Podcast appearances and mentions of margo hayes

Fred Nicole's name is synonymous with hard bouldering. The dude is legend, responsible for establishing the world's first V14 and first V15, always while bringing an artistic, quiet approach that has defined the soul of bouldering for over four decades. Today Fred works as a shoe designer for So Ill, and continues to explore the forests of his native Switzerland—among other areas around the world—for new boulders that capture his imagination. But first, Chris shares some stories about an escape to what's arguably the best rock in the country, the New River Gorge.  Our Final Bit is from none other than Margo Hayes, the first woman to climb 5.15. This song is called Jaded and it's off her new album Notes to You. Show Notes Follow Fred Nicole on Instagram Fred Nicole interview with UP Climbing Dreamtime on Youtube Follow Margo Hayes on Instagram Listen to Notes to You wherever you get your music Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast Contact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Ms. 5.15 – that was the moniker the climbing world bestowed on Margo Hayes after she became the first woman to climb the grade. Two more 5.15's followed and Margo seemed poised to be a defining climber of her generation. Yet, in the background, Margo was quietly struggling with Lyme disease and exploring other interests when she wasn't healthy enough to give climbing her all. What does a professional climber owe their sport, their community, and what do they owe themselves?  Thanks to our sponsors The North Face  COROS Use code CLIMBINGGOLD to get a free watch carabiner with the purchase of a VERTIX 2s watch when both items are in your cart.  LMNT Use link to get a free LMNT sample pack with any order  Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube

Listen In this interview The Climbing Doctor talks with world class trainer and climber, Patrick Matros. Patrick holds a master's degree in sport and educational sciences, is the author of two climbing books, including the worldwide bestseller GimmeKraft!, and has trained some of the top climbers in the world, such as Alex Megos and Margo Hayes. This episode covers: Climbing/training trends Analyzing a climber and creating/implementing a performance plan Coaching philosophy and working with Alex Megos  Managing injuries and callaborating with other health professionals Patrick's general tips for climbing resiliency  Patrick's info and outro Contact Info: IG: @kraftfactory email: coaches@kraftfactory.de

Listen In this video, The Climbing Doctor Interviews 4-time Climbing World Cup Champion Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou, delving into her personal routines, coaching philosophies, favorite climbing drills, and how she has managed to maintain her health through a lifetime of tough climbing. This episode covers: Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou intro  Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's thoughts on family and what motivates/inspires her Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's warm up routine Team management/warm up in team setting  Supplemental exercise routine - progressions, addressing weak links, maintenance Common areas of weakness, injury prevention, and how RR addresses them What distinguishes elite level climbers Robyn Erbesfield Raboutou's favorite drills  RR's advice on injury management  Outro Robyn's Bio: Robyn Erbesfield-Raboutou is a 4-time Climbing World Cup champion, 5 time U.S.A champion, and the third female climber to send 5.14a. She has been coaching since 1993 and has served as the head coach for the USA Climbing Youth Team. Additionally, Robyn is the founder of ABC Kids Climbing, an institution that has included the likes of Brooke Raboutou, Colin Duffy, Margo Hayes, and Natalia Grossman. Contact Info: https://www.abckidsboulder.com/ IG: @robyn_erbesfield_raboutou  

At 19, Margo Hayes made history as the first woman to ascend two of the most revered climbs in the world – La Rambla in Spain and Biographie in France. In today's episode, she talks about how it felt to find success early on in her career — as well as the sting of not going to the Tokyo 2020 Olympics. She also opens up about a recent health struggle, how it feels to be a public person as a self-proclaimed introverted extrovert, and what she's looking forward to now beyond the wall. SOCIAL @margojain @emilyabbate @hurdlepodcast OFFERS FUTURE | Head to www.TryFuture.com/Hurdle to get your first month of training for free. LMNT | Head to DrinkLMNT.com/Hurdle to get a free sample pack with your purchase ASK ME A QUESTION: Leave me a voice message, ask me a question, and it could be featured in an upcoming episode! --- Send in a voice message: https://anchor.fm/hurdle/message

