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Michael Rosato is the Director Of Marketing at Tension Climbing, and is also the host of the amazing ‘Board Lord' series on their YouTube Channel.Michael is also a board lord himself, with sends up to V13 on the TB2.Enjoy this deep dive into board culture, the different kinds of boards, and the future of boards.This episode is supported by ORGANIC CLIMBING! The best crash pads in the game, owned and operated by a single person who truly loves climbing.SHOW NOTES:Michael's InstagramTestpiece Episode #102 with the Tension CrewJosh and Tim Trying The TB2Organic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Jonathan Siegrist, aka J-Star, is one of the top sport climbers in the world, and he has been for at least a decade(s?). He recently sent another 9b in Italy, called Erebor. This wasn't his in his typical style and he shares how he trained for months before the trip specifically for this line.Jonathan is one of the most experienced and knowledgeable climbers in the game right now and he shares SO much in this chat. Both in how to reach your potential now, and how to be successful over the long haul.SHOW NOTES:Jonathan's InstagramErebor, 9bSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
News; Czech cinematography legend Vladimír Smutný dies at age 82; Climber Adam Ondra bids farewell to bouldering; Social Science graduate Martina Dvořáková's home equality audit.
News; Czech cinematography legend Vladimír Smutný dies at age 82; Climber Adam Ondra bids farewell to bouldering; Social Science graduate Martina Dvořáková's home equality audit.
Bruce 从爱尔兰回国一个月来聊聊两边的区别。爱尔兰和中国比,个方面都真的很卷。
Welcome to the first episode of the ‘Good Temps' podcast!This is a recurring podcast focused on the latest things happening in climbing and what it means for our sport from industry veterans: Carlo Traversi, Will Anglin, Austin Hoyt, and Joshua Horsley.SHOW NOTES:Carlo's InstagramWill's InstagramAustin's InstagramJosh's InstagramThe Dark Side MovieSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Oggi nuova puntata di Voice of Climbers speciale MELLOBLOCCO 2025! Ospite Caroline Ciavaldini, che ci racconta dei suoi workshop al femminile, del suo impegno come nuova coordinatrice del La Sportiva Climbing Team, e dei suoi progetti futuri.
Brendan Baars is a boulderer from Grand Rapids, MI, who has spent the past seven years developing a new bouldering area called The Nooks in Ontario, Canada. We talked about what a day of developing looks like, his go-to gear, how his big toe saved his life, the untapped potential in Canada, the reward of establishing and sharing new climbs, undone projects, the logistics of visiting The Nooks, his upcoming film The Developer, and much more.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Rúngne:rungne.info/nuggetUse code “NUGGET” for 10% off storewide, and use code “SHIPPINGNUGGETS” for free shipping.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.The GRINDS Program:thenuggetclimbing.comEnter your email to get a free PDF and log sheetBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/brendan-baarsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:10) – Capentry(00:05:52) – Steven's cabin(00:07:06) – Intro to climbing(00:10:03) – Weekend warrior(00:17:14) – Discovering The Nooks(00:20:51) – Goldmine(00:23:12) – “This is sick”(00:28:50) – Years of potential(00:34:47) – Summer & bugs(00:38:22) – Weather(00:40:01) – A new avenue & a sacrifice(00:50:02) – Sharing The Nooks(00:55:10) – A day of developing(00:57:01) – Custom backpack(01:01:51) – Big Toe(01:09:07) – Rope systems & ladders(01:12:30) – The Developer film(01:18:25) – Rock type & style(01:20:47) – Elliot Lake(01:33:39) – Logistics & amenities(01:36:42) – Guidebook & KAYA(01:39:06) – The Croc Block(01:41:54) – Top Nooks Boulders(01:47:56) – Hard projects(01:51:31) – More Nooks info(01:54:38) – The Canadian frontier(01:57:43) – Wrap up + EXTRA teaser
Hamish McArthur has been making huge headlines in the climbing world lately with his send of the highly sought after second ascent of Megatron [V17]. He quickly followed that up with another V17 second ascent of No One Mourns The Wicked, on his first session! Yes, that's right, Hamish sent a V17 in a few hours.Hamish is an incredible person through and through and it's a pleasure to get to peer into his process and hear about his path from “Good to Great”.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Hamish's Last Testpiece Episode, #122Hamish's InstagramHamish Sending No One Mourns The Wicked [V17] In A SessionHamish Does The Second Ascent Of Megatron [V17]Madrock Climbing, This Episode's SponsorSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Oggi vi proponiamo l'intervista registrata al MELLOBLOCCO 2025 a Siara Fabbri, climber statunitense da 8B+ e ricercatrice di Fisica Sperimentale al CERN.
