Podcasts about t4c

The podcast is a classic Eric Hörst tour de force of climbing wisdom! No matter your ability level, training background, or goals, listening to this episode will challenge your current approach and inspire you to reinvent your training for better results. In this hour-long lecture, Coach Hörst breaks down 10 common training mistakes. Chances are, one, two, or maybe even several of these missteps will hit close to home. But don't get discouraged—get psyched! Identifying these flaws empowers you to train smarter day in and day out, and to course-correct your long-term plan. That's the key to unlocking more effective training—and real gains on the rock! Start your journey toward better training and harder climbing today! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:53 - Eric introduces the powerful topic of correcting common training mistakes. Whether you're current in a serious training block or just doing weekday maintenance training as a tune-up for weekend sending, this is a must-listen episode.  1:50 - Common Mistake #1: Training without a well-designed and personalized plan for improvement. 5:20 - Mistake #2: Copying someone else's training program (aka "copy cat training") 9:30 - Mistake #3: Doing the exact same workout over and over without modification, progression, or deload periods. (aka “Groundhog Day” Training) 16:28 - Mistake #4: Doing little or no sub-maximal climbing (aka always projecting, limit climbing, and "competing with yourself"). Listen to the first in a series of five T4C podcasts on Energy System Training >> 25:15 - Mistake #5: Not doing any generalized aerobic training [Brief Commercial Break] - SAVE 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition >> (code: PODCAST15) 33:45 - Mistake #6: Doing little or no max-strength finger flexor training 40:37 - Mistake #7: Doing little or no antagonist and stabilizer muscle training 44:45 - Mistake #8: Getting drawn into a serious weight lifting, body building, or cross-fit style program 50:00 - Mistake #9: Ignoring -- and training through -- developing aches and pains Listen to T4C podcast #39 on the "Perfect Storm" for climbing injuries >> 59:00 - Mistake #10: Overeating (or undereating) and failing to provide your body with the energy and building blocks needed to gain strength, endurance, resilience, and recovery faster. 1:09:30 - Eric serves up his final thoughts on how you can use the informtion from this podcast to take your climbing to the next level! 1:10:30 - Eric invites you to sign up to his Training For Climbing Newsletter...for a monthly dose (or two) of training content to your inbox! Go to TrainingForClimbing.com and enter your name and email in the pop up box that appears. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this episode, I reveal a powerful — and often overlooked — strategy for developing the mental, technical, and tactical skills needed to level up your climbing. If you're an intermediate climber passionate about improving — or an advanced climber who's hit a plateau — then this is a must-listen episode. Even veteran climbers and professionals can use this strategy to refine their skills and “sharpen the saw” each season. America's top sport climber, Jonathan Siegrist, has shared with me that he enjoys and benefits from this approach to route climbing. So, what is this mysterious climbing strategy? Listen in now to find out! RUNDOWN 0:16 - Welcome statement... 0:38 - Eric sets the stage for revealing a powerful route climbing strategy that really can level up your mental and technical climbing skills. This approach to route climbing is NOT "projecting" or "onsight" climbing... (Learn more about projecting from T4C podcasts #76, #53, and #12 4:00 - What is this powerful strategy? 6:19 - Learn the 6 powerful benefits of climbing with the intention for second-go sending of a route. 13:50 - Do you need more endurance? Faster recovery? More stamina when climbing at elevation? Learn about SENDURE-X from PhysiVantage. Save 15% with checkeout code: PODCAST15 at PhysiVantage.com 15:20 - Learn 7 tips and techniques for excelling at second-go climbing 16:05 - 1. Pick the right grade of route for leveraging the second-go strategy. 