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Welcome to another empowering episode of the Female Guides Requested Podcast! This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we sit down with the incredibly inspiring Carol Simpson, a trailblazing climber and guide who is proving that age and societal expectations are meant to be challenged. Raised in the 1950s South where athleticism in women was heavily discouraged, Carol didn't embrace her inner athlete until her late 20s. But once she did, there was no looking back.At age 42, she found her life's true passion in rock climbing, a discovery she describes as a profound moment of empowerment. Following her newfound calling, Carol moved out West and founded First Ascent at Smith Rock, which became the first-ever women owned guide service in the U.S. Now at 80 years old, she is still climbing, lifting heavy, running a yoga practice, and even actively training to break the world record for dead hangs for women over 80!In this episode, we dive into Carol's rebellious journey of defying gender norms, pioneering spaces for women in the outdoors, the absolute necessity of strength training as we age, and why it's never too late to ignite your inner fire.Carol's Bio:Carol Simpson's journey is a testament to resilience, reinvention, and the relentless pursuit of passion. Raised in the 1950s South, she broke away from traditional expectations, leaving an early marriage to earn her degree and launch a successful commercial interior design firm in Washington, D.C. After embracing a fiercely athletic lifestyle in her 30s—eventually becoming an ACE-certifiedpersonal trainer and yoga instructor—she discovered rock climbing at age 42, igniting her life's true passion.Relocating to Bend, Oregon, in 1992, Carol pioneered new spaces for women in the outdoor industry. She founded First Ascent Climbing Services at Smith Rock, establishing the first female-owned, AMGA-accredited guide service. Long before it was an industry norm, she led all-female expeditionsacross the U.S. and created the weekly “Climb Like A Girl” group to help women discover personal empowerment on the wall. Her own climbing achievements are equally remarkable. Her proudest ascents at Smith Rock include sending Latin Lover (5.12a) at age 53, and becoming the first woman over 50—at age 60—to lead the notoriously difficult overhanging crack, Whartley's Revenge (5.11b). Now approaching 81, Carol still climbs three days a week, continuing to defy expectations and inspire climbers of all ages.Carol's Links:Email: csimpson1114@gmail.comInstagram: carolsimpsonclimbingQuotes:“The first climb I did, it changed my life entirely. It gave me a message of empowerment. I think that's the best word for it. Just ‘I can do this' and it's amazing.”“I was sort of corralled into what now has become the new thing, the trad wife. That's what you did. But I've always been the rebellious one, and I went against a lot of things I was raised to believe.”“So I went big time in the opposite direction. It's an inner fire. And I know that you know what I'm talking about. And the women listening to this know what that inner fire is because you have it.”“Today, women have muscles and it's considered beautiful, and it was not… I absolutely think the women with the muscles look the best. It's just beautiful.”“I still lift and I lift heavy. And that's a very important thing for women who are getting older, because the single best example of strength is your grip strength beyond any other.”“I'm working now on my dead hangs and I'm up to a minute and a half… The world record is 2 minutes and 1 second for a woman over 80. So, I'm going for it.”“Climbing was me competing against myself and it still is. And I will never think about competing against someone your age, but I'll sure compete with somebody who's in their 80s.”
Send us Fan MailMount Rainier is not the place where you get to switch your brain off and “just suffer.” The route moves, the glacier breathes, and a boot pack that looked safe two days ago can point straight at a crevasse. That's why Simon Kearns' new Mount Rainier round trip on-foot FKT, 3:43:50 car to car, stopped us in our tracks. Simon is an RMI Expeditions mountain guide and a rising name in mountain running and skyrunning, with speed records that include Mount Hood and a recent fastest time on Mailbox Peak. We talk through the real story behind the Rainier effort: a last-minute pivot away from a ski record attempt after snapping a race ski, the advantage and responsibility that comes with doing route work on the mountain, and how he stays sharp when the terrain demands both speed and precision. If you've ever wondered what “dialing a route” means on snow and ice, this conversation makes it concrete. We also get into how he trains around guiding logistics, why he works with Jackson Cole as a coach, and how he thinks about the balance between lonely FKT projects and the energy of racing. Along the way we swap notes on the Pacific Northwest volcano scene, European skyrunning culture in Chamonix, and what it looks like to pursue the AMGA and IFMGA guiding path while still chasing big athletic goals. If you like FKTs, alpine running, mountaineering strategy, and honest talk about risk, training, and motivation, hit play. Subscribe, share this with a mountain friend, and leave a review so more people can find the show.Follow Simon on IG - @simonkearns1Use code SteepStuff for 20% your cart on Sidas.usFollow James on IG - @jameslaurielloFollow the Steep Stuff Podcast on IG - @steepstuff_podFollow Sidas USA on IG - @sidas_usa
Executive Puls podcasts are originally seen and heard at AMGA.org.Periodically we present encore presentations
Show Notes:Resources for Candidates and Providers:Scenario overview video Scoring rubric + guidanceUpdated SPI Program HandbookNew textbook release (May 5): Rock Climbing: The Official AMGA Single Pitch ManualRelated Links:AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageEP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk ManagementEP 29 – Everything SPI 02 – Site Selection & Group ManagementEP 34 – Everything SPI 03 – Current SPI Eval SystemEP 38 – Everything SPI 04 – Teaching & Curriculum Design IAndrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, welcome back. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today in our fifth installment of the Everything SPI series, I am joined once again by Andrew Megas-Russell, the Climbing Instructor Program Manager of the AMGA, to break down the significant updates to the Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) exam that went into effect on January 1, 2026. The changes are designed to standardize and strengthen consistency across the country.We explore the transition to a more standardized exam format, specifically the new 35-minute technical drill for top-managed skills and the updated instructional assessment component. Andrew explains the rationale behind moving away from volunteer mock clients in favor of a peer-based instructional model. This shift aims to foster richer professional development and allow for more complex teaching topics.Additional topics in this episode include: Updated Résumé Requirements, Additional Resources and FAQs, and Tips for Success for SPI candidates.
With winter recreation and mountain town populations booming, more people are recreating in sensitive wildlife habitat. That raises a tricky question: when land managers decide to close a trail or restrict access, and what evidence do they use to make that call? Often, those decisions rely on research from studies done somewhere else, in different places with different conditions. And that can make it difficult for land managers and wildlife advocates to explain those decisions to the public. It also leads to some bigger questions. Is there such a thing as enough wildlife habitat? Is there such a thing as enough trails and outdoor access? What about “enough” trails or outdoor recreation access? And, how do we balance these sometimes-competing uses of public lands?SPEAKERS: Cal Waichler, Project Coordinator, Cascades Wolverine ProjectJoel Sisolak, Lands Planning and Recreation Manager, Washington Department of Fish & WildlifeTrevor Kostanich, AMGA-certified ski guide and authorModerator: Kurt Hellman, Wildlife-Recreation Coexistence Senior Coordinator, Conservation NorthwestRESOURCES:Cascades Wolverine ProjectCommunity Observations MapWolverineWatch.orgConservation Northwest"Your Stoke Won't Save Us"Wintering Wildlife Conservation Initiative Subscribe to Winter Wildlands AllianceWinter Wildlands Alliance Stash BlogWinter Wildlands Alliance Action CenterSUPPORTED BY: Outdoor Alliance, REI Co-op, The Mountaineers, Duct Tape Then Beer/Dirt Bag Diaries, High Country News, Phreem Family Brewers, and University of Washington's Pack Forest.CREDITS:Produced and co-hosted by Anneka Williams and Emily ScottEdited by Adam Titmuss Theme music by Rattlesnake Preachers feat. Kerry McClayAdditional Music by Blue Dot Sessions
With a string of high-profile guiding accidents making headlines this winter — including close to home here in Tahoe — Sam and Adrian sit down to dig into what it actually means to be a mountain guide, how guide companies are held accountable, and what you, as a consumer, should be looking for before you hire someone to take you into the mountains.Before diving in, Adrian shares a personal update: a fractured back sustained in a sport climbing fall at Starwall that has him sidelined for the spring. Ever the risk management thinker, he unpacks the decision-making lapse that led to the accident and what the takeaway actually is. Sam, freshly back from a family ski trip to Davos, also weighs in on a developing fraud story out of Nepal in which rescue companies are alleged to have poisoned clients with baking soda to trigger fraudulent helicopter rescues — and why the distinction between mountain guides and high-altitude workers matters enormously in that conversation.From there, Sam and Adrian turn to the main event: a wide-ranging conversation on guiding, certification, and accreditation.What Is a Mountain Guide?: Why the term is so contested in the US versus Europe, and why the semantics actually matter for clients trying to evaluate who they're hiring.Certification: How the AMGA certification and scope of practice system works, where Sam sits in that process, and why the gold standard is both certification and experience — not one without the other.Accreditation: What AMGA accreditation means for guide companies, why only 32 businesses in the US have achieved it, and why Adrian believes it should become the industry standard — not the exception.The Client's Role: Why the best guided experiences are partnerships, and why showing up as an active participant — not just a passenger — matters regardless of how qualified your guide is.Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.
