The Podcast on alanarnette.com

Welcome to my new limited series on climbing the Seven Summits. Episode 1 is an introduction plus a brief update on the Autumn climbing activity in Nepal and Tibet. For the next eight weeks, I'll drop a new episode discussing one of the 7 Summits in detail. The Seven Summits, aka 7S, represent the highest point on each of the seven continents. However, as with most things in mountaineering, there is controversy. From a geological viewpoint, there are only six continents on Earth: Africa, Antarctica, Australia, Eurasia, South America, and North America. Europe is considered a peninsula of the Eurasia continental platform and is not an actual physical continent. However, from a political perspective, Europe is regarded as a continent; thus, Elbrus (18,513'/5642m), located on the border with Asia in southern Russia, represents Europe and not Mont Blanc (15,771'/4807m), which lies in the Alps on the border of France and Italy. The 7 Summits idea was hatched and first accomplished by American Dick Bass. He started with six summits in 1983: Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Elbrus, Denali, Vinson and Kosciuszko. Then, with guide David Breashears, he became the oldest person, 55 at the time, to summit Everest in 1985. Canadian Patrick Morrow became the first to summit all seven with Carstensz in addition to Kosciuszko in 1986. Italy mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner summited all the peaks without supplemental oxygen, a first, and completed the task in 1986. #7summmits Episodes will drop each week of: September 15: Introduction September 22: Mt. Kosciuszko, Australia - 7,310/2228m September 29: Mt. Blanc, France/Italy - 15,771'/4807m October 6: Vinson, Antarctica - 16,067/4897m October 13: Carstensz Pyramid (Puncak Jaya), New Guinea - 16,023/4884m October 20: Elbrus, Russia - 18,513/5642m October 27: Kilimanjaro, Africa - 19,340/5896m November 3: Denali, Alaska - 20,320/6194m November 10: Aconcagua, Argentina - 22,902/6960m November 17: Everest, Nepal/Tibet - 29,035/8850m --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Many of you have followed and know about Massachusetts native 19-year-old Ryan Mitchell, who summited Mt. Everest on May 23, 2024! In this extensive podcast, we discuss his experience from training to the summit and back home.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/07/everest-2024-podcast-ryan-mitchell-on-his-everest-summit-life-changing/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Everest 2024 might be remembered for summits, politics, deaths, ignored rules, near misses and disturbing allegations of sexual misconduct. It's difficult to put all this in a headline, but I believe the Everest guiding industry is at a Rubicon - a point of no return. Not to be lost in this mix is the joy and satisfaction felt by hundreds of summiteers. They worked and trained diligently to celebrate standing on the top of the world for only a few minutes. It's funny how you can work so long for a goal, and the moment is over in a blink, but the memory lasts a lifetime—well done to all who summited, to those who showed up. Once again, the Sherpas proved they dominated the mountain with impressive altitude performance. The Himalayan Database shows that between 1950 and 2023, 6,097 Sherpas have summited Everest compared to 5,899 members, and that gap is growing each year. However, more foreigners have died than Sherpas, 197 compared to 118. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/06/05/everest-2024-season-summary-everest-at-a-rubicon/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The week's activity on Everest revealed significant issues for climbers. While there were hundreds of summits and several deaths, it wasn't pretty. A route collapse at the Hillary Step could be the canary in the coal mine of Everest. Some Tibet-side teams summited. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/25/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-25-season-nears-the-end-with-summits-and-death/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Taking some personal liberty during this Everest 2024 season coverage, I want to share my 2011 Everest summit with an overview, narrative and Podcast. I hope you enjoy it. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/21/everest-2024-alan-remembers-his-2011-summit/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The week started well, but when the winds picked up, as forecasted, teams took risky chances that turned deadly. Now, with a better forecast, hundreds of climbers are positioned to summit over the next few days. Tibet-side teams are in place and looking at summit plans. This podcast has the weekend update plus a short narrative on the route between the Balcony and Everest's South Summit. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/18/everest-2024-weekend-update-may-18-windy-summits-and-death/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The first summiteers on Everest marked the beginning of the climbing rush. The rope fixers summited a few days ago, and over thirty-five climbers summited today.  Two climbers added to their summit collections to extend their records. Teams arrived at up base camp on the Tibet side, while a respected Sherpa sadly lost his life on Makalu. We're now entering the summit phase of the spring climbing season. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The final chapters of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, Part 15, drop today with chapters 49 and 56. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 16, our protagonist, Harper wrapped her arms around Claudia, watching the helicopter disappear over the top lip of the Khumbu Icefall, Pablo gently swinging from a rope hanging from the belly of the chopper. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/10/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-16-home-and-the-end/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

