Podcast appearances and mentions of leo houlding

Episode 196 of The Adventure Podcast was recorded online with a live audience, and features Leo Houlding. Leo is, in the simplest of terms, a climber. But really there's so much more to him than that. He's a big wall specialist, an expedition specialist and an alpinist, and he's led a multitude of world class climbing expeditions all over the world from Antarctica to Baffin Island and Greenland to Guyana. Matt and Leo have worked together on a few of those expeditions, and really it was Leo who gave Matt his first chance at getting up close and personal with far flung climbing expeditions. In this episode, they cover a pretty broad range of topics, from Leo's backstory and life growing up in a leaky barn in Cumbria to travelling overseas, embarking on major expeditions and then surprising himself by settling down and becoming a dad. They go on to talk about one of his biggest missions yet, and it's not what you'd expect... This episode was our first ever live online show - thanks so much to everyone who tuned in! Keep an eye on our Instagram @theadventurepodcast or The Adventure Podcast+ community on Substack for future live recordings and Q&A's.Support this show http://supporter.acast.com/the-adventure-podcast. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Remus Knowles runs https://climbing-history.org/ , and since he's a fan of the show, I asked him to come on and tell me which climbers and ascents we missed in Season 1. He showed up with a great list of climbers including Leo Houlding, Klem Loskot and more. I do my best to defend my choices, but Remus makes some great points. Become a Patron and get this full episode for free at: https://www.patreon.com/secretstonersclub Links to things we discuss: Steve McClure and Mutation: https://climbing-history.org/climb/392/mutation Klem Loskot profile and videos: https://climbing-history.org/climber/941/klem-loskot Beat Kammerlander free soloing Mordillo: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8iyaCK-xf10&t=2s Alain Robert's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/alainrobertofficial The Alpine Trilogy: https://climbing-history.org/list/11/the-alpine-trilogy Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 1: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-1 Jam Crack Podcast with Leo Houlding Part 2: https://www.niallgrimes.com/jam-crack-climbing-podcast/2023/12/5/jcpc-142-leo-houlding-part-2

Episode fourteen, the final episode of our specialist series, Explore: How To Plan An Expedition, focuses on the future of exploration. This is actually a live recording taken in 2022 from the opening event for the RGS' annual expedition gathering, Explore, held each November. This is a panel discussion with Sophie Roberts, Oliver Steeds, Leo Houlding, and Dr Heidi Sevestre, on the topic of what it means to be an explorer in the 21st century. They talk about the myriad of global challenges facing exploration today, as well as the responsibilities and tasks facing travellers, adventurers and field scientists, and where they overlap or differ. They also discuss if there's anything left to explore (spoiler alert, there's a lot). Sophie Roberts is an author and journalist who focuses on travel stories in remote parts of the world, with a special interest in literature and history. She is the author of 'The Lost Pianos Of Siberia'. Oliver Steeds is an international investigative journalist and broadcaster. He also founded Nekton; a not-for-profit research institute which commits to scientific exploration and protection of the world's oceans.Leo Houlding is a world-class rock climber, mountaineer and adventurer. He's arguably one of the greatest expedition climbers in history. Dr Heidi Sevestre is a glaciologist, working at the Arctic Monitoring and Assessment Programme and teaches at The University Centre in Svalbard. She is an avid science communicator and has led numerous field research expeditions from tropical glaciers to the depth of the polar regions. She also features in episode twelve of this series. You can find out more about the Royal Geographical Society and access advice and support for field research and scientific expeditions by visiting www.rgs.org/in-the-field or follow them on @rgs_ibg on socials.Support this show http://supporter.acast.com/the-adventure-podcast. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Episode 172 of The Adventure Podcast features climber, route setter, and 'Britain's Manliest Man', Jason Pickles. Jason is a proper underdog and a climber's climber. He's proudly northern, and grew up climbing in Lancashire, Yorkshire and Cumbria before the climbing scene really exploded and turned into what it is now. In this episode, Jason explores his life as a climber, and how we went from young weekend warrior to full time, talented dirt bagger. He speaks to Matt in detail about first major expedition to climb Mount Agsard on Baffin Island, and his partnership with his best mate, Leo Houlding. They speak about ego and imposter syndrome, and how he's more than comfortable being surrounded by people who are better at their sport than him. They also look closely at the transition from full time lifer climber to stay at home dad, and the realities of this new life Jason has built for himself. It's an open conversation with a man who knows exactly who he is, who he isn't and what he wants from life.Photographer: Adam LongSupport this show http://supporter.acast.com/the-adventure-podcast. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

