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Tyler Thompson is one of the best young sport climbers in America with multiple 5.15 ascents and over 100 5.14 sends.Tyler shares his perspectives on sport climbing in America and why sport climbing hasn't grown as quickly as bouldering.And we get to hear some of his hard earned wisdom about how to become and better climber and why there are no shortcuts to time on the rock.SHOW NOTES:Tyler's InstagramTyler's YouTube ChannelFull Metal Brisket (15a)Support the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
In this episode, Kyra chats with Jesse Grupper, her good friend, roommate, and fellow Olympian. Jesse and Kyra start off by sharing some insight into their house and their similarities and differences when it comes to training mindset and planning. Jesse shares his thoughts about being an "underdog" in the past and how its helped him push himself and his limits while achieving benchmarked goals along the way. They then talk about how that's changed throughout the years. Jesse shares insight into why he feels so restless on rest days and him and Kyra chat about how climbers can try to use their platform to make a positive impact.
Japanese Sport Climbing Silver Medalist Anraku to Turn Professional This Spring
In this episode of Circle Up!, Kyra and Allison revisit a conversation Kyra had with Dan about climbing with a romantic partner—this time, flipping the script and asking Allison for her take. The two dive into the nuances of sharing projects, time, and training with someone you're dating, leading to a bigger discussion on how relationships intersect with high-level climbing. Then, Kyra breaks down her experience at a recent grip competition in LA, what she learned, and why grip sport might actually be a secret weapon for climbing performance. Tune in for a mix of deep conversation, laughs, and some unexpected takeaways! There was a technical difficulty while filming/recording this episode so they had to re-record the end--sorry for the difference in sound!! If you would like to WATCH this episode, check out the full video on our Patreon: patreon.com/circleup
Kris sits down in Wyoming with two absolute legends from the 80's, Jibé Tribout and Arnould T'Kint, to talk about Patrick Edlinger and the birth of sport climbing as we know it. Belgian climbing legend Arnould T'Kint did the third 8a in the world, and the first outside of the US, as well as reportedly being the first to onsight 8a. Jibé Tribout is a French and world climbing legend who, through the 80's and 90's, was always at the leading edge of difficulty, from 13a to 14c. They discuss: Pushing grades in the 80's. The origins of free-climbing as a pursuit. The rivalry between Tribout and Patrick Edlinger. The scene at Buoux and Verdon in the 80's. The benefits of friendly competition at the crag. The first actual comps. Tribout playing the villain. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
Kris chats with French legend David Chambre, the author of one of the best and most beautiful reference books out there for 90's climbing history, The 9th Grade. David's previous book, co-written with Jibe Tribout, The 8th Grade, is a treasure trove of French climbing history of the late 1970's and early to mid 1980's. They discuss the influence of Patrick Edlinger on both French and world climbing history. Discussed in the episode: The difference between the two Patricks. The rivalry between the Parisians and Edlinger. Edlinger's influence on climbing culture. The effect of fame on Edlinger. Tribout's ability to provoke. French climbing history. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. Get David's Book The 9th Grade ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
Climb your dream. #Anime #Sport #Moe #Climbing #Bouldering Why do so many people hate anime?:- https://www.reddit.com/r/NoStupidQuestions/comments/17bg1ip/why_do_so_many_people_hate_anime/ Special thanks to these awesome artists for letting us use their music: Intro by ckotty3 - https://pixabay.com/users/ckotty3-25960960/ Outro by Playsound - https://pixabay.com/users/playsound-24686998/
As the end of the 1970's neared, climbers, more and more, the world over, were wondering the same thing. “How hard can we climb? In this setup episode we look at the factors that coalesced right there at the end of the 70's and beginning of the 80's to help pave the way for what we now call sport climbing. New equipment, new tactics, and most important, ushered in by a German giant named Kurt Albert, were new rules. Check out more here! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab. This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.