Episode Intro: Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested podcast, welcome back, this is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. In today's episode, we sit down with Theresa Silveyra, a Portland-based mountain guide whose journey into the outdoors is as disciplined as it is inspiring.Originally a professional music teacher with a master's degree in piano performance, Theresa transitioned into the world of guiding after seeking a fresh start away from the burnout of academia. Today, she is a trailblazer in the Pacific Northwest, serving as one of only two female rescue leaders with Portland Mountain Rescue and working with elite guide services like Alpine Ascents. Join us as we discuss her incredible feat of climbing Mount Hood over 100 times, her work in creating the 'Color the Cascades' gear scholarship, and her powerful perspective on why every climber—regardless of their background—already belongs in the mountains.About Theresa:Theresa grew up in Southwest Washington with the Cascade volcanoes in her backyard, but it wasn't until after grad school that she began recreating outdoors and eventually fellin love with climbing. She had the incredible privilege of starting her guiding career in 2021 with the non-profit organization Climbers of Color, co-leading mountain and alpine rock leadership courses for BIPOC participants. In 2022, she stepped into the role of Assistant Mountaineering Director, helping lead CoC's program development through 2024. For the first few years, Theresa balanced guiding with her career as a music teacher. In 2023, she transitioned away from the classroom to become a full-time guide and dedicate herself to pursuing AMGA certification; she is currently an AMGA Apprentice Alpine and Rock Guide. Thesedays, she can be found guiding her favorite peak, Mount Hood, with Timberline Mountain Guides, or teaching ice climbing in Ouray with San Juan MountainGuides during the winter. She also joined the Alpine Ascents team in summer 2025. Outside of professional guiding, Theresa is a dedicated volunteer with Portland Mountain Rescue, serving as a RescueLeader, Training Committee co-chair, and Board Member. Since 2020, she has also directed Color the Cascades, ascholarship program providing mountaineering gear to women and genderqueer people of color in the Pacific Northwest.Links: Theresa's instagramColor the Cascades instagramPortland Mountain Rescue instagramTimberline Mountain Guides profileAlpine Ascents profileSan Juan Mountain Guides profileQuotes:Enter the climbing and mountaineering space knowing that you already belong and just not questioning that.I've always enjoyed just being invisible... but it's really important to be able to be that person that maybe I needed when I was first getting started.Everything's developed over time and making sure that I'm practicing and playing consistently over a long period of time to really make sure that I know something.The level of discipline required to sit down and get better at this craft... has really played out well for me in developing the technical skills I need in guiding.I just like being able to share something that brings me a lot of enjoyment and happiness and hoping that it does the same for somebody else.I decided that I needed to step into those traditional guiding spaces so that I could have a job... I was definitely nervous stepping into a space outside of my bubble.It was the first time in my adult life where I had no idea what I was going to do for work... I finally threw away the crutch.I feel like it's really valuable to have people from underrepresented communities in thosetraditional guiding spaces.
Top mountain guide certifications (like AMGA and IFMGA) have a pass rate of around 70%. But what if we told you that in the wine world, the most rigorous certifications have a pass rate that's only about 8% — and it's often lower than that.The certifications of ‘Master Sommelier' and ‘Master of Wine' are two of the most demanding in any field. And our guest today, Doug Frost, is one of only three people in the world to hold both.So Doug and Eli dig into what makes these courses so challenging; the differences between the two; and, most importantly, why they matter. We Want to Hear from You!Have a topic, craft category, or craft company you'd like to see us cover? Email us here to share those or any other thoughts you have about CRAFTED. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Dr Stephen Beeson is Founder of Practicing Excellence. Dr McDonough interviewed Dr Beeson in advance of an interview for his new podcast "Executive Pulse" for AMGA. This is the preliminary interview.
Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Welcome back. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today, we are joined by a true trailblazer, Norie Kizaki. Bornin a remote Japanese village where her family oversaw a Buddhist temple, Norie's path to the mountains was anything but traditional. After moving to the U.S. for graduate school and falling in love with the Rockies, she navigated therigorous AMGA certification process to become a mountain guide. In this episode, we dive into her transition from the corporate world to the outdoors, her experiences as an immigrant in a male-dominated industry, and the deeplypersonal choice she made to prioritize motherhood alongside her professionalaspirations. Let's welcome Norie Kizaki.Quotes:On her rural upbringing: “We didn't really have much of a mountaineering culture really when I was growing out… outdoor exercise was for rich people. It didn't really occur to me that people do that.”On her “American Dream”: “I started to dream about going to America… just growing up in this tiny little village I just wanted to see outside world and outside world it wasn't just Japan.”On her mentorship with Angela Hawse: “I met female guides including Angela Hawse and I was very inspired. I didn't know that profession existed and I didn't know that woman could do it.”On the difference between guiding and personal climbing: “If you wanted to be a really good talented rock climber, you should not become a guide… guiding is completely different from personal climbing.”On shifting priorities during her fertility journey: “I really did struggle with I really want to do this course… and I just decided that what? It's not really worth it. I need to stop this for now [to focus on becoming a mother].”On what she wants to be remembered for: “I think I want my grave to say caring mother even if it doesn't say I am a guide… that was it. And then I decided what if I wanted to say caring mother even if it doesn't say I am a guide.”On overcoming intimidation as an immigrant: “I realized I had to work much harder if I look different and if I speak differently… I didn't want to be a victim, I didn't want to be sorry for myself for looking different or being different or speaking differently.”On the “Mama Guilt”: “I always have to balance motherhood and guiding… it's always a balancing act and it never ever feels like it's balanced and it's never going to be balanced unfortunately.”About Norie:Originally from rural Japan, Norie moved to Colorado in 1996 for graduate school and has been guiding for more than 20 years. She completed her AMGA programs in 2021, marking several historic milestones: she is the first mother to complete the Mountain Guide Program, the first Japanese woman to achieve IFMGA status, and the first woman of color to become an AMGA/IFMGA guide.In recognition of her expertise, she was named the 2023 Guide of the Year by the American Mountain Guides Association. Based in Boulder, Colorado, Norie spends her winters ski guiding in Japan. She and her husband also sponsor the Kizaki-Wolf Scholarship through the American Institute for Avalanche Research & Education (AIARE) to support underrepresented populations in the outdoors.
Justin Sackett googled "hardest hike" in college and ended up on a 20,000-foot peak in Ecuador with zero mountaineering experience. That failure lit a fire that led him from complete beginner to professional guide to running his own guide company at 28—all while training single-mindedly for Everest without supplemental oxygen. This episode explores his rapid progression from sport climbing newcomer to alpine guide, the mentor who gave him the technical foundation most climbers take years to develop, and the Liberty Ridge storm where 60mph winds and inadequate gear taught him brutal lessons about weather forecasts and risk tolerance. We discuss the Rainier ice block incident that made several of his friends quit guiding, why he started his own company instead of working for established services, how he vets guides and avoids hiring crusty climbers, and what training for Everest without oxygen actually looks like when you're also running a business. [Name] opens up about the genetic lottery of altitude performance, why the West Ridge of Everest represents the ultimate objective in his mind, and how he's preparing mentally for both success and failure.Topics include: becoming a mountain guide, AMGA certifications, Liberty Ridge conditions, guide company management, hiring guides, crusty climber culture, Everest without oxygen training, altitude acclimatization, post-objective depression, risk tolerance at 8,000 meters, and balancing business ownership with personal climbing goals.Watch the full episode on Youtube#amgaguides #highaltitudeclimbing #mountaineering #alpinism---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout Their Ecotrek Trail Pants HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for an extra 15% OFF Your OrderHelp Support The Show & Unlock The Ad-Free PodcastResourcesBook Justin Sackett's Guide ServicesJustin's IG
Show Notes:Emilie is a an AMGA/IFMGA Mountain Guide but she likes lots of things that have nothing to do with mountains: cats, true crime podcasts, and books about early Arctic exploration to name a few. When she is guiding, she's a generalist and finds equal enjoyment on sunny rock climbs, steep ice, and snowy slopes. If she's not home in Salt Lake City, UT, she likes traveling the world….the more unusual the place, the better!Emilie's Links:http://www.emiliedrinkwater.comEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, welcome back. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today I am joined by a veteran of the guiding world, Emilie Drinkwater. With over 25 years of experience, Emilie's career has taken her from the rugged ice of the Adirondacks to pioneering leadership programs for women in Afghanistan. As an IFMGA-certified guide and a member of the AMGA instructor team, she brings a wealth of knowledge on what it means to make guiding a lifelong profession.In this episode, we dive into her transition from the Northeast to the West, the cultural complexities of guiding abroad, and a recent, harrowing health scare that changed her perspective on the risks we take in the mountains. Let's get into the conversation with Emilie Drinkwater.Quotes:On her start in guiding: “I literally begged my way into a job guiding people… Guiding's kind of my only marketable skill at this point. So luckily I like it and I have no plans of stopping anytime soon.”On being a female guide: “I love the title of your podcast because my whole career is like I have these opportunities because a female guide has been requested. And I'm often in a place where I'm… a bit of a rarity.”On the reality of the profession: “Guiding it's a good career for extroverted people, which I'm not. And so, yeah, any job, it's most of the time it's great, but there's definitely times where I'm tired or stressed or have a little feeling of burnout.”On the value of instruction: “I always learn from students… every single program I learned something new and I'm like, ‘Wow, I can't believe I've never seen or heard that before.'”On guiding in Afghanistan: “When we think of terrorists and Taliban… the majority of people in Afghanistan are just generous and kind and they're poor. They don't have money, it's a tough place to live.”On the guide's mindset during a health crisis: “As guides we are really used to being uncomfortable all the time… our tolerance level may be dangerously high. And that is something I've learned is I need to say something sooner if I'm not feeling good.”On finding the right partner: “A perfect partner is somebody who compliments you… somebody that you're on the same page with—they'll support you, but also you have a similar enough skill set.”On the definition of success: “Success begins with a willingness to try… because I think if you tried something you probably learned a lot from it… the success comes in trying and learning from each bit of it.”
