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Det är ingen nyhet att den kreativa sidan av modefältet domineras av vita människor och att dess utveckling präglats av att främst vita människor haft tillträde till den. Just nu pågår många initiativ för att öka mångfalden och inkluderingen i olika modeföretag och modeskolor. Men man behöver också berätta andra historier om mode och vidga idén om vad mode är. I dagens avsnitt står social hållbarhet i fokus, där mångfald och inkludering är en självklar del. Vi tar avstamp i en utställning som gick på Somerset House i London under hösten och vintern, The Missing Thread: Untold Stories of Black British Fashion, som på ett fantastiskt sätt berättade historien om svart brittiskt mode genom fyra teman: home, tailoring, performance och nightlife. Varje tema inbegrep, i vid bemärkelse, rum där svart brittiskt mode och design dels hämtat inspiration, dels utvecklats och blomstrat på helt egna villkor. Historien, som återberättas i podden, är oerhört gripande men också djupt fascinerande och utställningen var i sig en hyllning och ett erkännande till en uppsjö svarta brittiska designers som tidigare inte fått den uppmärksamhet de förtjänar. Vi talar om strategier man tar till när ens karriär inte tar fart på samma sätt som den vita normen, om hur rasism kom till uttryck på 80- och 90-talen, om Joe Casely-Hayford – den förbisedda designern som till slut fick ett postumt erkännande av British Fashion Council i höstas, vi pratar om intersektionalitet, om anpassning, om vad Morgan Stanley som var stolt huvudsponsor av utställningen kunde lära sig av den, om korsbefruktning mellan mode, konst, musik, nagelbarer, med mera, om kulturell appropriering och autenticitet. Vi samtalar med utställningens curator, Andrew Ibi, forskare och lärare vid Liverpool John Moores University där han leder modeinstitutionen, men också själv designer, och DJ och entreprenör. Vi träffar också Patricia Saunders, professor i engelska vid University of Miami, specialiserad inom karibiska studier och författare till boken Buyers Beware och Donna Hope, professor i kultur, samhälle och genus vid University of West Indies i Jamaica, och också hon specialiserad inom karibiska studier. Donna Hope är författare till boken Dancehall Queen. Designers som omtalas i avsnittet är bland andra Joe Casely-Hayford, Ozwald Boateng, Bruce Oldfield, Chris Ofili, Eddie Chambers, Ninivah Khomo, Monisola Omotos, Maud Sulter, Faisal Abdu'Allah, Christine Checinska, Keith Piper, Nicholas Daley, Bianca Saunders och Saul Nash. Programmet leds av Jenny Lantz, docent i företagsekonomi med inriktning på kulturekonomi vid Handelshögskolan i Stockholm. Intervjuerna med Patricia Saunders och Donna Hope görs av modejournalisten Sofia Hedström de Leo. Bakom podden står också forskaren Tina Sendlhofer, Stockholm Environment Institute. Tack för att du lyssnar! Följ oss gärna på Instagram.
House Guest by Country & Town House | Interior Designer Interviews
In the final House Guest episode of 2023, Carole Annett chats to fashion designer Ozwald Boateng, who is dipping his toe into the world of interiors after nearly three decades of inspirational work in menswear. Tune in for more.
When you consider the history of the jumpsuit, sows ears and silk purses come to mind. After all, how did an unassuming item of workwear became haute couture?The jumpsuit's popularity has remained, as workwear and fashion statement, both cygnet and swan. Most recently it's cropped up in uniforms designed by Ozwald Boateng for British Airways cabin crew, providing an option for a gender-diverse workforce. The jumpsuit therefore highlights the alchemy of design, turning utility into stylistic gold, and showing that silk purses really can be made from sow's ears.
When you consider the history of the jumpsuit, sows ears and silk purses come to mind. After all, how did an unassuming item of workwear became haute couture? The jumpsuit started out, as the name implies, as a one-piece garment designed for parachutists. It had to be form-fitting with minimal openings to stop the force of air ripping it open when hurtling to the ground. It was based on aviator suits, created for the new aeroplanes.During the First World War, when fighter planes were first used, British pilots often wore a Sidcot suit. Most recently it's cropped up in uniforms designed by Ozwald Boateng for British Airways cabin crew, providing an option for a gender-diverse workforce.The jumpsuit therefore highlights the alchemy of design, turning utility into stylistic gold, and showing that silk purses really can be made from sow's ears.
