Podcasts about American Alpine Club

Matt Samet is the former editor-in-chief of Climbing Magazine, a writer and author, and a sport-climbing pioneer. We talked about his decade-plus battle with benzo addiction, his advice for people who experience anxiety or depression, what Rifle was like in the early ‘90s, how Chris Sharma broke the paradigm, embracing training to send his hardest routes, his new role with the American Alpine Club, and the inaugural American Climbing Journal coming later this year. You can learn more at americanalpineclub.org Free Masterclass (Unlock Your Full Potential in Climbing)

Ep 125 - The Way Out: A True Story of Survival in the Heart of the Rockies - Devon O'Neil In January 2017, three families set out on a backcountry ski trip to Uncle Bud's Cabin in the heart of the Rockies outside of Salida, Colorado. What was meant to be a fun getaway turned into a desperate search when two members of the party didn't return from a quick ski run. In this episode, we'll dive into the remarkable story told in Devin O'Neil's book, "The Way Out," revealing not only the thrilling events but also the profound effects on the families and community involved. O'Neil, a seasoned journalist, captures the essence of resilience and courage that emerged in the face of tragedy. We explore what happened, the lessons learned, and why this story resonates deeply with outdoor enthusiasts and communities alike. Check out this bonus article written by Devon O'Neil about his own personal avalanche experience – https://www.outsideonline.com/outdoor-adventure/exploration-survival/avalanche-trigger-mt-baldy/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and sponsored by Rocky Talkie and onX Backcountry. → 60% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, code valid through summer - SHARPEND60 → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% online Responder Alliance trainings, including the Responder HUB - SHARPEND → 10% off Wallpoppe - SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments - SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine - SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend26

In this one, I talk to Ashley Saupe. She's the host of the Sharp End Podcast, a show built around firsthand accounts of accidents, near misses, survival, and the complicated psychology of risk in the outdoors. But before she started the podcast, she was studying the mistakes of others, reading Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication by the American Alpine Club that documents climbing incidents, what went wrong, and the lessons people take away from them. She became fascinated not by triumphs or summit photos, but by the thin line between routine and disaster—the small decisions, overlooked details, and human tendencies that can shift a situation toward danger. Eventually, she began to think: someone should turn these stories into a podcast. That idea became The Sharp End. For more than eleven years, she's been listening to people recount moments when things fell apart, and in the process her own relationship to climbing, risk, and the outdoors has changed. In her twenties and early thirties, she was more concerned with reaching the summit, but now, as she nears 40, she's learned to enjoy the journey. These days, success means facilitating wilderness experiences for other people and getting down safely. She's less interested in collecting accomplishments than she is in what the outdoors reveal about fear, ego, vulnerability, and identity. Now, she often spends time alone in the backcountry, where the silence and isolation force her to confront these things directly. She says time slows down in the mountains, that survival depends on paying attention: listening to your body, the weather, your partner, the rock in front of you. That way of moving through the outdoors has also shaped the way she thinks about Alaska, how it's scale and mythology often distorts people's judgment and can lead to a dangerous kind of confidence. Many people refer to this as “The Alaska Factor.”

Ashley Saupe is the host of the Sharp End Podcast, a show built around firsthand accounts of accidents, near misses, survival, and the complicated psychology of risk in the outdoors. But before she started the podcast, she was studying the mistakes of others, reading Accidents in North American Climbing, an annual publication by the American Alpine Club that documents climbing incidents, what went wrong, and the lessons people take away from them. She became fascinated not by triumphs or summit photos, but by the thin line between routine and disaster—the small decisions, overlooked details, and human tendencies that can shift a situation toward danger. Eventually, she began to think: someone should turn these stories into a podcast. That idea became The Sharp End.  For more than eleven years, she's been listening to people recount moments when things fell apart, and in the process her own relationship to climbing, risk, and the outdoors has changed. In her twenties and early thirties, she was more concerned with reaching the summit, but now, as she nears 40, she's learned to enjoy the journey. These days, success means facilitating wilderness experiences for other people and getting down safely. She's less interested in collecting accomplishments than she is in what the outdoors reveal about fear, ego, vulnerability, and identity. Now, she often spends time alone in the backcountry, where the silence and isolation force her to confront these things directly. She says time slows down in the mountains, that survival depends on paying attention: listening to your body, the weather, your partner, the rock in front of you. That way of moving through the outdoors has also shaped the way she thinks about Alaska, how it's scale and mythology often distorts people's judgment and can lead to a dangerous kind of confidence. Many people refer to this as “The Alaska Factor.”

Ep 124 - Climbing Liberty Ridge: Lessons Learned from a Challenging Ascent - Andy & Eric Discover the insights from climbing Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier, including key lessons, mistakes to avoid, and the importance of weather awareness for climbers. In June of 2016, climbers Andy Schriner and Eric Miller embarked on a challenging ascent of Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier. With a mix of excitement and trepidation, they navigated weather challenges, physical demands, and important decision-making that would ultimately shape their experience. Andy and Eric share the lessons learned from their journey, the challenges they faced, and what every climber should consider before tackling this impressive route. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute. → 25% off Mountain Sense PRO Rescue Kits & Rescue Tarps - code SHARPEND25 (exp. 6/1) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% online Responder Alliance trainings, including the Responder HUB - code SHARPEND → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through 12/31/26 - code SHARPEND → 10% off Wallpoppe - code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments - code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine - code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code SHARPEND26

Matt Samet is a sport-climbing pioneer, climbing lifer, writer, editor, and literary icon. His new role at the American Alpine Club is launching the American Climbing Journal, an annual perfect-bound book documenting the biggest and most interesting ascents of the year. But first, what would it take to get you to quit climbing? Kalous briefly dreams of taking the easy way out before Bisharat knocks some sense into him, as per usual. Last but never least, our final bit comes from climber Stefan Levinson, stage name WITHANEFF and the track Are Zombies Happy. Show Notes Follow Matt Samet — https://www.instagram.com/phorrizzler6514/ Follow the American Alpine Club — https://www.instagram.com/americanalpine/ Follow the American Alpine Journal — https://www.instagram.com/americanalpinejournal/ AAC — https://americanalpineclub.org Stefan Levinson / WITHANEFF — https://soundcloud.com/stefanwithaneff Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast

On October 1st, 2025, 23-year-old Balin Miller stood near the summit of El Capitan in Yosemite National Park — glitter on his cheeks, orange tent packed, having just completed one of the most psychologically punishing climbs in the world. In the first nine months of 2025 alone, he had accomplished feats that made legends of the sport shake their heads in disbelief, all while living out of a beat-up silver Prius on a shoestring budget. But in the moments after his greatest triumph, something went terribly wrong. This is the story of a young man who packed more living into 23 years than most people do in a lifetime — and the single, heartbreaking oversight that ended it all. Bring tissues, and maybe don't listen to this one alone. Timestamps: 00:34 Disaster Strikes Intro 01:20 El Capitan Tragedy Setup 03:18 Baylen Alaska Origins 04:49 Prius Glitter Lifestyle 06:26 Reality Bath Solo 08:21 Denali Slavic Direct 11:18 Sea of Dreams Explained 14:02 Livestream Orange Tent 16:09 Rappel Off Rope End 17:37 Stopper Knot Theory 19:10 Aftermath And Tributes 22:13 Legacy And Lessons 25:13 Safety Reminder Outro Listen AD FREE: Support our podcast at patreaon: http://patreon.com/TheCruxTrueSurvivalPodcast Email us! thecruxsurvival@gmail.com Instagram https://www.instagram.com/thecruxpodcast/ Get schooled by Julie in outdoor wilderness medicine! https://www.headwatersfieldmedicine.com/ References "Balin Miller: American climber dies aged 23 while climbing El Capitan." October 3, 2025. https://www.cnn.com/2025/10/03/sport/climbing-balin-miller-death-intl CBC News. "Climber Balin Miller, 23-year-old who achieved rare Banff summit, dies in fall at Yosemite's El Capitan." October 3, 2025. https://www.cbc.ca/news/world/yosemite-climbing-death-miller-1.7650097 Gafni, Matthias. "Witness describes horror of streaming climber Balin Miller's fatal fall in Yosemite." San Francisco Chronicle, October 4, 2025. https://www.sfchronicle.com/outdoors/article/witness-climber-balin-miller-fall-21083821.php Early, Wesley. "Alaska climber Balin Miller dies during El Capitan summit." Alaska Public Media, October 3, 2025. https://alaskapublic.org/news/2025-10-03/alaska-climber-balin-miller-dies-during-el-capitan-summit Gripped Magazine. "Balin Miller Solos the Slovak Direct on Denali." June 16, 2025. https://gripped.com/news/balin-miller-solos-the-slovak-direct-on-denali/ Gripped Magazine. "The Reality Bath in the Rockies Repeated Solo." January 11, 2025. https://gripped.com/profiles/the-reality-bath-in-the-rockies-repeated-solo/ Gripped Magazine. "Alpinist Balin Miller Dies in a Rappel Accident in Yosemite." October 2025. https://gripped.com/news/alpinist-balin-miller-dies-in-a-rappel-accident-in-yosemite/ Walsh, Anthony. "Bold Young Alpinist Balin Miller Dies in Yosemite Fall." Climbing Magazine, October 2025. https://www.climbing.com/news/alpinist-balin-miller-dies-in-yosemite/ American Alpine Club. "A Tribute to Balin Miller." October 15, 2025. https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/10/15/a-tribute-to-balin-miller Twight, Mark. "The Reality Bath re-Redux." Substack, January 17, 2025. https://marktwight.substack.com/p/the-reality-bath-re-redux Explorersweb. "Denali: Slovak Direct Soloed, Season in Full Swing." June 20, 2025. https://explorersweb.com/denali-slovak-direct-soloed-season-in-full-swing/ Wikipedia contributors. "Balin Miller." Wikipedia, The Free Encyclopedia. Accessed October 2025. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Balin_Miller NBC News. "Noted climber falls to his death at Yosemite National Park's El Capitan rock formation." October 4, 2025. https://www.nbcnews.com/news/us-news/noted-climber-falls-death-yosemite-national-parks-el-capitan-rock-form-rcna235570 Hosted by Simplecast, an AdsWizz company. See pcm.adswizz.com for information about our collection and use of personal data for advertising.

Ep 123 - Maximizing Wilderness Preparedness - Insights from a Mountain Guide - Mark Smiley You already know that Ashley loves wilderness medicine so much, and she always wants her listeners to be as prepared as possible in the backcountry. That's what inspired this episode. Tune in to hear Ashley interview Mark Smiley, an IFMGA Mountain Guide, who shares his expertise on outdoor safety gear, rescue techniques, and backcountry preparedness. Ashley and Mark discuss practical tips, innovative gear, and lessons learned from guiding and safety experience in remote wilderness environments. Whether you're a guide, outdoor enthusiast, or wilderness professional, learn how to optimize your safety setup and decision-making in remote environments. Get your MTN Sense Mountain Rescue Kit here! This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe and sponsored by Rocky Talkie. **This episode is not sponsored by MTNSense. Ashley simply did her research and found that this is hands down the best custom built backcountry rescue kit out there (in her opinion) and also very much respects Mark Smiley's values and professional background. → 25% off Mountain Sense PRO Rescue Kits & Rescue Tarps - code SHARPEND25 (exp. 6/1) → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through 12/31/26 - code SHARPEND → 10% off Wallpoppe - code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments - code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine - code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this episode of The Sharp End Podcast, Garrett Vinoski shares his harrowing experience of a near miss during a backcountry skiing trip in Moonlight Basin on December 5th in 2023. He discusses the factors leading up to the incident, including decision-making processes, avalanche conditions, and the importance of communication and risk management in the backcountry. Garrett reflects on the emotional aftermath of the avalanche, the lessons learned, and the changes he and his wife have made to their approach to backcountry skiing to enhance safety and awareness. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and American Alpine Institute. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through December 31, 2026 using code SHARPEND → 10% off Wallpoppe orders with code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

Bernadette McDonald is an award-winning author, speaker, and one of the world's leading voices in mountain culture. She has written thirteen books and received many of the highest honours in mountain literature including two Boardman Tasker Prizes, the Banff Mountain Book Festival Grand Prize, Italy's ITAS Prize, two National Outdoor Book Awards, and India's Kekoo Naoroji Award. In 2011, the American Alpine Club awarded her its highest literary honour for excellence in mountain literature. Bernadette was the founding Vice President of Mountain Culture at the Banff Centre and spent 20 years as director of the Banff Mountain Festivals. She is a recipient of the Alberta Order of Excellence, an honorary member of the Himalayan Club and the Polish Mountaineering Association, and a Fellow of The Explorers Club. When she's not writing, Bernadette can be found climbing, hiking, skiing, paddling, and growing grapes. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

