Conversation with a chef

There's something genuinely uplifting about sitting down with someone who's spent over forty years in hospitality and still lights up when they talk about food. That's Darryl Hand. He's been in kitchens since the days of Hilton Melbourne's grand dining rooms in the '80s, cooked for queens and rock stars, and seen hotel dining evolve from silver service to share plates and open kitchens. But what's most striking is that he still exudes pure, uncomplicated joy when he talks about cooking. He's the Executive Chef overseeing not one but two new hotels in the heart of Melbourne: Hotel Indigo and Holiday Inn on Little Collins and yet he is still the guy who gets excited about discovering a different kind of prawn in Sicily and wishing we could get them here.

Francesca Giorgi Monfort didn't set out to become Melbourne's most interesting pie maker. The Swiss-born chef's path has been anything but straightforward: from PR and art galleries in London to restaurant management in Europe, and finally to the kitchen where she found her true calling. After working at Farmer's Daughters, Marion and heading the kitchen at Noisy Ritual, Fran decided to do things her own way. What began as an experiment with puff pastry has become Frankie's Pie Shop, a cult favourite at the Carlton Farmers' Market known for pies with personality. Her cauliflower cheese pie, inspired by a Tesco recipe but elevated with charred vegetables and proper technique, is a perfect example of her ethos: simple done brilliantly. For now, she's beginning a residency at Superette on Sydney Road in Brunswick, selling two flavours of pies and two sausage rolls every day. I met Fran at Superette and am especially grateful for her patience. It was my first video podcast, and she couldn't have been more generous as we talked about pastry that gets more rest than she does, the quiet resilience behind Frankie's, and her belief that vegetarian pies can, and should, be far more than vegetable stew.

Sincero in Malvern is the second restaurant from chef Mirco Speri and the team behind Buono in Parkdale. While Buono captures the easy warmth of a bayside trattoria, Sincero brings a quieter confidence to Glenferrie Road. Open since April 2024, it's already known for what Mirco calls Italian my way: familiar flavours, local produce, and the occasional twist; like seaweed inguine with Moreton Bay bugs and blood orange jelly. Mirco has spent three decades cooking around the world, from Michelin-starred kitchens in Europe to Melbourne's evolving dining scene. At Sincero, that experience shows in food that feels both grounded and instinctive. He's not chasing trends or nostalgia; he's cooking with sincerity, curiosity, and the kind of calm assurance that only comes from doing something you truly love. buymeacoffee.com/conversationwithachef

Today I'm chatting with Anuj Sanghi, who's opened Bar Mercado on Peel Street, right across from the Queen Victoria Market. The name Mercado means “market” in Spanish, and that's really the heart of what Anuj has created, a place for people to gather, share food, drink, stories, and cultures. Every morning he walks over to the market to hand-pick his produce, chatting with the traders and letting what he finds inspire the day's menu. The food at Bar Mercado is a vibrant mix of South American, Spanish and Latin flavours; think wood-fired chorizo with chimichurri, oysters with chilli and lime granita, slow-cooked lamb sandwiches and churros with dark chocolate. It's not fine dining, but you can feel the finesse of someone who's worked at places like Maha, Rockpool and Entrecôte. Anuj moved from Delhi to Melbourne to study at Le Cordon Bleu and never looked back. We talked about how his mum inspired his love of food, what he's learned from his mentors, and how he's building something that feels like community.

Atta in Albert Park has quietly and confidently become one of Melbourne's most enduring modern Indian restaurants. It's been ten years since it opened, which is no small feat in this city, and behind it all is chef and owner Harry Dhanjal. Harry has spent that decade redefining how we think about Indian cuisine, balancing innovation and tradition, respecting the roots of each dish while bringing them to life in a contemporary, elegant way. Atta isn't fusion, as Harry says, it's modern Indian: thoughtful, beautiful, and deeply grounded in flavour and culture. We talked about the early days of Atta and what it took to get people to see Indian food differently, the fine line between innovation and tradition, and why for Harry, being a chef is as much about discipline and joy as it is about technique.

When I walked into Aegli in South Melbourne, the first thing I noticed was the light: soft, golden, everywhere. Then I met Ioannis Kasidokostas, and it makes even more sense. Aegli was a goddess, Yanni tells me: elegant, dazzling, radiant, and that's exactly what he's built here. The space, the food, the feeling. Yanni doesn't see hospitality as a job. He calls it a culture. It's about philoxenia, the Greek art of making a stranger feel like they've come home. It's there in how he talks about his team, the way he refuses to rush a service, and the stories woven through every dish. We talked about patience, trust, and what it means to build something that glows from the inside out. We talked about a raw prawn and nectarine dish that started as a lesson from his fisherman grandfather, a 90-day kopanisti that's worth the wait, and a philosophy that Greek cuisine doesn't need to reinvent itself, it just needs to remember where it came from. Aegli means light, but it's also warmth. And I think that's exactly what Yanni is serving. This was a wonderful conversation and I feel all the better for having met Yanni and chatted with him.