Ozwald Boateng is a self-taught fashion designer who has had a profound impact on fashion worldwide for three decades. The Black Panther, The Matrix, and Bad Boys, are among the few movies for which Ozwald designed costumes. In this interview, Ozwald talks about battling racism, childhood, work ambition, and his relationships.
In this episode Pope talks about lawyers, Ozwald Boateng, Josh Thomas and cheese sheets. // Please pre-order 'I'll Die After Bingo' here: https://www.penguin.co.uk/authors/283398/pope-lonergan.html --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app
How can U just leave me standing? ...in search of Prince Rogers Nelson.
Part 3 of this interview features music from the Beverley Knight album Affirmation (released in June 2004), including short excerpts from Supasonic, Tea & Sympathy and No One Ever Loves In Vain. Music used by permission. Additional music - Signs - was written, arranged and produced by Gavin Calder. Queen of British Soul Beverley Knight, has been one of the UK's most consistent artists for over two decades. She has had gold and platinum-selling albums, 14 Top 40 hits, sold-out tours, 3 MOBO Awards, Brit Award and Mercury Music Prize nominations - plus an Olivier Award nomination for musical theatre. She's also a massive Prince fan...tune in to parts 1 & 2 of this exclusive interview to hear more memories of Prince, and the influence he had on her career.
Gold Digging is back with our first post-lockdown guest: Ozwald Boateng - long term old friend of Stephen but also creator of Stephen's favourite outlandish brightly coloured suits. Stephen and Ozwald discuss what Ozwald wore during lockdown, his journey to Saville Row, his spell as Creative Director of Givenchy and initiating Made in Africa. A whole lotta gold in this one.
In this interview, Aleks sits down with an old friend and long-time mentor, Christopher Modoo, who’s worked in London’s West End menswear scene for over 20 years.From designing for Savile Row tailors to consulting for heritage brands, Chris has done the lot. He’s also the co-founder of ready-to-wear tailored trouser brand, Kit Blake, so the pair explore why Chris’s latest venture has made such great strides so quickly.Chris isn’t short on an opinion, so this conversation is a curious romp through the sartorial world. As always, we hope you enjoy.---Show Notes:Christopher Modoo — Instagram[03:12] Kit Blake[03:52] Thomas Pink[06:00] Edward Green[06:18] Roderick Charles[06:32] 40 Savile Row[07:11] Richard James[07:17] Cad & The Dandy[07:17] James Sleater on HCR[07:20] SuitSupply[07:58] Ede & Ravenscroft, 1689[12:12] Chester Barrie[12:21] Edward Sexton[13:52] Richard Wheat[15:22] Kit Blake, Aleksander Trouser[16:49] L’Etiquette Magazine[26:53] Ozwald Boateng[28:06] Adret[35:03] Richard James--- HandCut Radio is produced by Birch, a London based creative agency. Our theme music is by Joe Boyd.
Dionne Williams interviews legendary male designer Ozwald Boateng. The London based designer has designed for many people including Will Smith, Jamie Foxx, and Idris Elba just to name a few. Dionne will catch up with Ozwald to find out what he has been doing during this time of COVID, his legendary journey in fashion and … Continue reading 6. Ozwald Boateng: legendary London based male designer discusses his iconic career →
On this episode l talk to Kojo Mafo, the founder of My Runway Group. My Runway group is a youth empowerment organisation which runs workshops, art exhibitions and live events. My Runway Group has been featured on BBC News and Harpers Bazaar for their pop up store, #BlackInCarnaby which features 50 diverse black owned businesses. My Runway has hosted creative industry nights with the likes of Reggie Yates, Ozwald Boateng, & Trevor Nelson and has achieved so much more. Guest info: Instagram: @myrunwaygroup https://www.myrunwaygroup.com/ Kojo Marfo Instagram: @kojosteveaustin Host info: Podcast: @dreamsandmoneypodcast Host Instagram: @normanoms
Dionne Williams interviews legendary male designer Ozwald Boateng. The London based designer has designed for many people including Will Smith, Jamie Foxx, and Idris Elba just to name a few. Dionne will catch up with Ozwald to find out what he has been doing during this time of COVID, his legendary journey in fashion and … Continue reading 6. Ozwald Boateng: Legendary London Based Male Designer Discusses His Iconic Career →
