The Cutting Edge

Three climbers from the U.S. spent nearly two months last summer in Baffin Island's Auyuittuq National Park, and they came away with three long new routes climbed in remarkable style. The trio went ultra-light (by Baffin standards) and packed only a double set of cams, one large cam, a fistful of hooks, 30 beak pitons, and a few bolts to climb more than 10,000 vertical feet of granite. In this episode, Jim Aikman talks with ace wall climbers Brandon Adams, Miles Fullman, and Sam Stuckey to learn all about their wilderness adventures, the meaning of modern aid, and what it's like to achieve a flow state while beaking and hooking.

In September, three young American climbers—August Franzen, Dane Steadman, and Cody Winckler—completed the first ascent of Yashkuk Sar I in northwest Pakistan. The 2,000-meter north pillar took five days to climb and descend, with challenges including precarious bivouacs, avalanches that forced them to find a new route in the middle of the climb, and crux mixed climbing at over 6,200 meters. For this episode, host Jim Aikman conducted an extensive interview with Wyoming climber Dane Steadman about this impressive ascent. Plus, alpinists Kelly Cordes and Graham Zimmerman, along with AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald, offer their perspectives on the unique challenges and attractions of climbing in the Karakoram.

Babsi Zangerl's flash ascent of Free Rider on El Capitan in November—the first flash of any El Cap big-wall free route—was a highlight of the year in climbing. In this interview, the 36-year-old Austrian climber describes her preparation, fears, and the intense effort of her no-falls ascent on the 5.13a wall route. Plus, Alex Honnold and Josh Wharton share their personal perspectives on Free Rider. AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald adds context on Babsi's historic ascent. And you'll hear Jamie Logan describe free climbing on this line way back in 1972. Photo of Babsi Zangerl high on El Cap by Miya Tsudome for Highpoint Productions.

Born and raised in the heart of the Pyrenees, Kilian Jornet is the GOAT of mountain running and skimo, and he's an accomplished climber too. This past summer, Jornet used his extraordinary fitness and deep reservoir of mountain skills and savvy to tackle one of the greatest challenges of the Alps: a traverse of all 82 of the range's 4,000-meter peaks, solely by foot and bike. The fastest previous time for this link-up was 60 days. Jornet did it in 19. Cutting Edge host Jim Aikman interviewed Kilian Jornet about his “Alpine Connections” project—the preparation, the physiological and psychological challenges, and the real dangers of covering hundreds of kilometers of serious alpine terrain at speed, often alone. For context on the history of grand Alpine enchainments and commentary on Jornet's latest feat, Jim spoke with Colin Haley, elite climber and Chamonix resident; Buzz Burrell, one of the originators of the Fastest Known Time (FKT) movement; and Dougald MacDonald, editor of the American Alpine Journal. Is it mountaineering? Is it running? Whatever you think of a feat like this, it's undeniably at the cutting edge.

Alaska's Great Gorge of the Ruth Glacier has captured the attention of alpinists from around the world for generations. Mt. Dickey and the other giant peaks lining the gorge have also been fertile venues for the evolution of the sport. So it was for Tom Livingstone and Gašper Pintar in the spring of 2024, when they set out for a new line up Dickey's 5,000-foot south face. To navigate the challenges of this iconic area, they combined rock, snow, and ice techniques along with intricate route-finding and their signature British and Slovenian resilience. In this episode, Tom tells the story of their new route, and we also hear about the Ruth Glacier's place in climbing history from AAJ Editor Dougald MacDonald and veteran alpinist Freddie Wilkinson. Plus, climber and author David Roberts talks about Dickey's first wall route (climbed 50 years ago!) in audio from the AAC archive.

For our final episode of the 2023 season, we're heading to Kishtwar in northern India, an area of very dramatic granite peaks, most of which have only been climbed by one or two routes. One of these mountains is White Sapphire, a peak of 6,040 meters or just under 20,000 feet, that had only been climbed twice. Pete Takeda, the interviewer for this episode, had shared photos of an unclimbed big wall on White Sapphire with a young friend named Christian Black. In time, Christian recruited his friends Hayden Wyatt and Vitaliy Musiyenko as partners. They won a grant from the American Alpine Club, and in September they all headed to India. Two of the three climbers had never been to the Himalaya, and this interview captures their wide-eyed enthusiasm, as well as their ability to go with the flow—a critical element for success in the Greater Ranges. And success they had, with a challenging new route up White Sapphire from the north: Brilliant Blue (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+). The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com), with additional support from Blue Ice and Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

