Talking Time With Tim

Tim talks with world renowned Patek Philippe scholar, collector, and dealer John Reardon about Patek Philippe calendar watches. From the era of pocket watches to the present day, this talk covers the evolution of Patek Philippe calendar, annual calendar, and perpetual calendar watches. Highly collectible vintage Patek series including the 1526, the 3448, and 3940 receive in-depth treatments drawn from the combined experience of our two hosts. Modern Patek Philippe calendar watches including the 5050, 5035, 5396, and 5236 are discussed for their landmark innovations and relevance to future collectors. This is the ultimate in-depth dive into Patek Philippe calendar watches.

Noted watch collector and style leader William Massena reflects on four decades of collecting watches as well as his recent career as a design coordinator. From early encounters with Seiko and Rolex to F.P. Journe and De Bethune, William leads Tim on a journey that starts with childhood and ends with deliveries to clients. As the founder of Massena LAB, William works with the world's top artisans and artists to create watches with irreverent humor and classical beauty. Anyone who's ever fantasized about creating a watch brand will enjoy listening to this masterclass from an entrepreneur who is living the dream.

From Patek Philippe to Blancpain and beyond, even grail watches are imperfect. In today's episode, Tim offers constructive criticism of his favorite watches from major luxury brands. Make no mistake; these are Tim's major goal watches, and their flaws do not diminish their desirability. But honesty is the best policy, and a critical perspective can be key to weeding out sound and unsound choices. Watch collectors seeking to pare down their purchase targets can ride along with Tim and apply his critical eye for evaluating which goal watches are keepers and discards.

Since its resurrection in 2015, independent watch brand Czapek & Cie. has gained a reputation for quality, irreverence, and transparency. Brand CEO Xavier de Roquemaurel's personality, values, and business approach account for much of Czapek's approachable public image. Tim Mosso shares an hour with Mr. Roquemaurel to discuss the company's origins, new factory, future ambitions, and the unqualified success of the Antarctique sports watch collection. Many 2022 novelties and 2023 product plans feature prominently, and Czapek's open disclosure of its etablissage approach to watchmaking highlight Mr. Roquemaurel's pragmatic product development process. This episode provides insight into the creation and operation of a watch brand that produces hundreds – not thousands – of watches per year.

Tim opens the second season of his podcast with an in-depth interview of author and economics professor Brendan Cunningham, PhD. Dr. Cunningham is a professor of economics at Eastern Connecticut State University, a former instructor at the U.S. Naval Academy, and a former advisor to the U.S. Federal Trade Commission. Tim and Dr. Cunningham discuss his first book about horology, “Selling the Crown: The Secret History of Marketing Rolex.” This episode contains an overview of the book, analysis of Rolex marketing strategies in the 1940s, 50s, and 60s, and insights into the colorful characters who manned Rolex's ad agency during this period. Dr. Cunningham also writes the “Horolonomics” blog with an economist's perspective on today's luxury watch marketplace.

Tim interviews Dan Royter, a New York-based independent watchmaker and creator of Royter watches. Dan is living proof that a dedicated watch enthusiast can become a sophisticated watchmaker and component finisher without any formal watch school or apprenticeship. Entirely self-taught, Dan is a remarkable success story and an inspiration for rank-and-file watch enthusiasts.

Tim interviews Aren Bazerkanian, creator of Havid Nagan luxury watches. Aren entered the watch industry working for F.P. Journe while refining his tastes as a collector. For 2022, Aren has launched Havid Nagan, an independent American luxury watch brand with products designed in the U.S.A and constructed in Switzerland by Schwarz-Etienne. Any collector who has dreamed of creating his own brand will enjoy Aren's account of taking a watch from initial dreams to reality on the wrist.

“After four years of wearing only his Sinn, Tim is in the market for his next watch. From the humble Ball Engineer II to the heights of De Bethune and Patek Philippe, almost every style and price point of watch is in the running to make the cut. Join Tim as he window shops for his next luxury watch and shares his thoughts on the candidates.”