Today I'm chatting with Rachel Miyazaki from Niji Sweets. If you've walked through Queen Vic Market lately, you might have stopped in your tracks at a stall that looks more like a jewellery counter than a lolly stand: trays of shimmering kohakutou, those jewel-like Japanese sweets that catch the light and your imagination all at once. Rachel trained as a pastry chef, working everywhere from LuxBite to Marvel Stadium, but with Niji Sweets she and her friend Yiying are doing something entirely different. We talked about how a childhood love of baking, a detour through computer studies, and a trip to Japan all converged on these edible crystals. From the patient, days-long process of crystallising agar to the thrill of seeing someone's face light up when they bite through that crunchy shell into soft jelly, Rachel is bringing something rare and beautiful to Melbourne and I am very happy to have had the opportunity to sit down with her and hear all about it.

When Luke's Bánh Mì opened in the CBD, the response was extraordinary. Queues ran down Little Bourke Street, and more than 1,200 bánh mì were sold that first day. In fact, customers were averaging two or three each, so the real number was far higher. I went to the preview and then couldn't resist coming back the very next day just to see it all unfold. I even filmed the line, and for the first time ever, something I posted went viral. But the real story is bigger than one opening. Luke Vu is a third-generation Vietnamese baker whose journey began in his family's bakery in Ho Chi Minh City, with memories of wood-fired bread and early morning deliveries on his bike. After moving to Melbourne and completing a university degree, Luke still couldn't shake the pull of the bakery. The lure of bread, pâté and pickles was too strong, and he soon set up his own shop, first in Reservoir, then in Moonee Ponds and South Melbourne, where the bánh mì quickly became local fixtures. That history, and the hard work behind every detail, made the leap into the city all the more powerful.

Collingwood has no shortage of bars, but Babines stands out, thanks to the two Juliens behind it, Julien Pascal and Julien Wurtlin. When I first ducked in not long after they opened a year and a half ago (on the recommendation of a French friend, naturally), I was hooked: the cocktails, the anchovy toasts, the way the place already felt like it belonged. Since then, the pair have kept shaping and reshaping the space themselves into something great; renovations, late nights, a little trial and error. What started as a cocktail bar has grown into a neighbourhood dining room, where you can order salt cod fritters with that sharp little Caribbean sauce, or a Victorian hanger steak that rivals anything in France. The drinks list shifts with the seasons, equal parts French roots and Melbourne edge, and the late-night kitchen has made Babines a magnet for the industry crowd. I sat down with both Juliens to hear how they pulled it off: the DIY headaches, the Collingwood quirks, and why taking their time was the best decision they made.

I've spoken to Sunny Gilbert at Melbourne's Hofbrauhaus before and it was such a delight to catch up with him again, especially at this time of year. He'd just flown back from Munich, where Oktoberfest really is as big, loud and joyful as everyone says: ten beer tents, each crammed with 10,000 people, steins thudding on tables, bands lifting whole crowds onto benches. Back in Melbourne, at Hofbrauhaus, Sunny and his team are keeping that spirit alive all October: bigger bands, stronger beer, stein-holding contests, and plenty of schnitzel and knuckle to go around. Get your Dirndls and Lederhosen on and let's go! Now, I have a spring head cold, so I apologise for my voice. I'd like to think it sounds resonant and alluring, but I am fairly certain it just sounds like I have a cold. The show must go on.

Lorcán Kan has one of those reputations that precedes him, not in the loud, headline-grabbing way, but in the quiet way that matters more. Mention his name to other chefs and their response is usually the same: “He's such a lovely guy.” Kan, now head chef at Etta in Brunswick East, carries that reputation with the same understated composure he brings to food. Born in Donegal to an Irish-Malaysian family and in Melbourne since he was one, Kan grew up resisting his dad's Malaysian cooking (hot dogs seemed more appealing at the time) before circling back to it as comfort food. His path has been anything but linear: New York fine dining, German art studios, years of travel guided by one-way tickets and kitchen doors that opened when he knocked. He's studied food science to answer the “why” questions, explored fermentation before it was fashionable, and learned that creative control is as much about restraint as it is about freedom. At Etta, his cooking sits at that intersection; comforting but restless, grounded but curious, waste-aware but playful. Talking with Kan feels like talking to someone who still finds wonder in the work. He's calm, thoughtful, and very much the real deal.

I'm upstairs at Eleni's Kitchen in Yarraville with Eleftheria Amanatidis. The room feels like a taverna: a criss cross of dark beams, low light, and the sense that food is at the centre of everything. Eleftheria has captured not just the dishes of her Yiayias and Papous, but the atmosphere too: the smells, the rituals, the family gathered around a table. Hospitality runs in Eleftheria's blood: her family opened Yarraville's first Greek restaurant opposite the Sun Theatre in the '70s, back when Greek films screened on weekends and the jukebox played until late. That history of feeding Melbourne's Greek community is part of what she carries forward now.Her recently launched book Ela na Fáme (Come and Eat) is both a collection of recipes and a love letter to that heritage; filo rolled thin with patience, pork and cabbage stew simmering on a winter's day, and the call that anchored her childhood: “Come and eat.” While we were talking, her Yiayia Eleni wandered upstairs to look at old photos, a reminder that in Greek kitchens, the past is always at the table.

When I first spoke to Kyle Nicol back in late 2020, he was head chef at Rascal, and Melbourne was lurching in and out of lockdown. He was already thinking deeply about sustainability in kitchens, not just in terms of produce, but of chefs themselves. Five years on, Kyle's covered a lot of ground: Lilac, Hazel, a string of pop-ups, consulting, foraging, and even a side project in charcuterie. He's also hit burnout, had knee surgery, and taken a step back to reset. What hasn't changed is his generosity, both in cooking and in spirit. Kyle's the kind of chef other chefs call when they need help, the one who'll share knowledge, jump on a service, or roll pasta at home just because. We caught up to talk about balance, identity in hospitality, and what it means to give your all without giving yourself away.