18:35 - 2. Pick the right belayer to endure the belay duty of your first go! 20:10 - 3. Work the crux sequence thoroughly! Think out of the box and experiment with a range of beta solutions. Take special note of the "feel beta" of you sequence you settle on. 22:10 - 4. Use tickmarks (judiciously) as visual cues for a critical foot or hand hold. 23:00 - 5. Find the obvious rests...and search for inobvious, but possibly vital nuanced rest positions for the send go. 24:05 - 6. Be sure you know the easier sections of climbing -- they might not feel so easy on point! 25:15 - 7. BELIEVE in the second-go send!  27:00 - What to do if you don't send? 29:00 - What's the best ratio of onsight, project, and second-go climbing? 30:30 - Eric's summary tips, comments, and best wishes. Contact Eric on Instagram @eric_horst or @training4climbing -- subscribe to Eric's T4C YouTube channel. *** Save 15% on PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 *** Support the Training For Climbing podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition for strength gains, endurance, recovery, and injury resistance. Use checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2025 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The title of this podcast may have you thinking "WTF?" Well, this is a special episode of the T4C podcast...and I think you're going to really enjoy it! THE Alex Megos has recently launched his own podcast, and during his recent visit to the States he asked me to sit down for a conversation about the history of training, personalized program design, nutrition and recovery, and much much more.  Of course, I was excited for this unique opportunity...and we had a very lively hour and ten minute conversation that I think every stoked climber will enjoy! There's lots of talk of training and nutritional nuance...and numerous wide-ranging clues for elevating your performance. Listen in! Here's a rundown of some key moments: 0:30 - Eric's intro to this collaboration with the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and YouTube Channel. 2:40 - To begin, Alex asks about my backstory as a climber...and my interest in training for climbing. 5:30 - Some interesting training history. 9:00 - Beginning of climbing performance research. 10:10 - The importance of a personalized approach to climbing and performance. 10:40 - The role of genetics and natural talent. 12:40 - The value of having a veteran coach. 17:00 - A "get the basics right" approach to training. 20:00 - Mental aspects of climbing hard...and the complexities of our sport. 23:05 - It's NOT always about the grades! 24:00 - A bit about Eric's twin careers... 29:00 - Diet and nutritional mistakes. 32:00 - Importance of protein for hard-training athletes. 33:45 - Vitamin D deficiency is not uncommon...and potentially impactful on health and performance. 36:00 - A primer on the research and optimal use of hydrolyzed collagen. Also, the backstory on Supercharged Collagen. 40:00 - Potential benefits of beetroot supplements, such as PhysiVantage Sendure X. 44:00 - The best supplement for climbers? 45:00 - Alex and Eric discuss the benefits (and potential draw backs) of Creatine Monohydrate supplementation. 51:00 - Personalized nutrition 52:30 - Becoming an effective self-coach. 54:50 - The power of Discipline. 58:00 - Finding the right level of commitment for reaching your goals. 58:50 - How near is 5.16a/9c+? 59:50 - A few questions from listeners... 1:02:30 - Pros/cons of being on a ketogenic diet for athletes? 1:05:40 - Are all carbohydrates basically the same? 1:06:50 - Using a continuous glucose monitor (CGM) 1:08:45 - Nutrient timing. 1:12:00 - Alex's closing comments 1:13:00 - Links to the new Alex Megos podcast on Spotify and Alex & Chris Hanke's awesome YouTube Channel! 1:14:00 - Eric's final comments  SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: SEND15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright © 2000–2024 Eric J. Hörst | All Rights Reserved.