On October 12, climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau summited 7,710-meter Jannu, or Khumbakarna, by a new route up the north face, climbed in alpine style. Jannu's main north face had only been climbed once, in 2004, by a 12-man Russian team that spent nearly two months on the face and fixed over 10,000 feet of rope. The American trio carried a single lead rope and took only a modest rack and no bolt kit. Their route, Round Trip Ticket, was climbed and descended in one week. Years of preparation and innovation went into this remarkable ascent, and in this episode of the Cutting Edge, we're fortunate to hear all three climbers telling the story. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In late September, Connor Herson and Fan Yang free climbed Hairline on the east face of Mt. Whitney, the highest peak in the Lower 48. Hairline is a very steep, 13-pitch route originally climbed in 1987. The 55-meter crux pitch went at 5.13+ or 8b, at over 13,000 feet in elevation. The two other hard pitches go at 5.12 and 5.13-. Connor climbed 5.14c/8c+ at age 14 and became famous at 15 for free climbing the Nose of El Cap. He's now 20 and a student at Stanford University. At age 36, Fan is also a 5.14 climber, and he's an M.D., an engineer, and a researcher in the field of artificial intelligence applied to medicine. He first tried Hairline in 2019 (and freed the crux pitch), but COVID and then difficulty finding partners kept him off the route for several years. Connor and Fan had never really climbed together when they teamed up for Hairline, but their partnership clicked. After a couple of days of preparation on the route, they sent all the key pitches in one day with no falls. From their high point, they downclimbed the East Face Route to camp, then scrambled back up the next morning to finish the easy final pitches to the summit of Mt. Whitney. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy interviewed the two about their climb.

This episode is all about Tirich Mir in Pakistan's High Hindu Kush. This past summer, two Japanese climbers completed an ascent of the secretive north face of this 7,708-meter mountain—an isolated wall that probably had never been attempted before. For the last decade, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima have formed one of the most successful partnerships in the world for lightweight, alpine-style new routes on high 7,000-meter peaks. Kazuya had dreamed of climbing Tirich Mir for more than 20 years, and the route they pieced together was a creative and committing solution to a very complex mountaineering problem. We'll also hear about their next goal: an audacious attempt on an alpine-style ascent of K2's west face. To introduce Tirich Mir and its long history, we spoke with AAJ senior editor Lindsay Griffin, an expert in the climbing history of the Greater Ranges. Among other things, we learn why a member of the first ascent party carried a huge rock to the summit! The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is hosted and produced by AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald and is published by the American Alpine Club.

Sarah McNair-Landry and Erik Boomer only started climbing a few years ago, and their technical level maxes out around 5.11. Yet their extended, multi-sport expeditions all over Baffin Island are without a doubt cutting edge. This year, they made three separate trips: one for climbing, skiing, and kiting on Baffin Island's remote east coast; one to explore a new zone of beautiful walls near Baffin's southern tip; and a third to fulfill the dream that got them into climbing in the first place: climbing the mighty peak of Mt. Asgard. (They climbed it twice.) Chris Kalman spoke with Sarah and Erik about this year's adventures and about their unique and enviable role in the modern exploration of Baffin Island. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Blue Ice and Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is hosted and produced by Dougald MacDonald, editor of the American Alpine Journal, and is published by the American Alpine Club.

This summer, Matt Segal recruited his old friend Jesse Huey and an alpine newbie, Jordan Cannon, for an attempt on Trango Tower in Pakistan. And not just by any route: Segal dreamed of free climbing the unrepeated Cowboy Direct, first climbed way back in 1995. The El Cap–size wall route goes at 5.13a and summits at over 20,000 feet. The trio made a powerful combo: Matt, a solid 5.14 climber; Jesse, an all-around master; and Jordan, a big-wall free climbing ace. In this interview, led by Chris Kalman, the three climbers describe their 15-day final push on the route, the superb partnership they formed, and how they overcame obstacles of poor weather, lack of food, and surprisingly difficult alpine climbing near the summit to succeed with the second ascent of this legendary climb. The Cutting Edge podcast is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com), with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In July 2023, four climbers from New England—Will Carey, Taki Miyamoto, Ray Rice, and Mark Richey—completed what just might be the longest pure rock climb in Africa. Their 800-meter route climbs straight up the middle of the upper face of Chambe, a huge granite monolith in Malawi. For this episode, AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy (who climbed on Chambe himself for several weeks in July 2022) spoke with Will and Mark about their adventures. Although both climbers have done many new routes (Mark is a two-time Piolets d'Or winner for his first ascents in the Karakoram), ground-up bolting a huge, exotic rock face was an entirely new experience. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Often described as one of the most beautiful mountains in North America, Mt. Huntington has been drawing top alpinists to the Alaska Range ever since the peak's first ascent in 1964, led by the great French climber Lionel Terray. In April 2023, Dane Steadman (USA), Zac Colbran and Grant Stewart (both from Canada) flew to the Tokositna Glacier for their own adventures. The three of them climbed a cool new route up the west face of Huntington, and two of them then made a second foray onto the west face, repeating a rarely climbed variation to the Harvard Route and freeing the classic Nose pitch. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy interviewed all three climbers to get their story. The Cutting Edge podcast is produced by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

