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The highlight of today's show will be our in-depth interview with Lake Tahoe's Local Legend, Chris McNamara. "Chris Mac" is a name synonymous with adventure and extreme sports. An El Capitan-addicted big wall climber, ex-wingsuit BASE jumper, author of ten books, and co-founder of several notable platforms including SuperTopo, OutdoorGearLab, and Ski Run Presents, McNamara's accolades are extensive. He is also a TAMBA Hall of Famer, solidifying his status as a key figure in the outdoor adventure community. As the Editor-in-Chief and co-founder of the GearLab websites, Chris has carved out a niche as a go-to expert in the outdoor gear world. His expertise extends beyond gear, as he has spent a significant portion of his life scaling some of the most challenging rock faces in the world. Climbing Magazine once calculated that three percent of Chris's life has been spent on the face of Yosemite's El Capitan, a testament to his dedication and perhaps, as friends and family ponder, his sanity. Chris has climbed El Capitan over 70 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998, he completed the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that leaves many asking, "Why?" His prowess in aid climbing earned him a spot in Outside Magazine's list of “the world's finest aid climbers.” He is also the recipient of the American Alpine Club's prestigious Bates Award and the founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit organization that has replaced over 14,000 dangerous rock climbing anchor bolts. In addition to his climbing achievements, Chris is the founder and lead author of the rock climbing guidebook publisher SuperTopo and a graduate of UC Berkeley. Join us on this episode of Tahoe TAP as we dive deep into Chris McNamara's extraordinary life, his adventures, and his contributions to the climbing and outdoor community. It's an episode you won't want to miss!
Corey Buhay has made a life out of doing what she loves. That's not to say it's been easy.Known as the go-to reporter for all things drytooling ⛏️, Corey quickly built a career as a freelance journalist regularly contributing to Climbing
On todays episode we discuss why October is our favorite month. We review an article posted by (The Climbing Magazine). Elizabeth talks about her passion for the holidays, and Blake talks about why he does and does not like scary movies. Thank you for listening. --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/ournakedstory/support
Elite climber James Lucas shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - As a climber, James is incredibly accomplished and well-rounded, with impressive big wall sends that include freeing El Cap's Freerider in a day along with loads of other big wall sends in the valley including the FA of Final Frontier, a Grade V 13b in the Valley. And while James is perhaps most experienced and known for his work on big walls, he has pushed himself into other disciplines with the goal of sending V10 boulders and 5.14 sport, the former of which he has done, and the latter of which he is zeroing in on. Beyond climbing, James is a prolific writer and photographer. He served as Senior Associate Editor of Climbing Magazine for 30 issues and has contributed to countless other climbing outlets, from Rock and Ice to Outside Mag to the Alpinist. This guy has some of the absolute best stories from his dirtbag days living in his Saturn and the caves of Yosemite, climbing with some of the biggest names in our sport, and bringing curiosity and stoke to all that he takes on. - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:05:43 Training: 0:09:59 Nutrition: 0:21:36 Tactics: 0:29:15 Mental Game: 0:42:15 Purpose: 0:53:26 Follow along on Instagram @james_lucas and @thestruggleclimbingshow. - The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow. - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount: Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level. - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!
This interview is a long time coming! Today, you will meet Tim Walther, the recent bestselling author of All In Adventure Stories. However, I first met Tim about 4 years ago when our friend, Rick Ivone, introduced us so that we could begin working together to write and publish this book. And now the book is done and available on Amazon (see the link below). In this conversation, we talk about the book and about the adventures Tim has had. He shares his desire to inspire people to add more adventure to their lives and his mission to give back to the people he's met and places he's visited. There are moments in this interview that are very emotional because when you live life to the fullest, you inevitably experience the highest of highs and lowest of lows. We talk about all of that....and much more! If you're someone who enjoys a good adventure story, then listen in. If you're someone who needs to add a little more adventure to your life, then you'll love this episode. If you are someone who is inspired by heartfelt, authentic, real life stories, then you're in for a treat. And if you'd like to purchase the book, you can get it at the link below. ------------------ Tim Walther is an expert in applied psychology, experiential learning, and team and leadership development. He is the owner and President of Grand Dynamics International which designs and delivers radically innovative corporate events and retreats using adventure as a medium to bring out the best in business leaders and teams. Tim has more than twenty five years of experience in designing and delivering thousands of national and global experiential training and development programs. Tim's work and adventures have been featured in 156 countries and in many publications and shows including The New York Times, Fox Sports News, Delta Sky Magazine, Outside Magazine, Powder Magazine, Climbing Magazine, Jackson Hole News and Guide, and The Voice of America. He resides in Jackson Hole, Wyoming and is an avid all-season adventure athlete with an eclectic background in skiing, alpine mountaineering, rock climbing, ultra-running, endurance swimming, freediving, white-water rafting and multi-sport adventures. Learn more about Tim Walther and Grand Dynamics: www.granddynamics.com For additional resources visit: www.allinadventurestories.com To purchase All In Adventure Stories, click here.
Elaina is an AMGA Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, and AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Provider Trainer as well as a Level 2 IRATA/SPRAT Rope Access Technician.She owns New River Mountain Guides and splits her time guiding in New River Gorge in summer and Red Rock Canyon in the rest of the year. She is currently a board member of the AMGA.Elaina was a mentor of mine on my way to becoming an AMGA SPI Provider. She loves teaching and is always calm and extremely patient. I first met her at one of the AMGA annual meeting and I embarrassed myself by acting like a teenage fan of a rock star . I couldn't believe how she kept her encouraging smile listening to all my twitter.I still acted like a fan when I interviewed her because she is just incredible - how she manages so many tasks is beyond me and I know she will be always one of my role models.Now let's hear Elaina's stories.Show Notes:Mentioned Articles and Videos:Almost there adventure podcast: Episode 19 Climbing with Elaina ArenzBasecamp A Climbing Magazine Podcast: the epic issue with Matt Samet, James Lucas, and Elaina ArenzSideline Attraction: Episode 20 Elaina ArenzLive of Adventures: #4 Elaina Arenz A Climbing lifeElaina's Links:FacebookInstagramNew River Mountain GuidesChapters:00:00:00 - 00:07:50 - Intro, how Elaina got into climbing and eventually did this epic road trip ending up staying in El Potrero Chico00:07:50 - 00:14:57 - El Potrero Chico days, owning and running businesses, developing routes, putting EPC on the climbing map, talking about the pros and cons of learning from and climbing with her significant other. Developed the love of finding new sport lines00:18:57 - 00:25:20 - from photos on Climbing Magazine to role models to work with role models and mentors. what early networking paved the road to later education and career00:25:20 - 00:42:35 - getting serious on guiding, taking AMGA courses/exams, finding rewards in guiding, and seeing AMGA evolved, forming a pack with Tracy Martin for quite a few AMGA courses and exams on the Rock Guide track00:42:35 - 00:48:10 - being a female in guiding industry. what are the challenges? changes seen in guiding and climbing communities.00:48:10 - 00:58:19 - support AMGA's mission, being on the board, push the scope of practice, advocate professionalism, involved in affinity programs00:58:19 - 01:11:08 - the reality of a guiding career, felt the need to diversify, started rope access work01:11:08 - end - Elaina's new hobby, short term adventure goals, how to find Elaina and closing thoughts
In this episode, Laurent and Matt speak with Chris McNamara. Chris is an expert in big wall climbing and describes himself as a recovering wingsuit BASE jumper. Climbing Magazine once pointed out that three percent of Chris's life had been spent on the face of El Cap - of which he has climbed over 70 times, he holds 9 big wall speed climbing records, and is a winner of the American Alpine Club's prestigious Bates Award. Chirs has written 10 books, and is the founder of SuperTopo and now the Editor-in-Chief of outdoorgearlab.com Along with other things we talk with Chris about his "too eventful BASE career" a climber's mindset, risk assessment, his intense BASE career, and when he finally felt like enough was enough. https://chrismcnamara.com/ Chris on Ammon Mcneely: https://watch.reelrocktour.com/the-sharp-end/videos/ammon-mcneely Chris essay from the Great Book of BASE: Why I Quit BASE jumping Great Book of BASE: BASE Book If you have been listening to Exit Point and enjoy what you've heard, we want to hear from you! lau@nextlevel.ws blank@nextlevel.ws ________________________________________ Exit Point is completely self-funded and there are no ads. Please consider donating to help cover our operational costs: https://www.buymeacoffee.com/exitpoint Thanks to everyone who has already supported us! Mark Stockwell is the man that makes this podcast sound the way it does. Please show him some love.
