Podcasts about Adam Ondra

Czech climber

  • 88PODCASTS
  • 181EPISODES
  • 52mAVG DURATION
  • 1EPISODE EVERY OTHER WEEK
  • May 12, 2025LATEST
Adam Ondra

POPULARITY

20172018201920202021202220232024


Best podcasts about Adam Ondra

Latest podcast episodes about Adam Ondra

Liberec
Zprávy pro Liberecký kraj: Ve stopách Adama Ondry. V Liberci soutěží děti o postup do boje o Boulder Pohár

Liberec

Play Episode Listen Later May 12, 2025 3:12


Přední liberecký lezecký klub Racoons LK Boulder pořádá třetí květnový týden 10. ročník Školního Boulder Poháru 2025 pro děti, které si chtějí vyzkoušet jednu z moderních lezeckých disciplín - bouldering, kterou proslavil dnes už legendární Adam Ondra.

Klettern - einfach festhalten
Springen beim Bouldern: Zwischen Risiko und Erfolg | Folge 79

Klettern - einfach festhalten

Play Episode Listen Later Apr 29, 2025 39:03


Sprünge gehören heute immer öfter zum Bouldern dazu, doch viele scheuen sich davor. In dieser Folge spreche ich darüber, warum Sprünge häufiger geschraubt werden, welche Vorteile und Gefahren sie mit sich bringen, und wie du Technik, Koordination und Sturzverhalten verbessern kannst. Außerdem bekommst du praktische Tipps, worauf du beim Springen achten solltest, um sicherer und besser zu werden.______________Instagram Aktion:Teile deine Lieblingsfolge meines Podcasts in deiner Instagram-Story, markiere mich dabeiund erhalte als Dankeschön ein exklusives Geschenk!Je nach Reichweite, die dein Account auf Instagram hat, bekommst du:Unter 10.000 Follower: Ein Hangboard-Trainingsmodell deiner Wahl als PDF10.000 bis 50.000 Follower: Eine ausführliche TechnikanalyseÜber 50.000 Follower: Einen individuellen Trainingsplan für 12 WochenWichtig: Bitte kennzeichne deine Story mit „Werbung wegen Geschenk“, damit alles transparent bleibt.Hinweis: Diese Aktion steht in keiner Verbindung zu Instagram.Ich freue mich riesig auf deine Lieblingsfolgen und bin gespannt auf deine Storys!____________Exklusive Trainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠_______________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitereAthleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

Klettern - einfach festhalten
Hangboard-Training: dein Weg zu mehr Fingerkraft | Folge 75

Klettern - einfach festhalten

Play Episode Listen Later Apr 8, 2025 47:20


Hangboard-Training ist wohl eine der besten Methoden, um stärker zu werden und sein Leistungsniveau zu verschieben. Doch natürlich gibt es nicht nur eine Möglichkeit, am Hangboard zu trainieren. Wäre auch merkwürdig, immerhin gibt es auch nicht nur eine Methode, um Kraft zu trainieren. Die Frage ist immer: Welche Art von Kraft brauche ich, wo liegen meine Defizite, und wenn ich das weiß, kann ich auch die richtige Wahl für das Hangboard-Training treffen. Egal ob IK-, Maximum Weight-, Minimum Edge-, intermittierende Ausdauer- oder intensive Intervallmethode, in dieser Folge tauchen alle auf, und ich erkläre dir, wie du das richtige Trainingsmodell für dich auswählst, was du dafür brauchst und worauf du bei dem Ganzen achten solltest.____________Exklusive Trainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠_________________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitereAthleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

Klettern - einfach festhalten
Go big or go home & Längenzüge | Folge 74

Klettern - einfach festhalten

Play Episode Listen Later Apr 1, 2025 22:00


Die Macht der Suggestion. Im Kopf aufzugeben, bevor ich physisch erledigt bin, oder aus Scham nicht an schwere Züge zu gehen, ist eine riesige Blockade für meine Entwicklung.Längenzüge existieren, sollten mich aber nicht aufhalten, die Route zu schaffen.____________ExklusiveTrainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠ ____________________________________________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitere Athleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

TESTPIECE Climbing
#150 [BONUS] Emil Abrahamsson — Long Term YouTube Goals, Recommendations To The Pro's, Will Ondra Flash V15?, and The # Of V17's In The World

TESTPIECE Climbing

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 28, 2025 18:02


This is a behind the scenes discussion right after Episode #149 was finished. Emil shares his longterm goals for YouTube and climbing media in general. Emil shares what he thinks current pro climbers could do better in the media space. Josh and Emil also discuss the number of V17's in the world as well as the possibility of Adam Ondra flashing V15 or doing V18. We hope you enjoy this peek into what happens right after episodes are “finished”!THIS EPISODE IS SUPPORTED BY Tension Climbing! Tension makes the best climbing training tools on the planet.SHOW NOTES:Emil's InstagramEmil's YouTube ChannelTension ClimbingSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Klettern - einfach festhalten
Weiches Greifen, Entlastet Treten & Fußwechsel

Klettern - einfach festhalten

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 25, 2025 11:01


Heute ist der Name Programm. Eine Folge mit drei Techniken und wie du diese verbessern kannst. ____________Exklusive Trainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠__________________________________________________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitere Athleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

Klettern - einfach festhalten
Time under Tension, Satellitenzellen & exzentrische Belastung für den Muskelaufbau | Folge 72

Klettern - einfach festhalten

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 18, 2025 16:29


Die Zeit unter Spannung, die ein Muskel während des Krafttrainings verbringt, ist nicht ganz unwichtig. In dieser Folge geht es hauptsächlich um Time under Tension, mit einem Schwank zu den Satellitenzellen und der Bedeutung exzentrischer Belastungen im Muskelaufbautraining. Als Kletterer*innen und Boulderer*innen wollen wir immer so effektiv wie möglich trainieren, insbesondere wenn wir spezifisch trainieren. Auf diesem langen Weg zum optimalen Kletter- und Bouldertraining sollte diese Folge nicht fehlen. ____________Exklusive Trainingsfolgen, Trainingspläne, Technikanalysen & Kletterdesigns findest du auf meiner Webseite: ⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠https://einfachfesthalten.de/⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠Um meinen Podcast zu unterstützen, kannst du jederzeit etwas per PayPal an marvin.weinhold@gmail.com spenden oder Steady nutzen, um meinen Podcast am Leben zu erhalten.Steady:⁠⁠⁠⁠⁠https://steadyhq.com/de/einfachfesthalten/about?utm_campaign=discover_search&utm_source=steady_discover⁠⁠⁠⁠______________________________________________________Insbesondere Spitzenathleten wie Alexander Megos, Alex Honnold, Adam Ondra, Shauna Coxsey, Jessica Pilz, Jakob Schubert, Akiyo Noguchi, Tomoa Narasaki und viele weitere Athleten*innen wissen, wie man optimal trainiert. Mein Ziel in diesem Podcast ist es unter anderem, dir den Weg zu ebnen, ebenfalls effektiv und mit einem optimalen Training Spitzenleistungen zu erbringen.

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 263: Adam Ondra — A Conversation With the Best Climber in the World

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 10, 2025 111:36


Adam Ondra is the greatest climber of all time. We talked about his trip to Smith Rock in 2018, onsighting Just Do It, what he was like as a kid, his 9c projects, Soudain Seul 9A, the Imhotep project, how he trains for long boulders vs routes, the Olympics, The Dawn Wall, climbing ethics, the monster within, why he thinks he can push his level for 7 more years, and much more.Rúngne:core-api.club.co/s/mgJAdCRcYDhTk

Une demi-heure en Tchéquie
Une demi-heure en Tchéquie (13.02.2025)

Une demi-heure en Tchéquie

Play Episode Listen Later Feb 13, 2025 28:39


À Fontainebleau, un Adam Ondra de nouveau au sommet de son art - Jan Werich, l'œuvre littéraire d'un immense comédien

Radio Prague - Français
Une demi-heure en Tchéquie (13.02.2025)

Radio Prague - Français

Play Episode Listen Later Feb 13, 2025 28:39


À Fontainebleau, un Adam Ondra de nouveau au sommet de son art - Jan Werich, l'œuvre littéraire d'un immense comédien

The Struggle Climbing Show
Magnus Midtbø: How to Improve Indoors, Are Kneepads Aid, and His Insane Training Plan

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Feb 5, 2025 69:12


Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Elite climber Magnus Midtbø explores: Adam Ondra's lost Dawn Wall footage Climbing with PewDiePie and what we can learn from it How to improve on comp style dynamic and coordination problems in the gym  Adam Ondra's secret finger nail tip Building a successful YT empire, clothing brand, and more Learnings from training with Alex Megos  Are rest days actually important How kneepads are totally changing the game What's more important, flexibility or finger strength Magnus's insane training week - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. Rúngne: Use code STRUGGLE20 in February to score 20% off your chalk order! Or code STRUGGLE for 15% off everything store wide.  5-Year Training and Performance Journal: The most important climbing tool I use! Takes just a few minutes each day, and yields amazing insights year after year. If you're psyched on training and performance, this is the journal for you. Log, reflect, send. And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!   

The Struggle Climbing Show
Adam Ondra: New Mega Projects, Comp Retirement, Kneepad Hot Takes, and is Terranova V17?

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 8, 2025 58:27


Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Adam Ondra explores: His process with Jakob and friends on DNA (5.15d / 9c) Being motivated by friendly competition The recent sends of Change and Move by Alex Megos and others Kneepads and their impact on modern climbing and grades of old classics Silence vs B.I.G. and which is the king line Is he retiring from comp climbing? The new Ondra Comp shoe, and what is "smedging" Is Terranova harder than V16... and can Will Bosi send it? - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com  And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals   Are you as obsessed with training and climbing as I am? If so, check out the 5-Year Training and Performance Journal that I created, where you can log and reflect on all of your struggles, sends, adventures, and metrics over the next 5 years. It's the most important climbing tool I have, and it brings me so much joy each day! - Shoutout to Matt Waltereese for being a Victory Whip supporter on Patreon! So mega. - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Planeta Montaña
T5 - Ep15 | Rullo sigue haciendo historia

Planeta Montaña

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 5, 2024 42:16


El vallecano Jorge Díaz Rullo recibe a Planeta Montaña by Huesca La Magia a pie de 'Café Colombia' uno de sus grandes proyectos. Este verano volvió a hacer historia y cumplió un viejo sueño que muchos años antes había visto en el checo Adam Ondra. El madrileño hizo historia en Noruega y sigue labrando un curriculum al alcance de muy pocos. Y luego se viene la catalana Meri Puig que en los años 80 abrió junto a otras compañeras un interesante camino en el mundo de las grandes montañas. Nos cuenta cosas de esos años, y también de la relación entre deporte y psicología. Escucha el episodio completo en la app de iVoox, o descubre todo el catálogo de iVoox Originals

The Struggle Climbing Show
Will Bosi: Sending four V17s, Simple Training for Power and Endurance, 5.15d / 9c+ Goals, the Problem with Downgrading

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Nov 27, 2024 98:51


Join The Struggle's Patreon community to get 100+ hours of Bonus Episodes, Pro Clinics, Uncut Videos, and Submit Questions for Future Guests. FREE TRIAL available!  https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - In this episode, elite climber Will Bosi explores: His latest V17 send, Spots of Time His biggest struggle as a climber Climbing with a crowd vs by himself His surprisingly simple training routine Replica training, and when it works / doesn't work How he builds endurance What gas station food he ate before sending his latest V17 Projecting tactics Speed vs Accuracy when it comes to limit climbs Which mega Adam Ondra route he plans to project soon - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:06:36 Training: 0:45:22 Nutrition: 0:59:06 Tactics: 1:05:23 Mental Game: 1:24:30 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE WHO LOVE ROCK CLIMBING AS MUCH AS YOU DO: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score $10 off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE10 at checkout. Rúngne: Soft threads and high performing chalk! Use Code STRUGGLE for 15% Off Bags, Buckets, Chalk & Apparel from Rúngne! Rungne.com Rhino Skin Solutions: Perform, Cleanse, Repair… repeat! The absolute best skin care products crafted specifically for climbers, whether you're pulling hard indoors or out. Use code STRUGGLE to score a whopping 20% off your purchase!  And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and YouTube /@thestruggleclimbingshow - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much! 

