Podcasts about atp cp

This week we will discuss Metabolic Systems with our guest,  Francis Fessler.   A certified personal trainer and conditioning coach for the last 25 years, Francis Fessler has built a career by designing programs and coaching professional and amateur athletes, celebrities, business professionals, parents and children to achieve their wellness and fitness goals. Throughout his time in the health and wellness world he evaluated, tried and tested countless ‘diet and nutrition plans' and could not find one that had consistent results for both women and men- so he built one. Francis created F2 Wellness and the highly successful F2 Weight Loss Program for not only his clients, but for anyone looking for a simple, successful and sustainable weight loss program. Have you ever experienced tiredness in your muscles while working out and you couldn't continue exercising after a certain point? Have you wondered what can make you lift heavier weights or run longer than you can today? If you have, understanding the mechanism of the body's energy system can help you find answers to these questions. Three metabolic pathways generate the energy required to perform an exercise: the phosphagen pathway, the glycolytic pathway, and the oxidative pathway, together known as the energy systems. Although your body is always using all three simultaneously, depending on the intensity and duration of the exercise, your body will choose from which pathway it will use the largest percentage of its energy. ​As you may know, all energy used by our bodies is generated from the breakdown of food and drink. The three macronutrients are protein, carbohydrate, and fat. Those are metabolized to create adenosine triphosphate, which is the source of fuel for all body processes, including muscle contraction. ​Unfortunately, the supply of readily available ATP is very limited. It means our bodies constantly have to produce the substance; otherwise, muscle contraction would stop. This re-synthesis of ATP is done by the three energy systems. ​The first 10 to 20 seconds of high-intensity physical activity is fueled by the “ATP-CP,” also known as the phosphagen energy system. Once the available ATP is used up, which occurs in a few seconds, a molecule called phosphocreatine is used to re-form ATP in the muscle. This energy system operates very quickly and can bring the highest output of the three systems. However, it is limited by the availability of creatine phosphate, which is usually consumed within 15 seconds. ​Your body can eventually refill these stores when you rest. This is why this system is most active for athletes who engage in short bouts of very intense, explosive movement, such as a the 50-meter dash or powerlifting. This is also the reason we can sprint at full speed for only a few seconds or lift maximum loads only 1-2 times before requiring rest or a decrease in exercise intensity using another metabolic pathway. ​The second pathway, the glycolytic pathway, is the primary energy system used for exercise lasting from 15 seconds to three minutes. People running an 800-meter event, for example, use this pathway the most. This energy system uses the glucose stored in the muscle, broken down primarily from carbohydrates, to form ATP. The benefit of this pathway is that it kicks in quickly, but it doesn't make very much energy; it can only supply a maximum of about three minutes of energy. This pathway is responsible for the buildup of lactic acid in our muscles, which contributes to fatigue. For exercise lasting longer than three minutes, the oxidative pathway is used. Unlike the others, this energy system requires oxygen. The increase in respiratory rate meets the oxygen demand during physical activity. The oxidative system is slow, but is also the most efficient. Using fat as its primary energy substrate, it produces enough ATP to sustain longer duration activities, but only at submaximal exercise output. It means fat is the predominant fuel source used during low to moderate-intensity activity, like biking or jogging long distances. ​Now you are more knowledgeable on how your body relies on each of these systems working together to meet the energy demands needed for activities of daily living and exercise. The system your body will use primarily depends on the type of activities you mostly engage in. The more you train in that particular type of exercise, the better your body adapts to being able to efficiently use that energy system. ​For example, individuals who have trained in powerlifting can store more phosphocreatine and ATP than a marathon runner or sedentary individual. On the other hand, endurance-trained individuals have better ventilation ability, maximizing oxygen availability for the oxidative pathway. At the end of the day, consistency is key. If you want to excel at a particular type of exercise, just keep doing it and in time, your body will adapt. (Credits: US Army)