The Cutting Edge returns for season five with Jackson Marvell, a 27-year-old alpinist from Utah who just completed his second new route up the mile-high east face of Mt. Dickey in Alaska's Ruth Gorge. Along with Matt Cornell and Alan Rousseau, Jackson climbed the AI6 M6 X route, Aim for the Bushes, over three days in late March. The AAJ's Michael Levy spoke with Jackson to get all the details.

Tiphaine Duperier and Boris Langenstein from France have made the first ski descents in many parts of Asia. But until 2022, Tiphaine had never been to North America. In May, she flew to Alaska with Boris to pursue a crazy dream: a ski descent of the Cassin Ridge on Denali. The two quickly realized this wouldn't be possible (at least this year), but an alternate vision soon appeared: an uncharted ski line down the upper southwest face of Denali. On May 31, the two climbed to the summit and started down just to skier's right of the upper Cassin. After descending about 1,000 meters, they made a long, terrifying traverse to join the West Rib route and continued down all the way to the Northeast Fork of the Kahiltna Glacier. The total descent was more than 3,800 meters. For this episode of the Cutting Edge, Tiphaine spoke with guest interviewer Brody Leven, a professional ski mountaineer himself, about the planning and execution of this bold descent.

Have you ever wondered how ordinary climbers manage to put together an expedition to the Himalaya? Our guests Ethan Berman and Maarten Van Haeren just made the first ascent of the northeast face of Khang Karpo (6,646 meters) in Nepal during their very first expedition to the mountains of Asia. In this episode, AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald interviews the pair about their beautiful new route, and then asks them to go into detail on the ins and outs of planning an expedition. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

With only about a dozen ascents in nearly four decades, the Slovak Direct route on Denali's south face is one of North America's premier climbs. Sixteen years after the first ascent, Scott Backes, Steve House, and Mark Twight famously upped the ante by climbing the route in single-push style: bringing no tent or sleeping bags and climbing nearly continuously for 60 hours. Twenty-two years later, in the spring of 2022, the Slovak saw another round of single-push ascents, blazing up the route in less than 24 hours. For this episode, AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald spoke with climbers from all three of these ascents: Steve House, Matt Cornell, and Rob Smith. They talked about the progression in climbing gear and tactics that allowed such amazingly fast climbs, but also about universal aspects of challenges like this that have nothing to do with speed records. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com), with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In mid-September, American Colin Haley, 38, added another impressive solo ascent to his long list of ground-breaking alpine climbs (both roped and unroped). During an impromptu late-winter trip to Patagonia, in a round-trip of around 21 hours, Haley climbed the Supercanaleta route on Chaltén (Fitz Roy), the first time this 1,600-meter climb has been soloed in winter. And by solo, we really mean alone: Haley never saw another climber during his five trips into the high mountains. In this episode, Michael Levy quizzes Haley not only about the physical aspects of such a difficult, lonely climb, but also the psychological ups and downs of soloing in winter. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Lowa Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In July, German climber Fabian Buhl and Will Sim from the U.K. reached the summit of a 5,800-meter rock and ice tower in Pakistan. Their first ascent wasn't particularly big or difficult. What made the climb extraordinary was their approach: After a leisurely breakfast in Karimibad, the nearest big town, they flew paragliders to the glacier at the foot of the tower, gaining about 2,000 meters in elevation. After climbing the peak early the next day, they rappelled back to their bivouac and flew back down to the valley. They were back in town for dinner. For this episode, AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy spoke with Fabi and Will about the new possibilities combining paragliding and alpinism—and the hazards of this new game. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

