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Today, we're picking up right where we left off with Petch Pietrolungo—climber, AMGA certified guide, free soloist, and the local legend of Lover's Leap in California. If you missed part one of this conversation, I highly recommend heading back and starting there—it'll give you a deeper appreciation for where we're going today.In this second part, we dive into Petch's journey to becoming an AMGA-certified guide and how he launched Lover's Leap Guides back in 2003. We take a close look at stewardship—what it really means, why it matters, and how we all can contribute to protecting the places we climb, even if we're not out there building trails or replacing bolts.We also get into Petch's relationship with free soloing—not as some reckless pursuit, but as a practice that's deeply personal, calculated, and, in his case, something he attributes to saving his life. He walks us through what it takes to move through the mountains with that kind of confidence, including a mind-blowing day where he soloed 112 pitches… and how those skills and systems carry over into offering large days of climbing to his clients.Finally we close the conversation off with a deeply personal look into Petch's battle with alcoholism… how it impacted his life, and his decision to live sober and fully present moving forward----HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! For a little as $5/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!---The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. Share an episode with a friend.Post about the show on social media.Jump into Reddit threads or Mountain Project forums and tell people what you're listening to.Tag the show, tag your favorite guests, help spread the word.Please rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.----We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesPetch's IGHire Petch As A Guide
Show Notes:Angela's Links:https://alpinist007.com/ (personal website)Angela Hawse takes helm of American Mountain Guides Association board as group leans on women to foster change in guiding cultureEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today our guest is Angela Hawse.Angela was the 6th woman in the U.S. to become an IFMGA mountain guide with a successful career spanning over three decades. She's trained and examined aspiring guides for the AMGA for the past 19 years and served as the AMGA president for five. Angela's led over 30 high altitude mountaineering expeditions to the world's Greater Ranges and guided remote trips to the Arctic and Antarctic. She skied from Sweden to Norway across Lapland, reached the South Summit of Mt. Everest (500' higher than K2) and has led numerous technical all-women's ascents.She's currently on the board of the IFMGA and the 1st woman and non-European to join the Technical Commission. Angela has a Master's Degree in International Mountain Conservation, is on the POW Alliance Team and a Black Diamond athlete. In 2011 she was awarded AMGA Guide of the Year and in 2022 received the AMGA Lifetime Achievement in Guiding Award.I love that she considers herself successful in mountain guiding because she still loves the profession and is still in it for the same reason that she got into it initially. She established a lifelong love of playing in the mountains since she was a kid. Her curiosity let her explore all facets of life related to guiding, and she hardly found boredom. We talked about dealing with burnout, giving back to the communities, her AMGA work, changes in the environment and the industry in the past 30+ years, and making a guide career sustainable. I'm super inspired by all the wisdom Angela brought in. Now please enjoy this episode with Angela Hawse.Things We Talked about:Has been guiding for 3.5 decades and still going strongAngele's special sauce to keep her in the industry for this longStay curiousDiversifyMental bandwidthChildhoodPrescott college and first role modelWas a dedicated climber for many many years before thinking about guidingVarious jobs from Outward Bound, an adjunct position in Prescott, working for different guide services so on and so forthExpeditions and giving backAll women's expeditionsWhat was is like being one of few female guides back then?Ways to develop confidenceAMGA president – what happened during those yearsAMGA's DEI workAngela deeply cares about climate changeTrends and changes Angela saw in the past 3.5 decades in the mountains and in the industryBeing a guide in the US full timeWhat does Angela's work consist of now?Alpinist 007
Rick Spicer has worked with Pack Rat Outdoor Center in Fayetteville for over 25 years. During that time he has developed and led many different wilderness skills classes and programs. He taught climbing as an AMGA single pitch instructor for 15 years and for the last 10 years has focused on backcountry survival. He has worked as an instructor for Boulder Outdoor Survival School in Utah helping to lead their immersive and minimalist wilderness programs. He is the director of a backcountry adventure challenge called the Brewha Bushwhack and is a Wilderness First Responder. Additionally he runs a small business for archery accessories called Mallorn Gear. I met Rick through a mutual friend a year or two ago, and we got to hang together at a little event called Winter Strong in 2024. Rick is the real deal, a solid outdoorsman, family man, and one of my favorite humans. Find Rick at: Website: www.mallorngear.com Pack Rat: www.packratoc.com Instagram: @mallorngear Keep this podcast on the radio waves. Support our show partners: Polite But Dangerous Tools- Use discount code “bowyer” to save 10% off orders. https://politebutdangeroustools.square.site/ Vuni Gear- Use discount code “bowyer15” to save 15% off your order. https://vunigear.com/
Episode Intro: Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, Happy Wednesday, and Happy Lunar New Year of the Snake! This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today, we have Izzy Lazarus as our guest. I've known Izzy for a while, but it wasn't until last fall that I finally got to meet her in person when she came to Red Rock for her AMGA Rock Guide Exam. I knew I had to have her on the show. Izzy grew up in NYC, playing hockey, skateboarding, and finding a connection with the ocean. Her mountain pursuits began with a pre-orientation backpacking trip in the thick Vermont woods, and she's been hooked ever since. Courses in rock and ice climbing and outdoor leadership led her to work at the Colorado Outward Bound School after college. Izzy spent several years working multi-week climbing, mountaineering, backpacking, and backcountry skiing courses, both domestically and abroad. In 2017, she moved to the Tetons to work as an alpine and backcountry ski guide. Between Teton seasons, she traveled and worked in the Southwest desert region and various peaks in the Northwest and Cascades. Several years later, life took her back to Vermont to work for the UVM Outdoor Programs Dept and guide on the side. Izzy has a passion for adventure that is only surpassed by her love of education, teaching, building connections with people from around the world, and cooking! Izzy is a Certified Rock Guide, Assistant Splitboard Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide. We talked about Izzy's different transitions in life, from a big city to the great outdoors, from seasonal guiding to a full-time job. We discussed what ignited these transitions, how she managed the changes, and what she learned from her experiences. Izzy always seems to have a positive outlook on life and genuinely cares about the people around her, wanting to learn from them. Izzy's energy and positive attitude towards life are truly radiant. I had so much fun chatting with her, and I bet you'll enjoy our conversation too. Izzy's Links: Izzy's profile on AMGA website Setting the Track Things We Talked about: From a big city to the mountains The power of metaphors What guiding is about for Izzy Izzy's first mountain experience From 13 years of hockey to finding identity in the outdoors The UVM outdoor programs West versus East for example Tetons versus Vermont Outward Bound years Nudged and mentored by other amazing female guides in the Teton Valley Female representation in the guiding / climbing community Seasonal guiding versus a full time job Sustainability Information gathering Izzy loves planning but also loves spontaneity Burn outs? Next phase? Best guide tool
Show Notes: Laurie's Links: @laurie_wattclimbs https://linktr.ee/Laurie_Watt https://www.mooneymountainguides.com/ Episode Intro: Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, Happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. On the first episode of the new year, 2025, we have Laurie Watt as our guest. Laurie has just been awarded the “Best Guide of the Year” by the AMGA. Laurie fell in love with hiking and skiing in the mountains as a kid, but it wasn't until she had sent her kids off to college that she was able to fully embrace mountain life. While raising her family, she also cultivated a 32-year career in physical therapy. In 2006, she moved to Switzerland with her family for her husband's job. Living in the Alps quickly reminded Laurie of her love for adventuring in the mountains. After returning to the States in 2011, she expanded her skill set to rock and ice climbing. Once the kids were off to college, Laurie decided to make a major career change and committed to becoming a guide. Through training, mentorship, and many days out, she is progressing through the American Mountain Guides Association's rock, ice, and alpine disciplines. Laurie works full-time as a guide for Mooney Mountain Guides in New Hampshire, guiding rock climbing, ice climbing, and mountaineering. In the summers, she travels to the Pacific Northwest and guides on the glaciers of Mt. Baker. She offers women-centered programming in rock, ice, and mountaineering. In addition, Laurie also works as a climbing coach for the Holderness School Climbing Team. In this episode, we dive deep into how Laurie cultivated a great mentorship from the side of a mentee, how she challenged the common narrative on aging and used the life skills she accumulated from being a PT and a mom to enrich guiding, and how she sustained the physically demanding guiding career. Things We Talked about: Came in guiding late around age 50 had been living a “normal” life – college, job, family until the “pivotal” moment to regain the love of the mountains back to the States went straight towards Mt Washington in winter why does Laurie enjoy hardship? when was the seed of becoming a guide planted? what were the biggest doubts back then on career change? what did she need as a mentee? self awareness versus self perception deep discussion on mentorship might be late on the guiding profession but all the experiences accumulated beforehand were still valuable skills Laurie didn't think useful but turned out to be very useful in guiding? how to stay employed as a guide in Northeast taking care of a guide's body making guiding sustainable was guiding the way she thought? what kind of guiding does Laurie do? how did the family react to her career change? the narrative of aging best guide tool: listening
Show Notes:Joann's Links:Ladies Weekend Out (website)Golden State Guiding (website)Sierra Mountain Center (website)The Mountain Guides Red Rock branchJoann's instagramEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast,Happy Wednesday and Merry Christmas! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. Today, our guest is Joann Garbarini, who also goes by Jo. We worked together on a Ladies Weekend Out event back in March 2024, but it wasn't until months later that I finally got a chance to sit down with her and learn about her stories.Jo grew up on the East Coast and began climbing in The Shawangunk Mountains as a teenager. She has been hiking and rock climbing for over 20 years all around the United States, Canada, and Europe. Jo spends her time bouncing back and forth between The Eastern Sierra and Red Rock. She loves living and guiding in these places because of the access to climbing. During the warmer months, she loves climbing long alpine routes in the backcountry. As the weather gets colder and snow appears, you can find her climbing in the Owens River Gorge in Bishop or on sandstone in Red Rock.Joann is a certified Wilderness First Responder, holds an AIARE Avalanche Level 1 certificate, and has been trained by the AMGA as an Apprentice Rock Guide. Jo loves guiding clients and sharing her passion for the outdoors with them.Jo started her career path as a high school teacher and is now transitioning to holding just two jobs—a realtor and a guide. She has found a great balance between these two professions, which leaves her enough energy and time to stay healthy and enjoy her own climbing.Things We Talked about:Jo's playgrounds nowadaysBorn and Raised in the East Coast. Got into climbing in high school and was mentored by a good friend's stepdadMoved to CA looking for better weather to play in the mountainsStopped climbing for a while due to unfriendly atmosphere at the first gym she went toPicked up climbing again due to a supportive Meetup groupFrom weekend warriors to living in BishopTeacher, realtor, guide – wearing many hatsenjoy working with motivated peoplewas afraid that guiding full time might lead to burnouthow to balance between two jobs, injury prevention, personal climbing and logevitynext step to advance her careergreat experience in her AMGA Rock Guide Coursechallenges and rewards in guidingguiding is like running a business
https://femaleguidesrequested.com/podcast/ep-39-genevive-walker-stay-true/Show Notes:Genevive's Links:WebsiteInstrgramRace to Survive AlaskaFinding Balance Off the ScaleEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas. Today, our guest is Genevive Walker. I first learned her name a few years ago when she stirred up a heated discussion on route names. This discussion quickly led to real actions within the climbing community to change inappropriate route names. I was thrilled that, through a mutual friend, I could invite her to talk about her life stories on the show.Genevive Walker is a professional rock climber, rock climbing guide, and active lifestyle model with a passion for promoting diversity, equity, and inclusion in the outdoor industry. She began climbing in the Shawangunk Mountains in 2012, sparking her love for steep routes, roofs, and anything that requires kneebar trickery. After seven years in the sport, she started her career as a Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) certified by the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA). Being part of the first all-female SPI cohort in 2018 opened her eyes to the disparities and inequalities within the climbing industry and ignited her mission to build community and offer representation for BIPOC climbers. Genevive is an athlete for Mountain Hardwear, DMM, Sterling Rope, and Gnarly Nutrition. She was also an athlete on Race to Survive: Alaska along with climber Favia Dubyk.I had so much fun chatting with Genevive. In this episode, you can hear laughter from beginning to end. We talked about how Genevive found climbing and guiding, how her family views her current lifestyle, what kind of guiding excites her the most, and how she manages social media. We also touched on more serious topics such as fear and her battle with disordered eating. Now, please enjoy this delightful conversation with Genevive Walker.Things We Talked about:Before Genevive found climbingHow does Genevive's family views her current lifestyle?Climbing let Genevive find another way to enjoy lifeGenevive started as a trad climber because that was the only thing availableWhen did Genevive have the thought to become a guide?Took the first all Women's SPI course sponsored by the AMGA, Brown Girls Climb, and Flash FoxyKeep expectation low and keep surprise herselfThe guiding lifeLove to work with women and climbers of color and that's the reason she loves guidingGunks, current statusRoute name debate and a movement to change route namesIdentity as a climber, model, and guideExcitement led to more work opportunitiesEating disorderWanting to fit in?The social mediaMentorship with the ProTrackPartnership with Favia DubykFear Talk
Show Notes:Related Resources:AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSPI handbook (2024)EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk ManagementEP 29 – Everything SPI 02 – Site Selection & Group ManagementEP 34 – Everything SPI 03 – Current SPI Eval System with Andrew Megas-RussellEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! This is your host, Ting Ting, from Las Vegas, and welcome back to another episode of the Everything SPI series. Today, Spencer and I will be discussing the important topic of Teaching and Curriculum Design. Both Spencer and I are thrilled about this episode.We'll start by discussing the types of courses that can be taught utilizing single pitch terrain. Then, we'll dive into our guiding principles, RACK and FIRE. We'll use a case study to explore the “F” in FIRE, which stands for Formulate, in detail.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy!Things We Talked about:What can we teach utilizing single pitch terrain?Guiding principles – RACK (Risk management, Ask questions, Collect information, Keep it simple)FIRE Overview (Formulate, Implement, Reflect, Enhance)Formulate:Who are the students? Define ratio, prerequisites. (Potential trouble here, students' level are quite different)Course goal, objectives, outcome. Set priority.Structure/visualize the day and write/prepare lesson plansProgression and regression (make sure we have the flexibility to scale up and scale down)Divide and conquer, break the whole course into different sessions and classes. Utilize overlaps, so people practice new skills based on the foundations of learned skills. Many times less is moreHands on practice and mini evaluations – Give students ample opportunities to get hands on. Ask questions to encourage reflection and self-evaluation. Also build in mini evaluation (this will help instructors to know where students are at and when to push to the next phase).Time management (check back with priority list) Pack/gather gearClient harnesses/helmets/shoesProgram ropes (how many??), etc.