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod (again!).This episode was ‘snipped' from the original, #158, and focuses on a nuanced discussion of nutrition. It felt very different from the other topics so we made it a standalone.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Podcast [Part 1] with DaveDave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookDave's Journey To The Ketogenic DietDave Eating McDonalds EverydayTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Today I sit down with Denis Langlois — father, climber, and dedicated route developer. Like many of us he balances climbing with a busy life of work and family. Denis found that bouldering gave him the most freedom. It let him climb on his own schedule — quick sessions, solo missions, and total flexibility.One day, while commuting to a job site, he passed through a narrow canyon next to his home town in in British Columbia, Canada..and something caught his eye… boulders — tons of them. Unclimbed and Untouched. Denis knew he had to come back.Fast forward to today — thanks to his vision and the help of a few committed locals, the Fraser Canyon is now home to more than 80 established boulder problems, ranging from V0 to V10, with development still ongoing.In this episode, we dive into the deep and layered history of Fraser Canyon — from the Gold Rush to its roots in Indigenous land. Denis shares his personal journey in climbing, how he fell in love with the area, and what it's been like developing a climbing destination from scratch.He's also teamed up with video producer Jesse Wheeler to create a beautiful short film about the canyon and its development — be sure to check that out after the show.I love having route developers on this show — these are the folks literally giving back to the community by creating more places for us to climb and they usually do so out of their own pocket with their own passion… So if you're ever heading up to Squamish, looking to avoid the crowds and try something new, make a stop in Fraser Canyon. Check out the boulders, soak in the views, and if you can, give Denis a shout — as I am sure he'd be stoked to show you around.----HELP SUPPORT THE SHOW & GET ACCESS TO EXCLUSIVE EPISODES! For a little as $5/mo!----Don't forget to check out our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---ResourcesKaya Climbing App (Download For Route Information)Short Film: Gold Rush: The Nuggets They Left BehindDenis' IGJesse's IG
You know him, you love him — Dave MacLeod.This episode focuses on boldness and risk in climbing, as well as some of the key theme's in his latest book, Moving The Needle.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY ORGANIC CLIMBING! Simply put, Organic makes the best and highest quality crashpads.SHOW NOTES:Dave MacLeod's InstagramDave MacLeod's YouTube ChannelMoving The Needle, Dave's Latest BookOrganic ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Josh Lowell is THE guy behind the camera and computer who has made all of your favorite climbing videos over the past 25+ years. He is one of the founders of Big UP Productions, Reel Rock, and was the director of The Dawn Wall. The guy even has 2 Emmy's under his belt!Josh shares all of his amazing stories from starting out as an OG dirtbag, picking up his first camera to show the world how ‘badass' climbing is, all the way through winning Emmy's. This guy is a legend and is one of the reasons why climbing is viewed the way it is today.SHOW NOTES:Josh Lowell's InstagramReel Rock's InstagramReel Rock WebsiteRampage on YouTubeSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Kyra and Allison break down Kyra's performance at the first World Cup of the season, where she made semifinals and finished tied for 11th—a strong start to the year. The following weekend brought the season's first Lead World Cup, packed with fast-paced action and drama. From route setting and rule changes to performance mindset, they unpack it all with their insider perspective as athletes.