This month, I'm serving up multiple "Flash Episodes" of the T4C podcast -- released weekly -- that you can consume in less than 20 minutes.  The topics covered in this first episode...include the pros/cons of online coaching...and a generalized look at how training (and nutrition) for climbers has changed over the last 40 years. Upcoming Flash Episodes in September (released weekly) will examine these topics: How to raise kid climbers...to be happy, healthy athletes...and, hopefully, pass on the gift of becoming a climber for life. How (and when) to stretch and train flexibility for climbing. Also, a pithy discussion of climbing injury trends. Potential benefits (and drawbacks) of ice baths (or cold plunges), intermittent fasting, and sauna use. This episode features an interview I did earlier this year with Kush Khandelwal of The Ageless Athlete podcast. T4C Podcast sponsor ==> Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

Many enthusiastic climbers work hard to level up their performance year over year, and some of us invest great time, effort, and resources into pursuing our climbing goals. One powerful tool for gaining a performance edge is the use of a functional medicine approach to blood testing…which is the focus of this episode of the T4C podcast. My expert guest joining us for this episode….is Thomas Cunningham, a Louisville Kentucky-based doctor, who also happens to be a 5.14 climber! Dr. Cunningham is a board-certified physician, researcher, and functional medicine specialist who believes in combining evidence-based medicine, nutrition, and training to improve your health, wellness, and human performance. The specific focus of this podcast is the use of regular blood testing, and how you can potentially use blood test results to adjust your nutrition and training in ways that amplify your efforts, accelerate recovery, boost performance, and enhance your overall health and well-being. RUNDOWN 00:15 – T4C podcast mission statement 00:45 – The things we do to level up our performance 1:10 – Intro of podcast topic: Blood testing to optimize health and performance 1:35 – Introducing our expert, Dr. Thomas Cunningham (Instagram: @thomascunninghammd.com) 2:30 – Use of blood test biomarkers 3:45 – Value for older athletes 4:10 – Podcast Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- used by 2024 Olympians Natalia Grossman, Alex Megos, and Yannick Flohe'. Get your PhysiVantage at 15% off (code: PODCAST15) at PhysiVantage.com 5:00 – Interview with Dr. Thomas Cunningham 5:30 – What is functional medicine: “Medicine 3.0” 9:30 – Preventative health care through your primary physician – The "Big 4 Killers" 11:20 – Pursuit of “optimal” rather than “average” 14:00 - What testing is appropriate for 20-somethings vs. 50-somethings, etc. 16:40 – “Treat the patient, don't treat the numbers!” 19:15 – Basic blood panels: Metabolic, Lipid, Complete blood count 22:25 – Self-order/self-pay bloodwork at Quest.com or UltaLabs.com 23:30 – More nuanced blood work to consider: Vitamin D, Hormone Panel, Thyroid Panel, HbA1c, ApoB 31:45 – Vitamin supplements to support Testosterone – vitamin D3, zinc, selenium, boron. (PhysiVantage Nutrition VITALIUM is a single-source supplement containing these micronutrients.) 35:00 – The role of genetics, stress, training, nutrition, and sleep. 37:10 – Considerations for vegan athletes. Supplements to consider: B-6, B-12, Iron, D3 + k2, iodine 40:00 – The journey toward optimization. 47:02 – Considerations for female athletes – abnormalities to watch for and treat. 49:50 – Thyroid function and blood panels 53:00 – Hormone changes in women 55:00 – A brief mention of peptides 57:00 – Get the low-hanging fruit…by getting your sleep and nutrition on point…and do some strength training every week. 1:01:00 – Final thoughts Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

To celebrate the 100th episode of the T4C podcast, I wanted to serve up a powerful, comprehensive, yet easily digestible and actionable list of things you can do today to break through a performance plateau...and begin a journey towards being the best climber you can be! No matter your current experience or level of climbing, I guarantee that you will find this episode to be a tour de force of things you can do to accelerate your rate of improvement...and increase your confidence, joy, and experience while climbing.  Therefore, a more accurate title of this podcast might be..."The 10 secrets to accelerating improvement and climbing your very best!" I've got a lot of territory to cover in the next hour, so let's get started! Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The quality of your contact with the rock is paramount when it comes to climbing performance. Strong muscles, on-point technique, and a confident mindset won't get you up a climb if you can't hang onto the holds! Many things affect the quality of your grip and the perceived “stickiness” of the holds – to begin with, there's the texture of the rock and the degree of incut (or slope) to the hold. Weather conditions, such as temperature, humidity, and wind play a big role in how the rock feels and your skin performs. Body position, center of gravity location, and your finger force vector are huge factors in determining how holds feel and will work for a given move. Last but not least, there's your skin quality and the structure of your fingertips. Pulpy (fleshy) tips can deform around tiny rock rugosities to give a better grip on tiny holds and, similarly, skin that's got adequate moisture and elasticity will stick to holds better than thick, dry, callused skin which yields a glassy and slippery grip. It's the latter topic of skin quality and specifically chalk-use to optimize grip that we'll explore today. To help shed some light on this topic, I've got Kevin Brown, co-founder and CEO of Friction Labs chalk, to download on us some of the science of chalk and skin performance. So lean in and chalk up for this grip-enhancing episode of the T4C podcast! RUNDOWN 0:15 - Intro to skin performance and grip--what things affect the quality of your grip? 3:00 - Overview of chalk and the role of "dryness". 6:00 - The effect of humidity, personal skin quality, and chalk use as it relates to skin wear and climbing performance. 8:35 - Use of Collagen powder supplements to improve skin elasticity, strength, and recovery of damaged skin.  9:20 - Importance of making quality efforts on skin-hard boulders and routes--save skin by making just a few quality attempts over many quick, low-quality attempts. 10:00 - Are all chalks basically the same? Kevin reveals the vast differences in chalk formulations! 14:00 - What's the optimal amount of chalk to have on your fingers? 16:30 - How chalk products on the market vary. Are added drying agents helpful? 19:30 - Common contaminants in chalk...and how they adversely affect grip. 21:10 - The genesis of Friction Labs...and new product development. 22:00 - The utility of liquid chalks--who will benefit from it and how to use it for optimal skin performance while climbing. 24:00 - Difference uses of alcohol-containing chalk versus alcohol-free liquid chalk. 25:00 - Is "drier always better"? What are the pros and cons of various drying agents such as Dry Hands, Carpe, AntiHydral, etc. 28:00 - The importance of developing a personalized skin-care routine... Tips on washing chalk off skin after climbing...and moisturizing skin. 31:00 - How to dry out your chalk...if it gets wet from rain...or deep water soloing. 31:35 - Responsible use of chalk, tick marks, brushing practices, etc. 35:50 - Closing comments and coupon codes *** Friction Labs special offer for T4C podcast listeners -- Save 15% at FrictionLabs.com with checkout code: T4C15 *** Support the TFC podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). In Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! Music by Misty Murphy SAVE on  La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2024 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

65 months; 280 weeks and 1,120 episodes ago – the Time4Coffee Podcast was born. My former CNN colleague Guy Raz who is best known today for his many top-ranked podcast including How I Built This was my very first guest. The post 1120: Andrea Says Good-bye to T4C & Hello to This Magic Life appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This week's T4C episode is our 7th mashup to celebrate Time4Coffee's 5th anniversary this month.  Here's a final batch of amazing 20-somethings who've been guests on the show over the last 5 years -- sharing the advice they'd give themselves if they could go back to college.  The post 1111: What's the Best Advice About College From 20-Somethings, Mash-Up VII [5th anniversary Mash-Up] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This week's T4C episode is our 4th mashup to celebrate Time4Coffee's 5th anniversary next month.  We thought you'd enjoy hearing some of the very advice a bunch of incredible 20-somethings would give themselves if they could go back to college.  The post 1107: What Advice Would You Give Yourself If Could Go Back To College, Mash-Up Part 4 [5th anniversary Mash-Up] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This week's T4C episode is our 3rd mashup to celebrate Time4Coffee's 5th anniversary next month.  For the next several weeks you'll be hearing a bunch of mashups featuring some of the incredible 20-somethings who've been guests on the show. The post 1106: What's the Best Career Advice For College Students, Mash-Up Part III [5th anniversary Mash-Up] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This week's T4C episode is another special mashup to celebrate Time4Coffee's 5th anniversary next month.  For the next several weeks you'll be hearing mashups featuring some of the incredible 20-somethings who've been guests on the show. The post 1105: 20-somethings Share How to Bounce Back From Professional Fails, Mash-Up Part II [5th anniversary Mash-Up] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This week's T4C episode is a special mashup to celebrate the lead up to Time4Coffee's 5th anniversary (!!!) which launched back in August 2018.  For the next several week's we'll be dropping all kinds of mashups featuring some of the amazing 20-somethings who've been guests on the show. The post 1104: What's the Best Career Advice From 20-somethings Mash-Up Part I [5th anniversary Mash-Up] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