In this episode of The Sharp End Podcast, Ashley interviews the Executive director of Trek for Trevor, a charity formed in memory of his son Trevor, who tragically died while attempting to hike the Pacific Crest Trail. Doug shares Trevor's story, the importance of outdoor safety, and the mission of Trek for Trevor to educate hikers about safety gear and decision-making in the wilderness. The conversation also delves into the profound grief of losing a child and how Doug has found purpose in honoring his only son's legacy through advocacy and education. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, American Alpine Institute and onX Backcountry. Learn more and consider supporting the Trek For Trevor Foundation: https://www.trekfortrevor.org/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through December 31, 2026 using code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this episode of The Sharp End Podcast, host Ashley speaks with Rob and Mark about their harrowing experience during an avalanche incident while skiing in the Selkirks of Canada. They discuss the events leading up to the avalanche, the survival tactics employed, and the emotional and mental challenges faced during and after the incident. The conversation emphasizes the importance of safety, decision-making, and the lessons learned from their experience, highlighting how even experienced skiers can find themselves in dangerous situations. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Wallpoppe. Sign-Up for the Wallpoppe giveaway at thesharpendpodcast.com between 1/15 and 1/31. The WINNER will receive a 20x30” dyed picture from their own camera roll + a frame + free shipping. One entry per person. → 10% off Wallpoppe orders with code SHARPEND → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through December 31, 2026 using code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this episode: A woman has 1,446 metal objects in her stomach, a teenager faces almost certain death unless a nail is removed from her lung, a doctor claims that a patient has a bullfrog living in her stomach, and much more! My niece Sierra McGivney's story about the four women who helped create the American Alpine Club: https://americanalpineclub.org/news/2025/11/5/guidebook-xvilibrary-feature Talks that I am scheduled to give: Monday, January 26, 2026 – Clifton Park Library - https://events.cphlibrary.org/event/15276997 Friday, March 27, 2026 – Hudson Valley CC (Troy) - https://tinyurl.com/5839cad3 Wednesday, April 29, 2026 – Hudson Valley CC (Malta) - https://tinyurl.com/swksxtr3 Images, links, and transcripts for this podcast can be found at https://uselessinformation.org/retrocast-39-podcast-252/ You can follow the Useless Information Podcast on these platforms: Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/uselessinformationpodcast X (Twitter): https://t.co/7pV2H8iXJV Reddit: https://www.reddit.com/r/FlipSideofHistory/ The Useless Information Podcast is a member of the Airwave Media podcast network.  Visit https://www.airwavemedia.com/ to listen to more great podcasts just like this one. Please contact advertising@airwavemedia.com if you would like to advertise on our podcast. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Joanne Urioste is an American rock climber who was inducted into the elite group of Honorary Members of the American Alpine Club which includes 136 climbers worldwide “who have had a lasting and highly significant impact on the advancement of the climbing craft.” In the late 1970s and early 80s, she and her husband, Jorge, established many internationally-recognized long technical climbs in the Red Rocks of Southern Nevada. She was the first woman to publish the first guidebook—ever—to a major climbing area that was previously unknown. She also contributed to pioneering ultra-distance adventure running in the 1990s. She lives with Jorge in Las Vegas, NV, and continues to establish first ascents, even in her seventies.Episode Intro:Welcome back to the Female Guides Requested. Happy New Year! This is your host Ting Ting from Las Vegas. Today's guest is a legendary figure whose name is etched into the very sandstone of Red Rock Canyon. Joanne Urioste is a pioneering rock climber, author, and guide who re-imagined what was possible on the towering walls of the American Southwest.Starting her climbing journey in the early 1970s—a time when female climbers were often sidelined—Joanne sought out the high-risk, death-defying situations that most would avoid to prove her independence and mastery. Alongside her husband Jorge, she established hundreds of first ascents that are now world-renowned classics, including Epinephrine, Crimson Chrysalis, and Levitation 29.Joanne didn't just climb; she literally wrote the book on the region, publishing the original Red Rock guidebook in 1984. After a ten-year hiatus to raise her children—a period where she channeled her drive into becoming an elite ultra-runner—she returned to the rock with a renewed passion. Today, we sit down in her home to discuss her ‘renegade' early days, the evolution of climbing ethics, and why she believes that taking risks is the only way to truly stay alive.Links:Book: Collages of Rock & Desire: Re-imagining Climbing in Red Rock, Risk in the Andes & Running into Dreams (amazon)Quotes:On the spirit of climbing: “It doesn't matter if you are physically disabled or not perfect. If you have the spirit and love of climbing, there are different ways that you can climb.”On her ‘renegade' beginnings: “We were just absolute renegades, just you know, shooting from the hip. Boom, boom! Let's do this! Let's do that!”On the intensity of managing risk: “Calculation, risk assessment was the game… you had very strong consequences if you did not calculate correctly.”On the purpose of pushing limits: “This was not about enjoyment. This was about managing the risk in a way that was where you would survive. Pitting yourself against very strong elements and succeeding.”On the ‘Bolting Police': “As we started putting up better and better routes that were like amazing, then people started recognizing that… they started having tremendous hatred for us. As a matter of fact, that type of hatred actually pushed us to do more outrageous things.”On climbing as a spiritual act: “I wanted to really put yourself out there so that you would calculate as humbly as you could with nature and lay yourself down… almost as a form of worship to the natural forces.”On the unique wisdom of female climbers: “The groups of men will absolutely plug their ears and not listen to my advice… it's actually detrimental to the men because they would benefit from the wisdom that they're not listening to.”On why she continues to seek risk: “Having some risk in everything that I do… just keeps me alive. It expands my humanity. Looking at my weakest points and trying to work on them a little bit… it's just such a beautiful way to live.”

In this episode, Matthew and Jeremy share their harrowing experience hiking Mount Washington, detailing the challenges they faced with unpredictable weather, navigation issues, and the importance of preparation and communication in outdoor adventures. They reflect on the lessons learned from their journey, emphasizing the need for contingency plans and the bond formed through shared adversity. Yet another epic tale from an epic mountain. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, American Alpine Institute and onX Backcountry. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 30% off onX Backcountry Premium or Elite, valid through December 31, 2026 using code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Subscribe to the Sharp End Podcast on YouTube! Show your support by becoming a Patreon Member! HAPPY NEW YEAR!