Join Tim for a myth-busting discussion of luxury watch misconceptions and why they're as accurate as a broken watch. From legends about depreciation to rarity and the supposed dearth of young watch enthusiasts, Tim takes collectors on a journey through the biggest misconceptions in the watch hobby.

Tim explores the most expensive Omega watches. From the Speedmaster to the Seamaster and beyond, Omega makes a number of unexpected artisanal, complicated, precious metal, and limited edition watches. Tourbillon watches, lapis lazuli dials, and indestructible Richard Mille-rivaling sports watches offer quality and exclusivity that belie Omega's mass-market image.

Tim takes listeners on a tour of the coolest versions of uncool Rolex watches. From full platinum Day-Dates to turquoise dials and underappreciated vintage Rolex Beta 21s, this is a celebration of Rolex beyond the Submariner, Daytona, and GMT.

Schwarz-Etienne CEO Mauro Egermini joins Tim to discuss the past, present, and future of the independent manufacture from La Chaux-de-Fonds. From the 2021 Roma Synergy collaboration with Kari Voutilainen to arrangements for assuring rapid return of watches from service, this far-ranging interview illuminates a brand that only recently shifted from contract manufacturing to selling watches in its own right

As the new model year dawns, Tim starts 2022 by recalling past watch debuts that surprised, impressed, or compelled him to make a purchase. This podcast includes watches from Bulgari, Gerald Genta, Hublot, Jaeger-LeCoultre, Romain Jerome, Schwarz-Etienne, and Tudor.

Tim shares his favorite watches of 2021. From Rolex to De Bethune and $2,930 to almost $400,000, this list contains something for every watch enthusiast to love.

Tim reflects on the highlights of Dubai Watch Week 2021. From shock-resistant tourbillon watches to micro-sized independent brands to world-class movement finishing, Dubai had it all. Learn more about the stars of the show in this far-ranging account.

Tim opens with critiques of new luxury sports watches from Girard Perregaux, Romain Gauthier, and Lang & Heyne. The main topic of the ‘cast is a discussion of “copycat” watches and the models they emulated. From the Vacheron Constantin “Thunderbird” Rolex Turn-o-Graph duplicate to the 2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport's homage to the Rolex Daytona, Tim explores famous watch models that shamelessly copped the style of even more famous watches.

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Tim talks late 2021 watch debuts from Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre, and Omega while counting a list of the worst reasons to buy a watch. From peer pressure to “investment” value to dealer-mandated “package buys” and more, Tim counts all the ways watch collectors can go wrong when buying a watch in 2021.

Tim discusses the GPHG 2021, the nominated watches, the rules of the competition, and his selections for the win in the categories “Men's,” “Men's Complication,” “Mechanical Exception,” “Iconic,” and “Tourbillon.” Tim also discusses the rules for each category, the previous year's winners in these categories, and common GPHG questions such as “where's Rolex?”

In the space of just seven years, autodidact renaissance watchmaker Joshua Shapiro has emerged as one of America's preeminent watchmakers and guillocheurs. While known for his exceptional rose lathe and straight-line engine turns, blowtorch-silvered Breguet-inspired dials, and collaborations with other watchmakers, Joshua is preparing to construct his own watch in its entirety. From cases to dials to an American-made tourbillon regulator, JN Shapiro watches is an independent watch brand brimming with ambition and ability. Learn about its past, present, and future in this podcast by Tim Mosso.

Tim shares an extended discussion with master watchmaker and clockmaker, David Walter. David is both a contemporary and a peer of watchmaking greats George Daniels, Derek Pratt, and Anthony Randall. Having started his career in the remote reaches of Perth, Australia, David took his skills to Europe before settling in Southern California. From Peto cross detent escapements to double pendulum resonance clocks to full-platinum wristwatch movements, David Walter has done it all. Learn about his latest projects in this far ranging conversation about modern horology.

Tim interviews Garrick Watchmakers founder David Brailsford in a wide ranging discussion of UK watchmaking and entrepreneurial challenges overcome. Garrick watches including the new S4 are discussed at length along with a detailed overview of the production process. David highlights his inspirations within traditional British watchmaking and beyond. Also an advocate for watchmaking indies, David relates his efforts to popularize independent horology through The Watchmakers Club.