You know you've made your name in the climbing world when Reinhold Messner calls you “the best high-altitude climber in the world.” Today, Steve runs one of the most successful broad-based coaching services. Uphill Athlete, founded by Steve House and Scott Johnston in 2014, has become synonymous with all things mountain sports, from trail running and mountaineering to ski racing. I caught up with Steve for a wide-ranging Podcast.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/09/everest-2024-interview-with-uphill-athletes-founder-steve-house/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 15 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 46, 47, and 48. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 15, our protagonist, Harper along with Mingma, took a few more steps towards a snow bench and the prayer flag-covered summit. They could go no higher. Mingma keyed the radio and let out a yell, “Summittttttttttttt.” Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/05/08/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-part-15-summit/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 14 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 43, 44, and 45. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 14, our protagonist, Harper, is on her summit push with Mingma, her personal Sherpa. Dawa checks in on them. "Mingma heard the radio crackle, "Mingma, where are you?" It was Dawa monitoring the team from the South Col with three other Climbing Sherpas. "On the Ridge above the Balcony," Mingma told the Sidar." Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The biggest news from Everest is the lack of news. Typhone-force winds strafed the mountain like a summer hail storm in Colorado. Reports of forty or more tents were damaged at Camp 2. Despite this, a few teams continued their rotations, and more made plans as hopes increased the fixed ropes would reach the summit next week. The high winds of last week have calmed, and there is no typhoon activity of substance in the Bay of Bengal. Let's hope for a May of long weather windows! --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 13 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 39, 40, and 41. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 13, our protagonist, Harper, experiences climbing above Camp 3 for the first time.  She moved in lock-step behind Mingma, who led the train. He set a steady but swift pace, knowing that speed is your friend in these conditions and keeps you warm.  Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/everest/everest-2024-coverage/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 12 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 37, 38, and 38. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a FICTIONAL team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 12, our protagonist, Harper was confident and ready to get going. Sitting around base camp, even with the occasional hike to Pumori or Gorak Shep, was getting old. The conversation around the dining table was also getting old. It was time. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Everest's summit is slammed by hurricane-force winds, causing most teams to hunker down or pause rotations for a few days. However, the fixed ropes have reached the South Col. China confirms it will open the Nepal border on May 7th. This season will go down as all dressed up and nowhere to go - on both sides. First, on the Nepal side, as of the end of April, many teams have historically completed their rotations and are going into wait mode for the ropes to reach the summit. However, it appears that only a few have completed a meaningful amount of time this year at Camp 2. A few have tagged Camp 3, but almost no team spent the night at 7000 meters. To be fair, in recent years, many teams have dropped this difficult acclimatization at C3 in favor of using copious amounts of supplemental oxygen starting lower at Camp 2. Many teams have wrapped up their climbs on Mera, Island or Lobuche as an acclimatization activity instead of going through the Icefall one more time. These teams are returning to EBC and will make only one rotation to C2 before calling it good. Those in a rush—Flash/Speed/Rapid/Quick/Speed/Rabbit—whatever—will only go through the Icefall once on their summit push. Sherpas from Seven Summits Treks have the fixed ropes to the South Col. With the ten-day delay in fixing the Icefall; the Nepal government approved a plan to use helicopters to fly more gear to Camp 2 to fix the route to the summit. This is not unprecedented. On April 23, 2016, summit rope fixing gear (rope, anchors, oxygen for the Sherpas above the South Col) was long-lined to Camp 1 by helicopters - all approved by the Government.  It took six trips by helicopter plus a spotter in a separate helicopter to deliver the gear. No climbers or Sherpas were transported. This saved 87 Sherpa loads and potentially lives if there were another serac release or other natural disaster in the Icefall. This was a good move then, as it is today. So, while it feels slower than usual, the teams are making the best of it. So, if the ropes reach the summit by May 10, as advertised, we can expect the usual flood of summit waves to follow quickly. First will be the super large teams like the 100s from Seven Summits Treks and many other Nepali-run teams. The Western teams will patiently wait at EBC for them to kick in steps, clear out and then take their turn. Finally, we'll see the uber–patient teams make their summit push, targeting May 19–22. Again, all of this depends on the weather. Adrian Ballinger of Alpenglow says, "Just FYI, we got our Tibet invites and official word of the May 7 border opening. Locked and loaded!" They will cross the border along with climbers with Climbalaya and Furtenbach. However, another commercial team has given up on climbing Everest from the Tibetan side. Makalu Extreme joined Adventure Peaks, Kobler & Partner, and Arnold Coster to switch to the Nepal side. Makalu Extreme  posted this update revealing their frustration: Not much news from the Everest 2024 climb from the Makalu Extreme team. Today our guide Dorchy and our member Pavel are in Goraksher. Work on setting up the Base Camp will begin tomorrow. I would like to remind you that our team and two tons of expedition cargo urgently left Kathmandu on April 26. The expedition was urgently shifted to Nepal due to the negligence of the Chinese authorities. EverestEr reports in with their treatment Talley: As of April 29, Nepal has issued 390 climbing permits for Everest to 37 teams representing 60 countries. The United States has the most climbers, with 70, followed by China with 65. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 11 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 33, 34, 35 and 36. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 11, our protagonist, Harper, gets excited as Guide John Paul tells the team, "Good news, everyone. The first commercial team summited last night. The storm held off, and they threaded the needle. 20 Japanese members with 22 Climbing Sherpas. Japan has very strong climbers.” Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 10 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 31 and 32.  I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 10, our protagonist, Harper, takes the Lhotse Face, " Wanting to pass another climber, Harper makes eye contact with him. No words were spoken; only a nod was exchanged. Harper unclipped her 'biner while keeping the jumar attached. Harper reached around him to clip the 'biner back onto the rope ahead of him. He stood still not wanting to make any movement that might throw both of them off balance. Harper took a few small steps around him and reached back to unclip the jumar. Now successfully past, Harper reattached the jumar and continued climbing higher." Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 9 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 28, 29 and 30. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 9, our protagonist, Harper, and the team discuss what day they should target for their Everest summit, "Claudia smiled in admiration, "So, May 19th, it is!" Aaron dropped his head, deep in concentration. Dutch took center stage, "Today is May 2nd, so that's 17 days from now. We have to get back up to C2 then overnight at C3, and back here." Michael leaned in, "I think we need four days for the C3 rotation and at least six days for the summit push and return. That's ten days on the mountain, meaning we have seven days for rest and weather delays. Pretty tight." Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

