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Matt Warshaw grew up surfing in Los Angeles at a time when surf and skate culture were beginning to meet in Venice Beach and Santa Monica. After a stint as a pro surfer in the 1980s, Warshaw became the editor of Surfer magazine. In 1990, he left his editor's post at Surfer to attend UC Berkeley, where he got his BA in History in 1993. He remained in the Bay Area, parking himself in an apartment in the Sunset District and in countless Ocean Beach barrels. As if personally expanded by all those tubes, Warshaw's writing expanded into lengthy essays, profiles, and books—many books—among them Maverick's: The Story of Big-Wave Surfing, Above The Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews, Photo/Stoner, Surfriders: In Search of the Perfect Wave, Surf Movie Tonite! Surf Movie Poster Art, 1957-2005, and more. His Encyclopedia of Surfing, first released in 2003, is the most comprehensive tome of surf culture in existence, and he followed it up with 2010's The History of Surfing, a beast of a book that makes music of Warshaw's encyclopedic knowledge. His most recent venture is the EOS dot surf, which is an invaluable online resource for surf obsessives, and features the “Sunday Joint,” a reflective op-ed style email that Matt shoots out to subscribers every Sunday. In this episode of Soundings, Warshaw talks with Jamie Brisick about the golden days of Los Angeles, establishing a career as a historian, the value of exploring someone else's world, the importance of preserving history, the challenge of creating a database, his first Jeff Ho board, the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and the art of writing economically.
In today's show surfing's foremost historian reveals the pro surfer who saved his life at age 12, the gift of finding 50 year old surf footage from his youth, the unsung heroes lost to surf history, how history is shaped by those who elect to share it, and why is more important than ever to cement archiving surf history. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This week on KookCast, we're happy to have Matt Warshaw back on the show. The premier historian and archivist of surfing, the value of this man's work isn't lost on us, and it shouldn't be lost on you either! Subscribe to the Encyclopedia of Surfing and consider making a donation to make help make sure Matt continues his good work. Here's a link to The New Yorker article we discuss at the beginning of the episode: "Can't Tell an A-frame from a Poo Stance? Try the Encyclopedia of Surfing"
Surfing's preeminent historian returns so that David can attempt to write Warshaw's EOS entry. Herein Warshaw recounts the first time being punched in the face, donning Edward Norton's wetsuit, analyzes which prejudice is unjustly credited to surf history, and explains how a recent life altering diagnosis changed his perspective on this relationship with surfing. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Warshaw is back to discuss how the thrill of surfing has been replaced by the thrill of archiving surf history, the single hippest surfer of all time, the next monumental undertaking for the EOS, and to recommend the one female surf icon that David should interview posthaste. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
In today's very special episode, Chas has his world rocked by (a very woke) Kevin Miller (worshiper of ELO), Hulet reveals his arrest record, Warshaw reveals his below-the-belt grooming habits, and DLS tries to prevent another table jump/strangulation. A raucous pod, live from Florida! Enjoy! (Originally published November 8, 2019) Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This Dropping In Surf Show episode features guest Matt Warshaw, surfing's masterful historian and creator of the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Matt and Rob discuss the role of science in the history of surfing, currently, and future speculations. They also dive into how science in surfing could work within surf culture, business, and sport. Support the Encyclopedia of Surfing: https://eos.surf/subscribe/ Watch the video of this episode at https://www.surfingpaddling.com/dropping-in-surf-show
The whole gang is together to reflect on 2021, make bold predictions for 2022 and hold one another accountable for their New Year's resolutions. Join David Scales, Devon Howard, Matt Warshaw, Chas Smith, Kevin Miller of the Florida Surf Film Festival, and the Breuer Brothers (Tyler and Jamie) of Hardcore Surf History in celebrating the new year. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Founder and operator of Encyclopedia of Surfing, Matt Warshaw, joins us for a catch up after the festival to chat about things other than Barry Kanaiaupuni's bottom turn. His fundraiser is in full swing, so if you'd like to support his mission, all of surf culture would appreciate it. Enjoy!
Original Z-Boy, part of the greatest surf team ever, Oxford English Dictionary consultant, and surfing's foremost historian Matt Warshaw joins us to watch Haleiwa, talk about the ultimate mic drop moment in surfing, and tell us about his recent dinner with Kelly Slater. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
The man behind the Encyclopedia of Surfing (https://eos.surf) joins Coach Chris for his second episode ever on KookCast to discuss the unique relationship surfers have with their surfboards compared to other athletes and their equipment, machine made surfboards, machine made waves, favorite surfers...the list goes on. Make sure you are a subscriber to the website of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, and consider donating to help Matt continue his important work of protecting, preserving, and presenting surf history and culture.
