Chemist Confessions

One of the top questions we get on sunscreen is - I want to layer foundation with my sunscreen is that okay? What does it mean for the level of sun protection I'm getting? That's a pretty complex question and thankfully - we have some great studies and recommendations to share. *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Do we Absorb Sunscreen Filters into Our Bloodstreams? https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/controversy-corner-do-we-absorb-sunscreen-filters-into-our-bloodstreams  Chemists' Ultimate Sunscreen Applicatin Guide https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/chemists-ultimate-sunscreen-application-guide  Don't just take it from us - check out other sources like AAD, PCPC, and IBA https://www.aad.org/public/everyday-care/sun-protection/shade-clothing-sunscreen/is-sunscreen-safe  Follow us: IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/ INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehack Resources Mentioned: Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a Only one quarter of sunscreens on store shelves are safe and effective, new report says  https://www.cnn.com/2025/05/20/health/2025-safest-sunscreens-wellness  A review of inorganic UV filters zinc oxide and titanium dioxide https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/phpp.12439  Understanding the causes of skincare product pilling https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/srt.13828  Interactions between different solar UVB/UVA filters contained in commercial suncreams and consequent loss of UV protection https://sci-hub.ru/https://link.springer.com/article/10.1039/b606768a  

Ever since we did round 1 of our CE Ferulic dupe tests, round 2 has been highly requested. This time around, the ascorbic acid serum contenders are: La Roche Posay Pure 12% Vitamin C Serum, Wild Fleur 15% Pure Vitamin C + Xanthophyll - Marigold Brightening Serum, Cerave Vitamin C Serum, Geek & Gorgeous Vitamin C Face Serum, Prequel Lucent C, and Vichy 16% Pure Vitamin C Brightening Serum We incubated these for 6 weeks, and the results are in. Let's see which reigned supreme, and which would we skip!   Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Blank Slate Gentle Gel Cleanser https://chemistconfessions.com/products/blank-slate-cleanser Enrichment Content: Podcast #139: Water vs. Anhydrous Vitamin C 5 CE Ferulic Dupes put to the Test Pt 1 https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test  Product Tested: Vichy LiftActiv Brightening (15% Vitamin C) - $34.99 : https://www.vichyusa.com/skin-care/skin-care-product-type/face-serum/liftactiv-vitamin-c-serum-vitamincserum.html CeraVe (10% Vitamin C) - $23.99 : https://www.cerave.com/skincare/facial-serums/skin-renewing-vitamin-c-serum Prequel Lucent C Brightening Vitamin C (15%) - $23 : https://prequelskin.com/products/lucent-c-vitamin-c-serum Geek & Gorgeous C-Glow (15% Vitamin C) - $13.90 : https://geekandgorgeous.us/products/c-glow Klairs Freshly Juiced Vitamin Drop (5% Vitamin C) - $23 : https://sokoglam.com/products/klairs-freshly-juiced-vitamin-c Wildfleur Pure Vitamin C 15% + Marigold Brightening - $26 : https://www.ulta.com/p/pure-vitamin-c-15-marigold-brightening-serum-pimprod2050101 La Roche-Posay 12% Pure Vitamin C - $46.99 : https://www.laroche-posay.us/our-products/face/face-serum/vitamin-c12-serum-3337875660570.html

Vitamin C, ascorbic acid, is famously known as the only rigorously tested antioxidant for age prevention. Yet this active is also notoriously known for its quirky characteristics in the classic CE Ferulic serum format. This unstable hot dog water has often generated concerns for using it long term. In this episode, the chemists discuss ascorbic acid's stability and compare vitamin C in water-based formulas vs. anhydrous formulas to see if there's a better format for this finicky active.  Products Discussed this 2025 Podcast Season *a small portion of your purchase through these links goes to feeding a chemist. https://shopmy.us/collections/1280514 Product Shoutout: Aquafix Hydrating Water Gel https://chemistconfessions.com/products/aquafix-hydrating-water-gel Enrichment Content: Podcast Ep - Which Vitamin C Derivative is Better? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b96PX4L6hsQ&t=82s Results of our CE Ferulic Dupe Test - Pt. 1 https://chemistconfessions.com/blogs/5-skinceuticals-vitamin-c-dupes-put-to-the-test Follow us: IG: https://www.instagram.com/chemist.confessions/ INTERWEB: https://chemistconfessions.com/ TIKTOK: https://www.tiktok.com/@chemistconfessions?lang=en Skincare questions for the podcast? Leave your question in the comments and it could be featured in our next episode! #chemistconfessions #skincarescience #chemistconfessionspodcast #skincarehacks  Resources Mentioned: https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/34986505/ https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1226086X17304422  https://www.mdpi.com/2079-9284/9/4/74  https://www.martiderm.com/int-en/product/vitamin-c-antiox  https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.1111/jocd.14837  https://www.smithsonianmag.com/smart-news/scientists-taught-pet-parrots-to-video-call-each-other-and-the-birds-loved-it-180982041/ https://onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1111/j.1468-2494.2008.00473.x

It's finally getting warmer and this means that we've already started testing our 2025 #30for30SunscreenChallenge tests! So this feels like a great time to do a special sunscreen news roundup episode. In this episode, we discuss why you can't buy Asian sunscreen formulas as easily anymore, what tariffs might mean for the sunscreen landscape, and interesting studies on sunscreen application. Oh! And in case you're curious, we also cover all the factors the UV index considers to help you make an informed decision on your sun protection of the day.

