes only seconds to perform once you know how. A common palpation mistake occurs when people confuse the round fecal pellets for embryos. Confusion can be avoided by remembering that the fecal pellets are small, very hard, and are found closer to the backbone, while embryos are found about midway into the abdominal cavity. If you squeeze these pellets instead of embryos, they will feel very hard, almost like rocks. Developing babies have more of a firm-fruit feel. Care Of Pregnant Doe Make sure the doe has plenty of fresh water and food in a clean house. Do not over feed your doe during the early stages of pregnancy. Keep a calendar and accurate records of the day you breed the doe. You should test her for pregnancy between the 10th and 14th day after the initial breeding. There are two ways to do this. The overall preferred method is to palpate the lower abdomen of the doe with your thumb and forefinger checking for nodules about the size of a marble. The other method is not only more risky but also more inaccurate, and not recommended. This method is to mate the doe with the buck again. This can cause problems because the doe has two uterine horns, each of which can carry babies. It is possible for one horn to be fertilized on the first mating and the second to be fertilized on the second mating. This will create a hormonal imbalance and cause the babies in both uteri to not form right, causing her to pass blobs instead of babies at the date of kindling. There is also a chance these "mummified" blobs could cause complications leading to the death of the doe. Nest Box Nest boxes can be made in a variety of sizes and types. Nest boxes can be made of wood, wire, or metal. Suggested sizes of the nest boxes are: Small breeds – 14” long, 8” wide, 7” high Med. breeds – 18” long, 10” wide, 8”high Lg. breeds – 20” long, 12” wide, 10” high Hay and straw is most often used for the nesting in the nest box. You can use less bedding in the summer. You need to use more hay and shavings during the cold winter months. Gestation in rabbits is typically 28-34 days. However, many breeders will tell you that their rabbits nearly always kindle (give birth) on the 31st day! Around day 26, you should place a nest box in the doe’s cage so that she can begin to prepare a nest. Pre Kindling Behavior Before kindling, the doe will prepare a nest. Some does will carry a mouthful of hay around to prepare for her new litter. She may also pull fur form her chest and belly for nesting materials and to prepare for nursing. You should place a nest box in her cage on the 29th day after breeding. I have placed it even earlier if the Doe is showing any signs of kindling. Thirty-one days after breeding, she should kindle her litter. Every rabbit is different in the way she prepares to kindle her kits. You can provide a wooden nest box, or a metal one that is easy to clean and sanitize. They come in a variety of sizes, and it is important to get the right size for the breed of rabbit you have. The rule of thumb is that it only needs to be large enough for the doe to comfortably turn her body around in. The idea is that it is a cozy den for the babies to stay warm and dry. If the nest box is too large, it may also lead the female to start using it as a toilet, which is not healthy for her litter. The nest box should be filled with wood shavings, and plenty of fresh grass hay. The doe will instinctively begin to pull fur from her chest and back to line the nest she is preparing for her babies. Some does pull hair a bit gradually, and some wait until right before they kindle. It is important, during these last few days, that the doe have ample access to fresh hay and water, along with her regular pellet feed. It is also important to keep her environment free from unusual or sudden loud noises, as this can spook the doe, and cause her to stomp on or even eat her kits (babies) at birth. Checking The New Litter It is important to check the young when they are born. It’s important to keep the area where the kits are quiet. A nervous doe may protect her young by jumping in the nest box. Kits are born without fur and with their eyes closed. Eyes should open within 10-14 days. At least once a day, look carefully at the nest box. There is no need to disturb it, or pull it out to look at it. You are looking for movement. Most rabbits kindle late at night, or in the early hours of the morning. You will know that the babies have arrived, when you see the fluff in the nest box moving, seemingly on its own! There are varying opinions around when the nest box should be pulled out and looked at. Ideally, this should be done in the first 24 hours, to check on the health and well being of the newborns. Any dead kits, or remaining placenta should be removed immediately and disposed of. A sign of a successful, healthy delivery is little to no trace of blood, and kits that appear to be clean, dry, and have big round bellies. The young are very vulnerable, as they are born naked, blind, and deaf. It is okay to handle each kit gently, as the mother rabbit is likely used to your scent. Also, rabbits only nurse their young twice a day, for 5-10 minutes at a time, so don’t interrupt if you see that happening! Fostering Kits When you have larger litters some of the kits are unable to get the amount of food they need. To prepare for this, breeders breed more than one doe to kindle at the same time. If a doe has an unusually large litter, they can move some kits to the smaller litter, and this is called fostering. Fostering should be done in the morning. Newborn Care And Checking The Litter Most doe’s only feed once every 24 hours. You will want to continue to check your newborn’s daily. Be sure that all kits stay with the warmth of the other kits. As the kits begin to grow, you need to check to be sure that their belly’s are round. Baby rabbits begin to grow their fur within a few days, and by 2 weeks they are completely furred. Hand Feeding A Rabbit Sometimes a doe dies after her kits are born. If this happens you may wish to try to feed and care for the babies until they can care for themselves. There are mixes available at many pet stores. The formula for hand fed babies is: 1 pint skim milk 2 egg yolks 2 tablespoons Karo syrup 1 tablespoon bonemeal (available in garden supply centers) Use an eyedropper to feed the kits twice a day. You must also be sure that the kits urinate regularly. To do this, gently rub their genitals with a cotton ball after they’re fed. Continue this procedure until they’re 14 days old. Eye Problems Rabbits eyes open between 10 and 14 days Sometimes help is needed to open a rabbits eyes To do this, take your fingers and gently separate the eyelids, and then wash away any crusty materials. Handling Kits At three weeks of age, kits begin to come out of the nest box. No need to worry! They can now maneuver in and out of the box. Kits begin to eats pellets and drink water at three weeks of age, even though they are still nursing from their mother. More food and water should now be available to the kits. This is an excellent time to begin to handle the young. They may be jumpy at first, but the more you hold them the calmer they will be. Sexing The Litter Kits need to be separated by sex around 6-8 weeks. Making this distinction is called sexing and may call for an experienced 4H member or a breeder’s assistance Sexing the litter Procedure: 1.) One hand restrains the rabbits head. 2.) Place your finger and second fingers of the other hand around the base of the tail. Use your thumb to press down gently in front of the sexual organ. 3.) If a rabbit is a doe, you will see a slit like opening. This opening will begin near your thumb and slope down towards the rabbit’s tail. 4.) If the rabbit is a buck, the opening will look rounded and protrude slightly. Good Bye Nest Box When rabbits are self sufficient, eating pellets, and drinking water, it is time to remove the nest box. Leaving it in longer will allow them to use it as a litter box. Weaning Bucks And Does Weaning is changing the way a kit is nourished form nursing to eating other food. Young are separated from their mother, and no longer nurse from her. This is done in 6 to 8 weeks from birth. A doe’s body needs to rest because producing milk is work for a rabbit’s body. The doe needs a break before she can raise another litter. Littermates will mature as they approach 8 weeks of age. Rabbits have mature instincts about their territory and breeding. Rabbits can mate and produce litters before they are full grown. (This would be very stressful on a doe if she is young.) Do not keep more than one rabbit in each cage when the rabbit is 3 months or older. Rabbits mature faster when alone, do not fight, and do not breed, thus eliminating unexpected results. Tattooing Tattooing is done at weaning. It is done for identification purposes, and purebreds should be tattooed. Pedigrees All purebred rabbits should have pedigree papers showing that they are pure bred. Try to complete your pedigrees as part of the overall weaning process. Evaluating A Rabbit's Reproductive Life After the doe has kindled, some breeders normally re-breed her at 6 weeks and wean the litter at 5-7 weeks. This cycle continues until she is about 4 years old or until her production is unsatisfactory. Review the herd records every quarter to determine which rabbits are not producing up to par and eliminate them. In October through December, some rabbits go into what is called moulting. At this period, many do not conceive. If you have lights on all the time in your rabbitry, this will help. Rabbits are like chickens that lay eggs only if there is enough light. Raising most of my rabbits outside, I would take this problem into consideration when evaluating them. Also, if it gets too hot in the summer, especially for those who live in the Southern U.S., the buck produces less viable sperm and the conception rate goes down. Some people keep their bucks air conditioned to keep the conception rate high. Some breederd standards for a doe is that she produce at least the following number of rabbits per year all the way to weaning: Dwarfs: 8 Small Breeds: 14 Medium Breeds: 16 Meat Type: 20 