Recently returned from The Boardroom Show, Matt Warshaw joins us to discuss how boards are built, their evolution and construction, the shapers, the relationships and lore. We might be biting off more than we can chew with this one episode! And of course, there is always the grudge match of Stump My Bro. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
#103 No flutuar da prosa do Boia passar de 100 é virar o milênio, portanto no episódio 103 - versículo 2003 - Julio Adler, João Valente e Bruno Bocayuva pegam carona na garupa do jet ski com uma foto clássica do camarada Aleko Stergiou (de 2008!), revisitando a temporada mais flamejante na rivalidade histórica entre Kelly Slater e Andy Irons. Claro que os fatos e as análises escorreram para muito além de apenas um ano. Semana passada perdemos um personagem histórico e o Boia faz questão de apresenta-lo mesmo que tardiamente. Joe Quigg [1925 - 2021], surfista, artesão, projetista, construtor. Das mãos dele surgiram inovações que até hoje são relevantes na fabricação das nossas obsessões flutuantes. Para não restar duvida sobre a magnitude do Camarada, os boieiros recorreram a um trio pesado de pensadores do nosso universo liquido, os jornalistas, Sam George, Matt Warshaw e Derek Hynd. É impressionante como a leitura que temos das pessoas fala tanto sobre nós e nossas ideias. Nos trabalhos sonoros, a abertura foi com - Jon Lucien e a peróla, In Search For The Inner Self - e a saideira com os 50 anos de lançamento do clássico álbum, Blue, da Joni Mitchell, escolhemos a eterna canção, Califórnia. Almanaque Flutuante - 'Round Midnight, filme de Bertrand Tavernier (1986) --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/boia/message
SUPPORT Matt Warshaw joins David and Chas to plot the next phase of Project Ibelli before the boys spoil the winner of The Ultimate Surfer, review the WSL’s legal threat of Matt Biolos, and play a round of Barrel or Nah? ! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
SUPPORT Matt Warshaw joins David and Chas to plot the next phase of Project Ibelli before the boys spoil the winner of The Ultimate Surfer, review the WSL's legal threat of Matt Biolos, and play a round of Barrel or Nah? ! Enjoy!
Play a round of Spit! Surf Trivia! David fails miserably and Scott only knows because Matt Warshaw fed him the answers. How will you fare? The boys also survey Kelly's rehab, pontificate on Pat O's presidential ambitions, and adjust 'CT hypotheses based on an official quarantine survey. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
#79 Tivemos a participação do Matt Warshaw nesse episódio. Bastaria essa frase pra encerrar a descrição. Mas não, Bruno Bocayuva, João Valente e Júlio Adler aproveitam cada minuto do Boia esticando assuntos e conversas. Diniz Iozzi e Thomaz Crocco enriquecem o 79 com emoção e sugestão. Vamos de Orlando Silva e Corinne Bailey Rae para embalar seu sono. Boia resgata a temporada de 1981 e especula quantos títulos mundiais o Bananão poderia ter ganho se aquela geração extraordinária soubesse o que nós sabemos hoje. Seu podcast predileto chegou a tempo de lavar a louça do jantar. --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/boia/message
Matt Warshaw joins the Breuer brothers to discuss child phenoms of surfing; those who burned bright and then flamed out. Surfers who have lived under the microscope and fulfilled the prophecies and those who looked into their futures and renounced the path laid before them. Enjoy!
Matt Warshaw joins the Breuer brothers to discuss child phenoms of surfing; those who burned bright and then flamed out. Surfers who have lived under the microscope and fulfilled the prophecies and those who looked into their futures and renounced the path laid before them. Enjoy!
Surfing's very own and only surf historian gets on the horn with Coach Chris to have a casual chat about learning how to surf, The Encyclopedia of Surfing, life after surfing, and of course, his kook-iest moment. Now be a dear and donate to ensure we don't lose this invaluable resource: eos.surf/donate.
Matt Warshaw joins the show to discuss Vloggers' role in surf history then Chas and David discuss how outsourced manufacturing is affecting the US's largest board building hub, why the '21 'CT season finale lacks gravitas, and they blueprint an anti-depressive guide to surviving the holidays with family. Enjoy!