In part 2 we hear about Leo's attempt to push standards and adventure on El Cap, breathtaking stories of wingsuit flying, racing Jeremy Clarkson, then taking his skills to the arctic wilderness and finally bringing it closer to home.

Leo Houlding is one of the finest and boldest rock climbers Britain has produced. In this first of a two-part interview we follow his journey from early Gritstone and wild Welsh forays onto the huge canvas of Yosemite's El Capitan. Stunning.

The invite came in bright red letters from Intrepid Travel: Sabah Adventure – climb Mt Kinabalu and head into the jungle to find Borneo's iconic wildlife. It promised to be a trip to rival all other trips. The catch? It was a group trip. That would mean Phoebe – an avid solo traveller – would have to share her experience (not to mention bedroom) with others. How would it effect the trip?  There was only one way to find out...Also coming up: Learn how to survive room sharing on your adventures with our regular Travel Hack of the Month; Discover the 10 best places in the world where you can travel solo;­Hear from climber and adventurer Leo Houlding about why 'big pointy mountains' make for the most memorable holidays - even with kidsWhich are best - walking boots or shoes? We find out... Hear from the inspiring Matricia Bauer, an Indigenous guide in Jasper and owner of Warrior WomenWander Woman of the Month - Jemima Anne Morrell - the first modern tourist in 1832Come wander with her…#WanderWomanWednesdaywww.Phoebe-Smith.com; @PhoebeRSmith

Leo Houlding is one of the greatest adventure climbers of all time. He's put up new free routes worldwide from the Amazon Rainforest to the remote regions of Antarctica. We talked about his upcoming trip to Baffin Island, his childhood in the UK, using the fix-and-follow system to climb 2000' big walls with his kids, epic stories from his El Cap days, what he learned from his worst injury, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/leo-houldingNuggets:0:02:54 – Prepping for his trip to Baffin Island0:07:16 – Enjoying the logistics, and planning the food for a month-long expedition for three people0:13:50 – Leo's beta knowledge for expeditions, and going beyond roads0:16:01 – Leo's “little issue”, and base jumping off the top of Mount Asgard0:23:56 – The challenge of attempting to free climb Asgard again0:27:29 – Leo's Instagram cover photo0:29:16 – Writing his book, his mom and dad, and his adventurous spirit as a kid0:33:39 – Leo's first big adventure climb, Old Man of Hoy0:37:24 – How his life has turned out compared to how he imagined it as a kid0:38:24 – Being born at the right time0:42:45 – Generations in Yosemite0:45:18 – “Climb that goddamn mountain.”0:49:49 – Adventuring with his kids0:53:59 – Using the fix-and-follow system with the kids to climb big walls1:00:56 – Climbing in the Wind River Range with Llamas and the kids1:05:11 – Tips for keeping the morale high for kids1:13:13 – Compromises with kids, and plans to take them out of school for an around-the-world mission1:16:41 – “The days are long but the years are short.”1:17:10 – My travels with my family around South America as a 5-year-old, and seeing the developing world as a kid1:20:34 – A final tip for parents who want to adventure with kids1:22:41 – Rest in peace Ammon McNeely ❤1:23:34 – The Alfa Romeo badge story1:35:41 – Question from Sam Stroh: What are Leo's thoughts on going ground up on The Prophet?1:42:51 – Getting caught in one of the worst storms in Yosemite history, and doing the first free ascent of The Prophet1:48:41 – Closer to the Edge1:49:29 – The end of his Yosemite chapter1:52:03 – Leo's accident on Cerro Torre1:56:41 – Leo's expeditions to Antarctica2:02:11 – Kite skiing2:07:11 – Rock climbing at the end of the world2:08:42 – “I wanted the most hardcore trip ever, and I got it.”2:09:52 – His trip to the Amazon rainforest, and making The House of the Gods film2:13:58 – Dropping loads out of an airplane into the rainforest2:18:21 – Free climbing a new route on Mount Roraima2:20:31 – More about Leo's book Closer to the Edge, and the film 2.4 about adventuring with kids2:23:35 – Why we should travel to the developing world2:24:41 – Wrap up

