Cant Not

In conversation with Mina Alyeshmerni of @Maimoun_store on why independent retail is punk, pushing against traditional fashion hierarchies, Barney's informing how she could operate in fashion, the dot com boom and when we started shopping online, supporting young growing designers and how this changes the system, championing diverse POV's, what goes into a $500 top, defining good design, what sets Maimoun apart and how not to add to the noise, the role independent fashion plays in future fashion culture and so much more

In conversation with Ondine on how her experience working on design teams at fashion houses led to collecting and selling designer vintage, listening to what designers have to say, why she chooses the designers she collects, Rick Owens and the world he creates, researching the historical context of archives and antiques, what makes an archive piece hold its value, her holy grail, the current state of fashion and resale and so much more

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In conversation with Spasia of @fivedotsvintage on the influence of Manolo Blahnik in pop culture and the eternal shoe, seeing her first pair of designer shoes in her 20s after leaving her home country, how our shoes define us emotionally and aesthetically, how the kitten heel made its way back into our lives after the high heels of the 2010s, the sex appeal of a slingback, most requested shoes, the reward of finding shoes for brides, our favourite shoe brands for everyday use and so much more

In conversation with Gisel of @suitoflights, on how her focus on natural materials started from her culture, working on the corporate side of fashion and how this resulted in a shift to vintage, bringing awareness to the synthetic fabric commonly used in clothes and how they effect us and the environment, the lifespan of synthetic vs natural fabrics, choosing natural materials over designer labels when curating her store, the independent slow fashion brands of today being our future vintage, the original influencers of New York, NY Yankee caps and so much more

In conversation with fashion photographer Yasmine Diba on what brought her to photography, the influences of Tumblr and David Lynch, the many trends in photography existing at once, AI, moving from Film to Digital, the teenage spirit, how there is nothing cooler than doing you, the over accessibility to coolness, teenage bedrooms and capturing your spaces, French new wave cinema, the "lived in" look, vintage keeping its integrity and so much more

I am incredibly honoured to celebrate 80 episodes with these fantastic women who teach me a thing or two about this niche part of fashion history that starts with men in a pajama and ends with women in trousers. In conversation with Janine D'agati and Hannah Schiff, vintage fashion collectors, historians and authors of 'From Sleepwear to Sportswear, How Beach Pajama's Reshaped Women's Fashion'. We get into how this is the first academic text on the subject, the origin of Pajamas and it's east meets west journey, the smoking suit, how the rise of the beach holiday was a catapult for opulent resort dressing, the controversy of the beach pajama, the beginning for Coco Chanel, differen't beach pajama styles, the incredible beach pajama designer of the time Mary Nowitzky, how the trouser finally became normal for women, why the term beach pajama faded out, how the beach pajama transformed women and culture, and so much more

In conversation with @madalynnewellking on what actually happened to her account, the effects of loosing everything you built online, how supportive the vintage community is, expanding offline, what it takes to start your own business, Madalyn fully therapises me through my existential freelance creative crisis, the skinny jean and where we are at on the denim circuit, how eBay is still our favourite place to shop, online shopping hacks, getting through a style identity crisis, navigating social media, our 90s off duty model style, fashion predictions and so much more

In conversation with Alejandro of @y2kbags on why y2k was such a pinnacle time for it bags, the little bitch bag, securing the IG handle, growing up with the coach patchwork tote, pocketbook parties for moms, the it bags of today, Kate moss and the birth of the Balenciaga city bag, Nikki Hilton's bag collection, hot takes on the most underrated and overrated bags, what bag to invest in today, bag trend predictions and so much more

In conversation with @addictedtorags on the historic evolution of the plain t-shirt to the graphic tee. The transition of tees from underwear to outerwear. T-shirt activism and contextualising the history behind the clenched fist graphic. Getting into your own niche. What deems a Tee to be rare. The recent resurgence of the ironic slogan tee and the contemporary T-shirt makers ripping off the vintage ones. The ford 'freak' tee and 70s souvenir tees. Arturo Vega designs for the Ramones tees. Selling band merch back in the day. Bootleg tees. Single stitch. How hard it is to replicate old printing techniques. Gatekeeping. The dying art of old printing techniques. Swiping your card to look the part, and so much more