In this Pro Clinic, Dr. Tyler Nelson covers: How to build climbing endurance for bouldering, sport climbing, and multi-pitch climbing Blood Flow Restriction and other off-the-wall interventions to build capacity Utilizing a force gauge to program route-specific training How to train endurance when you're not able to get to the gym or crag Off-season vs On-season programming ideas Specific training interventions to maximize adaptations, reduce injury risk, and save time Training protocols for boulderers to recover faster between attempts, and route climbers to recover faster on route - Gain instant access to the FULL Pro Clinic by supporting the show as a Patron (you can even check it out for FREE with a 7-day trial): https://www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow Instantly access Tyler's courses on finger training, BFR, and other topics: https://www.camp4humanperformance.com/store - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard. Thanks for supporting the show, y'all. - And now here are some buzzwords to help the almighty algorithm get this show in front of people who love to climb: rock climbing, rock climber, climbing, climber, bouldering, sport climbing, gym climbing, how to rock climb, donuts are amazing. Okay, whew, that's done. But hey, if you're a human that's actually reading this, and if you love this show (and love to climb) would you think about sharing this episode with a climber friend of yours? And shout it out on your socials? I'll send you a sticker for doing it. Just shoot me a message on IG – thanks so much!
Lucia Li and Noah Steinberg are an up-and-coming climbing power couple. From Michigan, they call the Red River Gorge their home climbing area, and they are making sure to cement their place there. After using one of our Ebook training plans, they both had breakout seasons – and then they upped the ante the following season without any additional training. In this BUILDER episode, we discuss the plans they chose, how the training went, how they fit it into their busy lives, and ultimately, the details of the two seasons where they saw big progress, including how getting bit by a bat while on route might just give you superpowers. Find Lucia and Noah online at Beta Addicts. Follow Lucia and Noah on Instagram. _________________________
He's back! We got Alex Huber back on the show to chat about pushing sport climbs into 9a+, El Cap free routes, Wolfgang Güllich, controversial opinions and lot more. Go for your guns! For BMC insurance click here https://bit.ly/3ZtcR2W
Alex Huber rose to prominence in the early 1990s with ascents of what were the world's hardest sport climbs, consolidating the 9a grade and pushing on into 9a+. He brought his power to freeing the walls of El Cap and changed that mighty golden landscape forever adding the most popular and beautiful climbs on the great faces. At the same time, he brought his power and skill to much more serious and remote objectives in the Himalaya, Karakoram, Patagonia and the Arctic. Groundbreaking ascents followed in the Dolomites as well as top level free solos. His is one of the most significant climbers of recent times. Check it out.
Trad-monster James Pearson reflects on the early days of marching through the numbers to the top of grade-mountain and finding himself eventually on the edge of the cliff. Powerful stuff, lots of fun.
French-born ex-comp best turned lover of British hard trad mega-classics Caro sits down and answers some of her own questions - is that a thing? Super crack.
Chris and Will are taking you into the heart of day thirteen and fourteen of Olympic highlights, with coverage of Diving, Marathon Swimming, Golf, Canoe Sprint, Rhythmic Gymnastics, and Sport Climbing.
I don't want it to end! Has two weeks really passed that quickly? Honestly, my entire life and the daily rhythms of our household have come to revolve around the Olympic Games. There isn't a dinner that is cooked, a lunchbox that is prepared, a table that is wiped down, or a basket of washing that is folded without the steady hum of speed climbing, or synchronised diving, or the men's 800m repechage in the background. These are my takeaways from Paris 2024: First of all, I love the way in which history turns on the finest human margins. The men's 100m final was a great example, the way they broke the line in such a crowd, that both first and second recorded the same time on the TV and stadium clocks. With a microscope and a high-quality photo, apparently the silver medallist somehow broke the line first, but he did so with his foot, and ultimately it's whoever's chest breaks the line first that wins the race. History decided by five one-thousandths of a second. I said before the games that I was looking forward to the men's 1500m final and it didn't disappoint. The two favourites had been talked up so much, and had smack-talked each other so much, that basically everyone —including me— had worked themselves into a state where it looked like only those two runners could possibly win it. The defending champion was so cavalier that in the heats, he deliberately didn't crouch for the start of the race. He waited for the starting gun, let everyone else run off, and then casually trundled after them. But in the final, Jakob Ingebrigtsen's approach came back to bite