Juliana Garcia started climbing the mountains of Ecuador at fifteen years old. Since then, she has climbed and guided many mountains and big walls throughout the Andes, Peru,Bolivia, Colombia, as well as in Pakistan, Alaska, United States and the Alps. She became the first female Latin American certified IFMGA mountain guide and served as the President of the Ecuadorian Association of guides for 6 years. She is currently one of the instructors of the Ecuadorian guiding school ESGUIM. Juliana is also a Patagonia Brand Ambassador and an AIARE Avalanche Education Instructor and POW ambassador. She served as “board member” at the IFMGA for six years and became the first female and non-European to occupy that position. Recently she was recognized by the IFMGA as an “honorary member”. Juliana got her “ski guide” diploma this spring 2025 in U.S by the AMGA. She became the first female Latin American to obtain this status as a full IFMGA. She is passionate aboutlearning and sharing.Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast,welcome back! I am your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. Today's guest is a true trailblazer in the international guiding community: Juliana Garcia. Juliana is an Ecuadorian mountain guide whose career is a series of "firsts". She was the first woman to pass the rigorous aspirant exams in the Bolivian system and became the first female IFMGA-certified guide in all of Latin America. Juliana's influence extends far beyond the technical terrain of the Andes. She served two terms as the president of the Ecuadorian Mountain Guides Association, where she was instrumental in bringing their national school up to international standards. She also shattered glass ceilings at the highest level of the profession as the first woman ever to sit on the board of the IFMGA. At the time of this interview, Juliana was based in Washington state and was in the final stages of a multi-year journey to become a certified ski guide—a discipline she picked upas an adult to bring high-level snow science and safety back to her home community in Ecuador. (And to no one's surprise, she passed!) Now, let's dive into Juliana's inspiring life journey—her transition from volcanoes to the Cascades, the power of mentorship, and why she believes the most important tool a guide can have is the ability to listen.Links:Her Place in the Mountains – Patagonia StoriesJuliana's Instagram page – julianagarciaguideQuotes:I'm just a person that loves to be outside, loves to be in the mountains. yeah, that's it, I think.When I became part of the board… I became the first female to sit at that board ever. That blew my mind. I was like, ‘You kidding me?I knew that that discipline exist… and I was like, what? I'm going to learn how to ski as an adult. I'm going to learn a lot of our snow science and I'm going to do it.I love sharing how people put themselves outside of their limits, sometimes and they do it and they found joy doing it. I love to be part of that journey of other people.I think we are really good on listening. I think we are really good on perceiving what is going on in our surroundings when we are guiding… and I think we're really good on not being ashamed to turn around.I don't care anymore. I don't need to prove anything to anybody… I realized… I was pushing myself for no reason… no one is going to pushing me… I'm doing my own path.What we can do to help is just to choose to be uncomfortable for a moment in our daily life… We need to choose in our daily life things that we can do that support the energy overall.
Dr. Paul DeChant is a thought leader on preventing burnout by fixing the workplace drivers of burnout, not simply helping workers become more resilient. Paul advises C-level healthcare executives on managing critical problems such as financial and staffing challenges by transforming management systems and cultures to reduce the root causes of clinician burnout. Done properly, client organizations improve KPI performance while reducing team member burnout. Following 25 years practicing family medicine, Dr. DeChant became CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation, where he led a transformation based on the theme of “Returning Joy to Patient Care.” After four years the group achieved recognition as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California two years in a row, while improving physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey. He received his MD from the Oregon Health Sciences University and his MBA from the University of Colorado-Denver. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.comThanks for tuning in! Check out more episodes of The Well-Being Connector at www.bethejoy.org/podcast.
Today I have the privilege to be sitting down with our previous guest Silas Rossi..Silas is an IFMGA Certified Mountain Guide and President of the AMGA organization. After Silas and I's last conversation in April, I've been jotting down a list of questions and reflections in preparation for our inevitable next conversation. So simply put, this conversation is a culmination of that list. We dive into a wide variety of topics; including nuanced gear questions surrounding rappelling, anchor building, fixed point belays, and clipping cams in sequence. We also explore more thoughtful questions like what it means to move away from fear and towards joy in our climbing. Or how we can balance learning through our own experience vs learning from the experie nce of others. We also get to hear about a guided trip early in Silas' career involving an epic with an older client in freezing whiteout conditions.As many of you already know, Silas is such a wealth of knowledge and wisdom and being able to sit down with him to pick his brain on such specific nuanced topics… was just really special.Last thing before we jump into the conversation. Just in case you're not aware, Silas Rossi has created an online community and mentorship program where you can learn from the experts in the best way possible. With Silas' Ascend Membership Program you get access to professional level mentorship, in depth education focusing on the why behind applying techniques, in person calls with Silas, and a wide variety of ever growing education modules around equipment, technical systems, physical training, philosophy, mindset and much much more. In a world where it can be hard to find a mentor and super expensive to hire a guide directly. Silas's ascend membership might just be the perfect middle ground you've been looking for to expand your climbing. Best of all. Silas has generously offered our community 15% off his annual Ascend Membership. All you have to do is click the link in our show notes or use code TCM2025 at check out. I genuinely hope you take advantage of this rare opportunity to access the depths of Silas's wealth of knowledge and experience in the mountains. If I were to ever want a mentor in the climbing space…Silas is the man I would trust. Just to be transparent I get ZERO kickback from sharing Silas's membership. I just genuinely think it's a rare and valuable resource in today's climbing community and am proud to offer my community a discount to such a valuable source of information. Watch The Climbing Majority on Youtube---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Ecotrek Overalls HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your OrderHot Chillys Performance Base LayersCheckout their Micro Elite Chamois Base Layer Systems HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your Order---Get Access to Exclusive Episodes, Unlock Ad-Free Podcast, & MORE!Get 15% OFF Silas' Annual Ascend Membership HERE"Enrollment will require a credit card to receive your 15% discount. If you choose to remain an Ascend member, you will continue to receive 15% off of your recurring annual membership until you choose to cancel it. You can easily unsubscribe anytime to avoid being charged. If you need help with this just reach to me at silas@alpine-logic.com" - Silas
In his earlier years, Kevin dedicated his life to the craft of climbing. He lived in a van, chased adventure across the globe, and devoted every ounce of his energy to the pursuit of performance. During that chapter, he climbed up to 5.13b, established several major first ascents, and ticked over fifteen hundred routes. Climbing wasn't just something Kevin did — it was who he was. His identity was built around his achievements, his grades, and his ever-growing tick list… until one day, everything changed. After successfully rope-soloing Freerider on El Cap, a dream that would represent the pinnacle of accomplishment for many, Kevin found himself not elated — but empty. Confused. Frustrated. Wondering what it all meant. That moment became a turning point — a quiet reckoning that forced him to question why he climbed in the first place. It was from that reflection that a new path emerged. Today, Kevin is an AMGA-Certified Rock Guide and co-owner of Vertical Pursuits, a guiding service based out of Lake Tahoe. His focus has shifted from personal performance to mentorship — helping everyday climbers build competence, confidence, and a deeper connection with the craft.In our conversation, we use Kevin's climbing stories as a framework to explore some of climbing's bigger questions. We start with his rope-solo ascent of Freerider — and how that experience reshaped his identity. Then, we dig into a story from his time climbing with Brad Gobright, using it to dissect the psychology of risk management. From there, we travel back into Kevin's dirtbag years and get to hear several increidble stories. A bear encounter in the Wind River Range. A remote big-wall first ascent in the wilds of British Columbia. And his time on the iconic Andean peak Alpamayo. We wrap up by exploring Kevin's guiding philosophy — how he sees mentorship as one of the most underutilized tools in modern climbing, and how professional instruction can change the way we learn, grow, and stay alive in the mountains.This conversation is full of honesty, vulnerability, and hard-won wisdom. I walked away from it reflecting on my own relationship with climbing, and I think you might too.Watch The Climbing Majority on Youtube---Thanks to our sponsors!LIVSN DesignsCheckout their Ecotrek Overalls HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your OrderHot Chillys Performance Base LayersCheckout their Clima-Tek Base Layer Systems HEREUse Code "TCM15" At Checkout for 15% OFF Your Order---Get Access to Exclusive Episodes, Unlock Ad-Free Podcast, & MORE!---ResourcesBook Kevin's Guide ServicesKevin's Personal WebsiteKevin's IGKevin's Mountain Project Profile---
Welcome to the Sustainable Clinical Medicine Podcast! In this episode, Dr. Sarah Smith sits down with Dr. Paul DeChant, a family physician and former CEO with decades of experience transforming healthcare organizations. Dr. DeChant shares his journey from a frontline family doctor to leading a 300-physician medical group through transformative change using the principles of Lean management—with a core focus on respecting people and restoring joy to the practice of medicine. Together, they explore the root causes of physician burnout, how aligning values and empowering local autonomy can revolutionize clinical workplaces, and the practical strategies—like daily huddles and "getting rid of stupid stuff"—that make care more efficient and sustainable for healthcare teams. If you're looking for real-world insights into creating healthier clinical environments and reclaiming work-life balance, this conversation is packed with ideas, inspiration, and actionable advice. Tune in for expert wisdom on building a medical career—and a life—worth sustaining. Here are 3 key takeaways from this episode: Respect for People Drives Results: Dr. DeChant's leadership at Sutter Gould Medical Foundation focused on Lean principles—especially respect for people and empowering clinicians to solve problems at the local level. This shift led to dramatic improvements in physician satisfaction and organizational performance. Addressing Burnout Means Redesigning Work, Not Just Building Resilience: Burnout is mostly a SYSTEM issue, not an individual failing. By analyzing and redesigning workflows (from front desk processes to the physical design of clinics), Dr. DeChant's team reduced unnecessary burdens, improved efficiency, and helped clinicians reconnect with joy in their work. Daily Huddles for Continuous Improvement: Instituting short, focused daily team huddles had a profound impact—building appreciation, improving communication, and addressing small problems before they snowball. These micro-adjustments collectively created a more supportive environment and drastically reduced staff turnover. Meet Dr. Paul DeChant: Dr. Paul F. DeChant, MD, MBA, FAAFP Principal and Co-Founder, Organizational Wellbeing Solutions, LLC Dr. Paul DeChant is a thought leader on leading organizational transformation and creating healthy workplaces. Paul advises C-level healthcare executives on managing critical problems such as financial and staffing challenges by transforming management systems and cultures to reduce the root causes of clinician burnout, improve KPI performance, and reduce burnout. He supports the AMA's Professional Satisfaction and Practice Sustainment team and teaches at the University of Colorado – Denver's Graduate School of Business. Following 25 years practicing family medicine, Dr. DeChant became CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation, where he led a transformation based on the theme of “Returning Joy to Patient Care.” After four years the group achieved recognition as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California two years in a row, while improving physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey. He received his MD from the Oregon Health Sciences University and his MBA from the University of Colorado-Denver. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.com -------------- Would you like to view a transcript of this episode? Click Here **** Charting Champions is a premiere, lifetime access Physician only program that is helping Physicians get home with today's work done. All the proven tools, support and community you need to create time for your life outside of medicine. Learn more at https://www.chartingcoach.ca **** Enjoying this podcast? Please share it with someone who would benefit. Also, don't forget to hit “follow” so you get all the new episodes as soon as they are released. **** Come hang out with me on Facebook or Instagram. Follow me @chartingcoach to get more practical tools to help you create sustainable clinical medicine in your life. **** Questions? Comments? Want to share how this podcast has helped you? Shoot me an email at admin@reachcareercoaching.ca. I would love to hear from you.