Weightlifting in climbing. It's one of the most debated topics in the sport, and we're diving into it with the people who coach the best in the world.In this two-part conversation-style series, host Ollie Torr is joined by an expert panel of performance coaches and elite athletes to explore the evolving role of weightlifting in climbing, looking at strength, injury prevention, mindset, and longevity in the sport.We're talking to:Steve Thompson – Lecturer and Head of Strength and Conditioning at Sheffield Hallam University. UKSCA-accredited coach with research expertise in resistance training, periodisation and performance. Steve also works with GB Diving and professional football teams.Dave Mason – Former GB team athlete and IFSC World Cup competitor, now elite outdoor climber and coach. Dave has worked with climbers from youth squads to elite performers, blending strength training with movement and mindset.Jemma Powell – Lattice coach and former GB climber. Jemma supports recreational and performance climbers, specialising in injury prevention, strength training and postpartum coaching.Jesse Firestone – US-based coach and founder of JFire Climbing. Jesse offers personalised, sustainable coaching for climbers of all levels, including elite competitive and outdoor climbers, focusing on holistic progress and long-term development.You'll also hear real-life experiences from athletes at the top of the sport:Aidan Roberts breaks down how he stays strong on the road with portable training and why specificity beats max effort. Will Bosi shares why he's not lifting right now—but might again soon. Drew Ruana gives insight into his use of lifting for power, endurance, and competition prep.In Part 1, we explore how climbers and coaches are rethinking lifting—moving beyond outdated fears of bulking and into smarter, tailored training for every phase of the season.We'll cover:Why climbers are finally embracing strength work (and who needs it most)How top-level athletes integrate lifting without compromising performanceWhat female climbers should consider with hormones, pregnancy, and strength trainingPortable solutions: what athletes like Aidan use while travelling full-timeThe compound lifts that actually carry over to climbing, and how to use themWhy “doing less” might be the smartest thing for your climbingWhether you're curious about hypertrophy, looking to prevent injuries, or trying to train sustainably, this episode offers insight for climbers of every level.
Tim, my dude, [aka Tim Kang] is back on the pod for another fun episode.Tim and Josh talk about the latest big news stories in climbing and then get into their latest climbing experience. For Tim that means sending Trieste, an iconic Red Rocks V14, while being a ‘weekend warrior'. For Josh that means his recent big trip to the historic bouldering Mecca that is Fontainebleau.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's motto is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Tim Kang's InstagramFocus: A Bishop Highball Project with Tim KangHamish McArthur Testpiece EpisodeMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #154 was finished. Kevin Thibault and Josh go deep on the legendary ‘Karma', the current development happening in Font, skin management, and the issues of weight vs performance.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Kevin Thibault is a fixture in the Fontainebleau scene. He grew up there, started climbing there, and continues to climb there for almost 40 years now!It runs in the family too, his Dad climbed there and was the one who brushed the legendary ‘Karma' which was sent by Fred Nicole and became one of the most famous boulder problems in the world.Hear from Kevin all about Fontainebleau, what makes it special, and what it has taught him in his journey deep into the 8th grade.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn't grown as quickly as bouldering.And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.SHOW NOTES:Tyler's InstagramTyler's YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Ned Feehally is an absolute legend from the UK. He's one of the founders of the iconic climbing company, Beastmaker, and he's flashed up to V14. How's that for an intro?!Ned also wrote one of the best books on training — “Beastmaking”, and lately he's been working on 2 new companies he started with his wife, Shauna Coxsey, “Foxy Climbing” and “Mini Beasts”.SHOW NOTES:BeastmakerBeastmakingFoxy ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Shauna Coxsey is an 2x All Around Bouldering World Cup Winner, an 11x Gold Medalist, An Olympian, The First British Woman to do V12, V13, V14, and she's a Mom. Since becoming a Mom, Shauna is back in top form and quickly sending multiple V14's this past year.Shauna is an incredible athlete in every sense of the word and in this episode she shows exactly what makes her so incredible.