Matt Warshaw joins the show to discuss Vloggers' role in surf history then Chas and David discuss how outsourced manufacturing is affecting the US's largest board building hub, why the '21 'CT season finale lacks gravitas, and they blueprint an anti-depressive guide to surviving the holidays with family. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
On this episode, we talk about the recent demise, after 60 up and down and frequently glorious years, of SURFER—our sport's last real institution. The Breuer Brothers are joined by former editor Matt Warshaw as they reflect on the magazine's history and influence. And of course, another round of "Stump My Bro.” Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Todays guest is Tyler Breuer. Tyler is a Surfer from New York. He frequents the shores of Rock Away Beach and now recides in Brooklyn. Tyler is a certified Surf Nerd.. being able to refference even the up most obscure surf history. Growing up in and around surfing he has a high froth level and salt pumps through his veins....battling the cold and shitty conditions of New York's fickle coastline. Tyler has a great Surf Podcast Called "Swell Season" A Show that focuses on the surf scene in New York. Tyler has just announced a great partnership with surf media heavy weights Matt Warshaw and David Lee Scales. A new Podcast called "Sunday Joint" Based off of Matt Warshaw's Weekly news Letter he sends out on Sunday to all his subscribers of the website EOS (Encyclopedia of Surfing) In this new show...Tyler and his brother (Jamie) break down different topics from the "Sunday Joint News Letter" in an NPR Surf talk kind of way. With Matts rich content,Tyler and Jamies banter, and David Lee Scales Surf Splender Productions...you can't go wrong. It was great to meet up with Tyler for a chat thanks to the power of Instagram and Zoom. It was a pleasure to talk to Tyler about his life in surf and his exciting up and coming projects. Heres my conversation with Mr. Tyler Breuer! Music: Intro: Slow Roll-Tommy Guerrero Interlude: Dissonance-Strange Motel Outro: Parquet Courts-Stoned and Starving
At long last Matt Warshaw bestows an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast upon the world. The Breuer brothers (Swell Season) roll up Warshaw’s Sunday Joint and take a deep inhale of surfings, past, present, and future. Welcome to episode one. Enjoy. Follow @TheSundayJoint And be sure to subscribe in whatever podcast app use. CREDITS Host: Tyler … Continue reading "340 – Welcome to the Sunday Joint" The post 340 – Welcome to the Sunday Joint appeared first on Surf Splendor.
At long last Matt Warshaw bestows an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast upon the world. The Breuer brothers (Swell Season) roll up Warshaw's Sunday Joint and take a deep inhale of surfings, past, present, and future. Welcome to episode one. Enjoy. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
We really pleased to announce a new podcast that Tyler Breuer has been working on with Matt Warshaw of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, David Scales of Surf Splendor Podcasts and my brother Jamie It’s called the Sunday Joint. Think Car Talk meets Encyclopedia of Surf meets High Fidelity. A preview of the first episode is now streaming on WAX. On the premiere episode of the Sunday Joint with Tyler & Jamie Breuer, the boys dismantle, rearrange, and neatly place back on the shelf the 13 Biggest moments in Surf of the 21st century. Then it's on to the St. Christopher surf-themed medallion, which causes Tyler to question his fashion choices as a grommet, as he wore the medallion while also wearing Z-Cavariccis & a white turtleneck. The brothers finish off the episode with a round of "Stump my Bro!" Tyler asks Jamie one question related to Matt Warshaw's Sunday Joint newsletter. Jamies does the same to Tyler. Alcohol is involved. All this and more on the opening episode of the Sunday Joint, an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast. Distributed by The Surf Splendor.www.eos.surf