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following our cleanser science episode, we tested 5 of the topselling Kbeauty cleansing oils so you don't have to, which include: Skin1004, Beauty of Joseon, Anua, Ma:Nyo, and Haru Haru. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

On the topic of cleansers, a lot of the questions the chemists get are about the cleansing routine. One of the common questions is, “Can you just use water to cleanser your face?” The great thing is, this scenario has actually been tested (which is very rare). The chemists discuss the findings and what things to consider if you happen to be using just water to rinse your face. An unusual deep dive, but hopefully interesting and satisfying for those who've ever wondered. 

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ceramide deep dive, the chemists review 4 of the most popular drugstore moisturizers so you don't have to, which include: Vanicream, CeraVe, Cetaphil, and La Roche Posay Lipikar. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

The chemists are going down the ceramides rabbit hole again because many of you have asked, “Which ceramide is best?” The chemists explain the different types of ceramides and what the research says on which one you should be targeting in your skincare. 

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the ectoin deep dive, the chemists review two ectoin products so you don't have to. Products were chosen to showcase the diverse landscape of ectoin skicnare. This episode was recorded before the launch of Prequel's latest Ectoin cream. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective. 

Many of you asked about ectoin so the chemists went down the research rabbit hole. Ectoin is a new kid on the block with some surprising data in the skin barrier and hydration realm. The chemists talk about what it is, what it does for skin, and whether or not it's better than niacinamide.

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the pore care deep dive, the chemists review five toner pad products so you don't have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

When strategizing how to tackle pores, the science is about as random as the skincare landscape. The chemists tackle the biology, the ingredients, and the skincare to try to make sense of what steps can actually make a meaningful difference to help reduce pore size. Can “glass”, “egg”, poreless skin actually achievable?

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the spicules deep dive, the chemists review the top two spicule (reedle) skincare products so you don't have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspectives.

Continuing our journey of diving into exciting, trendy new ingredients, this week, the chemists take a closer look at all the science behind spicule skincare. Though these prickly bits derived from marine sponges definitely have some interesting data, we still have more questions on how to best use spicules… Let's jump in the rabbit hole!

In 2025, the chemists want to tackle both the science and practical application of skincare. Following the PDRN deep dive, the chemists review the top two PDRN skincare products so you don't have to. We discuss our thoughts on the texture and use experience from both the oily skin and dry skin perspective.

One of the most popular requests for us to decode is PDRN. Kbeauty continues to be at the center of trendy and exotic “new” skincare. This week, the chemists' dive into PDRN, fragmented DNA derived from salmon sperm? They discuss what it is, how it ended up in our skincare, and if there's any substantial evidence of PDRN's benefits for skin. Let's go down the rabbit hole!

We're kicking off the 2025 podcast season with a twist. With all of our new listeners and viewers, it's time to brush up on the fundamentals of who exactly the chemists are, how we analyze the science, and just what sort of decoding you can do to assess your skincare like an expert! Think of this as a primer into all the deep dives we'll be getting into and an episode dedicated to getting to know us and how our brains work on a deeper level. Enjoy!

It's the last episode of 2024! Reflecting back on the year, we're discussing top skincare science and animal fun facts. We also share our plans for the new year. The podcast has truly built an incredible community and we are so grateful to you all. Happy Holidays and we'll see you in 2025.

As a follow-up on last week's episode on skincare for certain age groups, this week, let's dive into estrogen-based skincare, in particular creams with estradiol or estriol. This prescription skincare realm aimed to treat peri and post-menopausal skin issues like irritation, redness, and dryness. So! Do they work? Are there other benefits beyond skin barrier care?

We all know that skin changes with father time, but how should you best skincare for your specific age? We discuss the science, what major timepoints to consider and what skincare you should be using in your teens, 20s, 30-40s, and 50s+.

Neck aging can be so difficult to address because of its complex biology. But can topicals do anything to help? Let's take a closer look at 3 neck cream clincals done by Replenix, Skinceuticals, and Revision skincare to see if you really need a dedicated product just for your neck area.