Brooke is a pastry chef with a flair for precision and a competitive streak that's taken her from Sydney kitchens to the World Food Championships in Indianapolis, where her buttermilk cheesecake earned her third place in the world for dessert. She's now preparing to return in October to take out the top spot all while juggling recipe testing, private chef gigs, and her educational platform Capture the Chef as well as packing her own sugar for the competition because, as she puts it, “Australian sugar tastes better.” Talking to her when she was in Melbourne, I got the sense of someone who thrives on high stakes but carries it lightly: meticulous yet unflappable, and deeply in love with sharing food and technique with anyone curious enough to watch.

The name Odette House came to Jojo Parkinson at 4.30 in the morning. Later, she discovered it meant “prosperous,” which felt right for a venue with three distinct levels: an all-day café downstairs, Uday restaurant upstairs, and a rooftop bar with a view of the city. Uday means “sunrise” in Sanskrit, a nod to new beginnings. Over her ceremonial-grade Matcha on a Cloud, Jojo spoke about building a neighbourhood space, steering clear of the word “fusion,” and keeping a loyal team by her side for nearly a decade.

Joe Vargetto has turned his restaurant into a truffle wonderland. Step inside Mr Bianco's little bar, Bianchetto right now and you'll find moss, fairy lights, oak leaves, and, if you're lucky, a truffle-hunting spaniel on duty. Some chefs talk about truffles as a luxury. Joe talks about them as if they're alive, creatures that seduce trees, steal nutrients and transform the soil they grow in, but he'll also describe them as magical. He'll tell you they work just as well on a toasted cheese sandwich as they do on a tasting menu. There are plenty of restaurants in Melbourne celebrating truffle season, but only Joe thought to bring the farm indoors. I always love catching up with Joe. He's so generous with what he shares, and he really wants to share everything. We roamed the restaurant, taking in the enchanted forest in Bianchetto, which means white truffle in Italian, the Staub range of ‘white truffle' crockery Joe is working with for this venture and upstairs to see the photo from 2001 when he took part in the Bocuse d'Or, encouraged by his friend and mentor, Philippe Mouchel, and of which one of the sponsors was Staub. Long story short, it is all very serendipitous and absolutely charming.

In Carnegie, there's a little patisserie turning out some of the most beautiful cakes in Melbourne. Tommy Er's T6 Patisserie has been open just over a year and already has a loyal following, very definitely including me. Tommy's pastries are French in style but layered with the flavours he grew up with in Southeast Asia. There's pandan sponge with custard inspired by his great-grandmother's onde-onde, mango lime cheesecake, glossy, precise cakes that look almost too perfect to eat - definitely eat them - and a Hazelnut Rocher cake that tastes exactly like the chocolate it's named after; a crowd favourite and Tommy's personal pick. Tommy has been in kitchens since he was 13, learning both Malaysian and French techniques, and still tests and tweaks every creation until it's exactly how he wants it. It turns out that Tommy's secret ingredient isn't pandan or chocolate or caramel, but patience.

The drive into The Dining Room At Lancemore Lindenderry in Red Hill takes you past rows of vines and manicured gardens that open out to 38 acres of rolling lawns, a tennis court, wood-fired hot tubs and 41 elegant rooms. It's the sort of place you can settle into for the weekend or drive down for lunch and wish you'd booked a room. In the kitchen is executive chef Nick McGonigal. He started cooking at Red Scooter Events before moving into Melbourne institution Cecconi's, before crossing the world to spend two years as chef de partie at Brett Graham's three-Michelin-starred restaurant The Ledbury. Back in Australia, he cooked at Bentley Restaurant and Bar in Sydney, before moving home to Melbourne and working at Society then Paringa Estate. Ten years after his apprenticeship, he's leading the kitchen at Lindenderry. We talked about the move from winter to spring, a citrus and lavender dessert served with a burst of liquid nitrogen, the balance between creativity and spreadsheets, and why the story behind an ingredient matters to him.

I had dinner at The George Hotel in South Melbourne the night before this conversation, and I'm still thinking about that prawn toast. The parma came on the bone, the romesco on the pumpkin was deeply smoky, and the vibe was spot on. Fire crackling, carpet slightly retro, and classic pub food done with care, generosity, and just the right amount of zhuzh. Usually on this podcast I speak to chefs, but hospitality goes far beyond the kitchen. My guest today is someone who's been quietly transforming the pub scene across Victoria. Scott Connolly is a publican, but not the kind who simply owns the building and turns up for the soft launch. He's a former actor and musician who's worked every inch of the floor and now oversees venues like the Healesville Hotel, the Orrong, and most recently, The George. We talked about pub culture, people, parmas, carpets, and what it means to be a custodian of these places that mean so much to so many.

Two years after our first conversation, Pawan Dutta has made the kitchen at The Royce Hotel entirely his own. The Showroom Bar still gleams. The menu is bolder, with flavours that travel from Peru to France and back again, yet nothing feels forced. He's as hands-on as ever, still on the pans, still chasing that perfect balance of craft and instinct. We talk about how the team has evolved, the trust that keeps the kitchen running smoothly, and why hotel restaurants like this deserve to be taken seriously.