Adrian and Sam chat about what it means to be a mountain guide. From introducing the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) and International Federation of Mountain Guide Associations (IFMGA) to discussing the decades of guides who came before the AMGA path was the standard, this episode is a great starting point for those curious about the training and business side of the guiding industry.
EP 35 – Kristin Arnold & Sheldon Kerr – Break Down Barriers – Female Guides Requested PodcastKristin's & Sheldon's Links:Moxie Website: https://www.moxiemountainguides.com/The indigenous organization Moxie supports in SW CO: https://store.southernute-nsn.gov/product-category/bgcsu/All In Ice Fest: https://allinicefest.com/DEI trainings Kristin and Sheldon have completed and activists from the community that have helped to support their learning: Check Your Privilege: https://www.checkyourprivilege.co/store & Habit Queer: https://www.habitqueer.com/about-meThese Colorado Women Are Reframing What It Means to Be a Mountain Guide – 5280The Woman Who Is Pushing for Gender Equality in the Guiding World – PowderEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today we have two guests, Kristin Arnold and Sheldon Kerr, founders of Moxie Mountain Guides. I was super excited to finally pinned them down from their busy schedule to have this conversation. When I edited this episode, I paused multiple times to reflect and ask myself questions. What is a guide? What is a good guide? What are the so-called soft skills and how do they play a role in risk management? I learned so much from them and I'm so happy that they started Moxie.Both Kristin and Sheldon are IFMGA mountain guides. IFMGA stands for International Federation of Mountain Guides Association, and their certification is the highest credential attainable by a professional mountain guide. As of spring 2024, they are 2 of 17 total women IFMGA in the US. Together they created Moxie Mountain Guides to align the profession of guiding with their values. Let me share a quote from their website “We guide for good. We believe representation matters. We want the mountain to be inclusive space for women, non-binary and trans-identifying backcountry athletes – no matter your body type, race, or gender.” Moxie strives to break down the social and financial barriers to accessing high-end technical instruction.Kristin and Sheldon are also AMGA Instructor Team members. They teach AMGA mountain guide programs, including women's Rock Guide course. I heard encouraging stories from their students and was curious to learn more about their philosophy and approach. In this episode we had a deep dive into what affinity space does, why inclusion is a fundamental component of risk management, how we should advocate equality and justice, and what professionalism means to guides. You will recognize their voices very quickly when you start listening, but to give you a head start. The first person talked was Kristin. Without further ado, let's go and enjoy the Moxie ride!
Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is the third episode of the "Everything SPI" series. And yes I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today we have a guest from the AMGA office, Andrew Megas-Russell. Andrew is the AMGA Climbing Instructor Program Manager. He oversees the Single Pitch and Climbing Wall Instructor Programs.The main topic of the episode was the new evaluation system. We talked about the background of transitioning from the old system to the new system and what the AMGA is trying to accomplish with the new system. We looked at the new scoring system and what factors would impact the score. We discussed how the new system has been received by the providers and candidates, etc. We also talked about other general topics such as high standard versus minimum standard, continuing future improvements on the SPI program, interesting stats, and exciting upcoming changes.Links:Official AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSPI Program handbookEP 20 Everything SPI 01 Professionalism & Risk ManagementEP 29 Everything SPI 02 Site Selection & Group ManagementAndrew Megas-Russell Instagram https://www.instagram.com/megas_sends/What We Talked AboutAndrew's role in AMGA. Why is he relevant to SPI programsFrom the old eval system to the new eval systemOverview of the new system and major improvements of the new systemHow to interpret the score? Addition? Subtraction?How do SPI providers and SPI candidates feel about the new scoring system?What's a strong written evaluation?The different roles played by the post exam debrief and written evaluationIs there an appeal process?Is it appropriate to say that SPI is an entry-level course?Are there too many SPIs out there?Interesting stats
I'm sure Carolyn Parker could have become a household name if she had wanted. In her 20s and 30s, Carolyn was one of the most talented all-around mountain athletes in the U.S. — she was one of the first women to become an AMGA certified Rock Guide, climbed 5.12 trad at altitude
When it comes to delivering adventure, you will only go as far as your body allows. The challenge for many of us is that in our quest for adventure we can neglect our own self care.When this happens our performance can decline, our decision-making abilities can be compromised, and we are more prone to making mistakes that can lead to misadventure. This makes the ability to effectively manage self care an essential adventure skill.One person that knows this all too well is Sarah Janin. Sarah is a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic who guides split boarding, skiing, rock and alpine climbing. Sarah is on the final leg of working towards becoming the first IFMGA certified Mountain Guide who has type 1 diabetes. Based in Boulder Colorado, Sarah currently works as a full-time guide and one of the head guides at the Colorado Mountain School.As someone who didn't start rock climbing until she was in her mid-thirties, Sarah is well aware of the importance of self-care. Her dedication to self-care allowed her to pursue a guiding designation in her forties when most people start down this path in their twenties. Being diabetic, failing to practice effective self-care while leading such an active life can literally lead to fatal consequences.In this discussion, we discuss what it takes to manage our self care and why it's so hard to do it well. Sarah gives us an extremely candid account of what it takes to manage our self-care as leaders and how to manage it for others. She also gives us a unique insight into the life of someone who delivers adventure as an insulin dependent diabetic.Key TakeawaysIt takes discipline: This includes being diligent about preparing ourselves beforehand and following up with recovery such as stretching, strengthening and rehabilitative care such as physiotherapy afterwards.The importance of pacing: Sarah touched on the value of taking breaks to recharge, taking rest days, and varying activity. Taking rest days and doing different activity can keep us fresh and give different muscles a break while others get a workout.Being vigilante: This includes staying situationally aware of ourselves and the people we might be leading. This may require us to check in with people and ourselves regularly.Educating ourselves and others: On what to look for to keep everyone operating at their peak. This can add value to the overall experience. Who doesn't like to learn how to perform better?Scaling back to pace energy is not a loss, it's a win: It can allow us to perform better, enjoy what we are doing and ultimately to go farther. As the saying goes, Slow is smooth and smooth is fast.Guest BioSarah Janin is a full-time mountain guide at Colorado Mountain School located in Boulder Colorado. She is the only full-time female guide at this time and one of their head guides. Sarah became one of the first certified female splitboard guides in America this March of 2024 making history.Sarah is on the AMGA track with one more exam to complete this summer. Her goal is to become the 19th certified female American Mountain Guide. Sarah will then have to pass a ski movement test in order to become IFMGA certified which will be her focus this winter.Sarah has worked as a guide for a decade after getting to experience a few different careers before settling on her true passion. Sarah is also a type 1 insulin dependent diabetic and has been for over 43 years. She will potentially become the first diabetic certified guide this year.Guest LinksColorado Mountain School: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Follow or SubscribeDon't forget to follow the show!Share & Social Links
Miranda Oakley is an AMGA certified rock climbing guide, who set the record for being the first woman to rope solo the Nose in a day. As a Palestinian-American, she recently made headlines by hanging a political banner on the side of El Cap. We discuss this unlikely nexus between climbing and activism, and imagine how it can go right or wrong. But first, fresh off a week of climbing in America's new favorite sport crag, Kalous has some observations he wants to share. For our final bit, we're stoked to share the Salt Lake City progressive rock climber band Better in Color with their track “The Imprisoned One.” Show Notes Follow Miranda Oakley on Instagram Climbers Hang “Stop the Genocide” Banner from El Capitan Movement Lessons from Climbers With Palestine's Yosemite Banner Hang Better in Color Follow Better in Color on Instagram Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com
Show Notes:Related resources:AMGA Single Pitch Instructor PageSpencer Huffman's Instagram @shuffrocksSzu-ting Yi (Ting Ting)'s Instagram @szutingyiSPI handbook (2024)EP 20 – Everything SPI 01 – Professionalism and Risk ManagementEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting, and I'm still in my home country Taiwan. Today my dear friend and colleague Spencer Huffman returned for the Everything SPI series. We tried our best to extract and organize important nuggets from our past experiences to help single pitch instructors and whoever wants to enter the field of guiding. In this episode, we focus on Site Selection and Group Management. If you would like to check out our first episode of the series, please visit episode 20 in which we talked about Professionalism and Risk Management.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series, Everything SPI, to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights. We also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to help us improve. Now please enjoy the second episode of Everything SPI with Spencer and Ting Ting.Things We Talked about:How to plan the dayHow to actually run a climbing dayClient ScreeningCourse designCase StudyUnderstand the sitesUnderstand your clients – deliver a compelling experienceTime ManagementGroup Management… and more
Dr. Paul DeChant advises C-level healthcare executives on managing critical problems such as financial and staffing challenges by addressing the root causes of clinician burnout. Following 25 years practicing family medicine in settings as varied as the San Francisco bay area, Breckenridge Colorado, and Geisinger Health in Central Pennsylvania, he became CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation, where he led a transformation that achieved recognition for the group as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California two years in a row, while improving physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey. He received his MD from the Oregon Health Sciences University and his MBA from the University of Colorado-Denver. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.com In this episode, we chat about: :: Paul's journey from clinician to advisor :: concepts of burnout, resilience, and moral injury :: how to reduce chaos and reduce order in the healthcare workplace :: how value conflicts affect the medical system :: how COVID19 affected clinicians :: how he works with senior leadership at healthcare organizations to identify and intervene on sources of burnout :: the relevance of "Undercover Boss" to the approach Paul takes :: the impact his work has created on staff satisfaction and retention You can find Paul online here: www.pauldechantmd.com www.organizationalwellbeingsolutions.com https://www.linkedin.com/in/pauldechantmd/ To email him: paul@pauldechantmd.com ************ For more information on my book, Patient, Empower Thyself!, including the pre-order link, go to: https://www.simonandschuster.com/books/Patient-Empower-Thyself!/Claudia-Cometa/9781954676893
Show Notes:Margaret's links:Instagram https://www.instagram.com/margaret_wheeler/Meet Margaret Wheeler (AMGA video)Among Mountain Guides, This Woman Is a Rarity – Ski MagWhy IFMGA-certified guide Margaret Wheeler believes that variety makes a difference in the mountains (backcountrymagazine.com)The Ultimate Guide | Dartmouth Alumni MagazineEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting delivering this wonderful new episode from my home country Taiwan. I am very excited about today's guest, Margaret Wheeler. I still remember how amazed I was years ago, seeing her, very pregnant, teaching technical skills in an AMGA video. After I started this podcast I kept getting requests to have her on the show. I was fortunate to finally steal a couple hours from her busy life!In the guiding world, Margaret needs little introduction. She is the second U.S. woman to earn the IFMGA mountain guide title. She is an instructor of guide training for the AMGA and serves on its board of directors and as president of the organization. She is involved in avalanche education through her work as an AIARE (American Institute for Avalanche Research and Education) instructor and trainer. Right now Margaret and her husband Matt Farmer split their time between the Wood River Valley Idaho and Europe.Margaret is a wonderful story teller and her life never has a dull moment. She started chasing her brothers around the ski slopes of New England which led to a stint ski bumming in Chamonix France right after college. She bounced back and forth between the so-called real life and wild adventures and eventually found her happy true identity in mountain guiding. She also shared so much wisdom and philosophy about guiding from years of experience and her analytical approach to problem solving. She provided a viewpoint on guiding as a career, her expectations towards guide education and how the guiding community can help each other navigate through various challenges. Margaret talked specifically about how to make guiding a sustainable career and how to balance that with having a familyTime flew by quickly and I didn't even get to ask all of my questions. I hope I will soon have a chance to do another follow up interview with her. Listeners please enjoy this fantastic episode and let me know what other questions you might want to ask Margaret next time!