Na place
Kombinace atletiky a gymnastiky a všechno ve velké rychlosti, popisuje Vyvial požární sport

Na place

Play Episode Listen Later Nov 6, 2024 33:23


Zajímavého hosta přivítal ve studiu Radiožurnálu Sport moderátor David Novotný. O požárním sportu přišel diskutovat Radek Vyvial „Náš sport je trochu atletika s prvky gymnastiky. Co se týče atraktivnosti, tak bych to přirovnal k lezení na rychlost, které dělá třeba Adam Ondra,“ říká o specifickém sportu Radek Vyvial. Poslechněte si celý rozhovor pořadu Na place.Všechny díly podcastu Na place můžete pohodlně poslouchat v mobilní aplikaci mujRozhlas pro Android a iOS nebo na webu mujRozhlas.cz.

The Sports Initiative Podcast
189 - Dallas Mix - 'Harnessing' Olympic climbers

The Sports Initiative Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Oct 31, 2024 56:41


4:19Personal Sports Experiences and InfluencesDallas discussed his early sports experiences, noting that he played various sports but ultimately gravitated towards football, which he had to abandon as an adult due to physical limitations. Michael Wright commented on the prevalence of hockey in Canadian culture, expressing surprise at Dallas's different choice. They also touched on golf, with both sharing their perspectives on the sport.9:39Climbing Trailblazers and Memorable MomentsThe conversation delves into the impact of trailblazers in climbing, with Dallas mentioning Adam Ondra and Yanni Gambray as key figures in their respective areas. He recounts a memorable moment involving Akio Noguchi, who creatively adapted her climbing strategy during a competition, showcasing the human element of the sport. Michael Wright appreciates the composure displayed in that moment.14:54Coaching Philosophies and Team DynamicsDallas shares insights on the varying coaching philosophies in sports, acknowledging that personal connections shape his views on different teams. He admires Canadian Olympians Sean McCall and Alana Yip for their authenticity and individual approaches. Michael Wright adds to the conversation by reflecting on the ambiguity in sports and the importance of team dynamics, drawing parallels to his own experiences in soccer and basketball.17:55Overview of Climbing Coaching and Competition StructureDallas detailed his responsibilities as a climbing coach, overseeing a large team of youth and adult athletes in Calgary while also coaching remote athletes aiming for World Cup competitions. He discussed his experience with the national program since 2019, including serving as head coach for the Olympic team. Michael Wright inquired about the structure of climbing competitions globally, emphasizing the importance of understanding the qualification process for events like the Olympics and World Championships.22:25Climbing Dynamics and Athlete DevelopmentThe conversation between Michael Wright and Dallas focused on the distinctions between indoor and outdoor climbing, with Dallas explaining that the two environments demand different athletic skills. He noted that indoor climbing often features gymnastic movements, while outdoor climbing emphasizes grip strength and recovery. Additionally, they touched on the physical demands placed on climbers, including the importance of finger strength and the various training methods used to develop these skills..30:30Teaching Climbing Skills and Life LessonsDallas discusses the dual role of climbing as both a sport and a life skill, stressing the need for athletes to develop agency and problem-solving abilities. He explains that while initial instruction is necessary, the ultimate goal is to guide athletes to discover solutions independently. Michael contributes by reflecting on the importance of feeling and reacting in sports, drawing parallels between climbing and football.40:58Building Resilience in Young AthletesMichael and Dallas explore the challenges young athletes face regarding failure and identity in sports. Dallas highlights the shift in coaching philosophies towards supporting mental health while also stressing the importance of resilience. He advocates for creating an environment where athletes can learn from their failures and develop a sense of self that is not solely tied to their performance.53:40Emphasizing Play and Individual Growth in CoachingDallas highlights the significance of balancing structured training with playful activities to promote creativity and enjoyment among young athletes. He shares an example of a game he introduced to his team to encourage laughter and connection. Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.

Host Frekvence 1
Víkendový speciál Adama Ondry aneb kam na ty nejkrásnější skály v České republice

Host Frekvence 1

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 20, 2024 1:01


Tento týden k nám dorazil lezec Adam Ondra, který se už o víkendu představí na světovém poháru v Praze. I když zvládne hravě lézt po stěnách, jeho srdce ho stejně více táhne do přírody. A proto nám prozradil, kde se mu v Čechách leze nejlépe.

Host Frekvence 1
Adam Ondra: Pokud bude moje oblíbená disciplína na LOH 2028, tak to ještě zkusím 

Host Frekvence 1

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 18, 2024 14:33


Dnes k nám do studia dorazil lezec Adam Ondra. Proč se bál na českých pískovcích v Adršpachu a musel někdy spát na skále ve výšce? A kde a jak se na skalách spí? Má s sebou ve skalách telefon? Bude chtít ještě zkusit olympiádu v Los Angles za čtyři roky? Jak se těší na světový pohár v Praze a kolik fanoušků chodí? A jak jsou na tom s lezením ženy a v čem jsou lepší, než muži? Na jakém neobvyklém místě lezl? Poslechněte si celý rozhovor.

Casablanca
Můj táta je můj vzor a super týpek, říká 16letý Pepa Šindel, zářivá naděje českého lezení

Casablanca

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 15, 2024 38:00


V 15 letech přelezl na Slovensku cestu vysoké obtížnosti 9a+, kterou nezvládl dokončit Adam Ondra. Český horolezecký svaz ho opakovaně označil za talent roku. Pepa Šindel ale mluví v podcastu Casablanca nejen o lezení, ale také o rodině, cestování a svém životním stylu spojeným s přírodou.Všechny díly podcastu Casablanca můžete pohodlně poslouchat v mobilní aplikaci mujRozhlas pro Android a iOS nebo na webu mujRozhlas.cz.

Radio Wave
Casablanca: Můj táta je můj vzor a super týpek, říká 16letý Pepa Šindel, zářivá naděje českého lezení

Radio Wave

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 15, 2024 38:00


V 15 letech přelezl na Slovensku cestu vysoké obtížnosti 9a+, kterou nezvládl dokončit Adam Ondra. Český horolezecký svaz ho opakovaně označil za talent roku. Pepa Šindel ale mluví v podcastu Casablanca nejen o lezení, ale také o rodině, cestování a svém životním stylu spojeným s přírodou.

Rock and Joy
#307 Rewind. Conoce a Adam Ondra, ¿Cómo es ser el mejor escalador del mundo?

Rock and Joy

Play Episode Listen Later Aug 23, 2024 71:26


Encuentra el libro en arte.rockandjoy.com tienes un 30% de descuento en la 2ª unidad. En este episodio entrevisto Adam Ondra, seguramente el mejor escalador de roca del mundo, poco más hay que decir. En esta entrevista busco su lado más humano, conocer al Adam que está detrás de los vídeos. Si te ha gustado por favor suscríbete, me puedes encontrar en Spotify y por supuesto en rockandjoy.com. Comparte y deja un comentario, estaré encantado de responderte. El mundo es tu rocódromo, sal ahí fuera y disfrútalo!

Radio Prague - English
Czechia in 30 minutes (July 26, 2024)

Radio Prague - English

Play Episode Listen Later Jul 26, 2024 24:55


News: Czech House public hub at Paris Olympics; climber Adam Ondra hopes to make up for Tokyo disappointment in Paris; UK man Ed Ley documents stories of Prague streets.

Lattice Training Podcast
Will Jana Švecová be the first woman to boulder 9A/V17?

Lattice Training Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later May 25, 2024 57:24 Transcription Available


Join us for an inspiring podcast with Jana Švecová, an accomplished climber who is currently pushing her limits on the boulder problem Terranova, which was established by Adam Ondra in the Czech Republic back in 2011, it's currently graded 8C+/V16, and with no repeats, it's rumoured it could be  9A/V17. Jana's dedication and goal-oriented mindset have propelled her to become one of the strongest female boulderers in the world. In this episode, she shares valuable insights on setting and achieving goals, dealing with pressure and criticism, and finding joy in the process.Topics include:Setting and achieving goals in climbing: Jana discusses the significance of setting goals and how it has fueled her progress.Trusting yourself and overcoming doubts: How Jana has dealt with doubts and criticism from others throughout her climbing journey. She shares her strategies for staying focused, trusting her abilities, and not letting external opinions hinder her.Finding your own fun in climbing: She shares her perspective on what brings joy in climbing and the variety of challenges it offers. Challenges and rewards of climbing in cold weather: Her experiences climbing in different weather conditions and insights on preparing and adapting to these challenges.Embracing adaptability during climbing trips: Climbing trips don't always go the way you expect, Jana explores the importance of adaptability, maintaining a positive mindset, and finding opportunities for growth even when faced with obstacles.Exploring the climbing opportunities in the Czech Republic: It's hidden gems!Join us in today's episode where Jana Švecová shares her passion for climbing, her personal insights, and her excitement for future climbing projects. Tune in on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, or your preferred platform to gain valuable insights from one of the climbing world's strongest women.The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

Climbing Gold
The Adam Ondra Episode

Climbing Gold

Play Episode Listen Later May 10, 2024 54:42


For the last decade, no climber has moved our sport closer to the future than Adam Ondra. While he's known for his visionary sport routes, he's excelled in every aspect of rock climbing from competition to big walls. Adam sat down for a wide ranging interview to talk about the limits of what's humanly possible, the Olympics and shiver bivying on El Cap with his father. Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  Dr. Squatch Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get 20% any purchase (new customers only) LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order 

Lattice Training Podcast
Will Bosi climbing sport 9c or Adam Ondra bouldering 9A first?

Lattice Training Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later May 4, 2024 8:25 Transcription Available


In this podcast highlight, Tom Randall and Will Bosi discuss various aspects of Will's climbing projects, aiming to understand the mental process of walking away from a project. They also touch on Will's future plans for 2024 and whether Will will try a 9c route any time soon.Listen to the Podcast highlight, or the full episode on our Spotify, Apple Music, Stitcher, and many more!The Lattice jingle is brought to you by Devin Dabney, music producer of the outdoor industry who also hosts the American Climbing Project.

HausboTalk Petra Horkého
Horolezec RADEK JAROŠ - Umění otočit se před vrcholem.

HausboTalk Petra Horkého

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 28, 2024 30:30


Radek Jaroš je první český horolezec, který vylezl bez kyslíku na všech 14 osmitisícovek světa. Stal se prvním čechem a 15. na světě, kdo to dokázal. To se psal trok 2014. S jakým nastavením hlavy vyrážel a vyráží na své expedice? Jak reaguje na sprintující čas? A co si myslí o tom, že nějaký novinář tvrdí, že Messner ani Jaroš nebyli na skutečných vrcholech některých hor?Celé video bez reklam a včetně zajímavé diskuse na závěr najdete na https://herohero.co/petrhorky00:00 Jaké je to odmítnout, přijmout a mít státní vyznamenání02:55 Lezec leze, archivář neuznává.08:57 Narozeniny a kontroverze na vrcholu Manaslu.12:45 Elizabeth Hawley.15:11 Umění otočit se před vrcholem, sestupy z Everestu.23:31 Bezpečnost na výpravě, záchranář nesmí ohrozit vlastní život.27:18 Himaláje jsou obrovská skládka kyslíkových lahví.Celý rozhovor obsahuje navíc tyto kapitoly:28:49 Luxusní servis na Everestu, stud za západní privilegium.35:18 Vítězství, co dál?38:42 Stárnutí vrcholového horolezce, jak si udržet kondici?Support the show

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Chasing the Impossible, Using Humor to Send, and Two Drills for Legendary Endurance

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 18, 2024 97:52


Stefano Ghisolfi is an Italian professional climber and one of the most accomplished sport climbers in the world. We talked about racing bikes growing up, discovering climbing, using humor in his YouTube videos, how having fun helps him send, why he loves projecting limit routes, chasing the impossible, trying ‘Silence' 9c, sending ‘Excalibur' 9b+, two drills for legendary endurance, supporting his girlfriend Sara through hard times with her health, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Watch the Video Interview:EP 210: Stefano Ghisolfi — Uncut Video!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Mad Rock!madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/stefano-ghisolfiNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:28) – Young Stefano(00:08:18) – Humor and fun(00:12:09) – The Dawn of Climbing(00:14:20) – The whole process(00:17:41) – Trying ‘Silence' 9c(00:20:52) – Chasing the impossible(00:23:33) – Learning new skills on ‘Silence'(00:25:53) – Comparing ‘Silence' and ‘Excalibur' 9b+(00:28:45) – Limiting factors on ‘Silence'(00:36:08) – Tips for building legendary endurance(00:44:49) – ‘Excalibur' and ‘Burden of Dreams' 9A(00:55:35) – Trying ‘Excalibur' with Adam Ondra and Will Bosi(01:02:14) – The sword earring(01:04:06) – How ‘Excalibur' got its name(01:09:22) – Trying ‘Hubble' 8c+/9a(01:11:41) – Engaging with climbing history(01:14:48) – Stefano's climbing heroes(01:17:51) – ‘Demencia Senil' 9a+(01:20:29) – Fortnite and Mario Kart strength(01:22:52) – Sara's health challenges(01:29:29) – Supporting one another(01:33:28) – Wrap up and EXTRA for Patrons!