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Mad Rock! Mad Rock's mottos is “CLIMBING SHOULD BE FOR EVERYBODY! Innovative, highly technical and affordable climbing shoes and gear.”SHOW NOTES:Shauna Coxsey InstagramShauna Sending Mito (8B+/V14)Foxy ClimbingMad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17's in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Emil Abrahamsson is one of the most famous climbers today because of his incredibly popular YouTube channel. Some of his videos have been viewed over 10 million times!Emil also is an incredibly strong climber with sends as hard as V15.Find out how Emil balance YouTube with his love of climbing and how he responds to those that say he's just a ‘YouTuber' and not a ‘real climber'.THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a textWe're joined by good friend and prolific creative, Caleb J. Ross, and learn all about his new card game for bouldering enthusiasts! Find out more at betabreakgame.com!Follow Caleb around the internet via linktr.eeSupport the show Find links for all things network related here: https://linktr.ee/polymedianetwork Find Travis on BlueSky Find Alex on BlueSky Send us an email drunkfriendpodcast@gmail.com Visit our Subreddit reddit.com/r/polymedia
In this episode (episode 50!!) Kyra and Allison debate and explain the new scoring system being implemented in IFSC and many other international and national events. There are big changes this year, where the old tops and zones format was changed to purely be point based. Kyra and Allison lightly disagree about how they define the "best" climber in a round; is it the climber getting the most tops or the climber consistently getting the farthest on all the climbs? Listen to find out! Comment to let us know your thoughts! Check out more on our Patreon at patreon.com/circleup
This is a continuation of the last episode with Kenny, #147. Please listen to that episode first for context!Kenny and Josh hop back on to explore even more drama and links between Mad Rock and 5.10, Evolv, Butora, Red Chili, Black Diamond, So iLL, La Sportiva, Scarpa, Mammut, Edelrid, Yosemite Bum, Cypher... did we forget anyone? Oh ya, Unparrallel! You can't miss that one...Enjoy this deep dive on the usually opaque world of climbing gear manufacturing!SHOW NOTES:Kenny's Previous Episode On Testpiece, #147Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Kenny Suh is the CEO of Mad Rock.Kenny tells us all of the behind the scenes of how climbing shoes are made, WHO actually makes them, the impossible tradeoffs in rubber, how shoes will be made in the future, and some of the innovations of the past and the potential ones in the future.Really fun one that exposes the behind the scenes of shoe making and sheds a surprising light on what's actually going on.SHOW NOTES:Kenny Suh InstagramArticle About Young Chu (Mad Rock's Founder)Mad Rock InstagramMad Rock WebsiteSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Chris Weidner just sent his first 14c at the young age of 50 years old. Hidden beneath that spectacular achievement is a pyramid of climbing all over the world in many different styles, from FA'ing multi pitch 5.13 trad to summiting mountains in Alaska and Argentina. All of this started when he became member #112 at the first climbing gym in the US!You'll also recognize Chris' voice from his years as a commentator for US Nationals and Psicobloc competitions.SHOW NOTES:Chris' InstagramChris on The Green Mile (14c) by LT11Chris on the FA of Galmbers Fallacy (13b multi pitch FA) by LT11Kong Extendo Cheater DrawSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is a behind the scenes discussion with Chris Schulte, right after Episode #144 was finished. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #144 for context!SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte's InstagramChris Schulte's Black Diamond PageChris Schulte's Testpiece Episode #144Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Max Didier is a Chilean big wall climber and alpinist turned boulderer. We talked about leaving the Air Force to climb, the value of exploration and adventure, his trip to India, maintaining simplicity in life, becoming a bouldering coach, the balance of strength and technique, his training routine, training with intention, mindset and motivation, enjoying the process, starting late, finding your passion, his futuristic project, and more.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Learn more about Revival's adjustable climbing walls and landing systems.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for 10% off your order.