This is the late April Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The headlines are significantly more positive than last weekend: Permits are a bit higher, which is good for the local economy but not so good for the mountain. The fixed ropes, aka the route, are all the way to Camp 2, thus opening the path for Sherpas to establish the upper camps and for clients to begin acclimatizing. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/21/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-21-route-to-c2-permits-catch-up/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 8 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 25, 26 and 27. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 8, our protagonist, Harper, and the team arrive at Camp 2 to continue acclimatization. The Mt. Everest Guides lead, John Paul, begins to explain how acclimatization works: "'Acclimatization' is a strange word that evokes many emotions. Fundamentally it means adapting the human body to an altitude where it was not designed to survive. Even though the percentage of oxygen in the air on Everest's summit is the same as on a beach in Rio, there are fewer molecules available to inhale. That's because there is less atmospheric pressure; thus, the oxygen, nitrogen, and carbon dioxide molecules spread out. It's the opposite of what a diver experiences with the pressure increasing as a diver goes deeper. Harper feels more weight, more pressure, whereas a climber has less available oxygen. That's why it's called 'thin air.'" Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 7 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 22, 23 and 24. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 7, our protagonist, Harper, and the team climb through the Icefall and into the Western Cwm. The team's oldest member, Jim, is struggling. “Any advice?” He asked their guide, John Paul, who had been close by his side all morning. “Slow, steady, and make sure you are always clipped in. No need to rush. We are making good time.” Jim appreciated the positive spin. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 6 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 17, 18 and 19. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, makes her first trip into the Khumbu Icefall. She was nervous, following Moingma, her combing Sherpa, "Mingma looked at her as Harper took a second carabiner off her harness. He went across first. Clipping in ‘biners to the two safety ropes on either side of the ladder, he stepped onto the first rung, then the second and without so much as a pause, he was across, standing there staring at her. Harper could almost hear him in a deep John Wayne drawl; “OK, kid, I showed you how to do it, now get on with it.” #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 5 of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 14, 15 and 16. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months. In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, now at Everest Base Camp, is enjoying the smells from home as she unpacked her duffle when she is suddenly interrupted. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update in mid-April. This week's headlines are a bit concerning. The fixed line that should already be at Camp 2 is only halfway through the Icefall. I'm not sure this is bad news for climbers, but Everest permits lag significantly from 2023, down 34%. However, we saw the first 8000er summits this past week, with many more to come. Base Camp at Everest is filling up. Trekkers are on the move, and mountains are seeing summits. Hello, spring 2024. #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 4 of Everyday Everest,  my new Podcast series, covers chapters 11, 12 and 13. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.In Part 4, our protagonist, Harper, visits a Monastery and observes the monks during their daily prayers, "Without a cue, the drumbeat began. One of the senior Monks started his chant – actually a prayer. Others joined in. They created an unbelievable resonance that built as it bounced off the artfully painted walls. Harper closed her eyes to take this moment in without the filter of sight. It was spiritual and sensory.#everest2024Climb On!AlanMemories are Everythinghttps://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/13/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-part-4-blessing-in-the-khumbu/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