Connor Herson is a young crusher, having freed the Nose at the age of 15, climbed 50 5.14s by his 18th birthday, and recently sending one of the hardest gear routes in the world, "Empath", 5.14d in Tahoe CA. The AAC is recognizing his overwhelming success so early in his climbing career with the Robert Hicks Bates Award, our annual award for up-and-coming you crushers who show exceptional promise for their future climbing endeavors. He's joining the likes of Kai Lightner, Margo Hayes, Sasha DiGuilian, Alex Honnold, and Colin Haley, among many others. In this episode, we sat down with Connor to talk about how he sets climbing goals, which of the 5.14s meant the most to him, what inspired him to try "Empath" on gear after sending it on bolts, and more. *** Grab a ticket to the AAC Annual Benefit Gala and hear from our award winners, enjoy our keynotes Former Vice President Al Gore & the Full Circle Everest Team, and celebrate with climbing legends: https://americanalpineclub.org/annual-benefit-gala

Tipperary Local Community Development Committee are in the process of developing a Three Year “Migrant Integration Strategy” for the County. The purpose of this, is to make Tipperary a more welcoming and inclusive place, to deliver services in a way that caters for all cultures and to eliminate all forms of discrimination and intolerance. Margo Hayes of Tipperary County Council spoke on Tipp Today...

Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary! Once again this month, I present an episode of Training Cafe, my twice-monthly video Livestream coaching show on YouTube and Facebook live. The main topic delves into pursuing next-level projects...and the importance of challenging your inner fears of failure and criticism, just like pro climbers do. Now is the time to think bigger...develop a system...and execute your plan with uncommon discipline! Podcast Rundown 2:57 - Beginning of TRAINING CAFE. Main topic is "Turning Impossible into I'm Possible!" 3:12 – But first, we sip coffee together! 3:30 – SHOUT OUT to Chuck Odette, age 64, for sending 5.14b last week! #Legend 4:20 – What it takes to climb hard late into life. 5:20 – MAIN TOPIC: Turning Impossible into I’m Possible 6:10 – Setting goals is easy. Developing an effective SYSTEM for progress towards the goal is harder….and maintaining long-term discipline is even harder yet! 6:55  – Examples of IMPOSSIBLE becoming POSSIBLE…big or small, they can be life-changing. 8:45 – Einstein’s quote must be followed by action! 9:50 – Climbing examples of “I’m Possible”! 11:00 – Ignore the skeptics…don’t take on their #Loserthink! 13:20– High achievers don’t spend a lot of time on social media, gossip, or other time-wasting activities. 14:20 – Need to be somewhat of a compulsive planner. 15:00 – Have a vivid picture in mind every day–build a belief in the goal, and action for bias…and a “get shit done” attitude. 18:50 – Breaking into a new grade in climbing…demands a new level of thinking and novel, disciplined action. Learn from greats like Gullich, Ondra, Hill, Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes. 20:20 – Great achievements don’t happen by accident! 22:30 – Final tip for your Fall climbing season…. 23:30 -  YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! 23:40 – Question: Training suggestions for trip to Red River Gorge in December. 26:26 – Question: Can I combine Repeater hangboard training with another exercise like Pull-up training? 29:06 – Question: What is “Aerobic Power”? How to train it? 33:14 - Question: Thoughts on bouldering with weight on as training? 36:09  – Question: How to break a hangboarding finger strength plateau? 38:33 – Question: Can I do shoulder and core training every day? 40:50 – Question: Will taking Beta-Alanine benefit my training and climbing? 43:20 – Question: Can I use the 7/53 maximum strength protocol to train a variety of grip positions? 47:00 – Question: What training advice for a 13-year-old girl wanting to improve to 5.11? 48:09 – Question: How to incorporate technique-training into weekly strength-training schedule? 53:03 – Question: How to deal with naysayers, critics, and trolls? 56:30 – Episode wrap-up. Shout out to the many companies that support what I do: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Tonde Katiyo is a professional route setter, a passionate climber, a father, and a coach. His mother is French and his father is Zimbabwean. We talked about the connection between route setting and coaching, about coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes, about his discrimination and privilege resumés, about exposing his kids to risk, and about making better climbing to make a better world.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tonde-katiyo-part-1  Nuggets: 3:10 – The joys of parenting  4:34 – Tonde’s shitty gym session, the ratio of “good” to “bad” sessions, and collecting bad sessions  7:01 – Getting back in shape, Tonde’s “Level 1” goals, and climbing with Nathan Hadley  8:50 – Tonde’s current role at the Bouldering Project  9:56 – Getting hired, Tonde’s dream world, and the happy accident of circuit setting  15:05 – The problem with treating climbing grades as a fixed measurement  17:50 – Being talked into coaching Nathan Hadley, Sean Bailey, and Margo Hayes  22:16 – Tonde’s inside joke, emotion and intention, and speculation as to why those three athletes saught coughing from Tonde  24:42 – Learning to apply the appropriate amount of effort, the complexity of climbing, the mental and emotional boxes, and tweaking dials on the switchboard  29:34 – Learning who people are, and learning to say exactly the right thing at exactly the right time  32:13 – Tonde’s competition background, and how his experience competing and route setting has informed his coaching  36:39 – Asking competitors interesting questions through route setting, and the hand jam scandal  40:44 – Tonde’s training camps, the role of route setting in coaching, and helping athletes work through frustration and other emotions  48:03 – “How do you feel?”, and answering that question with honesty  51:34 – Working with Nathan on his footwork  56:14 – “Your climbing should resemble your personality”  58:44 – When our personalities work against us, winning competitions on your weaknesses rather than strengths, and the inconveniences of competitions vs. those of outdoor climbing  1:03:16 – Tonde’s discrimination and privilege resumes (see show notes for links to his Instagram posts)  1:13:20 – Patron Question: With the BLM protests and social change going on right now, has Tonde seen climbers trying to be more inclusive? Could we get some examples of people employing some good tact and also some bad tact?  1:18:59 – Hoping for a more tolerant world for his kids, and “better climbing makes better people, and better people will make a better world.”  1:23:14 – Patron Question: I would love to hear Tonde talk about being a dad, and also someone that participates in a potentially high consequence past time. How does he manage progression and risk of injury? How does he look at risk for himself, and how does he prepare to take on more risk to move the bar up a notch? How does he manage risk for his kids, and how does he introduce them to it in a healthy way?  1:30:55 – How Tonde thinks about introducing his kids to climbing, and hoping they find passion (even if it’s crocheting)  