On the premiere episode of the Sunday Joint with Tyler & Jamie Breuer, the boys dismantle, rearrange, and neatly place back on the shelf the 13 Biggest moments in Surf of the 21st century. Then it's on to the St. Christopher surf-themed medallion, which causes Tyler to question his fashion choices as a grommet, as he wore the medallion while also wearing Z-Cavariccis & a white turtleneck. The brothers finish off the episode with a round of "Stump my Bro!" Tyler asks Jamie one question related to Matt Warshaw's Sunday Joint newsletter. Jamies does the same to Tyler. Alcohol is involved. All this and more on the opening episode of the Sunday Joint, an Encyclopedia of Surfing podcast. Distributed by Surf Splendor. Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Randy Rarick is the most interesting surfer alive. He co-founded the pro surf tour in 1976, ran the Triple Crown contest in Hawaii for over 30 years, has traveled to 170 countries and surfed in 70; being the first person to surf in several countries around the world. He’s been mentored by Duke Kahanamoku, shaped boards with Dick Brewer, and surfed big Waimea with Eddie Aikau. He has also shaped and restored over 12,000 surfboards and is more knowledgeable than any person alive on the history and evolution of the surfboard. This episode is a fascinating lesson on surf history, philosophy, travel, race, and empathy told through one front row seat story after another. If you're not a surfer, or just wanna nerd out more, here's some cool links and movies to fuel the stoke:Encyclopedia of Surfing - websiteWatch 110 year old black and white footage of surfing in Waikiki set to ragtime music, then see jet skis tow surfers into 60 ft waves to heavy metal. This is an insanely cool site full of articles, archival footage, vintage pics, and newspaper clips covering the history and movements of surfing over the past 100+ years. Thank you Matt Warshaw! Free for a week then $3/mo. https://eos.surfEOS Bio on Rarickhttps://eos.surf/entries/rarick-randy/Riding Giants Best surf doc ever. Amazing portrait of early days riding big waves on North Shore of Oahu. Tells story of Greg Noll’s ’69 wave at Makaha. Rent or buy on Amazon.https://amzn.to/32Q1B1QStep Into Liquid: Great surf doc to convey essence/stoke of surfing to non-surfer. Rent or buy on Amazon.https://amzn.to/3brhkrTEndless Summer 2: Original Endless Summer is the most famous surf film of all time; RR was location scout for part 2. Free on Youtube.http://bit.ly/endsum2Bustin’ Down The Door Talks about formation of pro surfing scene and clash between Aussies and locals in Hawaii and 70’s on North Shore of Oahu. Free with Amazon Prime.https://amzn.to/35fOha3Barbarian Days by William FinneganBest surfing book there is. Won Pulitzer Prize. You don’t need to surf to enjoy this. No other book, film, anything captures the essence of why we’re pulled back to the ocean and waves better than this.https://amzn.to/3gTfOAdAlso,Randy’s vintage surfboard auction in Hawaii:http://bit.ly/hisurfauctionGot feedback for the podcast? Guests or topics you’d love to hear? Let us know!Twitter.com/ignorantcuriousInstagram.com/ignorantcuriousignorantcuriouspod@gmail.com
Full episode and Show Notes - www.wearelookingsideways.com To call Matt Warshaw’s Encyclopaedia of Surfing a labour of love would be to do the entire project a grave injustice. As the name suggests, EoS is Matt’s ongoing, crowdfunded attempt to document the history of surfing and surf culture through the site of the same name. It’s an industry ‘lifer’ project par excellence. And a beautiful, Johnsonian venture that, in essence, will never be completed. But then, Matt’s entire career has been about voyaging deeper than anybody else into surf history; whether as a journalist, the author of weighty surf histories such as his History of Surfing, or now through the Encyclopaedia. With this project, surfing has found the perfect cultural and historical custodian. And Matt has found the perfect vehicle through which he can continue to explore his life’s passion. It’s the living embodiment of the 1000 True Fans theory of art and creativity, and in its Borgesian infinity there is something surreal yet completely creatively pure about the entire undertaking. I’ve been looking forward to speaking to Matt for years, and this encounter didn’t disappoint. Like a river slowly making its way across a floodplain, our conversation meandered in its own slow, purposeful way and I enjoyed it very much. Enjoying the podcast? Want to keep it free and ad-free? Donate here: https://bit.ly/LSBuyPint Thanks to Matt Ward for the theme tune, and to my editor Fina Charleson.