In the latest episode of the Uphill Athlete podcast, Alyssa and Steve welcome AMGA guide Bill Allen, to discuss guiding practices and client preparation at altitude. They provide recommendations for clients concerned about altitude, how a guide assists and assess' clients at high altitudes and how guides keep themselves safe on the mountain. They continue with common mistakes they see from clients and offer specific advice to make the best out of your high altitude mountain trip. Tune in to hear from two expert guides and learn their perspective on staying safe in the mountains.Check out more information here: https://uphillathlete.com/mountaineering-training/Or write to us at coach@uphillathlete.com You can learn more about Mountain Trip at: https://mountaintrip.com/
Tanner is a Single Pitch Instructor certified by the AMGA, American Mountain Guides Association. He currently works as a behavioral interventionist and community coach for a Colorado based group called, "REVEL" where he leads climbing and rafting trips for people with autism. He also teaches clinics at festivals like the annual Adaptive Climbing Festival, where he brings first-hand experience as a lower-limb amputee. In today's conversation we talk about the current push for more mountain guides with disabilities, and importance of properly fitted prosthetics. Tanner is also a member of the ROMP climbing team. ROMP stands for Range of Motion Project — their climbing team goes on expeditions to raise money for the nonprofit, which Tanner will tell us all about…"
Allie's links:Instagram: @tahoeallieWebsite: www.allieace.wordpress.comEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Our guest today is Allie Ace. We met in an SPI course. She told me that she had been an active listener of the show and resonated deeply with a few prior guests, especially Mia Tucholke. She mentioned that she had a very positive experience with her AMGA courses and wanted to encourage other aspirant female guides not to be afraid to take the first steps to become a guide.Originally from the east coast, Allie learned to ski in the Poconos at the age of 3. In 2010, she moved to Tahoe to pursue bigger mountains and a full time career in the ski industry. She has traveled all over the country and the world to teach skiing and coach ski racing. Allie is a USSS Level 400 Alpine Coach, Coach Developer and Alpine Official, has her PSIA Alpine Level 3, Children's Specialist 2, Freestyle Specialist 1, Resort & Divisional Trainer, and Snowboard Level 1. With her eye on steeper and deeper lines, Allie started backcountry guiding in 2020. She is an AIARE Course Instructor, has her Pro 1, and is an AMGA Apprentice Ski & Alpine Guide. Allie currently lives in Truckee, CA, works for Alpenglow Expeditions, NASTC and is the lead alpine trainer at Sugar Bowl Resort. She is working towards her avy Pro 2 and the PSIA National Team this season. When not skiing, Allie enjoys whitewater rafting, kayaking, rock climbing and yoga.Allie is very passionate about continuing education and training. She is serious about being outstanding in her job and equipping her clients and students with current and relevant knowledge. I learned so much from her. We found there are many analogies between the ski and rock disciplines. Without further ado, let's dive in this episode with Allie Ace.What We Talked About:What We Talked AboutFrom PA to CATaught ski racing and coaching in resortsHeaded to AK and got into backcountry skiingHow long did it take Allie to make the shift from resorts to mountains?Allie used to have a dream to heli ski but when she skied in the mountains in AK, she realized she didn't need a helicopterAllie had a great schedule when she was in AK, which allowed her to ski much on her own in the mountainsMoved back to Tahoe but the pandemic shut down resortsDue to the pandemic the demand for guides for backcountry skiing increased dramaticallyWould love to transition the ski racing kids to backcountry skiingThink it's really cool to equip those kids with good decision making ability in the mountainsWhat are the steps Allie took to feel comfortable guiding in the backcountry?Had great mentors in AKTook AIARE and AMGA courses, did in house training and shadowed many trips and coursesCertification in ski industry?Recreational track and pro trackHow and why did Allie start her AMGA journey?Allie had a very positive experience with the AMGAWhat's next on Allie's plate?How long is Allie's guiding season?What do people do off-season?Via Ferrata in Tahoe areaProudest momentOne big take away?
This week's episode is all about guides as a type of climbing mentor. First, we hear from Kevin, a friend of mine and an AMGA certified rock guide about some of the general benefits of hiring a guide, what to look for, and what an AMGA certification actually means in the world of climbing guides. And then from Cecil, an instructor and guide for the Seattle-based non-profit Climbers of Color. Cecil talks about the benefits of learning from a guide who not only empathizes with your life experiences but one who is intentionally teaching climbing skills for a new generation of climbers to get outside and feel empowered to do so.Resources:Climbers of ColorKevin's websiteand his IG: @kevhamrichAMGA websiteCity Rock climbing gymCirque climbing gym
Show Notes:Sarah's links:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/sarah.b.jamin/CMS guide profile: https://coloradomountainschool.com/guide/sarah-janin/Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/sarah.janin.7Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday and happy Valentine's Day. Our guest today is Sarah Janin from Boulder Colorado. A mutual friend highly recommended Sarah to me and I was so glad that I had the honor to interview her.Many things about Sarah amaze me. She grew up on a small island and immediately fell in love with mountains and snow sports when she moved to Colorado. She can soon become the first female AMGA certified splitboard guide. She is also type 1 diabetic but she manages it well and is actively pursuing another big goal of hers to become the first type 1 diabetic IFMGA guide.After many career changes, she found guiding at 35 and fell in love with it. Now at 45, Sarah appreciates that she started her guiding career later in life as she is still motivated and passionate to improve as a guide and does not feel burnt out. Right now Sarah is a Certified Rock Guide, Aspirant Splitboard Guide, Assistant Alpine Guide, Avalanche Instructor, and WFR Instructor. She works full time for Colorado Mountain School, and has been working hard to organize more women's programs. One of her goals is to continue to empower and create a more open environment for all who identify as female.I really enjoyed talking with Sarah. She emitted so much positive energy and has so much devotion to what she set her mind to do. Let's dive in and I know you will be inspired by the conversation.Things We Talked about:From an island girl to a mountain girlGrowing up in the wildernessMoved to CO and fell into with mountains and snow sportsLoved snowboardingIn order to extend winter, let's go to South AmericaCompare skiing with snowboardingSkis are better tool for guiding and the reasons…It was an accident that Sarah became a guideAt some point decided to work for a company and stayed inside but the company sent her to Boulder COSpeed up the AMGA trackBest part of guiding?Want to show people the wilderness and the importance to preserve itDid gender ever play a role in Sarah's guiding career?Has always worked in male-dominated fieldsConfidence and determination helpedHow to manage being type I diabetic?How does it feel to instruct all female groupsCreate a better environment for womenApproach to facilitate all women coursesHow to turn experience into confidenceFound guiding relatively lateMotion is lotionNext steps/goalsProudest moment
Show Notes:Meg's links:Instagram: @Meg_YinglingCounseling Website: https://www.crystalcreekcounseling.com/copy-of-longmontGuiding, Coaching and Providing SPI Courses through KMAC GuidesA Thousand Ways To Kiss The GroundEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. Happy Wednesday. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas and today's guest is Megan Yingling from Colorado.Meg came on my radar when I accidentally saw her post on Facebook. In that post, she described her experience with grieving, mental health and climbing. She mentioned that she was becoming a psychotherapist and wanted to help people who suffered similar trauma like she did before. At that moment I also recalled just seeing her name on the new SPI Provider list from an AMGA email. Bing! I wanted her on the show.So here she is,Meg (she/they) is a pre-licensed psychotherapist, AMGA certified Rock Guide, and SPI Provider based out of Estes Park, Colorado.Throughout her two decades in the sport, Meg has learned that climbing and guiding can provide the highest highs but does not come without its challenges and barriers. Meg has dedicated her career to navigating the intersection between mental health and climbing and has a deep passion in helping others achieve their goals.Meg loves climbing, running, and playful exploring in her home range of Rocky Mountain National Park.It was a fun conversation and I learned a lot. Meg shared experiences that many of us can relate to and provided great insights on dealing with fear and grief. Hope you enjoyed this conversation just like I did.Things We Talked about:The origin of Meg's last name: YinglingCurrently, where Meg resides in, works for, and doesTake root in ColoradoClimbing in ColoradoHow did Megan get into guiding?Started as a comp kid and then discovered outdoor climbingLots of “firsts” in Black CanyonWhen Meg started outside was often told she was bad at ropesRealization: rope skill was a learned skill. No one started as a rope personHow Meg bugged her mentorsHer first AMGA Rock Guide Course rocked herClimbing and mental healthDealing with fear2020 was a tough year for Meg, lots of grievingClimbing Grief FundA Thousand Ways to Kiss the Ground (A documentary)Went back to school and wanted to be a therapistCombining what she learned in school (outdoor education and psychology) and (therapy training) with guidingDual approach with coaching and guidingFramingObserving people's body languages and discovering signs for fearNervous system response explainedHow to create a safe learning environmentThe path to become an SPI ProviderProudest momentsHope listeners to take away
Show Notes:Lyra's links:Movementum WebsiteLyra's Instagram @pierotlyEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday. I'm your host Ting Ting from sunny Las Vegas. Today our guest is Lyra Pierotti.Lyra has been guiding and instructing for over half of her life. She is an AMGA Rock Guide and Alpine Guide, and has just one more exam in May of 2024 to achieve full international certification.Being a woman guide has had its challenges over the years, so Lyra has managed those additional gendered risks with additional work, developing an overlapping and supportive career as a personal trainer. She passed a similarly coveted certification from the NSCA in 2017, to become a Certified Strength and Conditioning Specialist. Lyra is a senior guide with Alpine Ascents International, a staff Instructor Trainer with AIARE, and has her own small business coaching mountain athletes, called MOVEmentum.In this episode we talked about how Lyra "stumbled" into guiding after college, how her love of science and art of movement served as a compass for her to navigate through different phases of her guiding career. After an injury almost ended her guiding career and athletic life, she persevered and regained her footings and used her knowledge to help other mountain athletes. She also shared her experience serving as a board member of the AMGA, and offered some insights for newer guides.I really enjoyed this conversation with Lyra and wished I could talk with her for another hour or two. And I know you'll feel the same way too. Things We Talked about:How Lyra "stumbled" into guidingFrom a marine biologist to a mountain guideStudy abroad led to French AlpsFound a perfect job description from school's mailing list which combined scientific research and playing outsideRealized that she didn't have to go far to find great alpine environment - Eastern SierrasBishop daysClimate changed wiped guiding work outStarted writing for a local paperAlways in back of her mind, thinking of something to augment guiding or potentially replace guidingEntering the next phase: moving from CA to WAHer single mom was a huge inspiration to LyraThe love of art flows in the familyThe next phase: bringing coaching and personal training into guidingTalking about career longevity for guiding: self care, connection with clients … etcA ill-fitted backpack on Denali almost ended her guiding lifeAfter years of rehab and self study Lyra finally gained back her footingsUsed the knowledge she gained from years of self-discovery and recovery to help other mountain athletesTalking about mental healthWhat happened when the pandemic hit?Different mentorship structuresOn the board of the AMGAHer talk at Mountaineers Leadership conferenceAnd more …
Episode Intro:Dear guests of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday and Happy New Year of 2024. This is Ting Ting from Las Vegas. I am very excited to announce a new series, Spencer Huffman and I are creating, which we call Everything SPI. SPI stands for Single Pitch Instructor and is one of the certification programs the AMGA, American Mountain Guides Association, offers.Both Spencer and I are AMGA certified Rock Guides and SPI Providers. We co-taught an SPI course back in October 2023 and found that our teaching style was quite compatible and complimentary. Therefore, we decided to do this podcast series to create supplemental material related to the SPI programs. Hopefully it will help our past and future students and potentially anyone who is thinking to enter the field of climbing instruction.Spencer and I both have deep roots in climbing education. We have over 20 years of field instructing experience and are confident that we can provide valuable insights; we also recognize that the field of climbing instruction is dynamic and we can't possibly know everything. So, if you have any questions, feedback, please reach out to us and help us improve. Thanks! And now please enjoy the very first episode of Everything SPI with Spencer and Ting Ting.
It takes a village to raise an ice festival, and for Liz Sahagún and her co-organizers, it's all hands on deck for the All In Ice Fest — which will take place from January 5th to the 7th of 2024. Entering their third year, the mission of the fest is to create a space where folks from historically marginalized communities can simply have fun ice climbing without having to feel like they're checking a box that defines their identity. To help make ice climbing more accessible, Liz, Claire, Mari, Christina, Rosie, and the rest of the team started All In to help reduce barriers to the sport — they do this by offering low-cost clinics and programs to develop as guides, cater to people of all physical abilities, and fostering a culture where folks can simply show up and feel welcome.Listen on to hear how Liz first fell in love with the mountains, her Journey to 30 ice climbing road trip, and how she's developed her self-care toolbox. Resources and links:If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here.Want to learn more about what affinity spaces are and why they are important? The AMGA helps explain in an article by Monserrat Alvarez.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page. Credits:Cover photo by Louis Arevalo.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!).If you're interested in attending or volunteering, you can register at allinicefest.com. And if you'd like to support the organization, you can donate here. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon.