Solomon Barth is a Stanford University graduate and software engineer. We talked about Solomon’s impressive two-week trip to Smith Rock, working with Alex Bridgewater to improve his footwork and bulletproof his fingers, training endurance using up-down-ups, veganism, working in tech, his desire to help make positive change in the world, and gunning for 5.15.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/solomon-barth  Nuggets:  2:29 – Solomon’s recent climbing trip, bad weather, and land hurricanes  3:49 – Back in the gym after COVID  5:11 – Solomon’s Smith Rock trip  10:56 – Tactics for flashing routes  14:29 – Being a training geek and reaching out to Climb Strong for coaching  16:54 – Working with Alex Bridgewater and bulletproofing his fingers on the hangboard  19:03 – Solomon’s experience with the Go-A-Hundred hangboard program  21:11 – Takeaways from working with Tyler Nelson on finger injury prevention, and why “active recovery is the only recovery” for pulleys and tendons  25:01 – Working on footwork with Alex  27:19 – Working on his weakness every session, and bookending sessions with slab climbing  30:37 – Solomon’s experience with alactic circuit training  35:07 – Up-down-ups with Maya Madere  39:31 – Up-down-ups specifics and clarifications  43:46 – Solomon’s thoughts on running and cardio  46:49 – Practicing pacing, and how Maya learned to climb faster  48:18 – Reigning in the volume  49:18 – Solomon’s experience and evolution with veganism  54:14 – The vegan alternative food that Solomon is most excited about right now  54:58 – Why Solomon doesn’t put much stock in nutrition, and letting go of sacrifices to perform better  57:27 – Rituals, and “climbing is just for fun”  58:41 – Book recommendation: ’Sacred Cow’ (link in show notes)  1:00:09 – Simon’s tech job, school vs. work, and studying computer science  1:02:51 – Balancing a full-time job with climbing, a desire to help make positive change, and taking time to learn more about the world  1:06:22 – Why Solomon feels that Social Media “wasn’t for him” and thoughts about the potential of becoming a professional climber  1:08:17 – Goal setting  1:10:31 – Plans to project 5.15?  1:11:19 – Margo Hayes, ‘La Rambla’, and shifting to sport climbing  1:13:54 – Jailhouse, kneebars, and projecting ‘The Green Mile’ with Conner Herson  1:17:46 – Using Jailhouse as a training ground, and kneerbar progress  1:20:48 – Plans for Maple and Rifle  1:21:29 – Gratitude  1:22:24 – Solomon’s two book recommendations (see show notes for links)  1:25:00 – “I guess I have an Instagram…”  