贊助我們（單次捐款/月訂） bit.ly/PodSponsor 3/11 森跑板橋站「越野跑者的下肢肌耐力」團課 報名連結 https://sites.google.com/view/lavie202302/%E5%A5%BD%E8%A9%95%E5%8A%A0%E5%A0%B4?pli=1

Todo sobre dieta keto para runners. Adaptación a grasa como combustible en corredores. Emma Suárez, Nutricionista certificada y Health Coach nos hablará de: Sus ventajas y desventajas. Tanto para runners como para la población general. Recuerda, puedes escuchar el episodio entero con el reproductor que encuentras a continuación. También, en la parte final del artículo encontrarás otro reproductor. Sin embargo, la mejor manera de consumir el podcast totalmente gratis es suscribirte. Nos puedes encontrar en Stitcher, Spotify, TuneIn y en todas las plataformas de podcast para Android.   ¿Qué es la dieta keto para runners? Realmente una dieta keto para runners no existe. Simplemente se sigue el mismo parámetro de la dieta conocida como cetogénica o keto. Sin embargo, vale la pena entender por qué un corredor estaría interesado en este estricto plan alimenticio. Para comenzar, se busca que el cuerpo ocupe como energía cetonas en lugar de glucosa. Esto se logra manteniendo la ingesta de carbohidratos a un nivel muy bajo. Menos de 30 gramos por día es el nivel máximo permitido. La hipótesis de esta dieta keto para runners es que al haber mayor reservas de grasa comparadas a glucosa, es más inteligente basarse en grasa para correr que en glucosa. Miremos las reservas de energía en el cuerpo:   Bodegas de energía en el cuerpo. Esto se mide en kilocalorías (kcal). En total, tenemos alrededor de 115,000 kcal a nuestra disposición. Sin embargo, estas están presentes en diferentes formas: Grasa (71.8%) 80.000 en tejido adiposo 2.500 en triglicéridos musculares 75 en triglicéridos plasmáticos 7 ácidos grasos libres séricos Proteína (26%) 30.000 en Proteína muscular Carbohidratos (2.19%) 1700 en Glucógeno en músculos 500 en glucógeno en hígado 90 en glucosa en sangre ATP/CP (0.01%) = Trifosfato de adenosina y fosfato de creatina 5 en diferentes órganos Aunque una dieta keto para runners tiene ventajas, examinemos las desventajas que desglosamos en el episodio.   Desventajas: Emma de Sistemma.com.mx nos explico una a una estas desventajas: Mal aliento. Deshidratación. Aumento del colesterol. Caída de pelo y cansancio. Constipación y vómitos temporales. Puede producir piedras en los riñones, pancreatitis y deficiencias de vitaminas y minerales. Y Luis no hablo de algunas desventajas puntuales para los runners: El cuerpo quema carbohidratos y grasa de manera muy diferente. Louise Burke escribió en “Nutrición Deportiva: Mucho más que calorías†que la oxidación de grasa se inhibe en el cuerpo cuando la intensidad es más alta que el 75% de tu máxima capacidad aeróbica. Si sobrepasas esa intensidad, el cuerpo automáticamente cambia a oxidar carbohidratos, ya que la movilización de grasas, la sintetización de glucosa y la glucólisis toman más tiempo de lo que el cuerpo puede mantener un esfuerzo intenso. También, toma 20% mas de oxigeno liberar energía de grasas que de carbohidratos, lo que reduce tu economía. No representa mayor problema ya que tienes bastante energía de donde quemar. Otra desventaja, es la interrupción del entrenamiento. Inicialmente, no tendrás suficiente energía ni de cetonas ni carbohidratos para tu cerebro ni otras tareas del organismo. Por 6 meses lo único que estás mejorando es en la adaptación a grasa. Tiempos, distancias y  recuperación sufren. Percepción de cansancio aumenta. Pérdida de flexibilidad. El hecho que la dieta es tan estricta y comer más de 30 gramos de carbohidratos en un día te puede sacar de cetosis, te quita la habilidad de nutrirte en una carrera con lo que esté disponible. Por diferentes razones,  tu alimentación preparada no puede estar disponible en alguna oportunidad.   