Lattice Training Podcast
Adam Ondra Repeats The World's Hardest Trad Route

Lattice Training Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 16, 2024 57:31


In this episode, join host Tom Randall for an in-depth conversation with climbing legend James Pearson. James recently established ‘Bon Voyage' (E12), a route he boldly suggests is the world's hardest trad climb, pushing the boundaries of difficulty and safety in the sport.James Pearson is a household name in the climbing world, known for his ground-breaking first ascents like ‘The Walk of Life' (E9), as well as ascents of some of the world's hardest sport climbs. Despite that, there has been controversy surrounding the grading in his earlier career.⁣Although his earlier efforts faced some controversy, with a few of his climbs like The Groove being downgraded after establishment. This criticism, which even included accusations of overgrading for media attention, forced James to re-evaluate the entire grading system.The experience turned out to be a turning point for James.  He spent years rebuilding his confidence and credibility as a climber, making significant ascents in Europe. This included repeating the downgraded ‘The Walk of Life' and tackling other difficult routes like ‘Tribe' (E11) and ‘Lexicon' (E11 7a).So when James established  'Bon Voyage' in France and felt it was his hardest route yet, he initially hesitated to propose a grade. However, after witnessing other accomplished climbers struggle on the route, James decided to propose the world's first E12 once again, ten months after his initial ascent. This episode dives into James' experience with 'Bon Voyage' and the lessons learned from his past grading controversies, but also the validation James received when none other than Adam Ondra, successfully repeated the route and agreed with the E12 grade.In this episode, James dives deep into:Sharing ‘Bon Voyage' with Adam OndraWhat makes this route unlike anything else out thereAdam Ondra's approach to riskWhat beta Adam Ondra used for this epic routeWho else is trying ‘Bon Voyage'The evolution of trad grades and why did James propose the controversial E12 grade for ‘Bon Voyage'This episode is a must-listen for any climber interested in the cutting edge of trad climbing, the ever-evolving world of grading, and the unique perspectives of two climbing legends!Don't miss this captivating episode on Spotify, Apple Podcasts, Google Podcasts, Stitcher, and more! 

The Struggle Climbing Show
Adam Ondra: Finger Training, Climbing Fast, Projecting Tips, Free Soloing, and Historical Downgrades

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 31, 2024 86:59


Elite climber Adam Ondra shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Adam has 18 World Cup Gold medals,, is one of the best boulderers in the world with four V16 or 8C+ and 17 8C or V15 to his name. On sport, Adam has flashed up to 9a+ or 5.15a with Super Crackinette, he was the first to redpoint 5.15c or 9b+ with Change in Flatanger, and then again with the first ascent of La Dura Dura in Oliana, and he was the first to establish the hardest grade in the world at this time with Silence in Flatanger, 9c, or 5.15d… a 4 year project that has yet to see a repeat. Adam has sent more than 200 routes that are 9a or harder. One can pick up a lot of knowledge through that level of experience… and lucky for us, he's ready to drop that knowledge on us here today.  - Become a Patron for 40+ Hours of Bonus Content: patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:11:18 Training: 0:16:00 Nutrition: 0:27:58 Tactics: 0:37:23 Mental Game: 0:50:40 Purpose: 1:07:28 - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE: PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.  ForceBoard: A better way to train fingers. Portable, accurate, and created to train finger strength and endurance exactly how YOU need it. Score 10% off and support the show by using code STRUGGLE at checkout.  And check out ALL the show's awesome sponsors and exclusive deals at thestruggleclimbingshow.com/deals - Follow along on Instagram@adam.ondra and @thestruggleclimbingshow Check out Adam's new lead-climbing course with Altitude Climbing - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 203: Jakob Schubert — World Champion to 9c and 9A, Adam Ondra's Risky and Efficient Style, and Failing on ‘Sleepwalker'

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 29, 2024 99:23


Jakob Schubert is one of the greatest competition climbers ever. In 2023 he won the World Championships in both lead and combined, secured his ticket to the Paris Olympics, sent his first 9c with his FA of ‘B.I.G.', and sent his hardest boulder with ‘Alphane' 9A. We talked about his incredible year, learning from Adam Ondra's risky and efficient climbing style, what he learned from failing on ‘Sleepwalker' V16, plans for more 9c's, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out KAYA!kayaclimb.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your first year of KAYA PRO!Check out Tindeq!tindeq.comUse code “nugget” for $10 off your order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jakob-schubertNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:03:44) – Jakob's best year ever(00:08:49) – Securing his ticket to Paris, and focusing on B.I.G.(00:10:40) – Inspiration for rock climbing(00:13:20) – Learning about efficiency from outdoor projects(00:16:28) – Less emphasis on winning the overall World Cup(00:18:55) – Giving away his trophies(00:20:08) – Why did Jakob choose ‘B.I.G.' 9c and A'lphane' 9A as projects?(00:24:16) – Teaming up with Adam Ondra and Stefano Ghisolfi(00:26:48) – Learning from Adam's risky and efficient climbing style(00:36:13) – How quality of ‘B.I.G.'(00:38:13) – Breakdown and logistics of ‘B.I.G.'(00:43:46) – Breaking a hold on his send go of ‘B.I.G.'(00:45:29) – Did live streaming change the experience?(00:48:22) – Will Jakob do more live streams in the future?(00:50:26) – His project schedule on ‘B.I.G.'(00:53:45) – Logistics of traveling to Flatanger(00:56:26) – Is ‘B.I.G.' the best hard route in the world?(00:59:36) – Plans to return to ‘DNA' 9c(01:00:00) – What does ‘B.I.G.' stand for?(01:01:45) – How Jakob prepared for ‘B.I.G.', and revisiting the route with fresh eyes(01:09:16) – Tweaking beta to send ‘B.I.G.'(01:11:48) – Muscle memory, connecting hard moves, and repeating boulders with different beta(01:14:48) – “Waking up” his fingers for ‘Alphane'(01:17:14) – Analyzing videos of ‘Alphane'(01:18:28) – Speed training(01:20:02) – Recovery(01:21:09) – Failing on ‘Sleepwalker' V16 (8C+) and what he learned from it(01:25:48) – Greedy(01:27:47) – What he plans to do differently for ‘Sleepwalker' when he goes back(01:29:30) – Drew Ruana's story about Jakob, and who Jakob has been the most impressed by(01:35:27) – Wrap up and EXTRA teaser!

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
Follow-Up: Jon Cardwell — Establishing ‘Wind Up Bird' 5.15b, and Uphill Athlete Training

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 27, 2024 69:01


Jon Cardwell is back for a Follow-Up! We talked about his new route ‘Wind Up Bird' 5.15b at The Fortress of Solitude in CO, how moving away helped him send, what he learned from failing on ‘Super Crackinette' in France, how he applied Uphill Athlete principles to his training for sport climbing, plans to go back for the extension, bolting 5.15 projects in New Mexico, and much more!*Follow-Ups are now available for everyone! These are laid-back episodes with past guests from the show. We catch up and chat about their latest sends and what they've been up to. Enjoy!Jon's Original Episode:EP 50: Jon CardwellReferences:Adam Ondra flashing ‘Super Crackinette' 9a+EP 169: Scott JohnstonTraining for the Uphill Athlete (book)Nuggets:(00:00:00) – Sending ‘Wind Up Bird' 5.15b (9b)(00:17:40) – How moving away helped him find success(00:22:21) – Failing to climb ‘Super Crackinette' 5.15a (9a+), and what he learned from it(00:27:29) – Adam Ondra's flash of ‘Super Crackinette'(00:30:00) – Drawing inspiration from Scott Johnston,  and training for ‘Wind Up Bird'(00:35:53) – Constantly learning(00:40:42) – More about his training(00:45:45) – Falling 50+ times on the same move, and building momentum(00:47:35) – Taking your foot off the gas, maintaining strength, and training plans for the extension(00:54:20) – Exhaustion and motivation(00:56:51) – The complexity of sport climbing(00:58:42) – Is V16 a goal for Jon?(01:01:23) – New 5.15 projects at The Tunnel in NM(01:03:00) – Is anyone trying ‘Wind Up Bird'?(01:05:21) – Will the extension be 5.15c (9b+)?(01:07:12) – Wrap up

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 202: Tyler Nelson Returns — How to Get Stronger Fingers, Habits to Prevent Injuries, and Why Climbers Shouldn't Train Like Gymnasts

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 22, 2024 164:26


Dr. Tyler Nelson is back on the podcast! We talked about the biggest takeaways from all of his years of finger strength experimenting, how he warms up for a limit bouldering session, how to gain finger strength while minimizing risk, the value of wrist and hand training, common causes of climbing injuries, his advice for my trip to Hueco, what he learned from his trip to Squamish, why climbers shouldn't train like gymnasts, what sets the best athletes apart, and much more!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!REGISTER NOW for the PCC!www.performanceclimbingcoach.comUse code "NUGGET" for 10% off Early Bird pricing until Jan 28th!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tyler-nelson-returnsNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:04:03) – The donut festival(00:06:26) – Tyler's granite spray wall(00:07:46) – Mirrored boards(00:13:06) – Alcohol and more donuts(00:14:21) – Outline of topics(00:16:17) – Finger training topics(00:34:46) – How Tyler warms up for limit bouldering(00:41:58) – Hand training, recruitment, and coordination(00:49:23) – Summary of our session(00:50:21) – When to end a session(00:52:48) – Using a mix of tools(00:54:26) – Intensity vs. volume(00:59:49) – Building capacity off the wall(01:01:39) – Supplementing your climbing with less risky hand/finger training tools(01:05:22) – When to hangboard (and when not to)(01:09:42) – Learning and changing your mind(01:11:25) – Tyler's guidance for me in Hueco(01:17:25) – Should we climb less?(01:20:24) – Lions don't go jogging(01:21:53) – Making sense of Alex Megos' and Adam Ondra's training volume(01:23:31) – My takeaways for Hueco(01:24:47) – What Tyler learned from his trip to Squamish(01:30:02) – What is the campus board good for?(01:40:14) – How important is RFD in climbing?(01:44:33) – Common causes of injuries(01:52:32) – Transitioning back to hard climbing(01:54:55) – How your tendons change when you build capacity(01:58:29) – Do our tendons get thicker?(02:00:24) – Where does our long-term finger strength come from?(02:02:57) – What sets the best athletes apart?(02:07:46) – Takeaways(02:11:48) – How Tyler changes his clients' training habits(02:14:41) – The future of finger training(02:18:04) – Calisthenics vs. strength training(02:26:19) – Are rings exercises strength training?(02:30:12) – More strength training takeaways(02:37:05) – Wrap up

Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents
Adam Ondra on Just Do It and the Importance of Climbing History

Written in Stone: Climbing’s Most Important Ascents

Play Episode Listen Later Jan 8, 2024 42:27


In November of 2018, at Smith Rock, Oregon, Adam Ondra made one of the most impressive onsights in the history of climbing. The first 14c in the US, Just Do It. 1990's era technical testpieces don't make for easy redpoints, more or less onsights, but Adam has made a point of trying to do just that as often as possible. And there's no climber in the world who is better at it.  In this episode, Kris and Adam discuss the importance of history, how Just Do It checks all of the boxes for a classic, the value of competition, and the impeccable vision of Alan Watts in bringing Smith Rock into the new age. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE! ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