Steve Bechtel is a strength coach and the founder of Climb Strong. We talked about the gift of changing your mind, lessons from studying sprinting and how to apply them to climbing, developing aerobic capacity, why Jonathan Siegrist and BJ Tilden are such successful climbers, the “real secret” to success, creating better habits, and Logical Progression 2.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/steve-bechtel  Nuggets:  2:25 – Steve’s house  3:38 – Kids, self-taught Parkour, and climbing at Orpierre  5:54 – The Climb Strong Training Camp, the complexity of climbing training, and why the questions always outnumber the answers  9:00 – Changing your mind, learning, and ego  11:41 – Simulation vs. specificity, changes in glycolytic or power endurance training, and when to train skills  15:39 – Peaking and adaptation persistence  17:22 – Studying speed and power, Charlie Francis’s workouts for 100m runners, and the Hi/Low training model  21:02 – Developing alactic capacity for boulderers  22:58 – Example alactic capacity circuit  26:46 – Developing the aerobic system (the “Low”) and shrinking the anaerobic zone  28:57 – Training the “High” via alactic intervals and strength and power, and the Zlagboard test  29:39 – Route 4x4s as an alternative to ARC training (and how to not screw them up)  31:31 – Three cues for finding the right intensity for route 4x4’s to develop aerobic capacity: 1) nasal breathing, 2) conversational intensity, 3) light fatigue or no pump  33:56 – Other activities to develop general cardiovascular capacity, and the MAF (Maximum Aerobic Function) heart rate formula for aerobic training (180 beats minus your age)  37:08 – Training general cardiovascular capacity in a city, Margo Hayes on ‘La Rambla’, and learning to calm down  40:00 – Jonathan Siegrist’s aerobic capacity, sub-goals, and big days  44:39 – ‘9 Out of 10 Climbers Make the Same Mistakes’, climbing with BJ Tilden, and the difference between the pros and everyone else  46:31 – The real “secret” to success, habits, and systems  48:33 – Behaviors, and first, second, and third-order results  50:18 – Why BJ is so strong and successful as a climber, taking time off, and focusing on doing things better  56:03 – BJ’s training for ‘Biographie’, juggling a business and kids, and his partner Emily  58:31 – Thing I was confused about #1, the role of strength training, the 2x2 deadlift workout, and why Jonathan Siegrist only trains in his offseason  1:04:14 – Steve’s hangboard experiment for maintaining strength, strain gauges, finding the bare minimum, and testing yourself on benchmark climbs  1:08:04 – Simple strength benchmarks for climbers, and strength training as we get older to maintain muscle mass  1:11:10 – Thing I was confused about #2, hung up on finding the “best” program, and seeing programs through to fruition  1:16:27 – The ice cube analogy  1:17:49 – Looking behind the curtain on your training program  1:19:03 – Hangboarding, expected results, and the true marks of a successful program  1:24:53 – Jonathan as a “redpoint climber”, and risking failure vs. having a successful training session  1:27:15 – Why Steve is so excited about skill development as the next big thing in “training”  1:30:52 – Logical Progression 2, and an example strength focus block of training  1:35:31 – “What got you here won’t get you there”, and avoiding a common mental trap  1:37:58 – Is the 2nd edition worth buying if you own the original?  1:38:24 – Gratitude for Ellen (Steve’s wife)  1:39:44 – Dinner and meeting the Climb Strong team, and learning from his own coaches