Giants: 16 Good luck in your endeavors to produce fine rabbits! http://sussex4h.org/Clubs/sc4h_allstar_rabbits_breeding.html http://www.debmark.com/rabbits/breeding.htm https://qualitycage.com/blogs/quality-rabbit-care/the-basics-of-breeding-rabbits-part-one https://www.raising-rabbits.com/rabbit-mating.html http://www.rabbitgeek.com/breedingtips.html https://thehomesteadinghippy.com/breed-rabbits/ Sexually Transmitted Bacterial Infections in Rabbit Treponematosis in Rabbits Treponematosis is a sexually transmitted infection in rabbits that is caused by a bacterial organism called Treponema paraluis cuniculi. This bacterium is spread by sexual contact between rabbits, from direct contact with lesions from another animal, and from mother to newborn during development or birth. This bacterial organism is closely related in form and character to the human species Treponema pallidum (syphilis), but is confined to rabbits; it is not transmissible between species. If this infection is caught early, before systemic damage can occur, it can usually be treated successfully with antibiotics. Symptoms and Types The signs and symptoms of treponematosis are varied and may include the following: History of swelling and redness around the vulva or anus, lips and nose History of possible abortion or loss of pregnancy, long and difficult deliveries, or appearance of stress during pregnancy Swelling early on of the area near and around the genital regions, the eyes, and around the grooming regions Lesions are often on the face only Raised bumps and crusting on the skin surface Causes Treponematosis comes from the bacterial species Treponema cuniculi and is spread through direct contact with the organism. It is possible for the disease to be in a latent stage, and for the infected rabbit to pass the disease on to other rabbits, even though the infected rabbit is not showing any apparent symptoms. Therefore, it is not always possible to determine with a normal inspection whether a potential breeding partner is infected before allowing sexual contact between the two rabbits. If you have recently bred your rabbit, or your rabbit has been paired with a different sexual partner, there is a possibility that your rabbit has come into contact with an infected partner. Conversely, infection can also be seen in younger animals that may not have had sexual contact and thus may have caught the infection congenitally/in utero, or through direct contact with the lesions in the passage of the birth canal. Diagnosis To formally diagnose your rabbit's condition, your veterinarian will need to rule out other conditions that might cause similar symptoms, such as ear mites. Some of the common outer symptoms, such as dry crusts that form with excessive saliva in and around the face, matting of hair around the face, and lesions around the face, will need to be closely inspected, with fluid and tissue samples taken for biopsy. Along with the thorough physical exam, your veterinarian will need you to give a thorough history of your rabbit's health and onset of symptoms. Your doctor's initial diagnosis will take into account the background history of symptoms and possible incidents that might have led to this condition. If the final diagnosis is treponematosis, all of the rabbits that have come into contact with the infected rabbits will need to receive medical treatment. Treatment Treatment in the form of a topical treatment is necessary. It is also necessary to keep the lesions clean and dry to help them heal quickly. While this is not always necessary, it can help speed the recovery. A simple topical (external) antibiotic can also be used to speed healing. Only medications that can be applied topically may be used, as oral applications can be fatal, unless your veterinarian advises otherwise. Your rabbit will require follow-up monitoring and care to ensure complete resolution of the symptoms. Living and Management It is important to follow-up with your health provider to ensure the rabbit avoids exposure to other rabbits that may still carry this infection, which can result in recontamination, and to avoid infecting other animals until your veterinarian is confident that your rabbit is clear of the Treponema cuniculi bacteria. If you have other rabbits, there is a good possibility that they are also infected and should also receive treatment. Even if they are not showing symptoms, your veterinarian may choose to err on the side of prophylactic treatment to avoid further complications. The prognosis for rabbits with treponematosis is excellent provided treatment commences immediately and that all rabbits with the T. cuniculi infection receive treatment promptly. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/reproductive/c_rb_treponematosis Rabbit Dance an Oneida legend retold by Desiree Barber Long ago, two hunters went hunting deer for their village. They hunted for a very long time without seeing any signs of deer, but they didn't return to the village for they knew they had to provide food for the winter. Suddenly, they heard a very loud thump! They stopped and listened to see if there would be another thump, and sure enough, they heard it again! This time the thump was louder, "THUMP!" One hunter said to the other, "What is that?" The other hunter said, "I don't know, but IT sounds very close!" So, both hunters got on their bellies and crawled to a nearby clearing surrounded by bushes. In the center of the clearing they saw the biggest rabbit they had ever seen! The first hunter started to aim his bow and arrow at the huge rabbit, but the second hunter stopped him and said, "Let's wait to see what he is going to do." Both hunters waited and watched the huge rabbit as he lifted one of his big back legs and thumped it three times on the ground. Then, out from every direction hopped regular sized rabbits. The hunters watched very closely not wanting to miss anything. The little rabbits gathered around the big rabbit, and the big rabbit began to thump his back leg in a pattern as the little rabbits danced. The hunters watched in awe as the rabbits danced. Then the big rabbit thumped his leg in the directions in which the hunters lay. The huge rabbit looked in that direction and leaped into the sky. Then all the rabbits quickly hopped away. The hunters watched still in awe. They realized they had to go back to the village and tell the people what they had seen and heard. They ran all the way to the village and asked if they could speak to the elders. After they told their story, one of the elders said, "Show us how the beat and the dance went." The hunters showed them exactly what the rabbits did. Another elder said, "The rabbits gave this dance to tell us to show them respect and appreciation for what they give to us. We will name the dance after them, and we will dance it at our socials to show them our gratitude." So this is the way it was then and is now. That is how the rabbit dance came to be. http://www.uwosh.edu/coehs/cmagproject/ethnomath/legend/legend16.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oneida_people   © Copyrighted

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   Giant Angora Rabbit Breed They say that Angora rabbits are the “Bunnies with a Bonus”. Whatever that bonus is, the Giant Angora still claims the upper hand . It's renowned wool is said to be seven times warmer than the wool of the sheep. Its wool is so valuable because rabbits can produce more than six times of wool per pound of body weight than the sheep, and on top of that, the dietary requirement is 30% less per pound than the sheep. The Giant Angora is the largest of the ARBA recognized Angora breeds. It was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay, and live in the standard sized, all-wire cages. Giant Angora Rabbit Breed History/Origin For many years, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) only recognized two types of Angoras – the French and the English – because the other types were not different enough to be considered a separate breed. Because ARBA wouldn't allow German Angoras to be shown (their body type was considered too similar to the other Angora breeds), Louise Walsh of Taunton, Massachusetts created a new breed. Louise Walsh of Taunton Massachusetts set her sights on creating a larger breed of Angora that was different from the others. She used German Angoras, French Lops, and Flemish Giants to develop a completely different "commercial" body type. Walsh crossed German Angoras to larger commercial breeds and developed an all-white rabbit that had some ear and head furnishings with exceptional high-quality wool. ARBA officially recognized the Giant Angora in 1988. Its coat includes three types of wool: soft under wool, awn fluff, and awn hair. Due to its large size, the Giant Angora rabbit requires a large enclosure to ensure a comfortable life. Overall Description It is to have a commercial-type body with a very dense coat of wool. The head will be oval in appearance that is broad across the forehead and slightly narrower at the muzzle. The Giant Angora will have forehead tufts (head trimmings) and cheek furnishings. The head trimmings are to be noticeable, however, does are not as heavy in trimmings as the bucks. The ears should be lightly fringed and well tasseled. According to the ARBA Standard of Perfection, bucks should weigh 9 1/2 pounds (4.32 kg) or more. Does should weigh 10 pounds (4.54 kg) or more. There are no upper weight limits. The Giant Angora is also the only breed of angora that is only shown as a ruby-eyed white. The classification of the Giant Angora is different than the other Angora breeds due to the fact it is a 6-class animal. The junior buck and junior doe must be under 6 months of age and have a minimum weight of 4 ¾ pounds. The intermediate buck and intermediate doe are 6–8 months of age. The senior buck and senior doe are 8 months of age or over. The senior buck must weigh at least 9 ½ pounds. The senior doe must weigh at least 10 pounds. With judging the Giant Angoras the majority of the points are based on the wool, which includes density, texture, and length. The points for "general type" include the body type, head, ears, eyes, feet, legs, and tail. Like many other "giant" breeds of rabbits, the Giant Angora grows slowly. A doe usually takes more than a year to reach full maturity (size and weight). A buck can take up to 1.5 years to fully mature (size and weight). Coat Out of the four Angora breeds recognized by the ARBA, the Giant Angora rabbit produces the most wool. The Giant Angora produces more wool than the French, Satin or English Angoras. They have three different kinds of fiber in its wool: soft underwool (gentle waves and shine), awn fluff (crimped with a hooked end) and awn hair (guard hairs which are strong and straight). In order to keep their wool mat-free, be sure to brush it with a bristled brush once every two days or as necessary. If your Giant Angora’s wool gets a little dirty, spot-clean it with a damp towel. Despite being a descendant of the German Angoras, which do not molt, Giant Angoras go through a partial molt. However, their wool needs to be harvested 3-4 times a year by owners using shears or scissors and can produce 1-2 lbs of wool per year. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. The awn type wool exists only in the Giant and German Angora breeds. The Giant Angora has furnishings on the face and ears. Many people confuse the German with the Giant Angora, but it is their body type that differs. The Giant Angora coat contains three fiber types for its texture. The underwool is to be the most dominant over the other two types of hair. It should be medium fine, soft, delicately waved and have a gentle shine. The Awn Fluff has a guard hair tip and is a stronger, wavy wool. The Awn Fluff is found between the Underwool and Awn Hair. The Awn Hair, also known as guard hair, is the third type of fiber. The Awn Hair is a straight, strong hair that protrudes above the wool and must be present and evident. Most Giant Angoras do not fully molt, so breeders eagerly harvest the wool by shearing and hand-spin it into yarn, often mixing it with other animal fiber to give it strength. Then they dye it beautiful colors and knit it into assorted creative and useful garments. Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. Today most spinning is done by hobbyists and small farmers. Beginning spinners may find Angora wool a challenge. In the past, commercial wool production was a healthy industry in the United States, but now China produces the most rabbit wool commercially. Colors Like other Angoras, the Giant Angora rabbit comes in a variety of hues from grey to brown to black, and broken colors. However, the only color that is accepted by the ARBA is REW (ruby-eyed white rabbits), also called albino rabbits. A Black color variety of the Giant Angora is in development, but has not been sanctioned by ARBA. Care Requirements Due to its large size, this rabbit requires an equally large enclosure to ensure a lengthy, comfortable life. Should your Giant Angora rabbit be an outdoor rabbit, wood enclosures that are raised from the ground and have a fenced bottom are preferred to keep them safe from the elements as well as predators. Indoor enclosures should have a wire frame and a plastic bottom where pet owners can place bedding. Some rabbit cages also have wire bottoms, however the wire is harsh on your rabbit’s feet. Be sure to spot-clean the bedding every day to give your rabbit a dung-free area to sleep and change the bedding every week or more as needed.  Giant Angora rabbits should always have a few toys to keep them entertained. Diet The Giant Angora was originally developed to be an efficient commercial producer that could be sustained on 16-18% protein pellets plus hay. Now who better that the original breeder for this Breed to speak about food. Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits. Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora. So I have notes about feed from Evergreen Farm where the breed was created. "You are better off getting your food from a feed store such as Agway or a feed and garden store. You will find the food much fresher than that which is commercially available in pet stores. Though pet stores have a gift of making their feeds attractive, their turnover of product is much slower than a grain mill store, thus the freshness in the pet store can not usually measure up to that of the feed store. In reading the feed label if it says “forage and grain products” it might mean whatever they can obtain as cheaply as possible. It will give inconsistent ingredients and can give your bunny some digestive problems. Best to stay away from this one. Go for a feed that lists ingredients such as oats, wheat, or barley for energy. Corn is nasty as a primary grain. It makes a bunny fat. . High fiber and low protein feeds seem to work quite well on angora rabbits. I, personally wouldn’t want a protein over 18%. I like high fiber (good roughage to help the rabbit pass ingested hair). In grain stores you might consider a 50 lb bag of feed. It’s the cheapest practical way to purchase and after three months, when you’re still working on the bag, consider freezing the remainder. It won’t hurt it at all and it will maintain it’s freshness. HAY: = EXTREMELY important nutritional resource. Very young bunnies consume hay in their nest as soon as they can nibble a food. It’s an excellent source of fiber, a great diet food for the pudgy bunny. It’s loaded with vitamins, minerals and a definite fun food. Best are low protein grass hays, such as timothy or orchard grass. These can be offered to the bunny as free choice (even Weight Watchers would approve. Lots of people gravitate toward alfalfa. It’s not a good idea as its high protein. Remember what I said about protein? NATURALLY DELICIOUS FOODS: You thought I wouldn’t say carrots? Of course, carrots. kale, romaine lettuce, a small slice of apple, dandelion, clover, parsley, blackberry leaves Also any wholesome cereal, . Birdseed, sunflower seeds, dried fruit, oatmeal & cheerios . That should be enough goodies." Health Giant Angora wool is perfect to be dyed and made into clothes such as socks and mittens. The most worrisome health issue a Giant Angora rabbit has to worry about is the possibility of developing wool block. Rabbits are clean creatures and like other animals, enjoy grooming themselves to keep their coat in good condition. Some animals, like cats, regurgitate the fur that they accidentally swallow – rabbits don’t have that ability. Instead, due to a diet that is poor in hay, the wool get stuck in their stomachs and creates sort of a hairball. The rabbit believes their bellies are full and refuses to eat and eventually dies of starvation. Symptoms of wool block include lack of appetite, less droppings and a less active rabbit overall. Should you suspect your rabbit is experiencing wool block, be sure to rush them to your local veterinarian to get the problem sorted. All rabbits are also susceptible to developing overgrown teeth. This problem is also caused to a diet that lacks a proper balance of hay, which is used to slowly grind down their teeth naturally. Overgrown teeth can grow into a rabbit’s jaw and face and be very painful. In order to prevent this, make sure to check your rabbit’s mouth every once in a while to check for overgrown teeth and always make sure they have a proper diet consisting of mostly hay. Care of the Giant Angora's wool coat is not as difficult as the care needed by the English Angora rabbit. However, angoras are susceptible to starvation by wool block, and are more sensitive to temperature changes due to their incredibly thick coats (or during the 1 - 1.5 months immediately following a shearing). Temperament/Behavior Giant Angoras should have as much time outside of their enclosures as possible in order for their individual personalities to really shine. Rabbits who are mostly kept in their enclosures and away from human activity do not have the time to interact with their humans and won’t be able to create a lasting relationship. Whether you decide to keep your Angora indoors or out, make sure they have plenty of room to roam around freely and safely. Indoor rabbits should have the freedom to hop around your rooms and have access to sunlight, while outdoor rabbits should be out of their enclosures a few hours every day to stretch their legs in a fenced yard or run. Giant Angoras are mostly used as fiber animals, meaning they are generally bred to produce wool. However, should you decide to keep this rabbit breed as a pet, be sure to socialize them when they are kits in order to have a well-rounded bunny that does well with smaller children and perhaps even other animals. Rabbits are not easy animals to litter train, however it is possible with lots of patience and rewards when they do the deed in the correct spot. Many owners find having several litter boxes spread across the home is a necessary evil in order for their indoor rabbit not to leave their droppings all over their home. They also find that if their rabbit is prone to doing the deed in one particular corner, they place a litter box in that corner so the rabbit can make the connection and understand that they should be doing their business in the box and not outside the box wherever they please. Evergreen Farm Evergreen Farm has been on the New England landscape for over 40 years. They are considered experts in the field of Angora Rabbits. Louise Walsh, Founder of Evergreen Farm , is the creator of the largest AMERICAN wool bearing type of rabbit in the world to date. The Giant Angora. In the past their facility has housed over 7,000 rabbits at one time. Through their barn doors people from all over the world have passed who have purchased and visited their wooly residents. At the time of the release of this episode they have rabbits available as well as wool products. Clubs The National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club, Inc (NARBC, Inc) was first organized as a specialty club for Angora breeders in 1932 with the AR&CBA (now the ARBA). The NARBC, Inc still remains a chartered National Specialty Club with the ARBA. United Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (UARC) was chartered by the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) in 