Ventajas. Los beneficios de salud de la dieta keto para runners son múltiples. Entre ellos: Baja de peso. Baja los niveles oxidativos del estrés. Reversa enfermedades cardiovasculares y síndrome metabólico. Ayuda con síndrome poliquístico debido a menos ingesta de insulina. Mejora la función cerebral. Retraso del envejecimiento. Ayuda con síndrome de intestino irritable. Disminución de inflamación general. Control de acidez estomacal. Favorece a personas con enfermedad de hígado graso. Menos migrañas. Estabilización de comportamientos bipolares y relacionados al autismo. Mayor facilidad para ayunar. Pacientes con Parkinsons, epilepsia y Alzheimer reportan mejoras. Esclerosis múltiple desapareció en un paciente. Aquí puedes ver el testimonio de la Doctora Terry Walhs. Disminución de acné. Aquí un enlace que soporta varios de estos estudios. Ventajas para runners: Ahora, referente a las ventajas para runners, encontramos: En un estudio del 2015, investigador Jeff Volek de la universidad de Ohio, encontró que atletas que consumen 10% carbohidratos, 20 proteína y 70% grasas eran más de dos veces más eficientes quemando grasa que atletas de la elite que consumían una dieta rica en carbohidratos. Sin embargo, múltiples estudios no han encontrado ninguna ventaja a nivel de rendimiento entre carbohidratos y grasas. Muchos prefieren grasas ya que los hacen sentir más satisfechos y previenen los alto y bajos de azúcar asociados con carbohidratos simples. Corredores adaptados a grasa que compitan a un ritmo parejo, pueden hacerlo por muchas horas consumiendo menos calorías que atletas que se basan en carbohidratos. Por esta razón, resulta una ventaja para personas que sufren de problemas gastrointestinales. Esto sucede porque, durante la práctica de ejercicio por 9 a 24 horas o más, hacen que la digestión en el tracto se reduzca o elimine, creando gases, inflamación y náusea. Sin embargo, esta ventaja, es puesta en tela de juicio por Jason Koop autor de Training Essentials para ultrarunning, quien dice que el sistema gastrointestinal puede ser educado con una correcta planeación y entrenamiento. En sus palabras, cetosis, es una solución complicada a un problema relativamente simple.   ¿Cómo hacer la dieta keto para runners correctamente? Ahora, si después de evaluar las ventajas y desventajas sigues interesado, aquí ciertos recordatorios: Las únicas frutas permitidas son frutos rojos y limón. Algunas nueces son altas en carbs, como: nuez de la india, pistaches, almendras y piñón. Se debe de cuidar su consumo. Se permiten las verduras como: jitomate, espinaca, kale/col rizada, calabacita/zucchini, brócoli, pimiento, ejotes, espárragos, coliflor. Sin embargo, se debe de controlar la porción, Es recomendable una suplementación de vitaminas y minerales. También, llevar este plan de la mano con algún profesional de la salud. Alimentos que debes evitar: Pan, pasta, arroz, betabel/remolacha, papa, quinoa,camote/boniato. Legumbres como frijoles o lentejas, Frutas como  manzana plátano, mango. Controlar el consumo de zanahoria, En cuanto a runners se refiere, Luis nos habló de ciertos pasos que puedes empezar a tomar hoy para lograr una mejor transición cuando decidas irte 100% a la dieta keto para runners: Dieta baja en carbohidratos y alta en grasas saludables. No tienes que regirte por los estrictos 30 gramos pero si empezar a cortar los carbohidratos progresivamente. Entrenar en ayunas. Recuperarte con una dieta baja en carbohidratos. Entrenar doble jornada. Una para gastar todo el glucógeno. La segunda para enseñar al cuerpo a buscar energía de cetonas.   Ejemplo de dieta keto para runners. @Sistemma.Nutricion nos da un ejemplo de un menú en el día de una persona que decida escoger la dieta keto para runners: Desayuno: Huevos fritos en mantequilla con espinacas, aguacate/palta Colación / merienda / snack: Aceitunas o quesos maduros + fresas o frambuesas o nuez pecana o macadamia Almuerzo: Salmón sobre cama de calabacita rallada en forma de espagueti y aderezo de parmesano. Ensalada de espinacas con jitomate cherry con aderezo de aceite de oliva y vinagre. Colación / snack: Crema de coco con cacao en polvo y estevia. Cena: Carnes frías con queso y ensalada de brócoli con aceite de oliva Escucha el episodio completo y decide si la dieta keto para runners es para ti. Si tienes más preguntas o te interesa el acompañamiento de Emma, la puedes contactar.   Contacta a Emma Suárez: Website: www.Sitemma.com.mx Instagram: @Sistemma.nutricion Email: Emma.Suarez@sistemma.com.mx   No te pierdas el próximo episodio. Ya sabes donde puedes escuchar la entrevista completa. También, puedes suscribirte gratuitamente para que no te pierdas ningún episodio. Aquí están ambos enlaces para Android y iOS Apple. Sin embargo, si prefieres utilizar los reproductores integrados a la página, ponemos a tu disposición el de iVoxx en la parte superior y otro en la parte inferior. Aquí está el calendario completo de todos los episodios que tenemos al aire hasta el momento. [/vc_column_text][/vc_column][/vc_row] The post TP072: Dieta Keto para runners. Ventajas, desventajas y cómo hacerlo bien. appeared first on Trotadores.