Tim details his hypothetical Ulysse Nardin collection and picks his favorite models from the wackiest watch brand in high horology. History, features, and used price ranges of all UN watches mentioned are included.

Armand Billard of Sartory Billard watches joins Tim for a discussion of the challenges and rewards of creating an independent watch brand. Since 2015, Frenchman Billard has turned his skills as an industrial designer towards the creation of accessibly priced mechanical watches. Now a craftsman as well as a designer, Billard offers full customization of the roughly 70-80 watches that he produces each year. If you ever wanted to create an independent watch brand, this is the podcast for you!

Tim Mosso joins Daniel Sum of “The Waiting List” podcast for a far-ranging discussion of watch trends. From collecting vintage watches to finding value in an overheated market, this epic-length podcast has it all.

Tim Mosso and Lung Lung Thun of ‘The Waiting List' podcast discuss the best and worst watch trends of 2021, the current bubble in the luxury watch market, and the generational shift underway among watch collectors.

Tim Mosso and Quill & Pad's Elizabeth Doerr discuss their favorite new watches of 2021, the brilliance of Alain Silberstein, and the democratization of independent watch brand products.

Tim discusses his views on the Apple Watch and why he no longer believes that the famous smart watch is a “watch.” Apple may have built the world's most popular wearable device, but it's not a watch at heart. In addition, Tim considers which independent watch brands could become the next Montres Journe (F.P. Journe).

Watch media veteran and Quill & Pad (www.quillandpad.com) proprietor Elizabeth Doerr guest stars on this episode of the Tim Mosso podcast. Elizabeth interviews Tim about his history as a collector, his experience with the Jaeger LeCoultre Reverso, and his views of the 90th anniversary Reverso. Elizabeth and Tim discuss the Reverso series at length and reflect on their favorite models from its 90-year history.

Tim interviews industrial artist and luxury watch creator, Jason Wilbur. Jason graduated from the Art Center College of Design and worked as an industrial designer with Porsche Design and Honda. Following a decade at Honda Advanced Design, Jason designed his first luxury watch, the celebrated 2010 Devon Tread 1. Now a wristwatch entrepreneur in his own right, Jason talks to Tim about the release of his first mechanical watch, the Jason Wilbur Automatic Launch Edition.

A discussion of watches, watchmaking, and style with Tim and Bart Grönefeld, the horological brothers of The Netherlands. This recording covers the brothers' early years in a watchmaking family, formal training, and their development of today's Grönefeld watches. Hobbies including cars and watch collecting also are mentioned.

Tim introduces watch collector and car enthusiast, Blake Machado. Blake is the co-founder and principal of Cars & Bids, an online auction platform for collectible cars of the 80s, 90s, and 2000s. As a watch enthusiast since childhood, Blake can recall his many grail and milestone luxury watches since long before he was able to drive. Blake describes buying his dream car – a Ferrari 430 Scuderia – and planning to buy his grail watch, the second generation Vacheron Constantin Overseas Self Winding.

Tim welcomes watch collector, car expert, and luxury asset specialist Drew Coblitz to the show. Drew explains the current explosion of prices for all luxuries from digital art to supercars to watches. Brands including Porsche, Ferrari, McLaren, Lamborghini, Richard Mille, Rolex, and Omega are discussed.

Romain Gauthier of Romain Gauthier watches discusses starting an independent watch brand, learning from Philippe Dufour, designing the Logical One, and much more. This is a solo sit-down with the engineer-entrepreneur whose watches are famous for uncompromising finish and technical virtuosity.

Tim talks with Devon Works founder, Scott Devon, about designing and building luxury watches. As the creator of the Devon Tread series of luxury watches and the Devon GTX supercar, entrepreneur Scott Devon lives the life many watch collectors imagine. From his pioneering GPHG nomination – the first for an American watch – to associations with Marvel's Avengers and Disney's Star Wars, Devon – a grocery magnate – has been an unlikely success story for American watchmaking. Scott talks about building watches, brushes with movie stars, ambitions to join forces with Big Tech, and his plans for an upcoming smart watch.