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/max-didierNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:09) – Chiloé Island(00:04:05) – Max's home gym & coaching(00:06:30) – The Air Force(00:13:22) – Climbing for the first time(00:18:36) – Quitting the Air Force(00:21:10) – How Max improved so quickly(00:25:02) – Yosemite & the beauty of climbing(00:30:40) – Max's early finger training(00:35:20) – India(00:49:24) – Simplifying & kids(00:53:54) – Sofia(00:56:06) – Climbing areas in Chile(00:59:42) – Facundo Langbehn(01:01:28) – Becoming a boulderer(01:06:46) – The complexity of strength(01:13:49) – Hangboarding vs. board climbing(01:18:31) – Max's simple strength workout(01:26:36) – Example training week(01:30:02) – Consistency & intention(01:35:49) – Focusing on enjoying the process(01:47:27) – Believing in yourself(01:55:43) – Adapting your sessions(02:00:26) – Advice for climbers who started late(02:05:28) – How to find your passion(02:15:22) – Max's V16 or V17 project(02:22:37) – Future plans(02:24:02) – Favorite training music(02:24:50) – Go-to climbing shoes(02:25:29) – Pre-send ritual(02:28:43) – Favorite rock type(02:30:20) – Moonboard 2016(02:33:00) – Favorite climbing film(02:34:10) – Chilean climbing destinations(02:35:59) – Photography(02:38:04) – Patagonia(02:38:54) – Follow your dream
Chris Schulte has been there and FA'd that. You may know of Chris, but you probably haven't met him because Chris likes to stay off the beaten path. Way off the beaten path! In this episode Chris drops so much knowledge and history about climbing that no matter who you are you'll enjoy some new stories that you haven't heard before.SHOW NOTES:Chris Schulte's InstagramChris Schulte's Black Diamond PageJosh on French Tickler in Hueco (filmed by Chris)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Send us a textIn this episode, Ollie Torr is joined by Aidan Roberts, Andy Cave, Maddy Cope, Tom Herbert, and Dr. Ed Gibson-Smith to explore one of the most debated supplements in climbing—creatine. Does it actually help climbers perform better, or is it just another fitness industry fad?The panel breaks down the science and real-world applications of creatine, tackling common questions and misconceptions. Who benefits most? Does it improve power and endurance, or could it even hinder performance? How do diet and training style affect its effectiveness? And what about the infamous "flash pump"—is it a genuine concern or just gym bro nonsense?Ollie even puts creatine to the test himself:
Simon Lorenzi has done more V17's on the planet than anyone other than Will Bosi (3 vs 4). And by the time you read this, there's a good chance Simon has another one or two under his belt!That's because we chatted with Simon during his trip to Red Rocks where he is working on Return Of The Sleepwalker and Shaolin, the two V17's there.This was an INCREDIBLE conversation with one of the best boulderers in the world. This is a must listen!If you loved Simon as much as we do, we've got great news… you can get trained by him through his company Bushido Climbing!SHOW NOTES:Bushido ClimbingSimon Lorenzi's InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Kyra is joined by Dan Beall (who's stepping in for Allison while she's off crushing boulders in Vegas) and together they dive into the moments when they first saw major breakthroughs in their own climbing and talk about what they believe made the difference. Then, they explore a common challenge among climbers: truly trying hard. Many unknowingly hold themselves back in training, stopping short of their full potential because unlocking 100% effort can be uncomfortable and . Kyra and Dan share insights on how to push harder, embrace a "glass half full" mindset, and get the most out of every session. Loved this episode? Head over to Patreon for an exclusive extension—free for all members! patreon.com/circleup
Jason Kehl is a hold shaper, iconclast, and highball bouldering legend, perhaps best known for his first ascent of Evilution in the Buttermilks. Today, he lives in El Paso, Texas, where he continues to establish first ascents all over Hueco Tanks. He is also continue to work with So Ill to create climbing holds. Our conversation traces the evolution of bouldering as a sport for misfits and outcasts to the conformist scene of today. But first, we respond to the tragic news of an ice-climbing death by asking some tough and perhaps irreconcilable questions about being a new climber, in which ambition can exceed experience, and how social media dynamics can make all of this worse. Last, a little amuse bouche of one of our favorite climbing songwriters, Chris Parker, who'll be joining us on stage in Boulder for our upcoming LIVE event on February 20. Show Notes Follow Jason Kehl on Instagram Jason Kehl's World of Illusions - Episode 8 - Hueco's Web Hueco Rehab - “Real Climbing Episode 5" Check out the Connect Board from So Ill Check out the latest holds from So Ill Ice Climber Dies in the Canadian Rockies -- Gripped
Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast and this time he brought a friend, Rob Hunter! Rob and Tyler are both seasoned experts in training high level athletes in their businesses, My Therapy Physio and Performance and Camp 4 Human Performance.This chat came about because Tyler worked with Rob to help him prepare for a V14/15 project and in doing so Rob nearly doubled his finger strength on an overcoming isometric test. That's a big deal, but what makes this an even bigger deal is that Rob is a V14 climber, 48 years old, and has 30+ years of hard training already under his belt. Rob is no stranger to training either as he recently retired as the Head Coach of the Irish Climbing Team, and has a degree in Sport Therapy.Tune in to hear more about the subtle change in finger training the was so successful for Rob. How “squeezing the lemon” can help with finger strength gains while simultaneously reducing injury risk and total fatigue. Learn about why we should focus on muscular adaptations during our training rather than connective tissue ones. And how intention is the key to strength gains instead of absolute numbers.Look below at the Show Notes for videos that help demonstrate the training talked about in the episode.SHOW NOTES:Rob Hunter's InstagramTyler Nelson's InstagramRob's Business, My Therapy PhysioTyler's Company, Camp 4 Human PerformanceTyler's YouTube ChannelTyler's Demonstration Of Overcoming IsometricsSqueezing The Lemon / Orange DemonstrationTyler's Demonstration Of “Finger Curling”Tyler's Previous Testpiece Episode, #114Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #140 was finished. Austin Hoyt shares his thoughts on the Lucid Dreaming, The Process, Devilution, The ‘Earvo' Project, and how they all compare to one another. Austin and Josh talk about why those grades settled the way they did and if that will change in the future.Austin also talks about a well known project that seems to go and be V18.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #140 for context!SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt's Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/hoyt.austin/Austin Hoyt's / Veez YouTube Channel: https://www.youtube.com/@ClimbveezAustin Hoyt's Testpiece Episode #140: https://youtu.be/i2unRIlVdHkSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
我们都爱这个运动肯定是有原因的,现在攀岩馆多了,这对我们岩友是一件好事吗?
Austin Hoyt is one of the young guns out of the North East crew that has been absolutely crushing lately.Austin recently FA'd the North East's first V15, Big Bad Wolf, as well as sent Lucid Dreaming [V15+] using a new ‘double-clutch' beta for the iconic crux move.Austin shares a ton about what makes the North East special and why it's been producing some of the strongest climbers, such as his close friends Noah Wheeler, Benn Wheeler, and Adam Shahar who have also recently been on the podcast.SHOW NOTES:Austin Hoyt's InstagramAustin Hoyt's / Veez YouTube ChannelIssac Leff's YouTube ChannelBeta labs (Austin's Company)Mad RockDecoy HoldsMimic HoldsTestpiece Podcasts Mentioned:Noah and Benn WheelerAdam ShaharRoss FulkersonSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Ollie Torr sits down with world-class climber Will Bosi, fresh off his impressive ascent of Excalibur (9b+). Will delves into the intricacies of his multi-year journey with the route, sharing insights into the beta refinements and the patience required to conquer one of the world's most challenging climbs. They discuss the significance of micro-beta adjustments, the balance between power and endurance, and the mental fortitude needed to tackle such formidable projects.Beyond Excalibur, Will reflects on his broader climbing journey, including his transition from competition climbing to outdoor pursuits. He shares experiences from notable ascents such as La Capella (9b) and his first ascent of King Capella (9b+) in Siurana, Spain. The conversation also touches on his groundbreaking repeats of some of the world's hardest boulder problems, including Burden of Dreams (V17) and Return of the Sleepwalker (V17), highlighting his versatility and dedication across climbing disciplines.Key Takeaways:Beta Breakthroughs: Discover how micro-adjustments in positioning and technique can unlock new levels of performance.Balancing Power & Endurance: Learn about the unique challenges presented by short, intense routes and how to train for them.Managing Conditions & Patience: Understand the importance of adapting to environmental factors and maintaining patience throughout long-term projects.Transitioning from Competition to Outdoor Climbing: Gain insights into Will's journey from the competition circuit to achieving remarkable feats on natural rock.Future Aspirations: Hear about Will's upcoming projects, including potential trips to Flatanger to explore routes like Silence (9c) and his ambitions within the UK climbing scene.