You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to outdoor climbing, and what can you do to perform your best on weekends outdoors or on a long trip? In this episode, Eric presents a series of powerful tips that you can take to the send bank! He also provides awareness of the potential to self-sabotage, something that even the most experienced climber can succumb to. RUNDOWN 0:15 – Opening comments--I missed you! 2:58 - Introduction to this episode on climbing tips and strategies for optimal performance on weekend trips and on longer road trip 4:06 - A few brief comments about the challenging and, at times, tumultuous events of the past few months... 7:56 - Eric's philosophy about the power of climbing--it brings us together! 9:30 - Tips, topics, and techniques to help you reach your climbing goals this season...as a weekend warrior and on a longer road trip. 10:22 - How to properly taper your training in the days leading up to your outdoor climbing. "Tapering" ahead of a weekend trip is much different than doing a proper training taper ahead of a month-long road trip. Learn the details so that you get it right--a proper taper is hugely important for climbing your strongest! 14:10 - When you arrive at your destination crag...what's the best climbing approach on the first few days? Should you go straight to your project...or should you spend a few days adjusting and acclimating to the outdoor climbing location? 18:00 - On longer trips, most climbers experience a "peak" during the first 1 to 3 weeks of the trip...but they then experience a gradual decline in maximum strength and power with each additional week removed from your training. 19:15 - Why pro climbers often limit climbing trips to one month. 19:29 - Comments about Alex Megos sending Bibliographie, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. CONGRAT ALEX! 20:40 - How as a weekend warrior you can best schedule climbing trips and find the training-and-climbing "rhythm" that best serves you. Plan several months ahead on a paper calendar...this way you can better see the training blocks and travel dates. 22:06 - On a long trip, how many days in a row can you climb? How many days per week is it best to climb? Answer: It depends on many variables...which I'll describe. 23:53 - Learn why a significant number of climbers return from a road trip with a tweak or more significant injury. Learn how you can avoid "walking off the cliff" of sudden, debilitating injury. 26:26 - Specific tips for optimizing recovery and lowering injury risk while on a climbing trip. 28:28 - Learn how to wrap up a long road trip and transition back into training at home. Should you take a break from training for a few days or more? 32:50 - Post-trip, most climbers will need a 2- to 4-week training block to regain top-end finger strength and power. 33:40 - About self-sabotage...it's happened to me...and I'm sure to you as well at some point. Let's unpack a few common scenarios for self-sabotage. 34:24 - Self-Sabotage #1: "Flinching" on the first day working a near-limit project route. TRUST THE PROCESS! Don't give up too fast. 37:55 - However, don't over-reach too far...and get bogged down for many days (or weeks) on a single route. Don't allow your climbing trip to turn into a suffer-fest. Try to balance days of sending (sub-max routes) with days of projecting on near-limit routes. 40:00 - Self-Sabotage #2: Not doing an appropriate warm-up...and rushing to get on your project boulder or route too fast. You can NOT climb your best without a proper warm-up that turns on your nervous system, ignites your climbing-specific aerobic system, lubricates your tendons and joints, and readies your generalize aerobic/CV system. Learn how to do it right! 43:50 - Self-Sabotage #3: Not eating right. Consuming adequate protein and carbohydrates is essential to climbing your best, keeping energy levels ups, recovering optimally, and lowering injury risk. Learn how to keep your power-to-weight ratio up and accelerate recovery on a road trip. Read more about the protein needs of a hard-training strength/power athlete like you! 49:09 - Some meal suggestions and tips for breakfast, snacks, and dinner. What's a common breakfast food of many top climbers? Find out!  50:10 - How many calories do you likely need for bouldering and sport climbing...and on a sedentary rest day? (Big wall and mountain climbers have a much higher daily caloric need than climbers doing stop-and-go bouldering and sport climbing.) 52:06 - Eric's closing--and powerful--comments about setting big goals, pursuing them energetically, and stacking the odds in your favor. You must believe that "what you want, wants you"! Then take daily action and resist the ways (and traps) of the masses. Find your own unique life path, and enjoy your journey. 54:54 - What's the secret sauce that makes for unique and amazingly pro climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Margo Hayes, and many others (I can't name them all!)? Listen, learn, model, plot, course correct, and never give up! 55:55 - The importance of avoiding the traps of the common man... 59:19 - There are a LOT of things that determine climbing performance--the more puzzle pieces you can put together, the better you will become! 1:00:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price items. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! 1:00:50 - PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a highly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-proven nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!  

Today we have a look at the second ascent of a potential 9b while Margo Hayes and Paige Claassen both send 9a. We continue our discussion on POC in climbing and look at Daniel Wood's recent apology.