The final stages of the expedition to summit Denali were grueling for Walter Harper and the rest of the team. And after that accomplishment, Harper's life was tragically short. Research: Bishop, Click. “Sponsor Statement SB-144 – Walter Harper Day.” Alaska State Legislature. https://www.akleg.gov/basis/get_documents.asp?session=31&docid=58198 Dean, Patrick. “How Hudson Stuck's Ascent of Denali Boosted Recognition of Indigenous Alaskans.” History News Network. 12/13/2020. https://www.hnn.us/article/how-hudson-stucks-ascent-of-denali-boosted-recogni Denali National Park and Preserve. “Superintendent Harry Karstens.” https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/photosmultimedia/station06a.htm Ehrlander, Mary. “Walter Harper, Alaska Native Son.” UAF Summer Sessions & Lifelong Learning. Via YouTube. 7/7/2018. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-FrvS3gONg Farquhar, Francis P. “Henry P. Karstens—1878-1955.” The American Alpine Club. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195611200/Henry-P-Karstens-1878-1955 Hayes, Alan L. “One Congregation, Two Cultures: St. Mark’s Episcopal Church Nenana, Alaska.” Anglican and Episcopal History, vol. 68, no. 1, 1999, pp. 141–46. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/42612013. Accessed 24 Nov. 2025. James, David A. “In story of the legendary ‘Walter Harper: Alaska Native Son,’ Denali is just the beginning.” Alaska Daily News. 12/16/2017. https://www.adn.com/arts/books/2017/12/16/in-story-of-the-legendary-walter-harper-alaska-native-son-denali-is-just-the-beginning/ James, David. “The Brief, But Bright Story of Walter Harper.” Alaska. 5/21/2022. https://alaskamagazine.com/authentic-alaska/the-brief-but-bright-story-of-walter-harper/ John, Peter. “The Gospel According to Peter John.” Krupa, David J., editor. Alaska Native Knowledge Network. 1996. https://ankn.uaf.edu/publications/Books/Peter_John.pdf Johnson, Erik. “Honoring the Unsung Heroes of the 1913 Summit Expedition: Esaias George and John Fredson.” National Park Service. https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/dena-history-unsung-heroes.htm Johnson, Erik. “The Ultimate Triumph and Tragedy: Remembering Walter Harper 100 Years Later.” National Park Service. Denali National Park. https://www.nps.gov/articles/dena-history-harper.htm Manville, Julie and Ross Maller. “The Influence of Christian Missionaries on Alaskan Indigenous Peoples.” Interdisciplinary Journal of Research on Religion. Vol. 5, Article 8. 2009. Miller, Matt. “‘May Light Perpetual Shine Upon Them.’” KTOO. https://www.ktoo.org/2013/10/26/may-light-perpetual-shine-upon-them/ New York Times. “Yukon Indian Opens Coney Island Eyes.” 6/1/1914. Stuck, Hudson. “A winter circuit of our Arctic coast; a narrative of a journey with dog-sleds around the entire Arctic coast of Alaska.” New York. C. Scribner’s Sons. 1920. https://archive.org/details/wintercircuito00stuc/ Stuck, Hudson. “Ten Thousand Miles With A Dog Sled a Narrative of winter travel in Interior Alaska.” 1917. https://archive.org/details/tenthousandmiles0000huds/ Stuck, Hudson. “The ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) a narrative of the first complete ascent of the highest peak in North America.” New York, C. Scribner's Sons. 1914. https://archive.org/details/ascentofdenalimo01stuc/ Stuck, Hudson. “Voyages on the Yukon and its tributaries: a narrative of summer travel in the interior of Alaska.” New York : Charles Scribner's Sons. 1917. https://archive.org/details/cihm_76545/ Walker, Tom. “A Brief Account of the 1913 Climb of Mount McKinley.” Denali National Park and Preserve. https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/historyculture/1913ex.htm Woodside, Christine. “Who Led the First Ascent of Denali? Hudson Stuck, Archdeacon of the Yukon.” Vol. 63, No., 2 Summer/Fall 2012. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

While working as a guide in his youth, Walter Harper met and worked for a man named Hudson Stuck. Their friendship would lead to Walter becoming the first person to reach the summit of Denali. Research: Bishop, Click. “Sponsor Statement SB-144 – Walter Harper Day.” Alaska State Legislature. https://www.akleg.gov/basis/get_documents.asp?session=31&docid=58198 Dean, Patrick. “How Hudson Stuck's Ascent of Denali Boosted Recognition of Indigenous Alaskans.” History News Network. 12/13/2020. https://www.hnn.us/article/how-hudson-stucks-ascent-of-denali-boosted-recogni Denali National Park and Preserve. “Superintendent Harry Karstens.” https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/photosmultimedia/station06a.htm Ehrlander, Mary. “Walter Harper, Alaska Native Son.” UAF Summer Sessions & Lifelong Learning. Via YouTube. 7/7/2018. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9-FrvS3gONg Farquhar, Francis P. “Henry P. Karstens—1878-1955.” The American Alpine Club. https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12195611200/Henry-P-Karstens-1878-1955 Hayes, Alan L. “One Congregation, Two Cultures: St. Mark’s Episcopal Church Nenana, Alaska.” Anglican and Episcopal History, vol. 68, no. 1, 1999, pp. 141–46. JSTOR, http://www.jstor.org/stable/42612013. Accessed 24 Nov. 2025. James, David A. “In story of the legendary ‘Walter Harper: Alaska Native Son,’ Denali is just the beginning.” Alaska Daily News. 12/16/2017. https://www.adn.com/arts/books/2017/12/16/in-story-of-the-legendary-walter-harper-alaska-native-son-denali-is-just-the-beginning/ James, David. “The Brief, But Bright Story of Walter Harper.” Alaska. 5/21/2022. https://alaskamagazine.com/authentic-alaska/the-brief-but-bright-story-of-walter-harper/ John, Peter. “The Gospel According to Peter John.” Krupa, David J., editor. Alaska Native Knowledge Network. 1996. https://ankn.uaf.edu/publications/Books/Peter_John.pdf Johnson, Erik. “Honoring the Unsung Heroes of the 1913 Summit Expedition: Esaias George and John Fredson.” National Park Service. https://www.nps.gov/articles/000/dena-history-unsung-heroes.htm Johnson, Erik. “The Ultimate Triumph and Tragedy: Remembering Walter Harper 100 Years Later.” National Park Service. Denali National Park. https://www.nps.gov/articles/dena-history-harper.htm Manville, Julie and Ross Maller. “The Influence of Christian Missionaries on Alaskan Indigenous Peoples.” Interdisciplinary Journal of Research on Religion. Vol. 5, Article 8. 2009. Miller, Matt. “‘May Light Perpetual Shine Upon Them.’” KTOO. https://www.ktoo.org/2013/10/26/may-light-perpetual-shine-upon-them/ New York Times. “Yukon Indian Opens Coney Island Eyes.” 6/1/1914. Stuck, Hudson. “A winter circuit of our Arctic coast; a narrative of a journey with dog-sleds around the entire Arctic coast of Alaska.” New York. C. Scribner’s Sons. 1920. https://archive.org/details/wintercircuito00stuc/ Stuck, Hudson. “Ten Thousand Miles With A Dog Sled a Narrative of winter travel in Interior Alaska.” 1917. https://archive.org/details/tenthousandmiles0000huds/ Stuck, Hudson. “The ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley) a narrative of the first complete ascent of the highest peak in North America.” New York, C. Scribner's Sons. 1914. https://archive.org/details/ascentofdenalimo01stuc/ Stuck, Hudson. “Voyages on the Yukon and its tributaries: a narrative of summer travel in the interior of Alaska.” New York : Charles Scribner's Sons. 1917. https://archive.org/details/cihm_76545/ Walker, Tom. “A Brief Account of the 1913 Climb of Mount McKinley.” Denali National Park and Preserve. https://www.nps.gov/dena/learn/historyculture/1913ex.htm Woodside, Christine. “Who Led the First Ascent of Denali? Hudson Stuck, Archdeacon of the Yukon.” Vol. 63, No., 2 Summer/Fall 2012. See omnystudio.com/listener for privacy information.