In today's episode we have guest Kristi Buckley, climbing coach and AMGA single pitch instructor based out of the New River Gorger. We dive into the topic of intentions and how climbers can make intentions, how intentions help you with your session and overarching climbing goals. Ways to connect with KristiInstagram: kristi.buckleyEmail: buckleykristi@gmail.comThe Free Lifting GuideWebsite Support the show
Show Notes:Laura's links:Laura's PT Practice (website) https://realign-pt.com/Laura's Personal Instagram https://www.instagram.com/lkschmoo/Wave Tools Therapy (website) https://wavetoolstherapy.com/Wave Tools Therapy (Instagram) https://www.instagram.com/wavetoolstherapy/Episode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, welcome back. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today is another beautiful Wednesday so I'm delivering another fantastic episode with our guest Laura Schmonsees.I've been wanting to interview Laura for quite some time. She has an amazing life story and has gone through quite a few career transitions from a full time instructor and guide to a physical therapist and then to an entrepreneur. She is definitely not afraid of trying new things and she always figures out a way to make them work. She was also one of the first female AMGA certified Rock Guide when she obtained the certification in 2001. Climbing has always be one of Laura's greatest passions.In this episode, Laura talked about how her first NOLS course changed her life. How that experience inspired her to live and work in the outdoors. And after 10 years working full time for NOLS visiting and living in pristine and wild places, why she decided to transition into guiding with Jackson Hole Mountain Guides, and later what made her decide to start from ground zero and enter the physical therapy school and eventually started her company Wave Tools Therapy, educating others and selling athletic recovery products.We also discussed how to prevent injury and perform self care to make one's guiding and athletic life longer and more sustainable. There are so many insights in Laura's answers and I can't wait to share our conversations with you all.Things We Talked about:At age 19 Laura took her first NOLS course and it changed her lifeAfter the NOLS course Laura transferred to Prescott CollegeWorking for NOLS full time for 10 years (1997-2007)Why Laura loves NOLS (wild places, truly remote, and impact on people)NOLS versus guiding?NOLS has long courses and at some point, Laura wanted more groundingGuiding has shorter tripsBecame one of the first female AMGA Rock GuidesLeaving guiding was hard but it was time for Laura to transition againPhysical therapy school from the comfort of being good at something you've done for a long time to a total beginnerMountain Senses / Mountain Skills?Mentorship situation in NOLS and in JHMG (Jackson Hole Mountain Guides)Do people romanticize guiding?Currently Laura sees patients and work on her business Wave Tools Therapy to diversify her work timeWhat are the common guides' injuries?What are the strategies guides can use for injury preventionSelf care for a longer athletic lifeStart and run a businessProudest momentsOne big take away?Tolerance of uncertainty and adversity
Show Notes:Andrea's links:Andrea's personal Instagram: @vtandreaAndrea's “side hustle” on Etsy: AlpineJoy – https://www.etsy.com/shop/AlpineJoyShorts – “Another Way” Series with @mammutnaYouTube, Climbing the Rose: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ns4fwECW0qkVimeo, Finding Strength in Fragile Places: https://vimeo.com/612191876Episode Intro:Dear listeners, happy Wednesday and welcome to another episode of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. I'm your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas.Today's guest is Andrea Charest and she is very special. I met Andrea in 2007 at my very first WFR course on the east coast. I after all moved to the west coast wanting to climb longer objectives but thanks to the rise of social media, Andrea and I stayed connected.Right now Andrea co-owns Petra Cliffs Climbing Center & Mountaineering School. She is an AMGA Certified Ice Instructor, Assistant Rock Guide, and Apprentice Alpine Guide. She navigates work and life as a mother, partner, guide, ally, and Mammut Ambassador.In this episode Andrea talked about how she started her guiding career in Vermont, how she found harmony between motherhood and work, and how she regained her footing after a devastating accident almost claimed her husband, Steve's life.During her interview, Andrea expressed gratitude to the climbing community, emphasizing the immense support she's received. Andrea is humble, and resilient, competent and professional, she loves what she is doing and she is damn good at what she is doing.Now please enjoy this episode.Things We Talked about:Motherhood – planned or unplanned? Somewhere in betweenCareer? Kid? Biological clock?It's all part of the decision makingPregnancy versus climbing; impact on guidingExperience sharing how she managed to raise a kid and continue workingThe role of a nanny, family and friendsSteve's accidentThe support from the climbing communityWhat Andrea and Steve learned from Steve's accident from the perspective of a business ownerInjuries can happenHow did Andrea start her guiding careerIce versus rockThe magic of guidingThe love of the outdoorsHow's climbing in AdirondacksAndrea's experience sharing on her AMGA rock guide examHow Andrea learned from the “failed” attempt and moved onWhat's the role of ego play in climbing and in an exam?Why did Andrea pursue Ice InstructorEast coast guiding, particularly the tri-state: NY, NH, VTWork life harmonyProudest momentsWhat Andrea wants listeners to take away?Climbing in New England
As mountain athletes it's easy to get consumed by our objectives and our drive to continuously improve and get stronger can be draining. It can make us forget that one of the most meaningful parts of the mountains is the people we meet on the way, the bonds we form and the experiences shared.In this conversation we explore what drives a 25 year old who was born and raised in the flat state of Long Island New York to pursue a challenging solo ascent of Denali. Our Guest today is Alex Mitchko, an apprentice ski and alpine guide. I met Alex this past spring while climbing Denali in Alaska. During his expedition he had a 45 mph skiing accident…. and two harrowing crevasse falls. Amazingly he walked away injury free.Spending time with Alex, you could see his passion for the mountains radiating from him. But what stood out even more was his ability to connect with people. Alex brought out the best in everyone around him and is a great reminder that the people we are with are just as important as the objectives we covet.Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out.Contact us:IG: @the.climbing.majorityEmail: theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com
Hello, welcome to another episode of the Female Guides Requested Podcast. I am your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today's guest is Kat Porter also known as Kat McKittens, the queen of the Meowtain. We connected through the AMGA members' Facebook group and I scored an interview with her when she came to Red Rock for work in April.Kat is based in Maryland where her family resides but she often travels more than 6 months a year for work and play. She started her career in climbing as a competition climbing coach and had trained athletes at the national level. Her love for the outdoors brought her to guiding and her passion for high mountains led her to the pursuit of the "pin," that is, IFMGA Mountain Guide certification.Kat's energy was radiant. From the conversation, I also sensed how organized and determined she is. She told me about her research interviewing senior guides to plot her plan, her love and realizations about a career in guiding, and her superpower of falling asleep in airports and on airplanes. I had so much fun during this interview and I believe you will enjoy it too.Kat's Links:Kat on Instagram as @katmckittensTimestamps:00:00:00 – 00:04:55 – Intro. the origin of “McKittens.” Is it a real name? How did the nickname “Queen of the Meowtains” come from?00:04:55 – 00:07:47 – The start of Kat's climbing career was coaching competitive climbers. Her love of outdoors and seeking balance between inside and outside climbing leads her to guiding00:07:47 – 00:09:22 – Being sick and COVID isolation made Kat re-examine her career outlook and her story of from having 0 job to 8 jobs.00:09:22 – 00:13:11 – From having imposter syndrome to wanting to pursue the IFMGA Mountain Guide cert. She started her research by reaching out and interviewing other guides and finding ways to train.00:13:11 – 00:16:00 – From taking with senior and fellow guides, she learned about the nuisances about being a mountain guide. She also talked about the best advice she heard.00:16:00 – 00:18:58 – Talking about Kat's early mentors and her later experience reaching out to the wider guiding community.00:18:58 – 00:27:35 – Talking about her 8 jobs: coaching, assisting climbing programs that are gender queer friendly, working for an adventure company where she got to mom the moms.00:27:35 – 00:30:01 – Kat's current road map to becoming a mountain guide......for more info visit:https://femaleguidesrequested.com/podcast/ep-07-kat-mckittens-queen-of-the-meowtain/
Take a run with The Human Potential Running Series podcast. For Episode 34 HPRS owner and race director John Lacroix welcomes Jason Keith to the program. Jason is a trail and ultramarathon runner who works and volunteers his time towards public land policy with the AMGA, Access Fund, and Runners for Public Lands. In this episode, we learn about a new proposal from the USFS centered around "Cost Recovery" and how this new rule stands to shakeup trail and ultra in a HUGE way.
Dr. Paul F. DeChant, MD, MBA, FAAFP is a family physician and healthcare leader who advises C-level executives on reducing physician burnout. As CEO of the Sutter Gould Medical Foundation he led a transformation that improved physician satisfaction from the 45th to 87th percentile on AMGA's Provider Satisfaction Survey and achieved recognition for the group as the highest performing among 170 medical groups across the State of California, two years in a row. Co-author of the book, “Preventing Physician Burnout: Curing the Chaos and Returning Joy to the Practice of Medicine”, Paul speaks internationally, and blogs regularly at www.pauldechantmd.com Link to claim CME credit: https://www.surveymonkey.com/r/3DXCFW3CME credit is available for up to 3 years after the stated release dateContact CEOD@bmhcc.org if you have any questions about claiming credit.
The wrap up episode where we talk more about the actual exam. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
We talk about loss and death and how it affects us in life and guiding. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Paddy and I go on a journey about rock guiding, loss, the process, and some shared experiences. --- Send in a voice message: https://podcasters.spotify.com/pod/show/dick-chasse/message
Episode Intro:Hello and welcome to another episode of Female Guides Requested Podcast on Wednesday. This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Our guest today is Selena Pang, another Vegas local, another Asian woman. I am excited! I had so much fun chatting with Selena and dreaming together about novel possibilities of guiding. Selena grew up in Japan and started climbing in California in the 90's. According to her it was an amazing era of climbing 30 something years ago. She raised her son as a single mom by being a dedicated yoga teacher and doing business in real estates in Austin Texas. Only recently was she able to put climbing back in the center of her life. Around four years ago she started exploring guiding as one of her career choices. She said that she still had lots to figure out in terms of how far she wanted to go on her AMGA track and how much physical load she realistically wanted to handle given her age and conditions.Her current goal on guiding is to mentor newer climbers especially women and she is constantly exploring ways to integrate climbing with yoga and more importantly other deeper aspects of life. Selena asked me once "how many people have said climbing has changed their lives?" Well, quite many including me. Which means guiding can also have quite many applications besides chasing summits, advancing technical skills etc.Let's enjoy Selena's rich life experience and wisdom together.Show Notes:Mentioned Articles and Videos:Texas Lady Crushers Official WebsiteBlack Diamond Presents: Texas Lady Crushers on YouTubeSelena's Links:On Instagram @selena_pangOn Facebook Selena PangTimestamps:00:00:00 – 00:29:14 Selena is a relatively newer guide. She got her AMGA Single Pitch Instructor in 2019 and started guiding then. She started climbing in the 90s in CA but being a single mom, guiding was not a feasible career options.00:29:14 – 00:38:40 Selena was instructing for Texas Lady Crushers and taught courses for She Moves Mountains. She enjoyed working with women and mentoring newer climbers. She herself also took a few affinity courses from the AMGA.00:38:40 – 00:58:26 Selena is still figuring out what guiding is about. Being 53 and having to manage Lyme disease, Selena doesn't have the same stamina as a 20 or 30 something years old. Besides guiding is not a well-paid occupation even though the work is rewarding.00:58:26 – 01:11:13 Selena talked about her upbrings and how different cultures shaped her (including coming from Chinese heritage, growing up in Japan, and spending most of her adult life in United States.01:11:13 – 01:22:11 Selena recalled when she started climbing, it was a fringe sport so it was okay to be different. However as climbing became more main stream a minority (female, Asian, POC etc) nowadays can feel quite excluded.01:22:11 – 01:44:30 Selena brings what she learned from teaching yoga to instruct people on climbing. She also talked about future plans and vision of using climbing as a vehicle to help people connect deeper with themselves and the land.
For Andrea Charest, climbing is entwined with community. She and her husband Steve own Petra Cliffs, a climbing gym and mountaineering school in Burlington, Vermont where they also work as guides. She's volunteered much of her time over the years to Crag Vermont, a nonprofit organization dedicated to conserving, protecting and advocating for climbing access in the Green Mountain State (her's is the first face you see on the organization's website–a face that is surprisingly calm as as she reaches for a sloper high overhead). She empowers her fellow climbers to take the lead, and has a knack for enabling others to move past their perceived limitations. Earlier this year, Charest became an AMGA-certified ice climbing instructor, a hard-earned goal years in the making. In this conversation, we talk about her journey through the ice instructor exam, and how she balances business, play and parenthood. Charest shares her love for the global climbing community, her excitement around the continued growth of Petra Cliffs, and the importance of helping climbers make the transition from the gym to the crag. This episode is brought to you by Rab Equipment Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Andrea Charest Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn
Elaina is an AMGA Rock Guide, Apprentice Alpine Guide, and AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Provider Trainer as well as a Level 2 IRATA/SPRAT Rope Access Technician.She owns New River Mountain Guides and splits her time guiding in New River Gorge in summer and Red Rock Canyon in the rest of the year. She is currently a board member of the AMGA.Elaina was a mentor of mine on my way to becoming an AMGA SPI Provider. She loves teaching and is always calm and extremely patient. I first met her at one of the AMGA annual meeting and I embarrassed myself by acting like a teenage fan of a rock star . I couldn't believe how she kept her encouraging smile listening to all my twitter.I still acted like a fan when I interviewed her because she is just incredible - how she manages so many tasks is beyond me and I know she will be always one of my role models.Now let's hear Elaina's stories.Show Notes:Mentioned Articles and Videos:Almost there adventure podcast: Episode 19 Climbing with Elaina ArenzBasecamp A Climbing Magazine Podcast: the epic issue with Matt Samet, James Lucas, and Elaina ArenzSideline Attraction: Episode 20 Elaina ArenzLive of Adventures: #4 Elaina Arenz A Climbing lifeElaina's Links:FacebookInstagramNew River Mountain GuidesChapters:00:00:00 - 00:07:50 - Intro, how Elaina got into climbing and eventually did this epic road trip ending up staying in El Potrero Chico00:07:50 - 00:14:57 - El Potrero Chico days, owning and running businesses, developing routes, putting EPC on the climbing map, talking about the pros and cons of learning from and climbing with her significant other. Developed the love of finding new sport lines00:18:57 - 00:25:20 - from photos on Climbing Magazine to role models to work with role models and mentors. what early networking paved the road to later education and career00:25:20 - 00:42:35 - getting serious on guiding, taking AMGA courses/exams, finding rewards in guiding, and seeing AMGA evolved, forming a pack with Tracy Martin for quite a few AMGA courses and exams on the Rock Guide track00:42:35 - 00:48:10 - being a female in guiding industry. what are the challenges? changes seen in guiding and climbing communities.00:48:10 - 00:58:19 - support AMGA's mission, being on the board, push the scope of practice, advocate professionalism, involved in affinity programs00:58:19 - 01:11:08 - the reality of a guiding career, felt the need to diversify, started rope access work01:11:08 - end - Elaina's new hobby, short term adventure goals, how to find Elaina and closing thoughts