"Uncle Bob" Santana returns to the podcast to discuss the third in the Holy Trinity of supplements: creatine. Creatine is one of the most studied supplements around, and consistently demonstrates a small but measurable performance boost for high intensity activity. Barring kidney disease, everyone should take it. Even your grandma.   Creatine is an endogenous substance, meaning the body manufactures it naturally. It is stored in the muscle cells as creatine phosphate, a molecule responsible for "recharging" spent ATP and thereby providing a fast, high-powered energy source for the muscles. As Santana explained in Episode #131, the body uses numerous energy systems to power activity. The first few seconds of heavy activity (like a 1RM or the first rep of a heavy set of fahve) utilize the localized ATP stored in the muscle cells. The ATP spent during these few seconds becomes ADP (adenosine diphosphate, i.e. a phosphate is lost), and creatine phosphate quickly recharges the ADP into more ATP. The phosphocreatine or ATP-CP energy system, therefore, kicks in once the initial stores of ATP are exhausted, and is the primary energy system used during strength training.   Supplementing creatine maximizes the amount of creatine phosphate available to power the ATP-CP energy system. In practical terms, creatine can provide the extra stamina for hitting that fifth rep on your heavy sets across. Throughout your training career, those extra reps add up.   Another theory about the mechanism of creatine involves intracellular hydration. Creatine draws water into the muscle cells -- in fact, it is common to put on an extra few pounds of water weight starting supplementation -- and, consequently, facilitates the flow of other important nutrients into the cell: glycogen for energy stores, and electrolytes to aid the action potential during muscle contractions.   Santana recommends supplementing with 5g of creatine monohydrate daily. Don't bother with any of the other forms of creatine -- they are more expensive and not proven to be any more efficacious than monohydrate. You can take creatine with anything, but try putting it in your protein shake. There's no need to front-load it by taking 20g per day for the first week or two then reducing to 5g daily as a maintenance dose. Just begin with the 5g daily maintenance dose and, in time, probably a few weeks, you will get the same benefit.   Discounts Save 5% off any order at Dominion Belts with the discount code fahveoff.   Connect With Matt Matt on Instagram Starting Strength Online Coaching — Matt’s website Matt on Facebook Matt on Twitter Connect With Scott Scott on Instagram Silver Strength – Scott’s website Scott on Facebook Scott on Twitter Connect With the Show Barbell Logic on Twitter Barbell Logic on Instagram The Website Barbell Logic on Facebook barbelllogicpodcast@gmail.com  

This is the fourth in a series on using bioenergetic energy systems  as a guiding model to train more effectively. This epic 90-minute episode breaks down the nuance of properly training both the climbing-specific and generalized aerobic energy system—a critical and often-overlooked metabolic pathway that contributes significantly to power production in climbing and, importantly, drives most of the recovery process between moves, crux sequences, climbing, and even boulder problems. There's lots of gold to mine from this podcast, especially for already highly training intermediate to elite climbers. Podcast Rundown 00:15 – Eric’s Intro to training the aerobic energy system…and its high importance to rock climbers. How the energy system conceptual model can empower you to train smarter and get more out of your training investment. 4:45 – If you think these podcasts are gold, then why not share it with your friends….and please leave a review on iTunes! 5:15 – All about the aerobic energy system and how it differs from the other two energy systems. Of course, all three energy systems contribute to ATP production, but there are certain climbing situations that call heavily on the aerobic energy system. 9:15 – A quick review of the three energy systems, when each dominates, and how the aerobic system comes into play for climbers. Learn why and when the anaerobic energy systems power down and eventually fail you…and how the aerobic energy system can only provide a sustained “critical power” of only about one-third of your peak power. 15:35 – How the aerobic energy system supports the ATP-CP energy system. Important stuff, especially for rope climbers…but really for all climbers. 18:20 – How the aerobic system supports the anaerobic lactic energy system. Yes, a stronger aerobic system can help you control the “pump”; but it’s also important that you strive to improve climbing economy and reduce the ATP cost of a given move or sequence—this is a hugely powerful distinction! 21:55 – A quick reminder on the importance of increasing maximum strength and power, season over season, because this sets the ceiling for your peak power output and anaerobic capacity. 23:50 – A detail discussion of the bioenergetics of finger flexor muscles and how finger grip intensity determines the energy system most used. Occlusion of blood flow is the critical factor, and maintaining blood flow as much as possible is one of the secrets of elite climbers. 