Stéphane Nguyen is the founder of the French Cooking Academy alongside his wife, Kate. Stephane has built a global following by teaching classic French techniques in a way that actually makes sense: clear, methodical, and with a real focus on understanding the why behind each step. But it didn't start there. Stéphane moved to Australia, missed French food, tried to make a Boeuf Bourguignon and realised he actually had no idea how. So he taught himself, using proper French culinary textbooks, and documented the whole process. What started as a personal project is now a full-blown online cooking school with thousands of students from around the world. We talked about everything from confidence in the kitchen to why a sieve might be the most underrated tool you own. We talked about how the Academy came to be, what it means to build confidence in the kitchen, and why the simplest dishes are often the hardest to get right.

If Pepe's Italian & Liquor is all swagger and spectacle: snow machines, themed decor, and a big personality, then Pepe's Parlour offers something quieter and more composed. The original venue opened in 2019 in a former synagogue on Exhibition Street, serving Italian American classics in a space that leans into old-school New York glamour. Next door, Pepe's Parlour channels the elegance of a London members' club, softened by a Melbourne sensibility: martinis, soft light, hand-painted tomato murals. It's also where Antonio Loffredo is doing quietly brilliant things in the kitchen. Antonio grew up in Campania and then the Amalfi Coast and started making pizza in his father's shop at 16. He has worked across just about every section of a kitchen since arriving in Melbourne more than a decade ago. Now head chef at the Parlour, he's turning out focaccia made from a slow-fermented dough, fresh pasta, and light, lunch-friendly plates that still manage to feel generous. We talked about the emotional pull of food, why he won't use bread with a 15-ingredient label, and how a baking course during lockdown completely reshaped the way he cooks.

It's not every day you get to have a chat in a former ship's chandlery from the 1860s, but that's exactly where I found myself with Dan Livingstone, chef, self-taught cook, ex-pop songwriter, and co-owner of The Chandlery in Port Melbourne. I first met Dan at one of his collaborative events a few weeks ago, a night of incredible wine, thoughtful food, and genuine connection. In this episode, we talk about how his creative path led from music studios to fire-fuelled kitchens, the philosophy behind zero-waste catering, and how vegetables cooked over flames can be just as thrilling as meat. We also talk about the realities of running events, building community, and finding meaning in the stories behind every ingredient. Dan's approach is generous, grounded and deeply human.

Mike McEnearney doesn't follow trends. He follows his gut, his growers, and the seasons. He's worked in some of the world's toughest kitchens, cooked for Damien Hirst, and lived off the land in rural Wales. He opened Kitchen by Mike in a converted factory canteen in Sydney's CBD, another Kitchen by Mike at the International Airport and will soon open one in the National Gallery of Australia in Canberra. He has been the Creative Director of Carriageworks Farmers Market for the last ten years and now brings that same produce-led simplicity to From Here by Mike at Melbourne's newly opened 1 Hotel. His approach is thoughtful, grounded and refreshingly direct, much like the man himself.

You can tell a lot about a chef by how they talk about repetition. For Aaron, it's not tedious, it's essential. He grew up in Perth, found his culinary footing in a small seafood kitchen, and went on to cook in some of London's most intense and celebrated restaurants. Now heading up the kitchen at O'Connell's Hotel in South Melbourne, Aaron brings with him the calm authority of someone who's done the hard yards. Aaron's career spans Michelin-starred restaurants, big-name mentors like Jason Atherton and Shane Osborn, and some of Melbourne's best-known venues like Cumulous, Scott Pickett's restaurants as well as Oakridge Winery. He still keeps recipe notebooks, mostly lists of ingredients, and draws inspiration from everywhere: books, produce, places, memory. And after all these years, he still genuinely loves being in the kitchen. That short, sharp burst of service? It's where he feels most at home.

II.II.VI is freshly open and in soft launch mode at the time of recording, which means the team is still getting into the rhythm of service and the full menu isn't live yet. The grills haven't yet been installed, which is significant, because open flame cooking is central to what head chef Haitham Richani has planned. I sat down with Haitham and executive chef Kerry Lam to talk about the thinking behind the restaurant. Haitham has worked in both front and back of house, and that range of experience has shaped everything; from kitchen layout to the way the team works together. Kerry is also behind Ministry of Crab upstairs, and at II.II.VI, he's given Haitham the reins to create something new. We talked about designing kitchens that actually make sense, the role of team input, how seasonal produce drives creativity, and why a notebook can be as valuable as a knife roll.

This week I sat down with Alberto Borghi of Del Bocia Butter, although calling it “butter” barely covers it. This is butter with soul, butter with story. I first came across Alberto's work at DOC in St Kilda, where a seaweed butter and a very memorable Alfredo pasta got me hooked. I imagined the maker must be an old Italian man with a wooden churn…and then I found Alberto on Instagram. Not an old man. No wooden churn in sight. But every bit as traditional as you'd hope, and just as passionate. From 30 kilos a week made in a shared kitchen with a planetary mixer to importing and restoring vintage machines from the Dolomites, Alberto's journey is full of energy, joy, and a stubborn devotion to quality. He talks about butter like some people talk about wine or poetry. And I'm here for it.