2007 through the hard work of a handful of dedicated breeders. In February of 2012, the UARC became affiliated with the National Angora Rabbit Breeders Club (NARBC). The UARC is a club for all Angora rabbit fanciers, whether their interests are showing, breeding, or fiber related. A club that is run by its members, for its members, for the promotion of Angoras through shared information, shows, meetings, and instruction in a creative and positive atmosphere. All club communication is done via the internet (email, yahoo group, and Facebook) including a club newsletter (when one is sent out). There is an Appalachian Angora Rabbit Club who have a page on Facebook, but their website seems to redirect to a Slim Korean Fashion Harem children's clothes website. Closing Giant Angora Rabbits are endangered as a breed. According to the Rabbit Geek, In 2006 and 2014, they ranked #2 on the Rare Breeds List, the second-rarest rabbit breed, after the Blanc de Hotot. This breed is for rabbit owners serious about spinning, fiber arts or selling fiber, who have the time & space to handle this gentle giant https://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/giant-angora-rabbit/ https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Angora_rabbit https://www.raising-rabbits.com/giant-angora-rabbits.html https://hickoryhillllamas.com/giant-angora-rabbits/ http://www.adoptarabbit.com/breeds/giant-angora/ http://rabbitbreeders.us/giant-angora-rabbits https://angorarabbit.com/cms/articles/angora-rabbit-breeds/giant-angora-rabbit-breed/ https://www.thecapecoop.com/what-breed-angora-rabbit-is-right-for-you/ http://www.evergreenfarm.biz/about_us http://nationalangorarabbitbreeders.com/new/ Rabbit Cures the Dragon King (A Korean Legend) Sep 29, 2002 by Amy Friedman and Meredith Johnson Long ago, in a land beneath the sea, the Dragon King was dying of a mysterious illness. The creatures of the undersea kingdom swam frantically to and fro, circling their king as he lay on his coral throne, wondering what they could do to help. At last the sea horse announced a cure. "The king must eat the liver of a rabbit," he said. "That will cure him." The Dragon King was overjoyed to hear this news, but the others were alarmed. "How will we find a rabbit's liver?" the shark asked the sea urchin. "I've no idea what we should do," wailed the cuttlefish to the cod. "How can we get this medicine to save our king?" moaned the octopus, and he twisted himself up in knots as he wrung his tentacles. But the turtle grinned. "I can fetch a rabbit," he said proudly. "I am the one sea creature who can also live on land." "Then do so at once," commanded the Dragon King, and without a moment's hesitation, the turtle swam toward the surface of the sea. He would find a rabbit, he would. When he arrived on the shore, he was struck by a troubling thought and paused to consider the situation. How would he convince a rabbit to swim beneath the sea with him? And how would he catch a rabbit? He had never actually met a rabbit, but he had seen them bounding through the forest when, on occasion, he sat upon the land sunning himself. As he crawled along the shore, a rabbit happened along. She had heard stories of turtles and was curious. "Hello there, turtle," the rabbit said. "Why hello, rabbit," the startled turtle answered. "I ... I didn't see you there." "Here I am," said the rabbit, "curious to know a turtle. I've never known one, you see." And so they talked for a while, learning about each other's world. Then the rabbit said, "I'd love to see your kingdom someday." "You would?" the turtle asked, surprised. "Why yes," said the rabbit. "You've told me all about the coral castles and the glittering shells. It must be a beautiful place." "Why don't you come with me?" asked the turtle. "I will!" the rabbit replied. "I can hold my breath very well, and I do so wish to see this Dragon King I've heard about." And with that the arrangements were made, and the rabbit hopped on the turtle's back, and splash! into the water they swam. For as long as possible, the turtle swam upon the surface, as he did not want his new friend to hold her breath for too long. The rabbit enjoyed the ride as they swam farther and farther from shore. Back on shore the monkeys let out wails, and the other forest creatures waved to the rabbit. "Don't go underwater," they called, but the rabbit was too excited to listen, and besides, she was enjoying her ride. Finally the turtle knew he would have to dive down toward his kingdom, and now he regretted bringing the rabbit along. How could he allow his new friend to give up her life -- and yet, he had to save the Dragon King. "Hang on," he called to the rabbit as he dived for the deep. Down, down, down they swam, and soon they arrived at the Dragon King's castle. The king was lying on his coral throne, looking very ill. "This is my king," the turtle said to her. And to the king, with some embarrassment, he said, "Your Majesty, this is your rabbit." "'His' rabbit?" the rabbit asked. "What do you mean, friend?" "My king needs a rabbit's liver to save his life," the turtle said sadly. "Does he?" the rabbit asked. The turtle looked down at the ocean floor and a tear dripped from his eye. "We have a problem," the rabbit said. "I've left my liver back in the forest. I'm afraid you'll have to take me home, where I can pick up my liver. Then we will return to give it to your king." "Hurry then," the Dragon King feebly implored. "Go, and return quickly. I'm very weak now." And so the turtle turned around, with the rabbit on his back, and off they swam. When they arrived at the shore, the rabbit quickly hopped off her friend's back. "I'll be right back," she said. She scampered into the forest, where she plucked a persimmon. Tearing open the fruit, she picked out several seeds, and these she wrapped in a leaf. Then she returned to the turtle. "I'm ready," she said, and off they swam, back to the kingdom beneath the sea. "I hereby offer you my liver," said the rabbit to the Dragon King, bowing low. "May you live in good health for many years." She handed the persimmon seeds to the king, who did not recognize them, of course. Under the sea, they had never seen persimmon seeds. Only the turtle understood. The king quickly swallowed the seeds, and a moment later he stood and patted the turtle's head. "I am cured!" he announced, "and as for you, rabbit, you have served our creatures well. We will always honor the rabbit." With that the turtle carried his friend back to shore. They never saw each other again, but they never forgot each other. And only the turtle, of all the undersea creatures, understood how truly wise the rabbit was. https://www.uexpress.com/tell-me-a-story/2002/9/29/rabbit-cures-the-dragon-king-a Abnormality of Incisor Teeth in Rabbits Incisor Malocclusion and Overgrowth in Rabbits A rabbit's teeth usually grow throughout its life, and a high fiber diet, with foods that warrant heavy chewing, are required for proper alignment and functioning, as the coarse foods help to keep the teeth at a manageable length. Occlusion, the fitting together of the teeth of the upper and lower jaws when the mouth is closed, can be hampered by overgrowth of one or more of the teeth, a condition referred to as malocclusion (where the prefix mal- joined with -occlusion refers to the ill-fitting shape of the teeth). If elongation of the cheek teeth occurs, complete closure of the mouth cannot be achieved, and the upper incisor teeth are prevented from coming into contact with the lower incisors, leading to excessive growth of the incisors. The incisor teeth can grow as much as one mm a day if left unopposed by the opposite jaw – the meeting/occlusion of the teeth, along with a diet high in roughage, acts as a natural inhibitor of the tooth's growth. Symptoms and Types Readily visible teeth Excessive drooling Tooth grinding Nasal discharge Food drops out of mouth Preference for softer foods Preference for a water bowl over a sipper bottle Decreased appetite or complete loss of appetite (anorexia) Weight loss Excessive tear production Facial asymmetry or exophthalmos (protrusion of eyeball) Pain (i.e., reluctance to move, depression, lethargy, hiding, hunched posture) Unkempt hair coat due to lack of self grooming Causes There are many factors that can lead to cheek teeth overgrowth. The most significant contributing or exacerbating factor is a diet that contains inadequate amounts of the coarse roughage material that is required for properly grinding the tooth's surface, allowing the incisors to grow into the surrounding soft tissues, damaging the tissue and even leading to secondary bacterial infections in the mouth. Dwarf and lop breeds have been found to be at an increased risk for congenital malocclusion, as they are more prone to skeletal abnormalities. Diagnosis Your veterinarian will perform a thorough physical exam on your rabbit, differentiating between overgrown incisors and other tumors of the mouth of skull. Visual diagnostics will include skull and face X-rays, and computed tomography (CT) for better viewing of abnormalities. A fine needle aspiration (drawing and analyzing the fluid from swelling) will be taken for laboratory testing. A complete blood profile will be conducted, including a chemical blood profile, complete blood count, urinalysis, and a bacterial culture to determine the exact strain of bacteria so that the appropriate antibiotics can be prescribed. Treatment Treatment, whether outpatient or inpatient, will be based on the severity of the symptoms. Fluids may need to be given if your rabbit is dehydrated, and intravenous nutrition if your rabbit has been suffering from a condition of anorexia. Appropriate antibiotic therapy will be given with caution. This is not the primary choice of treatment. If necessary, surgery may be performed to trim the teeth, extract teeth that cannot be repaired, or drain abscess that have occurred as a result of the malocclusion. In some cases, the intestinal tract may have been affected as well, and surgery may be required to remove solids from the intestine. After you have returned home, monitor your rabbit's appetite and production