In 2024, Everest has become completely commercialized. Shock, right? Well, Will Cockrell's new book, Everest, Inc: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World, tells us how it happened. If you love Everest, despise it or don't really care, this book has something for everyone. In this fascinating read, Will did extensive research and uses quotes from original interviews with more than a hundred Western and Sherpa climbers, clients, writers, filmmakers, and even a Hollywood actor; the voices of the people who have made the mountain what it is today. In this Podcast, Will tells me that he positioned Everest, Inc. as the opposite of Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air. His book gets to the heart of the mountain through the definitive story of its greatest invention: the Himalayan guiding industry. It all began in the 1980s with entrepreneurs like Rob Hall and Gary Ball, Todd Burleson and David Breashears, with Dick Bass establishing a new, innovative industry for climbing high-altitude mountains, including Mt. Everest. Many of the pioneers are still living and climbing today and have helped thousands reach their climbing dreams. I talk through the three areas of commercialization with Will: the industry's formation in the 1980s and '90s, the early 2000s, when Western companions dominated guiding climbing Nepal, and the late 2000s, until today, when Nepali-owned operators lead 80% of all commercial clients. Everest, Inc: The Renegades and Rogues Who Built an Industry at the Top of the World will be published by @simonandschuster imprint @gallerybooks on April 16, 2024. You can read about Will on his website and YouTube. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/12/everest-2024-interview-with-will-cockrell-on-his-new-book-everest-inc/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Part 3 of Everyday Everest,  my new Podcast series, drops today with chapters 8, 9 and 10. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home. I'll have a twenty-minute episode a few times weekly for the next two months.  In Part 3, our protagonist, Harper, sees Everest from the Everest View Hotel just above Namache Bazaar: "Harper stopped. They all stopped, quietly letting their eyes trace the Khumbu Triple Crown: Everest, Lhotse, and Nuptse—two of the fourteen highest mountains on the planet. The signature white plume flowed off the summit of Everest like a bride's long wedding gown train. Mother Goddess of the Earth never looked more lovely. Tony spoke, "I have been dreaming of this since the sixth grade." Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything #everest2024 Everest 2024: Everyday Everest Podcast Series Part 3–The Trek Begins --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Welcome to Part 2 of  Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. I'll continue my annual coverage as usual.Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll have a twenty-minute updated episode of the story a few times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home to trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push, returning home.In Part 2, our protagonist, Harper, looked at the Boudhanath stupa with admiration. The 2015 earthquake damaged the stupa, but you would never know that now. She looked at the eyes of Buddha and remembered the saying, "Buddha is always watching." Somehow, she found that comforting.The main characters areHarper - protagonist, strong climber,  Aconcagua, Denali (Husband -Marc, Daughter - Olivia, Son - Jay)Dutch - solid climber, quirkyTony - solid climber, introvert, impatientMichael - Good experience, Manaslu, good friendJim - Second Everest attempt, not strongAaron - good climber, strong friendBart - good climber, strong friendPablo - weak mentally, Aconcagua, DenaliClaudia - strong climber,  Aconcagua, DenaliGuide John Paul - highly experienced, patient, good leaderSidar and Guide - Dawa SherpaGuide - Gyalzen SherpaGuide - Tenzing SherpaWe will go through Everest climbing each day as the team arrives in Kathmandu, flies to Luka, and treks to EBC. We'll follow them at base camp through the acclimatization rotations and receive invaluable help from the Icefall Doctors and Climbing Sherpas. And, of course, the summit pushes starting in mid-May.While there will be accurate historical references, this series is a work of fiction. Names, characters, and incidents either are products of the author's imagination or are used fictitiously. Any resemblance to actual events, locales, or persons, living or dead, is entirely coincidental.Next up is Part 2, "Kathmandu"Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Welcome to the kick-off of Everyday Everest, my new Podcast series during the Everest 2024 climbing season. Based on my 2020 Virtual Everest series, I'll read an updated version of the story a couple of times a week for the next two months. Everyday Everest follows a fictional team of nine climbers and their personal Sherpas from leaving home, trekking to base camp, acclimatizing, and finally, on their summit push. The story's protagonist, Harper, sets the tone for the story when she tells her husband, Marc, "Honey, I'm going to climb Everest." #everest2024 Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/08/everest-2024-everyday-everest-podcast-series-welcome-and-part-1/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Welcome to the Everest 2024 Weekend Update. The Everest spring season is on track. Hundreds of people are advancing towards Everest Base Camp on the Nepal side of the Mountain. The Tibet side remains quiet, as teams will not arrive for at least another week. There are a few snags here and there, but nothing serious at this point. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/04/07/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-7-climbers-on-the-trek/ Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

