Podcasts about American Alpine Club

Peter Johnston is a long-time rock climber and currently resides in Portland, Oregon. After seeing years of truly poor decision making at his local crags, Peter gathered his observations and thoughts about these experiences and began writing it all down. About one year ago, the final result was "...But I Won't Fall There," released by Sharp End Publishing from Boulder, CO. Peter believes the content of this book has a lot of potential overlap with topics on the Sharp End Podcast and he is excited for you to read it. Make sure to grab your copy of "...But I Won't Fall There," by Peter Johnston. Click this link to get yours. https://stores.sharpendbooks.com/but-i-wont-fall-there-risk-assessment-when-transitioning-from-gym-to-crag/ This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This is a BONUS episode supported by all my PATREON members. Head over to Patreon.com, search ‘The Sharp End Podcast' and become a Patreon member today. This podcast survives off of the support from my listeners. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Over the past few years, Megan and Michael had their eyes set on Temple Crag Peak; a 13,000 foot peak about six miles into the backcountry of the Eastern Sierras in California. The two of them attempted it in late July of 2021, and ended up being stuck on the side of the mountain during a thunderstorm for several hours during the retreat. That's one story… but then they went back this past summer to try again. After a 23 hour day, they made the summit and learned a lot along the way. Tune in to this episode to hear the full story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Dawn Hollis has been obsessed with mountains since she was a small child growing up in Suffolk, which she describes as being “a really flat part of the UK.” Her first glimpse of more elevated landscapes came at age nine on a family trip to Wales. The trip sparked a lifelong passion for being in, and studying the history of, these wild places. Later, Hollis had a school teacher who had climbed Everest, and further encouraged her love of mountains. As an adult, Hollis found a niche in researching humans' relationships to mountains and how it has changed over time. Her book “Mountains Before Mountaineering” draws on years of PhD research, and calls into question common beliefs about how peaks were viewed before the eighteenth century. In this episode, Hollis talks about the challenges she's encountered as she upended the belief that mountains were generally feared or avoided during this time. She says our appreciation for mountains pre-dates the modern era—even if historical texts theorize otherwise—and continues to evolve to this day.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Guest: Dawn Hollis Book: Mountains Before Mountaineering Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Alison Osius is easily one of the most impactful people in climbing media. She helped to shape how so many climbers learned more about and engaged with the sport from the 80s into the 20s. She's a former editor at Climbing, Rock and Ice and Outside, the first woman president of the American Alpine Club, wrote Second Ascent: The Story of Hugh Herr and has received the AAC Literary Award.  She's a climbing legend.  In this episode we discuss how she discovered climbing through journalism, her first times meeting the other top women of the 80s, and some of the first big competitions. We also get Alison's side of the rivalry with Bobbi Bensman that we heard about last season, and of course, because she's a media legend, I ask her theorize about the answers to impossible to answer questions. We start the conversation talking about a big event that had just happened before we recorded.  Power Company Climbing Anniversary Sale!  Check out our website for related episodes, resources and more! Join the Secret Stoners Club for FREE and get bonus episodes. ---------------------------------- Season Two is generously supported by Rab.  This episode is supported by Tension Climbing. Use code WRITTEN15 at checkout. Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing.

On June 13, 2019, Liz and her friend set out to hike the Oxford and Belford Peaks, which are 14ers in Colorado, including eleven long miles and lots of elevation gain. At one point on their hike, they got off route and lost the trail. In this episode, Liz has lots of lessons learned that she wants to share with you. Tune in to hear her whole story. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Use code SHARPEND to waive the activation fee on ZOLEO → 10% off LIVSN clothes with code SharpEnd10 (limited to 30 uses) → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 20% off American Alpine Club membership with code sharpend20 Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patron: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Kai Lightner is no stranger to the spotlight—or to this magazine. He's been climbing since he was six, when he joined the climbing team at a gym in North Carolina. Four years later Lightner won his first national title, and the wins just kept coming.  In 2016, while still in high school, Lightner wrote an essay for Alpinist 55 about learning how to trad climb from Doug Robinson. A few years later, as a sophomore in college, he appeared on this podcast, in conversation with Paula LaRochelle. He had recently taken a step back from climbing and would soon found the nonprofit organization Climbing For Change.  A lot has happened in Lightner's life since that last conversation. He spoke up about his struggles with eating and bodyweight as a competition climber, opening up a bigger conversation. Through Climbing for Change, he's been at the forefront of initiatives aimed at making climbing more diverse and inclusive. He traveled to Jamaica and helped build the country's first climbing wall. Lightner even tried trad climbing again, though he says it's still not really his thing.  And, last year, Lightner climbed his first 5.15.  In this episode, Lighter and I catch up about the last six years, discuss the importance of community and connection, and consider the value of forgiveness.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Guest: Kai Lightner Nonprofit: Climbing for Change Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Last year, Babsi Zangerl did something no one has ever done before—she flashed a route on El Capitan. Thousands of feet of hard climbing with no falls. Her partner, Jacopo Larcher, came really close, taking just one fall during their ascent of Freerider.  Zangerl has been a climber for over two decades, since she was a teenager at a climbing gym in Austria. But what, and how, she climbs has evolved over that time—she spent her early years as a professional boulderer.  Zangerl first visited Yosemite fifteen years ago with her friend Hansjörg Auer. She was getting more serious about ropes after sustaining a serious back injury while bouldering. Since that first trip in 2010, Zangerl has returned with Larcher to free climb many of the valley's classic routes, including Zodiac, Magic Mushroom and the Nose. In 2018 the pair climbed the North Face of the Eiger. In 2022 they freed Eternal Flame on Pakistan's Nameless Tower, a trip Larcher wrote about in Alpinist 82. And their list of accomplishments just keeps growing.  In this episode, Zangerl talks about the beginnings of her climbing career in Austria, her partnership with Larcher, learning the ropes from Hansjörg Auer and much more.  This episode is brought to you with support from the American Alpine Club. Host: Abbey Collins Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn Photos of Basi Zangerl by Jacopo Larcher and Jonathan Faeth Subscribe to Alpinist Magazine 