What stops us from practising good self-care even when we know we should? What can we do about it? We all know that practicing good self-care is important. Unfortunately, it isn't always easy.In this episode of Delivering Adventure, Sarah Janin returns to share a story of a time where she inadvertently neglected her self-care which led to some fairly serious consequences. This leads into a great discussion around some of the obstacles around practicing good self-care for us and the people that we may be leading.Sarah is a certified American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA) Rock and Split Board Guide and an assistant AMGA Alpine Guide. Sarah is on the final leg of working towards becoming the first IFMGA certified Mountain Guide who has type 1 diabetes. Based in Boulder Colorado, Sarah currently works as a full-time guide and one of the head guides at the Colorado Mountain School.Sarah joined Delivering Adventure in Season 2 to share her perspective on the importance of self-care. As a type 1 diabetic who leads an extremely athletic lifestyle, Sarah has a unique perspective on the importance and challenges of self-care.Always candid, Sarah shares her real-life challenges and learnings. This is a fantastic conversation.Key InsightsWhat are some of the obstacles to practicing good self-care and how can we avoid them:Common Self-Care Obstacles: Cost, pressure to prioritize service to others ahead of safety to us, and embarrassment as we may be holding others up.Macho Attitude: This is where we or the people we are leading may believe we can handle the consequences of not looking after ourselvesRecognizing Experience as an Obstacle: If we are inexperienced or younger, we may may not appreciate the long-term effects of not practicing good self-care.Projection Bias: This is where it becomes difficult to predict how we might feel based on how we are feeling in the moment. This can also be a reason why we do not prioritize self-care.Prioritizing Self-Care: Recognizing that self-care needs to be a necessary part of our day that needs to be prioritized. This is really step one. Being disciplined and holding ourselves accountable can help with this.Importance of Routine: Following a routine can be extremely beneficial – of note is that one danger sign of neglecting our self-care is when we break from our routine.Guest BioSarah Janin is a full-time mountain guide at Colorado Mountain School located in Boulder Colorado. She is the only full-time female guide at this time and one of their head guides. Sarah became one of the first certified female splitboard guides in America this March of 2024 making history.Sarah is on the AMGA track with one more exam to complete this summer. Her goal is to become the 19th certified female American Mountain Guide. Sarah will then have to pass a ski movement test in order to become IFMGA certified which will be her focus this winter.Sarah has worked as a guide for a decade after getting to experience a few different careers before settling on her true passion. Sarah is also a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic and has been for over 43 years. She will potentially become the first diabetic certified guide this year.Guest LinksColorado Mountain School: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Follow or SubscribeDon't forget to follow the show!Share & Social Linkshttps://linktr.ee/deliveringadventure
Today, we're doing something a little different. For the first time ever, I'm releasing a TCM Legacy Episode—diving back into one of the show's earliest conversations, this one with Joshua Reinig.It's been over three years since this episode first aired, and a lot has changed since then. For some of you, you'll hear a familiar voice—my previous co-host, Max Carrier. But the biggest changes are in Josh's own life, and those changes are exactly why I'm bringing you this newly remastered version of our conversation.I first met Josh over a decade ago, during my very first year of climbing, when he invited me—a complete gumby—out to one of his first ascent projects. Whether he realized it or not, that simple act of kindness shaped me as a climber, and I'm still grateful for it today. I also know I'm not the only one he's impacted in that way.Since then, Josh and I have become close friends, following each other's life stories closely. Over the course of his climbing career, Josh has put up more than 2,000 first ascents and currently sits in the top 20 Mountain Project contributors. His routes often focus on safe, moderate climbing that everyone can enjoy. He's an AMGA apprentice rock and alpine guide with over 6,000 guided trips under his belt. It's safe to say he's dedicated a huge portion of his life to serving the climbing community.One of the main reasons for revisiting this conversation is some exciting news—Josh has just published the most comprehensive guidebook to the Alabama Hills climbing area. This 300-page book features over 700 routes, more than 100 of which are his own first ascents. It's packed with detailed route descriptions, maps, and photos, the product of more than five years of work and documentation. With Alabama Hills now federally recognized as a scenic wildlife area, Josh also includes important guidance on how we can all respect and preserve this fragile place.For Josh, this guidebook is just another extension of what he's always done—sharing climbing with others. He gives huge thanks to Marty and Sharon for mentoring him through the process, and to his wife, Melissa, who played a major role in the documentation and creative work.When I first heard about the guidebook, I offered to have Josh back on the show in person. But unfortunately, Josh has recently been diagnosed with thyroid cancer. The details of his prognosis are still unfolding, but he faces a difficult road ahead—one that may include surgery, chemo, and all the challenges that come with fighting cancer. The location of the cancer has already made speaking difficult, so joining me for a new conversation just wasn't possible.As someone who has spent his life supporting the climbing community, Josh now needs our support. The best way to help is to purchase his Alabama Hills guidebook—link in the show notes. You can also donate directly via his GoFundMe, like I have. And if nothing else, please take a moment to send Josh your thoughts, prayers, or positive energy during this time.----HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! For a little as $5/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!---ResourcesBuy The Alabama Hills GuidebookSupport Joshua on his Go Fund Me PageJoshua Reinig's Mountain Project Profile
Today, we're picking up right where we left off with Petch Pietrolungo—climber, AMGA certified guide, free soloist, and the local legend of Lover's Leap in California. If you missed part one of this conversation, I highly recommend heading back and starting there—it'll give you a deeper appreciation for where we're going today.In this second part, we dive into Petch's journey to becoming an AMGA-certified guide and how he launched Lover's Leap Guides back in 2003. We take a close look at stewardship—what it really means, why it matters, and how we all can contribute to protecting the places we climb, even if we're not out there building trails or replacing bolts.We also get into Petch's relationship with free soloing—not as some reckless pursuit, but as a practice that's deeply personal, calculated, and, in his case, something he attributes to saving his life. He walks us through what it takes to move through the mountains with that kind of confidence, including a mind-blowing day where he soloed 112 pitches… and how those skills and systems carry over into offering large days of climbing to his clients.Finally we close the conversation off with a deeply personal look into Petch's battle with alcoholism… how it impacted his life, and his decision to live sober and fully present moving forward----HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! For a little as $5/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!---The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. Share an episode with a friend.Post about the show on social media.Jump into Reddit threads or Mountain Project forums and tell people what you're listening to.Tag the show, tag your favorite guests, help spread the word.Please rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.----We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesPetch's IGHire Petch As A Guide
Show Notes:Angela's Links:https://alpinist007.com/ (personal website)Angela Hawse takes helm of American Mountain Guides Association board as group leans on women to foster change in guiding cultureEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Angela Hawse.Angela was the 6th woman in the U.S. to become an IFMGA mountain guide with a successful career spanning over three decades. She's trained and examined aspiring guides for the AMGA for the past 19 years and served as the AMGA president for five. Angela's led over 30 high altitude mountaineering expeditions to the world's Greater Ranges and guided remote trips to the Arctic and Antarctic. She skied from Sweden to Norway across Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (500' higher than K2) and has led numerous technical all-women's ascents.She's currently on the board of the IFMGA and the 1st woman and non-European to join the Technical Commission. Angela has a Master's Degree in International Mountain Conservation, is on the POW Alliance Team and a Black Diamond athlete. In 2011 she was awarded AMGA Guide of the Year and in 2022 received the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.I love that she considers herself successful in mountain guiding because she still loves the profession and is still in it for the same reason that she got into it initially. She established a lifelong love of playing in the mountains since she was a kid. Her curiosity let her explore all facets of life related to guiding, and she hardly found boredom. We talked about dealing with burnout, giving back to the communities, her AMGA work, changes in the environment and the industry in the past 30+ years, and making a guide career sustainable. I'm super inspired by all the wisdom Angela brought in. Now please enjoy this episode with Angela Hawse.Things We Talked about:Has been guiding for 3.5 decades and still going strongAngele's special sauce to keep her in the industry for this longStay curiousDiversifyMental bandwidthChildhoodPrescott college and first role modelWas a dedicated climber for many many years before thinking about guidingVarious jobs from Outward Bound, an adjunct position in Prescott, working for different guide services so on and so forthExpeditions and giving backAll women's expeditionsWhat was is like being one of few female guides back then?Ways to develop confidenceAMGA president – what happened during those yearsAMGA's DEI workAngela deeply cares about climate changeTrends and changes Angela saw in the past 3.5 decades in the mountains and in the industryBeing a guide in the US full timeWhat does Angela's work consist of now?Alpinist 007
Rick Spicer has worked with Pack Rat Outdoor Center in Fayetteville for over 25 years. During that time he has developed and led many different wilderness skills classes and programs. He taught climbing as an AMGA single pitch instructor for 15 years and for the last 10 years has focused on backcountry survival. He has worked as an instructor for Boulder Outdoor Survival School in Utah helping to lead their immersive and minimalist wilderness programs. He is the director of a backcountry adventure challenge called the Brewha Bushwhack and is a Wilderness First Responder. Additionally he runs a small business for archery accessories called Mallorn Gear. I met Rick through a mutual friend a year or two ago, and we got to hang together at a little event called Winter Strong in 2024. Rick is the real deal, a solid outdoorsman, family man, and one of my favorite humans. Find Rick at: Website: www.mallorngear.com Pack Rat: www.packratoc.com Instagram: @mallorngear Keep this podcast on the radio waves. Support our show partners: Polite But Dangerous Tools- Use discount code “bowyer” to save 10% off orders. https://politebutdangeroustools.square.site/ Vuni Gear- Use discount code “bowyer15” to save 15% off your order. https://vunigear.com/