Sem perder nem uma semana, o episódio 35 do Bóia chega nos primeiros dias do ano de 2020. João Valente está de volta - de Dublin!- e junta-se a Bruno Bocayuva e Julio Adler num trio que faria Reco-reco, Bolão e Azeitona orgulhosos. Fizemos analogias com futebol para falar de como Brasil e Portugal revelam talentos para o mar e as quatro linhas. Qual o custo disso ? Revisamos, guiados pelo guardião da história Matt Warshaw, o ano que precedeu o nascimento do circuito mundial, 1975. Celebramos, uma vez mais, ainda outra conquista do Ítalo, surfista do ano pela revista australiana Stab, votado pelos mais importantes surfistas do planeta. É hora da Bóia. Compartilhem, comentem, avaliem e debatam o podcast como se fosse 2019... --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/boia/message
In December of 2015, a video appeared on the Internet that stunned surfers worldwide. Titled “Kelly’s Wave,” it showed Kelly Slater—arguably the best pro surfer in history—unveiling a secret project he had been working on for more than a decade. With the help of engineers and designers, Slater had perfected the first artificial wave, created by machine in a pool, that could rival the best waves found in the ocean. “One could spend years and years surfing in the ocean,” the staff writer William Finnegan, himself a lifelong surfer, notes, “and never get a wave as good as what some people are getting here today. Ever.” Finnegan went to visit the Kelly Slater Wave Company’s Surf Ranch—a facility in California’s Central Valley, far from the Coast—to observe a competition and test the wave for himself. (He wrote about the experience in The New Yorker.) Up until now, surfing was defined by its lack of predictability: chasing waves around the world and dealing with disappointment when they do not appear has been integral to the life of a surfer. But, with a mechanically produced, infinitely repeatable, world-class wave, surfing can become like any other sport. The professional World Surf League, which has bought a controlling interest in Slater’s company, sees a bright future. But Finnegan wonders what it means to take surfing out of nature. Will kids master riding artificial waves without even learning to swim in the ocean? Finnegan spoke with Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore (the Australian seven-time world champion), and Matt Warshaw (the closest thing surfing has to an official historian). Warshaw, like Finnegan, is skeptical about the advent of mechanical waves. Yet he admits that, when he had the chance to ride it, he didn’t ever want to stop. “It reminded me of 1986,” Warshaw recalls. “The drugs have run out, you already hate yourself—how do we get more?” This story originally aired December 14, 2018.
Chas Smith is a smart guy. Originally from California, he moved to Oregon and commenced his surfing career at age 10. He earned a bachelor’s degree in intercultural studies (1998) and a master’s degree in linguistics (2001) from Southern California’s Biola University; Smith’s studies included semesters spent studying Arabic in Egypt and English at Oxford University. That short bio is taken from Matt Warshaw's Encyclopedia of Surf, check it out: https://eos.surf/entries/smith-chas/ (https://eos.surf/entries/smith-chas/) Chas and I discuss a wealth of interesting subjects surrounding his life and wave pools. Here are some of my questions, listen up for his answers: Establishing personal context:Which surf media publications have you worked for. How was it? Can we dig DEEP into the story of Beach Grit. How did you involvement start, was it with a call from a friend and then an office meeting, or a few whiskies in a shady bar. You wrote a book about Hawaii. Have you ever returned to the North Shore afterwards? You were a war reporter? Have you seen your Wikipedia page or did you edit that yourself? Do you aspire to be William Finnegan, surfer and war reporter (author of Barbarian Days)? Artificial WavesLet's get into serious detail here: Chas Smith, Kelly Slater and a dislocated shoulder? What did you experience as you arrived at the gate of Kelly’s Surf Ranch before those wooden gates opened? Signing the NDA at Kelly's. What's the point of inviting press over and getting them to sign an NDA? I heard a rumour that you have a wild card for the reality TV series: The Ultimate Surfer. Is this true? Have you been to BSR? Planned a trip to Jersey? What's your take on Urbnsurf down under? Here's the deal, imagine some billionaire wires you 50m US for you to construct your dream wave park. Give me a helicopter tour. Would it be next to an airport like Urbnsurf, in a field with camping tents like Bristol, in a mall like Madrid is planned to be? What would your dream park be? What's the wave tech and why? The Future of Surfing The growth of surfing is like a double edged sword. On the one hand, you have more opportunities for people to work passionately in the space that they love, on the other hand you have more kooks polluting the breaks. How do you feel about the growth of surfing? How will wave pools play a role in that growth? A lot has been said about surfing's inclusion in the Olympics in 2020. What kind of real impact do you feel it will bring to the sport? Do you feel that Tokyo should be in a pool? If you achieve your hell bent mission on destroying the WSL, what will the BEACH GRIT LEAGUE look like? Would you employ Elo to do the content and Chris Coté to commentate?