This episode is brought to you by Mad Rock! Mad Rock is run by REAL climbers, and that's why they supported Ross Fulkerson and Testpiece to go on an awesome trip to Mallorca where they filmed “Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”.Between the Tides is a deep-water-soloing film that follows Mad Rock athlete Ross Fulkerson as he climbs above the Mediterranean on some of Mallorca's newest lines. With short weather windows, Ross uses lessons learned from the world of comp-climbing to make the most of the climbing between heavy rain and big swells.This podcast gives a behind the scenes look at the creation of the video and fills in all the gaps that a 20 minute video can't quite capture.SHOW NOTES:“Between The Tides ft. Ross Fulkerson”Filmed and Edited by Raul OnyettRoss Fulkerson's InstagramRoss Fulkerson's YouTubeRoss' Previous Testpiece Episodes:Podcast #3Podcast #4 Podcast #124 Podcast #133Mad RockSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #137 was finished. Kai Whaley shares a bit more about some of the projects left in Red Rocks, his favorite place to climb in the world, his ticklist for some upcoming trips, and the differences between being a ‘good ‘climber and a ‘strong' climber.We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #137 for context!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley's InstagramKai Whaley's YouTubeKai Whaley's Episode, #137Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
“What up gangstas and shorties, it's your boy, Kai."Kai Whaley is best known for his amazing YouTube Channel where he has been vlogging his sessions on Return Of The Sleepwalker (V17) and Shaolin (V17). He is close on both of them, especially ROTSW, and it wouldn't be surprising if by the time you read this he's sent!Kai is currently 18 and is unofficially the youngest person to ever climb V10, V12, and V16. And if he climbs one of those V17's in the next few years, he'll also take the title for V17.Kai's YouTube is popular because he is funny, authentic, and an all around good guy (along with being insanely strong). He lives up to all of those attributes and more on this episode!SHOW NOTES:Kai Whaley's InstagramKai Whaley's YouTubeBoard Climb's mentioned in the episode:“Black Widow”, Moonboard 2024“Extendo Clip”, TB2 V13 @ 45“Menacing Creation”, TB2Brian Squire's Board AccountVideos mentioned in the podcast:Off LeashA Little LifeSqu(h)amishTestpiece Podcasts mentioned in the episode:Adam Shahar's episodeMartin Keller's episodeDavid Fitzgerald's episode #1 and #2Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Tim Kang (my dude) is back on Testpiece to discuss the incredible sending spree the youth have gone on these past few months. V17 is just the norm now, and V15's are just for fun and flash attempts.Tim and Josh also discuss what the future may hold in terms of grading, whether 15d is harder or easier than V17, and Tim shares what he things is the best highball in the world as well as what his next highball project may be.Episodes with Tim are always fun and full of hot takes. Enjoy!SHOW NOTES:Timothy Kang's InstagramTimothy Kang's YouTubeFocus - A Bishop Highball ProjectTim's Best Day, Testpiece PodcastTim's Most Recent Testpiece PodcastNoah Wheeler's Testpiece PodcastAdam Shahar's Testpiece PodcastSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
This is the behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #134 was finished. Zach Galla shares a bit more about some 9A's / V17's he's tried, the project he's currently most psyched on it, how he used simulators to train for The Process (V16), and who he thinks will get the third ascent of it.We hope you enjoy this peak into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!Don't miss Episode #134 for context!SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla's InstagramThe Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77Previous Zach Galla Tespitece Episode #134Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Dave MacLeod is one of the best all-around climbers in the world. He returns to the podcast to talk about his new book, Moving the Needle. We discuss the simple decisions that led to his success, getting the basics right, how to climb harder in your 40s, the value of daydreaming, writing books, how diet affects mood, Paul Saladino's meat and fruit approach, how to thrive on a keto diet, metabolic health, LCL cholesterol, seed oils, alcohol, the state of scientific research, and much more. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the Psiphon and Serratus Alpine Kits launching January 15th.