Episode Intro: Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, Happy Wednesday, and Happy Lunar New Year of the Snake! This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today, we have Izzy Lazarus as our guest. I've known Izzy for a while, but it wasn't until last fall that I finally got to meet her in person when she came to Red Rock for her AMGA Rock Guide Exam. I knew I had to have her on the show. Izzy grew up in NYC, playing hockey, skateboarding, and finding a connection with the ocean. Her mountain pursuits began with a pre-orientation backpacking trip in the thick Vermont woods, and she's been hooked ever since. Courses in rock and ice climbing and outdoor leadership led her to work at the Colorado Outward Bound School after college. Izzy spent several years working multi-week climbing, mountaineering, backpacking, and backcountry skiing courses, both domestically and abroad. In 2017, she moved to the Tetons to work as an alpine and backcountry ski guide. Between Teton seasons, she traveled and worked in the Southwest desert region and various peaks in the Northwest and Cascades. Several years later, life took her back to Vermont to work for the UVM Outdoor Programs Dept and guide on the side. Izzy has a passion for adventure that is only surpassed by her love of education, teaching, building connections with people from around the world, and cooking! Izzy is a Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Splitboard Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide. We talked about Izzy's different transitions in life, from a big city to the great outdoors, from seasonal guiding to a full-time job. We discussed what ignited these transitions, how she managed the changes, and what she learned from her experiences. Izzy always seems to have a positive outlook on life and genuinely cares about the people around her, wanting to learn from them. Izzy's energy and positive attitude towards life are truly radiant. I had so much fun chatting with her, and I bet you'll enjoy our conversation too. Izzy's Links: Izzy's profile on AMGA website Setting the Track Things We Talked about: From a big city to the mountains The power of metaphors What guiding is about for Izzy Izzy's first mountain experience From 13 years of hockey to finding identity in the outdoors The UVM outdoor programs West versus East for example Tetons versus Vermont Outward Bound years Nudged and mentored by other amazing female guides in the Teton Valley Female representation in the guiding / climbing community Seasonal guiding versus a full time job Sustainability Information gathering Izzy loves planning but also loves spontaneity Burn outs? Next phase? Best guide tool
Show Notes: Laurie's Links: @laurie_wattclimbs https://linktr.ee/Laurie_Watt https://www.mooneymountainguides.com/ Episode Intro: Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, Happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. On the first episode of the new year, 2025, we have Laurie Watt as our guest. Laurie has just been awarded the “Best Guide of the Year” by the AMGA. Laurie fell in love with hiking and skiing in the mountains as a kid, but it wasn't until she had sent her kids off to college that she was able to fully embrace mountain life. While raising her family, she also cultivated a 32-year career in physical therapy. In 2006, she moved to Switzerland with her family for her husband's job. Living in the Alps quickly reminded Laurie of her love for adventuring in the mountains. After returning to the States in 2011, she expanded her skill set to rock and ice climbing. Once the kids were off to college, Laurie decided to make a major career change and committed to becoming a guide. Through training, mentorship, and many days out, she is progressing through the American Mountain Guides Association's rock, ice, and alpine disciplines. Laurie works full-time as a guide for Mooney Mountain Guides in New Hampshire, guiding rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering. In the summers, she travels to the Pacific Northwest and guides on the glaciers of Mt. Baker. She offers women-centered programming in rock, ice, and mountaineering. In addition, Laurie also works as a climbing coach for the Holderness School Climbing Team. In this episode, we dive deep into how Laurie cultivated a great mentorship from the side of a mentee, how she challenged the common narrative on aging and used the life skills she accumulated from being a PT and a mom to enrich guiding, and how she sustained the physically demanding guiding career. Things We Talked about: Came in guiding late around age 50 had been living a “normal” life – college, job, family until the “pivotal” moment to regain the love of the mountains back to the States went straight towards Mt Washington in winter why does Laurie enjoy hardship? when was the seed of becoming a guide planted? what were the biggest doubts back then on career change? what did she need as a mentee? self awareness versus self perception deep discussion on mentorship might be late on the guiding profession but all the experiences accumulated beforehand were still valuable skills Laurie didn't think useful but turned out to be very useful in guiding? how to stay employed as a guide in Northeast taking care of a guide's body making guiding sustainable was guiding the way she thought? what kind of guiding does Laurie do? how did the family react to her career change? the narrative of aging best guide tool: listening
Show Notes:Joann's Links:Ladies Weekend Out (website)Golden State Guiding (website)Sierra Mountain Center (website)The Mountain Guides Red Rock branchJoann's instagramEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast,Happy Wednesday and Merry Christmas! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. Today, our guest is Joann Garbarini, who also goes by Jo. We worked together on a Ladies Weekend Out event back in March 2024, but it wasn't until months later that I finally got a chance to sit down with her and learn about her stories.Jo grew up on the East Coast and began climbing in The Shawangunk Mountains as a teenager. She has been hiking and rock climbing for over 20 years all around the United States, Canada, and Europe. Jo spends her time bouncing back and forth between The Eastern Sierra and Red Rock. She loves living and guiding in these places because of the access to climbing. During the warmer months, she loves climbing long alpine routes in the backcountry. As the weather gets colder and snow appears, you can find her climbing in the Owens River Gorge in Bishop or on sandstone in Red Rock.Joann is a certified Wilderness First Responder, holds an AIARE Avalanche Level 1 certificate, and has been trained by the AMGA as an Apprentice Rock Guide. Jo loves guiding clients and sharing her passion for the outdoors with them.Jo started her career path as a high school teacher and is now transitioning to holding just two jobs—a realtor and a guide. She has found a great balance between these two professions, which leaves her enough energy and time to stay healthy and enjoy her own climbing.Things We Talked about:Jo's playgrounds nowadaysBorn and Raised in the East Coast. Got into climbing in high school and was mentored by a good friend's stepdadMoved to CA looking for better weather to play in the mountainsStopped climbing for a while due to unfriendly atmosphere at the first gym she went toPicked up climbing again due to a supportive Meetup groupFrom weekend warriors to living in BishopTeacher, realtor, guide – wearing many hatsenjoy working with motivated peoplewas afraid that guiding full time might lead to burnouthow to balance between two jobs, injury prevention, personal climbing and logevitynext step to advance her careergreat experience in her AMGA Rock Guide Coursechallenges and rewards in guidingguiding is like running a business
https://femaleguidesrequested.com/podcast/ep-39-genevive-walker-stay-true/Show Notes:Genevive's Links:WebsiteInstrgramRace to Survive AlaskaFinding Balance Off the ScaleEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. Today, our guest is Genevive Walker. I first learned her name a few years ago when she stirred up a heated discussion on route names. This discussion quickly led to real actions within the climbing community to change inappropriate route names. I was thrilled that, through a mutual friend, I could invite her to talk about her life stories on the show.Genevive Walker is a professional rock climber, rock climbing guide, and active lifestyle model with a passion for promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion in the outdoor industry. She began climbing in the Shawangunk Mountains in 2012, sparking her love for steep routes, roofs, and anything that requires kneebar trickery. After seven years in the sport, she started her career as a Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Being part of the first all-female SPI cohort in 2018 opened her eyes to the disparities and inequalities within the climbing industry and ignited her mission to build community and offer representation for BIPOC climbers. Genevive is an athlete for Mountain Hardwear, DMM, Sterling Rope, and Gnarly Nutrition. She was also an athlete on Race to Survive: Alaska along with climber Favia Dubyk.I had so much fun chatting with Genevive. In this episode, you can hear laughter from beginning to end. We talked about how Genevive found climbing and guiding, how her family views her current lifestyle, what kind of guiding excites her the most, and how she manages social media. We also touched on more serious topics such as fear and her battle with disordered eating. Now, please enjoy this delightful conversation with Genevive Walker.Things We Talked about:Before Genevive found climbingHow does Genevive's family views her current lifestyle?Climbing let Genevive find another way to enjoy lifeGenevive started as a trad climber because that was the only thing availableWhen did Genevive have the thought to become a guide?Took the first all Women's SPI course sponsored by the AMGA, Brown Girls Climb, and Flash FoxyKeep expectation low and keep surprise herselfThe guiding lifeLove to work with women and climbers of color and that's the reason she loves guidingGunks, current statusRoute name debate and a movement to change route namesIdentity as a climber, model, and guideExcitement led to more work opportunitiesEating disorderWanting to fit in?The social mediaMentorship with the ProTrackPartnership with Favia DubykFear Talk
Show Notes:Related Resources:AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSPI handbook (2024)EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk ManagementEP 29 – Everything SPI 02 – Site Selection & Group ManagementEP 34 – Everything SPI 03 – Current SPI Eval System with Andrew Megas-RussellEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas, and welcome back to another episode of the Everything SPI series. Today, Spencer and I will be discussing the important topic of Teaching and Curriculum Design. Both Spencer and I are thrilled about this episode.We'll start by discussing the types of courses that can be taught utilizing single pitch terrain. Then, we'll dive into our guiding principles, RACK and FIRE. We'll use a case study to explore the “F” in FIRE, which stands for Formulate, in detail.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy!Things We Talked about:What can we teach utilizing single pitch terrain?Guiding principles – RACK (Risk management, Ask questions, Collect information, Keep it simple)FIRE Overview (Formulate, Implement, Reflect, Enhance)Formulate:Who are the students? Define ratio, prerequisites. (Potential trouble here, students' level are quite different)Course goal, objectives, outcome. Set priority.Structure/visualize the day and write/prepare lesson plansProgression and regression (make sure we have the flexibility to scale up and scale down)Divide and conquer, break the whole course into different sessions and classes. Utilize overlaps, so people practice new skills based on the foundations of learned skills. Many times less is moreHands on practice and mini evaluations – Give students ample opportunities to get hands on. Ask questions to encourage reflection and self-evaluation. Also build in mini evaluation (this will help instructors to know where students are at and when to push to the next phase).Time management (check back with priority list) Pack/gather gearClient harnesses/helmets/shoesProgram ropes (how many??), etc.