28:45 – The physical prowess of Adam Ondra is both his large anaerobic reserve (capacity) AND high aerobic power! 30:35 – What climbing researchers have measured in the lab with regarding to the bioenergetics of climbing. (A truly climbing-specific VO2 test has yet to be developed and validated for testing at the gym.)  The importance of not conflating generalized aerobic fitness (and VO2) with climbing-specific aerobic development (and VO2). 32:34 – Moving from theory to practice…here we begin to look into targeted training of the finger flexors and pulling muscles (the rock climbing agonists). 34:09 - What adaptations take places in the climbing muscles that improve aerobic power? Adaptation #1 in an increase in capillary density which results in a decrease in diffusion distance—importantly, this contributes to increasing O2 kinetics. Simon Fryer’s research showed that elite climbers have higher O2 kinetics than lesser climbers. 37:50 – Adaptation #2 is an increase in aerobic enzymes…which can upregulate in just a matter of days to a week or two of aerobic-centric training/climbing. 40:15 – Adaptation #3 is mitochondria adaptations—critical for long-term development year over year…and for maintaining climbing-specific VO2 into middle age and beyond. 43:30 – Important point: Intracellular acidosis negatively impacts mitochondria function. This explains why a vicious flash pump (due to a poor warm up) can hurt same-day climbing performance…and why chronic acidosis (too much time spent anaerobic lactic training/climbing per week) can decrease aerobic power and contribute toward onset of overtraining syndrome. 45:15 – The difference between “aerobic power” and “aerobic capacity”. Which matters more for you? 47:10 – Exercises for developing aerobic power and capacity for climbers... 48:32 – ARC climbing. This involves easy, long, very submaximal (3 or 4 number grades below your limit) climbing for 30 to 60 minutes. It must be fairly low in intensity with no complete occlusion of forearm blood flow—you mustn’t succumb to the “pump lust”. Learn the pros and cons of ARC training. 53:10 – Threshold Intervals—perhaps the best approach to aerobic development for the mass of climbers. Unfortunately, getting the intensity right can be difficult—it can’t be too hard (too anaerobic) or too easy (too far below the aerobic threshold). For most people the target intensity is an 8 out of 10 as the end-of-set physical intensity and perceived exertion. A light pump and small increase in breathing rate is fine, but not a deep pump or heavy breathing (which signals anaerobic metabolism dominates). 59:36 – Alactic-aerobic intervals. For elite climbers, this is a go-to strategy for increasing aerobic power for high-level bouldering and sport climbing. This is NOT a training method for beginner or intermediate climbers, however, because it requires a high base level of strength and power. This is a tricky exercise protocol to get right—nuance, self-awareness, and discipline are essential to do it right and get the desired training adaptations. Listen closely for the critical details! 1:09:48 – How to train the climbing-specific aerobic system if you don’t have access to a climbing wall. Here, I describe two exercises using a hangboard or campus board: “moving hangs” and “low-intensity repeaters”. As with the previous exercises, getting the training nuance right is essential to gain aerobic system adaptations—specifically, your finger grip force must be only 20% - 30% of maximum so as to not completely occlude blood flow and go deeply anaerobic. 1:13:20 – A quick look at generalized aerobic training…running, bicycling, rowing, swimming, trail running, etc. 1:15:00 – What climbing researchers have determined with regarding to the VO2 max of climbers…and the need and benefits of generalized aerobic fitness and training.  1:18:00 - Does generalized aerobic training really help performance? Might it hurt climbing performance? Is it a priority or a secondary need? How often should you do it? Learn all these details and more here! 1:23:20 – What days and time of days should you do your aerobic training? Tips and tricks for getting the most out of your aerobic system training…and how to integrate it with your other training for best results. 1:26:16 – Wrap up, closing comments, and final tips on energy system training. This stuff IS the future of training for climbing! 1:27:10 – Comments about the International Rock Climbing Researchers Association (IRCRA) meeting in Chamonix, France where I’ll speaking in July…and Eric’s closing comments. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to sign-up for a monthly training newsletter and to get a FREE training-for-climbing eBOOK! Learn more about Energy System Training on TrainingForClimbing.com Purchase the latest edition of Training For Climbing--the world's best seller book on training for climbers. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Photo: Andy Raether on the first ascent of Manphibian (5.14d), Mt. Charleston, NV. Courtesy of Lacey Jones.