Cheyenne Smith is an entrepreneur and outdoor educator based out of Salt Lake City, UT. She is passionate about sustainable living and promoting outdoor education and exploration for underrepresented communities. She is also the founder of Alpenglow Coffee, a small business that provides sustainable and ethical single-serve coffee solutions, perfect for adventure. Cheyenne is an active member of the outdoor community and has been a part of several conservation and social justice initiatives. She is also a frequent contributor to various publications, including Climbing Magazine and The Coloradan. In her free time, she enjoys exploring the great outdoors, drinking coffee, and making art. Hear Chey's story in finding her own alignment by following her passions and deciding to impact the her corner of the world by standing up for equality. Connect with Chey: Website Instagram Alpenglow Coffee Co. Connect & Work w/ Isabelle Wellman: Sign up for the weekly newsletter 25 Days of Mindful Movement Personal Training/Coaching Call Instagram TikTok Website Apple Spotify Linktree - Onnit Supplements - Discount code = “Isabelle” for 10% off! Click here to try “Total Human” for free --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/isabellewellmanpodcast/support
Cheyenne Smith is an entrepreneur and outdoor educator based out of Salt Lake City, UT. She is passionate about sustainable living and promoting outdoor education and exploration for underrepresented communities. She is also the founder of Alpenglow Coffee, a small business that provides sustainable and ethical single-serve coffee solutions, perfect for adventure. Cheyenne is an active member of the outdoor community and has been a part of several conservation and social justice initiatives. She is also a frequent contributor to various publications, including Climbing Magazine and The Coloradan. In her free time, she enjoys exploring the great outdoors, drinking coffee, and making art. Hear Chey's story in finding her own alignment by following her passions and deciding to impact the her corner of the world by standing up for equality. Connect with Chey: Website Instagram Alpenglow Coffee Co. Connect & Work w/ Isabelle Wellman: Sign up for the weekly newsletter 25 Days of Mindful Movement Personal Training/Coaching Call Instagram TikTok Website Apple Spotify Linktree - Onnit Supplements - Discount code = “Isabelle” for 10% off! Click here to try “Total Human” for free --- Support this podcast: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/isabellewellmanpodcast/support
Josh and Tim use a recent article from Climbing Magazine to talk about modern climbing gyms. Josh goes into a few rants about how great climbing gyms have become and argues against getting stuck in nostalgia. Tim keeps it positive and adds insight as a competitive climber.Link to the article "Opinion: Modern Gyms are Failing Outdoor Climbers: https://www.climbing.com/places/opinion-modern-gyms-fail-outdoor-climbers/
Matt Samet is a climber of 35 years based in Boulder, Colorado, where he lives with his family in the plains east of town. He is the former editor of Climbing Magazine as well as the author of the Climbing Dictionary and the memoir Death Grip: A Climber's Escape from Benzo Madness. In this episode, John and Matt discuss: Growing up in Albuquerque How bouldering led to more sport climbing and beyond The sport of climbing and the unspoken push towards lightness How he got introduced to Benzodiazepines A voice inside asking “if this makes me feel this good now, I wonder if there will be a price to pay” What happens when you build a tolerance to Benzos Tapering off of Benzos with the help of a psychiatrist The medical professionals Matt came across during his time coming off of psych meds and how patient advocacy has improved the experience of taking and coming off of these types of medications How reading a ton about the reality of psych meds helped Matt understand his own experience more The universal threads of addiction recovery Coming in and out of climbing The importance of climbing with people who understand and empathize with Matt's journey Invisible chronic illness and the lack of understanding and empathy from the general public Internal wisdom being your best guide Laying the hard groundwork early This episode is sponsored by Bigger Life Adventures. Founders and owners, Carrie and Zach, created an amazing retreat company to help folks heal and recover, whether it's from addiction, trauma, or anything else that ails us. They have scholarships available because they believe that everyone should have access to these types of retreats. If you're interested in attending a retreat, use code NATUREUNTOLD for $50 off your purchase. Learn more here! Thank you, as always, for listening to this episode. Please follow along on the show's Instagram, our private Facebook group, or wherever you'd like.
Today on episode 36 I'm pleased to welcome climber, author, editor, father, and prolific first ascensionist Matt Samet. Recently, Matt was unexpectedly laid off from his position as editor of Climbing Magazine, a position he has held on and off for nearly two decades.The state of media, particularly print media, is something that has held my attention in recent years. Although I've considered reaching out to Matt for some time to discuss his career in writing and climbing journalism, this finally felt like the right moment.Join us as we take a deeper dive on media, journalism, balancing climbing and other life obligations, as well as some good-ole-fashioned musings on the modern climbing life. Topics Discussed with Matt SametMatt's unexpected layoffThe state of magazines and print mediaThe relationship of social media and athletes and the impact on print mediaMatt's choice to pursue writing as a careerDealing with nonconstructive feedbackHow to get involved with professional writing and tips for getting publishedMatt's battle with benzodiazepine addictionTactics for integrating climbing into a careerFinding time to be a prolific first ascensionistHow Matt might be climbing his hardest ever at age 50Matt's thoughts on what's next in his careerSo much more! Support this project: Buy Me a CoffeeSubscribe to the website: SUBSCRIBE ME!Show Notes and Links at Clippingchains.com
Katie Lamb is a 24-year-old boulderer out of the Bay area who has proven her abilities over and over with consistent sends of V14 boulders. Included in her resumé are The Swarm (V13/14) in Bishop, New Base Line (V14) in Magic Wood in Switzerland, Jade (V14) in Rocky Mountain National Park, Direct North (V14) in Bishop, and so many more. She's a Stanford graduate and works half time as a data scientist focused on clean energy, but her main priority is climbing. She's surprisingly not sponsored, and I asked her why that is and if she would be a full-time climber instead of working as a data scientist. I also asked Katie about what sets her apart from other climbers–what makes her sooo good at bouldering. She started climbing at a really young age just outside of Boston on a youth team that emphasized the importance of outdoor climbing. She's taken those values to heart and hasn't competed indoors for a long time, preferring to spend all of her time outside on hard projects. One of the reasons I asked Katie to be on the show is that I heard about her willingness to rest a lot when she's projecting. I really appreciated that coming from such a strong climber, as most super strong climbers I know do not rest more than 1 or 2 days at a time, ever. Katie tells us all about her mindset in climbing, her training program she just started (and whether it's helping her), and how she's prepping for her summer Rocklands trip. I really enjoyed talking with Katie, and I found myself mulling over some things she'd said for weeks after we talked. She's wise beyond her years and takes this sport very seriously – I hope you enjoy! Katie Lamb Interview Details How she developed as a climber Why she goes after aesthetic, historic lines Why she's not just a sponsored climber Why THINKING about climbing a lot helps her send Why she only climbed every 5 days while trying The Swarm Whether or not she'd be happy just climbing and not working How many is too many tries on a boulder – when she gives up What sets her apart from other climbers Her new strength program from Natasha Barnes Why she regressed on her project recently Show Links Instagram @ktlambies Climbing Magazine article about Katie Work on your nutrition with me Photo Credit Photo of Katie on The Penrose Step (V14) in Leavenworth, Washington by @keenantakahashi Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
In this episode, Max and Kyle speak with Josh Ourada. A climber who survived a harrowing 175ft fall while free soloing "The Nutcracker" in Yosemite Valley. His story has been covered in Climbing Magazine and talked about across the web, and for good reason. Beyond the miracle of his survival and the details of his accident, Max, Kyle, and Josh dive into the ethics behind free soloing, how media plays a role in our perception of risk, and what life is like on the other side of cheating death.Links:Outside Magazine:https://www.climbing.com/news/climber-survives-150-foot-free-solo-fall