Giorgio Linguanti arrived in Australia from Sicily with no English, no cheese-making experience, and no plans to start a dairy empire, and yet, here we are. That's Amore Cheese, the company he founded, is now beloved across the country and beyond our shores for its fresh, authentic Italian cheeses, from silky ricotta to smoky scamorza, and of course, the show-stealing burrata. Giorgio introduced burrata to the Australian market and has built his business and his reputation on passion, perseverance, and a very good palate. I last saw Giorgio at the launch of his Burrata book, the first and only book in the world dedicated to this pillowy, cream-filled cheese. It's not just a collection of recipes, though those are glorious; it's also a deep dive into the backstory of burrata; its history, its evolution, and the politics of production in its birthplace, Puglia. I sat down with Giorgio in his Thomastown HQ, to talk about how the book came together, what happened when he went looking for burrata's origins, and why he believes obstacles are often just gentle nudges in a better direction.

Dario Di Clerico's culinary story began at just 14, when he first stepped into a professional kitchen in his native Italy. Since then, he's forged a path defined by talent, grit and unshakeable passion. He trained under the youngest (at the time) Michelin-starred chef in the UK, refining his skills in high-pressure kitchens and learning what it takes to lead with precision and creativity. When he moved to Australia, Dario brought that same energy and expertise with him, quickly making his mark on the local food scene. Now at the helm of Cannoleria and the Burrata Bar, he's not only delighting diners with playful takes on Italian classics, he's also inspiring a new generation of chefs. In this episode, we talk about his deep respect for tradition, his inventive streak (yes, there has been a Vegemite and parmesan cannolo), and what it means to build something meaningful in the ever-evolving world of food.

When Ian Ho was a kid growing up in Malaysia, he dreamed of being a firefighter, not for the danger or the drama, but because he lived next to a fire station and from what he could see, they got to play sport all day. Fast forward a few decades and, while there are fewer games and more spreadsheets, he is still putting out fires, in a metaphorical sense in day-to-day life in the kitchen. Ian's culinary journey has taken him through some impressive venues, including Lamaros, Copycat and Taxi Kitchen where he worked alongside the legendary Tony Twitchett. Now, he's the executive chef overseeing a diverse trio of venues: Anada, Arcadia Café and The Rochey. It's a full plate; literally and figuratively. What stood out most from talking to Ian is his ability to balance creativity with practicality. He leads with clear systems but brings a quiet warmth to the kitchen, adapting his style to suit the team around him. There's a calm, clever energy about him and he strikes me as someone who genuinely cares about doing food well, without fuss or ego.

Step into Bar Magnolia on Sydney Road and you're wrapped in it straight away: the low golden light, the easy murmur of good conversation, the quiet thrill of something thoughtful happening behind the bar. Co-owners chef Mia Coady-Plumb and winemaker Lawrence Scanlon have created a space where classic French technique flickers with wit, soul, and a little rebellion. Mia's food, which she calls "irreverent" French, honours tradition but never feels bound by it, each plate carrying a beautiful, unexpected spark. Before stepping into Melbourne's dining scene, Mia sharpened her skills in some of Sydney's most celebrated two- and three-hatted kitchens, later moving to Melbourne to help open much-loved Town Mouse before bringing her talents to Cutler and Co, Anchovy, Lune, and Smith and Daughters, amongst others. I pulled up a stool at the bar to talk with Mia about Magnolia, about instinct and flavour, and about why a little mischief might just be tradition's best friend. We also talked about the reality of chef life and running a small business. This was an incredible chat, and I loved every minute of it.

Guillaume Zika began his career in some of France's most revered Michelin-starred kitchens, honing his craft in Paris and the south of France before moving on to Per Se in New York and Hibiscus in London. Australia became the next chapter, first as head chef at the iconic Cottage Point Inn in the Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park on Sydney's northern edge, then as Executive Chef at Burleigh Pavilion, where he led a team of 60. Today, Guillaume is channelling his focus into Chef Notepad, the software he designed to streamline recipe communication, food costing, food waste and team management, a system built by a chef who understands exactly what kitchens need. Never one to shy away from a challenge, he's also set himself the ambitious personal goal of running 2025 kilometres in 2025. I very happily sat down to chat with Guillaume on a rooftop in Prahran as the sun set over the city.

Today, I'm speaking with Kate and Bryan, the team behind Ciao Cielo in Port Melbourne. We talk about how they adapted through Covid, how their vision for the restaurant has evolved, and what it takes to keep things moving in a fast-changing hospitality world. From sourcing ingredients to managing a busy service, it's clear their passion for what they do hasn't wavered. I first visited Ciao Cielo back in 2018, not long after they opened in their new home, the beautifully restored Port Melbourne courthouse. There was something immediately striking about the space: grand but welcoming, with a sense of purpose and care behind every detail. That balance of warmth and precision seems to echo what Kate and Bryan aim for in the kitchen and on the floor. A lot has changed on the hospo landscape since then, but their commitment to thoughtful, generous hospitality is as strong as ever, as is their limoncello, which they make in-house and insist you try. It's just one small example of the way they do things properly, with heart.