The holiday season is just looming around the corner. So whether you're taking advantage of the discounts for yourself, or on the market for loved ones, here are some of thoughts on on the beauty holiday deals. Join us for some shopping inspirations or just some laughs!

After a nice break from sunscreens, we had some time to dabble in lip SPF products. It turns out our lip skin actually has a lot less natural protection from both sun and dryness than the rest of our body. Thus, it only makes sense that having a good lip SPF (or two) is important to have handy. We tried 12 lip SPFS of various types and various price points and share all of our findings! The taste of some of these left quite a lasting impression.

Today we're going to attempt to tackle the vast landscape of peptides! It's a big topic but sadly without a lot of clarity. So let's nerd out with us on just what peptides are, how they work on skin, what skin concerns they're good for, and decode a few top peptide products. 

After listening to this podcast long enough, you'll probably get a sense that good testing data is sparse so we inevitably have to work with what we have! With the recent US ban of OTC hydroquinone products, it's worth noting that a notable few actives have done testing in direct comparison to hydroquinone. Though more testing is always needed, direct comparison studies are considered rare and top-tier in our books. In this episode, let's review why hydroquinone is so prolific and discuss actives that have actually been tested in direct comparison to hydroquinone.

This is a bit overdue! Arbutin is a hyperpigmentation active with a reputation as a hydroquinone alternative. So today we're tackling all the major questions around arbutin: Does it convert to hydroquinone on skin? Is it even a good hyperpigmentation active?

It's time for another wet blanket type episode - dark circles Just why are dark circles so hard to deal with? Do eye creams even work? We go through the data and discuss what you can actually do to treat this stubborn and complex skin concern.

We've put it off for long enough, today we're jumping into the very new, very hot realm of exosomes. These vesicle structures are getting a lot of attention because they've been tied to: stem cells, growth factors, fibroblasts…essentially all the juicy anti-aging good stuff. In this episode, the chemists attempt to make sense of exosomes' true purpose in skincare, share what benefits they can bring, and explain the current exosome landscape. Strap in because we get pretty nerdy here, but hopefully this episode gives you a good idea of “hot tech” and how it evolves in the skincare world.

We're wrapping up our acne series with a deep dive on acne patches. These face stickers often get tied to some pretty enticing claims like absorbing excess sebum and rapidly healing pimples. We discuss the science behind these mystical patches, what they actually do to acne lesions, and what are their real benefits. Finally, we end on our experiences trying 5 different acne patches on the market. Enjoy!

Continuing our acne series, we've been able to delve into some solid actives with pretty juicy data behind it, but there are quite a few less validated ingredients that are pretty popular and worth a look. In this episode, we look at succinic acid, mugwort, witch hazel, and tea tree oil. Four popular plant-ish actives that have gained some traction as magical home remedies for acne breakouts. Let's see if the data holds up shall we?

When it comes to fighting acne, benzoyl peroxide has been around for so long it almost seems like it's old-fashioned. However, because of its long history, BPO has a lot of great data and of the ingredients out there we actually have a very good understanding how it works to reduce breakouts. But are we actually using the right concentration? We dive into the research and discuss what concentrations we should all be trying to target and why.

Salicylic acid is probably the most common active ingredient you'll run into when putting together your acne routine. But is it actually a must have? What kind of acne can it actually treat? In this episode, we dive into a few key clinical studies that look at just what 2% salicylic acid really bring to your routine.

One of the more popular questions we get is about collagen supplements and whether or not it's a scam. We'd be lying if we said we haven't been avoiding this one, but no longer! In this episode, we go through the clinical data. We discuss why it's so hard to shop for good collagen supplements. Finally, we list our shopping tips and things to consider if you're thinking of adding this to your beauty routine.

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we're finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 2, we talked about our thoughts on baby sunscreens, international sunscreens, things we'd do differently in the future, and… pangolins? Let's wrap the sunscreen series!

After testing 30 sunscreens in 30 days, we're finally going through our favorites! There was so much to discuss that this ended up turning into a 2 part segment. In part 1, we discuss what factored into our ratings and why. We then go through our “0 star” ratings and why they were so painful. Finally, we discuss our favorites for the mineral and tinted category! Hope you enjoy as we tell all in our journey to trialing another 30 sunscreens for 2024.

You probably hear us often championing glycolic acid as the gold standard of exfoliation and a main active to consider having in your routine. However, AHAs are known to cause photosensitivity. Does that means we shouldn't use glycolic acid during summer months during higher chances of sun exposure? We discuss the data, what skin types should and shouldn't use glycolic acid, and how to best use this ingredient during summer.

This week we're taking a break from skincare ingredients, and we're talking about products. Specifically, toners! Toners will forever be a land of mystery. This category seems to always ends up in the spotlight, there are too many to choose from, and the claims can be all over the place. We decided to break down the product landscape, discuss some of the most popular toners of 2024, and weigh in on which toners we would want to use in our routine. It's toner time!