The guest for today's episode is author and creative writer, Chris Kalman. A storyteller at heart, Chris's writing has landed him in the pages of Outside and Climbing Magazine with stories that make you think about both sides of the climbing coin—the good and the bad. He's also been featured on a number of audio productions too: Dirtbag Diaries, The Firn Line, and, of course, The Cutting Edge, where he plays host himself. Chris also co-authored the guidebook for Index, Washington and has authored two fictional climbing books that take the reader on a powerful emotional journey through the ups and downs of climbing. Chris has a particular fondness for the Cochamo Valley in South America. The pristine granite walls there have earned it the nickname “Yosemite Valley of South America.” Cochamo has gained more well-deserved exposure in climbing media due its pristine nature and world class landscape, but with more notoriety and exposure comes increased impacts. But impacts also present an opportunity to drive stewardship efforts and inspire the protection of a place. Chris and Peter use Cochamo as an international example of the nexus between tourism and conservation and get into what Chris has done to help proactively manage impacts in Cochamo, while also keeping it available for people to climb on its stunning granite walls. 6:36 - Intro to Chris 12:57 - Authoring the Index guidebook 14:46 - The best worst trad climbing in the U.S. 18:24 - Experience working for the National Park Service 26:46 - “It's Time to Rethink Climbing on Devils Tower” 40:53 - Chris as an author 47:03 - “Dammed if You Don't” 1:01:07 - “We Haven't Messed It Up Yet” 1:06:25 - Preservation vs. conservation 1:07:47 - Friends of Cochamo 1:14:47 - Where you can find some of Chris' other work Chris' website: http://www.chriskalman.com/ Chris' Instagram: @chriswritekalman The Best Worst Trad Climbing in the U.S.: https://www.outdoorresearch.com/blog/lumpy-ridge-the-best-worst-trad-climbing-in-the-united-states Devils Tower article: https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/climbing/why-its-time-rethink-climbing-ban-devils-tower/ NPS info on the Devils Tower closure: https://www.nps.gov/deto/planyourvisit/currentclimbingclosures.htm Climbers- Honor the June Closure at Devils Tower: https://www.accessfund.org/news-and-events/news/climbers-honor-the-june-closure-at-devils-tower Patagonia Cochamo article: https://www.patagonia.com/stories/coming-to-bat-for-cochamo/story-71772.html As Above, So Below: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/as-above-so-below Dammed If You Don't: http://www.chriskalman.com/books/uf64nh7hgb6gurd3mtkwkdagckky5a
It was the summer of 1996. At the time, I was 21 years old, living in a primitive cabin in the small fishing village of Ninilchik, Alaska. That summer, I'd landed a job working as a park ranger assistant for Alaska State Parks, and although I'd like to say I was doing something cool like building trails, the reality is that I was cleaning gnarly outhouses, packing up bags of garbage, and picking up fish guts off the beaches. Although I was far away from any climbing, I was often mesmerized by the Aleutian and Neacola Ranges, 50 miles across the water.So I was excited when I received a stash of beloved issues of Climbing Magazine in the mail. As I poured through each issue, I was stopped in my tracks when I stumbled onto a story about 2 climbers who'd just attempted the North Face of Mount Neacola, the highest mountain in the Neacola Range. The climbers, Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey, had spent 5 days attempting a route they dubbed the Medusa Face. The photos were inspiring, and terrifying to say the least: a near vertical dark wall bigger than The Nose on El Cap. Black rock laced with snow and ice, with no obvious crack systems to follow. A mixture of free, aid and ice climbing, while being pummeled by relentless wind, spindrift and bitter cold. This was wild stuff.Although the duo didn't reach the summit, it was an adventure that resonated with me, and captured my imagination. I never forgot about the Medusa Face on Mount Neacola.That's why I was intrigued 25 years later, when I heard about the trio of Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino, and Nick Aiello-Popeo, making the first complete ascent of the face. It was stunning to me to hear about a new generation of climbers returning to a climb that had filled me with so much intrigue and inspiration over the years. It also got me thinking about reaching out to Topher Donahue.Luckily I did get in touch with Topher, and we recently had an engaging conversation about his life in the mountains. We talked about a lot of things, including his attempt on Neacola. But like a lot of climbers I talk with, it turns out there was a lot more to Topher's life, than one trip to a remote Alaskan mountain in 1995.•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••NotesSpecial thanks to Topher DonahueCover Photo: Kennan HarveyProduced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan PhillipsSupport The Firn LinePatreonPayPalMerchSponsorsAlaska Rock GymThe Hoarding MarmotThe Sharp End Podcast
Matt Samet is the editor of Climbing Magazine, the author of several books, a prolific route developer, and a very strong and dedicated climber. He's also a friend of mine and someone I respect a lot, so I've been wanting to interview him for a while. He's a father of 3, works full-time, and just sent a 5.14 project a couple days before his 50th birthday, which is the same max grade he was sending 20 years ago. It's always inspiring to me to see people just make it work in climbing, even if they have a million things going on in their lives and are at an age many climbers believe to be limiting. Another notable thing about Samet is that he battled an addiction to benzodiazapenes and other psychiatric drugs for over a decade, and he still deals with neurological consequences of that. He's had to alter the way he trains and his expectations of himself, and yet he still gets out climbing and trains more often than most of us ever will. In this interview we talk about his dedication to route development, how his training has changed over the years, his stint with anorexia and how he's overcome it, among many other things. I hope you enjoy this interview as much as I did. Matt Samet Interview Details Why he loves route development so much How route development can be a thankless job (and why he doesn't care) Gender bias in route development How he's doing now since being off all drugs since 2006 Long-term nervous system effects from psychiatric drugs How he makes time for climbing while being a dad and working full-time How his wife deals with him wanting to climb all the time How having kids changes your relationship How age plays a role in his climbing at 50 His decades-long bout with anorexia How he's changed his eating and how that affected his climbing What he hopes to achieve going forward (he's not slowing down) Show Links Instagram @phorrizzler6514 His book about Benzos: Death Grip: A Climber's Escape from Benzo Madness The Crag Survival Handbook: The Unspoken Rules of Climbing The Climbing Dictionary: Mountaineering Slang, Terms, Neologisms & Lingo: An Illustrated Reference His article in Outside Magazine about benzo addiction: “Beauty in the Breakdown” Photo Credit Photo of Matt on Nephson (5.13+) at Hillbilly Rock in the Flatirons by Ryan Pecknold Please Review The Podcast on iTunes Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world.
Eating disorders and disordered eating are a real, but often hidden problem in the sport of climbing, and many of us unwittingly perpetuate the idea that less weight is better. In this episode, Caroline Wickes and I sit down to discuss her personal experiences with eating disorders, as well as the things she learned while researching for her Climbing Magazine article, Weighing In: Does Climbing Need an Eating Disorder Intervention? You can find the article at https://www.climbing.com/people/weighing-in-does-climbing-need-an-eating-disorder-intervention/ If you or a friend are looking for help with an eating disorder you can contact the NEDA Helpline at https://www.nationaleatingdisorders.org/help-support/contact-helpline The study from Lenae Joubert referenced in the episode can be found at https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/33345077/ You can find the documentary film LIGHT at https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=thtDQJGrO5s You can get tickets for the 2021 International Climbers Festival at https://www.climbersfestival.org/tickets You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast and get extra Board Meetings at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast We don't tweet. We scream like eagles.
John M. Climaco, Esq. (51) is the Chairman and CEO of CNS Pharmaceuticals, Inc. (Nasdaq:CNSP), a company developing treatments for brain and central nervous system cancers. Their Berubicin, is an exciting discovery for the treatment of Glioblastoma, which is the most aggressive type of brain cancer, which led to the death of Senator Ted Kennedy, President Elect Joe Biden's son and most recently Senator John McCain. Previously, Mr. Climaco held a number of Executive Leadership roles in a number of Medical, Biotech, Dental, Nuclear Imaging Executive Vice President of Perma-Fix Medical S.A, Director of Digirad Corporation, a leading manufacturer of cameras for nuclear imaging applications, Birner Dental Management Services, Inc., the largest manager of dental practices in Colorado, New Mexico and Arizona. President and Chief Executive Officer, as well as a member of the Board of Directors of Axial Biotech, Inc., a venture-backed molecular diagnostics company specializing in spine disorders, which he cofounded in 2003. He led Axial from inception through product development to international commercialization and created major strategic partnerships with international healthcare companies including Medtronic, Johnson & Johnson and Smith & Nephew. He holds a J.D. from the University of California Hasting College of the Law. In his spare time, Mr. Climaco is an avid alpinist, skier and adventurer. He has led climbing expeditions to Pakistan, Nepal, China, Peru, Svalbard and Alaska and contributed writings on the subject to anthologies including Epic: Stories of Survival From The World's Highest Peaks; Danger: Stories of Trouble and Survival; and 30 Years of Climbing: The Best Writing From Climbing Magazine. His writing and photography have also appeared in Men's Journal, Patagonia, Marlboro Adventure, Climbing Magazine, Rock and Ice, and The American Alpine Journal. Mr. Climaco was a recipient of a Shipton-Tilman Grant for Exploration in New Guinea and a host of the History Channel's Journey to the Center of the World: Caving in Guatemala. Mr. Climaco lives in Park City, Utah with his fiancée and two children.