In conversation with Lili of @e.u.n.o.i.a.a on creating a sustainable brand at a luxury level, the green initiatives Eunoiaa takes from manufacturing to delivery, 3d printing porcelain into pearls, thinking about the final stages in a garment's life - will it biodegrade, will It be disposed properly? LVMH headstock fabrics, embracing your feminine energy, baby steps for big brands, the need to elevate independent brands and so much more

In conversation with Alexis of Tab Vintage on Elsa Schiaparelli and Madam Gris, the spice girls influence, how she pivoted her career to vintage, selling qvc style on instagram live during the pandemic, becoming the special occasion vintage shopping destination, doing the research and solving fashion mysteries, the characters you meet through sourcing, when Tab Vintage graced the Met Gala, what it actually means when celebs wear vintage to an event, being a Pheobe Philo Celine Queen & so much more

In conversation with Kristina of Vault Vintage on 2000s fashion tv like Project Runway, Fashion Police, Top Model & Rachel Zoe. Selling her mom's clothes as a teen, the magic of West London, having vintage at all price points, 1980s costume jewellery, Japanese designer Kori Joko and Australian designer Carla Zampatti, the interesting parts of sourcing, second hand being more accessible, quality over designer labels, what will AI do for fashion? & so much more

In conversation with the incredible Fiona of London's legendary vintage store Rellik growing up in Australia in the 70s and using patterns to make her own clothes, going to Central Saint Martins in the 80s, her introduction to Portobello Market and starting her own stall in 1995, at that time selling young upcoming designers clothes along with vintage and upcycling, the fashion buyers and designers who would come to the market, how her pieces ended up in Hong Kong Department store Joyce and Topshop, Getting her shop where Rellik still resides today, the increase of Stylists pulling full vintage looks from Rellik, underrated UK designers, her love for Rick Owens, the future of fashion and so much more

In conversation with Michael of Toots Vintage on getting the slinky look for less, working at Beacons closet in NYC during its prime, the secret 250 piece Helmut Lang collector behind Toots, the unpredictability of social media and having roots IRL, the underrated designer Sue Wong, early 00s Victorias Secret silk, when corporate fast fashion heads follow you, being an independent business owner and so much more

Episode 67. In conversation with Jasmine of Piracy Vintage, on how she got into starting her Athens based vintage store, discovering the incredible designs of Kostas Murkudis who used to work for Helmut Lang before starting his own label in the 90s, her obsession with Plein Sud, trends and the return of the Isabelle Marant Bekett sneaker wedge, the culture in Greece around vintage and the style in Athens, why are brands recreating their archives and so much more

In conversation with Jennie Walker of The Jennie Walker Archive, on acquiring the largest collection of vintage Moschino in the U.S., if the secondhand industry actually made a difference in the sustainability of the fashion industry, the Moschino skirt that started it all and her journey to learn as much as possible about the designer, from shopping consignment as a child to opening her first consignment store, renting her Moschino to the red carpet, the energy at a vintage show compared to a luxury store, estate sales and young women hunting for quality, favourite Moschino shows & so much more

In conversation with Christopher of Filter Store in Adelaide Australia, on discovering and shopping Japanese designers at a young age, how the financing of his garment research lead to Filter Store, corporate marketing vs independent POVs, the thought behind the IG captions, fashion authorities and knowing the unknowable, appreciating fabrics and unique design, rediscovering forgotten designers of the past, how increased vintage prices led him to niche designers, the decline of mid price quality clothes and making an effort to offer that to customers, the effects of profiteering in fashion, a question around sustainability and newness, Jean Colonna, Inoue Pleats Company, Wrinqle, Yoshiki Hishinuma and so much more