him. He led for the first 85% of the race, setting a cracking pace as he tried to break his great rival, Britain's Josh Kerr. On the final stretch, Kerr looked to go round Ingebrigtsen, and Ingebrigtsen drifted into lane two to try and block the overtake. What do we know about geometry? The inside lane has the shortest path to the finish line. As the two favourites scrapped in lanes 2 and 3, an American runner, Cole Hocker, slipped up the inside and pipped them for Olympic glory. Kerr finished second, Ingebrigtsen fourth. It was extraordinary. With a day to go before the closing ceremony, here's my take on the Olympic sports. I love many of the newer ones. Sportclimbing is so good. It fits into my could-a-caveman-do-it category, which I think is an excellent measure for whether individual sports should be at the Olympics. I'm not just saying it because Finn Butcher won gold, but I reckon the Kayak Cross is fantastic. It's such a spectacle! Same applies to the skateboarding. It's so good. I mean no disrespect to any of the athletes in these sports but I'm ambivalent on surfing at the Olympics and as spectacular as the breakdancing is, it's gonna take me a bit longer to come around. Honestly, I don't think football should be at the Olympics. Same with tennis and golf. Those sports are big enough outside of the games. Maybe the best test should be whether or not the Olympics is the pinnacle competition in that respective sport. If it's not, then leave it out. One of the things that has been great about the games is how well-attended all of the events have been. The crowds for everything have been massive. I also love refreshing it is to hear from athletes who aren't rugby players who've had every scintilla of life and personality beaten out of them by overly-protective media managers. And as for my favourite Kiwi performance? We still have that incredible contest in the women's K1 to come and there are a couple of other Kiwis who could be a chance, but for me it's still gonna be hard to beat our very first medal of Paris '24, our very first gold: the women's sevens. Tell you what though... I don't love Mondays at the best of times... but this week is gonna' be tough. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations for Ryan Devlin as he closes in on completing his first 5.13a, a Red River Gorge classic named "The Force". This is a follow-up to episodes #86, #91, and #94, in which I coach Ryan through the long process of training for and working on his first-ever 5.13. You will hear where Ryan is at with his project--you'll learn some of his struggles along the way, including a minor finger/hand injury early this year. We'll discuss Ryan's training plan for the next 6 to 8 weeks until the Autumn "send season" arrives. We'll also dig deep into these important topics: What went right and wrong on the almost-send last season How to carry a project over from one season to the next The secret to being a successful route climber Aerobic vs Anaerobic endurance training The science of building route fitness Why many climbers are training endurance wrong So lean into this podcast and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration of Ryan's "The Struggle" podcast and my Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
We dive right in with some Olympics talk Justin think Noah Lyles is weird Forbes projected that it costs a total of $15 million to lodge the American basketball players Yusuf Dikec is a bad dude French Pole Vaulter's Bulge Costs Him an Olympic Medal How is Sport Climbing in the Olympics but ball hockey isn't? Tampon Tim is your new VP Candidate Is J.D. Vance wearing eyeliner?
Allison and Kyra give their thoughts on the first 4 days of the Paris 2024 Olympic Sport Climbing events. From heartbreaks to broken world records, there was so much excitement in the first 4 days that everyone is excited to see what the next two days has in store. From their own predictions of who will be on the podium to Kyra's insights on the emotional toll of the olympics; here are their unfiltered thoughts!
Sport Climbing is one of the newest additions to the Olympic sporting menu. In Paris, climbers tackle two distinct disciplines - boulder/lead, and speed climbing. In this special episode, we are joined by Tim Cross, a science writer with The Economist, to reveal the hidden side of sport climbing. We talk about the differences between these disciplines, and how the competitions are scored and won. We also about the physiological demands of the sport, the ideal body types for climbing, and how route design presents new challenges for climbers that means that climbing excellence is both art and science, mental and physical. Join DiscourseIf you're enjoying of Paris Daily podcasts, and generally love sports science, consider a small donation to become a Patron of the site, and get access to our Discourse community, where you can join like-minded fans and sports enthusiasts to keep the conversation going.The IFSC Policy for RED-S, as discussed on the podcastFor Discourse members only, Discourse Member Julia Littlefair shared some really interesting thoughts on the RED-S issue. This thread also includes links to other interesting material on this issue. Get bonus content on Patreon Hosted on Acast. See acast.com/privacy for more information.