Made by Everyone… for you. A collective of passionate artisans created by renowned tailor, Timothy Everest and advertising creative, Danny Kellard. MbE brings together the best craftsman, materials and designers to create garments that showcase British style in both bespoke garments and ready to wear ranges. Their aim is to create high quality British made goods that complement the modern gentlemen's wardrobe that can be worn for any occasion. MbE also curates and champions products from other like-minded menswear brands that have British quality and materials at their core. Their ready to wear ranges draws particular inspiration from classic military and workwear styles, but with luxury hand crafted twists, whilst Tim brings his own incredible heritage and eponymous style to the bespoke and made to measure offering.In this episode of the MenswearStyle Podcast we interview Made by Everyone (MbE) Co-Founder Timothy Everest about his early tailoring career, first working for Tommy Nutter before going on to create the new bespoke movement alongside Richard James and Ozwald Boateng, with the aim to make British tailoring cool and appeal to a wider audience. Our host Peter Brooker and Timothy also chat about making clothing for Elton John and The Beatles, and his recent project; MbE studio located within Grey Flannel on London's Chiltern Street.Whilst we have your attention, be sure to sign up to our daily MenswearStyle newsletter here. We promise to only send you the good stuff.Photo: Richard Boll
La semana pasada hablamos de la relación entre la moda y el activismo, y cómo esa relación puede verse como algo no tan genuino dependiendo de quién venga. Hoy seguimos la conversación, hablando de algunos personajes que han sido ignorados en la escritura tradicional de la historia de la moda. Esperamos mostrarles cómo, a través de los tiempos, el lente por el que se nos ha enseñado la historia ha nublado la trayectoria de muchos personajes importantes y es reflejo de un racismo sistemático que debe ser reconocido y enfrentado.ReferenciasBeth Fowkes Tobin, Picturing Imperial Power: Colonial Subjects in Eighteenth-Century British Painting (Durham, N. C.: Duke University Press, 1999).Dapper Dan, https://blog.dapperdanofharlem.com/.Ebony, https://www.ebony.com/.Eleanor Burholt, “1863 – Elizabeth Keckley, Striped evening dress for Mary Todd Lincoln,” Fashion History Timeline, 11 de junio de 2020, https://fashionhistory.fitnyc.edu/1863-keckley-striped-evening-dress/.Fabiola Jean-Louis, http://www.fabiolajeanlouis.com/about.Jennifer Craik, The Face of Fashion: Cultural Studies in Fashion (Londres: Routledge, 1994).Jennifer Craik, Fashion: The Key Concepts (Oxford: Berg, 2009).Jeniffer Varela Rodríguez, “Review: JAY JAXON: Fashion Designer, Le Couturier, Costumer,” Fashion Studies Journal, 5 de octubre de 2019, http://www.fashionstudiesjournal.org/reviews-2/2019/10/5/review-jay-jaxon-40-years-of-fashion-design-brilliance.Joanne B. Eicher y Barbara Sumberg, comps., Dress and Ethnicity: Change Across Space and Time (Oxford: Berg, 1995).Linda Welters y Abby Lillethun, Fashion History: A Global View (Londres: Bloomsbury, 2018)Marisa Fuentes, Dispossessed Lives: Enslaved Women, Violence, and the Archive (Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press, 2016).Martha Juanita Nieto, https://www.linkedin.com/in/mjnieto/.Monica L. Miller, Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity (Durham, N. C.: Duke University Press, 2009).Ozwald Boateng, https://ozwaldboateng.co.uk/history.Rachel Fenderson, “JAY JAXON: 40 Years Of Fashion Design Brilliance,” Queens Historical Society, 1 de febrero al 29 de diciembre de 2020, https://queenshistoricalsociety.org/current-exhibitions/jay-jaxon-exhibition/.Saidiya Hartman, Scenes of Subjection: Terror, Slavery, and Self-Making in Nineteenth-Century America (Oxford University Press, 1997).Susan B. Kaiser, Fashion and Cultural Studies (Londres: Bloomsbury, 2012).Tamara Walker, Exquisite Slaves: Race, Clothing, and Status in Colonial Lima (Cambridge University Press, 2017).Yinka Shonibare, http://yinkashonibare.com/home/.Encuéntranos en:http://culturasdemoda.com/http://www.modadospuntocero.com/Instagram: @moda2_0 @culturasdemoda @camila_abisambra @jenvrod @laurabelru @sandramgr @mezubaTwitter: @moda2_0 @CulturasDeModa @JenVRod @sandramgr @laurabelru @mezuba#SalonDeModa
