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Adrian Ballinger is a renowned alpinist and mountain guide, and has summited Mt. Everest and K2 without supplemental oxygen. We talked about his childhood, misconceptions about what he does, what climbing Everest is actually like, skiing above 8,000 meters, risking his life to send K2, sending Fall of Man 5.13b, how mountaineering compares to projecting 5.13, meeting his wife Emily Harrington, how performance changes with age, lessons everyone should know, and much more. You can learn more about Adrian at adrianballinger.comMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad (Don't Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/adrian-ballingerNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:06) – Growing up(00:06:08) – Connecting with adventure as a kid(00:16:08) – Misconceptions about what Adrian does(00:22:04) – Tech breakthroughs in mountaineering(00:26:04) – Client pressure around summits(00:30:04) – Alpenglow Expeditions(00:33:09) – Regulations on Everest(00:35:08) – What climbing Everest is really like(00:41:04) – Climbing Everest without oxygen(00:49:57) – Preparing for Everest without oxygen(00:58:56) – Skiing accolades(01:01:59) – Skiing above 8,000 meters(01:05:00) – Skiing down vs. rappelling massive peaks(01:08:58) – Fall of Man(01:11:01) – Physically hardest climb(01:12:56) – Mental hardest climb(01:14:57) – Most dangerous climb(01:18:01) – Why Adrian took a risk on K2(01:21:01) – Meeting Emily(01:32:45) – What's left for Adrian in alpinism(01:34:43) – Switching to hard sport climbing(01:46:43) – Bouldering in Rocklands(01:54:42) – Performance changes with age(01:59:42) – Athletes Adrian looks up to(02:02:40) – Lessons everyone should know(02:05:40) – Adrian's podcast
The legend himself, Chris Sharma.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Sagi has been the German team's bouldering coach since 2022! In this episode, we'll get insight into Team Germany's training and challenges, hear why he thinks the losses hurt the coaches more than the competitors, we'll get a story about his experience as a homeless person while in the US, and most importantly, we'll DEBUNK his famous statement in the Magnus video that Olympic qualifiers will still be in the combined format for 2028!Guest links:Sagi's InstagramReference links:IFSC Format Experiment Upcoming CompThank you Mad Rock for sponsoring this episode! Use code 'notrealclimber' for 10% off your ENTIRE order, even if you're a returning customer! https://madrock.com/Learn more about the podcast at www.thatsnotrealclimbingpodcast.comFollow on Instagram at https://www.instagram.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastJoin the FREE community in Discord! https://discord.gg/QTa668g8zpJoin Patreon for a welcome gift, deleted scenes, and question priority: www.patreon.com/thatsnotrealclimbingpodcastTimestamps of discussion topics0:00 - Intro1:40 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!2:24 - Youth worlds + Spain travels4:59 - Climbing + coaching with no experience!12:02 - Becoming the German bouldering coach19:42 - Do pros still need climbing tips??22:41 - Team Germany's training breakdown + reaction time practice28:19 - Comforting athletes who have a bad round37:58 - DEBUNKING LA 2028 qualification process44:07 - The issue with bouldering points system47:32 - HOT TAKE: Bouldering is no longer real climbing54:53 - New generation of climbing1:02:55 - German team challenges1:09:42 - Price of hosting world cups1:11:13 - Bouldering needs to change1:18:50 - USA travel nightmare1:28:03 - IG Q: Athletes in Germany that hate the DAV?1:32:11 - DISCORD Q: Talk through the process of an appeal1:38:58 - DISCORD Q: What do you do in ISO?1:40:55 - Words of wisdom + where to find Sagi
Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available! https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow In this Pro Clinic, coach Jesse Firestone answers lisnters' top bouldering questions in his characteristic thoughtful manner. Topics include: How to access maximal effort and power on the first move Visualization techniques to get amped The value of limiting attempts on a boulder Are grades necessary for motivation and progression Loss aversion theory The importance of skills over grades Managing fear of falling A guaranteed way to get better at scary top outs Dealing with injuries How to let go of the things we can't control Overcoming biases to refresh our training and performance How to improve at technique if we don't have a coach Using video for self technique review When testing various strength metrics is helpful vs a waste of time Building capacity for better bouldering sessions - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Here are some AI generated show notes (hopefully the robots got it right) 00:00 Introduction to Strength Training 00:22 Welcome to the Struggle Climbing Show 00:41 Top 10 Bouldering Questions 01:34 Jesse Firestone's Coaching Insights 02:46 Personal Climbing Journeys 03:28 Parenting and Climbing 05:54 Q&A Session Begins 07:32 Maximal Effort Tips 08:21 Visualization Techniques 10:07 Creating Aggression for Climbing 12:22 Strength Training and Plyometrics 15:25 Session Constraints and Final Tips 16:25 Corey's Perspective on Grades 17:18 Understanding Loss Aversion in Climbing 19:26 Skills Over Grades: A Coaching Approach 22:58 The Value of Attempting the Impossible 29:51 Fear of Falling in Outdoor Bouldering 31:27 Conclusion and Further Insights - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua Horsley.'Classics' mentioned:"Effervescence" - 7A/V6 @ 45°"Clinical" - 7B/V8 @ 45°"Ignite" - 7B+/V8 @ 45°"Free Education" - 7C/V9 @ 45°Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
We have a lot of rock here in the Basin! Our region is fast becoming a global hotspot for sport climbing and bouldering, and we'll hear from those leading the charge in its development. We also chat with Chief Jason Louie from the Lower Kootenay Band of the Ktunaxa on the spiritual significance of rock, our oldest resident.