Nashy first met Leo last November at the Kendal Mountain Festival so it was awesome to finally catch up for a chat on the Podcast.As normal with Nashy the conversation dived into dad life and family adventures as Leo is big on pushing his kids and taking them with him to exciting places.However its Leo's incredible career and inspiring expeditions that take centre stage with his book 'Closer to the Edge' and movie 'House of Gods' having been recently released he has tons of fantastic stories to tell.Hope you enjoy.This Podcast is brought to you by ACE Property - Management and Sales - Edinburgh.Contact Nashy for Podcast sponsorship opportunities and get you brand / business in the ears of thousands of listeners.Follow Nashy...Insta - @the_getafterit_family Insta - @getafterit_nashyYouTube - GET AFTER IT with NashyTwitter - @GetAfterItNashyFacebook - GET AFTER IT with NashyFacebook - Dads and Dudes - Private group

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:0:07:08 – What is your Dawn Wall?0:07:59 – Tommy's injury and his canceled trip to Germany0:09:53 – Tommy's Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability0:15:21 – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy's climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)0:17:35 – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO0:20:17 – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor0:23:05 – Matty Hong's repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy's thoughts on the grade0:25:20 – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris0:28:48 – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering0:30:04 – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do0:31:56 – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?0:34:00 – Patron Question from Atlin: What's the next big objective that hasn't been done in Yosemite?0:35:16 – Leo Houlding's vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold0:38:46 – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainbleau0:41:13 – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches0:46:42 – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?0:47:55 – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?0:58:12 – Tommy's TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything1:01:11 – Toenail fungus, and Tommy's experience with Lamisil1:04:53 – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work1:07:09 – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad1:14:32 – Tommy's parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”1:18:07 – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?1:19:47 – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?1:25:10 – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?1:26:34 – The story behind Tommy's repeated achilles injury1:31:19 – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?1:33:16 – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos1:35:20 – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?1:36:21 – The king line on El Cap1:40:39 – Future linkups in Yosemite1:42:51 – Tommy's favorite Disney movie1:43:30 – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience1:46:13 – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners1:48:29 – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?1:48:52 – Big wall pooping stories1:51:16 – Another book?1:52:28 – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine1:55:25 – Wrap up

Leo Houlding – Closer to the Edge: Climbing to the ends of the Earth...with TRE's Hannah Murray

Leo Houlding started climbing at 10 years of age in the Lake District and was the youngest person (and first Briton) to free climb El Capitan in Yosemite National Park in the United States at 18 years, which cemented his reputation. He has since gone on to summit the world's toughest peaks and explore the most extreme places on our planet. During such explorations he has had to deal with tragedy when close friends and colleagues have been killed or badly injured, and he will discuss how you deal with such loss and carry on. Honest, raw and exhilarating, Closer to the Edge will be a 'warts-and-all' insight into the extreme life of one of Britain's best mountaineer adventurers. What drives him? How does he assess risk and judge what level he'll take himself to be successful, and how does he balance this with teaching his own children the lessons he has learnt in some of the world's most dangerous and extreme places?