of feces, and report any abnormalities to your veterinarian immediately, as death may occur due to sudden and severe complications. Living and Management A warm, quiet environment will need to be set aside for your rabbit to recover in, but encourage a return to activity as soon as possible, as activity can greatly enhance recovery. If the rabbit is not too tired, encourage exercise (hopping) for at least 10-15 minutes every 6-8 hours. After the initial treatment, most rabbits will require assisted feeding for 36-48 hours postoperatively. Keep fur around the face clean and dry. It is important that your rabbit continue to eat during and following treatment. Encourage oral fluid intake by offering fresh water, wetting leafy vegetables, or flavoring water with vegetable juice, and offer a large selection of fresh, moistened greens such as cilantro, romaine lettuce, parsley, carrot tops, dandelion greens, spinach, collard greens, and good-quality grass hay. Feed timothy and grass hay instead of alfalfa hay, but also continue to offer your rabbit its usual pelleted diet, as the initial goal is to get the rabbit to eat and to maintain its weight and nutritional status. If your rabbit refuses these foods, you will need to syringe feed a gruel mixture until it can eat again on its own. Unless your veterinarian has specifically advised it, do not feed your rabbit high-carbohydrate, high-fat nutritional supplements. Recurrence is likely, so it is important to provide adequate tough, fibrous foods such as hay and grasses to encourage normal wear of teeth. Lifelong treatment, with periodic teeth trimming, is often required, usually every 1-3 months. This, in turn, will require both an investment in time and money on your part. Euthanasia may be warranted with severe or advanced disease, especially in rabbits that are in constant and/or severe pain, or cannot eat. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/mouth/c_rb_incisor_malocclusion_overgrowth © Copyrighted

Hello Listener! Thank you for listening.  If you would like to support the podcast, and keep the lights on, you can support us whenever you use Amazon through the link below: It will not cost you anything extra, and I can not see who purchased what. Or you can become a Fluffle Supporter by donating through Patreon.com at the link below: Patreon/Hare of the Rabbit What's this Patreon? Patreon is an established online platform that allows fans to provide regular financial support to creators. Patreon was created by a musician who needed a easy way for fans to support his band. What do you need? Please support Hare of the Rabbit Podcast financially by becoming a Patron. Patrons agree to a regular contribution, starting at $1 per episode. Patreon.com takes a token amount as a small processing fee, but most of your money will go directly towards supporting the Hare of the Rabbit Podcast. You can change or stop your payments at any time. You can also support by donating through PayPal.com at the link below: Hare of the Rabbit PayPal Thank you for your support, Jeff Hittinger.   English Spots are a very old breed of rabbit. There are 7 recognized varieties (colors): Black, Blue, Chocolate, Gold, Grey, Lilac, and Tortoise. Adult English Spots weigh 5 to 8 pounds, between 2.3 and 3.6 kg. They are a fully arched breed and are allowed to run up and down the table to show off their type and markings while being judged. This week we traveled to a few family events including a second year birthday party and a graduation party. We traveled through 5 states and the District of Columbia all in one day! We were not sure if we were able to get out of our development. We have experienced some extreme rain, and the bridge to get into our development was washed out, as well as the road was washed away in another place. The counties to the North and South were looking for people that were washed away in the flooding. The main road to get to town is still closed, and we need to take side roads. Now enough about our adventures this week, and on with the English Spot. English Spot Rabbit Breed History/Origin English Spots are believed to have been developed in the late 1800s, of course, in England. Though spotted (broken pattern) rabbits had roamed England for well over 200 years, they were nothing special until the beginning of the 1800s. They generally weighed 7-10 pounds, and were the average spotted meat rabbit, several in every barn. In the early 1820’s, as the general interest in rabbits began to increase, extensive descriptions of the “perfect” spotting patterns was made. It was difficult to get all the various markings aggregated correctly in the same rabbit, which was fine, because farmers rose to the challenge for the next 100 years. In 1893, a drawing of “the perfect English Spot” was published in Britain’s Fur & Feather. The same standard is in use today, and describes the herringbone, butterfly, eye circle, cheek spot, ears and ear base, leg marking, and the chain and hip spots that together make up the side pattern. Ten years after the drawing was published, the winning rabbits in English shows more and more closely approximated that ideal. Photos in 1905 showed rabbits that were clearly Eng. Spot rabbits, though their hip markings were still blotchy and congested. Saddle markings had given way to the desired herringbone stripe. The breed was imported to Germany in 1889, and from there to other countries in Europe. According to the AESRC (American English Spot Rabbit Club) 1947 guidebook, 1890 was the first time English were on the table across the pond. In 1891 the National English Rabbit Club was formed and the markings we all know and love were standardized. The English Spot Rabbit is one of the oldest rabbit breeds, dating back to the mid-19th century. The main purpose for developing this particular breed of rabbit was for show purposes, which back in those days, was uncommon since rabbits were mainly used for meat and fur purposes. It is suggested that they may have come from the Great Lorrainese which is now known as the Giant Papillon, although it is also said that they may have descended from the English Butterfly and/or the Checkered Giant. According to the 1975 guidebook English Spots were in America by 1910. In 1910, the English Spot Rabbit was imported to North America and 12 years later in 1924, the American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) accepted it as a recognized breed, and subsequently, the American English Spot Rabbit Club was established. The AESRC was founded in 1924. The first group of members organized the club at the Trenton Inter-State Fair in Trenton, NJ. The first National All English show was held in 1952 in Louisville, KY. In the UK, the breed is known simply as the "English" rabbit. The French named the breed "Lapin Papillon Anglais", or the English Butterfly Rabbit from the butterfly marking on the nose. Previous generations of the breed entailed a white rabbit with patches of color and through the years has acquired clearly defined markings. English Spots have a specific marking pattern and must meet certain marking requirements to be showable in ARBA sanctioned shows. The Eng. Spot is a medium-sized breed with an arched body type. Its weight has been set at 6 - 8 pounds (2.72 - 3.62 kg) in the UK, and 6 - 8 pounds in the USA. The standard for the markings remains the same since 1893. Their markings consist of a butterfly marking on the muzzle; eye circles; cheek spot which is a small spot on the cheek wisker; colored ears; a spine marking which is a stripe from the nape of the neck to the tip of the tail that widends above the hips with a herring bone effect meaning jagged marks on each side; and a sweep of side spot markings consisting of a chain, body markings, and hip markings. The side marking spots should start out small in the chain and gradually get larger with the largest spot in the center of the hip markings. The spots should start out with two chain spots at the nape and sweep down, increasing in number, along the belly then swirl up around the hip. All spots should be round and separated from other spots or markings. The rabbits should be free of stray spots on the head and stray spots near the spine. The markings should also be balanced - meaning the two sides of the body and head should be mirror image in size, shape, and placement of the markings. Two other breeds have similar markings (Rhinelander and Checkered Giant), but the English Spot is the only one of the three to have spots on the shoulder. Some of the English Spot marking disqualifications include: more than one break in the spine marking or a break that exceeds 1/4 inch; a missing cheek spot; more than one stray spot on the head; any head markings that touch each other; and white spots in the upper half of the ears. It is permissible for Spots to have colored/mismatched toenails. English Spots that do the best in competition have good type and like to show off and have clean sharp markings with round spots and are free of stray spots. Character English Spots are a very active breed. They are very friendly and love attention. They make a good pet or 4-H project for older children and are a challenging breed for rabbit raisers to breed and show. The English Spot rabbit is an active and hardy breed. They are noted for being very friendly, inquisitive rabbit breed with an engaging personality. They are very lively and energetic and as an active breed they require plenty of exercise with enough space to run and jump. They are very playful and display some entertaining acrobatics most of the time. They are usually sweet in nature and are very good with children, and also excellent as pets. As a playful breed, the English Spot rabbit needs some toys for playing and exercising. The average lifespan of an English Spot rabbit is about 5 to 8 years. Like the majority of rabbits, the most important component of the diet of an English Spot rabbit is hay, a roughage that reduces the chance of blockages and malocclusion whilst providing indigestible fiber necessary to keep the gut moving. Grass hays such as timothy are generally preferred over legume hays like clover and alfalfa. Legume hays are higher in protein, calories, and calcium, which in excess can cause kidney stones and loose stool. This type of hay should be reserved for young kits or lactating does. Some of the vegetables that rabbits enjoy are parsley, thyme, cilantro, dandelion, and basil. The green, leafy tops of radishes and carrots also are excellent sources of nutrients—more than the vegetable itself. New vegetables should be introduced slowly due to the delicate digestive systems of rabbits. It is recommended that cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce and cabbage be avoided, as they cause gas and can lead to gastrointestinal stasis, which can be fatal. Vegetables such as potatoes and corn should also avoided due to their high starch content. All breeds of rabbits also require an unlimited amount of fresh water, usually provided for in a water crock, tip-proof ceramic pet dish, or hanging water bottle. It is challenging to breed a well marked English Spot because not all babies in a litter will be marked, not to mention showable, or marked well. When a pair of marked English Spots are bred together the litter will consist of 1/2 marked, 1/4 Solid (solid colored with no white), and 1/4 Charlie (mostly white with colored ears, partial butterfly, and some other partial markings). Although they can not be shown, the Solids and Charlies can be used in breeding programs. If a Solid is bred to a Charlie, the entire litter will be marked; and when a Self or a Charlie is bred to a marked English Spot, 1/2 the litter will be marked. Breeding English Spots English Spots are a challenging breed to raise because not all English Spots are marked and it is very difficult to get an English Spot that is marked very well. Marked Spots may have marking disqualifications. Markings (as well as type, fur, and color) can be improved by careful selection at breeding and thoughtful selection of breeding stock. Because there are 7 recognized varieties of English Spots, breeding can become more complicated when unrecognized colors or Spots with poor color are part of the litter. Even though they can be difficult, the challenge of deciding which rabbits to breed together and the excitement of looking in the nest box to see what the doe has makes them a lot of fun. Their playful and active temperament also makes them fun. English Spot does are supposed to be very good mothers - they produce a lot of milk for the babies, make good nests and take good care of the babies. Most of the time they have large litters with 6-9 babies and the does are very good about taking on foster babies. Markings English Spots are either Solid, Charlies, or Marked. A Solid is a colored rabbit with no white. A Charlie is a mostly white rabbit with colored ears, a partial butterfly sort of like a mustache, and some other partial marking like a thin spine marking, cheek spots, and sometimes a few side spots. The partially marked babies "typically have a mustache similar to Charlie Chaplin" and therefore are called 'charlies'. A Marked Spot usually has a full butterfly marking and a spine marking that extends all the way to the tail. A Marked Spot is not necessarily showable. Spots are only showable based on their markings when they meet all the requirements in the Standard. Although Solid and Charlies are not showable, they can be useful in a breeding program. A very plainly marked Spot is not a true Charlie - Charlies has very little color. A true Charlie in a breeding program will never have a Solid baby. The butterfly should be faulted for irregularly shaped wings, drags of color, runs of white, nose fork out of proportion, or blunt/crooked/off centered nose fork. Disqualify for split butterfly or white spots in the butterfly. The English Spot pattern is caused by the broken gene. In fact, the symbol for the broken gene is “En” referring to “English Spotting.” When you breed broken to broken – or spot to spot – about 50% of the offspring will be broken colored, 25% will be solid, and 25% will be very lightly marked rabbits known as “charlies.” You can predict the percentages of Solids, Charlies, and Marked Spots in a litter of English Spots - at least theoretically. Marked X Marked = 50% Marked, 25% Solid, and 25% Charlie. Marked X Charlie = 50% Marked & 50% Charlie Marked X Solid = 50% Marked & 50% Solid Solid X Charlie = 100% Marked Charlie X Charlie = 100% Charlie Solid X Solid = 100% Solid Even though you can predict the percentage of marked babies (genetically), individual litters vary. When 2 Marked rabbits are bred together it is certainly possible to have an all marked litter or a litter with no marked babies at all. Color Because English Spots are most known for their markings and the markings are worth the most points when showing, it is tempting to breed rabbits based on their markings regardless of color. Pairing rabbits with incompatible color can cause problems in later generations - it could increase the chances of getting unrecognized colors and could ruin the quality of the color. Even though color is not worth a lot of points, poor color can detract from the general appearance of the rabbit or make markings look less defined. Even worse - you may have to cull some very well marked Spots from your breeding program because they are an unrecognized color or they have a color disqualification. In the USA, the accepted colors are black, blue chocolate, gold, gray, lilac, and tortoise. In the UK, English rabbits are recognized in black, blue, tortoiseshell, chocolate, and gray only. All other colors are specifically rejected as "inadmissible." When choosing breeding stock and making decisions about mating, it is important to look at the colors in the rabbits' pedigree and not just the color of the rabbits you want to breed. Although the colors in the pedigree give you an idea what colors rabbits likely carry, it does not tell you what colors the ancestors' siblings were. For instance there may be no dilutes (ie. Blue, Lilac) in the pedigree, but the rabbits could carry the gene and there are probably siblings of the rabbits in the pedigree that have been dilutes. Be wary of Chocolate in the pedigrees of Greys - if a Grey carries Chocolate, even when bred to Black it can produce Ambers (chocolate greys/chocolate agouti). Blue and Lilac appear to be similar colors, but if you compare good Blues and Lilacs, they are a very different color - they are just both dilutes (Blues are the dilute of Black and Lilacs are the dilute of Chocolate). Crossing Blues and Lilacs will lead to poor blue color and lilacs that are bluish. A pregnant English Spot will require adequate food to support her and her young. Three weeks into the pregnancy, it is common for breeders to provide the doe with a nest box filled with straw. The doe will burrow in the straw and begin lining the nest with hair she pulls from her stomach, in order to insulate her litter and keep them warm, and when ready, she will have her young in the nest. When the kits are 8 weeks of age, it is advised for the young to be separated from their mother. Type Type is very important in Spots and should always be considered when deciding which Spots to breed together. Avoid breeding Spots with the same type flaws together, especially the common type problems in English Spots like chopped hindquarters, short legs, and compact body types. Improving a marking problem through culling is easier than improving a type problem through culling. It can also be difficult to make the decision to cull a very well marked rabbit that does not have good type. Is there any rabbit so remarkable to look at and yet so difficult to produce as the English Spot? Sports, Charlies, and mis-marks all frustrate the English Spot breeder, but he or she keeps at it for the satisfaction of a seeing a well-marked “Spotted Beauty” running home to win. That’s right – English Spots, as well as other full-arch type breeds, do not pose on the show table but run the length of it, end to end and back again. This is the best way to show off their markings, and they are quite fun to watch and to judge. The ideal body type is long and lean, with the belly carried well off the table. Body type and marking are of nearly equal importance in the English Spot standard. Organizations National English Rabbit Club The American English Spot Rabbit Club (AESRC) The American Rabbit Breeders Association (ARBA) http://americanenglishspot.weebly.com/breed-history.html http://www.petguide.com/breeds/rabbit/english-spot-rabbit/ https://sites.google.com/site/watchmerunspots/englis-spots The US national club: www.AmericanEnglishSpot.weebly.com https://www.raising-rabbits.com/english-spot.html http://rabbitbreeders.us/english-spot-rabbits http://www.roysfarm.com/english-spot-rabbit/ http://americanenglishspot.weebly.com/standard.html Red Eye in Rabbits Hyperemia and Red Eye in Rabbits Red eye is a relatively common condition which causes swelling or irritation in the rabbit's eye or eyelid. This appearance of blood vessels in the eyeball can develop because of various reasons, including many systemic or body diseases. If your rabbit has red eye, seek veterinary advice immediately, as it is generally a secondary symptom to a more serious condition. Symptoms and Types The signs and symptoms of red eye and related conditions often depend on the underlying cause. For example, if the red eye is due to a dental disorder, there may be signs of tooth decay or dental disease in the animal. Other common signs and symptoms may include: Impaired vision Swollen eyelids Eye discharge Extra tissue around the eyes Nasal discharge and upper respiratory infection or cold Hair loss and crusting in the mucous membrane, especially around the eyes, nasal area and cheeks Lethargy Depression Abnormal posture Facial masses Causes: Because there are many causes to rabbit red eye, it is often difficult to identify the exact cause. However, some factors may include: Bacterial infections, including Treponema cuniculi (or rabbit syphilis), which can cause swollen eyelids Conjunctivitis, a common disorder causing red eye that can result from allergies, bacterial or viral irritants; sometimes occurring as a side-effect of a respiratory tract infection Keratitis, which is usually a fungal infection of the eye, and which can follow an injury to the eye Glaucoma, which if left untreated, can cause blindness Dental diseases, which can bring debris in the eye, causing inflammation or blocking a tear duct Diagnosis The veterinarian will run a variety of laboratory tests to diagnose the cause for the rabbit's red eye. This includes skin and other type of cultures, as well as exams testing for cataracts and other ocular diseases that can impair vision and health. If the veterinarian is still unable to diagnose the condition, they may run special tests including: Tonometry – measures the eye pressure in order to diagnose glaucoma and other related disorders Schirmer tear test – detects dry eye , a condition which can lead to red eye Cytologic examinations – identifies infections within the tear ducts and surrounding tissues Fluorescein stains – helps rule out ulcerative keratitis, a condition which can lead to red eye Treatment Treatment is almost always dependent on the underlying cause of the condition. For example, if the rabbit's red eye is due to a dental disease, a tooth extraction may be necessary; whereas a case of bacterial-caused red eye may require an antibiotic prescription. To alleviate the rabbit's pain, the veterinarian will prescribe topical anti-inflammatory medication. In some cases, animals will require a short-course of topical steroid agents, especially rabbits with ulcers, delayed wound healing, and those with certain infections. Living and Management Some animals may require long-term pain management. Still others may require repeat eye exams to help ensure the rabbit's eye inflammation is managed properly, and that eye pressure remains stable to help prevent blindness. https://www.petmd.com/rabbit/conditions/eyes/c_rb_red_eye The Story of the Perverted Message Hottentot Like many other [First Nation peoples], the Namaquas or Hottentots story of the associate the phases of the moon with the idea of immortality, the apparent waning and waxing of the luminary Moon and being understood by them as a real process of alternate disintegration and reintegration, of decay and growth repeated perpetually. Even the rising and setting of the moon is interpreted by them as its birth and death. They say that once on a time the Moon wished to send to mankind a message of immortality, and the hare undertook to act as messenger. So the Moon charged him to go to men and say, ” As I die and rise to life again, so shall you die and rise to life again.” Accordingly the hare went to men, but either out of forgetfulness or malice he reversed the message and said, ” As I die and do not rise to life again, so you shall also die and not rise to life again.” Then he went back to the Moon, and she asked him what he had said. He told her, and when she heard how he had given the wrong message, she was so angry that he threw a stick at him which split his lip. That is why the hare’s lip is still cloven. So the hare ran away and is still running to this day. Some people, however, say that before he fled he clawed the Moon’s face, which still bears the marks of the scratching, as anybody may see for himself on a clear moonlight night. But the Namaquas are still angry with the hare for robbing them of immortality. The old men of the tribe used to say, ” We are still enraged with the hare, because he brought such a bad message, and we will not eat him.” Hence from the day when a youth comes of age and takes his place among the men, he is forbidden to eat hare’s flesh, or even to come into contact with a fire on which a hare has been cooked. If a man breaks the rule, he is not infrequently banished the village. However, on the payment of a fine he may be readmitted to the community. A similar tale, with some minor differences, is told by Bushman the Bushmen). According to them, the Moon formerly said originally of death # to men, ” As I die and come to life again, so shall ye do ; [death# ] then when ye die, ye shall not die altogether but shall rise again.” the hare [relayed the message s-i-c]. But one man would not believe the glad tidings of immortality, and he would not consent to hold his tongue. For his mother had died, he loudly lamented her, and nothing, could persuade him that she would come to life again. A heated altercation ensued between him and the Moon on this painful subject. “Your mother’s asleep,” says, the Moon. # She’s dead,” says the man, and at it they went again, hammer and tongs, till at last the Moon lost patience and struck the man on the face with her fist, cleaving his mouth with the blow. And as she did so, she cursed him saying, ” His mouth shall be always like this, even when he is a hare. For a hare he shall be. He shall spring away, he shall come doubling back. The dogs shall chase him, and when they have caught him they shall tear him in pieces. He shall altogether die. And all men, when they die, shall die outright. For he would not agree with me, when I bid him not to weep for his mother, for she would live again. * No,’ says he to mc, * my mother will not live again.’ Therefore he shall altogether become a hare. And the people, they shall altogether die, because he contradicted me flat when I told him that the people would do as I do, returning to life after they were dead.” So a righteous retribution overtook the skeptic for his skepticism, for he was turned into a hare, and a hare he has been ever since. But still he has human flesh in his thigh, and that is why, when the Bushmen kill a hare, they will not eat that portion 6f the thigh, but cut it out, because it is human flesh. And still the Bushmen say, ” It was on account of the hare that the Moon cursed us, so that we die altogether. If it had not been for him, we should have come to life again when we died. But he would not believe what the Moon told him, he contradicted her flat.” In this Bushman version of the story the hare is not the animal messenger of God to men, but a human skeptic who, for doubting the gospel of eternal life, is turned into a hare and involves the whole human race in the doom of mortality. This may be an older form of the story than the Hottentot version, in which the hare is a hare and nothing more. https://japanesemythology.wordpress.com/moon-viewing-tradition/african-tales-of-how-the-hare-got-to-the-moon-and-how-mankind-lost-immortality/ In a pan–African story, the Moon sends Hare, her divine messenger, down to earth to give mankind the gift of immortality. “Tell them,” she says, “that just as the Moon dies and rises again, so shall you.” But Hare, in the role of trickster buffoon, manages to get the message wrong, bestowing mortality instead and bringing death to the human world. The Moon is so angry, she beats Hare with a stick, splitting his nose (as it remains today). It is Hare’s role to lead the dead to the Afterlife in penance for what he’s done. https://ronelthemythmaker.wordpress.com/2017/02/23/rabbits-and-hares-of-folklore-folklorethursday/ Word of the week: Latitude © Copyrighted

Welcome Medicare Nation! I just had my annual eye exam and what a surprise I got!  I was diagnosed with Narrow Angle Glaucoma!  How could I be diagnosed with Glaucoma being just 54 years old?   Not only was I diagnosed, but I had to have immediate laser surgery to correct it. I don't want any of you to be diagnosed with Narrow Angle Glaucoma, so I'm going to discuss glaucoma with you to help you understand this disease. There are several types of glaucoma. The two main types I will be discussing today are open-angle and narrow angle glaucoma. These types of glaucoma are marked by an increase of pressure inside the eye.   Open-Angle Glaucoma Open-angle glaucoma, (also called  Chronic Glaucoma), is the most common form of glaucoma, accounting for at least 90% of all glaucoma cases: In open-angle glaucoma, the angle in your eye where the iris meets the cornea is as wide and open as it should be, but the eye’s drainage canals become clogged over time, causing an increase in internal eye pressure and subsequent damage to the optic nerve can occur. It is a lifelong condition and needs to be monitored. It is the most common type of glaucoma, affecting about 3 million Americans, many of whom do not know they have the disease, because you will not have signs or symptoms until it is too late. You are at increased risk of glaucoma if your parents or siblings have the disease, if you are African-American or Latino, and possibly if you are diabetic or have cardiovascular disease. The risk of glaucoma also increases with age.   The 2nd type of Glaucoma is called - Narrow Angle Glaucoma Narrow Angle Glaucoma, also called acute glaucoma, is a less common form of glaucoma – less than 5% of the general population develops Narrow Angle Glaucoma. Far sighted people are more common to have narrow angle glaucoma, since their Front Chamber of their eye is smaller than normal. The Iris can “bow” forward, thinning the angle that drains fluid from the eye. Fluid builds up and so does the pressure inside the eye. This happens when the drainage canals get blocked.  Such as When you put a drainage stopper in the sink or something clogs the drain. With angle-closure glaucoma, the iris (which is the colored portion of your eye – your brown eyes, your blue eyes etc.) is not as wide and open as it should be. The outer edge of the iris can bunch up over the drainage canals, when the pupil enlarges too much or too quickly. This can happen when entering a dark room. Unlike open-angle glaucoma, narrow angle glaucoma is a result of the angle between the iris and cornea closing quickly.   What are some Symptoms of Angle-Closure Glaucoma? Hazy or blurred vision The appearance of rainbow-colored circles around bright lights Severe eye and head pain Nausea or vomiting (accompanying severe eye pain) Sudden sight loss  Treatment Treatment for Glaucoma an involve eye drops, laser or conventional surgery. Everyone is unique and may require different treatment. Eye drops A number of medications are currently in use to treat glaucoma. Your doctor may prescribe a combination of medications or change your prescription over time to reduce side effects or provide a more effective treatment. The medications are intended to reduce elevated pressure in your eye and prevent damage to the optic nerve. Eye drops used in managing glaucoma decrease eye pressure by helping the eye’s fluid to drain better and/or decreasing the amount of fluid made by the eye. Combination drugs are available for patients who require more than one type of medication.  2 Types of Laser Surgeries Are: Micropulse Laser Trabeculoplasty (MLT) is a common procedure for the treatment of primary open-angle glaucoma  MLT provides pressure-lowering effects. It is unique in that it uses a specific diode laser to deliver laser energy in short microbursts. MLT is a relatively new laser procedure. Laser Peripheral Iridotomy (LPI) For the treatment of narrow angles and narrow-angle glaucoma. Narrow-angle glaucoma (also known as acute angle glaucoma).           LPI makes a small hole in the iris, allowing it to fall back from the fluid channel and helping the fluid drain. In general, surgery for narrow angle glaucoma is successful and long lasting. Regular checkups are still important though, because a chronic form of glaucoma could still occur.   Conventional Surgery MIGS  stands for minimally invasive glaucoma surgery. The goal of all glaucoma surgery is to lower eye pressure to prevent or reduce damage to the optic nerve. Standard glaucoma surgeries are major surgeries. While they are very often effective at lowering eye pressure and preventing progression of glaucoma, they have a long list of potential complications. The MIGS group of operations have been developed in recent years to reduce some of the complications of most standard glaucoma surgeries. MIGS procedures work by using microscopic-sized equipment (tiny, tiny tubes & shunts) and tiny incisions. While they reduce the incidence of complications, some degree of effectiveness is also traded for the increased safety.   Get Your Annual Exam so your Optometrist can detect any issues with your eyes early!   A Comprehensive Glaucoma Exam Regular glaucoma check-ups include two routine eye tests: tonometry and ophthalmoscopy. Tonometry measures the pressure within your eye. During tonometry, eye drops are used to numb the eye. Then a doctor or technician uses a device called a tonometer to measure the inner pressure of the eye. Eye pressure is unique to each person. Ophthalmoscopy  This diagnostic procedure helps the doctor examine your optic nerve for glaucoma damage. Eye drops are used to dilate the pupil, so that the doctor can see through your eye to examine the shape and color of the optic nerve. If the pressure within your eye is not within the normal range or if the optic nerve looks unusual, your doctor may ask you to have one or two more glaucoma exams: perimetry and gonioscopy.   Perimetry  Perimetry is a visual field test that produces a map of your complete field of vision. This test will help a doctor determine whether your vision has been affected by glaucoma. During this test, you will be asked to look straight ahead and then indicate when a moving light passes your peripheral (or side) vision. This helps draw a "map" of your vision.   Gonioscopy This diagnostic exam helps determine whether the angle where the iris meets the cornea is open and wide or narrow and closed. During the exam, eye drops are used to numb the eye. A hand-held contact lens is gently placed on the eye. This contact lens has a mirror that shows the doctor if the angle between the iris and cornea is closed and blocked (a possible sign of angle-closure or acute glaucoma) or wide and open (a possible sign of open-angle, chronic glaucoma). Pachymetry  Pachymetry is a simple, painless test to measure the thickness of your cornea – (the clear window at the front of the eye over the pupil). Diagnosing glaucoma is not always easy, and careful evaluation of the optic nerve is needed for diagnosis and treatment. Always get a second opinion of any diagnosis of open angle or narrow angle glaucoma.   Resources: http://www.glaucoma.org/glaucoma/video-narrow-angle-glaucoma.php   www.glaucoma.org www.worldglaucoma.org   Do you have a Medicare Question? Send it to Support@TheMedicareNation.com Tell a friend or family member to SUBSCRIBE to Medicare Nation. They’ll get a new episode on their laptop, tablet, or phone every Friday so they won’t miss an episode Find all our shows on the Medicare Nation website – www.TheMedicareNation.com Finally, Medicare nation will be having its ONE YEAR Anniversary in a few weeks. I”d love for you to help me celebrate this past year of guests, topics and questions from listeners….by telling me what you’ve enjoyed most about Medicare Nation. Go to my website www.callsamm.com And “Click” on the contact tab. You’ll see a blue button that says “ Start Recording." You’ll be able to leave a short message of what you’ve enjoyed over the past year on medicare Nation. If you’d like me to announce your celebration message, leave me your first name & city & tell me you want  to be ON Medicare Nation.  

Listen HEREor here here is the documentary on abortion that I mentioned:https://archive.org/details/when_abortion_was_illegal Here is the link to that thread I mentioned on the Abolitionist Approach Facebook Pagehttps://www.facebook.com/abolitionistapproach/photos/a.393908680628892.94280.156275557725540/965200420166379/?type=1&theaterHere is the video I talked about that is the best in the world and changed my life and made me an abolitionist vegan: NOTE: there are some upsetting photos but lots of beautiful photos and the context is so on point.  I wouldn't ask you to watch it if I didn't think it was worth it.https://vimeo.com/4808525 - to watch at the link or watch below (make it full screen if it is not showing properly) Theory of Animal Rights from Gary L. Francione on Vimeo.Thanks for listening and please please remember to READ GARY FRANCIONE'S BOOKS http://www.abolitionistapproach.com/books/Here are some photos from Jam on Toast and Eco Day

http://www.ADHD-Natural-Treatments.com - Visit for the safest and most effective ADHD Natural Treatment that we recommend. ADHD And Treatment - ADHD Treatment - Treatment Of ADHD - Treatment For ADHD Hello Everyone, Welcome to ADHD Natural Treatments . The place where we help you find the best natural solution for ADHD. You can find the safest and most effective ADHD natural treatment we recommend at - www.ADHD-Natural-Treatments.com Have you ever wondered why your child feels weak after taking prescription medications for ADHD? Well, the reason is that these harmful medications cause a lot of damage in your child's body, thus leaving them weak and ill. As a result, finding a balance between ADHD and treatment becomes very important. If you are looking for a safe and healthy approach on ADHD and treatment, this video will help you discover how it can be achieved. Most of the prescription drugs are so harmful, that they cause lots of defects in your child and may ruin the future of your child by causing depression and psychological problems in adulthood. In the long run, it can even prove to be fatal for them. So even after knowing this, is it fair for you to expose your child to such risks? No, however, that doesn't mean that ADHD and treatment can never co-exist? Of course they can. And the good news is that ADHD and treatment can be carried out and that too in a very safe way, in the form of safe natural treatments like Homeopathy. Homeopathy is not a new science. It has existed for many years, but only recently has the world taken notice of it. It is a wonderful option for anyone looking to treat ADHD naturally, as there is some super effective ADHD medications that are 100% safe, at the same time showing even better results than what prescription drugs can offer. The homeopathic medicines are mild, yet very effective and so treat the illness from the roots. This helps the child to recover easily, without having to experience the harsh side-effects like those found in prescription drugs. ADHD And Treatment - ADHD Treatment - Treatment Of ADHD - Treatment For ADHD A lot of research has been done on ADHD and treatment and it has been found that lifestyle activities like diet and exercise also go a long way in healing ADHD. If your child eats healthy foods and does regular exercise, they are sure to get relief from ADHD. Intake of supplements containing ingredients like iron, magnesium and zinc can also prove to be helpful. So you must ensure that your child's diet is monitored and that they get adequate exercise, as these help in treating ADHD naturally. A combination of a healthy lifestyle and homeopathic medication can effectively treat ADHD in children. The reason for suggesting this form of treatment is that it is natural and completely harmless. While the hugely in-demand prescription drugs are composed of harmful chemicals, the homeopathic medications are made up of ingredients that not only act on the cellular level in curing the disease, but also nourish and enhance the cells, thus renewing the overall health of your child. What is even better is that these ingredients are carefully chosen by clinical psychologists for the most excellent results. Also, these medicines are manufactured under the direction of qualified and well experienced homeopaths and responsible pharmacists in a registered pharmaceutical facility that is FDA and GMP certified. ADHD and treatment are like two sides of a coin. They are not difficult to approach, but at the same time need to be approached carefully. A wrong approach can prove to be very harmful and so a lot of attention should be paid at every detail. And this is exactly what homeopathy does. So turn to the safe and secure method for ADHD and treatment. Give your child the right they deserve, to a healthy and long life. There is no satisfaction greater than seeing your child recover from the sufferings and lead a happy life. The good NEWS is that, with homeopathy you can actually see that happening. If you want to know the best natural solution available for ADHD that we recommend, please visit - www.ADHD-Natural-Treatments.com ADHD And Treatment - ADHD Treatment - Treatment Of ADHD - Treatment For ADHD.