Podcasts about new alpinism

Scott Johnston, co-author of "Training for the New Alpinism" and "Training for the Uphill Athlete," shares insights on recovery strategies for ultramarathon runners in this new podcast episode. Johnston emphasizes the critical balance between rest and performance, outlining how factors like central nervous system fatigue, motivation, and age influence post-race recovery. The conversation highlights actionable strategies, including subjective feedback tracking, active recovery, and the importance of long-term planning for peak performance while avoiding overtraining. Visit TrainingPeaks.com to see how it can help your training.

About 50 years past the start of the Anthropocene (~1950), mountain towns were abuzz with people running on trails, rock climbing, backcountry skiing, and mountain biking. Rumor has it that even back then, there were complaints of crowded trailheads and spraying. And the athletes huffing and puffing up and down and across those hills likely hadn't conjured where they landed in the multi-faceted definition of the mountain athlete. Was the term "mountain athlete" even a thing? Nowadays, post publication of "Training for the New Alpinism," (2014) and "Training for the Uphill Athlete," (2019), we often find either ourselves or folks we know accessing professional coaching or simply reading up on how to become stronger, faster, and tougher in our mountain pursuits. Sam Naney and his wife Alison began Methow Valley based Cascade Endurance several years ago. Their business caters to mountain athletes seeking training plans, wellness tips, and general methods to keep the body and mind primed for a 12-month-long cycle of up and down and up again. The two were part of the first iteration of the mountain athlete coaching enterprise Uphill Athlete, and were offered a front-row seat to how mountain sport training culture has evolved. From weekend warriors to elite level mountain climbers, it's now possible to find myriad personalized plans. Hard to believe, a bit more than a decade ago, mountain athletes had to pilfer from well-founded running and cycling training principles. Terms like fast-twitch, slow-twitch, AeT and LT, and taper are part of the mountain craft vernacular.  With the proliferation of plans and videos, and yes, podcasts, we jump into the fray to offer a few things in this episode. We learn more about Sam's backstory. And we take a 10,000-foot view with him to discern some basics regarding training best practices as we approach the touring season. Think of it as a toe-dip rather than full-body cold water immersion. And we'll learn how he once was a lab rat of sorts experimenting with roller skiing and hyperoxic training...something not to try at home. You can find us at the-high-route.com. Yeah, there are two hyphens for redundancy, which is a good policy in the mountains. For weight weenies, hyphens weigh next to nothing.The theme music for The High Route Podcast comes from Storms in the Hill Country and the album The Self Transforming (Thank you, Jens Langsjoen). You can find a link to the album here—there are so many good songs on this album. And if you think you've spotted a UFO in the past or visited the 7th dimension, "Beautiful Alien" is a good tune to start with.

The third episode in the NOS series and we tackle the most important variables of developing your own training program.   Three major things to keep in mind...and how to adjust them.  Plus, a ton of other helpful resources from Jake S. at Atomic Athlete.   Resources Atomic Athlete Information Book Reference: Training for the New Alpinism.  Pineland Underground Podcast On Training --- Grab your copy of the Dehydrating Guide! We're opening enrollment for coaching in 2023 now.  Spots are limited.  If you're interested, you can check out more details and sign up here! Is there a topic YOU want to hear about?  Tell us here! Check out a host of free resources to help you get clarity on nutrition. Join our Facebook group! Valley to Peak Facebook Group Opt in for the latest V2P News (and a freebie!)