When I first asked Daniel Migliaccio at Studio Amaro for a chat, he politely declined: not one for the media spotlight, he said. But persistence pays off, and second time lucky, I found myself at Studio Amaro with a chef who's been quietly steering the ship across Commune Group kitchens for nearly seven years. From teenage dishwasher in Ferntree Gully to Grossi-trained pasta guy to Hanoi Hannah's head chef and beyond, Daniel's journey is less about chasing fame and more about feeding people well, mentoring his crew, and yes, finding strange joy in spreadsheets.

Every now and then, you meet people who radiate such generosity, such quiet brilliance, that you walk away feeling a little bit better about the world. Chae and Yoora, the couple behind the tiny six-seat Korean restaurantChaein the hills of Cockatoo, are exactly those kinds of people.This is a restaurant where time is the main ingredient. Years go into the ferments, and the big clay jars sitting outside, quietly brewing flavour, take up more than just physical space; they represent a completely different way of thinking about food and business. The intimacy is part of the experience: Chae, calmly plating at the bench, Yoora quietly attentive to everything else. It began humbly, in their Brunswick apartment, with Chae just giving it a go. But beneath that quiet start was a deep well of skill, philosophy and soul. ​ Now, I have a confession. This was actually the second time I sat down to record this episode. The first time, I drove out, I had a beautiful, thoughtful conversation with Chae and Yoora, drove home, and, poof. The recording vanished. Gone. A technical glitch, or maybe just the podcast gods keeping me humble. But Chae, being the gracious human she is, invited me back. And I'm so glad she did, because this chat, take two, feels even more special.

From the bustling streets of Naples to the top of Melbourne's pizza scene, Mariano De Giacomi is a pizzaiolo who lives and breathes his craft. Raised in a tight-knit family with five children and few resources, Mariano began working at the age of nine, lugging shopping bags from a local deli to neighbours' homes. His path into pizza began not with flour and fire, but with washing dishes and salvaging dough bound for the bin, training himself, quietly and obsessively, on scraps. In Naples, he spent over a decade mastering the art of pizza at Umberto, an acclaimed pizzeria and founding member of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana, or True Neapolitan Pizza Association, where he developed a deep knowledge of dough science and fermentation. It was here he met Johnny Di Francesco of 400 Gradi, who later invited him to Melbourne. Mariano went on to become the Executive Chef for the Gradi Group, training an entire generation of Melbourne's pizza makers and helping build one of the city's most iconic pizza empires. Now, with his own venture, Made a Napoli, Mariano brings the show to you: mobile pizza ovens, silent disco headsets, and even his kids spinning dough at events.

There's something grounded and quietly assured about Adam Sanderson. Maybe it's the way he talks about kitchens as places of belonging. Or maybe it's the way his journey, which began in the north of England, has moved through some of the most celebrated dining rooms in the world: The Fat Duck, where creativity and precision dance together, and Noma in Copenhagen, where he learned to see ingredients through a new lens. When Adam landed in Melbourne, he felt the pulse of the city straight away; its openness, its energy, its love of food and something clicked. Now, as executive chef at Maison Batard, he's found a space where all those experiences can come together. Maison Batard is a layered, generous space set across four floors and for me exudes French style and sensibilities. The menu features reimagined French classics, a potato omelette topped with caviar, rotisserie chicken with green olives, and a chocolate mousse served at the table with just the right amount of theatre. It's a place that celebrates flavour, hospitality, and the quiet confidence of a chef who knows exactly where he is. I chatted with Adam in Le Club which is the basement burlesque bar of Maison Batard. It is all sumptuous red with velvet draping and intimate booths and at the time of day we were there, it's the quietest place to be in Maison Batard. Photography: Pete Dillon

Daniel welcomed me into the ‘red room' at Bang Bang's newest venue in St Kilda. Although it's only been open a few weeks, Bang Bang St Kilda already has a following. As executive chef and now a full partner in the Bang Bang group, Daniel oversees three restaurants and two additional kitchens across Melbourne's southeast. His chef career has come full circle, as he met his wife in St Kilda and they travelled to London to work for two years before coming back to Melbourne and moving to the Mornington Peninsula with their young family. Daniel still loves spending time in the kitchen, but his focus is now on maintaining consistency across the venues. Bang Bang's menu is Pan-Asian, drawing from Japan, Thailand, and India. Inspired by his travels, Daniel refines the menu while keeping beloved staples intact, striking a balance between authenticity and modern execution.

Callum Nugent might be relatively new to Stokehouse Pasta & Bar, but he's no stranger to high-pressure kitchens. Since stepping into his first official head chef role in December, he's embraced the challenge with enthusiasm. His love of food started young; he remembers being glued to TV cooking shows at just three years old and spending time in the kitchen with his mum, nonna, and godmother. With experience at places like Chateau Yering, Dinner by Heston Blumenthal and a formative 18 month stage in San Sebastian when he was 19, Callum has shaped his leadership style around balance: precision and creativity, discipline and support. He's passionate about keeping his team inspired, changing the menu every two weeks, and making sure hospitality is as rewarding for those in the kitchen as it is for those at the table.

Cameron Tay-Yap didn't really set out to be a chef, initially cooking for his family was a way to avoid doing his homework. But in secondary school, he took a chance on hospitality, and a friendly rivalry with a classmate pushed him to take food seriously. That competitive streak led to a stage at Attica, where he found his rhythm in the high-stakes world of fine dining. Since then, he has travelled and spent time as the head chef at Amaru. But his latest venture, Pebble at La Roca, is something different. What began as a pop-up in a car park evolved into a space where Cameron could step back, experiment, and bring people together—though, true to form, his “relaxed” project still involves weekly menu changes and exacting standards. Cameron reflects on his journey, the discipline of top-tier kitchens, and why, after a decade in fine dining, rustic cooking is harder than it looks. Generous with his insights, he shares here what the industry has taught him—not just about food, but about patience, compassion, and the kind of leadership that brings out the best in a team.