In conversation with David of Pineapple Factory Gallery on New York in the 90s and buying Margiela at Century 21, pre-internet vintage dealing, personal style, avoiding trends, the change of how design teams source vintage, the rise of fakes and tricks of buying online, favourite runway shows, the future of fashion and so much more

In conversation with Ali of Cut Thwice, the second hand designer search tool, on how vital independent resellers are to the ecosystem of resale, bringing together the grailed and depop consumers, shipping internationally via proxies, indie marketing in the reselling community, the intelegence and community behind designer resale, flipping mentality within consumers, how resale has influenced contemporary shopping, not gatekeeping and so much more

Episode 60, in conversation with Sophie Strauss, stylist for regular people, on the Tumblr and fashion blog era, street style photography before influencers, the difference between fashion and style, ways to avoid impulse shopping, her personal style journey, nurturing clients relationships to their closets, styling proportions, encouraging secondhand and ethical shopping options, fast fashion's infinite drive for profits and how its the antithesis to fashion, positive effects of buying less, the future of fashion and so much more

In conversation with Claudia of @rewindvintageaffairs on the origins of Rewind, early Ebay days and travelling across the globe for pieces, the uncertainty of the fashion industry, how the second hand fashion client has changed, Chanel minaudieres, vintage fashion cycles and what influences vintage trends, secondhand shopping advice, being a shoe addict, who to collect for future vintage and so much more

In conversation with Miles Porton of www.juniorGaultier.com and @english_rake on revisiting the Jean Paul Gaultier Jeans and Junior lines of the 80s and 90s, watching Gaultier on Euro Trash, challenging gender norms and silhouettes, the influences and context behind certain pieces and collections, wearing what you like, our thoughts on design rereleases, ideas for a future Gaultier collaborator, the subcultures of the 80s, the costumes for Blade Runner and so much more

In conversation with Alessia of Milan based @shop_the_story on growing up with a mother dressed in Yohji Yamamoto, dancing in Margiela throughout her club era, rewarding herself with Miu Miu shoes during Uni, Dries Van Noten's honourable exit from fashion, her love for Come Des Garcons,  Miuccia Prada referencing the past the right way, Luxury brands cutting off their traditional clientele, the change in attitudes towards vintage in Milan and so much more

In conversation with Hannah of Haut Corporation on creating a space for clothes to be appreciated, how vintage has influenced contemporary markets, the Westwood idea of working with what you've got, being an OG eBay seller, her store in the front night club in the back days, collaborating with @secondlifemarketsuk and the community they've built, her love for markets of all kinds, our stance on influencers, designers, the future of fashion and so much more

In conversation with Jordan, @avintageboy, on why the fashion industry makes us sad, designing for the algorithm, the appeal of Cartier, Tom Ford era Gucci, watches more collectable than Rolex, The Row, 1950s Levis, the influence of Project runway and Rachel zoe, Abercrombie and the O.C, Lindsey Lohan, personal style and so much more

In conversation with Yuji and Tim of Atlantis Vintage, the popular Tokyo destination for vintage designer bags. We get into how Japan became the Mecca for second hand luxury pieces, the origins of Atlantis Vintage, why the biggest luxury secondhand shops in the world source from Japan, the culture around preserving and reselling, the impact the uprise of vintage resellers has had on the Japanese auction houses and prices, the future of vintage and so much more

In conversation with Hippolyte of The Dryads, my absolute favourite curation of vintage sunglasses. We get into how it all started, the value of vintage sunglasses, the manufacturer monopoly, niche eyewear designers, why I am annoyed with modern sunglasses, eyewear trends and so much more

In conversation with Lily of Happy Isles, the ultimate destination for vintage bridal. We get into how it all started, the pressures of sourcing for brides, changing traditions, the new normals, current dress trends, designer discoveries, our fave film wedding dresses and so much more

In conversation with Penelope Silva Miranda of @Documoda on New York and (the first half of) London Fashion week. We deep dive into our favourite shows so far this season, the stories, the details, the reoccurring themes, the things we love ,the things we don't love, what to collect for future vintage and so much more