En el capítulo 20 de Magnesia nos acompañaron miembros del equipo de Muta Climbing, empresa Mexicana dedicada al diseño y fabricación de muros y productos de escalada. Diego “Mutante” Álvarez y Rodrigo Alonso, los cofundadores, junto a Diego Delmar y Jessica Rios, nos platicaron sobre como ha crecido la empresa, los retos que han enfrentado y los futuros proyectos que tiene en puerta. También hablamos sobre la cultura de escalada en México, la importancia de los muros como centros de comunidad, y la escalada en tiempos de pandemia. Para conocer más de las noticias que platicamos, les compartimos las ligas a las fuentes originales: Margo Hayes and Paige Claassen Both Send “Kryptonite” (5.14d)! Blind Climber Javier Aguilar Sends 5.12d! Encuentra a Muta Climbing en Instagram como @mutaclimbing y su página de internet mutaclimbing.com Síguenos en Instagram: @magnesiapodcast Escríbenos a magnesiapodcast@gmail.com para recomendarnos temas e invitados.

***APÚNTATE A LA MASTERCLASS GRATUITA*** Aprende a escalar como un pro aunque aún estés empezando Rockandjoy.com/masterclass     En el episodio de hoy te hablo de los movimientos dinámicos, de cómo poder mejorar muchísimo en la escalada cambiando el estilo y la velocidad de tu escalada. ¿Alguna vez has escuchado que en la escalada, la buena técnica es la que te hace escalar con control y en equilibrio? Esto es probablemente cierto, el problema surge de que estas palabras nos traen connotaciones de movimientos lentos, en los que una mano o pie se pueda separar de la roca lentamente mientras los otros 3 puntos de apoyo permanecen bloqueados y se alcanza una nueva posición de una forma que solemos llamar estática. De hecho yo mismo he llegado a escuchar que para aprender buena técnica debería usar un cascabel y escalar de forma que no lo oiga nunca; así aprenderé a tener control y equilibrio en todo momento. Quizá en los años 70 este era el ideal de técnica en escalada, cuando el material existente era básico y el equipamiento precario, haciendo que las caídas tuvieran consecuencias que ahora por suerte no tienen.   Velocidad vs control Sin embargo, cuando quieres avanzar un poco en tu escalada y pasar de vías muy sencillas a vías más duras, te vas a encontrar con agarres más pequeños, con movimientos más largos y con secuencias que te hacen colocar tu cuerpo de forma rara y desequilibrada… Conforme vas escalando vías más difíciles, la velocidad y el control empiezan a posicionarse como extremos de una balanza. Ambos te ayudan a ahorrar energía y por tanto a escalar mejor, pero si aplicas demasiado de uno a costa del otro pierdes cualquier ganancia que podrías obtener. ¿Has visto escalar en vídeo a los grandes? Justo hace unos días Stephano Gisolphi ha sacado un vídeo en el que escala perfecto mundo, siendo el cuarto escalador en encadenar un 9b+. Si te fijas en como escala, cuando no está reposando, se mueve tan rápido que parece que el video está acelerado.    Equilibrio dinámico La velocidad no sólo te ayuda a reducir el tiempo que estás escalando y por tanto gastando energía; sino que también te ayuda a alcanzar presas a las que no puedes llegar de forma estática o entre comillas, en equilibrio. Cuando vas a realizar un movimiento largo y tu centro de gravedad se tiene que desplazar fuera de tu área de apoyo (la que forman los puntos de apoyo que tienes con la roca) necesitas realizar un movimiento dinámico. Sigue existiendo equilibrio, pero en este caso es equilibrio dinámico. Para obtener equilibrio dinámico utilizas la aceleración o momentum para mover tu cuerpo hacia la presa que quieres coger y te detienes cuando la coges. Inicias el movimiento acelerando tu cuerpo o parte de él en la dirección de la siguiente presa, y realizas el movimiento con control, con equilibrio, pero con velocidad. Si tu envergadura te lo permite, podrías realizar pasos largos de forma estática, pero esto requiere una fuerza física tremenda. El uso del momentum reemplaza a esta fuerza.   ¿Cuando uso el momentum? Estarás de acuerdo conmigo entonces en que para realizar pasos muy largos es necesario usar la velocidad, pero… ¿Y qué pasa con los pasos no tan largos? Cuando las presas son muy pequeñas o muy malas, y sujetarse con dos manos es muy complicado, bloquear con una de ellas para lentamente mover la otra hacia la siguiente presa resulta casi imposible. Si te mueves con velocidad, entonces es posible que alcances la siguiente presa y te agarres antes de que tu cuerpo empiece a decelerar y te caigas. Y ahora llego al meollo del asunto, ¿Y si además de usar la velocidad, empezaras el movimiento antes incluso de soltar la mano que vas a mover? Esto reduce la fuerza extra que necesitas mantener con una sola mano durante el movimiento. Básicamente, si usas la inercia o momentum, estarás por un instante moviéndote sin verte afectado por la gravedad. Podrás alcanzar la siguiente presa antes de que tu peso tire de ti de nuevo. Esta técnica tiene dos ventajas