Johnny Ly has been the head chef at Green Man's Arms for five and a half years, bringing creativity and passion to plant-based cooking. His journey began at University House at Melbourne Uni, where he completed his apprenticeship and worked for a decade, gaining experience across a variety of cuisines. After stints at RACV fine dining and vegan eateries like The Alley and Serotonin Eatery, he was drawn back to restaurant-style dining, ultimately landing at Green Man's Arms. Johnny takes an innovative approach to plant-based food, reimagining classic dishes while accommodating dietary needs. He credits his mother for sparking his love of food and fosters a collaborative kitchen where his team shares in the creative process. For Johnny, food is deeply personal; a way to evoke memories, bring people together, and create something meaningful.

Dan Lidgard has always known he was meant to be a chef. Growing up in Mt Maunganui, New Zealand, he was drawn to the kitchen from an early age and never looked back. His career has taken him through some of Australia's best restaurants, including Stokehouse and Attica, where he honed his skills and developed his own bold, produce-driven style. Now, as executive chef at Patsy's, Bau Bau, and Bistro Elba, he's creating dishes that are fun, fresh, and packed with flavour. It is obvious from talking with Dan that he loves cooking and can't imagine doing anything else. He kept popping up on my radar as other chefs mentioned him in glowing terms and then I read Broadsheet's recent article about the ‘cool' chefs cooking in Bouldering Gym carparks. Dan is one of them, joining mate and founder of Pebble at La Roca, Cameron Tay-Yap this Sunday to cook up an Italian feast. It was high time I chatted to Dan and I am so glad I did.

Simon Cassar has always been immersed in food, working in hospo from a young age and then as an editor at Urban List, where he wrote about Melbourne's dining scene. Now he is the owner of his own pizza shop. His journey from writer to pizzaiolo wasn't immediate. He spent time working at DOC in Mornington, running pop-ups in Sorrento, Flinders and over summer at Quealy Wines in Balnarring, and obsessively refining his dough. Inspired by a hybrid pizza style he encountered in New York and London, Simon aims to strike a balance between Neapolitan tradition and the crisp, structured slices of New York. Now, after years of honing his craft, he's taking the plunge with a bricks-and-mortar space, where he'll keep things simple: a tight menu, top-quality local ingredients, and a deep commitment to making great pizza.

Michael Lambie is a renowned chef and restaurateur who has significantly influenced Melbourne's dining scene since the late 1990s. Originally from the UK, Lambie trained under esteemed chefs, including Marco Pierre White and Alain Roux, before relocating to Australia. In Melbourne, he made his mark with establishments such as Stokehouse, Circa at The Prince, Taxi Dining Room, and Lucy Liu. After selling Lucy Liu in 2020 and a brief period in Queensland, Lambie returned to Melbourne to open Juni in late 2024. Named in honour of his late mother, June, Juni offers a contemporary pan-Asian menu which includes dishes that nod to some of Michael's favourites across his career. Michael tells the best stories about chef life in the nineties: wild kitchens, big personalities, and the industry's transformation into what it is today. I loved every minute of this chat, and I could have listened to Michael for hours.

Why doesn't almond milk ever taste like real almonds? That question sent Marialuisa Castrignano on a journey to create Al Naturale, a nut milk company dedicated to making fresh, high-quality almond milk right here in Melbourne. Frustrated by store-bought options that lacked real almond flavour, she set out to craft a pure, additive-free alternative—one where you could actually taste the richness of the almonds. Each nut milk is made with the highest quality of activated nuts. Their bottles include either 20% or 8% almonds, 12% walnut, or 12% hazelnut, filtered water, date and a pinch of salt which makes Al Naturale the best authentic plant-based milk in Australia. A year ago, Marialuisa opened a cafe in St Kilda so that Melburnians could enjoy Al Naturale as part of their daily coffee ritual. Tucked away from the bustle of Fitzroy Street, this café is a serene retreat, bathed in soft green tones and filled with lush greenery. As well as the nut milks, they serve Italian-style breakfast and lunch dishes.

Zac Shearer is a chef with a deep-rooted love for food that started in Tasmania, where his dad was a fisherman and his mum took him on trips to Melbourne's Food and Wine shows. He's been cooking since he was 18, spending time in Melbourne kitchens such as The Lincoln and French Saloon. Now, he's taking on a new challenge—training to be a food studies teacher—while also launching Tiny Bar in Brunswick East with his partner, Jamila. I had been wanting to chat to Zac for a while and now that there's so much happening, it was the perfect time. We talked about his journey, the shift from head chef roles restaurant kitchens to the classroom and a very tiny bar where the kitchen is literally a step from the tables. We also talked about why Tiny Bar is already such a special addition to Melbourne's food scene, a couple of weeks in where it seems to be exactly what everyone was waiting for.