In conversation with writer and editor Anna Cafolla on Topshop, the shop that changed everything we knew about the fashion industry, from bringing high fashion to the high street, collaborating with new gen designers, cultivating an it girl following, celebrity clientele, runway shows, and catapulting fast fashion as we know it today, Anna and I discuss the beast that once was, both its glory and its downfall. Support this podcast and listen to the full conversation on patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast

In conversation with Gil Linton of Byronesque, on growing up a new romantic in London, the start of Byronesque in 2012, when what was considered vintage changed, the cycle of mass production and reselling, "just because its old doesn't mean its good", the Byronesque manifesto, protecting the future of the vintage market, pricing dynamics in the resale market, exciting new gen fashion designers, what makes an archive popular again, the importance of re-issues, reselling mentality within consumers, what to consider for future vintage and so much more

In conversation with Brady of Vamp Violets, on her journey finding queerness through vintage, vampy femme fatale women muses, 1940s corsetry, wearing a corset underneath her catholic school uniform (WOW AMAZING), Lana Del Rey and all of her influence and allure, the costume in Videodrome, favourite designer, where to shop vintage and go out in LA and so much more

In conversation with Michelle of @forbiddenfruitvintage on Memento Mori jewellery, the desire to stay connected to loved ones after death and the whole indsutry around it during the Victorian era, different types of motifs and their meaning, Art nouveau jewellery and the particular piece designed by Alphonse Mucha and Georges Fouquet for Sarah Bernhardt in 1899, tricks of dating jewellery, changes in materials over time, her favourite films for its costume and so much more

In conversation with Meg of @Apresstudio_ on her approach to making clothes consciously, the reality of starting a brand independently, the care she puts into creating from idea to packaging, sourcing sustainable fabrics and manufacturers, financial risks, brand transparency, how to implement change in mass consumption and production, and so much more

In conversation with Irma of @Rroba on Alexander McQueen and his legacy. The Alexander McQueen skull scarf's decade long run as the accessory must have and its impending revival. What was happening in the later 2000s and why some pieces are circling back around, The indie sleaze aesthetics we'd love and hate to return, new legislations that can make sustainable fashion the new norm, the future of fashion needing scientific proof to go along with their green claims, her favourite collections, coveted pieces and so much more

Episode 42 In conversation with Mari-an Ceo, costume designer of MAXXXINE on her process getting into the world of 1980s Maxine, details in the costumes that deep rooted each character, the difference in designing a horror film, the importance of using true 1980s pieces in the film, favourite places to source costume and inspiration, her journey becoming a costume designer, the subcultures in her surf town growing up in the 70s and 80s, the future of film and fashion and so much more

Support this podcast and get the full episode on patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast Episode 41 in conversation with Costume Designer, Stylist, Collector and Author of Rebel Threads, Roger K. Burton of @contemporarywardrobe, @thehorsehospital, on being a Mod in 1960s England, the exciting beginnings of a fashion subculture and what brings them to an end, the punk era and Kings Road in London, his journey collecting and selling vintage to opening contemporary wardrobe, costume designing for Hackers, styling fashion and music icon David Bowie, and so much more

To support this podcast and listen to the full episode subscribe to the Patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast In conversation with Cherazad of Afterglow on archival Puma shoe styles from the early 00s, the origin of the Puma Mostro and how that shoe changed everything for the brand, the Diesel revival, post covid Cop Copine mania, when life imitates art and your the real life Emily in Paris, everything SSENSE does right, super rare archive Onitsuka Tiger ballerina mules and so much more

Support this podcast and enjoy the full episode on www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast. Episode 39 in conversation with Julian Guevara, the Senior Vice President of Direct to Consumer at legendary New York luxury vintage retailer What Goes Around Comes Around. We get into everything from shopping at hot topic in high school, the sad decline of the mall in America, how the vintage resale market has changed over the past decade, the influence designer bag price increases have on vintage, when celebs have made vintage pieces more desirable, whose got the most influence, the re-release effect, his most coveted piece from the Andre Leon Talley estate sale and so much more