In this feature, Tim explores the reality that luxury watches rarely achieve investment status. While fun to own and collect, watches are -- at best -- a limited store of value. Conventional stocks, bonds, and professionally managed investment vehicles almost always come out ahead when compared to the long-term performance of luxury watches. However, depreciation is the best friend of the savvy watch collector, and buying used watches is the best way to avoid depreciation, enjoy more watch than you could afford new, and buy a watch at close to its sustainable market value.

Episode 11 - Tim recounts times that watch brands including Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Audemars Piguet reduced the material or artisanal qualities of their watches in the interest of cost cutting.

Max Büsser On Watches; The Watch Business: Cars & Passions

“Grail Watches”: Tim Recalls All of His Grail Watches Through the Years

Tim Mosso and Josh Thanos have been brothers-in-arms since WatchBox's formative “Watch-u-Want” days. Herein, they discuss Josh's experience buying, selling, and collecting luxury watches. From SevenFriday to Rolex and Audemars Piguet, Josh's collection spans watches of all styles, brands, and prices. If you wonder what it's like to build a career in the luxury watch industry, this podcast offers fifteen combined years of firsthand experience.

Tim reviews future collectible luxury watches from the 1990s! 1990s watches are the next frontier for watch collectors seeking value in vintage watches. This cast discusses the IWC Grande Complication 3770, the IWC Portuguese 125th Anniversary 5441, the Patek Philippe Neptune 5080 and 5085, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Automatic 42040 and 42042, and the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel 25720. Price ranges for examples of each watch model are covered, and all watches are addressed with respect to their historic significance.

This feature concerns a favorite topic of watch collector discussion boards: controversy. And when controversy arises, the watch brands Rolex, Hublot, and love-it-or-leave-it apex independent Greubel Forsey are never far. Here, I present an overview of all three watchmakers, why they inspire strong emotions, and why the positive case for all three outweighs the skepticism.

This podcast discusses the controversial 2021 Zenith Chronomaster Sport while putting the new chronograph in a historic perspective. There's no denying that Zenith's design team drew heavily on the current Rolex Daytona 116500LN. But this borrowing practice has a long history in Swiss watch design; the 1977 Vacheron Constantin 222 sports watch illustrates how a derivative design can become appreciated in its own right. Today's episode also explores the difference between “independent” watchmakers such as Rolex and the “indies” such as F.P. Journe that are generally identified with modern independent horology.

Laurent Ferrier is an independent watch manufacturer with gorgeous products and stalled momentum. After a meteoric rise from 2010 to 2016, the brand has lost some of its luster in recent years. Tim explores the brief history of the brand, its products, and its fortunes. This discussion explores the strengths and weaknesses of Laurent Ferrier the company and Laurent Ferrier watches. The Laurent Ferrier Double Spiral Tourbillon, Galet Micro-Rotor, Bridge One, Galet Traveller, and many others are discussed in detail. Tim considers solutions for reviving the early 2010s excitement and watch collector enthusiasm behind the Laurent Ferrier brand.

Tim discusses when you should sell a watch from your collection; what will 2021 bring to the Rolex collection; his thoughts on potential redesigns of the Daytona, the Milgauss, and the Yacht-Master II; Tim discusses why you shouldn't buy a compromise watch instead of saving for your primary goal; preparing for the 90th anniversary of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso; reviewing the problems and potential of A. Lange & Sohne watches.

Tim shares his three favorite Breitling Navitimer models (Twin Sixty, Spatiographe, 1990s Cosmonaute manual-wind/Lemania with display caseback); his favorite current Navitimer, the 1959 reference 806 in platinum; provides a market report for the favorites; his narrative review of the primary types of Breitling Navitimer owners.

Tim introduces his new luxury watch podcast series for watch enthusiasts. High luxury independent watchmaker Marco Lang's first solo-practice watch, the Zweigesicht-1, is discussed and analyzed in detail. Value-packed dive watches also feature prominently as Tim reviews four bargain alternatives to the newly redesigned Rolex Submariner. Divers from Oris, Sinn, Doxa, and Ball watch offer Rolex-level fun for Tudor-level money — or less! Discover them all in this inaugural Tim Mosso podcast.