When tranexamic acid started gaining popularity a few years back, it felt similar to CBD. Suddenly it seemed like every brand was using it, but there didn't seem to be a lot of data shared on its effectiveness. In this episode, the chemists share the benefits that tranexamic acid can bring to skin, go through the testing (if any), and discuss whether or not it's a worthy addition to your skincare routine.

Because of the limitations of azelaic acid, it only makes sense that azelaic acid derviative, potassium azeloyl diglycinate is on the rise! We dive into whether or not this is a good replacement for azelaic acid, what are its actual benefits, and how to use PAD in your skincare routine!

The chemists don't talk about this ingredient as much as they probably should but azelaic acid has a solid amount of data behind it…at the prescription level 15-20% concentration. Naturally, you have to wonder if the 10% azelaic acid products you can purchase as a cosmetic would actually do anything for skin? They dissect the benefits of azelaic acid, discuss the formulation challenges behind this active, and ultimately how they would use a 10% azelaic acid product in their routine.

The chemists are gearing up for their 30 for 30 sunscreen challenge test! So naturally this is a great time to check up on some of the latest studies on sunscreens. We cover a large survey study on people's sunscreen application habits (spoiler alert: it's not great), an oil based vs water based cleanser study on sunscreen removal, a new J&J SPF50 vs SPF100 study, and an update on the ongoing studies on sunscreen's impact on coral reef.

We've reached the 100th Episode! This week we're going down memory lane ranking our top 5 podcast moments and our favorite skincare science. We also decide to reveal some true chemist “confessions”. We share what popular ingredients we might not be fully on board with and even what skincare steps we forget. Time for some fun!

We're back in the realm of plant extracts in skincare! This is a realm where real clinical data is quite sparse. So even simple questions like “does this extract work?” can be difficult to answer. In this episode, we discuss 3 plant ingredients with just enough interesting testing data for us to say “this is worth trying”.

Journeying into the more controversial ingredients, we first have to talk about petrolatum. One common question that we haven't answered yet is, “Will petrolatum clog my pores?” There's a surprising amount of data to discuss on this subject and after, we share best practices on using petrolatum in your skincare routine.

Taking a break from plant stuff and antioxidants, let's talk about the newer exfoliator on the block, gluconolactone. Uniquely, gluconolactone has been tied to many skin benefits, being called hydrating, brightening, exfoliating, to maybe even…acne fighting? Ultimately we dissect the data to discuss what exactly gluconolactone does for skin and how it compares to the classic AHAs. Tune in to learn if gluconolactone deserves a place in your routine and how to best shop for this category!

In this episode, we're continuing our Vitamin C series and are focusing on actives layering. Most of the questions we get are on whether or not you can layer certain actives with the very fussy ascorbic acid. We first review guidelines on the concept of layering, go through any evidence on ascorbic acid layering combinations, and finally discuss which pairings you should and shouldn't worry about.

We've dedicated many episodes to Vitamin C, but there's still more to cover! Recently, there have been a lot of Vitamin C launches and they are specifically for tackling hyperpigmentation. What makes this arena slightly confusing is that many of these products use Vitamin C derivatives. But, how helpful is Vitamin C in helping to tackle this very stubborn skin concern? And which Vitamin C molecule is best? We discuss all this and more. It's time to go down the rabbit hole again!

We've encountered many skincare users who have discovered that the Vitamin C realm is just not their cup of tea and neither is it for their skin. Enter resveratrol! We discuss what resveratrol is, its antioxidant capabilities, and why despite the amount of data, we consider this a solid option as a non-Vitamin C antioxidant replacement. You've been warned, we get nerdy here, but lets go down the rabbit hole shall we?

There's a lot of rice-based ingredients and rice-adjacent ingredients in skincare. They can span from functional ingredients such as waxes and thickeners to exotic actives like the very famous Pitera. Amongst all of these ingredients, there's one isolated active compound that we believe deserves some attention and that is kojic acid. This ingredient is a byproduct of the sake fermentation process and happens to have some solid data as a hyperpigmentation-fighting active. So let's dive in!

Centella Asiatica (aka cica) has continued to reign as a trendy plant-based active. For good reason! With origins as a wound healing ingredient, the research behind centella asiatica as a skincare ingredient has really grown. We go through the research update and talk about its benefits as a skin soother and possible anti-aging ingredient. Finally, we walk through how to shop for centella asiatica and ultimately how to hunt for the good stuff: madecassoside & asiaticoside.

In the world of AHAs, mandelic acid feels like that forgotten child. We always talk about the golden child, glycolic acid, as well as the more gentle exfoliator, lactic acid. So when would a person need mandelic acid in their life? We go through the data and discuss who it's good for, how much you should be using, and how to shop for this unique AHA.