Kathy Karlo is the host of the popular outdoor podcast, For The Love Of Climbing, where she focuses on exploring concepts of vulnerability, healing, and personal development by way of pushing oneself in the wild. She's also the Executive Director of the No Man's Land Film Festival and contributing writer to Climbing Magazine and Alpinist. In this episode, we, of course, get candid with Kathy and talk about how she developed her career and community by chasing authenticity and following joy to where she wanted to go. Tune into her podcast here Connect with Kathy on IG here Hosted by Jonathan Ronzio & Emily Holland
Katie Lambert is a professional climber based out of Bishop, California, where she and her husband, Ben Ditto, own and operate Bishop CoWork. Her résumé includes, but is not limited to, first ascents in Yosemite, the Eastern Sierra, and the Cirque of the Unclimbables. Lambert also helps run the Yosemite-based nonprofit Sacred Rok, an organization dedicated to getting at risk, incarcerated, and other marginalized youth throughout California’s Central Valley into nature. She was also recently featured on the cover of Climbing Magazine and Never Not Collective's most recent climbing film, Pretty Strong. *This episode was recorded on 6/28/20* Guest Info + Shout outs IG @katiebirdlambert Sacred Rok Bishop CoWork Eddie Bauer Athlete Sierra Mountain Guides Pretty Strong Film (click to rent movie!) Hosts + Shout outs Emilie Hernandez IG @em.hernandez IG @@texasladycrushers info@texasladycrushers.com Jeremy Arntz @sleepeatclimbrepeat @all_in_beta @beyondtherockpodcast beyondtherockpodcast@gmail.com
Learning to manage cravings can often be difficult, but necessary in order to live a healthy life. We are currently facing a world health pandemic and it has taught us that health is underrated. We need to take care of body every day in every way possible. In this episode, Dr. Elena Zinkov shares ways to get you on the path of a healthy lifestyle and ditch the cravings for harmful foods. Dr. Elena has been voted best naturopathic physician in Seattle, and she specializes in women's health, hormones and gut health using cutting edge treatments to optimize all aspects of health. Her work has been featured in magazines such as the Climbing Magazine, Mantra Wellness and she is the author of the bestseller, Crave Reset. Dr. Elena is a leading expert in the field of natural and functional medicine and she's had the privilege to work with over 5000 women through her clinic, retreats and online programs. She believes that the human potential can be harnessed through optimal health, and with the right foundation the body can excel and heal itself.
Sends and Suffers Podcast is a show about the ups and downs that come with every adventure and the adventure that daily life can bring to use. My goal on the show is to talk about the most recent or memorable adventure that you have had that was bitter and sweet. Programs Climbing Without Borders empowers at-risk youth and their communities in the Americas through rock climbing. www.climbingwithoutborders.org Escalando Fronteras empowers at-risk youth through climbing and education. Based in Monterrey, Mexico. (Translated in English, the name is "Climbing Borders".) www.escalandofronteras.org Books How to be Anti-Racist by Ibram X. Kendi Conquistadors of the Useless: From the Alps to Annapurna by Lionel Terray The Rise of Superman: Decoding the Science of Ultimate Human Performance Podcasts TrainingBeta's episode with a psychologist: https://www.trainingbeta.com/media/chris-heilman/ Climbing Destinations Parque La Huasteca, Mexico http://www.parquelahuasteca.com/ RockCamp in El Salto (camping, 1 room) Kika's Camping in El Salto (camping, cabins The Audubon - Arapaho Traverse (on Arapaho, Cheyenne, Ute Ancestral Territories) https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114960566/audubon-arapaho-traverse Le Grand Capucin, above Chamonix https://www.thecrag.com/climbing/france/alps/chamonix-area/area/945060183 Amazing People Woman with first 9a+ ascents… Josune Bereziartu. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Josune_Bereziartu 5th woman to send 9a… Mar Alvarez. I really wanted to highlight interviews with amazing women at this time, and translated her interview for Climbing Magazine. It's available in both English, Spanish versions here: https://tiffanyhensley.com/2016/04/19/athlete-interview-mar-alvarez/ Places Audubon - Arapaho Traverse (on Arapaho, Cheyenne, Ute Ancestral Territories) https://www.mountainproject.com/route/114960566/audubon-arapaho-traverse Long's Peak Tri. Fastest summit record 5h 45min minutes by Roger Briggs in 1991. https://www.dailycamera.com/2011/09/13/longs-peak-triathlon-an-unofficial-adventure-for-the-extreme/ Opportunities Apply for, or donate to, AMGA Scholarships, including LGBTQ, BiPOC, Women-Specific Courses: https://amga.com/tag/amga-scholarships/ Donate gear, funds or volunteer with CWB: https://climbingwithoutborders.org/donate-gear --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/sendsandsuffers/message Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/sendsandsuffers/support
About Neely Quinn and Alyssa Neill In this episode, I had a conversation with my friend and fellow nutrition practitioner, Alyssa Neill, about body image and disordered eating behaviors in climbers. We both have experienced negative body image and have worked with client on body image and disordered eating behaviors. We discuss candidly our own experiences with it all and provide tips on how to balance your diet to get all the nutrients you need while maintaining your optimal, healthy body composition. We talk about common behaviors we see in our clients that sabotage their performance and health goals, and how to improve those behaviors. And we provide mental/emotional tools to help deal with negative body image/body dysmorphia. This discussion was a very vulnerable one for me, and I discuss some personal things I’ve never talked about on the podcast before. Our hope with this episode was multifaceted: 1) we want to bring body image issues more into the open, 2) we want people to learn how to eat in order to avoid common emotional eating pitfalls, and 3) we want people to start re-thinking the “optimal body type” for climbers, and realize that extreme leanness is not the end all be all of climbing hard. It’s also incredibly important to be healthy and happy. Lastly, if you believe you have an eating disorder or are suffering with disordered eating behaviors, we encourage you to seek help. Whether that’s from a therapist, a nutritionist, a doctor, or all three, there are many resources out there for you. I did an interview with Kate Bennett, who is a therapist who specializes in eating disorders among athletes and she sees clients remotely. Alyssa is also currently taking clients remotely. Interview Details Our personal stories Common behaviors we see in clients Common signs and symptoms of disordered eating Mental/emotional tools that have helped me How limiting beliefs about your weight can affect climbing performance Our thoughts on “Intuitive Eating” How a balanced eating routine can help with emotional eating Dilemma of professional climbers How your hormones are affected by disordered eating About Me (Neely Quinn, ICNT) A little about me that you might not know… After completing my Bachelor’s degree in both Psychology and Zoology at the University of Wisconsin at Madison, I completed a 4-year holistic nutrition program called Seven Bowls School of Nutrition, Nourishment, and Healing. I graduated in 2007 as a Certified Integrative Clinical Nutrition Therapist. During my education, I learned about not only nutrition, but Western and Chinese herbs, homeopathy, the psychology of eating, and other alternative practices. I started practicing nutrition with private clients in 2007, and I’ve been working exclusively with climbers since 2015 to help them optimize their energy levels, body composition, climbing performance, and overall well-being. I was heavily involved in the Paleo nutrition community for a few years, and I was recruited to write The Complete Idiot’s Guide to Eating Paleo, which was published in 2012. I’ve led nutrition seminars online, taught at Bauman College (a certificate program for nutrition), and taught several community classes in person. I’ve been a panelist at several conferences and festivals, including the International Climbers’ Festival in 2017-2019, and PaleoFX. I’m also an instructor for the Performance Climbing Coach seminars with Steve Bechtel et al, and I travel around the country with them to teach people about nutrition for climbers. Outside of my nutrition life, I’m the owner of TrainingBeta.com and the host of The TrainingBeta Podcast. I live in Longmont, Colorado with my husband and co-founder of TrainingBeta, Seth, and our dog, Zala. I’ve been sport climbing for 20+ years and I’ve worked with my diet extensively to figure out proper fueling and recovery for optimal climbing performance–a lifelong pursuit. For more info about who I am as a climber and a person, check out my personal bio. About Alyssa Neill, RDN From Alyssa’s website… In addition to her Didactic Program & Nutrition Science degree from the University of Rhode Island, Alyssa completed her 1300 hour Dietetic Internship at the nation’s leading school for natural medicine and whole-food nutrition, Bastyr University, in Washington. She has over seven years of personal and professional experience with holistic nutrition, weight loss, fat loss, women’s health, hormone balance with diet, diet and lifestyle modifications, and supplement support. In addition to NourishMEnt Nutrition, she has worked as a Practitioner at Pharmaca Integrative Pharmacy, in the supplement industry, as a Private Chef, in hospitals, in Naturopathic clinics and as a Detoxification / Biotransformation researcher at High Tech Health International, Inc. She also hosts and teaches at Womxn’s Retreats, Womxn’s Circles & gatherings. She loves cooking and creating, and so she occasionally private chefs for retreats. She leads rituals, guided meditation, writes for Climbing Magazine and for Gnarly Nutrition. She is also a sport climber and a boulderer, and she works with climbers as well as all kinds of nutrition clients. For more info about Alyssa or to work with her as a client, visit her website at www.nourishmentnutrition.com. Links Warning signs and symptoms of Eating Disorders Climbing Magazine Article: Disordered Eating Poses a Danger to Climbers Dialectical Behavior Therapy: Check the Facts Worksheet Dialectical Behavior Therapy: Opposite Action Worksheet Dialectical Behavior Therapy: Radical Acceptance Worksheet RED-S resources: Podcast Interview with Marisa Michael, RD Mina Leslie-Wujastyk’s article about her experience Alyssa Neill Instagram: @nourishment_nutrition Website: www.nourishmentnutrition.com Summer Sale! 25% Off All Training Programs and eBooks Use code: summer at checkout for 25% off all training programs from July 15-July 21, 2020. At-Home Training Program ebook Finger Training Programs Injury Protocols All of our training programs NOT APPLICABLE for Remote Coaching with Matt Pincus or Sport Psychology Sessions with Dr. Chris.