The Gravel Ride.  A cycling podcast
Gravel Del Fuego Race - a Patagonian adventure with Tito Nazar

The Gravel Ride. A cycling podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 20, 2023 44:39


Tito Nazar, the founder of Gravel de Fuego, discusses the growth of gravel cycling in Chile and the unique challenges and beauty of the Patagonia region. He shares his personal journey from mountaineering to ultra running to gravel cycling, and how he was inspired to create the Gravel de Fuego event. The event features a sprint loop of 252 km and a 1000k race, both showcasing the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. Tito emphasizes the importance of experiencing nature and the sense of adventure that comes with ultra cycling. The event takes place in April and participants can fly into Santiago before traveling to Punta Arenas. Gravel Del Fuego Website and Instagram Episode Sponsor: Dynamic Cyclist (15% off with code TheGravelRide) Support the Podcast Join The Ridership  About The Guest(s): Tito Nazar is a gravel cyclist and race organizer from Chile. He grew up in Patagonia and has a deep connection with the region. Tito is the co-founder of Gravel de Fuego, a gravel race that takes place in the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. Summary: Tito Nazar, a gravel cyclist and race organizer from Chile, joins the show to discuss the Gravel de Fuego race and the beauty of Patagonia. Tito shares his background in mountaineering and ultra running before discovering gravel cycling. He talks about the growth of the gravel community in Chile and the unique challenges of gravel riding in Patagonia. Tito then dives into the details of the Gravel de Fuego race, including the sprint loop and the 1000k event. He highlights the breathtaking scenery, the logistics of the race, and the opportunity for riders to connect with nature. Tito also discusses the importance of timing the race in April to avoid extreme winds and rains. The conversation concludes with Tito explaining the process of crossing the waterway and the unique experience of finishing the race. Key Takeaways: - Gravel cycling is growing in popularity in Chile, particularly in Santiago. - Gravel de Fuego offers riders the opportunity to experience the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. - The sprint loop of the race showcases the iconic Torres del Paine mountains. - The 1000k event takes riders through diverse landscapes, including flat pampas and mountain ranges. - The race provides support and accommodations for riders, ensuring their safety and comfort. Automated Transcription, please excuse the typos: [00:00:00] Craig Dalton: Hello, and welcome to the gravel ride podcast, where we go deep on the sport of gravel cycling through in-depth interviews with product designers, event organizers and athletes. Who are pioneering the sport I'm your host, Craig Dalton, a lifelong cyclist who discovered gravel cycling back in 2016 and made all the mistakes you don't need to make. I approach each episode as a beginner down, unlock all the knowledge you need to become a great gravel cyclist. [00:00:28] Craig Dalton (host): This week on the podcast that got the great pleasure of welcoming Tito Nazar founder of gravel Delph Wigo out of Chile. To discuss the event, the growth of gravel in Chile and Patagonia. And the beauty of the region of Patagonia, he's going to share his personal journey from mountaineering to ultra running to gravel cycling and how he was inspired to create gravel the flag out. As an homage to his home region. Of Patagonia. As someone who's had the great pleasure of visiting Patagonia on a hiking trip previously, I would double click on that and encourage you to run over to Instagram and follow the gravel dove Wagga site. To see just what we're talking about. As we have this conversation. Before we jump into this conversation. I need to thank this week sponsor. Dynamic cyclist. If you're not familiar with dynamic cyclist. It's a video base, stretching and strength program focused on cyclists. The team over there has created a vast library of stretching and strengthening routines. Focus specifically on those problem areas that us as cyclists constantly endure as someone who's always struggled with mobility and flexibility, I've really welcomed these training sessions. Because there are only 15 minutes long, which means you can fit them into almost any day of the week. They focus on the various body parts that we overuse at cyclist and even have specific stretching programs for those problem areas. For me, it's the low back. So each winter. I follow their six week low back training program. In addition to the general stretching and strengthening training advice. They provide. Go on over to dynamics, cyclist and check it out. You can use the coupon code. A gravel ride. To get 15% off any of their plans, they do have a free trial. So there's no reason. Not to head on over to dynamics, cyclist.com and give it a try. With that business behind us, let's jump right into my conversation with Tito. [00:02:35] Craig Dalton (host): Tito, welcome to the show. [00:02:38] Tito Nazar (guest): Hello. [00:02:39] Craig Dalton (host): I'm super excited to have this conversation. It's been a while in the making. [00:02:43] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you so much for your patience. Um, it required a lot of work on my side, but you've been very kind to me, so thank you for having me. [00:02:52] Craig Dalton (host): You had me at Patagonia. The moment you said that in your first email, I was like, I need to find out what Tito's all about. And the more I've learned over the years have left, left even more excited to have this conversation today. [00:03:08] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah, Patagonia, well, it's such a powerful word. Uh, probably you agree with this. Um, yeah, Patagonia is very far south, don't you think? Close to Antarctica, maybe? [00:03:19] Craig Dalton (host): Indeed, I think it's the farthest South I've ever been and just putting it out there to those listening. I've been on a trekking trip in Patagonia, which covers the and jump in, correct me if I'm wrong, but the sort of southern area of Argentina and Chile is kind of the Patagonia region. And I had the pleasure of seeing some of the most beautiful mountains in the world on this track. And also some of the longest bus rides I feel like I've ever taken across the region to get from one point to another. [00:03:48] Tito Nazar (guest): And windy, maybe, no? Yeah. [00:03:51] Craig Dalton (host): A hundred percent. I think the first day, the sort of the female guide, she was wearing a ski hat and it was, it was not a cold time of year. And she was just basically like, Hey, if you're going to be out in this ripping wind all day, it's just nice to have something covering your ears. [00:04:06] Tito Nazar (guest): Patagonia, it's crazy. Um, I'm a very, I want to believe I'm a big fan of history, but also, yeah, I have a deep connection with the past and I think Patagonia is powerful because of our, of the aesthetics, the mountains, of course, but the history that surrounds, uh, the mountains is something that is hard to grasp and maybe to find. Uh, but of course I was born and raised there. So. I want to believe that I have a deep connection with my land. Uh, and that's why I'm very excited about this event because, um, of course, um, I want to show the world a different perspective, even, even to myself. Like I know my region climbing, ice skating, uh, skiing, but, uh, but graveling is a new thing in Chile and even more in Patagonia. [00:04:57] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. We'll get into it in a minute because I know you described the sprint loop as being one of the most spectacular rides you've ever done. But before we get into the event itself, let's just talk a little bit about you and your background and how you came to the sport of gravel cycling. [00:05:14] Tito Nazar (guest): Mm, Mm, I began doing mountaineering. Uh, there is this guy, Ulishtek, have you heard of him? Um, may he rest in peace. Uh, okay. You know, the Banff, uh, festival was in, it was still taking, it takes place in Chile. So of course, if you were a rock climber following Chris, Chris Sharma, you know, Adam Ondra now these days, uh, and eventually Ulishtek show up in one of those videos, climbing the North face of the Eiger. So I was one of those fans and I've been. I was talking this with my girlfriend. I, I think I am very obsessed with going fast and light. I never liked trekking really, which I've been a trekking guide, but it was not my thing. I was always cutting grams and stuff, ounces, you would say. But what I'm trying to say is that, uh, I got into mountaineering, then I understood there was something called trail running and I became an auto runner, I guess around Leadville, 100. I did it. I got the big buck, big buckle. I don't know how many hours you have to do it. I don't remember the hours. Um, it was the only time I trained in my life and ultra. Then I knew it took me too many years. I had like a very conventional education, private schools and Catholicism. And I had to become an engineer. Nothing of that worked. And it took me many years to understand. I have like a deep passion for ultra stuff. We'll try whatever. So one person told me that if you had a bicycle, I could go super far over 200 Ks. That might be 160 miles. So maybe two months after I bought my first road bike, I hated it, but I just used it. And have you heard of this, uh, concept crack called Brevet? Brevet? This [00:07:07] Craig Dalton (host): Yes. Yeah. In fact, we just, I just had a friend on talking about Perry Russ Paris and explaining the Brevets and that whole culture. [00:07:15] Tito Nazar (guest): You see? Okay. So I did the 200, the 300, the 400, the 600 Ks. And I ended up not liking it. It was too easy because it's just road bikes. I'm not saying it's wrong, but it was lacking to me of a real adventure because, you know, it's everything too under control. And I don't know how gravel cycling showed up and I got myself another bike. And it was a gravel bike. And before it was something here in Chile, just before it became something, I was already graveling. And just exploring and, I've begun doing everything that you were supposed to do with a mountain bike. I was doing it with the gravel because it reminded me more of having like a steel frame when we were kids, probably. So that's how it went. And then the community began to grow and [00:08:05] Craig Dalton (host): And were you, were you living in, in Santiago at then at this point, I believe you grew up in Southern Chile, but you went to Santiago for college, right? [00:08:13] Tito Nazar (guest): that's right. Uh, sadly, yes, college. And then I, I went back to home and yeah, but I, but I was running a lot. So I've been running a lot, a lot. And cycling, it was basically the same thing. And graveling became an explosion just before COVID in Chile, just before, maybe a year before, uh, graveling culture exploded. So I took my bike to the South. Um, I am from Punta Arenas, very far in Patagonia. Very far South and I was just grappling, trying to understand what this was. And, uh, of course I had the, everybody's drama, uh, what tire with, uh, suspension or suspension bike packing, not by packing gravel racing. Um, how error should I be? Yeah, but, um, yeah, after, and after COVID, I came back to Santiago [00:09:06] Craig Dalton (host): Maybe to help people understand a little bit about what graveling is like in Chile. Where did you, where did you arrive with your bicycle setup? [00:09:16] Tito Nazar (guest): when, [00:09:17] Craig Dalton (host): When, when, what type of bike did you end up? Did you buy an aero bike? Did you buy a bike packing bike? What seems to be the best for the type of terrain you were enjoying? [00:09:27] Tito Nazar (guest): well, that's going to be a complicated discussion because, um, okay, I have to give a short perspective of how gravel behaves in this lovely country of mine. Uh, we don't have the, we talked about this, right, Craig, um, our gravel is not like this thing you get to see in unbound gravel or. Some of the races where you're like flowing and aero bars and everything is so nice and smooth. We have a more aggressive gravel. It's more rugged, uh, with more bigger rocks. It is very safe, but it's just not so fast rolling. This concept is different. So usually our gravel bikes in the, in this country, we have. Wide tires, at least 38 millimeters, 38C at least. Everybody's now going over 40s and suspension may be, it might be a topic, but you know, it makes it more expensive. Um, myself, I have an, uh, a racing, uh, frame because I'm obsessed with grams. I'm a weight weenie. I'm super weight weighting. My gravel bike must be 7. 3 kilos. That's like a pro tour bike, aero pro tour bike. It's the same weight as mine. So, but it's, but I have like a super amazing, can I say the brand or no? [00:10:39] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, sure. [00:10:40] Tito Nazar (guest): I have René Hersey, René Herse. I've tested all the tires in the world and yeah, those are like by far the best. Um, there are two, you say supple, I think, absorption. My God, they're magical. So you can use, well, that, that's just my personal experiment. But, um, going back to the concept, um, I use a gravel racing bike, uh, not aero. But to ultralight, but people prefer to have more chunky tires, um, maybe heavier, but they focus, of course, more on, on comfort because that is the priority in a country such as this. [00:11:15] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. When you, when you talk about sort of gravel beginning to take off kind of just before COVID and, and then the years afterwards, were you finding other gravel cyclists? Were they starting to crop up? Did you find a way to bring that community together? [00:11:32] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, in Patagonia itself, no, that is the honest, the honest truth. We were like three guys and it is growing. I will not lie, but it's, it's slow because in places such as Patagonia, where the weather, whether it's very unpredictable, mountain biking makes more and people were doing mountain biking on gravel. You know, so now it's a matter of, you know, the, the concept has to penetrate, um, over the, the community. Santiago is faster. Everything goes faster because, you know, Santiago is a capital of, I don't know anymore, 10 million people. So that means there's just too much going on. Events, of course, just everything takes place here and then it spreads, uh, all over the country. So I think something fascinating is not really connected to this podcast, but Chile is one of the most. Connected people to cell phones in the world, like whatever you do, if you show it on Instagram, people will know you can, maybe you will be on TV, nobody will see you, but on Instagram. So I guess we are more connected through, through social media. So I can tell you how much is growing maybe in Santiago and slower in the rest of the country, but it is growing, but the rates are different. The closer you are to the capital, of course, it's faster. [00:12:51] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. And then at some point you got the bright idea to put on your first event and that was closer to Santiago, right? [00:12:59] Tito Nazar (guest): very close, like two hours and a half, and it, it was not done in Santiago because we don't really have real gravel in Santiago. So we thought, okay, where's the closest place for real gravel? And it's like, yeah, it's in a place called Navidad. The, we are separated in regions, and