Kerwin Loukusa lives in Leavenworth, WA, and sent his first V12 and V13 last year while juggling a full-time job, wife, and two young kids. We talked about how he improved his flexibility to send the Freerider in Yosemite, bouldering after having kids, home wall training, the key to building persistent strength, bodyweight manipulation, energy availability, beginner's mind, feeling vs. analysing, weather forecasting hacks, how dew point affects climbing conditions, and much more. A lot of nuggets in this one.The GRINDS Program (FREE Training PDF)thenuggetclimbing.comRúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Mad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Chilipad (Don't Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemNADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/kerwin-loukusaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:05) – Flexibility journey(00:08:08) – Identifying limiting factors(00:10:38) – Stemming flexibility continued(00:16:39) – Freerider & Father TIme(00:24:15) – Bouldering after kids(00:26:56) – Mountain running & cardio(00:40:00) – Leveling up to V12 and V13(00:48:07) – Home wall training(01:09:54) – Off-the-wall training(01:11:28) – Building persistent strength(01:16:45) – Pillars 1-3: Proximetry, Rest, & Nutrition(01:32:23) – Know yourself(01:35:06) – Bodyweight & energy availability(01:48:13) – Pillar 4: Mindset(02:01:35) – Slingblade V13(02:10:03) – An obsessive brain(02:14:25) – Obstacles & growth(02:20:43) – Don't get injured(02:23:42) – Slow & steady gains(02:32:46) – Ease into it(02:37:32) – Intuition & beta iteration(02:45:09) – Beginner's mind(02:50:39) – Feeling vs. analyzing(02:54:26) – Power spots(03:00:30) – Weather forecasting(03:18:03) – Dew point(03:22:43) – Cold rock(03:26:36) – Morning climbing(03:38:36) – Upcoming goals(03:40:50) – Mentorship & stewardship(03:46:18) – Public vs. private land
Jesse Firestone is a well known climbing coach. He's worked with people from every continent and of all levels (V0 - V16).Here's where you can find Jesse online:Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/coachjfire/Website: https://jfireclimbing.com/Jesse's own Podcast: https://open.spotify.com/show/6iRknM60I84k2pmeztWDt2?si=0fc3bde1ff244e74Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Look at the Chapters for today's topics.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
Tommy Caldwell grew up exploring Yosemite, looking up at El Capitan's punishing 3000ft sheer rock face. After years of training, he was ready to climb it. Tommy is regarded as the world's best big wall climber.He spent 15 years ascending various routes on El Capitan, the Yosemite National Park mecca for big wall climbers, until he was finally ready to attempt a route christened 'The Dawn Wall'.The Dawn Wall is a 3000-foot ascent up sheer rock on the southeast face of El Capitan.It took Tommy and his partner Kevin Jorgeson 19 days, but in 2015 they became the first to successfully free climb The Dawn Wall.The accomplishment was the culmination of years of endurance, just only on the wall, but also on the ground. As a younger man, Tommy was kidnapped in Kyrgyzstan and he later lost a finger in an accident, which is a particularly devastating loss for a climber. Through it all, Tommy says climbing is what kept him sane.Further informationFirst broadcast in August, 2019.A documentary about Tommy and Kevin's climb, The Dawn Wall, is available on Netflix.2025 update: Tommy has published a best-selling memoir, ‘The Push'.You can read all about the Conversations origin story on the ABC News website.This episode of Conversations explores rock climbing, bouldering, California, National Parks, outdoor pursuits, free climbing, sports injuries, documentary, adrenaline sports.To binge even more great episodes of the Conversations podcast with Richard Fidler and Sarah Kanowski go the ABC listen app (Australia) or wherever you get your podcasts. There you'll find hundreds of the best thought-provoking interviews with authors, writers, artists, politicians, psychologists, musicians, and celebrities.