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.The NUG:frictitiousclimbing.com/products/the-nugCheck out my new portable hangboard.Tindeq:tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan LiuShow Notes: thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/dave-macleod-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:02:34) – Themes for the today's podcast(00:04:59) – ‘Moving the Needle'(00:10:54) – How curiosity feeds consistency(00:17:44) – Simple decisions that move the needle(00:21:55) – Time x mileage x variety(00:34:09) – Balancing projecting & volume(00:41:08) – Tree crimping(00:43:50) – Almost daily training(00:49:08) – The basics(01:00:38) – When to end bouldering sessions(01:06:38) – Rolling with the punches(01:13:31) – Managing training load & staying in the game(01:24:43) – Finger training(01:30:09) – An unlikely breakthrough (FA of ‘Bultitude' V14)(01:37:09) – Finger strength PRs(01:43:42) – How to climb harder in your 40s(01:59:54) – Taking short breaks(02:02:56) – Daydreaming(02:05:30) – Making it hard to fail(02:13:27) – One thing at a time(02:17:19) – Writing books(02:25:25) – Factors that led to sending ‘Rhapsody' E11(02:32:16) – Books vs. podcasts(02:34:35) – Confidence & conflict(02:42:06) – Dave's experiment with a Western Diet(02:46:48) – How our diet can affect mood(02:52:26) – Paul Saladino, keto, fruit, & metabolic health(03:10:37) – Why Dave keeps coming back to keto(03:15:52) – How much protein Dave eats on keto(03:19:36) – Energy & weight management(03:26:40) – LDL Cholesterol(03:40:25) – Kitavan Islanders, heart disease, & lifestyle factors(03:46:51) – Seed oils & alcohol(03:49:25) – A need for unbiased scientific research(03:54:50) Where to buy Dave's book
Zach Galla is back after an insanely amazing year. Catch Zach's first Testpiece Episode, #77, here.Since we last chatted he's been traveling the world with the goal of climbing the best hard boulders in the world. And boy did he achieve that goal… Get the blow by blow breakdown of Zach's second ascent of the iconic “The Process”, V16, one of the proudest and most beautiful V16's in the world that sat for 10 years waiting for Zach after Daniel Woods FA'd it. This could have been a podcast in itself but Zach did many more proud V15's all over the world and FA'd a new V16 in LCC called "Sosa"!Zach also recently partnered with Black Diamond and joined a team called “BD Hex”. Hear more about the core climbing companies that are quickly growing and supporting the sport we all love.SHOW NOTES:Zach Galla's InstagramPrevious Zach Galla Testpiece Episode #77The Process, V16, SA by Galla on MellowPretty Tall on MellowBest Believe It on TensionLost Tapes on MellowUnstoppable by Chief KeefLove Sosa by Chief KeefConfluence on MellowDelayMyBelay on InstagramAustin Ernst on InstagramZach Galla's Board AccountBrain Squire's Board AccountBD Hex TeamBD Hex InstagramToinon BeigneNoah KeithleySean FaulknerFinn StackBobby VannoyAntigravNoiseSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this brief episode, I invite you to join my "Send 2025" New Year's Challenge! JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> I designed this free 6-week challenge to help motivate and inspire a fresh, focused, and optimistic start to the new year...and hopefully help you set off on your best year ever! The challenge is action-oriented -- so we'll ask you to set some achievable short-term goals to reach for during the 6-weeks of the challenge. These action items can relate to your training and nutrition goals for the new year, but also target bad habits you'd like to change…or other behaviors that are holding you back from reaching the next level in climbing, in your career or relationships, or any other important life area. To serve as your North Star for this challenge, we will ask you to select a specific "Challenge Goal" for the 6 weeks of the contest, as well as set a "Send 2025 Mega Goal" that you'll be working towards throughout the year ahead. We hope that with our encouragement and support you will reach all your goals big or small! ************************************* JOIN the SEND 2025 CHALLENGE by filling out this brief Google Form >> ************************************* SUPPORT THE TRAINING FOR CLIMBING PODCAST! Visit our sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition at PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.
Fred Nicole's name is synonymous with hard bouldering. The dude is legend, responsible for establishing the world's first V14 and first V15, always while bringing an artistic, quiet approach that has defined the soul of bouldering for over four decades. Today Fred works as a shoe designer for So Ill, and continues to explore the forests of his native Switzerland—among other areas around the world—for new boulders that capture his imagination. But first, Chris shares some stories about an escape to what's arguably the best rock in the country, the New River Gorge. Our Final Bit is from none other than Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb 5.15. This song is called Jaded and it's off her new album Notes to You. Show Notes Follow Fred Nicole on Instagram Fred Nicole interview with UP Climbing Dreamtime on Youtube Follow Margo Hayes on Instagram Listen to Notes to You wherever you get your music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com