We've got a double-header today with two amazing guests. Our first guest is Scott Johnston, a coach, trainer, and co-author of Training for the New Alpinism, with over 200,000 copies sold. Scott recently left his perch at Uphill Athlete, along with many of the coaches, to continue their work at Evoke Endurance. We talk to Scott about a healthier approach to training for comprehensive fitness, whether on the rock or in the big mountains. Next, we speak to Libby Sauter, a family nurse practitioner and trad climber who holds the women's speed record on the Nose. She set that record in 2014 with Mayan Smith Gobat, clocking a time of 4:43. Libby took a big step back from speed climbing after seeing her dear friend Quinn Brett break her back while trying to beat her record. In the past few years, she's been trying to start a family with her partner, but has suffered tragic loss many times over through multiple miscarriages. Libby shares the struggle of this journey honestly and openly, with the goal of influencing other female climbers and athletes to think about what it means to have it all. Our final bit today is some Buddy Spray for friend of the pod Wendy Williams, who, at age 48, just climbed the hardest route of her life. Show Notes Connect with Scott Johnston at Evoke Endurance and follow him and his team on Instagram. Training for the New Alpinism Libby Sauter on Instagram. Video: Libby and Mayan break the Nose speed record. Free (Donation-based) pregnancy and infant loss counseling Fertility Doctor YouTube The Turnaway Study: Cost of being denied abortions Wendy Williams: At 48, I tried everything. Here's What Helped Me (Finally) Send. Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Steve House sees the convergence of technical climbing and mountaineering as "New Alpinism." And the athleticism required to be an all-around alpinist demands a training regimen as diverse as the skills of the blended climbing disciplines used. His coaching company, Uphill Athlete, grew from his work helping lead other alpinists, mountaineers and athletes based on personal learnings and fundamental endurance coaching. For 21 years, Steve House was a professional climber and has been a professional mountain guide since 1992. His most famous ascent was Nanga Parbat's Rupal Face in 2005, which earned him and Vincent Anderson the acclaimed The Piolet d'Or ("Golden Ice Axe"). Reinhold Messner called him "The best high-altitude climber in the world." He has also compiled an impressive list of first ascents and new routes in Alaska, the Canadian Rockies, the Alps and the Himalayas. Since retiring from professional climbing, House has coauthored "Training for the New Alpinism" and "Training for the Uphill Athlete," as well as becoming a co-founder of the coaching company Uphill Athlete. 

In the episode, Scott Johnston talks with Damon Tedford who recently returned from successful climbs of both Mt Everest and Lhotse.  While Damon and Scott have been in sporadic communication over the past couple of years using our phone consultation service he has been completely self-coached, using first our book Training for the New Alpinism to create his own training plan for the first couple of training cycles.  For this final training build up prior to the Everest-Lhotse trip he bought and used our 24 week expeditionary mountaineering plan and slightly modified it because we consider those plans to be the bare minimum needed to succeed.   Show Notes: Mountaineers on Mount Everest: Effects of age, sex, experience, and crowding on rates of success and death. https://journals.plos.org/plosone/article?id=10.1371/journal.pone.0236919  Wilderness Medical Society Clinical Practice Update for Prevention and Treatment of Acute Altitude Illness: 2019 Update https://www.wemjournal.org/article/S1080-6032(19)30090-0/fulltext

Scott Johnston is an endurance sports coach, author, and co-founder of the coaching business Uphill Athlete. The main focus of Scott and his company is coaching mountain sport athletes, like mountain runners, climbers, and ski mountaineers, but Scott also has an extensive background in more traditional endurance sports like swimming, cross-country skiing, and even triathlon.   IN THIS EPISODE YOU'LL LEARN ABOUT: -What do we mean by "aerobic base", and how do you develop a really strong aerobic base?  -How should aerobic training be executed?  -How and when should you balance high-intensity training into your training program?  -Training zones: Scott's recommendations for how to assess and use training zones -Testing: the Heart Rate Drift test for assessing your aerobic threshold SHOWNOTES: https://scientifictriathlon.com/tts326/ SCIENTIFIC TRIATHLON AND THAT TRIATHLON SHOW WEBPAGE: www.scientifictriathlon.com/podcast/ SPONSORS: Precision Fuel & Hydration - Optimise and individualise your fueling and hydration strategy using the free online Sweat Test and Quick Carb Calculator on precisionfuelandhydration.com. Book a free one-on-one consultation to chat with the team and refine your fueling and hydration even further. Listeners of That Triathlon Show get 15% off their first order of fueling and hydration products. If you didn't catch the discount code in the episode, email Andy and the team at hello@precicionhydration.com and they will be happy to help.  ROKA - Exceptional quality triathlon wetsuits, trisuits, swimskins, goggles, performance sunglasses as well as prescription eyeglasses and sunglasses.  Online vision test for prescription updates and home try-on options available for eyeglasses. Ships from the US, UK and EU. Trusted by world-leading athletes such as  Lucy Charles-Barclay, Javier Gómez Noya, Flora Duffy, Morgan Pearson, Summer Rappaport and others in triathlon, cycling, speed skating, and many more. Visit roka.com/tts for 20% off your order. LINKS AND RESOURCES: Uphill Athlete (Scott's coaching business) website, Youtube, and Instagram Training for the New Alpinism and Training for the Uphill Athlete - Scott's books Related articles on Uphill Athlete: Heart Rate Drift test instructions, How to set your training zones, and Training zones heart rate calculator Polarised training with Stephen Seiler, PhD | EP#177 Training structure, periodisation and the science of winning with Jan Olbrecht, PhD | EP#198 The Science of Winning: Planning, Periodizing and Optimizing Swim Training (Kindle Edition) by Jan Olbrecht Special Strength Training: Manual For Coaches & Block Training System in Endurance Running by prof. Yuri Verkoshansky RATE AND REVIEW: If you enjoy the show, please help me out by subscribing, rating and reviewing: www.scientifictriathlon.com/rate/ CONTACT: Want to send feedback, questions or just chat? Email me at mikael@scientifictriathlon.com or connect on Instagram, Facebook, or Twitter.