If it's April, it must be time for Everest. The Icefall Doctors are hard at work. Climbers and trekkers are making their way through the Khumbu or driving from Lhasa. Shepars and base camp crews are building tent platforms and preparing their spots for the teams. Yaks and mules are meandering ever higher, loaded with supplies. Katmandu is filled with tourists and visitors, boosting the local economy. Hang on, everyone. It's time. #everest2024https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/03/31/everest-2024-weekend-update-april-1-season-underway-lost-legends/ Climb On!! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

We are getting closer to #Everest2024, and there are some new rules Nepal is proposing. In this interview with Garrett Maddison, founder of Madison Mountaineering, we meet Garrett and how he started his company. We also discuss his recent “Aconcagua Ambush,” where he and his client summited the highest peak in South America, spending only one night on the mountain and using an experimental oxygen system that has promised other high peaks. Also, his thoughts on Nepal's plan to require all climbers to use WAG bags to remove solid human waste from Everest high camps, the use of helicopters on Everest, and a limit on luxuries at base camp.https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/2024/02/19/everest-2024-interview-with-garrett-madison-on-his-aconcagua-ambush-and-the-upcoming-everest-season/ You can follow Maddison on their website, Facebook, and IG. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

How can a 19-year-old can afford to climb Everest? Well, Ryan Mitchell, 19, living in central Massachusetts, explains how in this podcast. Ryan, a Summit Coach client, contacted me about a year ago, wanting advice and coaching on how to climb Everest in the Spring of 2022. He had little to no experience, so while I told him there were many companies who would take his money and have him on Everest, the best approach would be to wait at least a year and gain the skills and experience it would take to make a safe attempt on the world's highest peak. He agreed, and we've been working together for the past twelve months. In this podcast, Ryan explains how he is funding his climbs, his training approach, and critically, is his "why" You can follow him on YouTube at https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCIDQSqdVuNwtfRMKqfX-o7g https://www.youtube.com/@RyanMitchellYT I know you will enjoy this. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The past few months have been difficult in the mountaineering world. We have seen climbs on many 800ers that turned out tragically: Mohammed Hassan on K2, Anna Gutu, Migmar Sherpa, American Gina Marie Rzucidlo and Tenjen Lama Sherpa on Shishapangma. A few dramatic rescues and a never-ending quest for records. I turned to long-time alpinist Adrian Ballinger, co-founder of Alpenglow, to try and make sense of what's going on, what can be done to prevent these seemingly preventable deaths and if the pursuit of records is worth the risks. We also discuss his return to Everest planned for 2024 after missing the last four seasons due to China's closure on their side of Everest .Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