Tracy Martin is an AMGA certified Rock Guide, an artist, an entrepreneur, and if you want to get married in Vegas she can marry you in Red Rock Canyon. She has quite a slash career.I first met Tracy when I was shadowing an AMGA's Women's SPI course in Joshua Tree taught by her and Elaina Arenz. We three all live in Las Vegas so we car pooled in Tracy's car. Tracy knew all the secret pee spots along the drive and magically pulled out pillows and blankets from nowhere in her small car when I was dozing off. It was cold in Joshua Tree and sure enough Tracy offered me a constant stream of hand warmers also stashed somewhere in her car. I know when working with Tracy, she is always prepared and I will be taken care of.I liked Tracy right away. I adore her personality. She is kind, speaks her mind, defends her clients from crag bullies artfully, and was bold enough to be my very first guest. Thank you Tracy.Now, let's dive into Tracy's life and her amazing career.Mentioned Articles and Videos:https://amga.com/note-appreciation-millet-scholarship-recipient-tracy-martin/https://amga.com/amga-rock-guide-course-aspirant-exam-video-tracy-martin/Tracy's Links:Art Design Website: http://tracypmartin.com/Instagram (Personal)Instagram (Art Design)Instagram (Pet Portraits)Chapters:00:00:00 - 00:11:36 - Intro, Tracy's most recent art project, an overview of Tracy's guiding career in New River Gorge and Red Rock Canyon00:11:36 - 00:24:05 - Going through AMGA courses and exams00:24:05 - 00:37:50 - From cocktail waitressing to learning how to rock climb00:37:50 - 00:46:38 - Juggling different jobs to make ends meet00:46:38 - 01:01:08 - After graphic design work decreased because of the world was going digital, Tracy considered guiding again01:01:08 - 01:19:50 - Full time guide in Red Rock Canyon NV. Rewards and challenges from guiding. comparison between different types of work, namely guiding versus instructing01:19:50 - 01:32:10 - mentors and role models01:32:10 - end - Back to Tracy's artwork, outlook, and final thoughts
Crystal Rose in her own words: “I am Crystal Hudelson (she/her) a cishet (both cisgender and heterosexual) gender Black woman I am a foster youth who was brought up by the state. This gives me incredible empathy for marginalized people which is what led me to my work with Climbers of Color (CoC). I am in love with sport climbing (specifically outdoor leading). Certifications: The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) apprentice rock guide, Single Pitch Instructor All of my climb training focuses on being a solid leader outside on rock. I used to co-host Black, Indigenous, and People of Color (BIPOC - Black, Indigenous, and People of Color) climb nights for Climbers of Color at Stone Gardens Bellevue since it started there. Climbers of Color opened up a platform for people like me to connect and teach with the climbing community in the closest way to my heart: Black people, people of color, and marginalized communities. As my involvement grew, I became part of a new branch of CoC: outdoor rock climbing instruction. My partner and I developed all the instructional programs for rock at CoC and strive to make each course a welcoming, equitable, and informational experience for each participant. CoC is the entity who has mentored me through the AMGA certification process and trusts I will do a good job. They have placed a confidence in me I have known few other places and I am grateful for it. Within the BIPOC climbing community, I have seen a wide array of abilities and experience. I want you to know that we see you because we are looking. We see you and want to honor you by creating a strong climbing community who shares joy with one another. Bringing one's culture and ancestral essence into climbing is what will allow us to enter the climbing community as our whole selves. Fun facts about me: My ancestry is Haitian and Irish. By day I work as an aircraft mechanic in the avionics department on heavy jets and my partner and I are building our first climbing wall in our backyard. New episodes of the Tough Girl Podcast go live every Tuesday at 7am UK time - Subscribe so you don't miss out. To support the mission to increase the amount of female role models in the media. Sign up as a Patron - www.patreon.com/toughgirlpodcast. Thank you. Show Notes Who is Crystal Rose Her current roles What she was like as a little girl Not having the opportunity to go outside much Trying to find her place in the world Getting into rock climbing through her partner Keith Her passion for climbing and the outdoors Meeting Keith and how their relationship developed Not coming from an athletic background Enjoying the mental aspect of the challenge Managing fear and being able to believe in herself Her love for sports climbings Sport Leading Outside and why its her favourite type of climbing Her journey in getting her climbing qualifications The American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor Course Needing traditional gear and being supported by the climbing community Gear Fund Collective - IG @thegearfundcollective The challenge of finding climbing partners Managing fear while climbing The power of breath work and why it is one of the best tools you can use Getting into a mindful space Falling out of love with climbing in 2021 The need for rest and figuring out a balance Being a Co-director of Climbers of Color (CoC) which was established in 2017 Her volunteer role at Climber of Color Working full time as an airline mechanic Assisting people to become guides Driving change in the climbing world Having scholarships available Partnering with the American Alpine Institute Her passion for writing and sharing on her blog - Rock Rose Blog - Examine the intersection of climbing, Black, Indigenous, and/or People of Color, and policy. Magical moments while climbing Reflecting back on one of the hardest climbs she's ever done Not feeling worthy of being able to climb at a certain grade Climb training for sport climbing Following the Anderson Brothers Training Manual Mercedes Pollmeier - Longevity Climbing Coach IG @modusathletica Modus Athletica Website Working with Climbing Coach Emily Taylor IG @browngirlsclimbing1 Brown Girls Climbing - 1st all BIPOC girls & GNB youth pioneering adventure based-climbing from Ohlone Land. Website - https://www.tayloredfitsolutions.com/ How climbing and your everyday life can cross over Advice for women who want to start climbing and to step outside their comfort zone Look for an affinity group and finding a climbing partner who you connect with Connecting with people via the internet and social media Safety is number one and the skills will follow Building her own home climbing wall The community feel of the project Deciding to name the climbing wall - the Monolith How to connect with Crystal Rose Final words of advice Why healing isn't linear Social Media Blog - https://rockrose.blog/ Personal Instagram @aroseontherock @monolith_wall Go Fund Me - https://www.gofundme.com/f/climbing-wall-dream @rockrose.blog - Examine the intersection of climbing, Black, Indigenous, and/or People of Color, and policy. Climbers of Colour - Creating leaders of color in mountaineering and climbing. Based in Western Washington. Website: https://www.climbersofcolor.org/ IG: @climbersofcolor Facebook Group: https://www.facebook.com/groups/134722430557412/about/
I purposely picked this conversation with Anne Parmenter to kick off the year, because I need to hear so much of this right now. For someone who was told by a middle school teacher that she wasn't going to amount to much, Anne has done pretty ok for herself. She will blow you right off your feet. Literally!Anne is a Hall of Fame field hockey coach that took her team to the NCAA tournament multiple times. She's done multiple marathons, is an AMGA rock climbing instructor and ice climbing instructor, and oh, did I mention she's also a mountaineer who's climbed a bunch of 8000 meter peaks around the world - including summiting Mt. Everest in 2006?BUT - this isn't a story of some extreme, unrelatable, genetically superior athlete ticking things off a bucket list. (Although Anne's 90 year old mum is still working out every day and went snow tubing over the holidays, so maybe there is a teeny bit of genetic superiority at play here after all....)The day I spoke with her, Anne was on the brink of retiring from an almost 40-year career as a coach and educator to embark on her next act - as a full-time climbing guide with EMS in North Conway, New Hampshire. Never mind 'bucket list'; Anne is more of an opportunist who doesn't shy away from epic adventure potential that drops into her lap. Rather than using her age or job or busy life as (justifiable) reasons to put things off indefinitely, Anne cranked up her mountaineering in her 40s, summited Everest in her late 40s, and decided to lean in to more technical ice climbing in her 50s. She is truly the inspiration I thought we all could use to start the year off in the right frame of mind!Learn more about Anne, her Everest expeditions, and lots more good stuff here (and even more over at GuidesGoneWild.com!):Anne Parmenter - National Field Hockey Hall of FameAnne Parmenter on NBC CTHigh Crimes: The Fate of Everest in an Age of Greed by Michael KodasEMS Climbing GuidesAMGA - American Mountain Guides AssociationAnne Parmenter on Finding Mastery with Michael GervaisRagged Mountain Foundation (CT)Who was Fritz Wiessner?What are traprock ridges?Exum Mountain Guides (Jackson Hole, WY)Ama Dablam (Nepal)Laurie Watt on Guides Gone Wild (more climbing goodness)Kanchenjunga (India/Nepal border)Dolomites (Italy)Cuillin Ridge, Isle of Skye (Scotland, UK)Anne's essay about her ‘Summer of Fun' when she turned 60Women's Climbing Coalition ice climbing on Jan 21st & 22nd (Woodstock, NH)
Have you ever met a serial entrepreneur, or are you interested in innovation in healthcare? If so, then you want to check out this conversation with Dr. Terrell who helped to grow a company from $16M to $250M in revenue. Grace E. Terrell MD MMM is a national thought leader in health care innovation and delivery system reform, and a serial entrepreneur in population health outcomes driven through patient care model design, clinical and information integration, and value-based payment models. She is also a practicing general internist. She has served as CEO of Eventus WholeHealth, LLC., a company focused on providing holistic care to medically vulnerable adults. She is the former CEO of Cornerstone Health Care, one of the first medical groups to make the “move to value” by lowering the cost of care and improving its quality for the sickest, most vulnerable patients, the founding CEO of CHESS, a population health management company, and the former CEO of Envision Genomics, a company focused on the integration of precision medicine technology into population health frameworks for patients with rare and undiagnosed diseases. Dr. Terrell has served as vice chair of the U.S. DHHS' Physician-Focused Payment Model Technical Advisory Committee, the chairman of the board of the AMGA, is a founding member of the Oliver Wyman Health Innovation Center, the co-author of Value - Based Care and Payment Models and Reframing Contemporary Physician Leadership: We Stated as Heroes. She is currently executive in residence at Duke University School of Medicine's MMCi Program and a Senior Advisor for Oliver Wyman management consulting firm, Senscio Systems, Inc., and IKS Health. Contact Dr. Terrell Twitter: @gracet22 LInkedIn: https://www.linkedin.com/in/grace-terrell-md-5a483914/ --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/urcaringdocs/message
SummaryIn our 2 hour long conversation, we sit down with AMGA-certified guide Lindsey Hamm or so aptly named “The Hamminator”. Hamm is an AMGA-certified single-pitch instructor and a certified rock guide. She has also completed her AMGA Ice Instructor Course….Advanced Alpine Guide courses and currently… is on track to becoming the 18th female ever to receive an IFMGA pin. She has guided and climbed all around the Western US and has spent time in India and China, and at the time of this episode, launching is in the middle of a climbing trip in Pakistan. Her quick and intuitive decision-making combined with genuine laughter, and ability to be unapologetically herself is a contagious force that undoubtedly has helped establish herself as a well-respected professional in the climbing community and an inspiration to anyone who wishes to follow in her footsteps.We talk about how she found climbing, her stories of three separate ground falls that left her…uninjured, we chat about the art of soloing, and belaying, and…since she is officially the first female on the podcast, we dive into her female perspective of the climbing community, the details of her life as a female guide, and how misogyny can plague the sport, and finally, we hear about what she is currently up to in the steep rocky terrain of Pakistan. Please rate, review the show, and share this podcast with your friends. Word of mouth is one of the most powerful tools to help us out. Contact us: IG: @the.climbing.majority Email: theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.comResources:Learn more about Lindsey Hamm here:Field Journal | Written by Maggie Shafer // Photography by Luke Hallhttps://www.commonclimber.com/profile-lindsey-hamm.htmlCommon Climber Profile | Written by Enock Glidden| https://www.sidetracked.com/fieldjournal/lindsey-hamm-hyping-up-the-climbing-world/Lindsey Hamm's IG: @hamminator2017Female Empowering Climbing Groups:Iris | https://irisalpine.com/ She Moves Mountains | https://shemovesmountains.org/Flash Foxy | https://www.flashfoxy.com/She Jumps | https://www.shejumps.org/Texas Lady Crushers | https://www.texasladycrushers.com/Steph Davis | https://stephdavis.co/
In this episode, we sit down and talk with AMGA guide Joshua Reinig. I met Josh about 7 years ago when I first started climbing. His immediate willingness to share his knowledge and stoke helped shape me into the climber I am today. Throughout his climbing career, Josh has led over 6000 guided trips, established over 2000 first ascents, and is currently in the top 25 all-time contributors to Mountain Project. His deep excitement for climbing and passion for sharing it is contagious energy to everyone around him. In this 2.5-hour conversation, we talk about Josh's past and how he came to be an AMGA guide involving a freak accident that almost cost him his life. We dive deep into what it means to be a mentor, explain how to manage fear & risk, go over the ethics behind the creation of first ascents, and finally talk about Josh's most recent undertaking, the creation of the Mt. Whitney Climbing Ranch.
In this episode, we sit down with Max Lurie. Max is an AMGA-certified Rock and Alpine guide and an accomplished alpinist. We get his perspective on several topics, including risk and social media. We talk about the best and worst ways of obtaining climbing knowledge, what it's like to hire a guide, how to best prepare for an objective, and how even a professional guide gets criticism and shame in his DM's.Resources:1) Max Lurie's Websitehttps://alpinetothemax.com/2) Instagram@alpinetothemax3) The American Alpine Clubhttps://americanalpineclub.org/
Jonathan Ellsworth is in Iceland this week, skiing at Deplar Farm and being guided by AMGA-certified guide, Ian Havlick. And in between their time in the mountains, they sat down to talk about Ian's path to becoming a professional guide; the misperceptions about the profession; recommendations for how to get into guiding; they try to clear up the confusion around tipping; and more.TOPICS & TIMES:Skiing at Deplar Farm (2:27)Ian's path to becoming a professional guide (4:55)AMGA Certification (13:34)Guiding fly fishing (15:44)Recommended steps to becoming a guide (17:53)Responsibility & risk (28:11)Tipping (37:52)Guiding & family life (44:10)RELATED LINKSBecome a Blister Member / Get our Buyer's GuideSubscribe to our Gear Giveaways & NewsletterOUR OTHER PODCASTSBikes & Big IdeasOff The CouchGEAR:30 podcast See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
In the sport of climbing, we are almost always focused on what's happening on the sharp end, the leader, the art of climbing. But what we seem to miss is that without a belayer climbers are free soloing. While climbing, our ability to stay attached to the wall and the gear we place are our primary line of safety, but our belayers are the ones that in the end save our lives when we make mistakes. We feel that the art of belaying is underrepresented and feel that it needs to be talked about and given more appreciation so in this episode, we sit down with Cody Bradford, an AMGA Rock Guide, to discuss his background and thoughts on the topic of belaying.
Do you want to make a difference at your association? Get members engaged and excited about all you have to offer? Listen to how Joe Delisle, Director of Council Relations at the American Medical Group Association (AMGA), makes this happen at his association. In this episode, he walks through examples of where he's innovated with AMGA's online community, events, membership benefits, and how it's creating great results (to the tune of happier members, improved retention, higher NPS scores).
Well, here we are, folks! 20 episodes deep, 7,000 downloads across 24 countries and 400 cities, and the ‘Cast is still going strong. What a ride it has been and thanks to all of you for your support! On this week's show, we look at back at last weekend's big storm, discuss the magic of Miracle March and the importance of updating our Mindsets, and then run out of breath with the first-ever Skintrack Chat segment. I hope you enjoy! The Snowcast is supported by Mountain Trip, an AMGA-accredited guide service based out of Telluride, CO. From avalanche courses to backcountry skiing to climbing Aconcagua, check out www.mountaintrip.com for more information on how to book the trip of a lifetime. Thanks again for listening and until next time… THINK SNOW! Venmo = @Chris-Dickson
Created by Mari Feher, Hosted by Ania WiktorowiczDale Remsberg is an IFMGA and AMGA mountain guide based in Lafayette, CO. He currently serves as a technical director of the American Mountain Guides Association, which includes instructing and examining young guides. Dale prides himself in high-end skills in all the disciplines and can still be found out cruising on difficult terrains of the Canadian Rockies or Switzerland. Despite his 30 year experience, accidents still happen. Take a listen to what went wrong and how he ended up with two separate helicopter rescues under his belt. You can follow Dale on Instagram at Daleremsberg or at daleremsberg.comSend your trivia responses to rescueradiobypmr@gmail.com for a chance to win PMR swag.