In today's very special episode, Chas has his world rocked by (a very woke) Kevin Miller (worshiper of ELo), Hulet reveals his arrest record, Warshaw reveals his below-the-belt grooming habits, and DLS tries to prevent another table jump/strangulation. A raucous pod, live from the Florida Surf Film Festival! Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Father, husband, surf historian, Matt Warshaw chats about how to nurse the bruising of online commenters, the virtues of quitting surfing, pays tributes to surf’s little known stories, and he outlines a grander EOS. Enjoy! Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
... This episode is only available to SUPPORTERS. Become a SUPPORTER for $5 a month and enjoy access to our entire archive of shows ad-free, receive discounts on merch and be automatically entered into surfboard giveaways. Member support ensures that we can continue to document surf culture weekly and maintain an archive of podcasts for … Continue reading "295 – Matt Warshaw" The post 295 – Matt Warshaw appeared first on Surf Splendor.
How to video yourself surfing plus Surf Simply 2019 news including a new online coaching platform, volume to weight calculator now live, tree of knowledge live, return to Surf Ranch, e-foils, the Gamma, Lost, San Clemente and what to watch with special guests Matt Warshaw and Mark Augias, the creators of Encyclopedia Of Surfing 2.0.
On this week's Fretboard Journal Podcast, we celebrate the larger-than-life personality and music of Dick Dale, who passed away at the age of 81. We begin by talking to Matt Warshaw, surf historian and the author of the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Then we talk to frequent FJ contributor Jim Washburn about the time he spent with Dick Dale over the years. Lastly, we talk to John Page of John Page Guitars, who worked with Dick during his time at the Fender Custom Shop.
In today’s special episode, Chas and David welcome special guest Matt Warshaw to recap the 2019 Surf Expo. Highlights include Mark Cunningham bequeathing Matt Warshaw’s official nickname and one swift punch concludes (perhaps) the year long Ashton vs Chas blood feud. Enjoy! Special thanks to Surf Expo and the Florida Surf Film Festival And be … Continue reading "033 – The Grit! January 13, 2019" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
In December of 2015, a video appeared on the Internet that stunned surfers worldwide. Titled “Kelly’s Wave,” it showed Kelly Slater—arguably the best pro surfer in history—unveiling a secret project he had been working on for more than a decade. With the help of engineers and designers, Slater had perfected the first artificial wave, created by machine in a pool, that could rival the best waves found in the ocean. “One could spend years and years surfing in the ocean,” notes staff writer William Finnegan, himself a lifelong surfer, “and never get a wave as good as what some people are getting here today. Ever.” Finnegan went to visit the Kelly Slater Wave Company’s Surf Ranch—a facility in California’s Central Valley, far from the coast—to observe a competition and test the wave for himself. Up until now, surfing was defined by its lack of predictability: chasing waves around the world and dealing with disappointment when they do not appear has been integral to the life of a surfer. But with a mechanically produced, infinitely repeatable, world-class wave, surfing can become like any other sport. The professional World Surf League, which has bought a controlling interest in Slater’s company, sees a bright future. But Finnegan wonders what it means to take surfing out of nature. Will kids master riding artificial waves without even learning to swim in the ocean? Finnegan spoke with Kelly Slater, Stephanie Gilmore (the Australian seven-time world champion), and Matt Warshaw (the closest thing surfing has to an official historian). Warshaw, like Finnegan, is skeptical about the advent of mechanical waves. Yet he admits that, when he had the chance to ride it, he didn’t ever want to stop. “It reminded me of 1986,” Warshaw recalls. “The drugs have run out, you already hate yourself—how do we get more?” William Finnegan’s article “Kelly Slater’s Shock Wave” appeared this month in The New Yorker.