those region regions are separated in municipalities. I don't know if that the word. [00:13:20] Craig Dalton (host): Yep. Sure. [00:13:21] Tito Nazar (guest): the municipality of NIDA is where we take place because. We thought it was one of the best gravels we have found in the entire country, really. But it was not myself. It was, um, two friends of mine, um, that, uh, Juan and Luis, he was just here and we are partners and friends. Um, and we invented this crazy race called Gravel Coast. That was our first event almost four years ago. [00:13:48] Craig Dalton (host): And what, what's the Gravel Coast event like? [00:13:53] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, we call it, we invented it somehow inspired in unbound in what's happening in the North Amer in North America. We feel very connected, especially my friend Luon. Uh, Luis, uh, Luchon likes, he knows all the athletes of your country, what's happening there, what's happening with the bikes. He likes the technology and everything. So, and I also feel very connected with many events over there because of Lifetime company. You know, it's, you know, they, they, they have some understanding about marketing, so it hits all the way down here. So we, we try to make an, let's say an adaptation. Of what you are, what these people are building over there and maybe adapted to our reality because we don't have this once again, even though it's a great gravel quality, it's not like a super fast rolling concept. It is more, it is a, it is a real challenge to finish a gravel coast race. Don't get me wrong. Anything can do it. I mean, many people, but you have to, you have to be prepared. I mean, our 200 miles are just insane. You know, there's too much climbing. So that means you're going to be on the saddle a bunch of hours. You're going to be proud of finishing gravel coast. That's why we say [00:15:07] Craig Dalton (host): and is it, is it a 200 mile event? The Gravel Coast? [00:15:11] Tito Nazar (guest): we have last year, we had 70 Ks, a hundred, I forgot my members so weak, but 120 Ks, a two 40 Ks and a three 20 Ks, which is a, which is a 200 miles now for the final event that is taking next year, that is 2024. It's in October. That is our spring. Um, it's going to be. Um, 50 miles, a hundred miles and 200 miles. [00:15:37] Craig Dalton (host): Gotcha. Gotcha. Now let's talk about the event you're going to be kicking off in 2024. What inspired you? Yeah, the big one. What, what inspired you to take the mantle and create this event yourself? What inspired you of where you're placing it? I have so many questions about Gravel Del Fuego. [00:16:01] Tito Nazar (guest): Oh, I really love my country. Uh, especially Patagonia. Um, it's hard to explain, but okay. I'm, I'm, I'm super lucky person because my father taught me how to fish, hunt, and some scuba diving. And Tierra del Fuego Island, it is a place that everybody wishes to see. But there is no development. There is no, there's not many, unless you're like a person who likes fly fishing and can pay on a helicopter, that is the only way maybe you can access to the island. Now it's getting more popular, but 20 years ago, I mean, if you were not a gaucho, you know, these people that take care of their cattle over there, or if you were not like a fisherman or maybe crazy guy, you had no idea what, I mean, you, you knew what the island was, but. No way you will dare to dive into it. I think that thing is still happening, but I am so lucky. I know the island because of my father. He took me fly fishing all the time with a truck. Don't get me wrong, not on a helicopter. And we will just, you know, get into river rivers and he will bring his boat and we will just try to catch some salmons and trouts. And so I had that first approach. And I saw the island just like that, but then I ended up being working for a king penguin colony. I mean, not for the penguins themselves, but from the owner of the, of the park. And I began to understand that was tourism. This was like, this was the real future of the islands. And then I ended up working for some company of the government for a commercial. I can show it to you on YouTube. I look very pathetic. And believe it or not, I was the model. They call me and I was like, have you seen pictures of me? I'm not a model. They were like, no, but we need somebody adventurous, blah, blah, blah. So I saw once again, the entire island. Without this tourism vision, time passed and it took me like three years to launch this race. I was not daring. I was wondering if I had the experience, but after all the events we've done these days, I mean, accumulated until today, it gave us the guts to, okay, now we know we have the capacity. I have the understanding. I've been in races where people have been in trouble in Patagonia. So I saw what was wrong. So I was able to understand how I can provide some safety. to secure people to enjoy the experience and not to be, you know, traumatized. Um, so it's been a long process. I don't know if that response answers the question, but, um, it was maybe a lack, a matter of luck of having one vision and then to have a more modern vision of how tourism come dive into the island. And show it to the world. [00:18:48] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, I think it's a fairly common kind of expression from race organizers that they've just been somewhere where they want other people to see And a very small number of you out there in the world, take it upon yourself to map something, to organize something, to bring people together. So I'm always super excited. And I was bemused by the distance of your sprint event. Your sprint is 252 kilometers, which is only a sprint in relative to the grand daddy event, which is how many kilometers for the full full event. [00:19:27] Tito Nazar (guest): uh, actually I did the conversion. Um, the, the, the sprint is 150 miles. I know it's a sprint. It's an irony. It's an irony. And then that we have the big, uh, uh, route that is a thousand case that is, uh, roughly 654 miles, 600, 654 miles. [00:19:48] Craig Dalton (host): Okay. So let's, let's talk about them quickly independently of one another and let's start off with the sprint event of roughly 150 miles. Can you just sort of walk us through what the vision was? And I believe you were telling me earlier, this was the loop that really was magical in your mind. If you were going to do any one thing, do it for one 24 hour period. This is the loop you would want to share with the world. So let's talk about it. [00:20:17] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, I have to, I have to confess. Um, I have to confess that everything was born from Tierra del Fuego. I, one of the obsessions I like to do is I like to do things that people have not done ever because it's more adventurous when something is done and you're trying to break the record, you have one warranty, which is. You can make it because it is already done, but when something has never been done, there is more mystery. There's more uncertainty and I crossed the island from the north to the south in gravel racing non sleeping mode for the first time ever and back then I was already building the idea of making a race. But I wasn't sure and then the upper section of the entire race, I speak of the 600 miles race. I've done it many times driving because I was a guide and also I was hunting with my father in some sections too, uh, birds. Um, when I say high hunting, whatever I killed, I ate it. So please don't be upset people. Um, having said that, um, what was the question? Sorry. [00:21:20] Craig Dalton (host): Well, I wanted to talk through both of the distances and sort of the vision and starting with the sprint loop. Like, what is, what would the riders be experiencing? [00:21:30] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah. Okay. My apologies. Uh, the short loop was kind of logical because it is. It enters the famous park, national park, uh, called Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine are these granite towers, um, that are super insane. These spikes elevate thousands of meters up the sky and they're breathtaking. [00:21:52] Craig Dalton (host): quick, quick aside, I literally have a picture of the mountains you're describing in my kitchen. [00:21:57] Tito Nazar (guest): You see, it proves something, [00:21:58] Craig Dalton (host): it's amazing. [00:22:00] Tito Nazar (guest): right? Um, so, um, sadly, because of a matter of logistics, we cannot make it shorter. Uh, we will have to bring people to, I don't know, closer to the mountains, but that would mean to move the people and their bikes, and that is just impossible. Chile is a very expensive country, so, sorry, that's the best we can do. And what you're going to see is that, I mean, from the mile 60, you get to see the towers right away. Uh, the videos are, are on the Instagram of the, uh, gravel del fuego. That is the name of the race. And yeah, I mean, as you are pedaling, correct. You're just looking at the towers from one angle. Then you get to see more of the three towers because there are three towers. Uh, and then one of the towers hides. And then you just get to see two, but then you see this cold mountain called Almirante Nieto, which is full of glaciers. And yet you get to see the entire faces of the, of these, of these guys. I mean, I'm sorry, of the Almirante Nieto. You leave away Almirante Nieto, and then you see the horns, Los Cuernos, the horns of the Paine, which are these granite, once again, towers that on top, they have, uh, volcanic material. Which is the black dots on top of them. And that is amazing. Like I just, today I just put some stories on the Instagram, how beautiful they are. And then you final finish, finish with the final peak, the highest one, which is called Paine Grande, Big Paine. Then it has a huge plateau of just glaciers. Um, I'm sorry, I get excited, but I don't know if that So that is the point of the sprint. I know it's not a sprint, of course, but we made it. Available for all people because they have 20 hours to finish the race. That is a lot of hours. You can contemplate, you can stop, you can eat. And, but it's just, I don't know. Uh, I wish people, I guess I have to invite them to get into the website and see the pictures, like we went on April. So people would see how the landscape is going to look for them. It's just amazing. I mean, contemplating mounting as you pedal, it cannot be any better. Don't you think [00:24:01] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, no, I agree. And your enthusiasm is absolutely warranted. And again, I encourage everybody to follow gravel. If I go on Instagram and go to the website, you'll see the pictures, you'll see what we're talking about, and you'll see that even the most monotone individual can not help, but be effusive about how beautiful that region is. When you think about that loop and you think about the writers, they have 20 hours, you know, inevitably there'll be some person, some people who are racing it. What do you think one can get around the loop in with 20 hours being the maximum? What do you think sort of the minimum winning race time might be? [00:24:39] Tito Nazar (guest): that's a big one? Um, well, I already have my cartoon one possible winner. His name is, I'm going to say him because he saw the race. When I invented the race, he was the first guy who saw the circuit, the final circuit. Some other friends helped me, uh, I have to name him because he's a very. Great inspiration for ultra community. His name is Canuto Razoris. We've done some crazy stuff together. Actually, we did the Everest thing, road cycling together. And next week, Andres Tagle, the, uh, maybe the best graveler we have in the country. He saw the circuit. I mean, next, next week he did the Everest thing. Since then we became friends and. He saw the Gravel de Fuego concept and he was like, Tito, I'm so in, this is the best, the best race ever. Let's do it. He, he will not do the sprint. I think he will go for the thousand, but if somebody of that caliber will go, he can make the race in nothing. I don't know. I would have to do the math, but it would be 23Ks. I can, let me do it real quick. But people that are very fast and it's legal to draft, so they can do it very quick. Um, they can do it under seven hours. If not less. Andres is detonated. We say in Spanish, Andres is detonated. It's, it's, he's reaching levels that are, he's going probably, I'm guessing he's going to unbound and he's going for something big. Um, let's pray for [00:26:03] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, interesting. We'll have to keep our eyes open for him. And then the, the um, The 1000k event, totally different, you know, ball game. You're, you're talking about six and a half days [00:26:16] Tito Nazar (guest): Yes. [00:26:17] Craig Dalton (host): To complete it on the, on the outside, talk a little bit about that experience. You mentioned earlier that it goes down into, um, Tierra del Fuego. So you'll, you'll do the same loop as the sprint, but also head way down to the very, very Southern tip, right? [00:26:33] Tito Nazar (guest): Yes. That's right. Allow me to say just a little thing because when people hear Patagonia, they hear, they think wind, wind, and then they think rain, rain. And this is very important, uh, Craig, uh, we did the racing on April with, that is autumn is fall. It's not summer. And the question is why don't you do it in summer? I mean, it's warmer. The answer is yes, but yes, it's warmer, but the wind is way stronger in our spring and our summer way more. So that's why people think of wind because they come in the high season when, when they think it's better. But the thing is in fall, the amount of wind is way less, it's way less, like, I don't know, way slower. I'm saying 80 percent of the max wind speed you get to have in summer, uh, you have only 20 percent that speed. In April, and the same happens with the rains when it rains. It rains a lot in summer, but if it does in April, it could be more like a shower. So eventually you just can keep pedaling, but it's, it is colder. Of course it is colder, but it's not extreme cold. So it's what, and the, and finally is the landscape because Patagonia is great. But sadly, what people don't know, and I guess I don't know if it's sad or not, but what I'm trying to share is the most beautiful contrasts of colors you get to have them in, in April because it's fall. So the, the trees are orange. So you have the glaciers that are already, and then you have the high mountains already with snow because it's freezing on top of them. But you get to have this contrast of these trees with green and the farther you go South is orange. And that's why. And finally, we did the circuit in a way where if there is wind. It's going to be on your tail. That's why it [00:28:19] Craig Dalton (host): I was going to, [00:28:20] Tito Nazar (guest): to south. [00:28:21] Craig Dalton (host): I was going to ask you that because the coast of California is the same way. It can have a ripping wind, but you know, nine days out of 10, it's always going to be from the North to the South. [00:28:31] Tito Nazar (guest): Exactly the same here. I mean, I'm speaking from a point of view of mathematics, something, some, this is Patagonia. Everything is unpredictable. Sometimes, of course we can have great wind, but if it does, once again, it should be on your tail, not on your head, not in your head, which is awful. So. Yeah, that is very, very, very important to be mentioned because there is an explanation for choosing not summer, right? [00:28:56] Craig Dalton (host): exactly. So this, this, um, 1000 K course also has a pretty