5.13 M7 WI6. These are the kinds of numbers that catch climbers' attention, especially when you're talking about climbing a 6,000-meter peak in Peru. But numbers don't come close to capturing all the challenges of a route like the one done by our guests Vince Anderson and Josh Wharton in July. In this episode, the Colorado-based climbers explain why it took four trips to Peru to complete their all-free, alpine-style line up Jirishanca. And why no one else had reached the summit of Jirishanca via the southeast face in nearly 20 years. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and Gnarly Nutrition. Michael Levy conducted the interview for this episode, and Sierra McGivney provided editing support. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Pumari Chhish East, a nearly 7,000-meter peak in the Karakoram, had been the goal of at least six expeditions over the last 15 years. In late June, the French-American trio of Christophe Ogier, Jérôme Sullivan, and Victor Saucède finally pulled it off. In the rapidly warming Karakoram, an effective strategy was key. In this episode, AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald speaks with Ogier and Sullivan about why they chose to approach the mountain a month earlier than other teams, why they avoided the peak's easiest lines, and how climate change is transforming alpinism around the world. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Lowa Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In 1976, Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker from Great Britain climbed the west face of Changabang (6,880m) in India, the most technical climb at this altitude ever done at the time. In May of this year, 46 years later, the team of Dan Joll, Kim Ladiges, and Matt Scholes, from New Zealand and Australia, finally made the second ascent. In this episode, we first speak with eminent climbing historian and AAJ senior editor Lindsay Griffin about the impact of the 1976 ascent, and then with Joll and Scholes about their climb this spring. The trio spent nine days on the bitterly cold mountain, and even though equipment and techniques have advanced immeasurably in the past half century, they still found plenty of challenge on this legendary route. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In late March, Clint Helander and Andres Marin climbed the direct east face of Golgotha in Alaska's Revelation Mountains. The new route, Shaft of the Abyss (4,000', VI AI5 R M5 A0 90°), had been the goal of four expeditions by the two men, starting in 2016, and was the culmination of Helander's remarkable career in the Revelations, where he has completed 12 expeditions and numerous first ascents. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy spoke with Helander and Marin about the long history of the route, the life-threatening avalanche that cut short their first attempt, and the mysterious case of the missing tent. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, Lowa Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

On November 6, three Ukrainian climbers—Nikita Balabanov, Mikhail “Misha” Fomin, and Viacheslav "Slava" Polezhaiko—summited Annapurna III by the southeast ridge. This towering ridge line, following a knife-edge of loose snow and even looser rock to a 7,555-meter summit, had been a coveted goal of elite Himalayan climbers for 40 years. The three men spent 18 days on their extremely complex alpine-style ascent and descent. AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy spoke with Balabanov and Fomin just one week after their return to Ukraine to get the complete story of this remarkable climb. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Archil Badriashvili has completed a number of wild new routes in Nepal in recent years, and this fall, the 31-year-old from Georgia and regular partners Giorgi Tepnadze and Baqar Gelashvili mounted an impressive expedition to the Hindu Kush in far northwestern Pakistan. After warming up with a new route to a 6,800-meter peak, the trio made the first ascent of the highest unclimbed mountain in the area: 7,303-meter Saraghrar Northwest. They spent five days climbing a granite headwall at over 6,500 meters, followed by a tenuous traverse to the summit. The full climb took nine days round-trip. In this episode, Archil speaks with AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald about growing up and training in the "Little Himalaya" of the Caucasus mountains, the difficult climb of Saraghrar Northwest, and the motivating power of Georgian folk songs on difficult ascents. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Gnarly Nutrition, LOWA Boots, and Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