Alex Honnold is an amazing climber and one of the best ambassadors our sport has ever had. He may be the most famous climber of all time with his ropeless ascents of the most beautiful and iconic climbs in the world. Enjoy this chat with one of greats.Join Patreon: HERE Follow us on Instagram: HERE Visit our podcast page: HERE
There's dominance, and then there's Janja Garnbret. By 20, she'd done what no climber, man or woman, had ever achieved: won every competition in a World Cup season. She's a two-time Olympic champion, a six-time World Champion, and the only athlete in climbing history to rule Lead, Bouldering, and Combined at the highest level. This very special episode of Feel Slovenia features an in-depth interview with Janja herself. We'll uncover a side of her that doesn't wear chalk on her hands or medals around her neck. We'll learn where she likes to take visitors to Slovenia, the climb that has eluded her but which she dreams about, whether there will be a climbing wall in her newly built house, and how her nutrition plan differs from fellow Slovenian superstar Luka Dončič. All that and more, as part of this special episode with Janja Garnbret, the GOAT of climbing.Feel Slovenia the Podcast is brought to you by the Slovenian Tourist Board and hosted by Dr Noah Charney.Sound Production: Urska Charney For more inspirational content, check out www.slovenia.info and our social media channels, including Instagram, Facebook, YouTube, Twitter, Pinterest, LinkedIn and Tripadvisor.
Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato (Director of Marketing at Tension) and Joshua HorsleyTHIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Allison Vest and Kyra Condie on a 55 degree MoonBoardBen Kim's First Time on the TB2 MirrorBen Moon and Sam Prior on the 2024 MoonBoardBoard accounts mentioned (MoonBoard Focused Instagrams): @jessieisboard, @steve_radar4, @daradar_boards, @good_condies, @40degreelogbook, @cool.board.climbsOrganic ClimbingSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Ravioli Biceps! Just back from an amazing trip to Rocklands, Ravioli shares how board climbing transfers to outdoor climbing, the evolution of board climbing culture over the last decade, how he deals with stopper moves, and some of the misconceptions about board climbing being non-technical.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Today's episode covers:The Current WC Season (and a Janja tangent)Yannick Flohe's World's First 8C Flash (or was it?)The Pro's and Con's of Pushing Things To The Absolute LimitFOMO of All The Good Temps and Good Times Being Had in RocklandsSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Andy Raether is a prolific sport climber, boulderer, and developer based in Las Vegas, NV. He also owns a climbing hold company and created the Woods Board. We talked about his intro to climbing and making holds, bringing routes and crags to life, sending his hardest boulder (Midlife Crisis V14) at 40 years old, how he trains on The Woods Board, how to master terrible holds, and much more.Rúngne (Chalk & Apparel)rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Chilipad (Don't Lose Sleep this Summer)Get 20% off any Chilipad sleep systemMad Rock (Shoes & Crash Pads)madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.NADS (Organic Cotton Underwear)Use code STEVEN for 15% offThe GRINDS Program (Free Training PDF)thenuggetclimbing.comThe NUG (My Portable Hangboard)frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/andy-raetherNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:49) – Climbing Magazine ad(00:03:52) – Andy's origin story(00:09:44) – Legendary holds(00:13:49) – Making climbing holds(00:16:49) – Early rock climbing & development(00:23:54) – Menagerie(00:25:49) – Meeting his wife(00:28:33) – Moving to Vegas(00:32:07) – Dad Raether(00:39:00) – Vegas bolting potential(00:45:06) – Bringing crags to life(01:05:53) – Bouldering development(01:08:34) – Midlife Crisis V14(01:35:43) – Stronger at 40 than 20(01:40:15) – Dad Bod(01:45:04) – Grades(01:51:50) – Mithril(01:54:04) – James Litz(01:58:51) – The Woods Board(02:06:14) – The mentality of board climbing(02:10:58) – Monos(02:14:56) – How Andy trains on the Woods Board(02:27:30) – Where to climb on the Woods Board(02:29:08) – Iterating moves (“hangboard” boulder problems)(02:37:24) – Mirroring each try(02:41:57) – The Spot Battle(02:44:00) – Andy's garage(02:46:02) – Gyms in Vegas(02:54:10) – Routesetter Unions(03:07:06) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser
Dan Varian is a living legend in the bouldering scene. He's one of the founders of the iconic company Beastmaker and he's a prolific developer with who has FA'd 100's of boulders in the grade 8 (V11 and up).On top of that, Dan is one of the most thoughtful and experienced climber in the world on what it takes to climb at a high level, especially when it comes to the hands and fingers.This is an absolute masterclass and deep dive on elite level hand strength.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
这是陈凯的第三次上我的电台,Episodes 215 和250,之前也是聊攀岩和一些比较哲学的想法。今天他来聊做攀岩教练的一些观点,然后对沟通的一些看法。 想学攀岩的可以在 微信视频号和小红书搜:陈摩诘,穿黑色的头像。