This is the third in a four-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts for improved training results and climbing performance. This episode is the conclusion of podcast #23 (on training the Anaerobic Lactic energy system) and it details specific training protocols for improving short, intermediate, and long power endurance. Combined, episodes #23 and #24 make for a super-sized (2+ hours!) brain-bursting, muscle-pumping training for climbing podcast! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Intro about how this podcast is actually the second half of Podcast #23—combined they make for 2 hours of instruction on energy system training. A super-sized podcast! 1:50 – The energy system focus remains how to best train up the anaerobic lactic energy system that “bridges” the ATP-CP and aerobic energy systems. 3:25 – A quick recap of the first part (episode #23) on how the anaerobic lactic system works...and the specific adaptations that we’re after. 8:00 – Important: How occlusion of forearm blood flow (during gripping of holds) accelerates intracellular acidification and hastens drop in power output. Thus, the importance of keeping blood flowing to “flush” metabolic byproducts and sustain some degree of aerobic power contribution. 9:25 – Rate of adaptation to training: Anaerobic lactic specific adaptations are relatively fast, whereas many aerobic system specific adaptations take months and years. A quick intro to the aerobic energy system adaptations that enable long-term training adaptations and improved endurance/capacity. 12:30 – A reminder of difference between “anaerobic power” and “anaerobic capacity”…and how you can test yourself for each. 21:00 – A quick disclosure on the variability, flaws, limitations, and validity of many current climbing tests of common performance indicators, such as finger flexor strength, lactic endurance, and aerobic power. 23:55 – Anaerobic capacity training (lactic system specific) protocols—I break into three categories: 1. “high-end” or “short” power endurance (peak power output for 15 to 30 seconds), 2. “intermediate power endurance” (sustained near-maximal power output for 40 to 60 seconds), and 3. “transitional” or “long power endurance” (1 to 3 minutes of moderately-high power climbing/exercise). 25:55 – The importance of the energy system “crossover” that occurs between 45 and 90 seconds, depending on the strength of your anaerobic lactic and aerobic energy systems. For most climbers, this anaerobic-aerobic crossover is likely between 60 and 75 seconds of sustained, high-intensity (no rest, no shake) climbing. 28:45 – How to train “high-end power endurance”. Brief all-out bursts of exercise/climbing with a work-to-rest ratio of at least 1:10. For example, 15 to 30 seconds of very hard exercise/climbing (9.5 to 10 out of 10 effort) followed by 3 to 5 minutes of rest. 33:26 – How to train “intermediate power endurance” for improved mid-range anaerobic capacity (up to one minute of sustained, no-rest, no-shake climbing). The goal is high-intensity exercise/climbing sustained for 40 to 60 seconds at a perceived exertion/intensity of 9 to 9.5 out of 10. This class of anaerobic training is commonly missing from climbers’ training programs—don’t let that be you! 41:50 – Train “long power endurance” (1 to 3 minute anaerobic capacity) with up to 3 minutes of sustained moderately high-intensity exercise or climbing. Perceived exertion should be 8.5 to 9 out of 10 with significant forearm muscle pump/pain and breathlessness. This is classic lactic “tolerance” training—it builds both mental and physical tolerance to the fatiguing byproducts of long-duration power climbing. 45:30 – A word of caution about training “long power endurance” too often or at too high a volume. Especially in-season, this type of training can lead to diminished performance among route climbers who climb outside for performance a few days per week. Overtraining syndrome warning: If you sense you’re getting weaker or losing power, despite immense training/climbing effort, this may be why. 52:35 – Final tips for applying this powerful information. Learn how to prioritize and schedule your training. And always remember that “the best training program for you is one you’re not doing!” 57:20 – Listen to this and the previous podcast several times—there’s a lot of powerful information to assimilate and learn to apply correctly. 58:05 – PLEASE WRITE A REVIEW of this podcast on iTunes…and SHARE with your friends! 58:40 - Visit TrainingForClimbing.com to sign-up for a monthly training newsletter and to get a FREE training-for-climbing eBOOK! Leave a question for the upcoming “Ask Coach Horst” podcast at my Twitter account @Train4Climbing 59:20 – Learn about the new ULTIMATE Hangboard! Need a fingerboard for home training? Consider this one, which I designed for optimal finger flexor crimp and pocket training. Learn more at TrainingForClimbing.com or Nicros.com PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! Learn more about Energy System Training on TrainingForClimbing.com Purchase the latest edition of Training For Climbing--the world's best seller book on training for climbers. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy

This is the second in a five-part series on energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This episode (and the next) focus specifically on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system and how to best train for adaptations that will increase your anaerobic capacity. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will be able to train more effectively and, hopefully, obtain gradual training gains for seasons and years to come! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Introduction & comments on why the energy system training conceptual model is valuable...especially to advance and elite climbers. 3:17 – "Thank yous" for all the feedback on the first Energy System podcast. My offer to answer YOUR questions via the next “Ask Coach Hörst” podcast…coming in late May. Submit your question on Twitter @Train4climbing and please include your name, home town, and years climbing. Keep your question short and focused. 5:40 – A first look at the anaerobic lactate energy system...and what we're going drill down into over the next 50+ minutes. 8:00 - Warning about old information and bad advice (and questionable training protocols) that are widespread in the public domain, regarding energy system training. Climbing is a novel activity and in this podcast I am presenting a climbing-specific breakdown of energy system training that may be much different than what you've read or heard for other sports...or other coaches. The science has changed somewhat in recent years... 9:37 - Example: "Lactic acid"...a commonly used term by many laypersons, as well as many athletes, coaches, and even some academics not on top of the latest research on bioenergetics. Listen and learn! Lactate anions and protons (H+) are 99% dissociated at human physiological pH...so talk about "lactate" and "proton" (or acidosis), but NOT "lactic acid"! 13:20 - The 3 parts of this podcast: 1. a review of the three energy systems, 2. an in-depth look at the strengths & weaknesses of the Anaerobic Lactic energy system, 3. a detailed presentation of numerous training strategies & protocols for increasing anaerobic capacity (due to length, this third section is in a separate podcast (#24). 14:50 - Part 1: Overview of the 3 energy systems..and how they overlap and interact. 15:48 - It's all about synthesizing and breaking down ATP to power muscle contraction (and relaxation). Did you know you breakdown your body weight in ATP each day? True story! 18:40 - Review of the ATP-CP system...the source of anaerobic power (highest rate of ATP production & splitting). 21:25 - Teaser on the Anaerobic Lactic energy system. 26:16 - Teaser on the Aerobic energy energy system...the pathway by which ATP can be generated for sustained exercise beyond ~2 minutes, although only at about one-third the power output of the Anaerobic Lactic energy pathway. 29:10 - The unique nature of climbing makes understanding the constant interplay of the 3 energy systems difficult to grasp...and even harder to properly train. 30:10 - For example, frequent occlusion of blood flow to the finger flexor muscles forces a high dependence on anaerobic energy production...and, thus, makes rapid fatigue (drop in power output) a common problem. You can help reduce this dependence by climbing faster and reducing the length of time you grip small/difficult hand holds. 33:00 - A bit on developing climbing research...and about this summer's International Rock Climbing Researches Association (IRCRA) conference in Chamonix France this summer. 34:02 - Drill down into how the Anaerobic Lactic system works. The three energy systems overlap, but it's the Lactic system dominates in sustained near-all-out exercise lasting 15 seconds to about 1 or 2 minutes. 36:25 - About the byproducts of anaerobic glycolysis...and how the limit this energy pathway and your capacity to produce ATP via the anaerobic pathway. Details on the source of fatigue and the training adaptations that you are after. 40:10 - Learn how lactate forms...and how lactate is actually a good thing (NOT a bad thing, per the common belief). 42:45 - Learn one of the secrets of Adam Ondra's climbing prowess. Details on my IRCRA conference presentation...breaking down Adam Ondra's ascent of Silence (5.15d) and Margo Hayes' ascent of Biography (5.15a). 44:20 - The drop in power output from 45 seconds to 75 seconds of sustained difficult climbing is profound...as the lactic system begins to fail and the oxidative system becomes the primary source of ATP production around 60 to 75 seconds into near-all-out activity. 46:30 - The importance of lactate, anaerobic enzymes, and lactate transporters to enable continued anaerobic lactic energy system production...and increase anaerobic capacity. 49:20 - Learn what happens to all the lactate created in your climbing muscles. 51:30 - Importance of training up all 3 energy systems...and trying to "keep all 3 balls in the air" from a performance perspective. 53:00 - Why it's helpful to learn about bioenergetics and sports science--it will empower you to train smarter! 