This year, alpinist Chantel Astorga realized a long-held dream: a solo ascent of the classic Cassin Ridge on Denali, climbing 8,000 vertical feet from the bergschrund to the summit in 14 hours and 39 minutes. An avalanche forecaster based in the Sawtooth Mountains of Idaho, Chantel has been guiding and climbing on Denali for well over a decade. As you'll hear in Episode 44 of the Cutting Edge,, Chantel applied all of her experience on Denali to plan and execute the first female solo of the Cassin, including a complex approach down Denali's Seattle Ramp to reach the base. (Possibly the first time this route has been skied.) She then carried her skis up and over, descending the upper West Buttress to return to her high camp. Speaking with the AAJ's Lauren Miller, Chantel describes her tactics and decision-making for the Cassin Ridge in great depth. It's a peek inside the mind of a Denali master. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Vitaliy Musiyenko fell in love with California's High Sierra in his early 20s. A decade later, at age 34, he is among the most prolific and accomplished explorers of the Range of Light, having climbed well over 100 long new routes. For much of this time, he has dreamed of putting all this experience to the test on a massive traverse of the Sierra Crest: by far the biggest technical traverse ever attempted in a range celebrated for its challenging linkups. Vitaliy made his first attempt on what he came to call the Goliath in 2016, doing the complete Evolution Crest, from Piute Pass to Bishop Pass. But something told him if he kept going that time, he might never make it out alive. His ultimate goal would add an extended version of the Palisade Traverse, including some sections that had never been done. In early August of this year, with a good forecast and eight days of food, he started out again. For episode 43 of the Cutting Edge, Lauren Miller, herself a longtime Sierra climber, spoke with Vitaliy about his extensive preparation and the physical and mental challenges of this Goliath traverse. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Our guest this episode is the Czech climber Marek Holeček, among the most successful alpine climbers of the past two decades. Holeček has climbed new routes all over the world, from Kyrgyzstan to Patagonia, Antarctica to Afghanistan. Two of his biggest successes came in the past five years, when he was already in his 40s: new routes on Gasherbrum I in Pakistan and Chamlang in Nepal, both of which were honored with Piolets d'Or. His new route up 7,162-meter Baruntse in Nepal, climbed in late May with Radoslav (Radek) Groh, is of similar stature. Holeček and Groh climbed the west face of Baruntse, 10 kilometers west of Makalu, in four days. Near the top, a fierce storm arrived a day and a half earlier than expected, and they had to fight to the summit, where they were pinned down for four nights. Finally, on their ninth day out from base camp, the storm let up enough for them to descend about 1,000 meters. After one more night, strung out and threatened by avalanche danger, and with no one left in their tiny base camp to help them out, they were picked up by a helicopter and flown off the lower mountain. Holeček said the route was the hardest he'd climbed yet, out of more than 40 expeditions. AAJ editor in chief Dougald MacDonald interviewed Holecek in late July. Since most of Holeček's interviews and videos are in Czech, this is a rare opportunity for English speakers to hear directly from one of the great alpinists of our time. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (Hilleberg.com), with additional support from Polartec, Gnarly Nutrition, and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Ines Papert from Germany accomplished many of her greatest climbs while raising a small child. In this special episode, Sarah Hart interviews Ines about the challenges of combining motherhood with intense ambition as a climber, about forging new paths for women, and about climbing with your romantic partner. Ines and her partner (now husband), Luka Lindic from Slovenia, just finished a trip to Alaska, where they climbed a hard new route on Mt. Huntington. In part two of this episode, Lauren Miller speaks with Ines about the Alaska trip and their beautiful new route. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional Support from Gnarly Nutrition, LOWA Boots, and Polaretc. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In late April, on their third trip to Alaska's remote and forbidding Mt. Neacola, Ryan Driscoll, Justin Guarino, and Nick Aiello-Popeo made the first complete ascent of the north face (a.k.a. the Medusa Face). The New Hampshire–based trio followed the line of a visionary 1995 attempt by Topher Donahue and Kennan Harvey until high on the wall, then added another full day of sustained climbing to top out, before descending the unknown east face. And this was only AFTER they had been avalanched out of their base camp earlier in the same month. It's a wild, wild story, and Ryan and Justin tell it in-depth, with Chris Kalman asking the questions. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