This week, we return to one of our favourite episodes, to ask the question: what does it mean to defy death? Rock climber Leo Houlding tells us about his terrifying family holidays, scaling vertical cliff-faces with his two young kids. We also explore radical life extension with science writer Anjana Ahuja. How close are we scientifically to extending the human lifespan to 150 or 200? What are the implications when we get there? And do we really want to live forever? Links from the episode: — Leo Houlding's extreme family holiday in Wyoming's wild west: https://www.ft.com/content/0bcba30a-bb46-4bc1-8a7d-9166dc43a5e8 — Anjana Ahuja on whether we can live forever: https://www.ft.com/content/60d9271c-ae0a-4d44-8b11-956cd2e484a9 — Inside the life extension market, with Tiffanie Darke: https://www.ft.com/content/867e647b-c0e8-4aeb-9777-fedff7ec3476 Want to say hi? Email us at ftweekendpodcast@ft.com. We're on Twitter @ftweekendpod, and Lilah is on Instagram and Twitter @lilahrap. If you want a great discount on an FT subscription or a $1/£1/€1 month-long trial, we've got you: http://ft.com/weekendpodcast Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner, with original music by Metaphor music.Read a transcript of this episode on FT.com See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

This week, we return to one of our favourite episodes to ask the question: what does it mean to defy death? Rock climber Leo Houlding tells us about his terrifying family holidays, scaling vertical cliff-faces with his two young kids. We also explore radical life extension with science writer Anjana Ahuja. How close are we scientifically to extending the human lifespan to 150 or 200? What are the implications when we get there? And do we really want to live forever? Links from the episode: — Leo Houlding's extreme family holiday in Wyoming's wild west: https://www.ft.com/content/0bcba30a-bb46-4bc1-8a7d-9166dc43a5e8 — Anjana Ahuja on whether we can live forever: https://www.ft.com/content/60d9271c-ae0a-4d44-8b11-956cd2e484a9 — Inside the life extension market, with Tiffanie Darke: https://www.ft.com/content/867e647b-c0e8-4aeb-9777-fedff7ec3476 Want to say hi? Email us at ftweekendpodcast@ft.com. We're on Twitter @ftweekendpod, and Lilah is on Instagram and Twitter @lilahrap. If you want a great discount on an FT subscription or a $1/£1/€1 month-long trial, we've got you: http://ft.com/weekendpodcast Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner, with original music by Metaphor music.Read a transcript of this episode on FT.com See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

FT Weekend is a weekly Saturday show that brings the best of our weekend journalism into audio form, with everything from culture and food and the arts, to nuanced questions and big ideas. In this episode, we ask the question: what does it mean to defy death? Rock climber Leo Houlding tells us about his terrifying family holidays, scaling vertical cliff-faces with his two young kids. We also explore radical life extension with science writer Anjana Ahuja. How close are we scientifically to extending the human lifespan to 150 or 200? What are the implications when we get there? And do we really want to live forever? PLUS: inside the luxury life extension market, with How to Spend it writer Tiffanie Darke. Links from the episode: — Leo Houlding's extreme family holiday in Wyoming's wild west: https://www.ft.com/content/0bcba30a-bb46-4bc1-8a7d-9166dc43a5e8 — Anjana Ahuja on whether we can live forever: https://www.ft.com/content/60d9271c-ae0a-4d44-8b11-956cd2e484a9 — Inside the life extension market, with Tiffanie Darke: https://www.ft.com/content/867e647b-c0e8-4aeb-9777-fedff7ec3476 Want to say hi? Email us at ftweekendpodcast@ft.com. We're on Twitter @ftweekendpod, and Lilah is on Instagram and Twitter @lilahrap. If you want a great discount on an FT subscription or a $1/£1/€1 month-long trial, we've got you: http://ft.com/weekendpodcast Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner, with original music by Metaphor music. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