Access to the outdoors is a basic human need—from the granite under our feet during adventures or simply a breath of fresh air. Yet, that access isn't equal. In the U.S., more than one in three people lack access to a park within a 10-minute walk of home, disproportionately affecting Black and Brown communities. The outdoor and climbing industries face similar challenges. Lack of diversity in leadership, limited funding, and gate-kept information make the climb steeper for many. However, climbers of color have risen to become some of the sport's most accomplished athletes, demonstrating the potential that comes with overcoming barriers. By expanding diversity in leadership, increasing funding, and fostering open access to knowledge, we can create a more inclusive and level playing field for all climbers. Join Trust for Public Land for an inspiring conversation with prominent Asian American climbers Cody Kaemmerlen, Kathy Karlo, and Nina Williams. Moderated by Trust for Public Land's Northwest Director, Mitsu Iwasaki, panelists will delve into their personal journeys, discuss obstacles to equitable access to the sport, and explore the benefits of creating a more inclusive environment for everyone. Cody Kaemmerlen is a passionate rock climber and advocate for inclusivity in the climbing community as well as the outdoors. He is the Director of Advancement Operations for NOLS and serves on the Board of Directors for the American Alpine Club. Based in Wyoming, Cody leads efforts to create welcoming and equitable spaces in the outdoors by addressing barriers to diversity and inclusion. With personal experiences as a South Korean adoptee raised in rural Oregon, he brings a unique perspective to his work. Cody's commitment to equity is also highlighted in the film “Dear Mother,” where he delves into his identity and the challenges faced by people of color in the climbing world. Kathy Karlo is a storyteller at heart who has dedicated herself to reshaping the narrative around climbing and the outdoors. As the creator and host of the For the Love of Climbing podcast, she dives into the emotional and vulnerable sides of the sport, while also amplifying the voices of those often left out of the conversation. Kathy also leads as Executive Director of No Man's Land Film Festival, an all-women adventure film festival that challenges traditional narratives by showcasing female-driven stories. Through her work, Kathy strives to create a more inclusive outdoor space where everyone can feel empowered to share their authentic experiences. Nina Williams is a professional rock climber recognized for her groundbreaking achievements in highball bouldering and trad climbing. Based in Boulder, Colorado, Nina has pushed the limits of what is possible, becoming the first woman to climb iconic routes like “Too Big to Flail” and “Ambrosia” in Bishop, California. Her climbing career is marked by a deep mental discipline, and she is passionate about access and mentorship in the climbing world. Beyond her personal accomplishments, Nina is committed to fostering inclusivity in outdoor spaces, working with organizations like Flash Foxy, Color the Crag, and the Women's Climbing Symposium to ensure everyone can connect with nature. As Board President of the American Alpine Club and a Certified Professional Coach, Nina's work reflects her belief in the power of the outdoors to inspire and uplift all communities. Mitsu Iwasaki, our moderator for the evening, is the Associate Vice President and Northwest Director of Trust for Public Land. Born in Japan, Iwasaki's family immigrated to Seattle, WA soon after he turned six years old. Growing up in the relative comfort of the suburbs, his parents felt it would be best to ‘build his character' by sending him to work on a commercial fishing boat throughout his teenage summers in Chignik, Alaska. Those experiences sparked an enduring love for wild places, inspiring a life-long journey of adventure and exploration of both natural landscapes and his capacity as a person. He has been climbing, skiing, and running across our beloved northwest mountains and around the world for over three decades. Presented by Town Hall Seattle and Trust for Public Land.

The Pursuit – EP175 – Outdoor Alliance Outdoor Alliance is a nonprofit coalition of organizations that includes American Whitewater, American Canoe Association, Access Fund, International Mountain Bicycling Association, Winter Wildlands Alliance, The Mountaineers, American Alpine Club, the Mazamas, Colorado Mountain Club, and Surfrider Foundation. For 10 years, Outdoor Alliance has [...] The post The Pursuit – EP175 – Outdoor Alliance appeared first on Out Of Collective.

Amity Warme is a professional rock climber and dietician, who has not only free climbed El Capitan five times, but has done so each time in true ground-up style. This ground-up style is captured in an awesome new film that tells the story Amity and Brent Barghahn's ground-up free ascent of El Niño via the Pineapple Express Variation on El Capitan. Our conversation ranges from big-wall style and ethics, to her philosophy and approach to nutrition. But first we dive into what the American Alpine Club is calling the greatest access issue in climbing: expensive day passes to climbing gyms. Last, our final bit is: Show Notes Amity Warme on Instagram Amity Warme website Amity Warme and Brent Barghahn free climb El Niño. Watch Amity climb Book of Hate “Can Climbing Outrun Its Own Elitism With Inclusive Gym Pricing?” on Climbing.com Pay What You Can Toolkit on the AAC

The highlight of today's show will be our in-depth interview with Lake Tahoe's Local Legend, Chris McNamara. "Chris Mac" is a name synonymous with adventure and extreme sports. An El Capitan-addicted big wall climber, ex-wingsuit BASE jumper, author of ten books, and co-founder of several notable platforms including SuperTopo, OutdoorGearLab, and Ski Run Presents, McNamara's accolades are extensive. He is also a TAMBA Hall of Famer, solidifying his status as a key figure in the outdoor adventure community. As the Editor-in-Chief and co-founder of the GearLab websites, Chris has carved out a niche as a go-to expert in the outdoor gear world. His expertise extends beyond gear, as he has spent a significant portion of his life scaling some of the most challenging rock faces in the world. Climbing Magazine once calculated that three percent of Chris's life has been spent on the face of Yosemite's El Capitan, a testament to his dedication and perhaps, as friends and family ponder, his sanity. Chris has climbed El Capitan over 70 times and holds nine big wall speed climbing records. In 1998, he completed the first Girdle Traverse of El Capitan, an epic 75-pitch route that leaves many asking, "Why?" His prowess in aid climbing earned him a spot in Outside Magazine's list of “the world's finest aid climbers.” He is also the recipient of the American Alpine Club's prestigious Bates Award and the founder of the American Safe Climbing Association, a nonprofit organization that has replaced over 14,000 dangerous rock climbing anchor bolts. In addition to his climbing achievements, Chris is the founder and lead author of the rock climbing guidebook publisher SuperTopo and a graduate of UC Berkeley. Join us on this episode of Tahoe TAP as we dive deep into Chris McNamara's extraordinary life, his adventures, and his contributions to the climbing and outdoor community. It's an episode you won't want to miss!  