For more than a decade, Maryna Kopteva has been one of the world's most accomplished climbers in a demanding style: big-wall first ascents on remote, high, and cold mountains. The Ukrainian woman has done new routes on Great Trango Tower in Pakistan, Tengkangpoche in Nepal, and the Golden Sentinel in India, among others. And what makes these climbs even more special is that they all were done with very small teams of women. For this reason, we interviewed Maryna for our special series called “In Her Own Words: Conversations with Female Alpinists.” This interview, led by Canadian climber Sarah Hart, not only gives insight into Maryna's career, it also gives us a view into the climbing culture of Ukraine and other former Soviet states, where team cohesiveness and working together are often valued more than individual accomplishments. To a large degree, this approach helps explain why Maryna and her small teams of Russian and Ukrainian women have had such impressive success on high mountain walls. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Lowa Boots, Polartec, and new sponsor Gnarly Nutrition. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Our guest in episode 38 is the globe-trotting adventurer Sean Villanueva O'Driscoll, who in February pulled off a mind-blowing feat of climbing: the first ever south to north traverse of the full Fitz Roy massif in Patagonia. This is the same spiky ridgeline that Alex Honnold and Tommy Caldwell traversed in 2014, but Sean did it in the opposite direction and he did all alone. And even though, as you'll hear, he definitely wasn't in any hurry, he took only two days longer than Tommy and Alex, despite carrying 10 days of food and self-belaying most of the climbing. The traverse entailed more than 4,000 meters of vertical gain, and except for the rappels, he did it all free, with pitches up to 6c (5.11). Chris Kalman interviewed Sean in El Chaltén, where he has been living for the past year. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec and Lowa Boots. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold need no introduction. Our show with them about the speed record on the Nose of El Cap (Episode 8) was by far the most popular we've ever done. Now they're back to chat with Chris Kalman about the CDUL Traverse: the Continental Divide Ultimate Linkup in Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado. The two spent 36 hours in July doing 11 of the Park's most classic climbing routes and summiting 17 peaks. This traverse took place last summer, but the interview is brand new, and we also asked Tommy and Alex to reflect on their experiences climbing in the time of COVID, traveling vs. staying home, the opportunities for great adventures right in your own backyard, and what they're working on now. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from new sponsors Lowa and Polartec. This episode was also sponsored by Coros Vertix. The Cutting Edge podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo by Adam Stack.

Lynn Hill needs no introduction to the Cutting Edge audience: She is arguably the most ground-breaking female rock climber and big-wall free climber in the history of the sport. We asked Lynn to come onto the show not to talk about her climbs, however, but about her experiences as a woman climber, both at her peak as a professional (she free climbed the Nose of El Capitan in a day in 1994) and today. About the unconscious bias she and other women have faced in climbing, and about the challenges that remain. This episode kicks off a special series of the Cutting Edge called "In Her Own Words: Conversations With Female Alpinists." These interviews were conducted by Canadian climber Sarah Hart, who wrote a major article in AAJ 2020 about the state of the art of women's alpinism and a new system for increasing coverage of high-level women's climbs in the pages of the AAJ. As part of this project, Sarah interviewed several women about the unique challenges they have faced as leading female climbers. More episodes in this series will appear in the coming months. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Polartec. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo of Lynn Hill by Bob Carmichael.

Priti and Jeff Wright are wrapping up the kind of year that most climbers only dream about. The young tech engineers took a sabbatical from work to experience "A Year in the Life of Colin Haley," inspired by the world-roaming alpinist who is one of their mentors. The result was more they could have imagined, despite all the obstacles of Covid-19: a summit of Cerro Torre, the "Six Classic North Faces of the Alps," and the first ascent of a 7,000-meter peak in the Karakoram. It's van life on steroids! AAJ contributor Lauren DeLaunay got all the details. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (Hilleberg.com). This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Yuh-hai-has-kun (Mt. Robson) is one of North America's greatest peaks, despite rising to less than 4,000 meters or 13,000 feet. In early October, Ethan Berman (U.S.) and Uisdean Hawthorn (Scotland) completed a rare new route to the summit, climbing a 2,000-meter line up the Emperor Face, left of the classic Infinite Patience. In this episode, we speak with both men about their profound experience on the mountain, and we also chat with Barry Blanchard, who put up Infinite Patience in 2002 with Eric Dumerac and Philippe Pellet, after many attempts. It's a Robson double-header! The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Chris Weidner and Bruce Miller worked four years on a new free climb up the Diamond, the northeast face of Longs Peak in Colorado. The Gambler's Fallacy (5.13b/8a) is one of the hardest routes up this cold granite wall, which rises to over 14,000 feet or 4,300 meters. In this episode, Chris talks about the process and partnership that led to this beautiful new free climb. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (Hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo courtesy of Jon Glassberg of Louder Than 11.

Nico Favresse from Belgium is well-known as a prolific explorer of new routes and long free ascents around the world: Baffin Island, China, Patagonia, Greenland, and more. But this summer, with COVID limiting travel and the impacts of climate chanage weighing on his mind, he partnered with Sébastien Berthe, also from Belgium, for a closer-to-home adventure. The two men biked through Austria, Germany, and Switzerland to link the three classic long routes of the Alpine Trilogy, and they freed each of these testpieces of the 1990s in one-day ascents, the first time this has ever been done. For Episode 32 of the Cutting Edge, Chris Kalman spoke with Nico about the Trilogy and about the future of lower-impact climbing adventures. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (Hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo by Damien Largeron.