Chas Smith the author of Cocaine + Surfing and Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell (It Books, November 2013), which was optioned for television by Fox 21 (Homeland and Sons of Anarchy) with producers at Television 360 (Game of Thrones) and a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction. Chas began his writing career as a foreign correspondent, penning pieces for Vice, Paper, and Blackbook, amongst others, from Yemen, Lebanon, Syria, Somalia, Azerbaijan and Colombia which led to a brief career as a war correspondent for Current TV. After being kidnapped by Hezbollah during the 2006 Israel-Lebanon war he transitioned to surf journalism where he was a featured writer at the brash Stab before becoming Editor at Large at Surfing Magazine. There he developed a reputation as the most controversial voices in the space. Matt Warshaw, author of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, calls him, “Bright and hyper-ironic.” William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Barbarian Days, says that Chas, “…calls it like he sees it and in surfing that’s not usually the case.” Chas Smith is the co-owner of a surf website, BeachGrit. Kristin Casey is a writer and recovered alcoholic and addict. Her memoir Rock Monster, My Life with Joe Walsh documents their tumultuous six-year relationship and drug-fueled, train wreck breakup. She’s survived numerous addictions, clinical depression, a suicide attempt, the panhandle of Texas, and seventeen years of Catholicism. Her writing has appeared in the Foliate Oak Literary Magazine, The Fix, The Nervous Breakdown, From the Asylum, $pread, and elsewhere. She writes about addiction, dependency, sexuality, and relationships. She resides in Austin, Texas, and works in the field of sex therapy as an intimacy coach and IPSA trained surrogate partner.
Matt Warshaw and David Scales interview director Chas Smith about his new film “Trouble: The Lisa Andersen Story”. The boys discuss Lisa’s troubled youth, her ascent to surf stardom, her legacy, and the current state of the surf film landscape. This conversation was recorded at the Florida Surf Film Festival during the world premiere of … Continue reading "023 – The Grit! Trouble: The Lisa Andersen Story" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Chas Smith the author of Cocaine + Surfing and Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell (It Books, November 2013), which was optioned for television by Fox 21 (Homeland and Sons of Anarchy) with producers at Television 360 (Game of Thrones) and a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction. Chas began his writing career as a foreign correspondent, penning pieces for Vice, Paper, and Blackbook, amongst others, from Yemen, Lebanon, Syria, Somalia, Azerbaijan and Colombia which led to a brief career as a war correspondent for Current TV. After being kidnapped by Hezbollah during the 2006 Israel-Lebanon war he transitioned to surf journalism where he was a featured writer at the brash Stab before becoming Editor at Large at Surfing Magazine. There he developed a reputation as the most controversial voices in the space. Matt Warshaw, author of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, calls him, “Bright and hyper-ironic.” William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize-winning author of Barbarian Days, says that Chas, “…calls it like he sees it and in surfing that’s not usually the case.” Chas Smith is the co-owner of a surf website, BeachGrit. Joe Donnelly is an award-winning journalist and the author of L.A. Man. His short story “Bonus Baby”, published in the spring/summer 2015 issue of Zyzzyva, is featured in the 2016 O. Henry Prize Stories Collection as one of the 20 best short stories of the year. His short story “50 Minutes“, co-authored with Harry Shannon, was selected for The Best American Mystery Stories, 2012 and was recently made into a short film starring Stephen Tobolowsky and DJ Qualls. “The Lone Wolf", written for Orion, was a 2013 longreads.com editor’s pick and a 2014 Pen Center USA Literary Awards Finalist for Journalism. His work has appeared in the Los Angeles Times, Los Angeles Review of Books, LA Weekly, Mother Jones, Huck, Orion, The Surfer’s Journal, Washington Post, and other publications. Donnelly co-founded and co-edited Slake: Los Angeles, the acclaimed journal of long-form journalism, fiction, essay, poetry, photography and art. Slake made a dozen appearances on the Los Angeles Times‘ bestsellers list and work appearing in Slake earned numerous awards and recognitions, including multiple Best American series selections, Livingston Award finalists, PEN USA finalists, LA Press Club awards, Franco-American Foundation’s Excellence in Immigration Reporting First Prize, and more. In 2014, Rare Bird Books published We Dropped A Bomb On You: The Best of Slake, I-IV. From 2002-2008, Donnelly was the deputy editor of LA Weekly. He is currently Visiting Assistant Professor of English and Journalism at Whittier College.
Well, the secret is out. On November 21st, 2017 I surfed Kelly’s Surf Ranch with 14 friends and members of surf media. In today’s episode I recap the day with two of the attendees, writers Jamie Brisick and Matt Warshaw. We discuss the mechanics of the wave itself, how much we’d pay to surf it … Continue reading "203 – Surf Ranch with Jamie Brisick & Matt Warshaw" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
... This episode is only available to SUPPORTERS. Become a SUPPORTER for $5 a month and enjoy access to our entire archive of shows ad-free, receive discounts on merch and be automatically entered into surfboard giveaways. Member support ensures that we can continue to document surf culture weekly and maintain an archive of podcasts for … Continue reading "203 – Surf Ranch with Jamie Brisick & Matt Warshaw" The post 203 – Surf Ranch with Jamie Brisick & Matt Warshaw appeared first on Surf Splendor.