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Board Talk' podcast!Boards have become a unique discipline and culture within climbing, so we created a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in board climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans and board lovers: Michael Rosato and Joshua Horsley.Some topics covered in this episode are:Board Lords episodes 6 and 7 Recent Moon YouTube on the OG board (2010!)Are Boards Morpho?Ethics and Style on BoardsThe WORLDS FIRST confirmed V15 on a BoardThe MOST repeated climb of any kind in the world.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Michael Rosato's InstagramBoard Lords #6Board Lords #7OG Moonboard VideoMadrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Noah Wheeler and Benn Wheeler are back on the pod! Tons of fun and insight from these two on what it takes to do the hardest boulders in the world.Also we get into Board Lord's Episode #7 where Noah competed with Hamish McArthur and SeanRHM.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Noah Wheeler's InstagramBenn Wheeler's InstagramWheel Rock PatreonWheel rock YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@Wheel_RockWheeler Brother's Testpiece EpisodeBoard Lords Episode #7Tension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In the second half of this two-part series, Ollie Torr is joined by international coach Jesse Firestone, Lattice coach Jemma Powell, and elite climbers Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts to delve deeper into the nuances of strength and conditioning in climbing.Jesse Firestone brings his expertise as a renowned U.S.-based climbing coach, known for his holistic approach to athlete development. Jemma Powell, a seasoned Lattice coach with over 25 years of climbing experience, shares insights from her work with climbers across various levels. Will Bosi and Aidan Roberts, both at the forefront of elite climbing, discuss how tailored strength and conditioning programs have influenced their performance and progression.Key Topics Covered:The importance of individualised training programs for climbers.Addressing the specific needs of female, older, and younger athletes in strength and conditioning.Strategies for integrating strength training without compromising climbing technique.Managing fatigue and recovery to optimise performance.Real-world experiences from elite climbers on balancing training and climbing.Join us as we explore these topics and more, providing valuable insights for climbers and coaches aiming to optimise performance through personalised strength and conditioning strategies.Listen to Part 2 now on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, or your preferred platform.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.
Good Temps is back! This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.Today's episode covers:Brooke Rabatou's FFA of Excalibur (15c)Adam Ondra flashing Lexicon (E11)Mount Doom (V17) and the importance of aesthetics, which leads to a discussion about how our sport actually progressesMellow Rock GamesControversy around Sung Su's sending Burden of Dreams (V17)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Show Notes:Amy's Links:Fifth Class ClimbingEpisode Intro:Dear listeners of the Female Guides Requested Podcast, happy Wednesday! I'm your host, Ting Ting. I'm currently working and playing in the Pacific Northwest, escaping the heat of Las Vegas. Early this year, I finally caught up with Amy Shore from Fifth Class Climbing, based in Bishop, California! And I'm excited to share our conversations with you.Amy grew up in North Dakota and spent her young adult years traveling the world while pursuing her college degree in International Studies. After finding climbing at the age of 21, it became her life's passion and has been a main focus of her life for almost two decades.Bouldering, sport & trad climbing, establishing big wall first ascents in the Sierra and Patagonia, guiding 14,000 ft peaks… Amy loves the vast array of disciplines that climbing allows one to pursue. Establishing Fifth Class Climbing School in 2016 allowed her the freedom to guide what really inspired her, which was not big mountain objectives, but rather women's events and courses that focus on teaching women to be independent climbers.In 2021, Amy became the lead safety manager for a National Geographic TV show, combining guiding with rigging and logistics, and traveling the world to do it.Most recently, Amy became a mom and now has a 20-month-old son. She still runs and guides for Fifth Class and is currently most interested in a new pursuit: projecting sport climbs. The day after our interview, Amy sent her first 5.13.Things We Talked about:From Whitney Base Camp to Fifth Class ClimbingWanted to work with different clientele to focus more on instructionsInstructed before she became a climberUpbringing – explored outdoors and tried different sportsTravel and then Travel & ClimbFrom pebble wrestling to big wallsMom & projecting single pitch sport climbsTraining entered her lifeGuiding is an empowering professionStarted her own business in 2016 – Fifth Class Climbing and SchoolRigging for TV showsChanges and transitions after having a kidWhy Amy loves logistical challenges Quotes:There's a small amount that is a part of me that likes to suffer and push myself and see what I can do.When you're in that kind of mindset of doing big wall first ascents and alpine climbing and then guiding, you're in a very much no fall territory.I get to be the places I love being. I get to teach and I get to give people an amazing experience that is maybe once in a lifetime for them. maybe get them hooked so that they're doing this all the time. and it was empoweringIt's nice to be able to facilitate programs that people are excited about offering and helping them make that happen through the permitting and stuff.As adults, we kind of take ourselves seriously and as a kid, you just do what you want to do. That risk tolerance thing changing [has] been a really interesting part of it for me. And sometimes I think it's good guiding wise because I do have a lower risk tolerance than I used to. And I think that I see things and maybe this is from spotting my son too, but I think I see things preemptively better than I used to.That's why I really like doing the rigging work and the TV work as well is that I think I logistics is kind of my jamI love hearing that kind of feedback after guiding. And it's a special industry we're in. we get to help people realize their dreams.