In early July, Brandon Adams and Roger Putnam set a new speed record for climbing Mescalito, the classic El Cap aid route. In fact, they smashed the previous mark (which had stood for more than two decades) by nearly 10 hours. But to hear them tell it, the day was all about laughs and tunes. In Episode 31 of the Cutting Edge, AAJ correspondent and YOSAR team member Lauren DeLaunay gets their thoughts on the joys of speed climbing, modern aid gear, risk, and a stellar partnership. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Jacob Cook and Bronwyn Hodgins, partners in both climbing and marriage, joined two other Canadians last summer in Baffin Island's Weasel River Valley. This remote Arctic region has seen big-wall ascents since the 1970s, but it is very far from climbed out, as the pair explains in Episode 30 of the Cutting Edge. This team also was the first ever to explore the possibilities for combining climbing and packrafting in this valley, with interesting and sometimes hilarious results. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (Hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Italian climber Matteo Della Bordella returns to the Cutting Edge to talk about the first ascent of the west face of Bhagirathi IV. This is a very steep 800-meter wall, entirely above 5,000 meters, in northern India. After several earlier attempts, both in 2015 and in 2019, Matteo and two friends climbed the wall in a bold, lightweight style, reaching the summit in one long day. Remarkably, they did it mostly free, with sustained 5.11 rock climbing. Chris Kalman spoke with Matteo about the climb in mid-May. The Cutting Edge podcast is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker and produced by the American Alpine Club.

The ice climbs of Helmcken Falls in central British Columbia are like no other climbs on Earth. Since 2010, our guest Tim Emmett has been developing "spray ice" climbs at Helmcken, connecting blobs of ice blown onto an enormous overhang by one of North America's most powerful waterfalls. In February, he and Klem Premrl completed their hardest climb yet: Mission to Mars, with the out-of-this-world grade of WI 13. What does that even mean? Find out in episode 28 of the Cutting Edge, as AAJ contributing editor Whitney Clark speaks with Tim about the new route, the history of the area, and this weird and frightening climbing style. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com) and is produced by the American Alpine Club. Photo by Jon Glassberg / Louder Than Eleven

Our guest for this episode is Leo Houlding, one of the great expedition leaders of our time. Leo's goal for this year was a new free route on Roraima, a legendary mountain in South America that is steeped in British climbing lore. In 1973, a team of four Brits—Mo Anthoine, Joe Brown, Hamish MacInnes, and Don Whillans—made the first ascent of the super-isolated and dramatic north prow of Roraima. Just getting to the mountain involves a lengthy jungle trek and thousands of feet of climbing through a "slime forest." AAJ editor Chris Kalman spoke with Leo about the soggy approach, the wild 14-pitch climb they found, and helping two local Amerindians, Edward James and Troy Henry, become the first Guyanese to climb their country's most spectacular cliff. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This show is produced by the American Alpine Club.

The north pillar of 6,487-meter Tengkangpoche in Nepal is one of the great unclimbed prizes of the Himalaya. In October, Quentin Roberts from Canada and Juho Knuuttila from Finland spent six days on the wall, reaching a new high point. A blank slab and the climbers' chosen style (no bolts, no portaledge) ended their attempt just a few pitches from easier ground. In this episode, Whitney Clark interviews Quentin Roberts about the climb, the style, and what he plans to do differently when he returns to Tengkangpoche in 2020. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support for this episode from Black Diamond Equipment. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In this episode we travel to the Pamir Alai mountains of Kyrgyzstan for a special two-part show. The first part features a conversation with Nik Berry and Eric Bissell, who went to Kyrgyzstan in August with Dave Allfrey and Brent Barghahn to attempt the first free ascent of a huge wall in the Ak-Su valley: the northwest face of Pik Slesova. Their route eventually went free at 5.13a, with eight pitches of 5.12 or harder. The line the Americans chose was partly along an old Russian climb (the Moroz Route), which previously had been followed in part by another American team, Conrad Anker and Alex Lowe, way back in 1995. In the second part of this episode, we chat with Anker about his climb, and how he feels about modernizing older routes for free climbing. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support for this episode from Black Diamond Equipment. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Koyo Zom in northern Pakistan is nearly 7,000 meters tall, and its stunning north face looks like a massive medieval fortress. No one had climbed or even attempted Koyo Zom for more than 40 years. In September, Tom Livingstone and four British friends set out to change that. Dividing into two teams, they attempted two lines on Koyo Zom. Tom and his climbing partner, Ally Swinton, succeeded on a very difficult route they called the Great Game (1,500m, ED+). After descending most of the mountain, on the way back to base camp, they had a serious accident, which ended with a helicopter rescue. In Episode 24 of the Cutting Edge, Tom Livingstone talks with the AAJ's Chris Kalman about the climb, the rescue, and how the “asterisk” on the climb affects his feelings about it. The Cutting Edge is sponsored by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com). This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Vitaliy Musiyenko is the most prolific climber of long new routes in the Sierra in modern history. This summer was no exception, including one line that recently was called "The Rostrum of Sequoia." In this interview with AAJ contributing editor Whitney Clark, Vitaliy describes how he transformed from an overweight and apathetic high schooler to the master of modern Sierra climbing, plus the joys of 18-mile approaches, his planned guidebook to the Range of Light, and how every age of climbing can be a "golden age." The Cutting Edge is sponsored by Hilleberg the Tentmaker. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