This weekend, we ask the question: what does it mean to defy death? Rock climber Leo Houlding tells us about his terrifying family holidays, scaling vertical cliff-faces with his two young kids. We also explore radical life extension with science writer Anjana Ahuja. How close are we scientifically to extending the human lifespan to 150 or 200? What are the implications when we get there? And do we really want to live forever? PLUS: inside the luxury life extension market, with How to Spend it writer Tiffanie Darke. Links from the episode: — Leo Houlding's extreme family holiday in Wyoming's wild west: https://www.ft.com/content/0bcba30a-bb46-4bc1-8a7d-9166dc43a5e8 — Anjana Ahuja on whether we can live forever: https://www.ft.com/content/60d9271c-ae0a-4d44-8b11-956cd2e484a9 — Inside the life extension market, with Tiffanie Darke: https://www.ft.com/content/867e647b-c0e8-4aeb-9777-fedff7ec3476 Want to say hi? Email us at ftweekendpodcast@ft.com. We're on Twitter @ftweekendpod, and Lilah is on Instagram and Twitter @lilahrap. If you want a great discount on an FT subscription or a $1/£1/€1 month-long trial, we've got you: http://ft.com/weekendpodcast Mixing and sound design by Breen Turner, with original music by Metaphor music. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

If modern British adventure has a face, it looks a lot like Leo Houlding. Based in the Lake District, UK, he is one of Britain's top climbers and among the best in the world. He is a veteran of a score of epic ascents, including Everest, but specialises in free climbing the most technical peaks and biggest walls in the world. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Leo Houlding is a world-class climber and adventurer, veteran of a score of epic ascents including Everest. But he specialises in free climbing – i.e. without ropes – and helped pioneer para-alpinism – climbing up and flying down. In the last episode of the current series, Ed talks to Leo about what fostered the desire for risk and how difficult it is to rationalise. See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Many of the stories in Factor Two feature the same scenario - What next? You always imagine ticking the big goal might be enough, but it rarely is. For Ben Bransby and Jvan Tresch it seemed obvious what was next. Patagonia has long been the most difficult and revered home to big walls in the world. Notorious weather systems, complex peaks, difficult routes and tricky conditions create a mix where simply completing anything in a season is an achievement. In their first season in 2003 they managed just that. On route, accompanied by Adam Long. In fact, they were probably the only team to top out on anything in Patagonia that season. While in El Chalten they bumped into Bean Bowers, a familiar face, who was impressed by their efforts and invited them to team up and attempt the coveted Torre Traverse the following season. Bad weather meant they never made it onto the traverse, a route later climbed by Rolando Garibotti and Colin Haley. Frustrated with the poor weather Bean left for a week to head to the coast. His departure was timed with a week of good weather and Jvan and Ben were able to take advantage of the window with the first free ascent of the Fonrouge Route on Aguja Poincenot, as well as a new route on Aguja Saint Exupery. After celebrating in El Chalten the hungover pair were woken early in the morning by Bean's return. The three set off on an extraordinary 56 hour push on Fitzroy, making the second ascent of the Slovak Route. I spoke before about how Patch Hammond, Leo Houlding and Ben's stories are coming of age tales. Between his ascent of Freerider in 1998 and his Patagonia seasons Ben had a real coming of age moment. On an expedition in Greenland in 2000 his father was killed abseiling down a peak. Ben was just 20. He was halfway up a route on the Thumbnail when the news was broken to him, having just completed the first ascent of a new E6 with a team including Gaz Parry and Ian Parnell. Ben had to break the news to his mother over the phone. Here Ben tells the story of his Patagonian adventures, coloured by a mature view on his relationship with his parents and how they have informed the love he has for climbing. Find Factor Two on Facebook at https://www.facebook.com/factortwopod/ Twitter - @treasurewild Music credits: Dark Fog Kevin McLeod Incompetech.com Odyssey Kevin McLeod Incompetech.com Techno My EchoOo KiDNN Global Warming Kai Engel Deadpanned Jahzzar Asylum Mystery Mammal Timeless Lee Rosevere Denouement Kai Engel Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 4.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/