Adrian and Sam chat about what it means to be a mountain guide. From introducing the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) to discussing the decades of guides who came before the AMGA path was the standard, this episode is a great starting point for those curious about the training and business side of the guiding industry.
EP 35 – Kristin Arnold & Sheldon Kerr – Break Down Barriers – Female Guides Requested PodcastKristin's & Sheldon's Links:Moxie Website: https://www.moxiemountainguides.com/The indigenous organization Moxie supports in SW CO: https://store.southernute-nsn.gov/product-category/bgcsu/All In Ice Fest: https://allinicefest.com/DEI trainings Kristin and Sheldon have completed and activists from the community that have helped to support their learning: Check Your Privilege: https://www.checkyourprivilege.co/store & Habit Queer: https://www.habitqueer.com/about-meThese Colorado Women Are Reframing What It Means to Be a Mountain Guide – 5280The Woman Who Is Pushing for Gender Equality in the Guiding World – PowderEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have two guests, Kristin Arnold and Sheldon Kerr, founders of Moxie Mountain Guides. I was super excited to finally pinned them down from their busy schedule to have this conversation. When I edited this episode, I paused multiple times to reflect and ask myself questions. What is a guide? What is a good guide? What are the so-called soft skills and how do they play a role in risk management? I learned so much from them and I'm so happy that they started Moxie.Both Kristin and Sheldon are IFMGA mountain guides. IFMGA stands for International Federation of Mountain Guides Association, and their certification is the highest credential attainable by a professional mountain guide. As of spring 2024, they are 2 of 17 total women IFMGA in the US. Together they created Moxie Mountain Guides to align the profession of guiding with their values. Let me share a quote from their website “We guide for good. We believe representation matters. We want the mountain to be inclusive space for women, non-binary and trans-identifying backcountry athletes – no matter your body type, race, or gender.” Moxie strives to break down the social and financial barriers to accessing high-end technical instruction.Kristin and Sheldon are also AMGA Instructor Team members. They teach AMGA mountain guide programs, including women's Rock Guide course. I heard encouraging stories from their students and was curious to learn more about their philosophy and approach. In this episode we had a deep dive into what affinity space does, why inclusion is a fundamental component of risk management, how we should advocate equality and justice, and what professionalism means to guides. You will recognize their voices very quickly when you start listening, but to give you a head start. The first person talked was Kristin. Without further ado, let's go and enjoy the Moxie ride!
Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is the third episode of the "Everything SPI" series. And yes I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today we have a guest from the AMGA office, Andrew Megas-Russell. Andrew is the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. He oversees the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.The main topic of the episode was the new evaluation system. We talked about the background of transitioning from the old system to the new system and what the AMGA is trying to accomplish with the new system. We looked at the new scoring system and what factors would impact the score. We discussed how the new system has been received by the providers and candidates, etc. We also talked about other general topics such as high standard versus minimum standard, continuing future improvements on the SPI program, interesting stats, and exciting upcoming changes.Links:Official AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSPI Program handbookEP 20 Everything SPI 01 Professionalism & Risk ManagementEP 29 Everything SPI 02 Site Selection & Group ManagementAndrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/What We Talked AboutAndrew's role in AMGA. Why is he relevant to SPI programsFrom the old eval system to the new eval systemOverview of the new system and major improvements of the new systemHow to interpret the score? Addition? Subtraction?How do SPI providers and SPI candidates feel about the new scoring system?What's a strong written evaluation?The different roles played by the post exam debrief and written evaluationIs there an appeal process?Is it appropriate to say that SPI is an entry-level course?Are there too many SPIs out there?Interesting stats
I'm sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude
When it comes to delivering adventure, you will only go as far as your body allows. The challenge for many of us is that in our quest for adventure we can neglect our own self care.When this happens our performance can decline, our decision-making abilities can be compromised, and we are more prone to making mistakes that can lead to misadventure. This makes the ability to effectively manage self care an essential adventure skill.One person that knows this all too well is Sarah Janin. Sarah is a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic who guides split boarding, skiing, rock and alpine climbing. Sarah is on the final leg of working towards becoming the first IFMGA certified Mountain Guide who has type 1 diabetes. Based in Boulder Colorado, Sarah currently works as a full-time guide and one of the head guides at the Colorado Mountain School.As someone who didn't start rock climbing until she was in her mid-thirties, Sarah is well aware of the importance of self-care. Her dedication to self-care allowed her to pursue a guiding designation in her forties when most people start down this path in their twenties. Being diabetic, failing to practice effective self-care while leading such an active life can literally lead to fatal consequences.In this discussion, we discuss what it takes to manage our self care and why it's so hard to do it well. Sarah gives us an extremely candid account of what it takes to manage our self-care as leaders and how to manage it for others. She also gives us a unique insight into the life of someone who delivers adventure as an insulin dependent diabetic.Key TakeawaysIt takes discipline: This includes being diligent about preparing ourselves beforehand and following up with recovery such as stretching, strengthening and rehabilitative care such as physiotherapy afterwards.The importance of pacing: Sarah touched on the value of taking breaks to recharge, taking rest days, and varying activity. Taking rest days and doing different activity can keep us fresh and give different muscles a break while others get a workout.Being vigilante: This includes staying situationally aware of ourselves and the people we might be leading. This may require us to check in with people and ourselves regularly.Educating ourselves and others: On what to look for to keep everyone operating at their peak. This can add value to the overall experience. Who doesn't like to learn how to perform better?Scaling back to pace energy is not a loss, it's a win: It can allow us to perform better, enjoy what we are doing and ultimately to go farther. As the saying goes, Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.Guest BioSarah Janin is a full-time mountain guide at Colorado Mountain School located in Boulder Colorado. She is the only full-time female guide at this time and one of their head guides. Sarah became one of the first certified female splitboard guides in America this March of 2024 making history.Sarah is on the AMGA track with one more exam to complete this summer. Her goal is to become the 19th certified female American Mountain Guide. Sarah will then have to pass a ski movement test in order to become IFMGA certified which will be her focus this winter.Sarah has worked as a guide for a decade after getting to experience a few different careers before settling on her true passion. Sarah is also a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic and has been for over 43 years. She will potentially become the first diabetic certified guide this year.Guest LinksColorado Mountain School: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Follow or SubscribeDon't forget to follow the show!Share & Social Links
Miranda Oakley is an AMGA certified rock climbing guide, who set the record for being the first woman to rope solo the Nose in a day. As a Palestinian-American, she recently made headlines by hanging a political banner on the side of El Cap. We discuss this unlikely nexus between climbing and activism, and imagine how it can go right or wrong. But first, fresh off a week of climbing in America's new favorite sport crag, Kalous has some observations he wants to share. For our final bit, we're stoked to share the Salt Lake City progressive rock climber band Better in Color with their track “The Imprisoned One.” Show Notes Follow Miranda Oakley on Instagram Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan Movement Lessons from Climbers With Palestine's Yosemite Banner Hang Better in Color Follow Better in Color on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com
Show Notes:Related resources:AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSpencer Huffman's Instagram @shuffrocksSzu-ting Yi (Ting Ting)'s Instagram @szutingyiSPI handbook (2024)EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk ManagementEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I'm still in my home country Taiwan. Today my dear friend and colleague Spencer Huffman returned for the Everything SPI series. We tried our best to extract and organize important nuggets from our past experiences to help single pitch instructors and whoever wants to enter the field of guiding. In this episode, we focus on Site Selection and Group Management. If you would like to check out our first episode of the series, please visit episode 20 in which we talked about Professionalism and Risk Management.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy the second episode of Everything SPI with Spencer and Ting Ting.Things We Talked about:How to plan the dayHow to actually run a climbing dayClient ScreeningCourse designCase StudyUnderstand the sitesUnderstand your clients – deliver a compelling experienceTime ManagementGroup Management… and more
Dr. Paul DeChant advises C-level healthcare executives on managing critical problems such as financial and staffing challenges by addressing the root causes of clinician burnout. Following 25 years practicing family medicine in settings as varied as the San Francisco bay area, Breckenridge Colorado, and Geisinger Health in Central Pennsylvania, he became CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation, where he led a transformation that achieved recognition for the group as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California two years in a row, while improving physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey. He received his MD from the Oregon Health Sciences University and his MBA from the University of Colorado-Denver. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.com In this episode, we chat about: :: Paul's journey from clinician to advisor :: concepts of burnout, resilience, and moral injury :: how to reduce chaos and reduce order in the healthcare workplace :: how value conflicts affect the medical system :: how COVID19 affected clinicians :: how he works with senior leadership at healthcare organizations to identify and intervene on sources of burnout :: the relevance of "Undercover Boss" to the approach Paul takes :: the impact his work has created on staff satisfaction and retention You can find Paul online here: www.pauldechantmd.com www.organizationalwellbeingsolutions.com https://www.linkedin.com/in/pauldechantmd/ To email him: paul@pauldechantmd.com ************ For more information on my book, Patient, Empower Thyself!, including the pre-order link, go to: https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Patient-Empower-Thyself!/Claudia-Cometa/9781954676893
Show Notes:Margaret's links:Instagram https://www.instagram.com/margaret_wheeler/Meet Margaret Wheeler (AMGA video)Among Mountain Guides, This Woman Is a Rarity – Ski MagWhy IFMGA-certified guide Margaret Wheeler believes that variety makes a difference in the mountains (backcountrymagazine.com)The Ultimate Guide | Dartmouth Alumni MagazineEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting delivering this wonderful new episode from my home country Taiwan. I am very excited about today's guest, Margaret Wheeler. I still remember how amazed I was years ago, seeing her, very pregnant, teaching technical skills in an AMGA video. After I started this podcast I kept getting requests to have her on the show. I was fortunate to finally steal a couple hours from her busy life!In the guiding world, Margaret needs little introduction. She is the second U.S. woman to earn the IFMGA mountain guide title. She is an instructor of guide training for the AMGA and serves on its board of directors and as president of the organization. She is involved in avalanche education through her work as an AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) instructor and trainer. Right now Margaret and her husband Matt Farmer split their time between the Wood River Valley Idaho and Europe.Margaret is a wonderful story teller and her life never has a dull moment. She started chasing her brothers around the ski slopes of New England which led to a stint ski bumming in Chamonix France right after college. She bounced back and forth between the so-called real life and wild adventures and eventually found her happy true identity in mountain guiding. She also shared so much wisdom and philosophy about guiding from years of experience and her analytical approach to problem solving. She provided a viewpoint on guiding as a career, her expectations towards guide education and how the guiding community can help each other navigate through various challenges. Margaret talked specifically about how to make guiding a sustainable career and how to balance that with having a familyTime flew by quickly and I didn't even get to ask all of my questions. I hope I will soon have a chance to do another follow up interview with her. Listeners please enjoy this fantastic episode and let me know what other questions you might want to ask Margaret next time!