The consequences of not communicating in the mountains became abundantly clear on January 22, 2022, when skiers Collin Binko and Michael Martin encountered a lone snowboarder at the base of the Sliver Couloir in Grand Teton National Park. All three had eyes on the same prize, but neither party talked to the other. What happened next has been a frequent topic of conversation in the backcountry community, and a growing concern for many heading into the high alpine. Leading off Season 6 of The Fine Line, this episode explores this issue head on, with Martin and Binko giving their account of the day. We also hear from alpinist and licensed therapist Ryan Burke about coming onto the scene and the dangerous role ego plays in the mountains. Jessica Baker, an AMGA-certified ski guide who has more than two decades of experience in the Tetons, walks us through the importance of situational awareness and why communication is so crucial for everyone's safety. This episode does not seek to expose villains or heroes, but rather to shed light on an important lesson everyone can learn from. Interviews by Matt Hansen. Editing by Melinda Binks. Thank you to Roadhouse Brewing Co. for the generous sponsorship of The Fine Line, and to KHOL 89.1 FM for the use of their studio.
On today's episode of The Firn Line, we'll get to know rock climber, big-wall soloist and AMGA certified rock climbing guide, Miranda Oakley. Growing up in Maryland, Miranda learned from a young age the values of compassion, teaching, and working with others. Born to a Palestinian mother, and an American father, Miranda grew in a family that cared deeply about social justice issues, whether it was participating in peaceful anti-war rallies, or attending meetings of the Palestine Aid Society with her mother.Later, in her teens, Miranda started rock climbing at the local gym - and it was during that time, she discovered the calling that would begin to shape her life. In college, she started a climbing club and began making her first road trips with friends. But it wasn't until she headed west in 2006, to the big walls of Yosemite Valley, that her life's vision truly came into focus.Since that time, Miranda has become a force in the climbing world. With the support of her longtime sponsor, Mountain Hardware, She's established herself as a seasoned guide with the Yosemite Mountaineering School, while simultaneously becoming one of the most prolific female trad climbers in the United States. Some of her remarkable ascents include linking Half Dome and El Cap in a day, as well as becoming the first female to rope-solo The Nose on El Cap in under 24 hours.I recently caught up with Miranda, to talk about her remarkable life journey. Our conversation begins during Miranda's college years - the formative time when her passion for climbing became the driving force in her life.•••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••••Learn more about Miranda OakleyWritten & Produced by Evan PhillipsEditing & Sound Design by Pod PeakOriginal Music by Evan PhillipsFor more episodes, check out The Firn LineCheck out our friends at Out There, a podcast that explores big questions through intimate stories outdoors.Support the Firn Line:PatreonPayPalMerchSponsors:Alaska Rock GymThe Hoarding Marmot
Many areas are currently getting hammered by snow storms, and the consequences of backcountry travel are high. So we asked Zach Guy (lead forecaster for the CBAC) to come back on to discuss some best practices and important reminders for anyone venturing out.TOPICS & TIMES:Recap of Last Season (6:49)Avalanche Demographics(10:19)Snowpack this season (16:40)Tacos & Avalanches (22:05)Current storm (23:51)Where should people tour? (29:05)Other best practices? (39:10)What's in Zach's Pack? (41:13)RELATED LINKSAvocadoJonathan's Sleep ExperimentGetting Here: Gunnison & Crested ButteBlister Summit RegistrationSubscribe to our Newsletter & Gear GiveawaysBecome a Blister Member / Get our Buyer's GuideRELATED EPISODES: BACKCOUNTRY TRAVELEp. 161: Backcountry Travel, Snow Science, & the Art of Avy ForecastingEp. 152: On Guide Books & Decision Making in the BackcountryEp. 128: Henry Munter on Avy Forecasting & Decision MakingEp. 119: Rob Coppolillo on Backcountry Travel, Education, & GearEp. 85: AMGA president, Angela HawseEp. 62: Paul Forward on Backcountry Travel & Wilderness Medicine See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Derek Branstrom originally hails from the Chicago area. After college, he moved to Denver and began his teaching career in Jefferson County Public Schools, teaching math and physical education for 19 years. During the summer, Derek instructed for Outward Bound for eight sessions and then with SROM with an emphasis in backpacking, climbing, and mountaineering. Derek received his master's in sport administration from the University of Northern Colorado. He has been teaching wilderness first aid for NOLS Wilderness Medicine since 2008. He has been the director of the Outdoor Leadership program since 2015. Branstrom lobbied to add a major in Outdoor Leadership at CCU, which came to fruition in the fall of 2017. He has taken students all across the world from trekking Kilimanjaro to backpacking in the Grand Canyon to rock climbing the granite cliffs of Vedauwoo. He is also a Wilderness First Responder through NOLS, a Leave No Trace Master Educator, Avalanche Level 2 trained with AIARE, an American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA) Single Pitch Instructor and has completed the AMGA rock guide course. In this episode, Derek and I talk about the importance of solitude, experiential learning, and how I almost died on a trip with Derek?? Listen in to find out more. For more mental health content, follow me on social media @joshkorac. If you've been liking the show, please go give the show a review/rating on Apple Podcasts and make sure to share it with your friends! --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app
Nick, owner of Beta, wanted to learn how to multi pitch climb. He'd been climbing in a local indoor gym on a pretty regular basis for about three years. He went out with his climbing partner and someone they recently met who said he'd teach them how to multi-pitch climb. The three of them went out to Clarks Canyon to learn the basics. This is where the trip goes south. Listen into this episode to hear what went wrong and what Nick learned from this incident. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and backed by the American Alpine Club. Episode sponsors include Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. I teamed up with Nick from Beta to do 3 giveaways. We'll do a giveaway every Friday for the next three weeks! Follow my instagram and facebook to learn how you can sign up! --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at www.rockytalkie.com with code SHARPEND —> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 —> 10% off Four Sigmatic product Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast! Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #PlayHardAndBeSmart #outdoorpodcast #wildernessmedicine #americanalpineclub #rockytalkie #backcountrymedicine #getoutside #beprepared #riskassessment #rockclimbing #firstaid #giveaway #AMGA
Cody has been a professional rock climber and outdoor guide for many years now. Cody is an AMGA certified rock guide, AMGA certified single pitch instructor, and AMGA SPI assistant program provider. Cody brings a wonderfully, unique perspective to help show that mental health shows up in so many different ways in our lives and in the world. In this second part of our discussion, we get to continue our discussion talking about the comparisons between accessibility in mental health care and outdoor guiding, and some of the privilege that comes with that; the use of social media with mental health and education, staying within the bounds of our expertise as professionals, and the Joker?? Check it out! September is National Suicide Prevention Month. All month, mental health advocates, prevention organizations, survivors, allies, and community members unite to promote suicide prevention awareness. If you have been having thoughts of suicide, reach out for support. The suicide prevention lifeline number is 1-800-273-8255. Message me on my social media @joshkorac if you are needing more support and I'd be more than happy to help you find your local mental health crisis center. If you are wanting to learn more about how to support those struggling with suicide, an easy resource is to go to suicidepreventionlifeline.org for more information. Make sure to check out Cody's Instagram @codybradford and check out his website: www.codybrafford.com. For anyone who is just itching to travel because of the pandemic, Cody is co-leading a climbing trip to Spain for any skill level later this year, so make sure to check that out on his website. To watch "Edgelord Movies and Men Who Love Them" referenced by Cody, follow this link: https://youtu.be/_--JOjsTHjo --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app
Cody has been a professional rock climber and outdoor guide for many years now. Cody is an AMGA certified rock guide, AMGA certified single pitch instructor, and AMGA SPI assistant program provider. Cody brings a wonderfully, unique perspective to help show that mental health shows up in so many different ways in our lives and in the world. In this first part of our discussion, we talk about Cody's history in becoming an outdoor guide, the concept of flow, suicide and how the outdoors saved Cody's life, and Bo Burnham?? September is National Suicide Prevention Month. All month, mental health advocates, prevention organizations, survivors, allies, and community members unite to promote suicide prevention awareness. If you have been having thoughts of suicide, reach out for support. The suicide prevention lifeline number is 1-800-273-8255. Message me on my social media @joshkorac if you are needing more support and I'd be more than happy to help you find your local mental health crisis center. If you are wanting to learn more about how to support those struggling with suicide, an easy resource is to go to suicidepreventionlifeline.org for more information. Make sure to check out Cody's Instagram @codybradford and check out his website: www.codybrafford.com. For anyone who is just itching to travel because of the pandemic, Cody is co-leading a climbing trip to Spain for any skill level later this year, so make sure to check that out on his website. To watch "The Red Helmet" mentioned in the show, follow this link- https://vimeo.com/46059583 --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app
It was an honor to do this video interview with three of the nine members, seven male, and two female, of the Full Circle Everest team. They hope to make history as the first Black climbing team to attempt to summit Everest. As of late 2021, there have been 10,184 summits but only eight Black climbers have stood on the top. According to the Himalayan Database, South African Sibusiso Vilane became the first Black to summit on May 26, 2003, and returned in 2005 to summit from the Tibet side, both times with UK operator with Jagged Globe. American Sophia Danenberg became the first Black female to summit on May 19, 2006, with IMG. However, they were with standard commercial teams as there has never been an all-Black only team. The team is quite diverse with several members holding a Ph.D. One, Abby Dione, is an AMGA certified climber and runs a climbing gym. The leader, Phil Henderson is a longtime NOLS leader and attempted Everest in 2012 with Conrad Anker reaching Camp 3. Two are North Face-sponsored athletes, Frederick Campbell and Manoah Ainuu. Rosemary Saal is a NOLS instructor who led the first all-Black American team to the summit of Africa's Kilimanjaro in 2018. Demond “Dom” Mullins is is a combat veteran of the Iraq War, where he served as an Armor Crewman. After service Demond became a National Spokesman for Iraq Veterans Against the War (IVAW) and worked as a United States Senate staffer on veterans health and education issues. See the entire team at their site, I spoke today with Phil, Rosemary, and Dom about the expedition. We discussed their "why", who they are trying to reach and of course, all things Everest including their acclimatization and training efforts. The Full Circle Everest team is asking for financial help at their GoFundMe site. They've reached $21,368 of their $50,0000 goal as of this podcast, September 21, 2021. Any amount will help. I donated. You can follow their progress on their site at Full Circle Everest and on Instagram Climb On! Alan Memories are Everything
Angela Hawse - President of the American Mountain Guide Association | Brought to you by Ikon Pass Episode #19 of The SnowBrains Podcast “I was one of the rescuers first on the scene to a guy who had fallen over 1000 feet. Off of Fitzroy. And he survived to tell the tale which is remarkable. But it took us three days with an international rescue effort, and it took us three days to get this kid down from where he landed. He was unconscious the entire time. It was certainly a harrowing experience where there was considerable risk to the rescuers." - Angela Hawse on The SnowBrains Podcast My guest today is Angela Hawse - the president of the American Mountain Guide Association or AMGA. Angela has over 30-years of mountain guiding experience and is a fully certified IFMGA mountain guide. Angela is the 6th of only 11 women to have ever been fully certified in the USA. In 2011, Angela was awarded the "AMGA Guide of the Year". Angela is a senior instructor team member for the AMGA and was the first woman to join their elite group of instructors in 2006. She's been on the AMGA board of directors for over 10 years. She's been the lead guide for Ice Axe Expeditions Antarctica ski trip for the past four years. Angela also guides heli-skiing for Telluride Helitrax and she guides all over the world. As a minority in a male-dominated profession, Angela does her best to mentor and encourage other women getting into the outdoors and guiding. She was a former co-owner of Chicks Climbing and Skiing and has been a key player in their work teaching women self-reliance in technical mountain sports since 2000. Angela is engaged in inclusion and diversity work with the AMGA and several of her sponsors that are making positive change in the outdoor industry. In this episode, Angela & Miles discuss what it's like to be the president of the American Mountain Guide Association (AMGA), being selected as the AMGA Guide of the Year, inclution in the mountains, guiding all over the world, heli ski guiding for Telluride Helitrax, getting fully IFMGA guide certified, climbing Mt. Everest, Avalanches, climate change, and more. Angela Hawse answers these potent questions: There are only 138 fully certified guides in the USA and only 13 of those are women. Why does the USA have so few fully certified guides as opposed to Europe and other parts of the world? What has it been like being president of the AMGA and what has it been like being president during a major crisis like COVID? What can we all do to help be more inclusive in the mountains? Have you ever been in an avalanche? What happened? What evidence of climate change have you seen in your life? What's your biggest accomplishment in life? What challenges you most intellectually on a daily basis? What's your favorite book or books? More... Please enjoy! *** This episode is brought to you by Ikon Pass: A brand-new season unlocked, the promise of adventures ahead, and endless stoke on the horizon. Now on sale, own it all with Ikon Pass. With pass options starting at only $399, adult – and exclusive spring savings – there's an adventure for every type of rider, both new to the mountain and longtime shredder. Lock in the 21/22 season with:• up to $200 savings on child passes • up to $100 in renewal discounts • and a new payment plan from as low as 0 dollars down and 0 percent APR From the second you score your pass, you've got an entire season of sweet stuff to look forward to. Explore pass options at IkonPass.com. *** If you enjoyed this podcast, please share with friends & family, and please subscribe. Follow SnowBrains: SnowBrains.com Facebook: facebook.com/snowbrains Instagram: instagram.com/snowbrains Twitter: twitter.com/snowbrains The SnowBrains Podcast Episode #19 - Angela Hawse - President of the American Mountain Guide Association | Brought to you by Ikon Pass Recorded on February 18, 2020, in Park City, UT (Miles Clark) and Ridgeway, CO (Angela Hawse). This episode was edited by Robert Wilkinson. Music by Chad Crouch Host, producer, and creator = Miles Clark.