significant amount of climbing. So you're obviously picking some of that up in the, in the first sprint loop, but then as you go South, are you going over large mountain peaks along the way? [00:29:15] Tito Nazar (guest): No, it's very fascinating because when you go to Torres del Paine area, as we talked, you get to see the mountains, but then you go south and it's fascinating because. Eventually, when you go south, then you're going to go east following the extreme border of Argentina. Technically, many places you're going to look to your left, and that is going to be Argentina itself. Like you, you can literally cross illegally to Argentina. Um, not that I have done it, uh, but, uh, it's fascinating. I promise you. that area is so flat. It's so flat. It's, I have pictures posted already. I've never seen something like that, not on gravel, like infinite flatness of a straight road for miles, for miles, I promise you, and then you go South once again, and then you are as soon as long as you're going more and more South, you're somehow approaching a mountain range, which is not famous is called Darwin mountain range that is just before the ocean that touches the Antarctica, the farther you go South, You get to climb, but, um, but it's very graveling, rolling, very decent pace, most of the circuit. And when I say this, I'm saying of 70 percent of the circuit, the rest of it, especially at the end, very, very end, you get to have mountains for real. And they're beautiful, but it's the final challenge. [00:30:38] Craig Dalton (host): That's right. How do you imagine cyclists approaching the thousand K in terms of where will they be sleeping? What does that end up looking like? [00:30:48] Tito Nazar (guest): That's a good question. Um, what, what we did is in the website, we created something called. I don't know English, but it's like, uh, it's like, um, we call it the guide of the race and we put every single campaign, hostel, hotel where you can sleep. So you somehow you can make a schedule of where you can sleep, where you're going to go. So, or maybe as you are writing, you can arrange a bed for you to be waiting, to be waiting for you. Um. I think I'm pretty sure it's something like not many races of this distance to have, and we're very proud of it because you can somehow be more safe because in other races, it's like from point A from point B follow the circuit. Good luck. See you soon. And you have, you have to fix it for yourself to give more safety for the people we did so, so I can tell you, and actually we have 12 checkpoints. Many races of this distance, they have only, I don't know, two or three, by a miracle, five checkpoints. We have twelve. And most of them, they're hotels, hostels, so if you're tempted to, for a hot shower, you'll have it. If you don't have money, or you don't want to spend money, many of them, they have, like, a place for you to put a, set a tent. I have friends that they're coming like this, that crazy, um, more sacrificed style. Um, but also if you're graveling and you want to crash it, um, you can program very well many places to stay, even though there's not many, much traffic, not many cars moving along the circuit, just ourselves. Um, when I say ourselves, the, the organizers where we have eight vehicles for safety. Um, there are many places where you can be sleeping and you're not going to be so, so. Abandoned in the nothingness of the Patagonia, [00:32:38] Craig Dalton (host): And will, will the same, uh, would you make the same comment about the ability to resupply with food and water? [00:32:45] Tito Nazar (guest): um, for the two 50 case, they're very safe in the, actually there's the, um, the big loop also. I mean, the big circuits, because the force, the first four checkpoints, they will have water isotonic and some fruits. So that will make it for most of it. I mean, especially for the sprint, but the, for the rest of the guys, uh, I have arranged a few spots where. Uh, where they can buy food, uh, and many places, as I said, they have, they have hostels, hotels and nice people that they want to be involved with the community and this event. I have seen them a few, a few times making sure that it will be open and many of them are just waiting these people like, and so, yeah, they will find food. But of course, the thousand K's have to be a little more careful. You know, the type of nutrition they require is different. The amount of calories, uh, but it's all mostly settled. Yeah, [00:33:42] Craig Dalton (host): Gotcha. And it looks like at some point you have to cross a waterway. Is there a ferry that the riders will be taking? [00:33:48] Tito Nazar (guest): that's right. Um, yeah, I'm very excited about it because that requires logistics from the point of view of the, the, the athletes, right? Um, I've done the math and, um, and most of the winners. Uh, they shall not have to wait for the ferry to, I mean, here's the thing. The ferry works from, I don't remember, I think from eight in the morning until 23 PM. Uh, 23 hours that, so that's a huge gap, but that doesn't guarantee everybody will cross. So first of all, just before the ferry, 2016 miles before the ferry, maybe there is a town that I already have talked many, uh, have had many meetings with them. They're going to supply us, uh, like a gymnasium where they have beds and everything for emergency. If people want to stay, if people want to pay for more comfort, that's no problem. Um, But I would say like the 40 maybe more, maybe 55 percent 40 percent of the strongest of the racers will make it without waiting for the ferry, because this ferry is crossing from the continent to the island. Um, every 30 minutes, maybe an hour at the most it's a 20 minute minutes cross. And it's beautiful because you're crossing what is called the Magellanic Strait. Before the Panama channel, the only way you can make it to the other side, right. I think it was discovered in [00:35:06] Craig Dalton (host): That was the farthest I ever made it. I made it to the side of the Straits of Magellan on the northern side to look at the strait, but I didn't make it across. [00:35:15] Tito Nazar (guest): You see? Yeah. So I'm not lying. You see? Um, so yeah, I think there is like a deep symbolism in it because it's also brings adventure. It brings more, more of a challenge, but also. Maybe once again, maybe you want to take it slow. I have, we have people from Spain and they want to take it slow. They want to take the six days and a half and they want to sleep just before the ferry, because they just want to see everything on daylight. So everything has been done like thinking of that, like gravel races, but they don't want to wait for the ferry. Would they just want to get to the other side as fast as possible? I think we are going to manage that slower. People can make it to the other side without waiting. Yes. Some others. We'll be forced to be waiting. Of course. I mean, there is a schedule, but, um, I think it's, I want to believe it's well, very well [00:36:03] Craig Dalton (host): it was the perfect, you mentioned the, those final mountains. I think they were, they were the Magellan mountains. Are they on Tierra del Fuego? [00:36:13] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah, no, but they are the Darwin mountain range. We are, as you are getting close by. Yeah, that's all right. Um, so many names. It's like, there's no way I know all the mountains in your country. And no worries. Um, the Darwin mountain range, as I said, yes. You're getting so close to them that that's why you have this, um, this, we call them peaks. Um, and it's funny because in between, before every climb, there is a lagoon on, not a lagoon, um, how do you say, a lake on the other side. And they're very famous for fly fishing. Actually, my father. Walked to the first lake. It took him three days to get there because there was no road before you had to go, no GPS, like it's crazy. I have pictures of my father climbing those mountains that now you can do go on a bicycle in a super safe way. Um, but yeah, it's beautiful. I mean, the last 300 case. I mean, everything has its beauty, right? Because, um, Torres del Paine National Park, it's mind blowing. There are no words. You have to see it until you see it. And then you see, and then you understand. And it's going to be in your heart forever. Then you deal with the Pampa, which is the steep, you say in English, with this total flatness that drives you crazy. But it's like super graveling, fast rolling. Uh, there is a video where I'm pedaling, I don't know, 20 something miles per hour. On aero mode, like flying over the course, and then you have some sections of the Pampa and the final 200 miles are just too impressive. It's too beautiful because then you get to dive yourself into the, into the forest. And there are some sections where it's just, you're in caves covering this beautiful, um, I don't know. It's hard to say it in English. Um. Because I do believe this, I do feel this race is, I don't know for me, but here's the point, Greg, uh, if you do a race for one point for point a point B, it can be an experience, right? But I want to believe that ultra cycling, any ultra thing we do. There is an opportunity to know yourself and one of the best ways to know yourself is to be dive, like super dived into the nature, like in immersed, you know what I'm saying? There is a moment in life where you feel you're aware that you are you, but also you are somehow aware this is going to be too romantic, but you can be aware of the leaves. You can be aware of the dirt. You can be aware of the, of the water and somehow you really feel part of everything. I want to believe this race can give you that, especially in the beginning and at the bottom. [00:38:54] Craig Dalton (host): I, I love it, Tito. That was perfect. And I totally agree with you. There's something that that's sort of transcendent when you're on the bike for multiple days in a row, whether. It's as simple as bicycle touring or as adventurous as an event like this, you just become closer to nature than you ever could on a, on a day by day long bike ride. [00:39:15] Tito Nazar (guest): I meant to that, [00:39:16] Craig Dalton (host): Yes. So Tito, at the very end of this race, you're quite far away from where you started. What happens at the end? [00:39:26] Tito Nazar (guest): uh, well, I have to extract people. Here's the thing. Um, remember we spoke about the wind and everything we could make the race somehow to make you for you to return by yourself, pedaling from the South to the North. But as we talked before, the wind comes from the North from the Northwest. So that means probably the wind is going to be in your head. And even though it's, um, slower, less powerful compared to the summer, uh, we are taking everybody by ourselves. You get to the finish line. There is a sign that says end of the road. It's very perfect. And we're going to set up tents. And every time we gather four people, we get them on a, on a vehicle, on a pickup truck, and we have to drive them. We have to extract them from the islands to the main city, which is called Portvenir, where my mother was born. Um, and yeah, and, uh, that's how then they can take another ferry. This is another ferry because there are two access, uh, through the island. A small ferry that is in the race, but then there is a longer one, which is like an hour and a half on this ferry to where you get to the capital of the region that is Punta Arenas. Um, so, so, but it's a long road. I mean, we have to drive them like, I don't know, from this, from the finish to the city, Porvenir. Oof, almost four hours. And before that, we fall, we drop them to the, in the city. We give them as a gift, the, uh, the, I don't know the gift, I guess. I'm sorry. We give them the access to see the penguin. Remember I told you we work in, I work in the King penguin. Protected area. Okay. Um, we already talked to the owners, um, to the people over there and the money of the entrance for the pink king penguin is goes directly into the protection of these king penguins and, and participants can see them directly as a gift [00:41:15] Craig Dalton (host): That's, that's so much fun. Tell it, tell us again when, when is the event happening? What's the event date? [00:41:23] Tito Nazar (guest): April 13th, all the way to the 20th. A bunch of days. [00:41:29] Craig Dalton (host): And when the listeners of this podcast want to book their tickets and come to the event, how do you, how do you get there? Do you fly into Santiago and then fly south? [00:41:39] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah. If, for example, in your case, like anybody, everybody's case, um, situation, they have to fly to Santiago. Well said, uh, to the capital of the country, that's Santiago of Chile. And from Santiago of Chile, there are too many flights, uh, all the way. My recommendation would be to fly to Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas, which means, it means Sandy Point. Um, Punta Arenas is P U Q, um, if you want to look for the airport and there are buses all the time going to Puerto Natales, where the race really starts. Um, it's for a small fee must be like, well, with the bike might be. 10, 000 Chilean pesos, which is, I don't know, 14. Um, but yeah, my recommendation would be to fly to Santiago, Santiago, Punta Arenas, Punta Arenas, a bus, which is three hours bus from Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales. It's crazy. [00:42:30] Craig Dalton (host): like that's part of, it's part of the Patagonian experience spending some time on a bus. [00:42:35] Tito Nazar (guest): If you want to see the beautiness and loneliness of everything. Yeah, that's how it is. [00:42:40] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, amazing, amazing. Tito, thank you so much for coming on and telling us about Gravel del Fuego. I hope the event is a big success. I know from experience the region is absolutely stunning, and it's amazing that you've taken the time to put this route together, and I can't wait for gravel cyclists all around the world to come and experience this region. [00:43:02] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you for your time, Craig. Um, I want to put this, uh, recorded you're welcome. Uh, if you want to come to the race, just, um, let's see if you are crazy. And when I have this crazy adventure with me and experience the Patagonia one more time on two wheels, um, it will be an honor. I do mean it. I mean, I listened to your podcast. I mean, it will be an honor. So yeah, I want you [00:43:28] Craig Dalton (host): would, I would love that and appreciate it, and I will a hundred percent get to Patagonia again in my lifetime. It's just, it's too special a place not to revisit in, in, in my lifetime. Once again, [00:43:40] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you. Thank you for your [00:43:41] Craig Dalton (host): again, Tito. That's going to do it for this week's edition of the gravel ride podcast. And in fact, at December 19th, that's going to be our last episode for the year and we'll pick it up again. In 2024. Huge. Thanks to all you listeners for supporting me this year. I wouldn't do it without your feedback and encouragement big, thanks to all the sponsors, including this week sponsor. Dynamic cyclists. If you, as an individual are interested in supporting the show, one of the best things you can do for me is leave me a strong rating or review on your favorite podcast platform that really helps with discoverability or feel free to visit. Buy me a coffee.com/the gravel ride. If you're able to support us financially. Until next time. And until next year, here's to finding some dirt under your wheels.  