What do racing an IRONMAN and climbing the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat have in common? Perhaps more than we originally thought. This week, co-author of Training for the New Alpinism and Training for the Uphill Athlete, Scott Johnston sat down with us to chat about the training commonalities between 'traditional' endurance athletes and elite alpinists. We'll also explore the science behind Aerobic Deficiency Syndrome (or ADS) and how it feels to work with athletes such as legendary Alex Honnold and Kilian Jornet.

Steve House and partner Vince Anderson summitted the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat and were awarded the Piolet d'Or- in 2005.  Steve and Vince at Skyward Mountaineering train SOF. Steve has also codified and incorporated modern PT to optimize performance in the mountains. This is a great discussion with a world class athlete to enjoy and learn from. He talks about the mountains and how his training program evolved. Find Steve at uphillathlete.com Find Steve and Vince at skyward mountaineering  Read his books- Training for the New Alpinism and Training for the Uphill Athlete   Happy Holidays!

Steve House is a world-renowned climber and mountain guide. Scott Johnston is an adventure and endurance athlete coach, a ski racer, and aerospace engineer. Together, they are the authors of Training for the New Alpinism, and Training for the Uphill Athlete. In the first ever two-part episode of The Stokecast, Emily and Jonathan chat with Scott and Steve about all things mountain running, ski mountaineering, their process for writing two of the most educational and impactful books for aspiring and expert mountain athletes alike, as well as each of their background to learn how their careers led them to each other, their latest book, and their coaching program, Uphill Athlete. Show notes: http://exploreinspired.com/uphillathlete Hosts: Jonathan Ronzio, Emily Holland Editor: Chris Plante Presented by: Explore Inspired

“You can really make huge strides just by sticking to the simple concept of consistency.”-Steve HouseThis week’s episode is the complement to last week’s, as it tells the other half of the story behind Training for the New Alpinism and Uphill Athlete. Steve House was the climber who Scott Johnston, last week’s podcast guest, was coaching when they both decided to share with the world the training techniques that had been so beneficial for Steve. That idea eventually became Training for the New Alpinism, their new book Training for the Uphill Athlete, and their coaching company Uphill Athlete. Steve himself is an accomplished climber who built a name for himself through practicing alpinism, ascending mountains via the most aesthetic lines while leaving as little a trace as possible. While the idea of alpinism may sound simple, it is actually one of, if not the, hardest and most complex endeavors that a human being can attempt and Steve became one of the best in the world at it. He brought that experience in the mountains into his work with Scott to build a training framework that is both practical and beneficial. Today Steve and I delve into his story, the sport of alpinism, community, overcoming challenges, consistency, and how to train smart to achieve your goals.AUM,Jarod ContrerasFind Steve:stevehouse.net/uphillathlete.com/Support Touching the Trail:touchingthetrail.com/donatetargetreleaserecovery.comFind Touching the Trail:touchingthetrail.comTouching the Trail Weekly: touchingthetrail.com/signupInstagram: @touchingthetrail instagram.com/touchingthetrailTwitter: @touchthetrail twitter.com/touchthetrailFacebook: Touching the Trail facebook.com/touchingthetrail