fundamentales, como ya he mencionado, la primera es que la mano que sigue en contacto con la roca necesita ejercer mucha menos fuerza en el agarre. Sin embargo la segunda ventaja es aún más fundamental. Al moverte de forma dinámica generas más fuerza desde tus piernas que al moverte de forma estática. Por tanto, la misma vía escalada de forma estática te cansará más los antebrazos que escalada de forma dinámica. Recapitulo, para pasos largos, o pasos en los que tengas presas muy malas o pequeñas el uso del momentum es realmente necesario y eficiente. ¿Pero y qué pasa en las secciones fáciles? ¿Y en movimientos con cantos grandes? Aquí puedes escalar de forma estática sin problemas ¿no?En realidad no,y la razón es que un estilo dinámico de escalar es más eficiente, utiliza menos energía para hacer los mismos movimientos. Aunque vayas a buen canto, vas a necesitar menos fuerza en los antebrazos y vas a generar más fuerza con las piernas, y así ahorras energía para el crux de la vía donde la vas a necesitar. En conclusión, deberías usar el momentum prácticamente en todos los movimientos en tu escalada. Las excepciones serían movimientos en los que tengas un riesgo objetivo si te cayeras, y movimientos muy muy precisos donde tengas que ir despacio para acertar en el lugar oportuno… Pero salvando esto, escalar de forma dinámica te va a hacer mejorar un montón… Vas a poder aprovechar mejor la fuerza y la resistencia que tienes, en vez de gastarla de forma ineficiente moviéndote como un perezoso. ¡Y además es divertido! Pásatelo bien aprendiendo y soltandote con este estilo.   Tipos de movimientos dinámicos Pero no te pienses que utilizar el momentum es solo hacer grandes saltos rollo Chris Sharma, como te digo, puedes usar la inercia en prácticamente cada movimiento, y en muy muy raras ocasiones vas a soltar tus dos manos a la vez para hacer un lance a dos manos. Voy entonces a repasar los 4 tipos de movimientos dinámicos más comunes y es tu tarea visualizarlos y empezar a ponerlos en práctica en el rocódromo, así poco a poco los irás incorporando a tu repertorio     El impulso con las piernas.   Es el movimiento dinámico por excelencia.Empiezas dejando tu peso caer con los brazos y hombros estirados, colocas los pies altos y flexionas las rodillas. Desde esta posición encogida, empujas fuerte con las piernas para moverte hacia arriba y soltar una mano cuando tengas la presa al alcance. Practicalo en agarres grandes e intenta agarrar presas lo más lejanas posibles. Cuando lo domines puedes probar a soltar ambas manos y llegar más lejos aún, verás que divertido.   El péndulo de caderas.   Empezando el movimiento igual que antes, vas a intentar alcanzar una presa que esté lejos pero hacia un lado en vez de hacia arriba. Empieza el movimiento moviendo tu cadera de lado a lado como un péndulo y continúa este péndulo con un buen empujón de las piernas hacia el lado cuando vayas a alcanzar la presa. Si no lo has practicado nunca te darás cuenta de que cuesta un poco cogerle el tranquillo al plano en el que te mueves, y no salir despedido hacia fuera de la pared. Por eso, practica y practica, como un monito.   El impulso de caderas   Cuando estás en un desplome y tienes las manos y pies abiertos, mirando a la roca, el impulso con las piernas resulta muy difícil de hacer. Sin embargo puedes hacer un impulso parecido con las caderas. Dejas que tu culo se separe de la roca y cuelgas con los brazos estirados y las piernas flexionadas, desde esta postura impulsa tus caderas hacia la roca, como si quieras darle un pollazo, y al mismo tiempo te extiendes para alcanzar la siguiente presa.   El cabezazo   En placas verticales, donde tengas agarres pequeños que te impidan preparar el movimiento como lo he comentado antes, simplemente separa tu cabeza y tronco de la roca ligeramente y lanza la cabeza y los hombros suavemente hacia la dirección en la que quieres moverte para ganarle un segundo a la gravedad   Bueno! Ahora ya sabes un secreto a voces que puede llevar tu escalada a nuevas cotas, aumentando tu grado y tu disfrute! Existen muchos más tipos de movimiento en los que se puede aplicar la inercia pero no quiero abrumarte, lo que sí quiero es que te fijes en escaladores que conozcas o en los grandes en vídeo y analices si escalan rápido, lento, más estático o más dinámico. Por ejemplo échale un vistazo al encadene de Biographie de Margo Hayes, nos da una auténtica lección del uso del momentum, prácticamente o está reposando o está lanzándose a por la siguiente presa, con un dominio exquisito de su técnica y una gestión de la energía sin precedentes.    Y por supuesto, practica en tu calentamiento, y pronto te verás escalando de forma más dinámica y fluida!!   Si te ha gustado por favor suscríbete, me puedes encontrar en Ivoox, Itunes, Spotify y en Youtube y por supuesto en rockandjoy.com, comparte y deja un comentario, estaré encantado de responderte.   El mundo es tu rocódromo, sal ahí fuera y disfrútalo!