I caught up with German Alpinist Jost Kobusch, who now lives in Chamonix, France, to discuss his upcoming 2023/24 winter, no O's, solo attempt of Everest's West Ridge. No climber has reached the summit using this route and precise style. He will begin climbing on December 22, 2023, the beginning of the astronomical calendar winter. He will complete his climb no later than February 28, 2024. In 2019, Jost reached his high point of 7,329-meters/23,750-feet. His second attempt in the winter of 2021/22 ended much lower, around 6300 meters/20,669 feet, when the jet stream moved over Everest bringing hurricane-strength winds to the area. So he returns for his third climb, hoping to tag 8000 meters and get a good look at the Hornbein Couloir. He will pre-acclimatize on two 7000-meter peaks as part of his Altitude Academy,  a training program of sorts open to anyone. We cover a range of topics from what he learned from his previous attempts, his 2021 solo, the winter summit of Denali and even back to 2017 when he began climbing in this style in Pakistan's 7296m high Nangpai Gosum II (great video on YouTube.) We also discuss what he's doing differently this time, his style of solo, no O's, and more. I think you'll enjoy meeting this 31-year-old climber. He sees three issues: His physical condition The mountain conditions Weather You can follow his climb on his website, which has an excellent 3D GPS tracking map using Zoleo, and also on his social media channels Facebook, Instagram, and YouTube. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Norwegian Kristin Harila, 37, Tenjen (Lama) Sherpa summited all fourteen 8000ers in three months and 1 day (92 days.) The first was Shishapangma on April 26, 2023, and the last K2 on July 27, 2023. In 2022, Harila summited twelve of the fourteen, but China refused them entry into Tibet to attempt Shishapangma and Cho Oyu thus, she returned this year to complete her project. She is no stranger to mountaineering. In 2021, she became the fastest woman to climb Everest and Lhotse in a record 12 hours. The 36-year-old is from Vadso/Norway and is a former cross-country skier. Today, she claims her profession as a runner, skier and former mountaineer as she announced she is retiring from climbing with the end of this project. While she came to mountaineering late, she's summited twenty-eight 8000-meter peaks since her first, Everest, in 2021 and made a name for herself with several records, including: Fastest person, together with Sherpa Lama overall, to True summit all 14 peaks over 8000m in 3 months and 1 day (July 27th, 2023) Fastest person overall to summit the five highest mountains in the world in 69 days, Everest, K2, Kanchenjunga, Lhotse, Makalu. Fastest woman to climb Mount Everest, 8848 and Mount Lhotse, 8516, in less than 8 hours on May 23rd, 2023. The previous record for reaching the true summits of the 8000ers was five years and four months by Nirmal Purja Pun Magar. Both climbers have been criticized by some in the climbing community for climbing with too many Sherpas, using supplemental oxygen and using helicopters to fly from mountain to mountain. Harila's journey was not with controversy. They included switching teams and Sherpas from 2022 to 2023, using helicopters to fly Sherpas to Camp 2 on Manaslu, and the one that caught global attention when a High Altitude Porter, Muhammad Hassan, not climbing with her team died on K2. Her team gave aid, but he died. A video taken hours later showed other climbers, not Harila's team stepping over the dead body on the way to the summit. Harila was widely criticized for his death, yet her team did everything to save his life. The Pakistani government investigated the incident and posted a detailed report clearing Harila's team of any wrongdoing and gave her photographer, Gabriel Tarso, an “appreciation letter” for his effort to save a life that night. We explore all of these controversies in detail in this podcast. This is the full report for download: Muhammad Hussain's Death on K2 and Kristin's report on her website. A GoFundMe account is open for donations to support Mr. Hassan's family. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Climber, author, and journalist Billi Bierling is well-known in the mountaineering world for her work with the Himalayan Database. We get to know Billi in this podcast, discuss the commercialization of mountaineering, her new book and the future of the HDB Remember to visit my blog for frequent updates on all things mountaineering. https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The 2023 Everest spring season is over, with some records to take pride in and others to be avoided. If there were one word to summarize the season, it would be chaotic or perhaps deadly. This spring was the deadliest season in history on Everest. Nepal issued a record 478 climbing permits to foreigners. Add in one and a half Sherpa supporting each foreigner; over 1,200 people pursued the summit this spring. Fears were rampant of a 2019 repeat with long lines and deaths. The lines never developed, thanks in part to colder weather that sent a higher number of climbers home in mid-season, many with a persistent virus. However, the deaths developed, but not because of the record permits or climate change. These are red herrings to abdicate responsibility. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Monday, May 22nd, was a windy but good day for summits and records. About fifty more people summited, advancing the season total to close to 500. The season could end this week as winds will become too dangerous. In this Podcast, we have reached the summit, and I describe how it feels and then the descent to Camp 2. Remember that you can see daily updates on my blog at https://www.alanarnette.com/blog/ Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

With masses of climbers on Everest, today we saw over 100 more summits bringing the season total to over 166 and the sixth death of the season. There were many "records" set as well, some in the beholder's eye. Several hundred remain to attempt the summit. Narrative on climbing to the summit Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

It looks like ten people summited Everest in the leading part of the first wave. Scores, if not over a hundred, are staged at Camp 2, waiting for the South Col camps to be fully stocked. The weather continues to hold with good conditions and winds under the 30 mph threshold through May 20. Many teams are eyeing Wednesday, May 17th for their summit day. Look for summits each day this week. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