Katie Lambert is an elite rock climber in just about every discipline of the sport. She is also a contributing author for Climbing Magazine, owns a business, and has a master’s in nutrition. We talked about the film Pretty Strong, her training and how she balances the many disciplines of climbing, and nutrition recommendations for climbers. Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes: http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/katie-lambert Nuggets: 2:15 – Pretty Strong 4:19 – ‘Father Time’ breakdown, blood blister, dropping the tape, and deciding to go into support mode 9:45 – “A big part of climbing is failing.” 10:49 – What Katie learned from climbing with Nina, and vice versa 13:16 – Deadlifting to fix low back pain, the Birdo challenge, pulling 235 lbs, and how deadlifting has helped her climbing 18:11 – Iron Dragons 19:17 – Pinch training and hangboarding 24:36 – Sunday Funday 25:08 – Training power for a trip to the Red, and bouldering circuits (inside & outside) 26:57 – Campusing exercises, the importance of focusing on speed when training power, and campusing endurance 28:24 – The routes Katie was training for at the time 29:26 – Being a multi-discipline athlete, and how Katie thinks about structuring her climbing/training year 32:42 – Why Katie prefers the free-in-a-day style of big wall climbing 34:25 – Linking up ’The Rostrum’ and ‘Astroman’, Katie’s “little suffer bunny”, and feeling fit from The Hulk 36:39 – Goals for future linkups and quick ascents and plans to go back to ‘Father Time’ 39:52 – Katie’s go-to climbing shoes 40:58 – “I know who I am and I know what I’m doing.” 44:10 – Why Katie recommends that newer climbers (less than 5 years) just climb a lot in a variety of styles instead of focusing on training 46:24 – How learning offwidth techniques has helped Katie with tufa climbing 48:07 – The one kind of training Katie wishes she had started doing earlier and would recommend for climbers 48:54 – Katie’s three go-to strength exercises, and fingerboarding for healthy fingers 50:59 – Past ankle and finger injuries, why Katie avoids climbing in the cold, and being clammy and cold 53:54 – Katie’s favorite Rhino Skin Solutions products and how she uses them 54:51 – Rehab ideas for elbow tendonitis and finger injuries, and why just taking time off isn’t necessarily the best rehab strategy 1:00:18 – What Katie wishes she knew when she was age 20 1:01:47 – Same question for age 30, noticing a trend of tendon injuries climbing in the cold, my own experience with a finger injury 1:03:38 – How dehydration plays a role in finger injuries, electrolytes, and Katie’s favorite hydration cocktail for cold days 1:04:19 – Masters in nutrition, Bishop Cowork, writing, and nutrition coaching 1:05:30 – Two key nutrition tips/takeaways for climbers, recommended intake of water per day (1/2 fluid ounce per lb of bodyweight minimum), and climbers as sugar burners 1:07:51 – How Katie eats in a day 1:10:10 – Eating red meat, why Katie is into local and sustainable food and why she feels so lucky being in Bishop, Polyphase Farm, and the challenges of feeding a growing population 1:13:52 – Some of the side effects of a crappy diet, why diet is important (even if you look fit), and some of Katie’s recommendations 1:17:29 – Katie’s recommendations for those that want to stick to a vegetarian or vegan diet 1:18:12 – Nuts, and why Katie recommends eating them raw/soaked, and why she recommends avoiding peanuts and processed nuts and nut butters 1:20:00 – Katie’s recommendation for daily protein intake (1 gram per lb of bodyweight—it’s ok to start with 75% of that) 1:22:54 – Writing, why Katie is stopping her column at Climbing Magazine, and working on a cookbook 1:24:24 – Founding and running Sacred Rok 1:26:50 – Being sick for 24 days, gratitude for health, and “it’s a man thing” (being pathetic when we get sick) 1:28:26 – Katie’s upcoming trip to the Red 1:29:09 – Melt Down 1:31:22 – Being a lifer, why Katie loves Bishop, and moving to France if Trump wins the election 1:33:20 – V11 as a goal 1:33:57 – “We’re really lucky to climb.”
Irene and I had met some time back at the summer outdoor retailer show where we quickly bonded over the copious amounts of free snacks and our high natural stoke levels. A friendship was sparked and, amongst our busy schedules, we finally found time months later to sit and record a podcast in Joshua Tree NP. Since then, we’ve filled restaurants and crags with our loud laughter, deep conversation and discovering ways to grow alongside and perhaps even at the helms of our communities. When we recorded, Irene had been in Joshua Tree for the inaugural All Women's Single Pitch Instructor course hosted by the AMGA. She had initially been invited to join as an attendee, but after careful considering of what she could gain from it vs. what an aspiring guide could, she decided to allow someone who would benefit from it take the spot. Her desire was still strong to take part, so she offered up her photography and rope access skills to capture this amazing event. Before I met Irene, I knew of her from a feature in Climbing Magazine (the famous portrait shot through the carabiner) and recall being so psyched to see another Asian-American outside at the helm of the exciting new wave of rock climbers. It was motivating and empowering to see someone that looked like me in the spaces and activities that I love and to now have this opportunity to share the ways that she elevates our communities and wild spaces is quite special to me. And to call her a friend and ally is something I’ll never take for granted. As humans we often wonder what sort of space we should occupy, what new skills we should attain to push further into our pursuits and if the scenes and activities that captivate our minds and souls will accept us. Irene has dedicated her work behind the lens to showcasing those of us who are not seen as often in certain spaces to help encourage positive interactions and inclusivity. It’s a journey of hope, of courage and bold self discovery. I hope her words encourage you to pursue that which exists in the depths of your soul with every ounce of energy and conviction you have. To fight for diversity and inclusion in the spaces and activities you love. And, on a personal note, I hope that she can help you see yourself in a more positive light, as she’s done for me. To your wildest self, be true.
The Climbing Magazine staff discuss climbing movies from the '90s through today. We talk about the Masters of Stone series, "bouldering porn," editor Matt Samet's own experience filming his segment in Front Range Freaks, and more. Plus, we play a game of Guess That Gram and debate whether or not Adam Ondra is having fun when he climbs 5.15d.
This week’s conversation is with Chris McNamara, a Big Wall Climber and ex-wingsuit BASE jumper.He is also the founder of OutdoorGearLab, one of the most popular outdoor gear review sites in the world.Outside Magazine has called Chris one of the world's finest climbers.Climbing Magazine once computed that three percent of Chris's life on earth had been spent on the face of El Capitan, an accomplishment that left friends and family pondering Chris's sanity.He has climbed El Capitan more than 80 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records.Chris has also authored five guidebooks to rock climbing in Yosemite National Park and eight other climbing guidebooks.As a wingsuit BASE jumper, he claimed a slice of the "Golden Age of Wingsuit BASE first descents" by finding and jumping 10-plus significant new exits in the United States and Baffin Island.This conversation is about meaning, it’s about creative expression, it’s about risk.------Please support our partners!We're able to keep growing and creating content for YOU because of their support. We believe in their mission and would appreciate you supporting them in return!!To take advantage of deals from our partners, head to https://www.findingmastery.net/partners where you'll find all discount links and codes mentioned in the podcast.
The Climbing Magazine staff discuss the first ascent of Too Tall to Fall (V10) on the 55-foot-tall Grandma Peabody Boulder in Bishop's Buttermilks. The problem, which was done by Canadian Miles Adamson, is the first line that's been bouldered on the bloc's slab face. The Climbing staff talk about the safety tactics employed by climbers like Adamson on such huge problems, and try to find the line that separates high balls from free solos. Also, another game of Guess That Gram.
Julie Ellison, freelance writer/photographer and former editor of Climbing Magazine talks about what it’s really like to live in a van as a solo female traveler. Julie has lived on the road for more than three years and dishes on the ins and outs of #vanlife including logistics, safety, and dating. Her latest project is a women’s climbing film from the Never Not Collective called Pretty Strong, which premieres January 2020.
The Climbing Magazine staff discuss three recent Nose ascents, Hazel Findlay's Magic Line redpoint, and Olympic updates, as well as Brag Gobright's tragic accident in El Potrero Chico. Plus, we share our recent achievements, and play a game of Guess That Gram.
Mark Synnott is a legendary climber, a phenomenal writer, and actually a former Climbing Magazine intern and contributing editor. Mark recounts his early days learning to climb in New Hampshire using a clothesline, his time dirtbagging in Yosemite, moving onto expedition climbing, and his life as a writer. Mark's latest book is The Impossible Climb: Alex Honnold, El Capitan, and the Climbing Life. It recounts Honnold's iconic El Cap free solo while weaving in stories from Mark's own life. The Impossible Climb is available now. This episode is presented by Mystery Ranch. Music by Small Houses. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
The Climbing Magazine staff discusses the recent border wall climbing competition in the Red River Gorge, Dave Graham's repeat of Hypnotized Minds (V16), and Molly Mitchell's ascent of China Doll (5.14). Plus, we share our recent sends, favorite gear, and play a game of Guess That Gram.