Sport Climbing kicks off at the Olympics in Paris next week. It's a strength-to-weight ratio sport. Meaning, aside from your technique or mental game, the lighter you are relative to your strength, the easier it'll be to get up a wall. That's led some climbers to fall into the mindset that losing weight is the path to better performance. One recent study of 50 elite climbers found that more than a third intentionally lost weight before a competition — primarily by fasting and skipping meals, and occasionally by using laxatives, or vomiting. The mindset that lighter is better is what led one young climber, Jake Scharfman, to develop an unhealthy relationship with his weight. For sponsor-free episodes of Consider This, sign up for Consider This+ via Apple Podcasts or at plus.npr.org.Email us at considerthis@npr.org.Learn more about sponsor message choices: podcastchoices.com/adchoicesNPR Privacy Policy
Neil Gresham has been chomping hard at the climbing bit for nearly forty years, always pushing hard and changing his focus. In part 1 we hear about Sheffield in the 1990s. Get in!
Sport climbing is a recent addition to the Olympic arena. While we are all likely to have seen it on TV, relatively few of us have personally got our hands, and our feet, on the bolts. But that is about to change, as more and more people are getting inspired from competitions to be featured at the upcoming Paris Olympics. On the show: Laiming, Yushan & Josh Cotterill.
In this Pro Clinic, the Tension Crew covers: History of system boards and board culture Overview of popular boards and their strengths/weaknesses TB2 and what sets it apart Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced board tactics Utilizing adjustable angle and mirrored layout to speed up progression How to train sport climbing fitness on a board The best board climbers in the game Best shoes to wear for board climbing Cost overview of the TB2 - Follow along on Instagram and YouTube: @thestruggleclimbingshow, @tensionclimbing, @wllangln, and @mikerosay Score 15% off most things over at Tension Climbing by using code STRUGGLE15 HERE is the Bluetooth clicker thingy that Jesse Grupper uses to cue up the next climb while on the wall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin, and edited by Glen Walker. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Let's get out there and try hard.
Drew Ruana is one of the strongest boulders in the world. Period. He over a hundred V14+ sends, and lots of then are V16. While some other climbers may have that amount of blocs under their belt, no one has accumulated this many in such a short time.Drew goes into his infamous “Send Colorado” journey, which is his goal to send all V14 and up boulders in CO (nearly 200!). He shares some of the ones that are left giving him trouble (e.g. Megatron, V17). And he goes into some finer points of grading, including the difference between V14 and V16.Drew also loves to share the knowledge he's gained, and he's doing so by writing books and even replying to questions on Reddit!Drew talks about the most common mistakes he sees in climbers, the common plateaus climbers face, and his biggest tip — Play the long game and work your weaknesses!SHOW NOTES:Drew's YouTube ChannelSupport the Show.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Today, we are continuing our conversation with Evan Wisheropp. If you missed part one, I highly recommend checking it out first. It provides a foundation for understanding who Evan is as a climber and how he achieved the objectives we're discussing today.In this episode, we'll dive into Evan's two main passions: desert offwidth splitters and route development.First, we'll discuss Evan's recent send of The Cleaver, a 13b offwidth roof crack that, as Evan puts it, "contains all the hardest transitions of sizes that offwidth can offer, jumping from a splitter #2 to a #6 in less than 10 feet." We chat about the logistics and skills involved in sending not only this particular climb but all offwidths. We'll also dive into his next offwidth project, an extension to the infamous Belly Full of Bad Berries.Next, we'll explore Evan's passion for route development. Initially, Evan started developing routes because he ran out of 5.12s to climb in his local area. This quest for more climbs turned into a huge passion. Over the last nine years, he has established an impressive 475 routes in the Northwest region of California, investing nearly $60,000 of his own money. Many of these areas remain largely unknown to the public, offering hundreds of cleaned, bolted classic routes up to grade 5.13 with only a handful of ascents.Evan lives near the Redwoods, the largest trees in the world, situated on the Pacific coastline. His local crags are nestled in these magical areas, featuring rocky coastlines and massive Jurassic trees towering hundreds of feet tall. He recently published a guidebook for these areas, which you can check out in the show notes.Our conversation with Evan is a reminder of how much we can take for granted as climbers. We often show up to a climb that has been found, cleaned, and bolted, and leave without a thought of all the work that went into making that happen and who that person was. We feel honored to tell Evan's story and hope to spread some awareness, not only of his accomplishments and significant contributions to the sport of climbing but to route developers everywhere.----Don't forget to check our our full video episodes on Youtube!The TCM movement is growing but we need your help to spread the word! Please share this podcast with your friends and family. Word of mouth is one of the best ways to support the show. If you enjoyed the show we'd really appreciate it if you could rate and review us on your favorite podcatcher.We are always looking for new guests. If you or someone you know would be a great fit for the show please don't hesitate to reach out. You can reach us on IG or email us directly @ theclimbingmajoritypodcast@gmail.com---Cover Photo: @amanda_paintsResourcesThe CleaverEvan's InstagramEvan's YoutubeA Climbers Guide to Northwest CaliforniaEvan's Photography
Australian Olympic sports climbers Oceania Mackenzie and Campbell Harrison join Shane McInnes to discuss the world of sports climbing and their quest for gold at Paris 2024See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Jane Dutton speaks to Lauren Mukheibir the African Sport Climbing Champion & Marine biologist about taking part in the Paris Olympics as the African Sport Climbing Champion. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.