In this conversation Ashley interviews Paxson, the founder of Ermine Skate. He shares his journey into the world of Nordic skating and the unique concept of wild ice skating. They discuss the advantages of Nordic skates over traditional hockey or figure skates, safety tips and gear recommendations to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the ice. Don't forget to sign up for the Giveaway! Ermine Skates is giving away a pair of gold 45cm A110 skates!! Sign up at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. One entry per person. Drawing will be on December 31st. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This Bonus episode could be sponsored by YOU. Please contact me directly for more information. Check out the video we mentioned in the episode created by Cale Green here ---> vimeo.com/244394367 Learn how to grade ice ---> winterbear.com/learn/wild-ice-grading-system/ Sign up for a Wild Ice Safety Course with Luc Mehl ---> www.Triple PointTraining.com → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendp…t/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this conversation Ashley interviews Paxson, the founder of Ermine Skate. He shares his journey into the world of Nordic skating and the unique concept of wild ice skating. They discuss the advantages of Nordic skates over traditional hockey or figure skates, safety tips and gear recommendations to ensure a safe and enjoyable experience on the ice. Don't forget to sign up for the Giveaway! Ermine Skates is giving away a pair of gold 45cm A110 skates!! Sign up at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. One entry per person. Drawing will be on December 31st. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This Bonus episode could be sponsored by YOU. Please contact me directly for more information. Check out the video we mentioned in the episode created by Cale Green here ---> https://vimeo.com/244394367 Learn how to grade ice ---> https://winterbear.com/learn/wild-ice-grading-system/ Sign up for a Wild Ice Safety Course with Luc Mehl ---> www.Triple PointTraining.com → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this episode of the Sharp End Podcast, Jeff shares his harrowing adventure in the Sawtooth Mountains, where a climbing accident left his friend Sydney with a severe knee injury. The conversation covers their initial plans for a climbing trip, the accident itself, the emergency response, and the emotional rollercoaster of waiting for rescue. Jeff reflects on the lessons learned about preparedness, risk management, and the importance of practicing emergency skills in the outdoors. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → 15% off SWOOP. garments with code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20

In this episode of The Sharp End podcast, Nathan shares his incredible journey as an experienced climber, detailing his long-awaited ascent of Bird Brain Boulevard, the challenges he faced during the climb, and the life-altering fall that led to a dramatic self-rescue. Nathan reflects on the importance of patience, the mental and emotional fallout of climbing accidents, and the invaluable lessons learned about self-rescue techniques and the significance of having a reliable partner in the mountains. He expresses gratitude for the Ouray Search and Rescue team and emphasizes the need for climbers to be prepared for emergencies. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, Desert Mountain Medicine and SWOOP. Make sure to sign up for both SWOOP giveaways this month! Check the Sharp End Podcast social media and/or for details. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off SWOOP. garmets with code SHARPEND → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On December 9th, 2023, Domimic triggered an avalanche in the great gulf on the North Eastern side of Mt Washington. The plan was to ski “Airplane Gully", which is one of the longer and more remote lines in the Presidentials. He ended up getting rescued and spent the next year and a half getting seven surgeries dealing with recovery after recovery. This is really the perfect episode to produce as we all roll into fall and start to think about the winter season approaching. What type of ski bindings are you going to invest in and why? What type of equipment will be in your backcountry pack? What type of skills will your backcountry partners have? I hope you learn something from this episode and of course, I hope you enjoy. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and Desert Mountain Medicine. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Outdoor Alliance is the only organization in the U.S. that unites the voices of outdoor enthusiasts to conserve public lands. They help ensure those lands are managed in a way that embraces the human-powered experience. Sam and Adrian host Adam Cramer, CEO of Outdoor Alliance, and Nicole Brown, Communications & Public Engagement Manager. Adam and Nicole's passion for the outdoors is clear, and their joy in representing and connecting human powered users is contagious. - With the first public comment period on rescinding the Roadless Rule recently closing, Adam shares the importance of sharing your voice with your representatives. - Nicole dives into some of the Outdoor Alliance's recent big wins, most notably the 10 year process of advocating for and working with policy makers to develop and pass the EXPLORE Act. - With ongoing threats to our public lands, Adam and Nicole emphasize the importance of these protected areas, and what can be done to continue fighting for them. Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of national advocacy organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, the Mountaineers, the American Alpine Club, the Colorado Mountain Club, and the Surfrider Foundation. Visit www.outdooralliance.org for more information, or follow Outdoor Alliance on Instagram, Facebook, X or LinkedIn. Follow our podcast on Instagram @duffelshufflepodcast where you can learn more about us and our guests. Visit our website at www.duffelshufflepodcast.com and join our mailing list. The Duffel Shuffle Podcast is supported by Alpenglow Expeditions, an internationally renowned mountain guide service based in Lake Tahoe, California. Visit www.alpenglowexpeditions.com or follow @alpenglowexpeditions on Instagram to learn more.

In this episode of the podcast, we sit down with AAC Librarian Natalie Siciliano to chat about a fascinating part of the American Alpine Club's history: the days when you used to have to apply to be a member of the Club. The application membership system lasted for nearly 90 years–which means we have extensive records in our archives that feature the climbing resumes and recommendation letters from thousands of climbing's most fascinating characters. In this episode, we dive into the how and why of this application system, why it got dismantled, and what membership at the Club looks like now. Plus, we take a look at some highlights from the applications of legends like Lynn Hill, Yvon Chouinard, Ichiro Yoshizawa, and more.

What is it like to see a pair of skis on a glacier with no one around? What is it like to hear someone's hoarse and terrified voice deep inside a crevasse screaming up at you? Gregg Kavet knows first hand. Gregg has lots of learnings from this incident in this episode. The classic objective learnings, of course, as well as how this experience shaped his parenting style with his own boys. He reflects on how to discuss threatening environments with his kids and how to describe the risk his kids take can affect their future. Tune in to hear the full account. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the American Alpine Institute and Desert Mountain Medicine. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

A Route to Resilience: Recognizing and Supporting Psychological Stress Injuries in Outdoor Culture A LIVE Sharp End Podcast with Responder Alliance Founder Laura McGladrey Part 2: The Route To Healing- Supporting Each Other & Ourselves In the second installment of this two-part series, Laura McGladrey shares a range of practical tools for recognizing and managing stress injuries. Drawing from her extensive experience in mental health and wilderness medicine, McGladrey explores both personal strategies and broader systemic approaches that can be implemented within outdoor communities and workplaces. Her insights emphasize resilience, peer support, and the importance of creating a culture where stress injury awareness is normalized and actively addressed. Episodes to listen to before this one: --> Ep 111 - Big Fall from Bad Comms with Manny and Tyler --> Ep 114 - Part I - Route to Resilience We reference Episode 111 several times throughout this conversation, so we encourage you to give that one a listen first. Then, be sure to check out Episode 114, which is Part 1 of the Route to Resilience series. That episode focuses on psychological stress injuries in outdoor culture and lays the groundwork for the tools and strategies discussed here in Part 2. This episode was brought to you by: Rocky Talkie and Desert Mountain Medicine → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