Unaweep Canyon is a climbing destination just south of Grand Junction, Colorado, with sweeping granite walls for miles. Yet, it doesn't get much traffic. Rob Pizem wrote a feature about Unaweep for the October/November issue of Climbing Magazine. We caught up with Rob to talk about Unaweep, the first ascent potential in the area, what it's like to be a climber in Grand Junction, his training, and what he's been up to lately. Presented by Mystery Ranch. Music by Small Houses. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
On Episode 184, I sit down with climber and photographer, Corey Rich. Corey came up as a dirtbag climber, but he simultaneously started a serious study of photography and how to use a camera. A fateful roadtrip put his images in front of the main climbing media outlets of the day like Climbing Magazine and … Continue reading "Episode 184: Corey Rich – The Story is the Thing"
I first heard about Steve House in 1995 - when I was living at my family's cabin on Alaska's Kenai Peninsula. I was 20 years old, working as a park rangers assistant. Besides work, there wasn't much to do that summer, but chop wood, go for mind-numbing afternoon runs, and fish murky waters for salmon. Unfortunately for me, the mountains were hours away. But one thing I looked forward to was my monthly subscription to Climbing Magazine. I cherished each magazine like a prized possession, and poured over each story again and again, dreaming of the far off ranges that captured my imagination.It was during this time that I read about Steve House's climb of Denali's Father and Sons Wall - completed in a light and fast alpine style that was coming more and more into vogue in the U.S. Soon after, I started hearing more about Steve's adventures in Alaska and beyond - and as the years passed, I watched him transform into one of the most accomplished, and visionary alpinists of our time.Steve's life and alpine climbing career were documented thoroughly in his excellent book, Beyond The Mountain. But in the last few years, House has become equally known for his work with Uphill Athlete. And that's how I got to connect with Steve last month, when we sat down to chat for an hour about his new book, Training For The Uphill Athlete, which he co-authored with Scott Johnston and Kilian Jornet.But before we got into the guts of the book, I wanted to take some time to talk about about Steve's early years as a budding alpinist in Slovenia - and how those experiences helped shape his career as an alpinist - and eventually his work with Uphill Athlete.Music by Evan PhillipsSupport the show at at PatreonLINKS:Steve HouseUphill AthleteThe Firn Line (Website)SPONSORS:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot
Thundercling: A Super Awesome Rock Climbing Explosion Thunderpod
Some folks sip life, swirling it around the palate, nodding contemplatively and slowly shuttering their eyes. Others punch a key through the bottom of the can and shotgun that shit while ropeless and reckless above a churning sea, howling to whichever gods they've buttonholed in their sights. I'll let you guess which type of fellow Dakota Walz is. Dakota, hailing from Denver via the plains of North Dakota, has steadily built a climbing resume that demands attention when it comes from a flatlander. This year alone, he's creeping up on a linear mile of first ascents from Utah to Colorado. This from a guy who launched his climbing career on the urban landscape of Fargo and Kansas City, actually penning a buildering guide to the latter. Most intriguingly, Dakota is on the precipice of releasing his first book (slated for October), Everything I Loved More. Compiled into seven distinct but loosely tethered vignettes, EILM chronicles his time as a steel tramp, a consequences be damned free-soloist, and hitchhiking vagabond. Underlying his tight and honest prose, Dakota makes clear that his reckless youthful adventures stemmed from a battle with mental illness and depression, a fight he continues to wage with a bit less mortal danger and a whole lot more wisdom. It's a furious and passionate read, and as Matt Samet writes in Climbing Magazine, "As an integral work of art, Everything I Loved More truly is a thing of beauty, and it was a pleasure to read, especially as the narrative circles back on itself to reach an emotionally satisfying conclusion." Dakota takes Fidi and I on a journey through some of the adventures so dazzlingly recounted in EILM, as well as the process of publishing his first book, his first ascents dotted across the American West, and the underlying emotional distress that fueled his wanderlust for so much of his young life. It's a helluva ride. Have a question, concern, pitch, or criticism? Drop us a line at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com. Toss us a DM on Instagram @thethundercling. We read and respond to every note we receive. Thank you, as always, to Ryne Doughty for the hawt jams!
Climbing editor Matt Samet and host Kevin Riley talk about the 2019 Photo Annual issue of Climbing Magazine, on newsstands now, and discuss Matt's recent Crusty Corner column about red tagging. Then we interview Levi Harrell about the highs and lows of being a pro photographer in such a crowded marketplace. We also discuss photo editing, equipment, social media, and provide some tips for the budding photographers out there. Levi also shares a story about a trad climbing ground fall he took while on assignment in China. Presented by Evolv. Music by Small Houses: http://smallhouses.band/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Three stories from the June/July 2019 Epic Survival Tales issue of Climbing Magazine. Editor Matt Samet shares the story of his biggest epic. James Lucas explains why he believes you should never bring your pet to the crag. And Kevin Riley talks to Elaina Arenz about the challenges of being a female mountain guide. Presented by Evolv. Music by Small Houses: http://smallhouses.band/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Thundercling: A Super Awesome Rock Climbing Explosion Thunderpod
Brendan Leonard has this incredible knack for making you feel like you could do just about anything you set your mind to, while simultaneously filling you with existential dread that you'll never realize your full potential. How can that be? Because fulfilling potential, doing incredible things, all of it -- it's hard as shit. And he's the most distilled reflection of gritty, gumption-seeping grinding I can conjure. Brendan's made a career out of setting his jaw and getting down to the work, week after week, year after year. In 2011, struggling to build a steady adventure writing career, he launched Semi-Rad.com, a celebration of outdoor life -- by, for, and about the average athlete and adventurer. All these years later, never missing a week without at least one entirely free and generally great essay, Semi-Rad retains a loyal fanbase. Brendan leveraged this success into a number of writing gigs, from Contributing Editor at Climbing Magazine to his first memoir to award winning filmmaker. He's currently a Contributing Editor at the Adventure Journal and columnist for Outside Magazine. He's written eight books with a ninth on the way. He's only 40-years-old, for god's sake... After witnessing and aiding in a rescue on Castleton Tower, Brendan took a break from climbing and decided, you know, to start ultrarunning. As one does. His most recent film, "How To Run 100 Miles," solidified his directorial chops with millions of views on YouTube and a Staff Pick selection on Vimeo. Just so you understand: He's writing full-time (books, essays, articles), directing short films, regularly logging 26-mile days, teaching writing workshops, and probably a dozen other things he's secretly fomenting in the raging creative torrent that serves as his brain. Sit down, pour a cup of coffee, and enjoy listening to one of the finest storytellers working today. And keep a pen and paper handy. Not only does Brendan offer some insight into making one's way as a creative in the outdoor industry, but he also drops a couple bushels of movie, podcast, book, and music recommendations along the way. Want to write for Thundercling? Have a recommendation, comment, or criticism? Shoot us an email at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com. We read and respond to every email. AND REMEMBER THE TEE SHIRT CONTEST! As always, thanks to Ryne Doughty for the sound nuggets in our brain parts!
TripleBlack.com Podcast - Your Entertainment Source for Extreme Sports
SEASON THREE: The Road to 2020 Olympics w John Burgman Podcast Host: Dan Goodwin As most everyone has heard, there will be three disciplines featured as a 'Combined Sport' in the 2020 Olympics in Tokyo, Japan. Those three disciplines include speed climbing, bouldering, and lead. Unfortunately, most people are confused as to the format and the process as of which the athletes will be chosen. Until I started digging deeper, I naively assumed every country would be represented, but as I quickly discovered, that isn’t necessarily the case. In fact, there is no guarantee that United States or any other major country will be represented. How can that be when we have so many climbers climbing at such a high level? That’s a really good question. Well, you are about to find out. With me, I have John Burgman with Climbing magazine, who has been reporting on the World Cup Competition scene for as long as I can remember. So, I couldn’t think of anyone better to help us understand the format and how the athletes will be chosen. TOPICS COVERED: 1) How will athletes be chosen? 2)How many opportunities will athletes have to qualify? 3) How many athletes will be allowed to compete? 4) How many athletes per country and genre? 5) Does an athlete have to compete in all three disciplines? 6)How will the scores be computed? 7) How many Gold Medals will be awarded? 8) Who will be representing the USA Climbing Team? 9) What are their strengths and weaknesses? 10) Who will most likely make to the Olympics? USA CLIMBING TEAM Men's: Zach Galla Nathaniel Coleman Sean Bailey Colin Duffy Drew Ruana Women's: Kyra Condie Brooke Raboutou Natalia Grossman Ashima Shiraishi Margo Hayes
Matt is the editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a published author, a husband, a father, and a pretty well-seasoned climber. And even though most of his life has not been easy, Matt has found his answers—beyond benzodiazepine addiction, beyond mental distress, beyond chasing dragons of treating it—to get down to the heart of the matter.