The Struggle Climbing Show
Magnus Midtbø & Till Gross: Learning from the Best Climbers

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 14, 2023 63:51


Elite climber Magnus Midtbø returns to The Struggle with his business partner, Till Gross, to share their perspective on how climbers can improve at the sport by accessing A-list coaches and other climbing resources online.   - Magnus and Till are developing a pretty ambitious and impressive online coaching platform that includes some of the biggest names in the sport including Adam Ondra, Alex Megos, Hazel Findlay, Dave MacLeod, and Daniel Woods just to name a few. And in developing these courses, Magnus and Till are learning how us climbers can best absorb new information and apply it to our training and climbing… something that can help us all to level up, whether we work with a coach in person, scrape YouTube for the latest training advice, or enroll in Adam Ondra's course that he's building with Magnus and Till. We also touch on other topics, including the one thing Magnus learned when he was a newer climber that totally changed the game for him, what Magnus's big climbing goal is these days, and the YouTube video idea that ended up being just too sketchy for Magnus to go through with. Hint… it involves cheese. - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE: Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk at a great price, and check out all of Magnus's other favorite gear. Enter to win a YEAR supply of Magdust and other rad prizes or discounts at Rungne.com PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order. CLICK HERE to view recent scientific studies on the efficacy of collagen and other supplements.  - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - Score instant access to 30+ hours of bonus content, including Pro Clinics, uncut videos, and ad-free episodes, and rad swag by supporting the show at  www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  

The Power Company Podcast
Hubble vs. Action Directe | The World's First 14d (9a), Featuring Alex Megos and Buster Martin

The Power Company Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 12, 2023 53:51


Two of the legendary routes from the 90s are now at odds with each other (sort of). One of them was likely the first 9a in the world, but which was it? Hubble or Action Directe? In this bonus episode from Written In Stone, we examine the circumstances, discuss where the debate began, and hear from the only two people in the world who have climbed both routes – Alex Megos and Buster Martin – to try and decide once and for all... ...which route was really the world's first 9a? Cameos by Adam Ondra, Steve McClure, Ben Cossey, and Ben Moon himself.   This is an episode of Written In Stone: Climbing's Most Important Ascents, the latest podcast from Power Company Climbing & Plug Tone Audio. Find more episodes everywhere you get pods or learn more at: www.plugtoneaudio.com/written-in-stone   The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes ad-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month! Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.  

action buster hubble cameos directe adam ondra ben moon steve mcclure alex megos plug tone audio
The Struggle Climbing Show
Magnus Midtbø

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 7, 2023 82:53


Elite climber Magnus Midtbø shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game - Magnus is a wildly successful YouTuber, with more than two million subs at the time of this recording, and his videos – a mix of climbing content and general feats of strength and resilience – have amassed hundreds of millions of views. He's also an elite climber with incredible accomplishments indoors and out. In his teens and twenties, Magnus was a dominant force on the IFSC circuit, logging over a dozen wins including Youth World Champion. He was, and still is, one of the strongest climbers in the world – with sport ascents up to 5.15b (9b), and onishghts up to 5.14c (8c+). He's also notched many 9a and 9a+ routes, including Thor's Hammer in Flatanger. These days you're more likely to find Magnus climbing impressively hard boulders in his gym in Oslo, sometimes on video with crusher guests including Adam Ondra and Will Bosi… and sometimes just by himself, no cameras, to unwind after a hard day of editing his latest million-view video. In this conversation, Magnus opens up fully about his struggles, learnings, fears, and dreams. - CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:10:10 Training: 0:11:33 Nutrition: 0:32:18 Tactics: 0:43:08 Mental Game: 0:55:17 Purpose: 1:01:00 - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @magmidt and @thestruggleclimbingshow - BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE: SCARPA: Whether you're a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far. KAYA Climb: 50+ bouldering guidebooks right on your phone, whether you have signal or not! Plus GPS-pinned boulders and over 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download a free version, and get 20% the PRO version HERE Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk at a great price, and check out all of Magnus's other favorite gear. Enter to win a YEAR supply of Magdust and other rad prizes or discounts at Rungne.com - The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world. - Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! I hope your training and climbing are going great.  

Rock and Joy
#268 Adam Ondra: entrenamiento, nutrición, proyectos y ¿9c+?

Rock and Joy

Play Episode Listen Later Nov 24, 2023 34:19


Encuentra el libro en arte.rockandjoy.com En este episodio entrevisto Adam Ondra, seguramente el mejor escalador de roca del mundo, poco más hay que decir. En esta entrevista busco su lado más humano, conocer al Adam que está detrás de los vídeos. Si te ha gustado por favor suscríbete, me puedes encontrar en Spotify y por supuesto en rockandjoy.com. Comparte y deja un comentario, estaré encantado de responderte. El mundo es tu rocódromo, sal ahí fuera y disfrútalo!

Rock and Joy
#267 conoce a Adam Ondra, ¿Cómo es ser el mejor escalador del mundo?

Rock and Joy

Play Episode Listen Later Nov 16, 2023 43:43


Encuentra el libro en arte.rockandjoy.com En este episodio entrevisto Adam Ondra, seguramente el mejor escalador de roca del mundo, poco más hay que decir. En esta entrevista busco su lado más humano, conocer al Adam que está detrás de los vídeos. Si te ha gustado por favor suscríbete, me puedes encontrar en Spotify y por supuesto en rockandjoy.com. Comparte y deja un comentario, estaré encantado de responderte. El mundo es tu rocódromo, sal ahí fuera y disfrútalo!

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 191: Jesse Firestone Returns — Finding Silver Linings, How to Move Like Adam Ondra, and Key Benefits of Visualization

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Oct 24, 2023 117:28


Jesse Firestone is back on the podcast! We talked about his injury this spring and finding silver linings, why he focused more on weight training than climbing this summer, shifting his priorities to spending more time on projects, biggest lessons from the past three years of coaching, Adam Ondra's hip flexibility, how to become more flexible through climbing, why visualization is an excellent use of your time, and much more!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/60nuggetUse code "60NUGGET" at checkout for 60% off plus free shipping!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Zach EmerySupport on Patreon:  patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Show Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/jesse-firestone-returnsNuggets:0:05:53 – Jesse's Winter and Spring season, his wrist injury, and his trip to Fontainebleau0:11:53 – Losing muscle, falling into our own pitfalls, and a sales pitch for having a coach0:15:45 – Stoic philosophy, finding the silver lining, and why Jesse climbed a lot less than usual over the summer0:18:49  – Being stubborn about rock climbing, and plans to balance that with more weight lifting0:20:32 – Why Jesse is moving toward less volume and more projecting0:25:31 – Work capacity0:29:48 – My summer trip, and what I would do the same vs differently to prepare next time0:34:22 – Chasing the highs, and the reset of a bad injury0:37:29 – Being content with not sending my project in Rocklands, and Jesse and I talk about struggling to find inspiration there0:43:53 – What I've realized about active rest days in Rocklands0:47:57 – Why Jesse didn't set any goals on paper in 20230:49:57 – Thai0:51:25 – How Jesse's coaching business has evolved, and how he uses Instagram0:56:03 – “A good coach knows when to be a window and when to be a mirror.”0:56:33 – Lessons from Jesse's first few years of coaching1:05:23 – How coaching has led him to being a more compassionate person1:08:43 – Summary of coaching lessons1:09:33 – Intent vs. content of training1:12:55 – Adam Ondra's hip flexibility, writing a book, and how to improve flexibility through climbing1:22:10 – Having a positive attitude about your flexibility1:29:55 – 3 benefits of visualization for climbers1:39:53 – The nuts and bolts of visualization1:46:47 – Jesse puts his coach hat on and encourages me to climb faster1:51:47 – Visualization for onsighting, and Adam Ondra's onsight of Just Do It1:54:20 – Wrap up

The Struggle Climbing Show
Coach Chat: Tom Randall

The Struggle Climbing Show

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 27, 2023 48:27


Tom and Ryan explore how training should be adjusted in the 4-6 weeks before send-season, what exercises to cut as the season arrives, an often-overlooked red point tactic, and behind-the-scenes stories from when Adam Ondra was in the cellar. Plus, Patron questions!  - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors: Friction Labs: Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com.    KAYA Climb: 50+ bouldering guidebooks right on your phone, whether you have signal or not! Plus GPS-pinned boulders and over 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download a free version, and get 20% the PRO version HERE - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 20+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron.  Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app.  - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!

ČT24
Interview ČT24 - Adam Ondra (24. 9. 2023)

ČT24

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 25, 2023 49:42


Host: Adam Ondra, lezec https://www.ceskatelevize.cz/porady/10095426857-interview-ct24/223411033200008/

EpicTV Climbing Chatter
Katie Lamb Shatters Barriers: First Woman to Climb A V16 Boulder

EpicTV Climbing Chatter

Play Episode Listen Later Sep 7, 2023 11:49


Welcome back to the Wednesday News Show, with this fully packed show you can tell we're in SENDtember! From some epic deathly E10 climbs, to possibly a 9b first ascent, to the multitude of climbing competitions that went over the weekend where surprise surprise Adam Ondra and Janja Garnbret won (one of the many spoilers so beware!) The major news of Katie Lamb sending Box Therapy V16 dropped just when we were done filming, so subscribe so you won't miss next week's episode we unpack this historical send!EpicTV Deal of the Week

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 178: Ethan Pringle Returns — Two Things He Does Every Day, Taking Your Time, and Honoring His Dad