Obe Carrion is an absolute legend and one of the most iconic stars that rose during the early years of American bouldering.Obe has climbed, competed, and worked in every role climbing has to offer. And he always does it with the best of the best.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Obe Carrion's InstagramRampageMadrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord' series on their YouTube Channel.Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2.Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards.This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Michael's InstagramTestpiece Episode #102 with the Tension CrewJosh and Tim Trying The TB2Organic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn't his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line.Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the long haul.SHOW NOTES:Jonathan's InstagramErebor, 9bSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
News; Czech cinematography legend Vladimír Smutný dies at age 82; Climber Adam Ondra bids farewell to bouldering; Social Science graduate Martina Dvořáková's home equality audit.
Bruce 从爱尔兰回国一个月来聊聊两边的区别。爱尔兰和中国比,个方面都真的很卷。
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps' podcast!This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.SHOW NOTES:Carlo's InstagramWill's InstagramAustin's InstagramJosh's InstagramThe Dark Side MovieSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baarsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – Capentry(00:05:52) – Steven's cabin(00:07:06) – Intro to climbing(00:10:03) – Weekend warrior(00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks(00:20:51) – Goldmine(00:23:12) – “This is sick”(00:28:50) – Years of potential(00:34:47) – Summer & bugs(00:38:22) – Weather(00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice(00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks(00:55:10) – A day of developing(00:57:01) – Custom backpack(01:01:51) – Big Toe(01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders(01:12:30) – The Developer film(01:18:25) – Rock type & style(01:20:47) – Elliot Lake(01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities(01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA(01:39:06) – The Croc Block(01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders(01:47:56) – Hard projects(01:51:31) – More Nooks info(01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier(01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser
Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked, on his first session! Yes, that's right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours.Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it's a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Hamish's Last Testpiece Episode, #122Hamish's InstagramHamish Sending No One Mourns The Wicked [V17] In A SessionHamish Does The Second Ascent Of Megatron [V17]Madrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!).This episode was ‘snipped' from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Podcast [Part 1] with DaveDave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookDave's Journey To The Ketogenic DietDave Eating McDonalds EverydayTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Today I sit down with Denis Langlois — father, climber, and dedicated route developer. Like many of us he balances climbing with a busy life of work and family. Denis found that bouldering gave him the most freedom. It let him climb on his own schedule — quick sessions, solo missions, and total flexibility.One day, while commuting to a job site, he passed through a narrow canyon next to his home town in in British Columbia, Canada..and something caught his eye… boulders — tons of them. Unclimbed and Untouched. Denis knew he had to come back.Fast forward to today — thanks to his vision and the help of a few committed locals, the Fraser Canyon is now home to more than 80 established boulder problems, ranging from V0 to V10, with development still ongoing.In this episode, we dive into the deep and layered history of Fraser Canyon — from the Gold Rush to its roots in Indigenous land. Denis shares his personal journey in climbing, how he fell in love with the area, and what it's been like developing a climbing destination from scratch.He's also teamed up with video producer Jesse Wheeler to create a beautiful short film about the canyon and its development — be sure to check that out after the show.I love having route developers on this show — these are the folks literally giving back to the community by creating more places for us to climb and they usually do so out of their own pocket with their own passion… So if you're ever heading up to Squamish, looking to avoid the crowds and try something new, make a stop in Fraser Canyon. Check out the boulders, soak in the views, and if you can, give Denis a shout — as I am sure he'd be stoked to show you around.----HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! For a little as $5/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesKaya Climbing App (Download For Route Information)Short Film: Gold Rush: The Nuggets They Left BehindDenis' IGJesse's IG