Allyson Gunsallus is a climber and lawyer who serves on the board of the American Alpine Club. She is also the producer and director of Hand Holds, a new film interview series providing resources for climbing parents. Our conversation explores how climbing parents navigate the risks inherent to our sport with the demands of their new identity, not to mention the little person in their lives. But first, we've got a tepid Olympic fever and the only cure is more speed climbing. We give the run-down on who to look for in the Olympics, and why it's only Sam Watson. Last but never least, the great Steph Davis onsights an off-the-couch piano performance of the soundtrack of Interstellar. Show Notes Hand Holds is six free-to-watch episodes featuring interviews with well-known climbers, including Beth Rodden, Majka Burhardt, Eddie and Anna Taylor, Jon and Jess Glassberg, Kris Hampton, and Chris Kalous. Visit handholdsfilm.com for more information. Follow Allyson Gunsallus / Hand Holds on Instagram Follow Steph Davis on Instagram Who is in the Olympics? Watch Sam Watson set the world record Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

In Episode 10 of Ninety-Pound Rucksack, host Christian Beckwith explores how John McCown and his fellow citizen-soldiers overcame traditional military doctrine to prepare for mountain warfare—and in the process, reshaped the Old Army into one of the mightiest forces the world had ever known. Show Notes and Resources: www.christianbeckwith.com The episode includes interviews with Ninety-Pound Rucksack Advisory Board Members: Lance R. Blyth: Command Historian of North American Aerospace Defense Command (NORAD) and United States Northern Command (USNORTHCOM); Adjunct Professor of History at the United States Air Force Academy. David Little: “living historian” for the Tenth Mountain Division Foundation. Sepp Scanlin: military historian and museum professional; served as the 10th Mountain Division and Fort Drum Museum's Museum Director. Key Points: The draft and the enlistment of citizen soldiers changed the US Army from a rigid, authoritarian, all-volunteer institution into one of the mightiest forces the world had ever known. The development of Officer Candidate School (OCS) created an industrial-style assembly line that produced junior leaders to lead the citizen army into combat. The innovative Junior Officers' Plan, which was developed to train officers for the mountain troops and then return them to the unit, preserved institutional knowledge critical to the mountain troops' ability to fight in cold weather and mountainous terrain. A specialized division designed to fight in extreme conditions had to adapt the Army's standard flatland, warm-weather military strategies to mountain warfare. Featured Segments: A vivid recreation of a conversation between John McCown and his peers at Ft. Benning, Georgia, highlighting: their takeaways from Hitler's invasion of the Soviet Union and the impact of winter on his army's defeat their frustrations with traditional Army tactics and its inability to recognize the importance of specialized training their resolve to embody the change they knew the mountain troops would need in order to fulfill its mandate An overview of the Army's transformation from an all-volunteer force into one led by citizen-soldiers like John McCown. Detailed analyses of Officer Candidate School, the Junior Officers Plan and the need for a purpose-built encampment for the mountain troops. Patron Support: A special thank you to our community of patrons for making our research possible. Join us at www.patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack to support the show and access exclusive content. Sponsorship Acknowledgments: CiloGear: Makers of the finest alpine backpacks. Visit cilogear.com and use code "rucksack" for a 5% discount and a matching donation to the American Alpine Club. Snake River Brewing: Wyoming's oldest and America's most award-winning small craft brewery. Discover their beers at snakeriverbrewing.com. Partnership Acknowledgments: The 10th Mountain Division Foundation: The mission of the Tenth Mountain Division Foundation is to honor and perpetuate the legacy of the soldiers of the 10th Mountain Division past, present, and future by doing good works that exemplify the ideals by which they lived.  American Alpine Club: Supporting climbers and preserving climbing history for over 120 years. Learn more at americanalpineclub.org. The Denver Public Library: The Denver Public Library: The Denver Public Library's 10th Mountain Division Resource Center is the official repository for all records and artifacts related to the World War II-era 10th Mountain Division. The 10th Mountain Division Descendants: The 10th Mountain Division Descendants: The 10th Mountain Division Descendants, Inc. exists to preserve and enhance the legacy of the WWII 10th Mountain Division and 10th Mountain Division (LI) for future generations.

“The mountain always show you how far you can go, and how far you are allowed to go, because biggest success will be always not to reach the summit, to come back alive from expedition.”Thomas Huber, a legendary alpinist and one half of the iconic Huber brothers is a prolific first ascensionist who has climbed some of the world's most challenging mountains, including the Ogre, Cerro Torre, and the elusive Latok 1. He's also made his mark on Yosemite Valley, where he and his brother Alex became part of the legendary “Stone Monkey” community, pioneering some of the most iconic routes on El Capitan. At almost 60, he's still strong and was on his way to the Karakoram in Pakistan when we recorded this podcast. Listen in for surprising insights into his relationship with risk, his approach to training and recovery, and the profound impact of his experiences on his perspective on life, culture, and the planet. He's also received numerous awards recognizing his accomplishments and his dedication to the sport, including the Piolet d'Or, arguably the biggest honor in alpinism, as well as recognition from the American Alpine Club for his rescue efforts on Cerro Torre.

This is Part Two of this story sequence with Taylor Rose. If you haven't tuned in to episode 99, stop here and go back and listen to Part One (Episode 99) where Taylor Rose shares all about the details of his accident when he broke his femur on April 2nd, 2021 backcountry skiing in Huntington Ravine in the Mount Washington area. In this episode, Taylor reflects on what he learned and how he moved through the challenging recovery. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy and supported by the American Alpine Club. To sign up for the Arc'teryx Climbing Academy: https://squamish.arcteryxacademy.com/ Sign up to win a pair of Rocky Talkie Mountain Radios at www.thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing on May 15th. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

The American Alpine Club is bringing its renowned Craggin' Classic climbing festival to Bentonville, Arkansas from May 10-12, 2024. This multi-day event offers climbing workshops, gear exhibitions, camping, and a stewardship day at local crag Lake Lincoln.   Climbers of all levels can learn new skills, explore Northwest Arkansas' urban and rural climbing areas, meet fellow enthusiasts, and give back through trail projects. Don't miss this rare chance to experience Bentonville's emerging climbing scene at the Ozark Craggin' Classic. Listen now!  You can listen to this podcast on Apple Podcasts, Overcast, Spotify, CastBox, Podcast Casts, Google Podcasts, iHeartRadio, and Podcast Addict.   Don't forget, Visit Bentonville is here to assist you in finding things to do, where to eat and stay, and find out what's going on in the city. Visit our website visitbentonville.com and subscribe to our enewsletter here. Follow us on Facebook, Instagram, TikTok, Twitter, and LinkedIn.   