After hearing from Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond about their legendary Yosemite season in 1998 there was one obvious gap in our story - Ben Bransby. Before attempting Freerider with Patch, Ben had made an ascent of the Salathe Wall with Mark Reeves. It was his first taste of big wall climbing and gave him the confidence that he could get himself out of trouble if needed. The climbing world might have been astonished at his and Patch's efforts on Freerider - remember at this time that there were only 2 free routes on El Capitan - but for Ben it felt like unfinished business. After getting gripped on the Monster Offwidth and succeeding on the Enduro Corner and the Boulder Problem he and Patch ended up jumarring the Huber brothers' fixed ropes to finish the route. A few years later he returned to the valley with the goal of doing Freerider "properly". In doing so the seed was planted for a one day ascent with Swiss climber Jvan Tresch. A few teams had done this previously, including the Hubers, who overtook Patch and Ben in 1998. Their ascent was almost curtailed by the wrong kind of commitment. They were arrested and jailed in Yosemite after being caught shoplifting kneepads to try to protect themselves in the Monster Offwidth. After being bailed out on a Friday evening they were due in court on Monday and could end up being thrown out of the valley. In the early hours of the Saturday morning the pair set off on what would prove to be the biggest, hardest day of cragging they'd ever had. Being committed on El Capitan like it was just another day at the crag was a dream come true, and one that Ben holds up as his proudest climbing achievement. As with Patch and Leo, this is very much a coming of age story. It's clear that with each ascent Ben was looking to the next adventure already, banking the experience for future use. But this story is an echo of previous tales in Factor Two in many more ways. If you've listened to our episode Nine and a Half Hours with Duncan Critchley you'll see what I mean - A one day ascent of El Capitan with a Swiss climber? The reverberations from Duncan's Nose In A Day back in 1984 are a little spooky, right down to the words they use. That's what I love about these stories, climbing is such a shared experience. Getting a little glimpse into that shared mindset is something relatable at any level. Music credits: Stiller Tag Philip Weigl Free Tone Textures Small Colin Aftermath Kevin McLeod (incompetech.com) I Am Running Down the Hallway of Viewmont Elementary Chris Zabriskie Plantation Audionautix.com Subdivision of the Masses Philip Weigl Brooks Kai Engel Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

Our guest for this episode is Leo Houlding, one of the great expedition leaders of our time. Leo's goal for this year was a new free route on Roraima, a legendary mountain in South America that is steeped in British climbing lore. In 1973, a team of four Brits—Mo Anthoine, Joe Brown, Hamish MacInnes, and Don Whillans—made the first ascent of the super-isolated and dramatic north prow of Roraima. Just getting to the mountain involves a lengthy jungle trek and thousands of feet of climbing through a "slime forest." AAJ editor Chris Kalman spoke with Leo about the soggy approach, the wild 14-pitch climb they found, and helping two local Amerindians, Edward James and Troy Henry, become the first Guyanese to climb their country's most spectacular cliff. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Anna Taylor had never travelled further than Germany when she boarded the plane to Guyana to join Leo Houlding on a world class expedition to Mount Roraima. The day after the helicopter whisked her away from the summit, Matt sat down with Anna to talk candidly about her experiences throughout the month in the jungle, looking at what has changed, and what has remained the same.

Advanced base camp has been established, and it's time to head up the wall. Before they do, here's an in-depth expedition update from team leader Leo Houlding.