(Lander, WY) – The KOVE 1330 AM / 107.7 FM Today in the 10 interview series Coffee Time continued today with host Vince Tropea, who recently spoke with Cody Kaemmerlan, the new VP of Advancement at the National Outdoor Leadership Society (NOLS), who also serves on the board of directors for the American Alpine Club. Kaemmerlan stopped by to discuss all things NOLS, including the recent $3.1 million gift from longtime supporter and friend to NOLS, JK Nicholas, his background on how he formed a love for the outdoors, and how he ended up in the NOLS family. Check out the full Coffee Time interview with Kaemmerlan below for a fun chat! Be sure to tune in to Today in the 10 and Coffee Time interviews every morning from 7:00 to 9:00 AM on KOVE 1330 AM / 107.7 FM, or stream it live right here.

In this conversation, Danny Giovale shares his journey as an outdoor enthusiast and innovator, discussing his film 'Designed by Disaster' which recounts a life-altering climbing accident. He explains the development of his products, including the KTS crampon and microspikes, designed to enhance safety in non-technical terrains. The discussion emphasizes the importance of risk assessment in outdoor activities and how personal experiences shape product innovation. Danny also highlights the significance of preparedness and the lessons learned from his and others' experiences in the field. In this conversation, Ashley and Danny discuss innovative outdoor gear, particularly the upcoming Microspikes Ghost, and share personal hiking experiences that highlight the importance of safety and preparedness in outdoor activities. They also delve into the philanthropic aspects of Danny's business, emphasizing environmental responsibility and community engagement. The conversation wraps up with plans for future adventures and a call to action for listeners to prioritize safety and support local businesses. Make sure to watch 'Designed by Disaster'. Don't forget to sign up for this month's GIVEAWAY! Kahtoola is gifting one lucky winner a pair of the KTS's, since those tie directly into the origins of Danny's story. In addition to that product, Kahtoola will also throw in a pair of MICROspikes! To enter the giveaway, head to thesharpendpodcast.com and enter right on the homepage. Drawing will be 7/31. One entry per person. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This is a BONUS episode supported by all my PATREON members. Head over to Patreon.com, search ‘The Sharp End Podcast' and become a Patreon member today. This podcast survives off of the support from my listeners. → 20% off all traction and crampon products including the original KTS with code SHARPEND (Discount valid from 7/15 to 8/30) at https://kahtoola.com/ → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off any wilderness med course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → Global Rescue Insurance: https://partner.globalrescue.com/thesharpendpodcast/index.html → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Peter Johnston is a long-time rock climber and currently resides in Portland, Oregon. After seeing years of truly poor decision making at his local crags, Peter gathered his observations and thoughts about these experiences and began writing it all down. About one year ago, the final result was "...But I Won't Fall There," released by Sharp End Publishing from Boulder, CO. Peter believes the content of this book has a lot of potential overlap with topics on the Sharp End Podcast and he is excited for you to read it. Make sure to grab your copy of "...But I Won't Fall There," by Peter Johnston. Click this link to get yours. https://stores.sharpendbooks.com/but-i-wont-fall-there-risk-assessment-when-transitioning-from-gym-to-crag/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This is a BONUS episode supported by all my PATREON members. Head over to Patreon.com, search ‘The Sharp End Podcast' and become a Patreon member today. This podcast survives off of the support from my listeners. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Over the past few years, Megan and Michael had their eyes set on Temple Crag Peak; a 13,000 foot peak about six miles into the backcountry of the Eastern Sierras in California. The two of them attempted it in late July of 2021, and ended up being stuck on the side of the mountain during a thunderstorm for several hours during the retreat. That's one story… but then they went back this past summer to try again. After a 23 hour day, they made the summit and learned a lot along the way. Tune in to this episode to hear the full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Dawn Hollis has been obsessed with mountains since she was a small child growing up in Suffolk, which she describes as being “a really flat part of the UK.” Her first glimpse of more elevated landscapes came at age nine on a family trip to Wales. The trip sparked a lifelong passion for being in, and studying the history of, these wild places. Later, Hollis had a school teacher who had climbed Everest, and further encouraged her love of mountains. As an adult, Hollis found a niche in researching humans' relationships to mountains and how it has changed over time. Her book “Mountains Before Mountaineering” draws on years of PhD research, and calls into question common beliefs about how peaks were viewed before the eighteenth century. In this episode, Hollis talks about the challenges she's encountered as she upended the belief that mountains were generally feared or avoided during this time. She says our appreciation for mountains pre-dates the modern era—even if historical texts theorize otherwise—and continues to evolve to this day.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Guest: Dawn Hollis Book: Mountains Before Mountaineering Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Alison Osius is easily one of the most impactful people in climbing media. She helped to shape how so many climbers learned more about and engaged with the sport from the 80s into the 20s. She's a former editor at Climbing, Rock and Ice and Outside, the first woman president of the American Alpine Club, wrote Second Ascent: The Story of Hugh Herr and has received the AAC Literary Award.  She's a climbing legend.  In this episode we discuss how she discovered climbing through journalism, her first times meeting the other top women of the 80s, and some of the first big competitions. We also get Alison's side of the rivalry with Bobbi Bensman that we heard about last season, and of course, because she's a media legend, I ask her theorize about the answers to impossible to answer questions. We start the conversation talking about a big event that had just happened before we recorded.  Power Company Climbing Anniversary Sale!  Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