As forecasted, the winds have let up, allowing the rope team to continue fixing it to the summit. This will open the mountain for scores for clients with one or more Sherpas in support. Look for a busy first wave of summits over the next few days. The question is, how many people will be on their summit push this weekend? Almost every team has completed their acclimatization programs and is ready. The lack of fixed rope to the summit and high winds above Camp 3 has stalled everyone, frustrating some team leaders. Some forecasts have acceptable summit winds, under 30 mph/48 kph through May 20. If this pans out, there will be plenty of time for everyone to have their shot at the top. Thus, it becomes a question of how the team leaders will cooperate and coordinate their summit pushes. Nepal issued 467 permits, and each foreigner, aka client or member, has at least one Sherpa climbing with them. Some have two or more. Last year's final statistics showed 683 summits on the Nepal side broken down as 256 members and 415 Sherpas in support, yielding a ratio of 1: 1.62. By the way, for members, 75% of those who climbed above base camp made the summit. According to the Himalayan Database, the top reasons for ending a climb once above base camp are: Exhaustion, frostbite, Weakness or Lack of Motivation Other Illnesses or Pain Bad Weather (storms, high winds, etc.) In a typical year, around 25% of the clients abandon their expedition. Some get hurt, others are bored, and some figure out they are in over their head and wisely return home, hoping, perhaps, to learn from this experience and return one day better prepared. If that holds for 2023, we'll see around 350 members instead fo 467, making the crowds more manageable. Almost as a final kiss, high winds knocked down many tents at Camp 2 over the last few days. No one was injured, but some tents were lost. The best teams have spares, while others go begging for replacements. Just another normal day on Everest! One fly in the summit ointment is that Camp 4 at the South Col has not been established. By this time in a normal season, Sherpas have stocked it with ample supplies like tents, stoves, fuel and oxygen. Some teams will skip this first wave until it's established, while others will have the Sherpas do double work by supporting their client and carrying huge loads. This is an example of how Sherpas are so critical to climbing Everest for practically every client. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

The #Everest2023 season is taking shape as teams continue to acclimatize with rotations to Camps 1 and 2, with some tagging Camp 3 at 23,000 feet or 7,000 meters. In this interview with Garrett Madison, founder of Madison Mountaineering from Everest Base Camp, we discuss the record permits, his acclimatization strategy, addressing the human waste problem, the long route through the Icefall and their attempt to summit the difficult and highly technical Nuptse. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Everest teams are doing the usual acclimatization rotations but are seeing heavy attrition that will ease crowding concerns. There's a new level of base camp luxuries that might be beyond the pale for some purists.  Heavy snow is forecasted on Dhaulagiri, stalling movement there. Overall, it's been a low-drama year, thankfully. In this episode, I explore controversy on Shishapangma, exploding luxuries at Everest base Camp, and a narrative about the Western Cwm between Camps 1 and 2 on Everest. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/alan-arnette1/support

Weekend Update While teams are as high as Camp 2 on Everest, most of the attention was on Annapurna, where one climber died, and two other climbers were miraculously rescued. Heavy snow hit Everest, but climbing continued. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits topped 400, a record for the Nepal side. The fixed rope was set to the South Col. I expect it reach the summit late next week. I cover a few topics in this update: - Noel Hanna death on Annapurna - Annapurna Anurag Maloo miracle rescue - Baljeet Kaur rescue - Record Everest permits - First steps in the Khumbu Icefall Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything

This was a week of highs and lows across the Himalayas. On Everest, three Sherpas lost their lives in the Icefall. The season's first 8000 meters summits occurred on Saturday, April 16, on Annapurna. Everest Base Camp is filling up as permits top 300. And a description of the first days at base camp and the puja. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Lukas Furtenbach, a major mountaineering expedition guide company and is now a top supplier of supplemental oxygen systems to all teams climbing Everest.  He partnered with Neil Greenwood of Summit Oxygen to create Everest Oxygen focusing on supplying supplemental oxygen to the mountaineering industry. His Austrian-based Furtenbach Adventures offer global climbs, including most of the 8000-meter mountains, the Seven Summits, the Volcanic Seven Summits, and Ski Mountaineering. However, they have made a name for themselves with their "Flash Expeditions," which takes only three weeks to climb Everest, compared to the classic style, which takes six to eight weeks. One of his secrets is using an altitude tent, aka a hypoxia chamber, that acclimatizes his clients to 7,00 meters (23,000 feet) at home. This reduces the number of rotations required before the summit push and reduces the overall time spent at base camp.  It's not really a secret as anyone can rent or buy a tent, and other companies like Alpenglow out of Lake Tahoe, California, also specialize in rapid expeditions. However, Furtenback's team out of Innsabruk closely monitors their client's progress over the eight weeks they sleep in the tent, making daily changes to optimize the process. Lukas is also investing in advanced technology to remotely monitor his customer's health while climbing and evolving the oxygen regulator, the brains of the system that manages flow rates, to allow for an unprecedented eight liters per minute (lpm) flow. He only uses this high flow rate for short sections, for example, on the Hillary Step, to allow the climber to move faster. Otherwise, they run at today's traditional two, four and six lpm rate. In this Podcast, we explore the evolution of using supplemental oxygen, Lukas's approach and several other Everest topics. We cover:  2:24 - The Chinese closure of Everest for the past four years, and will they open in Autumn for 8000ers?  4:45  - Will COVID be a factor for Everest 2023?  5:55 - Furtenbach Adventures Carbon Neutral approach to mountaineering 10:02 - Climbing Everest in three weeks vs. six to eight weeks 11:35 - Pre-acclimatizing at home using altitude tents 22:13 - The history of altitude tents (In France in the late 1970s) 25:52 - Is using supplemental oxygen cheating? 29:54 - Everest Oxygen supplies systems to other teams 30:04 -  Understanding the Oxygen Delivery System 47:22 - Types of Delivery Systems 52:14 - Remote Monitoring of a Climber's Health 56:17 - Everest 2023 Predictions They will update their ⁠social media, ⁠Facebook⁠, Twitter, and  ⁠Instagram⁠, throughout the expedition. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Scott Lehmann and Shayna Unger, are aiming to be the first American deaf couple and, to their knowledge, the second and third deaf climbers to summit Mount Everest. Also, they are trying to become the first deaf couple to compete the Seven Summits. Both were born, as they say, profoundly deaf, meaning they had no hearing at all. They live in the Washington, D.C., area and are educators and mountaineers. They summited Denali, Aconcagua, Kilimanjaro, Ecuador's Chimborazo and Cotopaxi, and Mont Blanc, plus Scott has all the US High Point. A third-generation deaf person, Scott is an educator and a mountaineer. Given the lack of deaf representation in the outdoors and lack of communication access to outdoor education, the outdoors was not a big part of Scott's life until he was 23 when he climbed a mountain for the first time. Shayna is a deaf woman, an educator and a mountaineer. Growing up, Shayna often went on camping trips with her deaf family in the 1990s, but they never did. They have full access to outdoor sports. It was not until college that Shayna started traveling and fell in love with climbing mountains. We cover how they will communicate with other climbers, plus the Sherpas, during their climb. They are also promoting their project, Seeing Beyond: Seven Summits. As they say on their site: Seeing Beyond: Seven Summits is not just about Scott and Shayna being the first deaf individuals to reach Seven Summits, the highest peaks on each of the world's seven continents–it is also about two deaf people sharing a dream with their own community, the deaf and hard-of-hearing community. They are climbing with Seven Summits Treks and will update their website, and their social media, Facebook, Instagram and You Tube throughout the expedition. Climb On!AlanMemories are Everything

German Alpinist Jost Kobusch became only the third person to complete a solo winter Denali Summit successfully. He summited on Sunday, February 19, 2023, around 3:00 am. I caught up with him at his home in Chamonix, France, only a few weeks after his summit. Jost style is to climb alone during a season that few other people would choose. He climbs completely unsupported and often on the most difficult routes. On Denali, he summited via the Messner Couloir. We cover route, gear, weather, what he learned, and his plans for another Everest West Ridge climb in late 2023. Jost is doing a several-part series on his Facebook page, including his clothing, footwear, handwear and face wear. Visit and follow to learn more about how he pulled this feat off. I think you'll enjoy meeting this 30-year-old climber. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Becks Ferry is back in the Nepal Himalaya mountains 2023 for Makalu, but with a twist - she will climb the fifth highest peak at 27,825 feet/8481 meters without supplemental oxygen and then run the 225 miles back to Kathmandu! In 2021, along with British Professional Mountain Guide Jon Gupta, they climbed on six peaks reaching the main summits of three. Everest (Summit) Makalu (reached 7500m) Lhotse (Summit) K2 (Summit) Manaslu (Fore Summit ~8160m) Dhaulagiri (reached 7817m) We cover a range of topics, from how this mother of five children, ages 13 to 19, got into climbing to all the climbs in this fast-paced interview. I think you'll enjoy meeting Becks, hearing about her family and, why she climbs and her Makalu project. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything

Welcome to the first Podcast for the Everest 2023 season. In this podcast, I talk about what we can expdct this year, now with the Tibet side closed again. I expect 2023 to be a big year for Everest-Nepal. With the COVID-19 pandemic letting up, Nepal is open. It expects many foreigners attracted by Nepali operators marketing low prices and requiring minimal climbing experience but providing tons of Sherpa support. I expect almost 1,000 total summits broken out by 400-450 foreigners from the Nepal side supported by 450-500 Sherpas. We can anticipate three to six deaths on the Nepal side. Nepal reportedly still requires a COVID vaccination to enter the country. I strongly advise checking with your country's embassy in Nepal for the latest COVID regulations, even though they seem to have loosened them substantially. Best of luck to all for a safe and rewarding season. Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything