Wilder Mind Podcast

Miranda Oakley is many things deserving of high praise. An AMGA Rock Guide, Wilderness First Responder, traditional free climbing expert and elite big wall climber. Her first ascents all over the world and incredible technical feats in Yosemite are absolutely awe-inspire. Recently she has added the role of mother to this list, and today we get to hear from her and Producer Marley Jeranko talk about this brave and courageous new journey.

As a young professional athlete, photographer and route setter, Caleb carries a world view that many around him may never experience in the same way he does. His thoughtful examination of the world, his place within it, and how he might positively impact it for others going forward is worthy of high admiration. This conversation looks at the state of racism in America in hopes that we all might find a way towards a better future for all.

With a long family history of mental health challenges informing his world view, Ted began to notice a lot of people around him in quiet struggles of their own. As a filmmaker, and someone who lives within the dimension of clinical depression, Ted grabbed his camera and created a documentary of self-discovery. This conversation looks at mental health in a raw and real way, letting it be scary, letting it be hard and letting ourselves find time to heal. Because in our darkest time, we can feel so alone. Hopefully Ted's words help us all feel a bit more understood.

After qualifying for the 2020 Olympics, the global pandemic threatened to risk Kyra's dream. But instead, she persevered, building a home climbing wall and continuing to train for an additional year. No outdoor climbing, no “just for fun” days with friends–just repetitive, intense days getting stronger and fortifying all-around skill. Yet, after all that, Kyra came home without a medal. This conversation looks at failure and sacrifice–it asks: What happens when everything we've been striving for doesn't work out the way we expect it to? Because nothing is guaranteed, and sometimes, we can't control the outcome, no matter how hard we try.

A notification crossed my phone screen. It was from a dear friend, a cis white woman (whose name will go unmentioned to protect the identity of her and her family). The message was about her younger sister, a cis Black girl, not even a teenager and questions she was asking about #Blacklivesmatter. I quickly picked up the phone and called her. Over an hour of conversation surrounding the uprising and the impact on her younger sister. Many tears, some moments of levity, and a new sense of closeness to this incredible human. We talked about this episode, about her sharing the story. We decided that to protect all involved, that it be shared under anonymity. The entire script has been reviewed and approved by her, with one condition- she asked to "flood my feed" with joyful photos of her sister and family. The ten photos and one video that followed via text message filled my heart with pure joy and fullness beyond measure. There's no way to properly describe the energy, the smile and fire. I can't thank her enough for sharing these wonderful moments with me. So this is to You, my friend. With love, compassion and hope.

Courtney and I recorded this episode as part of the process for a film that we were shooting for one of her sponsors, Sufferfest Beer Company. Over the course of the following days not only did her and our production crew have an absolute blast, we witnessed her never ending support of the community. Everyone that passed by on the trail or the sidewalk received a warm greeting from her. From talking with fellow athletes about their endurance goals to running alongside a passerby to help motivate him to keep pushing forward, it's clear how much she loves the community that loves her back. Courtney is a bit of a mystery to many; presumably powered by an imposing and unspoken darkness that compels her to use the power of her mind and feet to race and win the world's toughest ultra marathons. In the greatest flip of the script she fights no demons or deep darkness. Rather, she excitedly seeks the deepest recesses of the pain cave, pitting herself against the elements of the wild spaces, the long enduring miles and the mental sufferfest to find the brightness on the other side. And she does so with class unlike any other, kindness of a school teacher (which she once was) of and the rhythm of an eclectic mix from her old iPod shuffle! When she crosses the finish line, often the first one to do so, she enjoys the crispness of a fresh beer, a big ol' plate of nachos and the company of her loving husband Kevin, family and friends. On a personal note, I'm floored to have spent time with one of personal heroes; listening, learning and sharing her story both here on the podcast and through a short film we produced. Sometimes this life seems so unreal and it's an absolute honor to be here, alongside all of you. To you wildest self, be true.

The world is a confusing and tricky place right now and we need our communities more than ever. I've called on some old friends, that long time listeners of the podcast will recall hearing from before, to chat about the importance of community. Thanks to Abbie Hearne, Anna Callaghan and Brett Farrell for being here, with the pod, and with all of us.

With a partnership spanning 39-1/2 years (it’s an exact figure, they ran the numbers) Mark and Jordan have gained a large amount of attention from many in the climbing community who love following their adventures throughout the American southwest and beyond. Although, it’s not just their span in age that grabs the attention – it’s the go hard ethic, their commitment to climbing “as free as can be” (the mantra coined by Hudon and partner Max Jones in the late 70’s while pioneering big wall free climbing in Yosemite) and their commitment to making sure that, no matter what the mission, “fun is job one” (another bit of wisdom from Hudon). Jordan chronicles many, if not all, of their climbing missions via his IG stories and rumor has it a film is in the works (you’ll hear/you heard a bit about that in the episode). Even through an iPhone video, the two bring you along the journey, start to finish, making you feel as if you’re part of it all. Part of the inside jokes. Part of the trials and tribulations. Part of the joys and anguish. As if it’s all something bigger than just climbing. Because, it is. Through these two we gain a front row seat to witness a rare perspective on life. Jordan, still in the early stages of his, and Mark, in the latter. They joke and make light but the reality is, as Mark puts it “I’m sort of looking at the end and he can’t even see the end” – which sets it all into such a stark juxtaposition. This journey that they’re living is nearly a complete story – through their individual views – all told at once. From the same bivvy ledge, the same rope, the same wall. Who knows if and when such a tale will be told again. Thankfully for them and the community, the journey is far from over. Somewhere, in the southwestern corner fo the US, they’re planning the next big push. They’re discussing logistics, efficiency tactics, pouring over their tick lists and tinkering with schedules. And we can be sure, even in the planning stage, they’re having a hell of a good time about it. To your wildest self, be true.

Irene and I had met some time back at the summer outdoor retailer show where we quickly bonded over the copious amounts of free snacks and our high natural stoke levels.  A friendship was sparked and, amongst our busy schedules, we finally found time months later to sit and record a podcast in Joshua Tree NP. Since then, we’ve filled restaurants and crags with our loud laughter, deep conversation and discovering ways to grow alongside and perhaps even at the helms of our communities. When we recorded, Irene had been in Joshua Tree for the inaugural All Women's Single Pitch Instructor course hosted by the AMGA. She had initially been invited to join as an attendee, but after careful considering of what she could gain from it vs. what an aspiring guide could, she decided to allow someone who would benefit from it take the spot. Her desire was still strong to take part, so she offered up her photography and rope access skills to capture this amazing event. Before I met Irene, I knew of her from a feature in Climbing Magazine (the famous portrait shot through the carabiner) and recall being so psyched to see another Asian-American outside at the helm of the exciting new wave of rock climbers. It was motivating and empowering to see someone that looked like me in the spaces and activities that I love and to now have this opportunity to share the ways that she elevates our communities and wild spaces is quite special to me. And to call her a friend and ally is something I’ll never take for granted. As humans we often wonder what sort of space we should occupy, what new skills we should attain to push further into our pursuits and if the scenes and activities that captivate our minds and souls will accept us. Irene has dedicated her work behind the lens to showcasing those of us who are not seen as often in certain spaces to help encourage positive interactions and inclusivity. It’s a journey of hope, of courage and bold self discovery. I hope her words encourage you to pursue that which exists in the depths of your soul with every ounce of energy and conviction you have. To fight for diversity and inclusion in the spaces and activities you love. And, on a personal note, I hope that she can help you see yourself in a more positive light, as she’s done for me. To your wildest self, be true.

An episode of love, life and the pursuit of all things joyful.

Today I am so PSYCHED to share the words of Dory Trimble, Executive Director of the Honnold Foundation, outdoor enthusiast and newly minted connoisseur of hot yoga. Just over 2 years ago Dory started with the HF as an intern to quickly rise through the ranks and lead the efforts in shaping the foundation into the thriving entity that it is today. Her passion for promoting social change is evident in both her work with the foundation providing energy access to developing communities and also the path that lead her there. From solving complex problems and building systems from the ground up for orthopedic surgeons in Utah, undocumented youth in the Dominican Republic and migrant farm workers in rural Appalachia she has dedicated her energies to elevating often peripheral communities. As in our many conversations, Dory and I discuss a good bit about the energies in our lives and what we can and should dedicate to our professional development, communities and outdoor activities. Within that, we delve into the ways that our perceived failures in our athletic pursuits impact the story of our self worth and the importance of consciously seeking happiness in all corners of our lives.

Wow. 2020 is here and The Wilder Mind Podcast is officially 1 year old! What a transformative and beautiful year this has been. From starting the podcast to quitting my job and relocating to SLC to chase all these wild ideas and big dreams! I truly cannot wait to see what we can make of 2020. What will 2020 bring for you? I hope that this is the year you will fully celebrate your wildest self. That you will catch the wind and not look back. That you'll find the spark you've been looking for and with it, light the brightest flame to guide your new path. And I hope that it makes you happy and fills you with satisfaction and joy. Another short episode to celebrate what was of 2019 and will be in 2020. To your wildest self, be true.

For climbers, hikers and nature lovers alike, Yosemite Valley has a vastness that is hard to match. For those like Josie, who are compelled to push the limits of vertical adventure, it’s the center of the universe. Josie pushes her vertical life even further (a hallmark of her character) as a climbing coach, mentor and for many years prior to our meeting; serving on the Valley SAR team of YOSAR (Yosemite Valley Search and Rescue). During a visit to the YOSAR camp (details in the episode) I learned just how much respect and admiration her follow SAR crew members have for her and the time she spent with them. Later, when I mentioned this to Josie, she smiled, nervously looked down toward the ground and with a “well, thanks but…” she quickly deflected the compliments back to all the YOSAR crews past and present. I had met Josie earlier in the year, at the She Moves Mountains event in March. I knew her by reputation and had hoped to have a chance to discuss chatting on the pod. However, the hectic schedule didn’t allow for such a conversation to take place, and I figured I’d reach out later on. As luck would have it, we crossed paths at Outdoor Retailer in Boulder and, a couple few months later, were posted up in Savannah the Van for a chat. As I prepped the recording gear we chatted about the topics we wanted to cover and, in so doing, realized that we were meeting in an interesting place and time. Many milestones of life occurred in this very place, in the same month, over the years. I suppose life has a way of happening like that. These wild spaces we visit to find pieces of ourselves, to reconnect with them, to build them, to find inspiration; are the same places we continue to visit as we fill the pages of our stories. To your wildest self, be true.

A short episode, just me and a mic (with some backing music), to offer up a big serving of gratitude and a bit of the story behind the podcast.

Red Rock Canyon National Conservation area provided the perfect back drop for the weekend’s vertical adventures and podcast recording session. Situated halfway between San Diego and Salt Lake City, it would be equal distance for all those hitting the road on the Wilder Mind side of the crew while Anna and boyfriend Mike Coyle were already posted up at the campsite on the tail end of their 9-day working/climbing trip. After coffee and a bite to eat we made our way toward the popular “Panty Wall” to enjoy some fair weather desert sport climbing. Conditions were just right with plenty of blue skies and sunshine to go around, but relatively mild temperatures. Thankfully everyone had a chance to get some time on the rock before the midday sun pushed us further into the canyon seeking a bit of shade. As luck would have it, our friends Joey and Camille were also out climbing and found their way to our campsite for some evening celebrations. Big stories, big laughs and even bigger smiles as friends gathered under the starlit desert sky. At some point, after some wine for Anna and some beers for me, we decided that we were primed to record the best podcast ever! We may have been slightly off the mark with that belief but we sure did have a great time recording! One standout clip, from the beginning of our evening conversation, did find its way into the final cut. The next morning the crew was ready to rack up for some crack climbing before recording the podcast. Climbing rocks with friends amongst the splendor of nature is such a great reminder of the abundance of beauty in this world and this life. After (re)recording the podcast from the crag parking lot, this time with greater success, we made our way into Summerlin for a late lunch before all heading our separate ways. As I rolled through the miles back to Salt Lake City I was feeling weighed down with the fact that I wouldn’t see the familiar faces of my San Diego crew for quite some time. I was confident in my choice to relocate my home base but was feeling a slight hint of loneliness. A couple hours into the drive I stopped alongside a quiet stretch of highway to brew some coffee to get through the night and make it back in a single push. My phone buzzed and the message read “Are you back in Salt Lake yet? We’re all meeting for dinner and drink’s if you can make it”. Another adventure in the books and an entirely new chapter ahead. I continued on into the night, my heart full from everything behind and growing with everything ahead.

Mammoth Lakes is one of my favorite towns to visit. The area is an outdoor enthusiasts dream with easy access to endless ranges, stellar rock climbing, amazing snow sports and a variety of waterways for shooting fly line. Beyond that, exists a remarkable crew of positive and go-hard humans that are committed to living a life of meaning and adventure that constantly inspires me to pursue the same. In that crew is a human that is small in frame, but huge in heart. Tammy Faye is a local hard woman known for her incredible love and skills in mountain endurance and rock climbing. When she’s not working at the Mammoth Tavern, putting herself through night courses in nursing school or raising her 3-fur kids with husband Tucker, she can be found outside on any number of mountain dispatches. ~~~ Tammy grew up in the Inland Empire city of Riverside, some 55 miles east of the downtown Los Angeles. She developed her connectedness to the outside world early, as a young cross country runner. This love for the outdoors, combined with her desire to continually push the edge of her physical and mental strength, led her to snowboarding the tree lined runs of the proud stratovolcano of Wy’East (Mt. Hood) in Oregon’s Cascade Volcanic Arc. Following that, she ventured towards the Sierra Nevada Mountains for a 1-year stint in the then burgeoning town of Mammoth Lakes. 10 years later, she’s become quite the local hard woman crushing mountain dispatches and brewing up one mean cup of coffee from her kitchen with the exact Mountain View you’d expect from this always evolving athlete. ~~~ As I sipped my morning coffee and slowly rolled my trusty old Savannah The Vannah (GMC Savana - aka rolling studio/sometimes #vanlife rig/one mean driving machine) down the dirt road toward the parking lot of the Payahüünadü (aka The Tablelands, aka Happy Boulders aka The Happies) I noticed a dust storm behind me in the distance. As the cavalry neared, I saw two familiar SUVS. I knew some of the best humans and doggos were filling those seats! I laughed, nodded my head and raised my coffee mug as they passed with honking horns, big smiles and waving arms. Some 5-minutes later I was full of laughter to be greeted by a dancing Tammy, Leah and Madison and a rambunctious crew of 5 of the best pups around! The day that followed was nothing short of picture perfect. We were later joined by our friends April, Eric, Forrest and Robbie. All of us friends, some old, some new, spending a calm Tuesday laughing, snacking and climbing our way trough the day. These humans, days and adventures are each a little mini story that I love to retell, to relive and write anew every chance I get. I truly hope you’ll enjoy the conversation that followed. It’s been an absolutely delight to build a friendship with Tammy and learn and grow alongside her. She’s one of a kind, and I can’t wait for you to hear from her. As always, my friends, to your wildest self, be true.

Brett grew up in NY, about as far from Oregon as one can get in the contiguous US. Self described as an average runner, it wasn’t necessarily the activity itself that served as the impetus for Territory, rather his sense of community and creating a space for everyone to enjoy moving through nature. After college he dedicated a solid year to gaining a better understanding of the world at large. Through his travels abroad, relying on himself and taking in the lifestyle of those far removed from his own raising, he began to cultivate a reality void of a 9-5 and centered around people and purpose. Returning to the states he knew that he had to create a company and product focused on the trail running community. Raised to stay the course, the world of becoming an entrepreneur was not one he was accustomed to, but he was obliged to launch into it and find a way to make it work. I can’t wait for you to (finally) hear the conversation with Brett. Running is a funny thing - it’s so basic and simple, yet it means so much to so many of us. I’m thankful for humans like Brett, dedicated to creating a space for those of us who just love to romp around involved in human powered adventures through nature like we belong there. Because we do. We are all “runners of the wild”. As always, my friends; to your wildest self, be true.

Rj’s life has not been one guided by script. She lives in constant growth, attuned to the vibrations of the spaces around her. She trusts her instincts and inner dialogue. She leans on the community she continues to develop in the climbing world throughout the highs and lows of life. She gives back to that community by building her skills to allow her the opportunities to help others find a better sense of self and community. You’ll hear Rj talk about life on the road in her Toyota Highlander. The freedoms found where the rubber meets the road do not come without their fair share of challenges and discomforts but that doesn’t hold her back. A year into her nomadic journey, she refuses to say that she’s homeless. These aren’t just words for Rj. It was quick to see that, no matter where she is, with her community surrounding her, she’s at home. While we were out climbing, I’d glance over from time to time to find her perched on a sunlit stone just out of frame. She always found a spot with a vantage point of the climb and the land that stretched down toward Lake Haiyaha and beyond. Deep in some state of calm appreciation, I thought best to just let her be. We all need those spaces and moments to rejuvenate ourselves. It was clear that Rj was in hers.

In the first LIVE Wilder Mind Podcast, we sit down with Isamer Bilog to discuss his near-fatal climbing accident. Join us in the Living Room of Arc'Teryx La Brea for a powerful and emotional conversation about the accident, the risks we choose to take and the impact our actions have on those around us.

Leslie Kim is a Southern California native with the heart of a warrior. Whether she’s digging deep within herself to cultivate a new challenge with an unknown path or finding herself navigating imposing terrain in a sea of granite, she’s doing it with fight like you won’t believe. As an actual fighter and student of martial arts, Leslie displays a deep fascination in finding a way to navigate this world through her senses and movements. These days, such movements include the colors, shapes and feelings of her artwork. As the designer and creator behind Dynamite Starfish, she’s working hard to bring awareness to our climbing journeys in a lighthearted and mindful format. She strives to find a means through both her business and personal interactions to create a space for individuals to be free to be themselves and approach life, the outdoors and climbing in a liberated way.

Jillian Yatsko is a change maker of the highest regard; Founder and President of the Hazel Foundation for Athletics, Founder of the Adaptive and Innovative Climbing Programs at Mesa Rim Climbing and Fitness Center, Course Instructor for Paradox sports and member of the USA Climbing Team. Through all of this, Jillian works through her own challenges with multiple sclerosis but refuses to affix the word “victim” to herself or others in her scene. A true example that tough times don't last but tough folks do. Born and raised in the northeast, at the base of the Appalachian mountains, she’s been an athlete from the beginning. Involving herself in classical dance, downhill skiing and rock climbing as both passionate dispatches and outlets for her vast stores of energy. As Jillian and I sat at Pure Brewing, drinking too many beers and sharing too many stories not fit for the podcast tapes, it could have easily appeared that the two of us were in competition to see who could attempt to frantically wave their arms and leap from their seat more times than the other! When Jillian and I met to record the podcast, she had just finished a full day at Mesa Rim in Mission Valley. In fact, moments before i walked in the door, she just wrapped up her coaching responsibilities with the adaptive climbing team. I assumed she’d be tired and perhaps low on energy. Maybe we’d need an evening coffee fix. Nope. No sooner had we said our hello’s and exchanged a big hug than we were bounding up the stairs towards the conference room. I have no doubt you’ll love getting to know Jillian in her words and on her terms. Through her sharp wit, trademark laugh and zest for life you’ll find a courageous human that people want to follow and learn from. You’ll hear how some dark times throughout her life have given her a rather pragmatic approach in how she handles the pain. This approach, this practical conceptualization of disabilities, has lead her here to the forefront of the adaptive and innovate athletics world. She lives how she coaches - when you step into your athletic space, you throw all the life shit away. You’re an athlete. You’re not a disabled athlete. You’re an athlete.

Ruthanne Zouboukos, empowered elopements photographer, lives as boldly as she speaks.  A Truckee native that will be proud to call this gem of a mountain town home for many years to come.  It’s from this idyllic post, nestled by the support of her husband Dimitri, dog Scout and close friends and family, that she digs deep to find her truest potential. Today that means empowering couples to dedicate their lives together in intimate settings, opening dialogue for women to network in personal and business environments and developing new ways to advocate for sustainable practices in the elopement/wedding industries.  Tomorrow it could mean something entirely new.  Truly, there’s no stopping Ruthanne from pursuing her wildest ideas and bringing them to fruition. At just 23 years old her presence is already something you’d expect from someone much older in calendar years. In fact, just a month after our recording, she’s already grown her world in ways that render some of the podcast info “old news”. She’s hard to keep pace with, that’s for sure. I can’t wait to see what she’ll accomplish in the years to come. Mayor Zouboukos?