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Alyssa and Steve welcome AMGA guide Bill Allen, to discuss guiding practices and client preparation at altitude. They provide recommendations for clients concerned about altitude, how a guide assists and assess' clients at high altitudes and how guides keep themselves safe on the mountain. They continue with common mistakes they see from clients and offer specific advice to make the best out of your high altitude mountain trip. Tune in to hear from two expert guides and learn their perspective on staying safe in the mountains.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com You can learn more about Mountain Trip at: https://mountaintrip.com/
Tanner is a Single Pitch Instructor certified by the AMGA, American Mountain Guides Association. He currently works as a behavioral interventionist and community coach for a Colorado based group called, "REVEL" where he leads climbing and rafting trips for people with autism. He also teaches clinics at festivals like the annual Adaptive Climbing Festival, where he brings first-hand experience as a lower-limb amputee. In today's conversation we talk about the current push for more mountain guides with disabilities, and importance of properly fitted prosthetics. Tanner is also a member of the ROMP climbing team. ROMP stands for Range of Motion Project — their climbing team goes on expeditions to raise money for the nonprofit, which Tanner will tell us all about…"
Allie's links:Instagram: @tahoeallieWebsite: www.allieace.wordpress.comEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Our guest today is Allie Ace. We met in an SPI course. She told me that she had been an active listener of the show and resonated deeply with a few prior guests, especially Mia Tucholke. She mentioned that she had a very positive experience with her AMGA courses and wanted to encourage other aspirant female guides not to be afraid to take the first steps to become a guide.Originally from the east coast, Allie learned to ski in the Poconos at the age of 3. In 2010, she moved to Tahoe to pursue bigger mountains and a full time career in the ski industry. She has traveled all over the country and the world to teach skiing and coach ski racing. Allie is a USSS Level 400 Alpine Coach, Coach Developer and Alpine Official, has her PSIA Alpine Level 3, Children's Specialist 2, Freestyle Specialist 1, Resort & Divisional Trainer, and Snowboard Level 1. With her eye on steeper and deeper lines, Allie started backcountry guiding in 2020. She is an AIARE Course Instructor, has her Pro 1, and is an AMGA Apprentice Ski & Alpine Guide. Allie currently lives in Truckee, CA, works for Alpenglow Expeditions, NASTC and is the lead alpine trainer at Sugar Bowl Resort. She is working towards her avy Pro 2 and the PSIA National Team this season. When not skiing, Allie enjoys whitewater rafting, kayaking, rock climbing and yoga.Allie is very passionate about continuing education and training. She is serious about being outstanding in her job and equipping her clients and students with current and relevant knowledge. I learned so much from her. We found there are many analogies between the ski and rock disciplines. Without further ado, let's dive in this episode with Allie Ace.What We Talked About:What We Talked AboutFrom PA to CATaught ski racing and coaching in resortsHeaded to AK and got into backcountry skiingHow long did it take Allie to make the shift from resorts to mountains?Allie used to have a dream to heli ski but when she skied in the mountains in AK, she realized she didn't need a helicopterAllie had a great schedule when she was in AK, which allowed her to ski much on her own in the mountainsMoved back to Tahoe but the pandemic shut down resortsDue to the pandemic the demand for guides for backcountry skiing increased dramaticallyWould love to transition the ski racing kids to backcountry skiingThink it's really cool to equip those kids with good decision making ability in the mountainsWhat are the steps Allie took to feel comfortable guiding in the backcountry?Had great mentors in AKTook AIARE and AMGA courses, did in house training and shadowed many trips and coursesCertification in ski industry?Recreational track and pro trackHow and why did Allie start her AMGA journey?Allie had a very positive experience with the AMGAWhat's next on Allie's plate?How long is Allie's guiding season?What do people do off-season?Via Ferrata in Tahoe areaProudest momentOne big take away?
This week's episode is all about guides as a type of climbing mentor. First, we hear from Kevin, a friend of mine and an AMGA certified rock guide about some of the general benefits of hiring a guide, what to look for, and what an AMGA certification actually means in the world of climbing guides. And then from Cecil, an instructor and guide for the Seattle-based non-profit Climbers of Color. Cecil talks about the benefits of learning from a guide who not only empathizes with your life experiences but one who is intentionally teaching climbing skills for a new generation of climbers to get outside and feel empowered to do so.Resources:Climbers of ColorKevin's websiteand his IG: @kevhamrichAMGA websiteCity Rock climbing gymCirque climbing gym
Show Notes:Sarah's links:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sarah.b.jamin/CMS guide profile: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarah.janin.7Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday and happy Valentine's Day. Our guest today is Sarah Janin from Boulder Colorado. A mutual friend highly recommended Sarah to me and I was so glad that I had the honor to interview her.Many things about Sarah amaze me. She grew up on a small island and immediately fell in love with mountains and snow sports when she moved to Colorado. She can soon become the first female AMGA certified splitboard guide. She is also type 1 diabetic but she manages it well and is actively pursuing another big goal of hers to become the first type 1 diabetic IFMGA guide.After many career changes, she found guiding at 35 and fell in love with it. Now at 45, Sarah appreciates that she started her guiding career later in life as she is still motivated and passionate to improve as a guide and does not feel burnt out. Right now Sarah is a Certified Rock Guide, Aspirant Splitboard Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, Avalanche Instructor, and WFR Instructor. She works full time for Colorado Mountain School, and has been working hard to organize more women's programs. One of her goals is to continue to empower and create a more open environment for all who identify as female.I really enjoyed talking with Sarah. She emitted so much positive energy and has so much devotion to what she set her mind to do. Let's dive in and I know you will be inspired by the conversation.Things We Talked about:From an island girl to a mountain girlGrowing up in the wildernessMoved to CO and fell into with mountains and snow sportsLoved snowboardingIn order to extend winter, let's go to South AmericaCompare skiing with snowboardingSkis are better tool for guiding and the reasons…It was an accident that Sarah became a guideAt some point decided to work for a company and stayed inside but the company sent her to Boulder COSpeed up the AMGA trackBest part of guiding?Want to show people the wilderness and the importance to preserve itDid gender ever play a role in Sarah's guiding career?Has always worked in male-dominated fieldsConfidence and determination helpedHow to manage being type I diabetic?How does it feel to instruct all female groupsCreate a better environment for womenApproach to facilitate all women coursesHow to turn experience into confidenceFound guiding relatively lateMotion is lotionNext steps/goalsProudest moment
Show Notes:Meg's links:Instagram: @Meg_YinglingCounseling Website: https://www.crystalcreekcounseling.com/copy-of-longmontGuiding, Coaching and Providing SPI Courses through KMAC GuidesA Thousand Ways To Kiss The GroundEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and today's guest is Megan Yingling from Colorado.Meg came on my radar when I accidentally saw her post on Facebook. In that post, she described her experience with grieving, mental health and climbing. She mentioned that she was becoming a psychotherapist and wanted to help people who suffered similar trauma like she did before. At that moment I also recalled just seeing her name on the new SPI Provider list from an AMGA email. Bing! I wanted her on the show.So here she is,Meg (she/they) is a pre-licensed psychotherapist, AMGA certified Rock Guide, and SPI Provider based out of Estes Park, Colorado.Throughout her two decades in the sport, Meg has learned that climbing and guiding can provide the highest highs but does not come without its challenges and barriers. Meg has dedicated her career to navigating the intersection between mental health and climbing and has a deep passion in helping others achieve their goals.Meg loves climbing, running, and playful exploring in her home range of Rocky Mountain National Park.It was a fun conversation and I learned a lot. Meg shared experiences that many of us can relate to and provided great insights on dealing with fear and grief. Hope you enjoyed this conversation just like I did.Things We Talked about:The origin of Meg's last name: YinglingCurrently, where Meg resides in, works for, and doesTake root in ColoradoClimbing in ColoradoHow did Megan get into guiding?Started as a comp kid and then discovered outdoor climbingLots of “firsts” in Black CanyonWhen Meg started outside was often told she was bad at ropesRealization: rope skill was a learned skill. No one started as a rope personHow Meg bugged her mentorsHer first AMGA Rock Guide Course rocked herClimbing and mental healthDealing with fear2020 was a tough year for Meg, lots of grievingClimbing Grief FundA Thousand Ways to Kiss the Ground (A documentary)Went back to school and wanted to be a therapistCombining what she learned in school (outdoor education and psychology) and (therapy training) with guidingDual approach with coaching and guidingFramingObserving people's body languages and discovering signs for fearNervous system response explainedHow to create a safe learning environmentThe path to become an SPI ProviderProudest momentsHope listeners to take away
Show Notes:Lyra's links:Movementum WebsiteLyra's Instagram @pierotlyEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today our guest is Lyra Pierotti.Lyra has been guiding and instructing for over half of her life. She is an AMGA Rock Guide and Alpine Guide, and has just one more exam in May of 2024 to achieve full international certification.Being a woman guide has had its challenges over the years, so Lyra has managed those additional gendered risks with additional work, developing an overlapping and supportive career as a personal trainer. She passed a similarly coveted certification from the NSCA in 2017, to become a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Lyra is a senior guide with Alpine Ascents International, a staff Instructor Trainer with AIARE, and has her own small business coaching mountain athletes, called MOVEmentum.In this episode we talked about how Lyra "stumbled" into guiding after college, how her love of science and art of movement served as a compass for her to navigate through different phases of her guiding career. After an injury almost ended her guiding career and athletic life, she persevered and regained her footings and used her knowledge to help other mountain athletes. She also shared her experience serving as a board member of the AMGA, and offered some insights for newer guides.I really enjoyed this conversation with Lyra and wished I could talk with her for another hour or two. And I know you'll feel the same way too. Things We Talked about:How Lyra "stumbled" into guidingFrom a marine biologist to a mountain guideStudy abroad led to French AlpsFound a perfect job description from school's mailing list which combined scientific research and playing outsideRealized that she didn't have to go far to find great alpine environment - Eastern SierrasBishop daysClimate changed wiped guiding work outStarted writing for a local paperAlways in back of her mind, thinking of something to augment guiding or potentially replace guidingEntering the next phase: moving from CA to WAHer single mom was a huge inspiration to LyraThe love of art flows in the familyThe next phase: bringing coaching and personal training into guidingTalking about career longevity for guiding: self care, connection with clients … etcA ill-fitted backpack on Denali almost ended her guiding lifeAfter years of rehab and self study Lyra finally gained back her footingsUsed the knowledge she gained from years of self-discovery and recovery to help other mountain athletesTalking about mental healthWhat happened when the pandemic hit?Different mentorship structuresOn the board of the AMGAHer talk at Mountaineers Leadership conferenceAnd more …
Episode Intro:Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday and Happy New Year of 2024. This is Ting Ting from Las Vegas. I am very excited to announce a new series, Spencer Huffman and I are creating, which we call Everything SPI. SPI stands for Single Pitch Instructor and is one of the certification programs the AMGA, American Mountain Guides Association, offers.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs. Hopefully it will help our past and future students and potentially anyone who is thinking to enter the field of climbing instruction.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights; we also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to us and help us improve. Thanks! And now please enjoy the very first episode of Everything SPI with Spencer and Ting Ting.