54:45 - Final point: Think of anaerobic power as maximum rate of ATP product (in a 5 second burst)...and view anaerobic capacity as the volume of ATP you can generate in a given period of high-power anaerobic exercise/climbing (say, in 45 seconds or a minute of all-out climbing). 55:28 - Wrap of this part of the Anaerobic Lactic system podcast--breaking this stemwinder of a podcast into two Parts...the next will be released just a few days after this one and it will cover training protocols for developing a greater anaerobic capacity. So tune into Podcast #24 for that important information! 56:00 – Final send off - PLEASE SHARE the T4C Podcast! Learn more about Energy System Training on TrainingForClimbing.com Purchase the latest edition of Training For Climbing--the world's best seller book on training for climbers. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy

This is the first of a two-part FIVE-part in-depth look at energy system training as a conceptual model for organizing your workouts to obtain better results in the long-term. This is a cutting-edge topic with huge potential, especially for advanced and elite climbers, to open up new levels of strength, power, and endurance. By thoughtfully and accurately applying my energy system training guidelines, you will better target individual energy systems to improve cellular signaling and reduce inferring/conflicting signals. This episode focuses on the alactic system that fuels high-powers and the important--and novel--adaptations in the muscle cells, extracellular matrix & fascia, nervous system, tendons, and cardiovascular system. It’s a rich topic that will take a couple podcasts (or more) to unwind and learn to effectively apply to climbing. Let's get started! Podcast Rundown 0:20 – Introduction 1:15 – Mission statement of the Training For Climbing Podcast 7:40 – Request for you to SHARE this podcast! 8:20 – Introducing the “Ask Coach Hörst” special edition of the Training For Climbing podcast…coming in April. Submit your question on Twitter @Train4climbing and please include your name, home town, and years climbing. 9:55 – Overview of the 3 energy system: Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP), Anaerobic Lactic, Aerobic 14:20 – Anaerobic Alactic (ATP-CP) System 16:00 – How the Aerobic energy system supports the Alactic system 17:52 – Anaerobic Lactic System (Anaerobic Glycolysis) 20:37 – Aerobic/Oxidative energy system 21:50 – Bertuzzi study of climbers’ relative energy system utilization 24:02 - A deep drill down look at the Alactic energy system 26:30 – Biochemistry of the ATP-CP system. The Löhmann Reaction. 33:22 – Is consuming supplemental creatine (to load intracellular CP) a good thing for climbers? 40:50 – Adaptations of Alactic Training 45:00 – 1. Neural adaptations – What are they? How do you trigger then with training? 48:20 – 2. Architectural adaptations - What are they? How do you properly train them? 54:25 – 3. Tendon remodeling – What is it…and how it can increase force output and power? 59:15 – Alactic system exercise training protocols. How often should you specifically train this energy system? 1:01:00 – Four climbing-specific exercises that can produce Alactic system-related adaptations and increase muscle efficiency. 1:09:22 – Learn the 1st Rule of Eric’s “Train Club” 1:10:42 – Suggested work-to-rest ratio for Alactic training 1:14:00 – Programming alactic focused workouts 1:15:20 – Special Announcement! “The Ultimate Hangboard” 1:16:54 – Final send off - PLEASE SHARE the T4C Podcast! Learn more about Energy System Training on TrainingForClimbing.com Purchase the latest edition of Training For Climbing--the world's best seller book on training for climbers. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy

Coach BK and Bob Seehohar, author of the fantastic book, Metabolic Efficiency training chat why it is so important to become more FAT ADAPTED. Part 2 will contain more information on the eating strategies included in the book. CLICK here >>> for a Free Athlete Health Assessment with Coach BK to fill out an online form and chat with her on the phone for 30 about where you are right now as a person and athlete. Health Assessment More information on Metabolic Efficiency here >>> Metabolic Efficiency     MORE ABOUT THE ENERGY SYSTEMS OF THE BODY Three different metabolic energy systems power your workouts — and your day. Here’s how each one works, and how to make the most of them all. Your body has several ways of turning the stuff you eat into the stuff you do. All of these metabolic energy systems are switched on during physical activity, but each plays a different role depending on available energy and the specific demands of the task. Each burns a particular type of fuel at a particular rate — thereby affecting fat loss and muscle gain in a particular way. The adenosine triphosphate–creatine phosphate (ATP-CP) system, or phosphagen system, supports very brief, high-intensity activities like a single-effort vertical jump. The glycolytic system provides energy for activities of slightly longer duration and lower intensity like strength training. The oxidative system supports long-duration, lower-intensity activities like walking or distance running. >>> READ MORE