Taylor Rose is a twenty-four year old guy who loves the outdoors. He was out skiing in the backcountry with some friends in Huntington Ravine on Mount Washington in 2021 when he suffered a broken femur from a long sliding fall that resulted in a rescue involving his crew and the Mount Washington Avalanche Center. Tune in to hear part one of this series. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

It's a tale old as time: Narrative is the vehicle that connects us to something greater. And for Christian Beckwith, he's built a career on that foundation.You probably know of Christian, or have interacted with his work. He's spent more than thirty years immersed in the world of alpinism, and in that time he was the editor of The American Alpine Journal, co-founded Alpinist — which Reinhold Messner once called “the greatest climbing magazine in the world” — and recently started a “hardcore history” podcast about the 10th Mountain Division called Ninety-Pound Rucksack.If you haven't heard of it, you might be living under the rock… but since you're listening to a climbing podcast, that very well may be the case. Regardless, it's great and I encourage you to give it a listen.In this episode, we don't talk much about the podcast, instead, we hone in on:How to complicate seemingly simple projects by going deepClues to find the narrative in anything you doWhat can happen when you follow your curiosity Timestamps:05:18 - From New England to the Tetons14:45 - Building community through climbing22:38 - Narrative as a tool for connection and change27:25 - Exploring the awe 34:20 - Diving into the contribution of climbers on the 10th Mountain Division42:28 - How history is written47:56 - Climbing Riva Ridge to understand history Resources and links:To listen to Ninety-Pound Rucksack, head to your favorite podcast platform or learn more about it at christianbeckwith.com. If you love what Christian is doing and want to support longform narrative projects like this, I highly encourage you to become a patron at patreon.com/NinetyPoundRucksack. Find the rest of the notes on the episode page. Credits:Episode cover photo provided by Christian.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Patreon:That's it for Season 1! If you enjoyed the conversations and want to help us do many more for Season 2, consider supporting us on Patreon.  (And for less than the price of a bougie beer per month). 

It's been a rough week. I hope you can smile while remembering Matt Primomo through listening to our interview from a few years ago. We lost another great human and avalanche professional last week- Nick Burks. A call to action of our community to reach out to The Avalanche Hour with stories of Nick that can be recorded and put together into a podcast episode. Email theavalanchehourpodcast@gmail.com to find out how to get involved. Music by Ketsa. https://ketsa.uk/ Go Fund Me for Stella and Milo: https://www.gofundme.com/f/supporting-stella-and-milo Resources for Grief and Support: Thanks to the help of Erin Good of Updraft Counseling for providing these descriptions. Responder Alliance - works to build awareness of stress injury and increase resilience for folks who work in austere environments. Please note they are largely focused on prevention, however many of the resources and tools are very applicable and provide a good foundation for having conversations around stress and trauma. https://www.responderalliance.com/ Climbing Grief Fund, American Alpine Club - CGF hosts a therapist directory and offers individual grants of up to $600 to individuals who have experienced grief or trauma related to climbing, alpinism, or ski mountaineering. You do not have to be a member of the American Alpine Club to apply for a CGF grant. https://americanalpineclub.org/grieffund American Avalanche Association - The A3 Avalanche Resilience Project also hosts a therapist directory with folks who have familiarity with the industry. A3 also offers a "resilience grant" of up to $500 to Professional and Affiliate members who are interested in pursuing therapy. https://www.americanavalancheassociation.org/resilience-project Survivors of Outdoor Adventures and Recovery (SOAR) - SOAR offers professionally-facilitated peer support groups for folks who have experienced loss or trauma in the outdoors. I just attended one of their community connection workshops on grief and trauma and found it very helpful. Get in touch with this wonderful organization! http://soar4life.org/ Mountain Muskox - For our northern friends, Mountain Muskox is a fantastic organization that offers professionally-facilitated in person peer support circles in BC and Alberta. They also offer a weekend gathering each fall. https://www.mountainmuskox.com/ The Redside Foundation - Redside provides funding for guides who are in need of medical or mental health care. They do not provide counseling directly, but rather they will pay for up to eight therapy sessions for guides in need. While they focus on individuals who live in Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming. If you don't live in one of these states, don't let it stop you from getting in touch. They will help! https://www.redsidefoundation.org/ Bigger Than The Trail - BTTT is an organization that uses trail running as a platform to talk about mental health. They also offer scholarships to folks who experience financial barriers to individual therapy. BTTT will pay for up to eight therapy sessions, however please note they do not have a directory - they work with existing platforms such as BetterHelp or Calmerry, so the therapist may or may not have a familiarity with outdoor / backcountry pursuits. Still, it is a great option for someone who needs support. https://www.bttt.run/support

To kick off this special collaborative podcast project, we've got a conversation with two undeniable pillars of the adaptive climbing community, Ronnie Dickson, and Maureen, better known as Mo, Beck. We're talking about the annual Adaptive Climbers Festival. The festival was started by a whole rowdy crew of climbers and allies -- Ronnie and Mo being two of them.    Ronnie is based out of Chattanooga and leads the group, Prosthetic and Orthotic Associates of Tennessee specializing in custom prosthetics. He was also the first American above the knee amputee to send a V10 and climb 5.13c.    Mo has served as an athlete ambassador or representative for organizations including with the American Alpine Club, USA Climbing, and Paradox Sports. She was also named National Geographic's "Adventurer of the Year" in 2019.   Host, Emily Chen-Newton produced a documentary style segment about the Adaptive Climbers Festival in 2023 for the show, Inside Appalachia. You can listen here. 

Devin Farkas was instructing a ten day climbing course in Joshua Tree National Park this last January. They were on day two of this ten day course when Devin's trip was cut short. Tune into this episode to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

For all of his expeditions and cutting-edge climbs around the world, Graham Zimmerman's story is one of balancing adventure and exploration with social responsibility and an examined life. His book, A Fine Line: Searching for Balance Among Mountains demonstrates that, and also serves as an ode to the friends and mentors he's lost to the mountains. Zimmerman became a professional climber at 24 years old. Now 37, Zimmerman is accomplished well beyond his years. He has made first ascents from Alaska to Pakistan, and in 2020 he received a Piolet d'Or for his climb on Pakistan's Link Sar with Steve Swenson, Mark Richey and Chris Wright. He's currently the Board President at the American Alpine Club and works for Protect Our Winters.  In this episode, Zimmerman speaks to the need for systemic change when it comes to climate and social issues, and how climbers see those challenges through a unique lens. He reflects on his love for the mountains, and the sense of release and joy they provide him with. Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from the American Alpine Club. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Graham Zimmerman Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn

Jack is a legend in the climbing world, a man I looked up to when I started climbing and still do today. His obsession with the Alaska Range produced first ascents of the Isis Face on Denali, the Diamond Arête on Mount Hunter, the Viper Ridge on Mount Foraker, and Mount Barille's Cobra Pillar, he made the first ascent of the Elevator Shaft on Mount Johnson, the north face of Thunder Mountain, and several new routes on the Mount Huntington massif. Shifting attention to the Yukon, he made the first ascent of "Arctic Discipline" on the north face of Mount Kennedy with Jack Roberts. He has traveled all over the world to climb, making expeditions to Mount Siguniang (China), Everest, the Biafo Spires, Uzam Braak and the Ogre in Pakistan, as well as the Cordilleras Blanca and Huayhuash in Peru, and finally Kashmir, in India. He received the American Alpine Club's coveted Underhill Award for climbing achievement (1999), the Italian Alpine Club award, “Genziana Giovanne” (1999), and the Sowles Award from the American Alpine Club. "conferred from time to time on mountaineers who have distinguished themselves, with unselfish devotion at personal risk or sacrifice of a major objective, in going to the assistance of fellow climbers imperiled in the mountains," in 2003.We recorded this conversation in October of 2022 but because we had spoken for over three and a half hours I was reluctant to undertake the editing. I started editing just before his 70th birthday but that came and went before I could finish it.The conversation started tentatively as we tried to find the entry point, discussing how and where we met (in 1986), the original carbon-fiber ice tool I'd been given by Grivel the year before that I then gave to Jack, which he returned to me in 2001, and that leads him the story of nearly being killed on the north face of Mount Augusta in 2002. The rescue that ensued is quite incredible—involving the US Air Force operating over the border in Canada—the details of which Jack shares in a very sobering and thoughtful way.Augusta is in the St Elias range, which is twice as large as Switzerland, and the tallest peak, Mount Logan, is the largest massif (described as base circumference) that is above water in the world. On average 110 skiers and climbers visit the area annually (contrasted with 1200 on Denali) and 90% of those attempt Logan, so on any other peak in the range one is quite likely to be alone in one of the vastest wilderness regions on the planet.Further along we discuss the importance of preserving climbing history and the American Alpine Club's work to record interviews and document events with the Legacy Series of short films. This leads to some talk about the resource itself—rock crags and cliffs as well as the higher peaks—and how our use permanently affects not simply the surfaces (heavily polished Italian limestone in Finale Ligura is one example) but also the surrounding environment. When Jack went to Everest in 1983 there had only been four prior American expeditions to that mountain and there were four US teams on Everest that very year, and the mountain had not yet been guided. Contrast that to 2021 when 145 people summited K2 in a single day and there likely had not been more than 100 climbers who had stood on top prior to that day; guiding, fixed ropes and camps, supplemental oxygen, and significant Sherpa support for the clients have all had a dramatic impact on the craft of climbing and upon the mountains themselves.This tangent led us to a distinction between someone who wants to do the climbing and someone who wants to be regarded as a climber, and Jack is most certainly one of the former.The Mount Augusta story.

Lauren Delaunay Miller is an award-winning author, journalist and audio producer based in Bishop, California. Her first book, Valley of Giants: Stories from Women at the Heart of Yosemite Climbing, was published in the spring of 2022 by Mountaineers Books, and won the Banff Mountain Book Competition for Climbing Literature.  Growing up on the East Coast, Miller says she wasn't initially an outdoorsy person. But she was inspired to start climbing while at college in North Carolina—after seeing a photo of Alex Honnold climbing Yosemite's Half Dome on the cover of National Geographic. She recalls that, at the time, she didn't even know how to pronounce “Yosemite.”  Since then, Miller has spent many days on Yosemite's climbing walls. In this episode, Miller talks about the power of using the mountains and climbing as a vehicle to tackle stories around larger issues in society. She speaks to her love of climbing, and how it allows her to connect with people and explore human stories, communities and relationships.  Support for this episode of the Alpinist Podcast comes from the American Alpine Club. Alpinist Magazine: Website | Instagram | Facebook Host: Abbey Collins Guest: Lauren DeLaunay Miller Producer + Engineer: Mike Horn

On Fourth of July weekend, two climbing partners, Grant and David, set out to climb a 2,200 foot climb on the Northwest face of Half Dome in Yosemite National Park in California. The conditions were perfect to climb this beautiful and exposed twenty-three pitch climb. Things started out perfectly, but not everything turned out as they had planned. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

What goes into projecting first free ascent winter lines in New Hampshire?That's the subject of today's chat with Jon Nicolodi, a humble MBA student and hard mixed climbing hard man. (Those are my words, he certainly would not describe himself that way.)Surprisingly, Jon's only been mixed climbing a few years but has established some big winter FFAs in that time — the routes range from M8 to M11 and all are on some of the most prominent walls in the state. These include, “Across the Great Divide” (M8 R, 5 pitches, 550′) on Cannon Cliff, “The Resistance” (M10, 5 pitches, 360′) on Mount Washington, and “Cathedral Direct” (5.12b M11 WI5, 7 pitches).In an Alpinist recap describing a few of the climbs, Rick Wilcox, one of the most accomplished mountaineers in the area and a trailblazing climber in his own right, described what Jon is doing as “state-of-the-art as far as difficulty goes” for New England. Listen on to hear about Jon's search for balance, how he trains, and get a great play-by-play of “Cathedral Direct Direct”, a 7-pitch, 5.12b, M11, WI5 route he freed with Chris Saulnier in February of last year.  Resources and links:If you'd like to hire Jon, you can connect with him at @jon_nicolodi on Instagram. Here are a few articles that highlight Jon's other climbs, which we didn't get to in this episode:Alpinist recap of "Across the Great Divide" and "The Resistance"Jon's American Alpine Club write up of "Across the Great Divide"Jon's IG post about "Cathedral Direct Direct"Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Erik Howes.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:A big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