You may know Kolin Powick as the man behind Black Diamond's QC Lab articles, testing gear and confirming or dispelling myths. He's also the climbing category director for the brand. Kevin Corrigan sits down with Powick to talk gear and life behind-the-scenes at BD. Also, Kevin Riley and James Lucas discuss their favorite climbing gear, and preview the April/May 2019 gear issue of Climbing Magazine. Presented by Black Diamond. Music by Small Houses: http://smallhouses.band/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Thundercling: A Super Awesome Rock Climbing Explosion Thunderpod
Noted climber, writer, and cat whisperer, Matt Samet. Just another day in the Climbing offices for Kevin Corregan. Matt Samet is a sort of Renaissance Man. Top shelf climber and first-ascensionist, one of the best writers in the biz, Editor-in-Chief at Climbing Magazine, author, dad and husband, sweat pants aficionado, and cat lover. Seriously. He really likes cats. Kevin Corrigan jumped on board with Climbing Magazine around 2014, as Digital Editor, after sending a cold resume to Boulder while still living and working in New York City. He successfully penned pieces for the Onion and College Humor before discovering climbing and deciding that being dirty, unkempt, and always just a little bit weaker than that other dude at the gym was way better than hustling a living for the sit-com crowd. He's a masterful comedic mind and a passionate rock scrambler. Fidi and I sat down with these two thoughtful fellas at Matt's kitchen table, amongst a galaxy of his boys' toys and a 14-year-old dog, Clyde, who really needed to take a dump. Well, we got the interview. And good boy Clyde took a sizable grumpy in the back yard. Another successful Thundercling conversation! Now, we get into the weeds on this one, diving deep into the publishing industry. Can climbing magazines survive a reshuffling of the media power structure? What is it like to breathe life into each issue, from soup to nuts? What was behind the massive changes Climbing Magazine chugged through over the last decade? And, of course, which of Sharma's hairstyles spark the most joy in each of us? Have a question, suggestion, or article pitch? Wanna know who would win a slap-fight between Fidi and I? Drop us a line at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com. Thanks as always to Ryne Doughty for crushing the tunes! Thanks to you, too, for giving us a listen! We love you...
Noel Phillips discusses the growing popularity of climbing among women. Her article, “No Man’s Land: The Rise of Women in Climbing” was recently published in Climbing Magazine.
Will Anglin is the co-owner of Tension Climbing, and a dedicated climber with over a decade of coaching, training, and routesetting experience. He's climbed 5.14 sport routes and V13 boulder problems. James Lucas sits down with Anglin to talk about training. Also, Kevin Riley and Matt Samet discuss the February/March training issue of Climbing Magazine, which hits newsstands on January 15, and recent staff trip to Cayman Brac. Music by Small Houses: http://smallhouses.band/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
On Episode 166 of the Enormocast, fan-favorite James Lucas returns! The intervening years since James’ most recent previous show and first appearance on the Enormocast have sobered the pie-baking-dirtbag into a contributing member of society. Now in Boulder at Climbing Magazine and happily dating pro-climber Nina Williams, our former redpoint-soloist and reluctant spokes-person for the … Continue reading "Episode 166: James Lucas – A Recipe for Success."
Thundercling: A Super Awesome Rock Climbing Explosion Thunderpod
The top of Ariana after their first trip up the Diamond. "We didn’t send. Nina went back and fired it a week or so later. I did Turning Point the night after we talked," according to James. Episode one, touch down. On Thunderpod's inaugural episode, we speak with Nina Williams and James Lucas, Fidi and I in a living room in Denver, Nina and James sharing a couch in Boulder. It's pretty romantic. Nina and James charted entirely different trajectories through the climbing world. James lived out of a broke down Saturn wagon for about 200 years, cutting his teeth and putting up new routes in Yosemite. Nina came up through the comp scene but soon broke out on her own, ticking off some of the scariest, hardest highball boulder problems in the nation. But, as you'll hear, transition is the name of the game for this duo. James blew up the Saturn with a detonator and sixteen sticks of dynamite and slid behind the desk at Climbing Magazine. He has a toilet. He has a closet. He no longer must pee into a Gatorade bottle. And he's one of the most interesting and engaging climbing writers scribbling for coin. He's also allowed his rack to take a back seat to a crashpad, recently spending a ton of time honing his skills as a boulderer. Nina, hunting for something meaningful and sustaining, headed back to school. She also pumped the brakes on those sweat-inducing, leg-snapping, possibly career ending highballs in favor of allowing her intuition to guide her through the climbing universe. She's picking up a trad rack more often, becoming more intimate with the national climbing community, and basically blossoming into one of the most impressive and thoughtful ambassadors that our sport has. We talk about all that good stuff and more, including James's soloing fall (and it's aftermath) in Joshua Tree, a wee bit of politics, how James and Nina met, how the hell Nina manages her fear on highballs like Ambrosia out in Bishop, micro-penises, and a tiny toe dip into "Free Solo." As mentioned during the pod, here are some interviews with Nina and James from other podcasts. You should listen to them, too. Nina on Training Beta here and Basecamp here and The Enormocast here. James on The Enormocast here, here, and here. Finally, thank you to Ryne Doughty for the rad music! Check him out...or become a musical pariah...here! Notes: Originally recorded in early October, 2018. James, to my knowledge, has never fiddled around with dynamite.
Josh sits down with Climbing Magazine editor-in-chief Matt Samet. For decades Climbing Magazine has delivered some exceptionally captivating stories, reporting, reviews, and features keeping us entertained and connected with the climbing world but, have you ever wondered what goes on behind the scenes of all those captivating headlines? For current editor-in-chief Matt Samet, his introduction to climbing magazine was a mix of great timing and the drive to follow his true passion, climbing. Having continued building the Climbing Magazine reach and community, he was also fortunate to help build an online video series aimed at improving backpacking, climbing, skiing, and overall backcountry skills, aptly named AIM Adventure U. With the climbing community seeing a major boom in entry-level climbers, AIM Adventure U is perfect to help hone your skills as a climber but, what exactly when into rounding up each athlete and building the coursework? You'll have to tune in to find out!
We gathered semi-rad.com creator Brendan Leonard, adventure guide Rob Harsh and Climbing Magazine editor Matt Samet in the Airstream at The Studio Boulder for a discussion about resilience. Each guest read their personal writings and shared their story of coming through difficult periods in their life and coming through it with a deeper appreciation for climbing mountains.