Designers need to reposition their businesses as startups to tap into much-needed investment, says menswear designer, Ozwald Boateng, on the latest episode of TheCurrent Innovators podcast. In conversation with Liz Bacelar at a Spotify event in Paris, Boateng, whose body of work propelled the craftsmanship of London's Savile Row to international recognition, says he believes the creative world needs to learn from technology in terms of how it approaches funding. The fashion industry's model of investors taking control of designers' names early on is broken, he explains, saying that we can all learn from new direct-to-consumer businesses that have overcome this by approaching differently the way that they're backed instead. "What amazes me is when you see these young creative talents, still owning sizeable chunks of the business after raising so much money and getting these valuations of a billion plus – you kind of go, my god, can that really happen, it's almost like a dream, but in the tech world, it's the norm," he notes. "This creates a huge amount of independence and opportunity for the designer – you're no longer forced to follow the rules, so that's exciting. For me as a business, I'm looking at ways to take advantage of that." Conversely, he says the technology world also needs to learn from creatives. "I think if more designers looked at the world of technology and applied their creative to the tech, I am sure we would see some very interesting and groundbreaking ideas ," he comments. He explains that designers are trained to always look forward, to spot trends and understand needs, so it's something he believes would work exceptionally well when applied to technology. "I would happily use a body scanner [for my made-to-measure suits], it makes a lot of sense. But there's a lot of things I could add in terms of how I need the technology to work," he notes. "So I see a partnership. Eventually both [designers and tech companies] will see they need each other, and then they'll just make it work." During the conversation, the duo also talk about his new uniform designs for British Airways, his time as creative director at Givenchy and the role of race and diversity in the industry. Catch up with all of our episodes of TheCurrent Innovators here. The series is a weekly conversation with visionaries, executives and entrepreneurs. It's backed by TheCurrent, a consultancy transforming how consumer retail brands intersect with technology. We deliver innovative integrations and experiences, powered by a network of top technologies and startups. [Get in touch](mailto: contact@thecurrentglobal.com)to learn more.
Ozwald Boateng Joins Academy of Art University Students to Discuss his film, "A Man's Story" and the journey of starting out as a designer at the age of 16, as well as the challenges faced by being a minority within the fashion industry. Through responding to student queries and discussing his own story, fashion guru Ozwald Boateng offers inspiration, drive and optimism for Academy students to take with them along with their degrees as they graduate to join the real world industry of the fashion world.
Ozwald Boateng answers student questions after a showing of his documentary A Man's Story.
Libby Purves is joined by singer David Essex; fashion designer Ozwald Boateng; conservationist Dame Daphne Sheldrick and actor and artist James Burke-Dunsmore. Ozwald Boateng is a British menswear designer who received his first suit at the age of five. A new documentary, 'A Man's Story', charts his career from the opening of his own store on London's Savile Row, to becoming creative director of French fashion house Givenchy. Away from the catwalk, the film reveals the toll the business has taken on his personal life. A Man's Story is out in UK cinemas. David Essex is a musician and actor. Initially unsuccessful as a drummer and singer, his lucky break was in 'Godspell' in 1971. Within a year he was starring in the film 'That'll Be the Day' and had his first No. 1 single, Rock On. In a career spanning forty years, he went on to star in the West End musicals 'Evita' and 'Mutiny', which he wrote. He also recently appeared in Eastenders as Eddie Moon. 'Over the Moon: My Autobiography' is published by Virgin Books. Dame Daphne Sheldrick worked alongside her husband David, the legendary warden of Kenya's Tsavo East National Park, rearing and rehabilitating orphaned wild animals. Since David's death in 1977, Daphne has become internationally known for her work with orphaned elephants and rhinos, establishing the 'David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust' in his memory. Her book Love, Life and Elephants: An African Life Story is published by Penguin/Viking. James Burke-Dunsmore is an actor and director who specialises in playing Jesus Christ in passion plays around the country. He plays Jesus Christ in The Passion of Jesus in London's Trafalgar Square on Good Friday. He is also an artist whose work is inspired by wildlife. Producer: Paula McGinley.
You've probably seen the fashions of Ozwald Boateng on Jamie Foxx in Miami Vice, as well as on Paul Bettany and Laurence Fishburne. He's also starring in the Sundance Channel documentary series, The House of Boateng, and brings us a little couture.