At sunset on August 5, 2019, Steve Swenson, Graham Zimmerman, Chris Wright, and Mark Richey stood on top of Link Sar, a 7,041-meter peak in Pakistan that had resisted numerous attempts dating back to 1979. The successful climb of the southeast face was the culmination of two months of effort by a powerful team of American climbers: two veterans in their 60s, and two of the leading alpinists of today's younger generation. Our guests for this episode are Steve Swenson, author of the recent book “Karakoram,” about 40 years of climbing in Pakistan, and Graham Zimmerman, the youngest member of the expedition. The two describe this very complex mountain, where just identifying a reasonable line took multiple years of attempts, and their nine-day round trip from base camp, which drew on the deepest reservoirs of every member's strengths. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Thirty-one-year old Barbara "Babsi" Zangerl is one of the world's most accomplished all-around rock climbers. She started climbing at age 14, and early on she focused on bouldering. After herniating a disk in her back in 2009, she switched to roped climbing and rapidly expanded her horizons. She was the first woman to complete the so-called Alpine Trilogy of long, often run-out 5.14 testpieces in Europe. And in June she completed her fourth El Cap free climb. Only Hazel Findlay from Great Britain has done as many. Babsi has done the first female free ascents of Zodiac and El Niño, both 5.13+, and in December 2017 she and her partner Jacopo Larcher did the second ever ascent of Magic Mushroom, said to be El Cap's second most difficult free route. In June this year, she free climbed PreMuir with Jacopo. This wasn't Babsi's most difficult El Cap free route, but it exemplified the style she prefers: ground-up ascents of extremely difficult big walls. Chris Kalman caught up with Babsi at her home in Austria, shortly after she returned from a climbing trip to South Africa. They debriefed the PreMuir climb, including the many double dynos the 5-foot-3-inch climber required to free the route, and spoke about her future ambitions on the world's great walls. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support for this episode from Black Diamond Equipment. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In this episode we're venturing into the world of FKTs: the Fastest Known Times for mountain ascents, alpine traverses, and similar feats. Our guest is Karl Egloff, a mountain guide who was virtually unknown outside his home in Ecuador until 2014, when he set the fastest known time for running up and down Kilimanjaro in Africa. The previous record was held by some guy named Kilian Jornet. Since then Egloff has broken two more records set by the famed Spanish mountain runner, first on Aconcagua and then, just last month, on Denali. This was Egloff's second attempt on Denali, and he did it in just an eight-day visit to the mountain. On June 20, supported by his friend Nicolás Miranda, he raced up the West Buttress Route from Kahiltna base to the summit in 7 hours and 40 minutes, more than two hours faster than Jornet. Then he turned around and ran back, beating Jornet's round trip by a few minutes, even though the Spaniard skied most of the way down. In this very specialized side of mountaineering, Karl Egloff is on another level. The AAJ's Chris Kalman caught up with him at his home in Quito. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support for this episode from Black Diamond Equipment. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In early April 2019, Luka Lindič and Ines Papert teamed up with Brette Harrington to climb a major new route in the Canadian Rockies: the complete east face of Mt. Fay. Chris Kalman spoke with them about this wild new line, along with the paradoxical allure of these complex and dangerous mountains. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support for this episode from Black Diamond Equipment. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.