It takes a village to raise an ice festival, and for Liz Sahagún and her co-organizers, it's all hands on deck for the All In Ice Fest — which will take place from January 5th to the 7th of 2024. Entering their third year, the mission of the fest is to create a space where folks from historically marginalized communities can simply have fun ice climbing without having to feel like they're checking a box that defines their identity. To help make ice climbing more accessible, Liz, Claire, Mari, Christina, Rosie, and the rest of the team started All In to help reduce barriers to the sport — they do this by offering low-cost clinics and programs to develop as guides, cater to people of all physical abilities, and fostering a culture where folks can simply show up and feel welcome.Listen on to hear how Liz first fell in love with the mountains, her Journey to 30 ice climbing road trip, and how she's developed her self-care toolbox. Resources and links:If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here.Want to learn more about what affinity spaces are and why they are important? The AMGA helps explain in an article by Monserrat Alvarez.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Cover photo by Louis Arevalo.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
In today's episode we have guest Kristi Buckley, climbing coach and AMGA single pitch instructor based out of the New River Gorger. We dive into the topic of intentions and how climbers can make intentions, how intentions help you with your session and overarching climbing goals. Ways to connect with KristiInstagram: kristi.buckleyEmail: buckleykristi@gmail.comThe Free Lifting GuideWebsite Support the show
Show Notes:Laura's links:Laura's PT Practice (website) https://realign-pt.com/Laura's Personal Instagram https://www.instagram.com/lkschmoo/Wave Tools Therapy (website) https://wavetoolstherapy.com/Wave Tools Therapy (Instagram) https://www.instagram.com/wavetoolstherapy/Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, welcome back. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today is another beautiful Wednesday so I'm delivering another fantastic episode with our guest Laura Schmonsees.I've been wanting to interview Laura for quite some time. She has an amazing life story and has gone through quite a few career transitions from a full time instructor and guide to a physical therapist and then to an entrepreneur. She is definitely not afraid of trying new things and she always figures out a way to make them work. She was also one of the first female AMGA certified Rock Guide when she obtained the certification in 2001. Climbing has always be one of Laura's greatest passions.In this episode, Laura talked about how her first NOLS course changed her life. How that experience inspired her to live and work in the outdoors. And after 10 years working full time for NOLS visiting and living in pristine and wild places, why she decided to transition into guiding with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and later what made her decide to start from ground zero and enter the physical therapy school and eventually started her company Wave Tools Therapy, educating others and selling athletic recovery products.We also discussed how to prevent injury and perform self care to make one's guiding and athletic life longer and more sustainable. There are so many insights in Laura's answers and I can't wait to share our conversations with you all.Things We Talked about:At age 19 Laura took her first NOLS course and it changed her lifeAfter the NOLS course Laura transferred to Prescott CollegeWorking for NOLS full time for 10 years (1997-2007)Why Laura loves NOLS (wild places, truly remote, and impact on people)NOLS versus guiding?NOLS has long courses and at some point, Laura wanted more groundingGuiding has shorter tripsBecame one of the first female AMGA Rock GuidesLeaving guiding was hard but it was time for Laura to transition againPhysical therapy school from the comfort of being good at something you've done for a long time to a total beginnerMountain Senses / Mountain Skills?Mentorship situation in NOLS and in JHMG (Jackson Hole Mountain Guides)Do people romanticize guiding?Currently Laura sees patients and work on her business Wave Tools Therapy to diversify her work timeWhat are the common guides' injuries?What are the strategies guides can use for injury preventionSelf care for a longer athletic lifeStart and run a businessProudest momentsOne big take away?Tolerance of uncertainty and adversity
Show Notes:Andrea's links:Andrea's personal Instagram: @vtandreaAndrea's “side hustle” on Etsy: AlpineJoy – https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlpineJoyShorts – “Another Way” Series with @mammutnaYouTube, Climbing the Rose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ns4fwECW0qkVimeo, Finding Strength in Fragile Places: https://vimeo.com/612191876Episode Intro:Dear listeners, happy Wednesday and welcome to another episode of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas.Today's guest is Andrea Charest and she is very special. I met Andrea in 2007 at my very first WFR course on the east coast. I after all moved to the west coast wanting to climb longer objectives but thanks to the rise of social media, Andrea and I stayed connected.Right now Andrea co-owns Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School. She is an AMGA Certified Ice Instructor, Assistant Rock Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide. She navigates work and life as a mother, partner, guide, ally, and Mammut Ambassador.In this episode Andrea talked about how she started her guiding career in Vermont, how she found harmony between motherhood and work, and how she regained her footing after a devastating accident almost claimed her husband, Steve's life.During her interview, Andrea expressed gratitude to the climbing community, emphasizing the immense support she's received. Andrea is humble, and resilient, competent and professional, she loves what she is doing and she is damn good at what she is doing.Now please enjoy this episode.Things We Talked about:Motherhood – planned or unplanned? Somewhere in betweenCareer? Kid? Biological clock?It's all part of the decision makingPregnancy versus climbing; impact on guidingExperience sharing how she managed to raise a kid and continue workingThe role of a nanny, family and friendsSteve's accidentThe support from the climbing communityWhat Andrea and Steve learned from Steve's accident from the perspective of a business ownerInjuries can happenHow did Andrea start her guiding careerIce versus rockThe magic of guidingThe love of the outdoorsHow's climbing in AdirondacksAndrea's experience sharing on her AMGA rock guide examHow Andrea learned from the “failed” attempt and moved onWhat's the role of ego play in climbing and in an exam?Why did Andrea pursue Ice InstructorEast coast guiding, particularly the tri-state: NY, NH, VTWork life harmonyProudest momentsWhat Andrea wants listeners to take away?Climbing in New England
Dr. Paul F. DeChant, MD, MBA, FAAFP is a family physician and healthcare leader who advises C-level executives on reducing physician burnout. As CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation he led a transformation that improved physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey and achieved recognition for the group as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California, two years in a row. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.com Link to claim CME credit: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/3DXCFW3CME credit is available for up to 3 years after the stated release dateContact CEOD@bmhcc.org if you have any questions about claiming credit.
For Andrea Charest, climbing is entwined with community. She and her husband Steve own Petra Cliffs, a climbing gym and mountaineering school in Burlington, Vermont where they also work as guides. She's volunteered much of her time over the years to Crag Vermont, a nonprofit organization dedicated to conserving, protecting and advocating for climbing access in the Green Mountain State (her's is the first face you see on the organization's website–a face that is surprisingly calm as as she reaches for a sloper high overhead). She empowers her fellow climbers to take the lead, and has a knack for enabling others to move past their perceived limitations. Earlier this year, Charest became an AMGA-certified ice climbing instructor, a hard-earned goal years in the making. In this conversation, we talk about her journey through the ice instructor exam, and how she balances business, play and parenthood. Charest shares her love for the global climbing community, her excitement around the continued growth of Petra Cliffs, and the importance of helping climbers make the transition from the gym to the crag. This episode is brought to you by Rab Equipment Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Andrea Charest Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
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