With the amount of available information on training for climbing growing rapidly, it becomes increasingly harder to know what is worth keeping and what's trash. I've been considering this type of episode for some time, but when I read a recent article from Climbing Magazine, I knew I had to do it. Among many uninformed statements in the article is one that states "a good way to build power is to try difficult moves when you're already tired." Not only is this incorrect, but it's dangerous. I was all set to tear this article apart. Instead, I've decided to turn this into something positive, and make it a learning experience for all of us. Not everyone reading the article - or any article, post, book, whatever - can easily recognize which information is worth saving and what should be thrown out, so let's explore several ways that you can use common sense to recognize when to seek your information elsewhere. Don't Believe The Hype. We don't tweet. We scream like eagles. You can find us at www.powercompanyclimbing.com You can support the podcast at www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast
Chris Noble is one of the world’s leading adventure photographers. Also an accomplished author, his new book "Why We Climb" is a celebration of the aspects of the climbing life that are most universal, meaningful, and long-lasting. These include the strong connection to partners and nature, the physical and mental mastery of the sport, and the rewards of exploring oneself and the world through climbing. His work asks what compels men and women to dedicate their lives to the challenges and deprivations of living in a vertical world. Doug Robinson is an internationally-respected mountaineer, guide and backcountry skier. He is also known for his poetic writings about the mountains and why we climb them. Robinson has been called the "father of clean climbing" by Climbing Magazine and the “modern John Muir” for his lifelong devotion to California’s High Sierra. Having cut his teeth during Yosemite’s Golden Age, Doug has accomplished more during his climbing career than most could ever dream of.... and is a major feature in Noble's latest book "Why We Climb." In the fifth conversation of season one of Afterglow, Madigan, Noble and Robinson take a deep dive into a wide variety of climbing topics, most notably the philosophical motivations and renderings behind the pursuit. The trio talk at length about the power of partnerships, how adversity can be used to ultimate gain in everyday life, how climbers process the death of partners and ultimately "why we climb." Additionally, Chris speaks candidly about the conversations contained in his new book. Topics include his own personal journey behind the book and how the conversations provide a template for living a fully realized life. He also speaks to how lessons learned on cliff faces, frozen waterfalls and alpine peaks can be brought home and used to benefit society as a whole. Throughout the conversation Doug lends sage advice and insights from his 60+ year climbing career. Robinson quips, “We start by looking for handholds and we end up with higher consciousness." It's a powerful conversation that we hope you enjoy! Inspired by Chris and Doug? Satiate your appetite with more info below: Chris Noble: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/ChrisNoblePhotography Instagram: @noblefoto Website: http://www.chrisnoble.photography/ Doug Robinson: Website: http://movingoverstone.com/ Check out our sound engineer Luke Funicella on Soundcloud and enjoy more of his music here: @luke-anthony-funicella
We have all had bouts of darkness, despair and anxiety. In today’s world pharmaceutical companies tell us they can make it better with just one pill... But many people find themselves more lost, less happy and addicted to prescription drugs on a never ending psychiatric hamster wheel. So the question becomes, "Is what I’m feeling a mental disorder, or just a part of life?" This episode of The WASP is a powerful conversation that everyone should hear before they or a loved one starts the long road of treating mood disorders with prescription medication. Meet Matt Samet, rock climber, editor of Climbing Magazine, and author of his chilling memoir Death Grip, in it he shares how his introduction to Benzodiazepines, made him an addict, stole 12 years of his life and left him for dead- all while under the care of his doctors. You can reach David here: Twitter / Instagram @WeAreSuperman www.wearesuperman.com Notes and Mentions: Death Grip by Matt Samet http://a.co/byAcvxd Benzo Help https://www.psychmedaware.org/groups.html My boys at The Ghost Inside (Intro Music) www.theghostinside.com/ Superman Theme, by John Williams
Harley and Me: Embracing Risk On The Road To a More Authentic Life with Bernadette Murphy Bernadette Murphy’s book Harley and Me, is a hybrid narrative that combines memoir with research into neuroscience and biology, the book explores female risk-taking through the lens of her own experience of learning to ride a motorcycle at age 48 and makes a compelling case for how and why taking risks is a healthy part of an expansive life. Bernadette served as weekly book critic for the Los Angeles Times for six years and is currently an Associate Professor of Creative Writing for the MFA program at Antioch University Los Angeles, where she heads up the Creative Nonfiction genre. Her essays on literature and life have appeared in Salon, The New York Observer, Ms. Magazine, Climbing Magazine, The Los Angeles Times Magazine, Newsday, Literary Hub, San Francisco Chronicle, MUTHA, The Rumpus, The Nervous Breakdown and elsewhere. http://www.bernadette-murphy.comStrays: A Lost Cast, A Homeless Man and Their Journey Across America with Britt CollinsBritt Collins is a British journalist and writes for The Guardian, Sunday Times, the Independent, Harper’s Bazaar, Condé Nast Traveller, and is a contributing editor for Billionaire.com. She has volunteered at sanctuaries around the world, from tending big cats and baboons in Namibia to wild horses in Nevada, that have inspired features for The Guardian and the Sunday Times. While writing for the British tabloid, the Sunday People, she has raised hundreds of thousands of dollars for many international charities through her investigative animal-cruelty stories; as an activist, she has help shut down controversial breeders of laboratory animals. She lives with her cats in London. http://www.brittcollins.net
TripleBlack.com Podcast - Your Entertainment Source for Extreme Sports
ABOUT: Hazel Findlay is one of the boldest female rock climbers in the world today. Trad climbing at the age of seven on the limestone sea cliffs of Pembroke, it didn't take long for Hazel's talents to be revealed. For six straight years, she was the British junior champion. But at 16, Hazel decided to focus on outdoor climbing, specializing in trad and big wall climbing. In a relatively short period of time, Hazel established herself as a dominating force, free climbing El Capitán in Yosemite Valley, CA., three times on three different routes: Golden Gate 5.13a, PreMuir 5.13c/d, and Free Rider 5.13a - all 33 to 34 pitches respectively. Naturally, this has caught many people's attention. In 2013, Hazel was awarded Climbing Magazine's prestigious Golden Piton Award. Although I heard of Hazel Findlay many years before, hearing the whispers of a chic being as bold as any dude out there, she really didn't come onto my radar screen until 2011, when she, along Alex Honnold, captured the 2nd and 3rd ascent of an unrepeated route I had established back in 1983, in Quoddy Head State Park in Northern Maine. Route: Maniac 5.13c/d After that, I knew it was just a matter of time before our paths intersected. I hope you enjoy this week's Podcast. For more on Hazel Findlay, please visit http://www.tripleblack.com/hazel-findlay
Date: October 5th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Nathan Drolet We met Nathan Drolet in the Red River Gorge a couple years ago when his badass girlfriend, Natalie Hawley, was projecting 8 Ball while I was working on Snooker. We ran into them a lot over that season in the Red and in Chattanooga, where they now live. What I noticed about Nate is that he's a calm, collected, strong, solid climber. He was obviously dedicated to climbing, having moved to the Red to work at Miguel's so he could pursue it full time. He's climbed up to 5.14a and V11, and he won the 2011 24 Hours of Horseshoe Hell. And he's a really nice guy. When I asked you all a while back for suggestions for "everyday climbers" (ie not pros) whose training has paid off, several people suggested Nate, so of course I had to interview him to find out how he does it. What We Talked About How he stays strong living on the road How he uses breathing to create power and to relax How he trained back flagging His new interest in lifting and how it's changed his climbing Whether or not he runs and why Diet Mental training Training Programs for You Check out the Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!
Date: July 29th, 2015 Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. Holy cats. ==>> Get The Discount About Adam Macke Adam Macke (pronounced "Mackey") is a climbing trainer out of Chattanooga, TN. He works with people out of High Point Climbing and Fitness, which is a pretty new gym downtown. Adam has been personal training people since the early 2000's, and uses weight training and Muscle Activation Technique (MAT) to unlock climbers' potential. He's also a climber of 8 years himself. His methods with people in training for climbing are quite different than other trainers, so our conversation was pretty interesting and out of the box. To find out more about him, go to www.mackefit.com. What We Talked About How he differs from other climbing trainers What MAT is and how it's helped climbers Why fingerboarding isn't the best way to train finger strength And what to do instead Why campusing isn't the best way to gain power And what to do instead Links We Mentioned Adam Macke's website: mackefit.com High Point Climbing: HighPointClimbing.com Anvil Crash Pad Rental in Chattanooga: AnvilCrashPadRentals.com New Awesome resource for Route setters: TickTapeTighten.com Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Photo Credit Photo of Adam Macke by Corey Wentz at www.coreywentz.com. Thank you, Corey! Thanks for listening!
Climbing Magazine HUGE Sale! Climbing Magazine, one of the best media outlets for climbing news, training info, and climbing porn (let's be real here), is giving you, my dear listeners, a year subscription to the magazine for $10. Yes, only $10, which is 83% off the normal price. ==>> Get The Discount About Dr. Lisa Erikson Dr. Lisa Erikson is a chiropractor out of Boulder, CO with a specialization in Sports Chiropractic and Chiropractic Biomechanics of Posture. She works specifically with climbers, skiers, tennis players, and runners, among other athletes to fix them up when they have injuries and to teach them how to care for their injuries on their own. Dr. Lisa runs the medical for the USAClimbing Sport Climbing Championships, Speed Climbing Championships, and Bouldering Championships. Her new book, Climbing Injuries Solved, helps us learn how to prevent and manage injuries from climbing. An avid multisport athlete, Dr. Lisa competed in collegiate running, cycling, and nordic skiing. A trail runner, ultrarunner, climber, and nordic skier, Dr. Lisa is passionate about making sure athletes are not held back from doing the sports they love. She's got quite the long list of athletic accomplishments, as well as helpful resources on her website, www.lifesportchiro.com. What We Talked About How to recognize and treat finger injuries Self-care for finger, hand, forearm injuries The truth about ice, and why immersion baths are the best How often we should be doing self-care to stay injury-free When to know if you should go to a doctor Links We Mentioned Dr. Lisa Erikson's website: LifeSportChiro.com New book, Climbing Injuries Solved, at ClimbingInjuriesSolved.com Youtube videos at YouTube.com/LifeSportChiro Training Programs for You Check out the new Route Climbing Training Program for route climbers of all abilities. Our other training programs: Training Programs Page. Please Review The Podcast on iTunes! Link to the TrainingBeta Podcast on iTunes is HERE. Please give the podcast an honest review on iTunes here to help the show reach more curious climbers around the world ;) Thanks for listening!
Brendan Leonard is the creator of Semi-Rad.com and a contributing editor at Climbing Magazine, The Adventure Journal, and other outdoors publications. In August of 2011, after a break-up and economic downturn, Brendan hit the road in the search for answers. He lived out of a van and worked out of coffee shops all around the country three years and now lives in Denver, CO. His book, The New American Road-trip MixTape, is about this journey.