New Yorkers with opinions, Franco Rinaldi and Paul Boehl, share their best and worst of 2017. Derek Hynd and Matt Warshaw write in to share their year end wrap-up and to no surprise Kelly's wave ranch popped up all over the show. Thanks for joining us this past year. Stay tuned in 2018. Music credit: REM, Weeknd, Death Cab for Cutie Photo Credit: www.flickr.com/photos/rikpiks/
Matt Warshaw is surfing's historian. He's a man who knows more about our favorite little hobby than any human alive. He's dedicated to saving its moments, preserving a rich heritage full of flawed individuals. He surfs very well, writes even better. Matt Warshaw is a man I look up to. Having him on the show has been a long time dream. I've pestered him off and on since the beginning, always hoping that something would change and force him to play along. That something was his campaign to keep the Encyclopedia of Surfing alive. A necessary fundraiser forced him to come to terms with his fear of public speaking, and I got to reap the benefits.
In today’s episode, Scott and David reflect on the work of Bruce Brown, Scott’s recent experience riding the replica of his “magic board” and his fondest surf trip memory with Matt Warshaw, they then discuss... Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
... This episode is only available to SUPPORTERS. Become a SUPPORTER for $5 a month and enjoy access to our entire archive of shows ad-free, receive discounts on merch and be automatically entered into surfboard giveaways. Member support ensures that we can continue to document surf culture weekly and maintain an archive of podcasts for … Continue reading "197 – Matt Warshaw: The Encyclopedia of Surfing" The post 197 – Matt Warshaw: The Encyclopedia of Surfing appeared first on Surf Splendor.
In today’s episode we Wax On with Matt Warshaw. Matt tells us his origin story, what compelled him to chronicle surfing’s history, the value of distancing one’s self from the act of surfing, while he gave away all his surfboards, and what’s next for the Encyclopedia of Surfing. Enjoy! Support the Encyclopedia of Surfing by … Continue reading "197 – Matt Warshaw: The Encyclopedia of Surfing" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Matt Warshaw is the former editor of Surfer Magazine and author of The Encyclopedia of Surfing, The History of Surfing and "Above The Roar: 50 Surfer Interviews". In order to maintain the online life of these latter three incredible projects, he needs subscribers to pay the bills. So that's means us surf geeks need to save the day - www.encyclopediaofsurfing.com
Matt Warshaw is the humble keeper of The Encyclopedia of Surfing. He has devoted his life to preserving the historical account of surf culture and lore. He grew up as a Z-boy and even finished a respectable 43rd on the World Tour back in the early 80's. He became an editor at Surfer Magazine and wrote tons of books on surfing. He's smart, articulate and very thoughtful. Our conversation wanders from the from philosophical to the hard truths we face as surfers. His life's project, The Encyclopedia of Surfing (EOS), is a gift to surfers around the world. It's a knowledge base that all can draw from and find inspiration. Unfortunately, it can be expensive maintaining such megalith of a website, and Matt has found himself at a crossroads. He needs to raise $30K by the end of December or else the whole site will go away. All that incredible knowledge and content, will just disappear and the surf world will be lesser for it. So, we are asking all of our listeners to go and contribute or better yet, subscribe to the EOS for as little as $3 a month and help keep surf culture rich. You can go to encyclopediaofsurfing.com/subscribe/ to subscribe. This is definitely one of our most fun interviews and we hope you enjoy and are inspired to support a worthy cause. Enjoy...
Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take … Continue reading "001 – The Grit! June 12, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
Chas Smith joins David Scales again to spill the gossip from over at Beach Grit. The boys ponder why no one is willing to discuss the details that surround Owen Wright’s head trauma. They then dissect Reno Abellira and Matt Warshaw’s Blood Feud, the state of women’s surfing, and Chas’s latest book and film projects. Take … Continue reading "001 – The Grit! June 12, 2017" Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices
This episode is a diet and nutrition special where we look at the science behind eating healthily and debunk some of the common claims you hear in the media. Plus Will makes his own surfboard, Harrison rides single fin thrusters, hang five controversy, Harry surfs with Wingnut, Matt Warshaw launches the History Of Surfing online, Paul Speaker leaves the WSL, Surftech relaunch and what to watch.