Away from the spotlight, Yorkshire-born Tom Bolger has quietly been redpointing and creating sport climbs of the highest calibre and is one of the few British climbers who are solidly climbing into the ninth grade. We caught up with Tom in his home in the global heart of sport climbing, Catalunya, to see what makes him tick.
In this episode, Coach Hörst shares his recent unique training day in the Front Range of Colorado. Eric will contrast the remarkable late-afternoon workout of one of the world's top boulderers, Drew Ruana, with his own route-climbing workout a few hours earlier. You will learn the fundamental differences between training for bouldering and route climbing, particularly concerning the energy systems that power climbing movements. Eric with detail his climbing-specific aerobic system route training session at the G1 gym. Eric will then describe Drew's unique limit boulder training methodology that's elevated him to being one of the very best boulderers on the planet. Learn how Drew puts his home woodie to work for maximum gains! Whether your climbing focus is boulders or routes, this pithy reductionist analysis of training for climbing will engage and enlighten passionate climbers of all ability levels. *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). *** In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
In this exclusive Coach's Q&A from the C4HP Patreon we answer the burning questions that our members offer us each month. Included in those questions is the topic of endurance and Dr. Tyler Nelson has some new thoughts regarding better endurance training for climbing training.The team also dives into other questions regarding assessments and training plan organization.This 45 minute episode is only half of the full 90 minute discussion the coaches have! To listen to the full episode, and join the community of driven climbers and coaches, click the link below!https://www.patreon.com/C4HPSupport the showThank you for listening! Remember to visit camp4humanperformance.com for more information on education, 1-1 coaching, and upcoming events.
The Olympics in Tokyo, some jaw dropping films, and a hardwired desire to be in the great outdoors. These are just some of the reasons credited with boosting the popularity of climbing. Hundreds of indoor bouldering gyms have cropped up in the US since the 1990s, and the sport is spreading across the world. Although still concentrated in North America and Europe, more and more countries are joining the International Federation of Sport Climbing, and the millions of people taking part are attracting the attention of brands and financial backers. We hear from climbing business experts and the UK's most successful competitive climber, Shauna Coxsey, to find out more. (Picture: Shauna Coxey. Credit: Getty Images)Presented and produced by Hannah Bewley
At just 22 years old, Natalia Grossman's incredible track record of success includes winning Gold and Silver at the 2021 International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) Climbing World Championships, 19 podium finishes at World Cup events and, most recently, qualifying for the 2024 Paris Olympics. Today, this rapidly rising superstar sits down with Laura to candidly discuss a number of topics, including her awe-inspiring journey to the pinnacle of her sport, the trials of relocating for climbing, facing online criticism, and the transformative experience of turning pro. Diving into the complexities of competitive athletics, Laura and Natalia illuminate the mental fortitude required to navigate the highs and lows of elite sports. From the weight of expectations to the quest for balance and mental well-being, they dissect the emotional journey with honesty and vulnerability. The episode unfolds with a raw exploration of the toll of external scrutiny and the healing power of open communication within a strong support network while also offering insights on discipline, resilience, and the profound joy of pursuing one's passion. Sharing her experiences here today, Natalia joins Laura in taking listeners on an inspirational journey of self-discovery that embraces the pursuit of excellence with renewed determination and purpose, serving as a beacon of inspiration for all those seeking to conquer their own challenges and achieve greatness in their endeavors. Episode Highlights: Natalia's remarkable journey Balancing training, competitions, and schooling Natalia's shift from gymnastics to climbing Confronting online criticism Finding joy in climbing Natalia's triumphs amid setbacks Looking ahead to the Olympic Games and beyond Managing expectations and public scrutiny Quotes: "I was just training