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod.This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme's in his latest book, Moving The Needle.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads.SHOW NOTES:Dave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookOrganic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy's under his belt!Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass' climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy's. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons why climbing is viewed the way it is today.SHOW NOTES:Josh Lowell's InstagramReel Rock's InstagramReel Rock WebsiteRampage on YouTubeSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Kyra and Allison break down Kyra's performance at the first World Cup of the season, where she made semifinals and finished tied for 11th—a strong start to the year. The following weekend brought the season's first Lead World Cup, packed with fast-paced action and drama. From route setting and rule changes to performance mindset, they unpack it all with their insider perspective as athletes.
Weightlifting in climbing. It's one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we're diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.We're talking to:Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.Jemma Powell – Lattice coach and former GB climber. Jemma supports recreational and performance climbers, specialising in injury prevention, strength training and postpartum coaching.Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.You'll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he's not lifting right now—but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting—moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.We'll cover:Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performanceWhat female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength trainingPortable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-timeThe compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use themWhy “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbingWhether you're curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level.
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode.Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior'. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Tim Kang's InstagramFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangHamish McArthur Testpiece EpisodeMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma', the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma' which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn't grown as quickly as bouldering.And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.SHOW NOTES:Tyler's InstagramTyler's YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He's one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he's flashed up to V14. How's that for an intro?!Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he's been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.SHOW NOTES:BeastmakerBeastmakingFoxy ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she's a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14's this past year.Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17's in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he's just a ‘YouTuber' and not a ‘real climber'.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a textWe're joined by good friend and prolific creative, Caleb J. Ross, and learn all about his new card game for bouldering enthusiasts! Find out more at betabreakgame.com!Follow Caleb around the internet via linktr.eeSupport the show Find links for all things network related here: https://linktr.ee/polymedianetwork Find Travis on BlueSky Find Alex on BlueSky Send us an email drunkfriendpodcast@gmail.com Visit our Subreddit reddit.com/r/polymedia
In this episode (episode 50!!) Kyra and Allison debate and explain the new scoring system being implemented in IFSC and many other international and national events. There are big changes this year, where the old tops and zones format was changed to purely be point based. Kyra and Allison lightly disagree about how they define the "best" climber in a round; is it the climber getting the most tops or the climber consistently getting the farthest on all the climbs? Listen to find out! Comment to let us know your thoughts! Check out more on our Patreon at patreon.com/circleup
This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!SHOW NOTES:Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival's adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max's home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max's early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max's simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max's V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream
Jason Kehl is a hold shaper, iconclast, and highball bouldering legend, perhaps best known for his first ascent of Evilution in the Buttermilks. Today, he lives in El Paso, Texas, where he continues to establish first ascents all over Hueco Tanks. He is also continue to work with So Ill to create climbing holds. Our conversation traces the evolution of bouldering as a sport for misfits and outcasts to the conformist scene of today. But first, we respond to the tragic news of an ice-climbing death by asking some tough and perhaps irreconcilable questions about being a new climber, in which ambition can exceed experience, and how social media dynamics can make all of this worse. Last, a little amuse bouche of one of our favorite climbing songwriters, Chris Parker, who'll be joining us on stage in Boulder for our upcoming LIVE event on February 20. Show Notes Follow Jason Kehl on Instagram Jason Kehl's World of Illusions - Episode 8 - Hueco's Web Hueco Rehab - “Real Climbing Episode 5" Check out the Connect Board from So Ill Check out the latest holds from So Ill Ice Climber Dies in the Canadian Rockies -- Gripped