On June 13, 2019, Liz and her friend set out to hike the Oxford and Belford Peaks, which are 14ers in Colorado, including eleven long miles and lots of elevation gain. At one point on their hike, they got off route and lost the trail. In this episode, Liz has lots of lessons learned that she wants to share with you. Tune in to hear her whole story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He's been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming.  In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change.  A lot has happened in Lightner's life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he's been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country's first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it's still not really his thing.  And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15.  In this episode, Lighter and I catch up about the last six years, discuss the importance of community and connection, and consider the value of forgiveness.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Guest: Kai Lightner Nonprofit: Climbing for Change Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider.  Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer.  Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley's classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose. In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan's Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing.  In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Photos of Basi Zangerl by Jacopo Larcher and Jonathan Faeth Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Access to the outdoors is a basic human need—from the granite under our feet during adventures or simply a breath of fresh air. Yet, that access isn't equal. In the U.S., more than one in three people lack access to a park within a 10-minute walk of home, disproportionately affecting Black and Brown communities. The outdoor and climbing industries face similar challenges. Lack of diversity in leadership, limited funding, and gate-kept information make the climb steeper for many. However, climbers of color have risen to become some of the sport's most accomplished athletes, demonstrating the potential that comes with overcoming barriers. By expanding diversity in leadership, increasing funding, and fostering open access to knowledge, we can create a more inclusive and level playing field for all climbers. Join Trust for Public Land for an inspiring conversation with prominent Asian American climbers Cody Kaemmerlen, Kathy Karlo, and Nina Williams. Moderated by Trust for Public Land's Northwest Director, Mitsu Iwasaki, panelists will delve into their personal journeys, discuss obstacles to equitable access to the sport, and explore the benefits of creating a more inclusive environment for everyone. Cody Kaemmerlen is a passionate rock climber and advocate for inclusivity in the climbing community as well as the outdoors. He is the Director of Advancement Operations for NOLS and serves on the Board of Directors for the American Alpine Club. Based in Wyoming, Cody leads efforts to create welcoming and equitable spaces in the outdoors by addressing barriers to diversity and inclusion. With personal experiences as a South Korean adoptee raised in rural Oregon, he brings a unique perspective to his work. Cody's commitment to equity is also highlighted in the film “Dear Mother,” where he delves into his identity and the challenges faced by people of color in the climbing world. Kathy Karlo is a storyteller at heart who has dedicated herself to reshaping the narrative around climbing and the outdoors. As the creator and host of the For the Love of Climbing podcast, she dives into the emotional and vulnerable sides of the sport, while also amplifying the voices of those often left out of the conversation. Kathy also leads as Executive Director of No Man's Land Film Festival, an all-women adventure film festival that challenges traditional narratives by showcasing female-driven stories. Through her work, Kathy strives to create a more inclusive outdoor space where everyone can feel empowered to share their authentic experiences. Nina Williams is a professional rock climber recognized for her groundbreaking achievements in highball bouldering and trad climbing. Based in Boulder, Colorado, Nina has pushed the limits of what is possible, becoming the first woman to climb iconic routes like “Too Big to Flail” and “Ambrosia” in Bishop, California. Her climbing career is marked by a deep mental discipline, and she is passionate about access and mentorship in the climbing world. Beyond her personal accomplishments, Nina is committed to fostering inclusivity in outdoor spaces, working with organizations like Flash Foxy, Color the Crag, and the Women's Climbing Symposium to ensure everyone can connect with nature. As Board President of the American Alpine Club and a Certified Professional Coach, Nina's work reflects her belief in the power of the outdoors to inspire and uplift all communities. Mitsu Iwasaki, our moderator for the evening, is the Associate Vice President and Northwest Director of Trust for Public Land. Born in Japan, Iwasaki's family immigrated to Seattle, WA soon after he turned six years old. Growing up in the relative comfort of the suburbs, his parents felt it would be best to ‘build his character' by sending him to work on a commercial fishing boat throughout his teenage summers in Chignik, Alaska. Those experiences sparked an enduring love for wild places, inspiring a life-long journey of adventure and exploration of both natural landscapes and his capacity as a person. He has been climbing, skiing, and running across our beloved northwest mountains and around the world for over three decades. Presented by Town Hall Seattle and Trust for Public Land.

The Pursuit – EP175 – Outdoor Alliance Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, The Mountaineers, American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, Colorado Mountain Club, and Surfrider Foundation. For 10 years, Outdoor Alliance has [...] The post The Pursuit – EP175 – Outdoor Alliance appeared first on Out Of Collective.

Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn's ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition. But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms. Last, our final bit is: Show Notes Amity Warme on Instagram Amity Warme website Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño. Watch Amity climb Book of Hate “Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com Pay What You Can Toolkit on the AAC

Allyson Gunsallus is a climber and lawyer who serves on the board of the American Alpine Club. She is also the producer and director of Hand Holds, a new film interview series providing resources for climbing parents. Our conversation explores how climbing parents navigate the risks inherent to our sport with the demands of their new identity, not to mention the little person in their lives. But first, we've got a tepid Olympic fever and the only cure is more speed climbing. We give the run-down on who to look for in the Olympics, and why it's only Sam Watson. Last but never least, the great Steph Davis onsights an off-the-couch piano performance of the soundtrack of Interstellar. Show Notes Hand Holds is six free-to-watch episodes featuring interviews with well-known climbers, including Beth Rodden, Majka Burhardt, Eddie and Anna Taylor, Jon and Jess Glassberg, Kris Hampton, and Chris Kalous. Visit handholdsfilm.com for more information. Follow Allyson Gunsallus / Hand Holds on Instagram Follow Steph Davis on Instagram Who is in the Olympics? Watch Sam Watson set the world record Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

In Episode 10 of Ninety-Pound Rucksack, host Christian Beckwith explores how John McCown and his fellow citizen-soldiers overcame traditional military doctrine to prepare for mountain warfare—and in the process, reshaped the Old Army into one of the mightiest forces the world had ever known. Show Notes and Resources: www.christianbeckwith.com The episode includes interviews with Ninety-Pound Rucksack Advisory Board Members: Lance R. Blyth: Command Historian of North American Aerospace Defense Command (NORAD) and United States Northern Command (USNORTHCOM); Adjunct Professor of History at the United States Air Force Academy. David Little: “living historian” for the Tenth Mountain Division Foundation. Sepp Scanlin: military historian and museum professional; served as the 10th Mountain Division and Fort Drum Museum's Museum Director. Key Points: The draft and the enlistment of citizen soldiers changed the US Army from a rigid, authoritarian, all-volunteer institution into one of the mightiest forces the world had ever known. The development of Officer Candidate School (OCS) created an industrial-style assembly line that produced junior leaders to lead the citizen army into combat. The innovative Junior Officers' Plan, which was developed to train officers for the mountain troops and then return them to the unit, preserved institutional knowledge critical to the mountain troops' ability to fight in cold weather and mountainous terrain. A specialized division designed to fight in extreme conditions had to adapt the Army's standard flatland, warm-weather military strategies to mountain warfare. Featured Segments: A vivid recreation of a conversation between John McCown and his peers at Ft. Benning, Georgia, highlighting: their takeaways from Hitler's invasion of the Soviet Union and the impact of winter on his army's defeat their frustrations with traditional Army tactics and its inability to recognize the importance of specialized training their resolve to embody the change they knew the mountain troops would need in order to fulfill its mandate An overview of the Army's transformation from an all-volunteer force into one led by citizen-soldiers like John McCown. Detailed analyses of Officer Candidate School, the Junior Officers Plan and the need for a purpose-built encampment for the mountain troops. Patron Support: A special thank you to our community of patrons for making our research possible. Join us at www.patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack to support the show and access exclusive content. Sponsorship Acknowledgments: CiloGear: Makers of the finest alpine backpacks. Visit cilogear.com and use code "rucksack" for a 5% discount and a matching donation to the American Alpine Club. Snake River Brewing: Wyoming's oldest and America's most award-winning small craft brewery. Discover their beers at snakeriverbrewing.com. Partnership Acknowledgments: The 10th Mountain Division Foundation: The mission of the Tenth Mountain Division Foundation is to honor and perpetuate the legacy of the soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division past, present, and future by doing good works that exemplify the ideals by which they lived.  American Alpine Club: Supporting climbers and preserving climbing history for over 120 years. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org. The Denver Public Library: The Denver Public Library: The Denver Public Library's 10th Mountain Division Resource Center is the official repository for all records and artifacts related to the World War II-era 10th Mountain Division. The 10th Mountain Division Descendants: The 10th Mountain Division Descendants: The 10th Mountain Division Descendants, Inc. exists to preserve and enhance the legacy of the WWII 10th Mountain Division and 10th Mountain Division (LI) for future generations.