Lyndey Milan is a vibrant force in Australian food, known for her warm personality and deep love of good food and wine. With decades of experience as a TV presenter, cookbook author, and food educator, she's passionate about making cooking accessible and enjoyable. She was the food director at Australian Women's Weekly, has hosted numerous TV shows, and also created Tasting Success, a mentoring program for women chefs. Whether she's sharing recipes, hosting culinary tours, or championing Australian produce, her enthusiasm is infectious. Who better to host an exclusive food and wine adventure at this year's Melbourne Food and Wine Festival (MFWF)? This six-day journey in collaboration with Intrepid is billed as a Culinary Adventure and takes you through Melbourne and regional Victoria's best food and wine experiences. From the unmissable World's Longest Lunch to a rare spirits and international cheese tasting in Melbourne and a three-hour degustation aboard The Q Train, this really will be an amazing six days. I was delighted at the opportunity to speak to Lyndey and hear about the tour but also to hear about her career and how she got to where she is today.

For over 30 years, Phillippa Grogan has been a beloved name in Melbourne's food scene. Founder of Phillippa's Bakery, she draws inspiration from her New Zealand childhood and nine formative years with Sally Clarke at her restaurant and foodstore in London. Phillippa is unyielding in her use of top-quality ingredients, traditional recipes and flavour. Phillippa is absolutely all about flavour. Because of that, her creations have been a staple for generations of Melburnians. Walking into her Armadale shop feels like walking into a farmhouse kitchen with its beautiful wooden sideboards and display cabinets full of delicious quiches and breads and the hugely popular cardamom buns. I was delighted to have the chance to sit with Phillippa and hear her story and I will definitely be back very soon for another cardamom bun.

The role of Head of Fermentation is not something you come across every day. In fact, Caitlin Koether is somewhat of a pioneer in this space and holds one of the first such positions in Australia, a role with The Mulberry Group which was uniquely crafted around her expertise. Caitlin's work is all about preservation, finding ways to extend the life of seasonal produce, create new flavours, and reduce waste. Her approach balances creativity and science, turning sometimes imperfect ingredients into something extraordinary. With the resources of Common Ground farm on the Bellarine Peninsula, she works closely with the chefs in the group as well as the farmers to use ingredients that enhance menus in thoughtful ways. From condiments to non-alcoholic beverages, her creations are seamlessly integrated into dishes, showcasing how fermentation can elevate flavour while supporting the planet. I sat down to chat with Caitlin at Little Molli in Abbotsford and then ate a delicious smoked chicken tartine with chickpea miso mayo and pickled celery and drank a striking Miso Wave which is a blue spirulina shake inspired by the look of the Erewhon Coconut Cloud Smoothie. As the first Conversation with a chef for the year, Caitlin has set the bar high. Passionate, articulate and a joy to talk to, Caitlin is one to watch and if I were you, dear listener, I would be getting to Little Molli as quickly as you can to experience the goodness for yourself.

Mordialloc is a vibe and the team from La Cabra are here for it. Set just back from the beach, and only metres from the train station, the latest Mexican addition to the Mordi strip is also La Cabra's ninth and biggest to date. Housed across three levels in a heritage building, complete with a rooftop deck and stunning views across the bay, it is perfect for watching the sunset with a spicy marg in hand. Foodwise, you'll find all the favourites, think chargrilled corn, jalapeno poppers, nachos, quesadillas, and plenty of tacos. I sat down with founders Sherinder Kohli, Derrick Chandra and Joshua Smith on a hot sunny day when the beach was packed, and hundreds of kids were jumping into the sea from the end of the pier. The three friends met through a shared love of hospitality and a desire to create a super fun dining destination. Since 2019 they have created nine such venues and they have plans for even more. And just a little note to the adventurous, anyone who dines at the Mordi La Cabra from 13 January to 30 March, 2025 will go into the draw to win a week-long trip to Mexico. The trip for two includes accommodation, flights and the winners will be taken on a tour of Mexico's iconic Casa Herradura Tequila Distillery, just rack up $50 on your bill and you'll be in with a shot.

Max's Restaurant was the first winery restaurant on the Mornington Peninsula and was started by owner and chef, Max Paganoni in 1994. The views are spectacular. From the dining room, you look out over the vines to Western Port and across to Seal Rock. Max has always been passionate about using and promoting local produce and he has now very happily brought in two equally enthusiastic chefs, Michael Demagistris and Ryan James to work with him at Max's. Michael has worked at top-tier venues, including Jacques Reymond in Melbourne, Alinea and The Publican in Chicago, and Noma in Copenhagen. In 2013, he became a household name as a top four finalist on MasterChef Australia: The Professionals. Over the years, Demagistris has held executive chef roles at places like Sorrento Golf Club and Buckley's Chance and owned his own restaurant East Bar and Dining in Mount Martha. Most recently, he has worked at Polperro Winery and was executive chef with Searoad Ferries and Tarra. Best friend, Ryan considers Michael a mentor, having met him at East Bar and Dining before going on to some of the same venues. These two are absolutely the A team. They hold the same values for cooking and for connection with the community and they are both ecstatic to be cooking at Max's Restaurant. They've worked with farmer and chef, Karl Breese to harvest vegetables they are excited about and they are putting up a degustation menu full of imaginative and delicious twists and turns. I had such a lovely chat with Michael and Ryan and then was treated to some of the snacks and desserts they had told me about. I can't wait to go back to the lush and verdant setting that is Max's Restaurant to share it all with friends.