We are ready to roll forward again with some new interviews, huzzah!! Today my guest is Wendy Eliot, formerly of Atlantic Climbing School in Bar Harbor, ME. Besides having an extremely strong tutu game - which you’ll have to go to GuidesGoneWild.com to see for yourself - Wendy is an AMGA certified Single Pitch instructor, massage therapist, health and fitness coach, outdoor educator, clinical mental health therapist in training, loving caregiver, and all-around awesome person. We cover a lot of ground in this conversation (and that’s not even taking into account the 20 odd times Wendy moved between Maine and North Carolina).We talk about the role climbing can play in empowerment of self and others, how women can sometimes be their own worst enemy, and why a good belayer is everyone’s BFF.Wendy shares some stories about being the only female climbing instructor a lot of the time - and her insights might surprise you. We also talk about the important work of Pivot Point WNC, an organization that’s close to Wendy’s heart and now benefiting from her outdoor skills and leadership.Wendy is such an inspiration, not only for all the things she’s doing out in the world, but also for her commitment to her dad and her graceful handling of the challenges one needs to handle as the caregiver for someone with dementia.I hope you’ll give Wendy a follow on Facebook, and for sure also check out Pivot Point’s amazing work.Wendy shared some awesome climbing intel and inspiration:Grant Simmons, Rock Climbs of AcadiaREEL ROCKTenacious TapeFor more 411 on the climbing hot spots we talked about, make sure to head on over to the episode page on Guides Gone Wild.com.And speaking of intel, while you’re there, make sure to sign up for our upcoming LIVE Zoom event with registered Maine Guides Jackie Stratton, Travis Clough and Cathy Hill - these new(ish) guides will be sharing stories and answering YOUR (and my!) questions on Thursday, April 29th at 7pm (EDT). We hope we see you then!
Today we’re talking about the science of snow, the art of avalanche forecasting, and what every backcountry traveler can be sending in to their local avy center to help them produce more accurate forecasts.Our guest is Zach Guy, who is the lead forecaster for the Crested Butte Avalanche Center. Zach has a master’s degree in snow science from Montana State University, he’s served as the director of the Flathead Avalanche Center in Northwest Montana; and he returned to Crested Butte in the fall of 2020 to take over as the CBAC’s lead forecaster.TOPICS & TIMESZach’s background in forecasting & snow science (5:40)Some different snowpacks in the USA (13:29)Different snowpacks in Colorado (16:50)How has avalanche forecasting evolved? (20:08)How has snow science evolved? (22:35)Inconsistencies between forecast centers (26:43)Snowpack modeling (34:41)Fracture mechanics (46:44)Zach’s forecasting process (49:52)What we all can / should submit to avy centers (57:39)Life & schedule of a forecaster (1:03:29)RELATED LINKS: BACKCOUNTRY TRAVELEp. 152: On Guide Books & Decision Making in the BackcountryEp. 128: Henry Munter on Avy Forecasting & Decision MakingEp. 119: Rob Coppolillo on Backcountry Travel, Education, & GearEp. 85: AMGA president, Angela HawseEp. 62: Paul Forward on Backcountry Travel & Wilderness Medicine See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
Caleb sits down with John Mletschnig in this episode. John has a wealth of experience having been a ski patroller in Utah and New Zealand, a heli ski guide in Alaska and Utah, and now an AMGA certified Rock and Ski Guide owning Bakcountry Pros- a guiding outfit operating in the High Uinta, Wasatch, and Oquirrh Mountains of Utah. We talk about avalanche education, the state of the guiding industry in Utah, how scarcity may affect our decision making in the backcountry, and John shares some lessons learned. Music written and performed by Chris Kaplinski. WNDR Alpine skis 10% off: FOWFFR10-4SZB7P Do note that if you order bindings with their skis, there's an automatic 10% ski & binding bundle discount that gets applied and overrides this friends and family one. So, if you are needing to order bindings with your skis, you will have to do so in a separate order unfortunately, otherwise you will only receive 10% off the skis. Good thing is shipping is free, so no additional cost there. HAGAN SKI MOUNTAINEERING 15% off with code: AvalancheHour15 https://alnk.to/6bNgvJb SOCIAL CBD 20% OFF LINK: https://www.avantlink.com/click.php?tt=ml&ti=908357&pw=282549
Episode 37 Dark Starts backcountry splitboarding podcast presents Wyoming mountain guide Izzy Lazarus. She grew up outside in the NE States, helping her lay a solid foundation to become a climber, rider and instructor. Started her AMGA education in 2015 working towards her full IFMGA certification, and picked up a few sponsors along the way. Currently works as a guide out of Jackson WY, teaching Split 101 and women’s specific courses and shredding endless powder lines in the Tetons. Izzy got her first taste of powder when a friend brought her to Cement Creek in Silverton CO. She quickly decided to make the switch from ice climbing to splitboarding, for both safety and pure pleasure. As a guide and instructor, she loves imparting knowledge on those who come to her, and we learned a thing or two. Just think of all the things we will know in 5 more years, thanks to amazing guests like her. All it took was a listen. Show links: Instagram Sponsored by: Weston Phantom Snow Industries Other: Jackson Hole Mountain Guides Alpine Ascents Backcountry Babes Special thanks to: Tahoe Lab Boards Use promo code DS15 to get 15% off all boards Groundswell Marketing Valerie Black The Artist Behind The Logo Follow us on Instagram: @ Darkstarts.podcast @ Darkstarts.media
Colin and Joe dip into the non-contemporary music realm with the union AMGA and their recent scandals. On the contemporary side, We talk TikTok V the US and Youtube creating a new music show with K pop's BlackPink. To top it all of, Colin and Joe talk about Kelly Clarkson being sued and how many puns of Clarkson's songs Colin can fit in “A Moment Like This.” This episode is brought to you “Because of You” and “Since U Been Gone” we have filled episode 18 to the brim so give it a listen! ***We Also Know San Francisco is a city not a State but hey you'll get what we mean*** Socials: Twitter: @showbizbabypod Facebook: @thatsshowbizbabypodcast Instagram: @thatsshowbizbabypodcast Email: thatsshowbizbabypodcast@gmail.com Articles Mentioned: AMGA Union Scandals: https://www.npr.org/2020/09/18/913657593/whistleblowers-allege-culture-of-secrecy-protection-of-powerful-at-singers-union Kelly Clarkson Sued by Her Management: https://variety.com/2020/music/news/kelly-clarkson-sued-management-1234786434/ BlackPink's Youtube Music Show: https://variety.com/2020/music/asia/blackpink-youtube-released-weekly-music-show-1234786937/ TikTok Ban Stopped for Now: https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/9455985/trump-tiktok-ban-stopped BTS set to Make Millions with Label's IPO: https://www.billboard.com/articles/news/9456558/bts-millions-big-hit-public#:~:text=The%20seven%20members%20of%20the,a%20valuation%20of%20%244.1%20billion. Florida And San Francisco lifting COVID restrictions on Live Music and more: https://www.billboard.com/articles/business/touring/9456440/florida-san-francisco-live-music-loosened-restrictions Learn more about your ad-choices at https://www.iheartpodcastnetwork.com
Cody began his climbing and guiding career on the sculpted meta-sandstone cliffs of the North Carolina High Country while attending Appalachian State University. After receiving a Bachelor of Science in Recreation Management in 2012 he gained his first AMGA certification as a Single Pitch Instructor. During this time, he worked as an Instructor and Climbing Specialist for Outward Bound, where he honed his signature instructing style, and also guided for a professional guide service in the area. There, teaching his students and guests on the challenging NC slabs and steep traditional lines, Cody developed educational and technical approaches to further enhance their efficiencies and enjoyment of the mountains. Traveling the country, both living and working in the greater climbing areas and mountain ranges of the US, Cody continued through the AMGA’s rock programs to eventually earn the Rock Guide certification in 2018, the highest standard for guiding rock terrain in the world. He is currently undertaking the AMGA Alpine and Ski discipline programs as his next step towards international certification. Shout outs Access Fund American Alpine Club American Mountain Guide Association @thecodybradford @57hours_app @boulderdenim Brown Girls Climb Hosts Emilie Hernandez @em.hernandez @texasladycrushers info@texasladycrushers.com Jeremy Arntz @sleepeatclimbrepeat @all_in_beta @beyondtherockpodcast
Join us on Women Lead Radio as Knight Campbell, your host of The Leading Edge: Women Pushing Boundaries in Life, Adventure and Leadership, has a conversation with Angela Hawse, IFMGA/AMGA Mountain Guide and President of the American Mountain Guide Association Board, on her experiences, and leadership insights, breaking into, and now leading, one of the most male dominated fields in the world! Angela is the 6th woman to earn her credential as an IFMGA Guide, meaning she is fully certified to guide rock climbing, skiing and mountaineering anywhere in the world! She has led dozens of high altitude expeditions, and actively gives back to her community through women's climbing organizations and environmental stewardship (literally leading initiatives to remove tons of trash from popular mountains). Interested in Learning More About Connected Women of Influence? Click Here to Be Invited as Our Special VIP & Guest to a Future Event! Interested in Becoming a Member of Our Professional Community!? Click Here to Apply for Membership!
Weston moved out west from New York in December 2007 after graduating from SUNY Cortland with a degree in Sports Management. He grew up visiting the Wind River Range in Wyoming and skiing across the West. He runs Inspired Summit Adventure company with his wife Shaun and is based in Park City, UT. JT's been around the telemark world for almost 2 decades. He's been in roles as an athlete, product tester, filmer, photographer, event organizer and more. He's currently pursuing his AMGA ski guide certification and guides here in Utah with various outfits. He also owns Vertical Integration, a media & hosting company that has provided video and photos for countless telemark projects you've seen over the years and is now creating trip experiences around the world. Learn more about Weston here: https://www.inspiredsummit.com/ Weston on Instagram Learn more about J.T. here: http://www.jtrobinson.com/ J.T. on Instagram Connect with Josh and the Freeheel Life Family Josh on Instagram and Twitter Telemark Skier Magazine on Instagram, Twitter and YouTube Freeheel Life on Instagram and Twitter Shop The Freeheel Life Telemark Shop HOW YOU CAN SUPPORT US CHECK OUT FREEHEELLIFE.COM Check out articles on TelemarkSkier.com Email Podcast@freeheellife.com
What's going on?! My name is Nick Fuentes, and I’m from San Antonio, Texas. I quit my job as a professional chef and business owner, and moved to Austin to immerse myself into the rock climbing community. I had recently discovered it and was in mad pursuit of a career in a field I knew nothing about. I was just stoked on rock climbing!! I got hired at Austin Rock Gym as an entry level desk personnel making minimum wage. There, I learned all about climbing and the technical systems involved. I began to get my feet wet with indoor instruction and knew that was what I wanted to do for a living. Shortly after I started at “ARG”, I began ticking off all the trad climbing prerequisites for the Single Pitch Instructor (SPI) course at Enchanted Rock. Fast forward 2 years, it's 2017, and I'm living out of my Jeep Wrangler somewhere in Las Vegas, Nevada. This became the stomping grounds and multi-pitch haven I would come to love. I ended up spending the next 8 months of my aimless life over there until I ran out of money after attending my SPI course with the AMGA. I spent a lot of time dialing in my systems and exploring new terrain like multi-pitch trad routes, summits, and all types of 4th and 5th class sketchy rappels, and other tantalizing summit experiences. In 2018, before leaving Las Vegas, I tested out with Instructor Elaina Arenz and received my official SPI certification from the AMGA. Inevitably, I ended up back in Texas where I now work as a climbing Instructor at a local climbing gym called Crux, I help teach the 101, top rope, and lead climbing classes. On the weekends I serve as a Single Pitch Instructor, and outdoor educator with a local non-profit organization called Explore Austin. This is a group whose main focus is getting children outdoors to participate in adventure sports. In the summer and fall seasons, I work in Colorado as a Trip Leader with Explore Austin, as well as another guide company called Outpost Wilderness Adventure (OWA). In my free time I do what I can to educate myself, train, and prepare for the next step in my career ladder ..the rigorous rock guide course. I take many trips to El Potrero Chico in Mexico (EPC) to get my big wall fill and I also enjoy flying around the to visit friends around the states for climbing adventure. I recently introduced my nephew and nieces to climbing and it has been a lot of fun. I'm always stoked to climb and I love meeting new people at the crag. I have established many profound relationships with my fellow rock climbers. What little time I do have, I enjoy relaxing and hanging with friends and family. Last but not least - keep the stoke HIGH! Shout outs Nick Fuentes Frontier Outpost AMGA Single Pitch Instructor Course Elaina Arenz Tommy Blackwell MBS Challenge 2020 Travis O'Neil - SPI Guide Hosts Emilie Hernandez @cookclimbyoga @texasladycrushers info@texasladycrushers.com Jeremy Arntz @sleepeatclimbrepeat @thicc_climbing @beyondtherockpodcast
Lindsey “The Hamminator” Hamm is an aspiring mountain guide who works for Sierra Mountain Guides out of Bishop, California. She began guiding in 2014 and has been a prominent force in the guiding community for the last six years. She is striving to achieve her International Federation Mountain Guide Association Pin (IFMGA). She has guided all around Colorado, Utah, Washington, Denali and California. She was awarded the 2016 GORE-TEX Scholarship for an AMGA course, the Rock Guide Discipline from Arc’Teryx, the 2019 McNeil-Nott Grant for her expedition back to Zanskar in August 2019, as well as the Grit and Rock Grant for 2020. Shout outs Chelsea Rude Hey Flash Foxy hamm1325@gmail.com to contact Lindsey about guiding Red Point Nutrition She Sends Collective Hueco Tanks North Mountain Guide Book Katie Lambert Molly Mitchell Hosts: Emilie Hernandez @cookclimbyoga @texasladycrushers info@texasladycrushers.com Jeremy Arntz @sleepeatclimbrepeat @thicc_climbing @beyondtherockpodcast beyondtherockpodcast@gmail.com http://www.beyondtherock.site/
Irene and I had met some time back at the summer outdoor retailer show where we quickly bonded over the copious amounts of free snacks and our high natural stoke levels. A friendship was sparked and, amongst our busy schedules, we finally found time months later to sit and record a podcast in Joshua Tree NP. Since then, we’ve filled restaurants and crags with our loud laughter, deep conversation and discovering ways to grow alongside and perhaps even at the helms of our communities. When we recorded, Irene had been in Joshua Tree for the inaugural All Women's Single Pitch Instructor course hosted by the AMGA. She had initially been invited to join as an attendee, but after careful considering of what she could gain from it vs. what an aspiring guide could, she decided to allow someone who would benefit from it take the spot. Her desire was still strong to take part, so she offered up her photography and rope access skills to capture this amazing event. Before I met Irene, I knew of her from a feature in Climbing Magazine (the famous portrait shot through the carabiner) and recall being so psyched to see another Asian-American outside at the helm of the exciting new wave of rock climbers. It was motivating and empowering to see someone that looked like me in the spaces and activities that I love and to now have this opportunity to share the ways that she elevates our communities and wild spaces is quite special to me. And to call her a friend and ally is something I’ll never take for granted. As humans we often wonder what sort of space we should occupy, what new skills we should attain to push further into our pursuits and if the scenes and activities that captivate our minds and souls will accept us. Irene has dedicated her work behind the lens to showcasing those of us who are not seen as often in certain spaces to help encourage positive interactions and inclusivity. It’s a journey of hope, of courage and bold self discovery. I hope her words encourage you to pursue that which exists in the depths of your soul with every ounce of energy and conviction you have. To fight for diversity and inclusion in the spaces and activities you love. And, on a personal note, I hope that she can help you see yourself in a more positive light, as she’s done for me. To your wildest self, be true.