“The mountain always show you how far you can go, and how far you are allowed to go, because biggest success will be always not to reach the summit, to come back alive from expedition.”Thomas Huber, a legendary alpinist and one half of the iconic Huber brothers is a prolific first ascensionist who has climbed some of the world's most challenging mountains, including the Ogre, Cerro Torre, and the elusive Latok 1. He's also made his mark on Yosemite Valley, where he and his brother Alex became part of the legendary “Stone Monkey” community, pioneering some of the most iconic routes on El Capitan. At almost 60, he's still strong and was on his way to the Karakoram in Pakistan when we recorded this podcast. Listen in for surprising insights into his relationship with risk, his approach to training and recovery, and the profound impact of his experiences on his perspective on life, culture, and the planet. He's also received numerous awards recognizing his accomplishments and his dedication to the sport, including the Piolet d'Or, arguably the biggest honor in alpinism, as well as recognition from the American Alpine Club for his rescue efforts on Cerro Torre.

This is Part Two of this story sequence with Taylor Rose. If you haven't tuned in to episode 99, stop here and go back and listen to Part One (Episode 99) where Taylor Rose shares all about the details of his accident when he broke his femur on April 2nd, 2021 backcountry skiing in Huntington Ravine in the Mount Washington area. In this episode, Taylor reflects on what he learned and how he moved through the challenging recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy and supported by the American Alpine Club. To sign up for the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ Sign up to win a pair of Rocky Talkie Mountain Radios at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing on May 15th. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Taylor Rose is a twenty-four year old guy who loves the outdoors. He was out skiing in the backcountry with some friends in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington in 2021 when he suffered a broken femur from a long sliding fall that resulted in a rescue involving his crew and the Mount Washington Avalanche Center. Tune in to hear part one of this series. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

It's been a rough week. I hope you can smile while remembering Matt Primomo through listening to our interview from a few years ago. We lost another great human and avalanche professional last week- Nick Burks. A call to action of our community to reach out to The Avalanche Hour with stories of Nick that can be recorded and put together into a podcast episode. Email theavalanchehourpodcast@gmail.com to find out how to get involved. Music by Ketsa. https://ketsa.uk/ Go Fund Me for Stella and Milo: https://www.gofundme.com/f/supporting-stella-and-milo Resources for Grief and Support: Thanks to the help of Erin Good of Updraft Counseling for providing these descriptions. Responder Alliance - works to build awareness of stress injury and increase resilience for folks who work in austere environments. Please note they are largely focused on prevention, however many of the resources and tools are very applicable and provide a good foundation for having conversations around stress and trauma. https://www.responderalliance.com/ Climbing Grief Fund, American Alpine Club - CGF hosts a therapist directory and offers individual grants of up to $600 to individuals who have experienced grief or trauma related to climbing, alpinism, or ski mountaineering. You do not have to be a member of the American Alpine Club to apply for a CGF grant. https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund American Avalanche Association - The A3 Avalanche Resilience Project also hosts a therapist directory with folks who have familiarity with the industry. A3 also offers a "resilience grant" of up to $500 to Professional and Affiliate members who are interested in pursuing therapy. https://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/resilience-project Survivors of Outdoor Adventures and Recovery (SOAR) - SOAR offers professionally-facilitated peer support groups for folks who have experienced loss or trauma in the outdoors. I just attended one of their community connection workshops on grief and trauma and found it very helpful. Get in touch with this wonderful organization! http://soar4life.org/ Mountain Muskox - For our northern friends, Mountain Muskox is a fantastic organization that offers professionally-facilitated in person peer support circles in BC and Alberta. They also offer a weekend gathering each fall. https://www.mountainmuskox.com/ The Redside Foundation - Redside provides funding for guides who are in need of medical or mental health care. They do not provide counseling directly, but rather they will pay for up to eight therapy sessions for guides in need. While they focus on individuals who live in Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming. If you don't live in one of these states, don't let it stop you from getting in touch. They will help! https://www.redsidefoundation.org/ Bigger Than The Trail - BTTT is an organization that uses trail running as a platform to talk about mental health. They also offer scholarships to folks who experience financial barriers to individual therapy. BTTT will pay for up to eight therapy sessions, however please note they do not have a directory - they work with existing platforms such as BetterHelp or Calmerry, so the therapist may or may not have a familiarity with outdoor / backcountry pursuits. Still, it is a great option for someone who needs support. https://www.bttt.run/support

Devin Farkas was instructing a ten day climbing course in Joshua Tree National Park this last January. They were on day two of this ten day course when Devin's trip was cut short. Tune into this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On Fourth of July weekend, two climbing partners, Grant and David, set out to climb a 2,200 foot climb on the Northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in California. The conditions were perfect to climb this beautiful and exposed twenty-three pitch climb. Things started out perfectly, but not everything turned out as they had planned. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Andrew Clements was climbing in Indian Creek on October 18, 2023 with a couple of climbers he had met in the parking lot the same day. He was on a route called Gorilla, which is rated 5.10b, which was his 3rd route of the day. He was standing about 2 feet above his last piece of gear when he fell. Drew injured his hand and both of his heels. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In May of 2023, Allen and Samuel were out skiing Mt. Baker, a 10,781 foot active glacier-covered stratovolcano in the North Cascades of Washington when they came upon another skier who fell 35 feet down inside a crevasse after the snow bridge he was standing on collapsed. With their knowledge of rope skills and crevasse rescue, they sprung into action to rescue the stuck skier. Tune in to this episode to hear all of the details. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, Minus33 and Protekt and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

When Aubrey Runyon first climbed in Colorado's Eldorado Canyon State Park, it was for fun. When she returned several years later, Aubrey was needing a place to call home. Over the years, her relationship with Eldo has weaved between recreation and survival, and eventually healing and love. When Aubrey faced a new big challenge, she leaned on Eldo for strength by way of a big goal– to reach 10,000 pitches in the park.  American Alpine Club's Climbing Grief Fund Support comes from Patagonia AG1 Kuat Racks Aura Frames  Want more episodes? Join Dirtbag Diaries+ today Got a Tale of Terror? Submit it now!