for fun, and I ended up winning. Then I thought, 'Well, now I have to keep doing them!'" "I think one of the biggest things that drew me to the sport was how the community was so close and it's a lot smaller of a sport." "It was just new to me to be going to new countries every month with my team and just getting to compete." "You never forget your first World Cup win. It was just so cool having everyone there." "Don't google your name... I think having people around you that have got your back is a big deal." "Getting it out and talking to people who, you know, love and care about you no matter what, I think that's really important." "I'm a lot more than just a climber.” "You can't control what the other person is doing, especially if it's not like a combat sport. You know what I mean? You're not really like controlling the other person necessarily." "When you go, I guess, pro, and then you have sponsors and you feel like you're supposed to perform to their wants and your income can be based on performance, that can sometimes add another layer of pressure." "What's done is done. We can't go back and change it, right. So now this is a new opportunity." "Just listen to your body and if you feel tired, take that rest day. It's okay to take rest days." "If I'm not having fun, it's not worth it. And if I'm not having fun, I'm not going to perform very well." Links: The Pursuit of Gold Website Top 10 Mental Skills Guide Laura's Social Media: Laura's Instagram Laura's Facebook Connect with Natalia: Natalia's Instagram Natalia's Website
Sean Bailey came on Testpiece and shared his decades of experience from sending and competing at the absolute top of the sport. Sean truly is one of the best climbers in the world right now. Sean recently FA'd the low start to Evilution [“Devilution”] which was a long standing sought after project that clocks in around V16 and is now one of the hardest, proudest lines in the world!How he started climbing and training at a young age and what it was like cutting his teeth on his local crags like Smith Rock.He shares about what WC's were like as an American 7+ years ago when the USA was not competitive at all. Spoiler — it was different and not so glamours! His recent time spent on hard outdoor bouldering and the lessons he learned in sport climbing that help in bouldering.What he thinks the progression in sport climbing will look like.Sean also expands on his recent Instagram post that shared on the struggles pro-climbers have behind the scenes making ends meet. Don't miss this part.Absolutely incredible can't miss podcast by one of the top climbers in our sport!Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Learn how to optimize your resting tactics and skills to stay on the wall longer. Resting on the wall is a skill; we cover the best way to start practicing this. For example, relaxing certain body parts, doing specific shake outs, focusing on specific parts of your body, focusing on breathing etc. We also talk about 1 trick you can do to change your focus on a sport climb. Want a jump start to your training? Sign up here to get instant access to our free Intro To Training Masterclass: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass Want community and coaching support, join our amazing group coaching membership Stronger Together: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Follow us on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/modusathletica/ Check out our website: https://www.modusathletica.com/ Learn with us on YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/mercedespollmeier
Mountain Dew को Social Media पर Follow करें : https://www.instagram.com/mountaindewin Darr Ke Aage Jeet Hai Contest के Terms & Conditions यहाँ पढ़ें : https://tinyurl.com/234dakbu BeerBiceps SkillHouse का Course Join करने के लिए यहाँ CLICK करें : https://bbsh.in/launch-yt Use my referral code OFF50 to get a 50% Discount on a standard membership subscription. Valid till 15th January 2024 Only. BeerBiceps SkillHouse को Social Media पर Follow करे :- YouTube : https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC2-Y36TqZ5MH6N1cWpmsBRQ Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/beerbiceps_skillhouse Website : https://bbsh.in/launch-yt For any other queries EMAIL: support@beerbicepsskillhouse.com In case of any payment-related issues, kindly write to support@tagmango.com अर्जुन वाजपेयी जी को Social Media पे Follow कीजिए :- Instagram : https://www.instagram.com/arjunvajpai/ Facebook : https://www.facebook.com/VajpaiArjun/ X : https://twitter.com/ArjunV_everest LinkedIn : https://in.linkedin.com/in/arjun-vajpai-15024b7b Website : https://arjunvajpai.com/