I've been dry-tooling more than ice climbing this winter, largely because it's been frustratingly warm in New England. Call this my adaptation strategy — but really, I feel like I'm just getting ahead of the curve since trigger alert: dry-tooling is the future of ice climbing. #provemewrong(please)Not to be all dire, dour and doom and gloom, but globally, climate change is leading to fewer days below 0°C, aka, the planet is warming. (according to an Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change report from 2021). Since ice forms below the freezing temp of water, it's not hard to see that the result will be fewer climbable days of ice as a result.So what's an ice climber to do?Today, we chat with Taylor Luneau, an ice climber from Vermont, former Policy Director of the American Alpine Club, and current Conservation Manager at The Wilderness Society. Taylor has spent the bulk of his adult working life in conservation efforts, protecting public land, and now, supporting climate change mitigation strategies through forest management policies.During his time at the AAC, Taylor commissioned a first-of-its-kind study evaluating ice season length for one of the premiere ice climbing destinations in the U.S. — the Mount Washington Valley in New Hampshire. You might have seem the film that came out of this, freeze//thaw, which shares the scientific findings and socioeconomic impact on guides in the area. Definitely worth watching.We talk about the study, how climbers can get involved in responding to climate change, along with mitigation and adaptation strategies in today's episode. Resources and links:If you'd like to connect with Taylor, his Instagram is @taylor.luneau, and his Wilderness Society email is tluneau@tws.org. To learn more about the Mount Washington Valley study, here is the webpage that has “freeze//thaw”, an article by Jimmy Voorhis and Micheal Wejchert, and the full study by Voorhis, McDowell, and Burakowski, et al.The impact of our national forests to mitigate climate change:“Forests in the U.S. remove the equivalent of about 12 percent of annual U.S. fossil fuel emissions or about 206 teragrams of carbon, after accounting for natural emissions, such as wildfire and decomposition. Worldwide, healthy forests absorb 1.1 billion metric tons of carbon per year, the same contained in nearly 54 million tanker trucks worth of gasoline. Biologically rich, continuous networks of public lands play an important role in absorbing climate-changing emissions, sustaining plants and animals, and helping the hardest hit communities adapt to the impacts of a changing climate." SourceNationwide forest plan amendment to conserve old growth: Remember that the scoping period runs through February 2nd. Here are some resources to learn more and get involved:TWS Action Alert on the national amendment to all forest plans to conserve old growthTWS blog explaining what it isFederal Register scoping notice for the national amendment to all forest plans to conserve old growthUSDA Press Release on National Old Growth AmendmentNorthwest Forest Plan (NWFP) Amendment:The comment period wraps up on January 29th. Here are more resources and how to comment:TWS Action Alert on the NWFPTWS Blog explaining what the NWFP is and what's happeningUS Forest Service landing page for NWFP amendmentUSFS comment portal for the NWFP: hereMake sure to get your voice heard!Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Marcus Garcia.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Of course, a big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Kendra Stritch made history by becoming the first American to win a UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup medal in December of 2014 — when she took gold on the speed wall in Bozeman, Montana.Since then, Kendra has been a major force in developing dry-tooling and competitive ice climbing in the U.S.: She helped to formalize USA Ice Climbing under the auspices of the American Alpine Club, has organized countless comps around the country, and even was the first importer of speed tools in North America.A competitive athlete since she was 9, Kendra is drawn to the novelty and strategy of new sports ranging from alley cat bike racing to log rolling to kickball. She equally enjoys the camaraderie of fellow competitors, and refers to the ice climbing scene as her World Cup family. Over the past few years, Team USA has been steadily improving on the world stage — in no small part due to dedicated dry-tooling gyms across the country — and Kendra has played a vital role in getting the sport to where it is. We'll talk about the hows and whys in today's episode. Resources and links:If you'd like to bring a dry-tooling comp to your university or local gym, consider hiring Kendra. You can connect with her on Instagram @kendrastritch. To follow along with USA Ice Climbing this World Cup season, their IG handle is @usaiceclimbing_ and their website is usaiceclimbing.org. If you're feeling generous and would like to donate to the team (since the athletes have to pay their own way to events) you can find a donate link on the American Alpine Club.For a fascinating look at how far USA Ice Climbing has come, Corey Buhay, a former national team member, has a great article in Climbing from 2021.Find the rest of the notes, timestamps, resources, and more on the episode page.  Credits:Episode cover photo by Scott Thompson.Intro music by Hannah Noelle Enomoto (thanks, sis!). Sponsors:Big thanks to our sponsor, Blue Ice, for supporting this show!Blue Ice is the best kind of ice, and also my choice when it comes to fast and light ice climbing gear. Their Aero Lites go in like a hot knife through butter and their climbing packs hit the sweet spot between function and lightweight. Designed to get to the point in the alpine, their gear is tested by mountain professionals between the Alps and the Wasatch. If you're looking to get to the point too — and with a little less weight on your kit, check out Blue Ice's gear at blueice.com or your favorite local retailer. Patreon:For the price of a beer per month, you can help us produce episodes like this and much, much more. If you've been enjoying the podcast this season, consider supporting us on Patreon. 

Andrew Clements was climbing in Indian Creek on October 18, 2023 with a couple of climbers he had met in the parking lot the same day. He was on a route called Gorilla, which is rated 5.10b, which was his 3rd route of the day. He was standing about 2 feet above his last piece of gear when he fell. Drew injured his hand and both of his heels. Tune into this episode to hear more. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and then American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

For our final episode of the 2023 season, we're heading to Kishtwar in northern India, an area of very dramatic granite peaks, most of which have only been climbed by one or two routes. One of these mountains is White Sapphire, a peak of 6,040 meters or just under 20,000 feet, that had only been climbed twice. Pete Takeda, the interviewer for this episode, had shared photos of an unclimbed big wall on White Sapphire with a young friend named Christian Black. In time, Christian recruited his friends Hayden Wyatt and Vitaliy Musiyenko as partners. They won a grant from the American Alpine Club, and in September they all headed to India. Two of the three climbers had never been to the Himalaya, and this interview captures their wide-eyed enthusiasm, as well as their ability to go with the flow—a critical element for success in the Greater Ranges. And success they had, with a challenging new route up White Sapphire from the north: Brilliant Blue (850m, AI3, 80°, M7+). The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com), with additional support from Blue Ice and Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

This week Clint and Dawson sit down with Jim Donini. It is only fitting that we caught up with Jim in who knows where, packing for another climbing trip. Our recording is a bit gritty but fitting for our guest. Jim has been setting new free-climbing standards in Yosemite Valley in the early seventies, Jim Donini's career has continued by pioneering hard alpine climbing in Patagonia, Alaska, Karakoram Himalaya, China, Peru, Venezuela and Antarctica. A former Exum guide and a founder of American Mountain Guides Association, in 1999 Jim was awarded the prestigious Underhill Award by the American Alpine Club for outstanding mountaineering achievement. Jim served as President of the American Alpine Club from 2006 to 2009.Jim continues to seek out unclimbed peaks around his home in Patagonia and, at the age of 80, has an objective for this coming February that will remain secret for the time being. Notable cutting edge first ascents include Torre Egger (1976), Latok I (1978), and in Alaska The Diamond Arete, Mt. Hunter (1985), Cobra Pillar, Mt. Barille (1988), South Face, Mt. Bradley (1994) and “Shaken not Stirred”, an ice couloir on the Moose's Tooth, (1997) and in Patagonia, the north faces of Poincenot (1996), Cerro Pollone (1999), Avellano Tower (2008) and Cerro Chueco (2017). Thanks for listening! Find all our episodes at dayfirepodcast.com This podcast is powered by ZenCast.fm