For many of us, Summer is the season of climbing roadtrips. Whether you're venturing across North America, Europe, or Asia, visiting new climbing areas is a wonderful skill- and experience-building endeavor...and it will likely enrich your life and expand your brain in a number of other ways as well. In terms of climbing performance, however, one of the most challenging matters while on a roadtrip is managing fatigue. Specifically, you will awake each day and be faced with the decision of whether you should climb...or take a rest day.  In this T4C episode, I'll detail the primary factors you should consider in determining how often you should take a rest day from climbing. The optimal climbing-to-rest-day ratio can differ greatly depending on your climbing goals, training history, age, and recovery ability, among other things. RUNDOWN 0:14 - Welcome message. 1:30 - The value of climbing roadtrips 2:36 - Intro to optimizing your climbing day to rest day ratio while on a roadtrip. The 4 primary factors that come into play in getting it right. 6:12 - Factor #1: The length of your climbing trip. 13:28 - Factor #2: The type of climbing you're engaging in. 17:34 - Factor #3: Your age and recovery ability. 25:50 - Factor #4: The weather! 30:10 - Eric's wrap-up and closing comments. Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).  Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 30:50 - Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

The topic for this Flash edition can be summarized in this simple, but powerful concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! Obviously, bouldering and sport climbing are much different tactically and emotionally, and they are remarkably different in terms of the mental game, safety systems, and risk management strategies. However, the focus of this podcast is the obvious physical differences between these two popular climbing subdisciplines. We'll compare and contrast the energy systems involved in high-end bouldering versus sport climbing, and I'll give you some insight into the training methodology and keys to optimizing a training program designed for each.  RUNDOWN 0:14 - Hello and Intro to this episode 1:30 - Overview of the differences between Bouldering and Sport Climbing (i.e. Route Climbing) 2:15 - Global concept: You can NOT train optimally for peak performance in bouldering and sport climbing at the same time! 4:50 - Energy system uses in various types of climbing....and the analogy of various Track & Field events. 10:23 - Training implications of differing strength, power, and endurance requirements of these climbing sub-types. >> Listen to T4C podcasts #21 through #28 for an in-depth and cutting-edge look into the bioenergetics of climbing and Energy System Training for climbers. Episode #21 is here >> 12:15 - A generalized overview of effective training for bouldering. 16:05 - An rough overview of effective physical training for sport climbing. >> Link to recent podcast #85 on the value of running for climbers >>  21:24 - Effective training for someone desiring to performance well at both bouldering and sport climbing at the same time. 23:50 - Summary points 25:00 -  Episode Sponsor: PhysiVantage Nutrition -- Get 15% off full-priced climbing nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only).  Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! 26:00 - Closing comments -- Horst Out! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by The Police (Remixes) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

What's it take to climb your first 5.13a? In this episode, you'll hear my prescription for one 5.12 climber looking to project -- and send -- his first 5.13a before year's end. In an interesting and entertaining departure from the typical T4C podcast, you get to listen in on a 70-minute training consult with Ryan Devlin, a client for whom I first wrote a training program about 3 years ago. Since then, Ryan's become a solid 5.12a/b climber with redpoints up to 5.12d. But taking it to the next level will require a modified and comprehensive program...which is the focus of our discussion. Listen in and learn what actions, exercises, and strategies you might take and apply to your training for the next goal or grade, whatever it may be! This episode is a collaboration and co-branded The Struggle and Training For Climbing podcast. I hope you enjoy it! Listen to and subscribe to The Struggle Podcast here >> T4C Podcast sponsor -- Visit PhysiVantage.com the leader in climbing-specific performance nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced items with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Copyright 2023 Eric Hörst | Horst Training, LLC.