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Jul 24, 2023 146:42


Ethan Pringle is back on the podcast! We talked about our first few weeks in Rocklands, the style of climbing here, his plans to try Monkey Wedding 8C, nemesis boulders, micromanaging holds, two habits that Ethan does every day, taking your time while executing hard moves, adjusting on holds, and Ethan talked about his dad's life after his stroke, his final weeks, and his passing on November 6, 2022.Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out AG1!drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasEthan's Other Episodes:EP 21: Ethan Pringle (Jun 2020)Follow-Up: Ethan Pringle (Oct 2020)EP 44: Steven Dimmitt (feat. Ethan Pringle) (Nov 2020)A Call from Ethan (Jul 2021)Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ethan-pringle-returnsNuggets:0:03:49 – Princess Pringle0:06:13 – Rocklands Trip update0:11:24 – Feeling fit for bouldering after sport climbing0:14:14 – Ethan's haphazard approach, and following the psych0:20:04 – Monkey Wedding (8C/V15)0:21:43 – Being surprised at the tactics of some really strong climbers0:24:03 – Rapid firing dynamic moves0:26:09 – The style of climbing in Rocklands0:32:37 – Bonus cruxes and nemesis rigs (Black Mango Chutney and Dangle)0:40:20 – Munchy holds0:41:12 – Micromanaging holds0:44:56 – Pause0:45:57 – Ethan-ism #1: Rolling out0:48:33 – Ethan-ism #2: Drinking lots of water0:51:03 – The lacrosse ball, and lubricated tendons0:54:00 – The injurious style of Rocklands0:55:54 – Ethan-ism #3: “Take your time.”1:03:12 – Perfectionism and being detail oriented, and accessing beast mode1:07:12 – Wanting moves to feel good, and committing when they're not1:08:39 – More about the style in Rocklands, and funky moves1:10:02 – Adjusting on holds, and Adam Ondra on Perfecto Mundo and La Dura Dura1:15:18 – His dad's stroke1:20:12 – Ethan's sleeping injury1:26:08 – His dad's quality of life in the final years of his life1:33:10 – Honoring his dad, which parts of Ethan feel most like him, and how his dad didn't how to process and talk about feelings1:39:22 – How Ethan developed his emotional intelligence, and giving space to other people's thoughts and feelings1:44:21 – A shared life philosophy1:47:58 – The loniless of thinking your inner messiness isn't ok1:49:11 – What made Ethan feel the best when his dad passed away1:53:46 – His dad's passing on November 6th, 20222:03:19 – Living2:06:22 – Thinking about the future2:10:10 – Goals and evolution2:12:39 – Inspiration, the unpleasant nature of hard rock climbing, and Seb on Bibliographie2:16:59 – Goals for the rest of the Rocklands trip2:19:07 – Plans to do trip updates, and my first two weeks in Rocklands2:22:57 – Indoor camping vibes, and plans for the podcast

Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast

The world's best climber? Hell yeah! Adam Ondra gives us a tale of childhood, grades, Dawn Wall, comps and choss. Get in!

The Struggle Climbing Show

Elite climber Chris Sharma shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.    -   Chris needs absolutely zero introduction but it's worth hitting a few of the highlights because it's so absolutely mind boggling when you're reminded what he has achieved in this sport. At just 14 years old he won the adult US bouldering nationals. At 15 he freed the hardest route in North America at the time, 14c Necessary Evil. At just 20 years old Chris sent the world's first consensus 5.15a, Ceuse's Biographie / AKA Realization. He was also the first to climb 15b with Jumbo Love, and the second to climb 15c, just after Adam Ondra, as the two of them worked together on La Dura Dura. Chris also took deep water soloing to groundbreaking new levels when he sent the king line of Es Pontas, 15a, in Mallorca. He later put down a 15b deep water solo, Alasha, which is the hardest of the discipline. Chris has been dominating for so long, that it might be easy to simply refer to his groundbreaking contributions in the past tense… but that would be a mistake. Chris, just a couple months ago, sent his HARDEST route EVER, Sleeping Lion in Siurana, of which he gave the grade of 5.15c. Chris climbs with such flow, and carries himself with an almost mythical yogi demeanor, it'd be understandable to just assume there hasn't been a whole lot of struggle for him throughout his three decades at the top of the sport. But as you'll hear today, there's been plenty of struggle, both physically and mentally. Today Chris opens up with stories that I don't believe he's ever shared before.   -   Follow along on Instagram @chris_sharma and @thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   The Struggle is on YouTube, y'all! I'm so psyched. Watch the best moments of my interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   Crimpd is the official fitness app sponsor of The Struggle. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.    PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.   -   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.   -   Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   -   Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.   -   This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   -   The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!  

Jam Crack - The Niall Grimes Climbing Podcast

The young Scot owns the strongest fingers in the game and he has pointed them at many of the UK's hardest routes, and they have quivered before his might. In this podcast we chat early days, Malcolm Smith, Adam Ondra, Burden of Dreams, Excalibur, his diet and much much more. Much fun!

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 159: Tom Randall & Sam Van Boxtel — Why YouTube is the Future of Climbing Media, and How Much $$ YouTubers Make

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Mar 6, 2023 119:14


Tom Randall and Sam Van Boxtel are back on the podcast to discuss all things YouTube! We talked about YouTube as the future of climbing media, why Shawn Raboutou's vlog is such a big deal in climbing right now, why I started a channel for The Nugget, how much money YouTubers make, the keys to being successful on YouTube, top advice for all content creators, and much more!Check out The Nugget on YouTube:youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingTom's Other Episodes:EP 75: Tom Randall (June 21, 2021)Follow-Up: Tom Randall (Feb 17, 2022)Sam's Other Episodes:EP 134: Sam Van Boxtel (Sept 5, 2022)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Grasshopper Climbing!grasshopperclimbing.cominstagram.com/grasshopperclimbingTell them I sent you to save $500 off a fully kitted out 8'x10' Grasshopper board! Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and RenzollamaBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tom-and-samNuggets:0:08:10 – Pee bottles, Tom's advice for vanlife peeing activities0:10:11 – The Ultimate Peeing Van Bodily Fluid Dilema0:12:57 – Welcoming Tom and Sam back on the podcast, and their other episodes (see show notes for links)0:13:59 – Tom's busy life, and being extremely intentional about what he chooses to do0:15:58 – Tom's quest to find the ultimate climbing  experience in a single pitch, and climbing ‘Once Upon a Time' E90:20:04 – Why are we recording an entire episode about YouTube?0:23:49 – How often Tom gets recognized from YouTube, and why he's so interested in where things are going0:26:10 – It's still early on YouTube0:28:32 – Why is Shawn Raboutou starting his Vlog one of the biggest things to happen in climbing media in recent years?0:33:11 – Why more pro climbers will likely move over to YouTube, and YouTube vs. Instagram payouts0:36:35 – Why is YouTube the future of climbing media?0:40:50 – Why long-form podcasts are similar to YouTube vlogs0:43:44 – Why I launched a YouTube channel for The Nugget (link in show notes!)0:46:20 – Why YouTube wins over static content0:49:46 – What Tom has learned from growing the Lattice Training channel0:52:57 – The importance of packaging your content well, the behind-the-scenes of YouTubing, comparing Anna Hazelnutt and Adam Ondra's channels, and how much it costs to run a YouTube channel1:00:25 – How technology levels the playing field for content creators1:01:49 – How much do people make on YouTube, and where does the money come from?1:07:27 – The keys to being successful on YouTube1:12:55 – How hard Magnus Midtbø works to make his channel successful (see show notes for his podcast episode)1:14:09 – Sam's 3 keys to being successful on YouTube: Title, Topic, and Thumbnail1:16:40 – The importance of organization and systems1:19:12 – Sam's recommendations for The Nugget's channel, and filling out the ecosystem of the channel1:23:58 – Tom's advice for me, and making content specific to the platform you plan to share it on1:32:49 – Why aren't brands doing more on YouTube?1:36:09 – What should climbing brands be doing as far as YouTube is concerned?1:40:21 – Behind the scenes with brand sponsorships1:43:55 – Tom's advice for anyone who is thinking of starting a YouTube channel, and the hard work it takes to be successful1:48:59 – What Tom is most excited to see on YouTube1:50:36 – What Sam is most excited to see on YouTube1:51:39 – What I am most excited to see on YouTube1:53:23 – Wrap up, Tom's upcoming trip to Austria, and Sam's upcoming trips in the States1:57:57 – Watch full uncut podcast videos on Patreon

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 148: Alan Watts (Repost) — A Life at Smith Rock, Eating Every Other Day, and Meeting Adam Ondra

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Dec 19, 2022 146:01


I often get asked, “what is your favorite interview you've ever done?” Firstly, I don't have a favorite. But if I HAD TO CHOOSE ONE, it would be this episode. Alan Watts is a fascinating character in climbing history and a personal hero of mine. This interview was such a treat. I loved revisiting it for this repost. Enjoy!*This episode was originally published in EP 04, in February 2020.Alan Watts is widely regarded as the founding father of Smith Rock, and was a key player in the development of sport climbing in America. He established the first 5.13d in America with ‘East Face Crack' in 1985—just shy of the world standard. We talked about eating every other day, his paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to face climbing, wearing Wolfgang's shirt, meeting Adam Ondra, and his “little slice of contribution” to the sport of climbing. Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android) We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, and Yinan Liu Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alan-watts-repostNuggets:0:09:16 – The evolution of dirtbagging, early road life, Smith as a safe zone, “there were no routes”0:14:07 – Eating every other day0:26:47 – Abstainers vs moderators0:31:02 – Bill Ramsey, UO, and climbing “every variation imaginable” at the Columns0:36:03 – Connecting with the people you need0:38:40 – Inferiority complex and pushing to improve0:40:04 – A paradigm shift from freeing aid climbs to climbing faces0:46:11 – Stumbling upon sport climbing and going from being a decent climber to a really good climber0:48:29 – Redpoint tactics, ethics, and borrowing from the Europeans0:52:39 – ‘Corner No. 1', how ‘Chain Reaction' got its name, and reaching the world standard at Smith Rock0:54:28 – 11b to 13d in six years, ‘Punks in the Gym', and pushing world standards0:55:44 – Meeting Heinz Zak and Wolfgang's t-shirt0:58:52 – Pioneering Smith Rock film by Hydro Flask, and going back to the summer of '85, and ‘East Face Crack' 5.13d1:04:01 – Other hard crack climbs and ‘Double Stain'1:05:25 – 7 days prepping ‘Sunshine Wall' and the story of ‘To Bolt or Not to Be'1:11:34 – Climbing every day, injuries, and killing the goose that laid the golden eggs1:22:15 – Hip surgery and meeting Adam Ondra1:31:00 – Adam's post about meeting Alan, and Adam's onsight of ‘Just Do It' 5.14c1:36:52 – Adam's photo book (Alan-“What the hell? How did I make the cut?”)1:38:17 – The Awl project, “I do not want to FAIL!”1:40:44 – Bolting futuristic projects, thinking anything was possible, and bolting ‘Just Do It' for a TV show in 19891:48:23 – “I used to visualize before that was what you were supposed to do”1:52:00 – “Fucking hard green route”1:54:15 – Alan's finger strength, hanging from one hand for (almost) a minute, and gym vs. outdoor climbing2:01:18 – The updated Smith Rock guidebook2:02:26 – Alan's box of tights2:05:20 – The 100 book list and projecting difficult books2:10:27 – Working on the guidebook and connecting with the people2:15:19 – The (lack of) ways to connect with Alan2:17:01 – A slice of contribution in a little tiny sport2:19:53 – “He's cheating”, and Alan's funny recurring dream

The Nugget Climbing Podcast
EP 140: Tommy Caldwell — Undone Lines on El Cap, Father-Son Relationships, and Exploring the Limits of Human Endurance

The Nugget Climbing Podcast

Play Episode Listen Later Oct 19, 2022 112:17


Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:0:07:08 – What is your Dawn Wall?0:07:59 – Tommy's injury and his canceled trip to Germany0:09:53 – Tommy's Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability0:15:21 – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy's climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)0:17:35 – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO0:20:17 – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor0:23:05 – Matty Hong's repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy's thoughts on the grade0:25:20 – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris0:28:48 – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering0:30:04 – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do0:31:56 – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?0:34:00 – Patron Question from Atlin: What's the next big objective that hasn't been done in Yosemite?0:35:16 – Leo Houlding's vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold0:38:46 – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainbleau0:41:13 – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches0:46:42 – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?0:47:55 – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?0:58:12 – Tommy's TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything1:01:11 – Toenail fungus, and Tommy's experience with Lamisil1:04:53 – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work1:07:09 – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad1:14:32 – Tommy's parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”1:18:07 – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?1:19:47 – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?1:25:10 – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?1:26:34 – The story behind Tommy's repeated achilles injury1:31:19 – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?1:33:16 – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos1:35:20 – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?1:36:21 – The king line on El Cap1:40:39 – Future linkups in Yosemite1:42:51 – Tommy's favorite Disney movie1:43:30 – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience1:46:13 – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners1:48:29 – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?1:48:52 – Big wall pooping stories1:51:16 – Another book?1:52:28 – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine1:55:25 – Wrap up