Patch Hammond has remained a bit of an enigma in the climbing world. If you flick through the magazines from the late 1990s you’ll see a scruffy youth with an impressive climbing CV – onsighting E6 and E7 in North Wales and climbing with the likes of Tim Emmett, Neil Gresham and Leo Houlding. In the last episode we heard from Leo about their ascent of El Niño on El Capitan – Leo’s first big wall. Patch and Leo had travelled to Yosemite together, but while Leo was socialising at Camp Four and becoming part of the Yosemite scene it was Patch who was heading off trying to get better at the style of climbing there. Patch met Ben Bransby for the first time in the valley. Encouraged by the Huber brothers the two of them set out to repeat Free Rider – the same route featured in Free Solo with Alex Honnold. They set off from the base of the wall to attempt it ground up, with no experience and borrowed gear and made an impressive effort. They didn’t quite manage to free climb the route, but put in what was at the time the most impressive British attempt on El Capitan. Under the wing of the Hubers, Patch talked Leo into attempting El Niño, telling him that he’d already done a 5.13a pitch and was convinced Leo would stand a chance of onsighting 5.13b. Plus the route would suit them – no crack climbing on this one, slabs and adventure climbing exactly like they’d been training on in the slate quarries and at Gogarth. Patch’s memories of those years climbing revolve around the community he became a part of, and the mentors who guided him. He still seems in awe of the fact that he could be a part of this scene where everyone was a hero to him. He didn’t seem to realise that maybe he was one of them too. Factor Two is brought to you by Wil Treasure and UKClimbing.com Music credits: Plantation Audionautix.com Stiller Tag Philip Weigl Aftermath Kevin McLeod (incompetech.com) Solo Acoustic Blues Audionautix.com Autumn Sunset Audionautix.com Subdivision of the Masses Philip Weigl Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

Back in 1998 Leo Houlding and Patch Hammond achieved something almost unthinkable – a near onsight ascent of El Capitan. They were just 18, had no big wall experience and headed to Yosemite without any great ambitions for the big faces. They had intended to try to headpoint some bold, hard new lines, but quickly discovered that the sort of lines they were after didn’t exist in Yosemite. When they arrived there were just two free routes on the mai wall of the Captain. The Salathé Wall, freed by Paul Piana and Todd Skinner in 1988, and The Nose, freed by Lynn Hill in 1993. But the mid 90s saw a new team emerge – the Huber brothers. In the few years before Leo and Patch’s trip the Hubers had started to establish themselves as a free climbing force in the valley. In 1998 Alex and Thomas Huber made the first free ascent of El Niño. The Hubers employed seriously redpointing tactics to achieve their route, preparing each pitch meticulously before making their ascent. Taking Patch and Leo under their wing they encouraged them to try the route. It was still well chalked, the hardest climbing was in the first few pitches and their hand drawn topo was still fresh. After borrowing the gear they would need and making up their big wall tactics as best they could over 5 days, Leo and Patch stood on the summit. Leo had managed to onsight all but one pitch, with Patch freeing many as well. It was an astonishing achievement at the time, but even now El Capitan awaits a true onsight ascent. Factor Two is brought to you by Wil Treasure and UKClimbing.com Music credits: Plantation Jason Shaw (audionautix.com) Solo Acoustic Blues Jason Shaw (audionautix.com) Porch Blues Kevin McLeod (incompetech.com) Subdivision of the Masses Philipp Weigl Brookes Kai Engel Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/