Jesse Grupper recently punched his ticket to Paris 2024 as part of the men's USA Olympic team!This is on top of his already incredible last few years with multiple gold medal wins at the WC, an incredible flash of Livin' Astro (14c), AND his flash of Pure Imagination (14c) just the day before recording! Jesse is on a tear at comps, outdoors, on lead, on boulders… on everything!Jesse's path to securing his spot in the Olympics was anything but straight forward and he shares how a painful failure at a WC bouldering was crucial to his success. He is a master at using goal setting and optimism as tools to achieve his dreams and he breaks down exactly how he does it.Jesse also tells us about his insane amount of training volume, his tips for success while sport climbing, and his enthusiasm for all things human performance and how he is helping people from every walk of life via soft robotics.We were so grateful to have Jesse on the pod! He is one of the nicest, strongest, and all around best people in the climbing world and we are grateful he is going to be the ones representing the USA at the Olympics.Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE
Glen will look at the Black Caps being action today, this time with the first of two tests against Bangladesh. The Kiwis coach Michael Maguire has resigned and is off to New South Wales as State of Origin coach - so who's in the running to replace him? The Phoenix men's and women's teams are having a ripper start to the season - but where are their supporters? And who will be representing New Zealand in Sport Climbing at the Paris Olympics next year?
Kyra and Allison break down everything you need, and didn't need, to know about what has happened thus far on the Road to Paris 2024. Starting with a recap of the excitement and World Championships, they go into a play by play of what happened and who qualified at every Olympic Qualifying Event so far for Sport Climbing.
In this episode, I detail 7 Training, Performance, and Nutrition Mistakes Common Among Climbers. I'll admit that I've been guilty of a couple of these mistakes in the past…and chances are that you are too. But by recognizing our flawed approaches we are empowered to make course corrections that can improve the effectiveness of our training in the short term and, over the long term, accumulate into a massive change in our ability to crush hard things and break new barriers! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Welcome 0:50 - Introduction to the "7 Mistakes" that can compromise the quality of your training and blunt the performance gains 3:09 - Let's get started...and elevate our training and climbing! 3:55 - Mistake #1: Not having an intelligent plan for each training session. 5:40 - Mistake #2: Making every workout a competition with yourself. 9:40 - Mistake #3: "Cramming” training before a weekend trip, competition, or longer road trip. Learn about the performance nutrition used by Top Pros - Get 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). 14:25 - Mistake #4. Training through injury. Listen to previous injury podcast on the "perfect storm" for getting injured. 22:28 - Mistake #5: Following someone else's training plan (i.e. copy cat training) 25:35 - Mistakes #6: Training your strengths….ignoring your weaknesses. 31:35 - Mistake #7: Training hard and smart, but failing to get adequate sleep and proper nutrition to support your training. 39:02 - Bonus...Mistake #8: Engaging a various acts of self-sabotage. 42:00 - Summary thoughts. Please check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 43:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
Looking to climb on gorgeous streaky sandstone cliffs full of high-angled crimps? Look no further than the Blue Mountains, sport climbing mecca of the land down under, boasting thousands of routes. Legendary Australian climber Lee Cujes spent more than 20 years taking trips to the Blue Mountains before eventually moving there, and now it's been his local crag for nearly a decade. Head over to this episode's blog post to see Lee's picks for Must-Do Routes, Best Crags for a group, guidebook recommendations, and more. Follow Lee on Instagram. Check out Lee's Moonboard Benchmark Buster Training Programs. Support rebolting efforts and trail maintenance in the Blue Mountains. Support the Australian Climbing Association (NSW) The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
In this episode, Kyra and Allison talk lightly about a serious topic: the macho culture of climbing, both indoor and out. They share their experiences growing up in male dominated training spaces and how that shaped them to be the climbers and people they are.