What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a higherly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-tested nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!  

Young climbing phenom and media up-and-comer Matty Hong was the fourth American to climb 5.15b. He also had his about Margo Hayes’s ascent of La Rambla featured in the Reel Rock Film Tour. We talk about growing up with prolific climbing parents, what 5.15b means to him, and how he balances being a climber and photographer and videographer. Heather Weidner is known for her hard redpoints, most recently China Doll, a 5.14a R trad route. Music by Small Houses: http://smallhouses.band/ Learn more about your ad choices. Visit megaphone.fm/adchoices

Podcast #11 Training: The Past, The Present, The Future This episode is more of a free-form podcast rather than  single-topic focused, as in the previous podcasts. I hope you enjoy it! 00:15 - Introduction to Podcast #11 00:46 – The breakthrough climbing achievement of the year….Margo Hayes ascent of La Rambla, the first consensus 5.15a redpoint by a female. 3:05 – Similarities between Margo Hayes and Alex Megos – Smart training with a long-term perspective. 6:55 – Feature topic: Training for climbing….the past, the present, and the future. 9:25 – Comments on Eric’s 40th anniversary in climbing…and 30 years as a coach, researcher, and author. Insight into Eric’s sources of inspiration…and quest for innovation in training for climbing.   11:10 - Training for climbing….The Past: John Gill – The Father of Training for Climbing. Did you know he climbed V9/5.13+ moves in the 1960s! 16:10 – Training for climbing….The Present: The training information glut of 2017. But can you distinguish the good from the bad (advice)? 19:45 – Training for climbing….The Future: I predict a revolution! New testing and training technologies, more effective training protocols and programming, and the path to 5.16a! 27:25 – Question & Answer: “Ask Eric” 27:38 – Question 1: How do I determine my optimal body weight…in the quest of gaining a higher relative peak finger force (strength-to-weight ratio) 28:00 – Question 2: What do you think of one-arm hangboard training…with the free hand gripping a helper sling? 37:10 – How to submit a training question to Eric 38:20 – Closing comments Music: Misty Murphy Photo: Bruce Wilson Download all the monthly training podcasts for free by subscribing to the "Eric Horst's Training for Climbing" podcast on iTunes. Please leave a review on iTunes!

CONVERSATION w MARGO HAYES! Margo is the only woman in the world to climb 5.15! At the age of 19, Margo has been on the podium a dozen times in national and world youth sport climbing championships. But what's most impressive about Margo is her philosophical approach towards life, a level of maturity you don't normally see at that age. To watch Margo's videos please visit http://www.tripleblack.com/margo-hayes