There’s always an element of fear for those of us who work and recreate in the outdoors. What do you do when faced with uncertainty? How does one conquer their own fear of the unknown? After 20 plus years of guiding and living in Alaska, Brooke Edwards is no stranger to leaning into those blank spaces and finding excitement in what lies ahead. Alaska has always called to a special kind of person and Brooke is no exception. She knew she was home after her first summer season working as a lead guide for Alaska Wildland Adventures! She’s made guiding and pursuing her “life list” her full-time career, working for some of the top companies in Alaska and the world. From working as a naturalist guide, ski guiding in Japan, pursuing her AMGA certification, and starting her own travel company she’s redefining what it means to live an authentic life! In this episode of The Occupation Wild Podcast Courtney and Nick sit down with Brooke to discuss the joys of guiding, showing up in the face of fear, cultivating authenticity, overcoming imposter syndrome, and being a woman in the outdoor industry! #lifebeyond9to5 Today’s episode is brought to you by OccupationWild.com and VIIA CBD! Occupation Wild listeners can receive 20% off with the code: Wild - https://viiacbd.com/ Brooke Site: https://wildworldwanderings.com/ IG: @wildworldwanderings FB: Wild World Wanderings
On Today's podcast Josh sits down for a discussion with J.T. Robinson . J.T. has been around the telemark world for almost 2 decades. He's been in roles as an athlete, product tester, filmer, photographer, event organizer and more. He's currently pursuing his AMGA ski guide certification and guides in Utah with various outfits. He also owns and operates Vertical Integration, a media & hosting company that has provided video and photos for countless telemark projects you've seen over the years and is now creating trip experiences around the world. Learn more about J.T. here: http://www.jtrobinson.com/ J.T. on Instagram Connect with Josh and the Freeheel Life Family Josh on Instagram and Twitter Telemark Skier Magazine on Instagram, Twitter and YouTube Freeheel Life on Instagram and Twitter Shop The Freeheel Life Telemark Shop HOW YOU CAN SUPPORT US CHECK OUT FREEHEELLIFE.COM Check out articles on TelemarkSkier.com Email Podcast@freeheellife.com
Chris Brown is in human risk management and practice is set in backcountry snow. He grew up outside of Philadelphia and after graduating with a degree in Urban Design/Architecture, he moved to Utah to pursue certification with the AMGA (American Mountain Guides Association) in avalanche training. Chris works as a ski guide and avalanche/snow science professional, but his real job is helping skiers overcome their biases. He incorporates the work of Kahneman and Tversky, Richard Thaler and other great researchers into his classes and we found his intentionality in decision making noteworthy. We had a great conversation with Chris and we also want to express our gratitude to friend and colleague, Ben Granlund, for connecting us with Chris. Ben attended one of Chris’ classes and found it so engaging that he referred us to Chris. Ben was also delighted that Chris relies heavily on behavioral science and reminds us that the biggest threat to your life in avalanche country is your own decision making. After our recording stopped, we discussed Guide Services for training. If you are interested, check out AMGA (amga.com) and the American Avalanche Association: https://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/ Links Chris Brown Email: chrisbr862@gmail.com Chris Brown Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/cbskiclimb/ Ian McCammon: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xKeoF53syKw Phil Tetlock “Super Forecasters”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rV5Gicb66WA Familiarity Bias: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Familiarity_heuristic Expert Halo: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Halo_effect System 1 / System 2: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Thinking,_Fast_and_Slow Premortem: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pre-mortem Bruce Tremper: https://backcountrymagazine.com/stories/video-avalanche-expert-bruce-tremper-risk/ Bayesian Decision Making: https://wiki.lesswrong.com/wiki/Bayesian_decision_theory First Tracks: https://www.boston.com/culture/ski-guru/2012/01/31/its_all_about_f Laurence Gonzales “Deep Survival”: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QTyfvOrEm1w Wicked Learning Environments: https://pdfs.semanticscholar.org/5c5d/33b858eaf38f6a14b3f042202f1f44e04326.pdf Daniel Kahneman: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Daniel_Kahneman The Tao of Wu: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/The_Tao_of_Wu Kurt Nelson: @motivationguru Tim Houlihan: @THoulihan Musical Links Hip Hop: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hip_hop Reggae: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reggae Classical Music: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Classical_music Death Metal: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Death_metal Steel Pulse: https://steelpulse.com/ Wu Tang Clan: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PBwAxmrE194 MadLib: https://www.stonesthrow.com/madlib Gang Starr: https://www.rollingstone.com/music/music-news/gang-starr-guru-bad-name-video-909996/ John Coltrane: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EH3mb3oXCpw Marcus Miller: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1kCi-SsYD5s Stanley Clarke: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mcuigwtdzS4 Bela Fleck: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WWIfFIEeZjw Victor Wooten: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EzL4BkqmzDQ Herbie Hancock: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GHhD4PD75zY
Jerry Penso, M.D., M.B.A., is president and chief executive officer at AMGA, a trade association leading the transformation of health care in America. As a physician-executive, Dr. Penso uses his experience from the front lines as a primary care provider and from the boardroom as a C-Suite executive to direct AMGA’s advocacy, clinical, research, consulting, and membership efforts. The American Medical Group Association is a national trade association representing multispecialty medical groups and integrated systems of care that are responsible for delivering care to one in three Americans.
On This Week in Health Innovation, we dive into the AMGA's 4th Annual Risk Survey. Our guests include: Jerry Penso, MD, MBA, President/CEO at the American Medical Group Association (AMGA), a trade association that represents medical groups and other organized systems of care, including some of the nation’s largest, most influential integrated healthcare delivery systems. Dr. Penso previously served as chief medical and quality officer for AMGA and president of AMGA Foundation. Under his leadership, the impact of AMGA’s quality programs grew to improve care for 26 million patients. Chet Speed, JD, LLM,Chief Policy Officer at AMGA. Previously, Mr. Speed served as the Executive Director for Federal Government Relations for the Cleveland Clinic, where he represented the clinic before Congress and the Executive branch. Mr. Speed also served as a Senior Counsel to the U.S. Department of Health and Human Services Office of Counsel to the Inspector General in Washington, D.C. In this role, he negotiated corporate integrity agreements and participated in the global settlements of federal False Claims Act cases. Join us! ==##==
Cody Bradford began his climbing and guiding career on the sculpted meta-sandstone cliffs of the North Carolina High Country while attending Appalachian State University. After receiving a Bachelor of Science in Recreation Management in 2012 he gained his first AMGA certification as a Single Pitch Instructor. During this time, he worked as an Instructor and Climbing Specialist for Outward Bound where he honed his signature instructing style and also guided for a professional guide service in the area. Here, teaching his students and guests on the challenging NC slabs and steep traditional lines, Cody developed educational and technical approaches to further enhance their efficiencies and enjoyment of the mountains.Traveling the country, both living and working in the greater climbing areas and mountain ranges of the US, Cody continued through the AMGA’s rock programs to eventually earn the Rock Guide certification in 2018, the highest standard for guiding rock terrain in the world. He is currently undertaking the AMGA Alpine discipline programs as his next step towards international certification.Cody is the host of #techtiptuesdays where he breaks down techniques to move more efficiently and safely while climbing in the mountains. Check it out on instagram @thecodybradford. Checkout Cody’s website codybradford.com
Cody Bradford began his climbing and guiding career on the sculpted meta-sandstone cliffs of the North Carolina High Country while attending Appalachian State University. After receiving a Bachelor of Science in Recreation Management in 2012 he gained his first AMGA certification as a Single Pitch Instructor. During this time, he worked as an Instructor and Climbing Specialist for Outward Bound where he honed his signature instructing style and also guided for a professional guide service in the area. Here, teaching his students and guests on the challenging NC slabs and steep traditional lines, Cody developed educational and technical approaches to further enhance their efficiencies and enjoyment of the mountains.Traveling the country, both living and working in the greater climbing areas and mountain ranges of the US, Cody continued through the AMGA’s rock programs to eventually earn the Rock Guide certification in 2018, the highest standard for guiding rock terrain in the world. He is currently undertaking the AMGA Alpine discipline programs as his next step towards international certification.Cody is the host of #techtiptuesdays where he breaks down techniques to move more efficiently and safely while climbing in the mountains. Check it out on instagram @thecodybradford. Checkout Cody’s website codybradford.com
Angela Hawse is the president of the American Mountain Guides Association (AMGA), and is certified to the highest international mountain guide standards. We talk to her about how she got into guiding; the various roles she has taken on; the experiences that drove Angela’s career; what advice she would offer to aspiring guides; how guiding culture is changing, and more.TOPICS & TIMES:How Jonathan and Angela first met (2:52)Angela’s wide-ranging professional titles (6:48)What led you to guiding? (11:40)What advice would you give to aspiring guides? (21:18)Differences between the AMGA and the IFMGA? (25:35)Your favorite guiding experience? (30:52)Most harrowing guiding experience? (34:32)Being a female in this industry (35:49)Angela’s motivations for joining POW Climb (45:10) See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.
On This Week in Accountable Care, Dr. Jerry Penso, President and CEO of the American Medical Group Assocation joins National ACO co-founders Andre Berger, MD and Alex Foxman, MD for a deep dive into the ACO sector. We'll expore the general market for ACOs and AMGA insights into progress, best practices and the road ahead. Dr. Penso is president and chief executive officer at AMGA (the American Medical Group Association), a trade association that represents medical groups and other organized systems of care, including some of the nation’s largest, most influential integrated healthcare delivery systems. Dr. Penso previously served as chief medical and quality officer for AMGA and president of AMGA Foundation. In this role, Dr. Penso led best-practices learning collaboratives for member groups, research and benchmarking programs, and AMGA’s national campaigns addressing hypertension and diabetes. Under his leadership, the impact of AMGA’s quality programs grew to improve care for 26 million patients. More about AMGA At AMGA, we’re leading the transformation of healthcare in America because we believe in the power of healthier communities. By working alongside top professionals in our field and acting as their voice in the public sphere, we’re paving the way for medical groups and integrated systems of care to deliver the next level of high-performance health. Join us!
In this episode, Fred Horton, President of AMGA Consulting, discusses the results of the AMGA 2017 Medical Group Operations and Finance Survey. Learn how to listen to The Hospital Finance Podcast on your mobile device. Mike Passanante: Hi, this is Mike Passanante. And welcome back to the Hospital Finance Podcast. Today, I’m joined by Fred Horton who is President of Read More
Sheldon Kerr is a AMGA certified Ski Guide and making her way toward full IFMGA/AMGA certification. She currently works in the Tetons for Exum. Sheldon is a prominent voice in the fight for gender equity in the guiding profession and has been a strong advocate for increasing the diversity and inclusivity in the mountains. In this episode we discuss the challenges that women and other underrepresented groups face in the guiding profession and talk about some of the solutions that are currently underway.
In the part 2 of the fourth episode, we finish our conversation with Kirk about how you may fit into the new paradigm of avalanche education. We then talk to IFMGA and heli ski guide Jonathon Spitzer. Jonathon also works as an instructor for AIARE and the AMGA, and brings some perspective about how the upcoming Pro/Rec split may benefit the professional guiding community.
On the Wednesday, July 17th, 2013 broadcast at 12 Noon Pacific/3PM Eastern our special guests are Jim Hansen, VP of Lumeris 's Accountable Delivery System Institute and Dr Jerry Penso Chief Medical and Quality Officer the American Medical Group Associaton (AMGA). We'll discuss the recent announcement by the Centers for Medicare and Medicaid of the results from the first year of participation in the Pioneer ACO program. Depending on who you speak with, there is a different take on how to interpret the movement within and out of the Pioneer program. For background see: Pioneers Take Arrows While Settlers’ Get the Land?’at @ACOwatch. Join us for a timely and informative exchange on this important development in the roll out of the Affordable Care Act. For additional context, check out the 'This Week in Health Innovation with Michael Millenson'. Join us!
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