Listen to the full episode and support this Podcast on Patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast. In conversation with Laura of Cheree Cheree on pivoting from fashion design to vintage dealing, her obsession with 90s Emporio Armani, Donna Karen and Miu Miu, how great the colour brown is, her incredible vogue archive that I am dying to look through, the challenge of creating sustainably and so much more

In conversation with Kimberly and Charlotte of Lovers Lane Vintage. When I first went to this store I had to know who was behind it because it is the most memorable collection of vintage pieces I have ever encountered! Episode 37 on the story behind Lovers Lane, it's Portobello Road location, mowing the lawn in Galliano, ignoring trends, favourite designers, the current state of fashion, the ultimate auction find and so much more

Listen to the full episode and support this podcast on Patreon

Support this podcast and get the full Episode on Pattern: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast In conversation with David of @Winning.and.Losing on David's favourite designers from the turn of the century such as Callot Soeurs, Lucy Lady Duff Gordon, Frederick Worth and Mariano Fortuny and his wife Henriette Negrin, dating methods for antique clothing, selling at Brimfield, old dying methods, going to auctions and so much more!

In conversation with Madalyn Newell of @madalynnewell on championing women through her sustainable personal shopping business, thrifting her clients the best quality vintage she can get her hands on, authenticating bags at The Real Real, the insane decline in designer handbag quality, big corps and the rising prices of thrift stores, dipping into trends, her most requested style inspos and so much more

Listen to the full episode and support this podcast here: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast In conversation with Sherin of London based Outsourced Vintage on quality and affordability, the generations of Hungarian women her shop is rooted in, the early days of Depop, wearing Tabis outside of a city, Overconsumption and clothing hauls, the vicious cycle lot newness, the slit neck top and so much more

Listen to the full episode and support this podcast on www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast. Episode 32, In Conversation with Olivia Haroutounian of @shop_reallifeasliv, on being born into vintage collecting, we deep dive into her obsession with Michael and Hushi, her love for niche designers of the late 90s and early 00s that were based in New York, vintage t shirts, Liz Collins, Gary Graham, Patricia Field, Sex and The City and so much more

Listen to the full episode here: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast Episode 31 in conversation with Tanya of @Tanyar on her incredible teenage success story as a photographer, her journey with creating content and entering a world of sustainability, learning about vintage and her growing love for it, creating a space for South Asian women in fashion, saying no to fast fashion brand partnerships, checking the sustainability reports on brands and so much more

I am so happy to celebrate 30 episodes in conversation with Colin and Brandon of James Veloria! I have been shopping with James Veloria since before there notorious Chinatown mall shop (which has now became a bicoastal babe). To me, they changed the game of vintage, offering a curation of desirable and affordable designer vintage at a time when that was hard to come by. We get into their personal stories that brought them to vintage, the early days of Ebay selling, hilarious sourcing stories, the Chinatown mall location, favourite designers, the community they've cultivated, New York vs LA style, the future of fashion and so much more

Listen to the full episode on www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast In conversation with Steve of @lordwarg and @housewnyc, one of the biggest Jean Paul Gaultier and Vivienne Westwood collectors. We deep dive into the life and work of Jean Paul Gaultier, one of the top designers desired by vintage shoppers, the legacy of Gaultier is far more than a printed mesh, and what better person to celebrate him with? Steve also gets into his memories of fashion growing up in France, his journey with collecting, the tone of Demna's work for Balenciaga in comparison to Gaultier back in the day, the future of fashion transparency and so much more

Listen to the full epsidoe on Patreon: www.patreon.com/cantnotpodcast Episode 28, in conversation with Celia of Sacrificium, we deep dive into the life and work of one of her favourite designers, Yoshiki Hishinuma, looking back at his journey into fashion, his costume design work, some of his notable textile innovations and designs (there are so many!), his fusion of synthetics and nature, Celia's research of designers inspired by the organic world, why she loves 1980s Vogue Italia, and so much more