Kyra and Allison are both back from their climbing-packed summers and are excited to share with everyone what they've been up to during their recent podcasting hiatus. First they talk about how they make their livings from being a pro climber and then they recap about their respective trips. Allison spent 5 weeks climbing outside in South Africa and Kyra went to the last World Cups and watched the first few athletes punch their tickets to Paris 2024 at World Champs!
In this Sends and Suffers podcast episode, host Mario Stanley introduces Mr. Alan Watts, a legendary sports climbing community figure. Known as the godfather of sport climbing in America, Watts's love for rock climbing is evident as he shares his perspective on the joy it has brought him. We also discuss where climbing has come from and where it is going in our eyes in the coming years. The episode is sponsored by Organic Climbing, a leading company in the climbing industry, and listeners are encouraged to support the podcast by using the code "sends and suffers" for a 10% discount on Organic Climbing products. Alan Watts website: https://www.wattsrocks.xyz/
What does it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my recommendations (for Ryan Devlin) as he projects his first 5.13a....with the goal of sending it by the end of this year. This is a follow-up to episode #86, in which I presented to Ryan a three-season program for achieving his first 5.13 send. You will hear where Ryan is at with his training--and his project selection!--and I'll help Ryan develop his Autumn season gameplan for working the route...and hopefully clipping the chains by season's end! Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
Adventure boulderer Ruby Petch is one of the driving forces of the development of North Devon. By hiking pads, figuring tides, checking coves and sniffing out nooks Ruby and her small band of pad pirates have carried the proud Devon torch into new areas. Hear her crack here.
The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >> 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >> 21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 - Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.
Imagine going from having no project climb...to sending perhaps your hardest-ever route in just a few short weeks. That's the unusual story I will share with you in this episode. The route is Kaleidoscope, the Red River Gorge king line, which checks in at 5.13c. The climber is....yours truly, 50-something coach Hörst. Despite beginning the Spring 2023 season with a bum knuckle, lack of high-end strength, and no plans to project anything hard...fate put me in the right place at the right time. I was struck with the impulse to jump on the intimidating, overhanging pumpfest known as Kaleidoscope, a route I've gawked at many times but never seriously considered working on. I'll share with you my process of working this route and how the redpoint "just happened" one day. You'll learn many mental, technical, and tactical tips that you can adopt or modify to improve your climbing performance! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Greetings 0:50 - Intro to "surprise send" episode -- a sport climbing performance case study. 2:40 - The backstory... 4:35 - Leveraging my current assets as a veteran climber. What I've got going for me! 6:22 - The importance of recovery--my sleep and nutrition habits. 7:30 - My current knuckle pain...and "climbing around it". 8:10 - Stalling out on last season's project climb... 9:35 - Being "fit" but not "strong". 9:50 - Entering the Kaleidoscope! 13:25 - The process, in detail. 15:25 - Details of the crux beta. (SKIP if you're planning an onsight attempt on the climb!) 17:20 - Summary of Day 1 on Kaleidoscope 18:20 - Details of my day 2 and day 3 work on the project... 20:25 - Day 4 progress. Two one-hang goes! Close, yet miles away... 22:20 - Day 5 -- Easter Sunday attempts on the proj. 24:00 - Send go #1 25:15 - A small, but vital discovery... 26:28 - Send go #2 -- Watch the send video here >> 29:45 - My love of never-ending learning as a climber (and beyond). 31:00 - Question: Why do we climb? 31:40 - Closing comments. 31:50 - PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! Check out podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 32:40 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Hörst Training, LLC.
Josie McKee has been climbing for more than 20 years, racking up speed records, FA's, and a huge wealth of experience and knowledge in that time. She's been up El Cap more than 20 times, even working on the YOSAR team for 3 years. Now based in Lander, she found herself with limestone sport climbing as her primary means to train for a recent Yosemite trip. This is the first of 2 episodes where Kris and Josie discuss how this trip and prepping for it forced Josie to really consider her relationship with climbing – especially in Yosemite – and her identity as a climber. Learn more about Josie's mindset coaching at Mind Athlete. Follow Josie on Instagram. The Power Company Podcast is brought to you by Power Company Climbing and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective. You can help us keep episodes sponsor-free by becoming a Patron for as little as $3 a month. Find full episode transcripts and more at our website.
What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion. Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.