Full episode info and Show Notes: www.wearelookingsideways.com New favourite guest alert! I very much enjoyed this serendipitous conversation with climber, adventurer and explorer Leo Houlding, recorded at the Kendal Mountain Festival in November 2018. Leo was at the festival to promote his film Spectre, about the expedition of the same name that saw him and companions Mark Sedon and Jean Burgun kite ski across Antarctica before attempting to climb Spectre, a peak deep in the Transantarctic Range, before kiting back across the continent to get home. This hugely ambitious project is an example of what Leo calls ‘21st century exploration’, and as we chatted I realised that through such expeditions Houlding is quietly reinventing our notions of adventure by marrying the scale and ambition of traditional exploration with a modern action sports sensibility. It’s a completely innovative approach that raises some rather interesting ethical questions about the whole business of polar exploration and the very notion of adventure itself in the modern era, something we discussed at entertaining length during our chat. We also explored one of the great over-arching themes of the Looking Sideways podcast: the relativity of risk, and the ways in which athletes like Leo justify risk in the face of the danger they voluntarily place themselves in, amid the wider arc of encroaching maturity. Leo is a great conversationalist, transparent and honest, and as all great conversations do this one took on a life of its own as we explored his recent adventures, inner motivations and utterly unique viewpoint on the current state of adventure. Thanks as ever to Matt Ward for the theme tune.

Tonight’s segments – Poking fun at the director by trashing the Porsche Cayman S, the origin story of British Racing Green, playing RC cars with full size sedans, speed climbers vs. the new Audi RS4, and star in a reasonably priced car Ian Wright NO MORE AMAZON PRIME BOOOOOOOO!!!!! – https://jalopnik.com/you-cant-watch-old-top-gear-episodes-for-free-on-amazon-1830390390 Rally Cayman is best Cayman – https://jalopnik.com/making-a-cayman-into-a-rally-car-is-the-best-thing-pors-1828445520 Cayman S vs Carrera – https://www.automobilemag.com/news/porsche-cayman-911/ Petrolicious’ racing hues history – https://petrolicious.com/articles/the-colorful-history-of-national-racing-hues-an-introduction-1-of-4 Ian Wright’s DB7 – http://astonmartins.com/car/db7-i6-alfred-dunhill-le/ Some reasons to love Ian Wright – https://www.planetfootball.com/quick-reads/seven-reasons-you-cant-help-but-love-ian-wright/ This subreddit is creepy – https://old.reddit.com/r/topgearbabes/ Drag racing RS wagons! – https://www.motor1.com/news/269621/audi-rs4-generations-drag-race/ Leo Houlding is pretty rad – http://www.leohoulding.com/ Facebook – https://www.facebook.com/topgearrearview/ Music – In Heaven by DeCreek, licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution License

Leo Houlding is one of the most famous rock-climbers in the world. He tells adventurer Steve Backshall about the most bizarre and unforgettable experience of his life. In 2012, Leo travelled to a remote corner of Venezuela to make an attempt on the unforgiving table-top mountain Cerro Autana. It's considered sacred by the local Pieroa people on whose land it stands. They were suspicious of Leo's motives; they couldn't understand why he would travel so far simply to climb. Leo says they suspected him of prospecting for diamonds. So, it was important for him to gain their trust - partly because he needed their help to carry equipment and break through the impenetrable rainforest that stood between his team and the mountain. Trust was gained by undertaking a frightening and dangerous ‘yopo' ceremony. Yopo is a powerful hallucinogenic drug, used in shamanic ritual; it sent Leo on what he describes as a terrifying exorcism. Following the ceremony, Leo – in a fragile state – continued into the jungle on his expedition. The local people, who had been doubtful of him and his motives, were suddenly warm, friendly and helpful. Having battled plague proportions of insects, and hacked their way through almost impenetrable undergrowth, Leo and his team were finally able to attempt to scale this 1220 metre mountain.Image: Leo Houlding, Credit: Alastair Lee

In late August, Will Stanhope and Leo Houlding linked the three biggest faces on the Howser Towers in British Columbia's Bugaboos, climbing them all free in 23 and a half hours. Will had been dreaming about this unprecedented enchainment for eight years. The AAJ's Chris Kalman spoke with Will about the planning for the linkup, how to free climb so much ground so quickly, and the primal energy boost from an alpine sunrise after 23 hours on the go. The Cutting Edge is produced by the American Alpine Club. Special thanks to Jason Burton (www.jasontylerburton.com) for the sound effects and original music.