Greg Morrissey is an educator, explorer, and founder of Mountain Goat Movement -- an organization that is dedicated to providing transformative adventures from the Adirondacks to Antarctica while connecting folks to inspiring explorers, mountain athletes, and storytellers. He was a teacher for over a decade and would take his students on adventures every break. After seeing the need for more young people to have life-changing adventures, he jumped in full-time and started the Mountain Goat Movement. He now guides trips throughout the year taking young people to the furthest reaches of our planet to instill in them the power of adventure and purpose. Most recently, Greg led a novel 390-mile expedition of the Hudson River, from source to sea, with a team of environmental scientists and students. The trip was an amazing achievement Greg is an avid member of the Explorers Club, Next Generation of Explorers, and the American Alpine Club -- he has offered inspiring adventure talks across schools, brands, and is a highly-sought public speaker. Learn more about Greg and Mountain Goat Movement:https://www.mountaingoatmovement.comhttps://www.instagram.com/mountaingoatmovement/?hl=enhttps://www.instagram.com/greg_morrissey_/?hl=enOur Sponsors:* Check out Green Chef and use my code asp250 for a great deal: https://www.greenchef.com/asp250* Check out Oris Watches: https://www.oris.ch* Check out Roark and use my code ASP15 for a great deal: https://roark.com/* Check out Shopify and use my code asp for a great deal: https://www.shopify.com/aspSupport this podcast at — https://redcircle.com/adventure-sports-podcast/donationsAdvertising Inquiries: https://redcircle.com/brandsPrivacy & Opt-Out: https://redcircle.com/privacy

On October 12, climbers Matt Cornell, Jackson Marvell and Alan Rousseau summited 7,710-meter Jannu, or Khumbakarna, by a new route up the north face, climbed in alpine style. Jannu's main north face had only been climbed once, in 2004, by a 12-man Russian team that spent nearly two months on the face and fixed over 10,000 feet of rope. The American trio carried a single lead rope and took only a modest rack and no bolt kit. Their route, Round Trip Ticket, was climbed and descended in one week. Years of preparation and innovation went into this remarkable ascent, and in this episode of the Cutting Edge, we're fortunate to hear all three climbers telling the story. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

In May of 2023, Allen and Samuel were out skiing Mt. Baker, a 10,781 foot active glacier-covered stratovolcano in the North Cascades of Washington when they came upon another skier who fell 35 feet down inside a crevasse after the snow bridge he was standing on collapsed. With their knowledge of rope skills and crevasse rescue, they sprung into action to rescue the stuck skier. Tune in to this episode to hear all of the details. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie, Minus33 and Protekt and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 15% off Minus33 garments in December with code SHARPEND → Up to 30% off Hydration & Energy Bundle. Includes each of each best-selling flavors of Hydration & Energy at protekt.com/sharpend → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In April of 2023, Michael Habicht headed over to Nepal to climb the striking 6,812 meter tall mountain, Ama Dablam. As a solo climber, he was met with some unique challenges and learned a ton from his expedition. After Michael got back from this trip he made the decision not to climb 8,000 meter peaks because of the experience he shares on this episode. His reasoning has nothing to do with his technical skills, but you'll have to tune in to hear why. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

This episode is all about Tirich Mir in Pakistan's High Hindu Kush. This past summer, two Japanese climbers completed an ascent of the secretive north face of this 7,708-meter mountain—an isolated wall that probably had never been attempted before. For the last decade, Kazuya Hiraide and Kenro Nakajima have formed one of the most successful partnerships in the world for lightweight, alpine-style new routes on high 7,000-meter peaks. Kazuya had dreamed of climbing Tirich Mir for more than 20 years, and the route they pieced together was a creative and committing solution to a very complex mountaineering problem. We'll also hear about their next goal: an audacious attempt on an alpine-style ascent of K2's west face. To introduce Tirich Mir and its long history, we spoke with AAJ senior editor Lindsay Griffin, an expert in the climbing history of the Greater Ranges. Among other things, we learn why a member of the first ascent party carried a huge rock to the summit! The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is hosted and produced by AAJ editor Dougald MacDonald and is published by the American Alpine Club.

Sarah McNair-Landry and Erik Boomer only started climbing a few years ago, and their technical level maxes out around 5.11. Yet their extended, multi-sport expeditions all over Baffin Island are without a doubt cutting edge. This year, they made three separate trips: one for climbing, skiing, and kiting on Baffin Island's remote east coast; one to explore a new zone of beautiful walls near Baffin's southern tip; and a third to fulfill the dream that got them into climbing in the first place: climbing the mighty peak of Mt. Asgard. (They climbed it twice.) Chris Kalman spoke with Sarah and Erik about this year's adventures and about their unique and enviable role in the modern exploration of Baffin Island. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Blue Ice and Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is hosted and produced by Dougald MacDonald, editor of the American Alpine Journal, and is published by the American Alpine Club.

Duane Swanson was rope soloing and found himself in a situation where he got stuck on the rock wall without food or water for nine hours and then had to figure out how to descend… by himself. Tune in to this episode to hear what rope soloing is and how he managed to self rescue. Other articles on Rope Soloing mentioned in the episode include: https://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/skills/series/pete_whittaker/how_to_rope_solo_-_with_pete_whittaker-11160 https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/rope-solo-rock-climbing-how-to This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Instagram: the_sharp_end_podcast YouTube: @thesharpendpodcast Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

This summer, Matt Segal recruited his old friend Jesse Huey and an alpine newbie, Jordan Cannon, for an attempt on Trango Tower in Pakistan. And not just by any route: Segal dreamed of free climbing the unrepeated Cowboy Direct, first climbed way back in 1995. The El Cap–size wall route goes at 5.13a and summits at over 20,000 feet. The trio made a powerful combo: Matt, a solid 5.14 climber; Jesse, an all-around master; and Jordan, a big-wall free climbing ace. In this interview, led by Chris Kalman, the three climbers describe their 15-day final push on the route, the superb partnership they formed, and how they overcame obstacles of poor weather, lack of food, and surprisingly difficult alpine climbing near the summit to succeed with the second ascent of this legendary climb. The Cutting Edge podcast is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker (hilleberg.com), with additional support from Bivouac Coffee and Blue Ice. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