I met with Lizzy in the small yet bustling town of Bend, Oregon. Her and the incredible team of She Moves Mountains (Jenny Abegg, Katie Paulson, Jessica Olson, Sarah Regan, Josie McKee and Tori Lesh) were leading the Opening Weekend Celebration of their rock climbing clinics in Smith Rock State Park. This legendary area, generally considered the birthplace of modern American sport climbing, is an idyllic locale for a burgeoning rock guide group like SMM. Some final morning conversations were coming to a close as I arrived to the Bunk+Brew. I fired up a chat with Sarah as our breath visibly twirled in the cold morning air. A handful of moments later her, Jules Jimreivat, Hannah Gaddini and I piled into Lizzy's van on our way to Smith Rock. Here, during the 2nd day of the Opening Weekend Celebration; I had great pleasure of witnessing this incredible educational space for women that Lizzy has created. That her team has built with her. That means so much for so many. Lizzy’s journey here has not been mapped out in the traditional since. Nor has it been marked with straight lines and predetermined destinations. Wandering through the outdoors lead to summit bids and technical climbing, which lead to traveling the world and living out of her van in search of the best rock climbing destinations she could find. Lizzy defies definition. She challenges the status quo. She moves mountains.Lizzy recognized an underrepresentation of women guides in the rock climbing world and determined, through various ups and downs, that she would answer the call. She would raise the flag and lead the charge. She would find others to join the cause; to make the flag, help raise it with her, help keep it high when her arms became tired. Wonderfully self aware with an infectious exuberance for life and an incredible emotional intelligence - I hope that Lizzy and her story will move you the way that it has me. I hope you’ll hear how honesty, compassion and boldness can make even the most daunting of tasks worth every ounce of energy, when the motives are pure. As always, my friends, to your wildest self, be true.

Episode 5 - Brad Gobright These days Brad has earned himself a sizable following and some solid sponsors that help support his passion for climbing. Yet, at 30 years old, he is quite aware that life will always present new challenges and new choices. The conversation extends beyond climbing towards the future, what that looks like, how it feels right now to be considering a future not fully focused on climbing and, even if just for a brief moment - what that future may look like when AI takes over. Brad is a heck of a genuine guy and our day was spent in both serious conversation, light hearted jokes and some that perhaps took on a different shade. Through it all, I have to say, there wasn’t a single moment that he ever made a joke at the expense of another. He has a heart of gold and truly wants the best for everyone. He’s worked his ass off to find happiness and I get the sense that, part of his mission, is to help others find the same. And, specifically to all you climbers out there. Here’s some Brad-beta. Try and find an Office quote that he doesn’t know; it won’t be easy. To your wildest self, be true.

Growing up in Texas, far from the world of life on the road, Abbi never envisioned or set out towards the huge wave to come. Rather, she identified a series of small goals that would allow her and Cal to enjoy the spaces they love and the adventures that bring them closer to themselves and each other. A self described homebody, it seems only natural that she’d take the adage of home is where the heart is (for her, husband Cal and pup Charlie) one step further and literally tow her home along for the first round of life on the road. Years and iterations later, her world and “home” have gown to levels that she could have never imagined. All because this beacon of a human had a wild idea that sparked into an amazing journey that is, without question, limitless. Genuine, hilarious and heartwarming - I hope that Abbi and her story will motivate and inspire you the way that it has me. I hope that you’ll find something that ignites your desire to chase your dreams. To your wildest self, be true.

Having gown up in a rather conservative family, it was not the natural path for Annie to move to California and pursue life in LA. Likewise, it was a big stretch for her to share so publicly the stories of her first lingerie sale, her vibrator, her dating life and beyond. But that’s exactly what she’s done and in so doing, has led to her own awakening, her own bravery and a true passion for sharing the stories of others. Her hope is that you will be inspired by these stories. Inspired to live a life that creates a beautiful tale; whatever it may be. No expectations, no limits and no antiquated ideals of what all of that should look like. Just your life. Beautiful and messy. Just live it.

Samuel Crossley and I sit down outside of Camp 4 in Yosemite Valley to discuss his life and career as a filmmaker, photographer and climber. At the time, just a few short months ago, Samuel was fresh off the media tour of the film Free Solo. I'm so honored to share the words of this incredibly impressive young man; his life behind the lens, on the rock and his experience as a gay man.

In the first episode of the Wilder Mind Podcast, I sit down with climber Jordan Cannon just before his big push up "Golden Gate", a 3,000' rock climb up the SW Face of El Capitan in Yosemite Valley.