“Every good training program needs to have qualities to it: continuity/consistency, progression, and modulation.”-Scott JohnstonScott Johnston is the co-author, along with alpinist Steve House, of the bestseller Training for the New Alpinism: A Manual for the Climber as Athlete (2014) and the recently released Training for the Uphill Athlete: A Manual for Mountain Runners and Ski Mountaineers (2019). Both Scott and Steve are the co-founders of the endurance and mountain sports coaching company Uphill Athlete, as well. I first heard about Scott and Steve by hearing about Training for the New Alpinism, which changed the training landscape for alpinism and endurance sports in general by applying tried and true training techniques from more conventional sports to endurance sports. With their new book, Training for the Uphill Athlete, they are continuing to shift the sports’ perspective on training for the better. Today Scott and I sit down to discuss his story, his experience with skiing and climbing, and how he became fascinated by training. We explore how he developed his own training framework, how he took that framework to successfully coach athletes like Steve House, and how he and Steve took that framework and provided it to the world with their books and coaching.AUM,Jarod ContrerasFind Scott:uphillathlete.com/Support Touching the Trail:touchingthetrail.com/donatetargetreleaserecovery.comFind Touching the Trail:touchingthetrail.comTouching the Trail Weekly: touchingthetrail.com/signupInstagram: @touchingthetrail instagram.com/touchingthetrailTwitter: @touchthetrail twitter.com/touchthetrailFacebook: Touching the Trail facebook.com/touchingthetrail

Steve House is one of the World's best alpine climbers, with an extraordinary mountaineering resumé and Scott Johnston has a long and diverse athletic background, having excelled in climbing, swimming and nordic skiing, amongst others. Together they've teamed up to create a company called Uphill Athlete, and have also written 2 training manuals for mountain athletes - Training for the New Alpinism and, more recently, Training for the Uphill Athlete. Both are available on their website www.uphillathlete.com

Of all of the guest requests that I receive from listeners, Steve House is the name that comes up most. Steve is one of the most respected alpine climbers of this generation. In a time when establishing a quantity of summits has a certain superficial appeal, Steve stays committed to quality. He moves through the mountains in light and fast style, and through his programs like Alpine Mentors and Uphill Athlete, he teaches other climbers to do the same. In this interview, we’ll profile his introduction to climbing, the importance of mentors, and his approach to training. He’ll also talk about an accident in 2010 that left him stranded on the wall. After Steve's interview, I’ll speak with Jeff and Susan Russell, the founders of Ridge Merino, in our Company Spotlight segment. Jeff Russell was heading up soft goods at Armada when he realized that all of the Armada athletes - when they weren’t at photoshoots - wore merino baselayers instead of the synthetic ones that Armada produced. Jeff and Susan set out to make youthful, cost effective merino base layers to fill the void. Get 20% off with the code "meister" at https://www.ridgemerino.com/ This episode is supported by Health IQ, an insurance company that uses science & data to secure lower rates on life insurance for health conscious people. healthiq.com/meister Links: Training for the New Alpinism - https://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Mountain-Steve-House/dp/0980122775   Beyond the Mountain - https://www.amazon.com/Beyond-Mountain-Steve-House/dp/0980122775   Uphill Athlete - https://www.uphillathlete.com/   Skyward Mountaineering - http://skywardmountaineering.com/   Alpine Mentors - https://www.alpinementors.org/        

Today I break down how the science is in on strength training improving your endurance for mountain biking.  I talk about the basic principles of maximal strength training and how to prep for it by using a general strength conditioning phase. Also, the 2017 19th Shenandoah Mountain 100 was announced and I talk about that.  Here's a link for Training for the New Alpinism at Patagonia's web site. Amazon has it too. Subscribe on iTunes Subscribe on Google Play

Today I break down how the science is in on strength training improving your endurance for mountain biking.  I talk about the basic principles of maximal strength training and how to prep for it by using a general strength conditioning phase. Also, the 2017 19th Shenandoah Mountain 100 was announced and I talk about that.  Here's a link for Training for the New Alpinism at Patagonia's web site. Amazon has it too.

Today I correct a mistake I made in talking about heart rate zone training.  As part of a series starting with this episode I'm talking about training, today I talked about Zone 1 and it's importance, as well as recovery rides. My main resource for training comes from a climbing training book, because I believe the cardio loads, and full body fitness requirements are very similar to high performance alpine rock and ice climbing: Long days where endurance and strength are tested in critical situations.  Here's the book: Training for the New Alpinism