Myriam Bouchard and her partner were at the City of Rocks having an amazing climbing trip. They were on a 5.8 climb called ‘Twist and Crawl' and when her partner was at the anchor, he told her that he was ready to be lowered. She began lowering him when all of a sudden, the rope slipped through the belay device and he fell 20 feet down to the ground. Listen to hear the entire story and how she explains experiencing, “the greatest terror of her life.” This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In July 2023, four climbers from New England—Will Carey, Taki Miyamoto, Ray Rice, and Mark Richey—completed what just might be the longest pure rock climb in Africa. Their 800-meter route climbs straight up the middle of the upper face of Chambe, a huge granite monolith in Malawi. For this episode, AAJ assistant editor Michael Levy (who climbed on Chambe himself for several weeks in July 2022) spoke with Will and Mark about their adventures. Although both climbers have done many new routes (Mark is a two-time Piolets d'Or winner for his first ascents in the Karakoram), ground-up bolting a huge, exotic rock face was an entirely new experience. The Cutting Edge is presented by Hilleberg the Tentmaker, with additional support from Bivouac Coffee. This podcast is produced by the American Alpine Club.

When Aubrey Runyon first climbed in Colorado's Eldorado Canyon State Park, it was for fun. When she returned several years later, Aubrey was needing a place to call home. Over the years, her relationship with Eldo has weaved between recreation and survival, and eventually healing and love. When Aubrey faced a new big challenge, she leaned on Eldo for strength by way of a big goal– to reach 10,000 pitches in the park.  American Alpine Club's Climbing Grief Fund Support comes from Patagonia AG1 Kuat Racks Aura Frames  Want more episodes? Join Dirtbag Diaries+ today Got a Tale of Terror? Submit it now!

BASE jumping accidents are rarely talked about and I've always wondered why. Last month, Derek reached out to me to share his story regarding a BASE jumping accident that he was involved in and I was eager to hear it. He was jumping with three of his good military friends on October 25, 2014 when his lines got twisted very shortly after he jumped off the Roan Plateau in Rifle, Colorado. It was one of the last jumps of the season before weather rolled in and winter began to start. Hear all about his accident, his evacuation and how he's changing the way the BASE jumping culture looks at accidents within the sport. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. Make sure to vote for the most inspiring rescue of the year at RockyTalkie.com/2023SARaward. Voting closes August 11th at midnight. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 → 10% off any wilderness medicine course with Desert Mountain Medicine using code SHARPEND Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

In July of 2022, one year ago, just last summer, Bryce and James took a climbing trip to the Cirque of the Towers in the Wind River Range in Wyoming. They planned on climbing the Cirque of the Towers traverse. First, they started out up the South Buttress of Pingora and had a beautiful time on the route. At the top of the climb, that's when they would start the traverse over to Tiger Tower and then over to Wolf's Head. All was going just as planned until weather moved in… and weather moved in FAST. Tune in to this episode to hear what happened. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. Jame's book suggested about decision heuristics: "Thinking, Fast and Slow" by Daniel Kahneman --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd
 -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND 
--> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast
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On July 30, 2022, Austin suffered a heat illness that could have cost him his life. He was climbing on the Olympic Peninsula with two of his friends. They set out to climb ‘The Brothers,' which are the two highest mountains in that range that you can see from miles and miles away. Due to his heat illness, he ultimately pressed the SOS button to get rescued. Listen to this episode to hear what happened during this specific event and how this event led him to finding out he actually had undiagnosed thyroid cancer that was growing for years. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

I recently interviewed Christian Beckwith who is (among many additional pursuits) the founder of The Teton Climbers' Coalition, co-founder of the Alpinist Magazine, founder of the non-profit SHIFT, a skilled alpinist, and most recently, creator and host of the podcast, Ninety-Pound Rucksack. Ninety-Pound Rucksack is a podcast dedicated to retracing the journey of America's original mountain warriors, the 10th Mountain Division. I am so stoked to share this special bonus episode with all of my listeners! A video version of the interview is available on YouTube. Learn more about Christian and his podcast via the link in my bio or wherever you get your podcast fix. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This episode is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd  --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND --> 10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com #thesharpendpodcast #playhardandbesmart

Last spring in May of 2002, Matt Randall took a 1,000 foot fall from the top of South Maroon Bell, one that he undoubtedly shouldn't have survived. He was solo ski mountaineering just outside of Aspen Colorado and Matt somehow got lucky and walked away with zero injuries and one broken ski. He wants to share his experience because he believes it would be beneficial for others to hear since he's convinced there are lots of other people out there with similar human traits. Listen to this episode to hear how someone can survive that long of a fall, and what he learned from his mistake. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and the American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. --> 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd --> 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND -->10% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND --> 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

On June 3, 2020, two good friends, Kat and Amy, set out to climb the North Twin Sister in the North Cascades in Washington State. They initially had a beautiful weather window so they went for it. They were having a great time when the weather started to move in, visibility got low and they decided to turn around. On the descent, Amy accidentally dislodged a microwave sized rock that tumbled down hitting Kat, shattering most of her hand and breaking through her radius and ulna. Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what they both learned, how they got rescued and the impacts this had on their friendship. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! Voucher is transferable. Expires December 31, 2024. Sign up at thesharpendpodcast.com. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com

Gabs was coming down the Athabasca Glacier after spending nine days winter camping up on the Columbia Ice-Fields. Her crew had just re-supplied two days prior with another ten days worth of food/fuel, and soon after, her ski went parallel to a narrow crevasse and her pulk (a snow sled she was towing behind her) lined up with her body. She then broke through a snow bridge, falling ten meters down into the icy, freezing cold crevasse! Listen into this episode to hear what happened, what she learned, and how she got out of the crevasse. This podcast is produced by Ashley Saupe. This podcast is sponsored by Rocky Talkie and The American Alpine Institute and supported by the American Alpine Club. → 10% off Rocky Talkie radios at RockyTalkie.com/SharpEnd → Sign up to win a $1,000 tuition voucher for any public group course! This voucher is transferable and expires December 31, 2024. To sign up, visit my website at www.thesharpendpodcast.com and enter the giveaway right on the homepage. Drawing is May 15th. → 15% off Sterling Rope with code SHARPEND → 15% off Swoop garments with code SHARPEND → 20% off First Aid contents at MyMedic.com with code SHARPEND20 Become a Patreon: patreon.com/thesharpendpodcast Visit my website: www.thesharpendpodcast.com