In this fast-paced episode, Eric details 7 end-of-climbing-season mistakes that you don't want to make! Becoming aware of common training mistakes, seasonal traps, and/or counterproductive behaviors that climbers commonly succumb to can save you a lot of time and energy, elude setbacks and unintended consequences, and perhaps even avoid injury. Launch into the New Year healthy, motivated, and with a plan for reaching your training and climbing goals! RUNDOWN 00:43 - Intro to 7 End-of-Climbing-Season Mistakes You Don't Want to Make (by Dwight Schrute, kind of!) 01:40 - Learn a powerful decision-making mantra to help avoid gross errors in training, risk management, and more! 03:28 - Mistake #1: Not taking an inventory of the past year's successes (and not counting your blessings). 05:42 - Mistake #2: Not analyzing the causes of your climbing shortcomings and/or setbacks. 08:14 - Mistake #3: Ignoring your end-of-season aches and pains. 14:28 - A word from this podcast's sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Get 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code: PODCAST15 (North America only). Europe and elsewhere visit EPIC-TV Shop or BananaFingers.com to get your PhysiVantage! 16:14 - Mistake #4: Not engaging in a brief "deload" period of reduced training intensity and/or frequency. 18:12 - Mistake #5: Taking a nearly total break from all training and climbing for many weeks or months. 21:45 - Mistake #6: Putting on a "Winter 10" (i.e. ~10 pounds of off-season weight gain). 25:20 - Mistake #7: Not setting a few compelling climbing goals for the new year...and not developing a training program and system for reaching those specific goals. 28:55 - Here are a few must-listen T4C episodes on developing training programs and a system for success:  Podcast #57 – A Simple System for Extreme Success! Podcast #59: Back to Basics – Effective Training for Climbing Podcast #70 – A System for Achieving Greatly in Climbing…and Beyond! Podcasts #73 & #74 – 40 Ways to Improve Your Training and Climbing! 29:48 - Bonus Mistake to Avoid Making: Engaging in holiday "party tricks!" 31:00 - Closing comments and Eric's Best Wishes for the Holiday and New Year! PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

You have been waiting all week to get out to get outside and climb! You've been training hard and your stoke is high to top some great boulders and/or take the sharp end up a few killer routes. Now that it's "game day", what can you do nutritionally to support—and perhaps enhance—your performance? This content-dense FLASH edition of the T4C podcast will serve up actionable steps you can take, including how much water your should drink, the types and amounts of foods to consume, and possible ergogenic supplements that might give you an extra edge when climbing at your limit.   RUNDOWN 0:25 - Intro to "FLASH edition" #2 of the Training For Climbing podcast 1:30 - TOPIC: Performance nutrition for a crag day or bouldering session. 2:50 - Part #1 - How much water should you drink? This depends on many things, including the temperature and humidity, the length and rigor of your session, and your hydration status at the start of your climbing day. Listen in for details. 6:16 - Part #2 - What foods...and how much should you consume? This will depend heavily on the length and intensity of your bouldering session or climbing day. Learn Eric's snack suggestions for sustaining energy throughout the day. 10:30 - Part #3 - What supplements, if any, might acutely enhance game-day performance? The list is short...but Eric reveals a few items that are proven to enhance strength and endurance among hard-working athletes. 16:36 - Wrap up and sponsor message. Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15. European climbers can get PhysiVantage from the EPIC-TV shop and BananaFingers.com Did you enjoy this new FLASH edition format? If so, PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music: FYYC! Remix of "It's Already for You" (The Police - aka. the best band ever) Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Fast-paced and content-rich, this episode features Coach Horst's analysis of pro climber tactics and strategies as featured on The Struggle Climbing Show #14. Eric discusses vital tactics used by pros including Emily Harrington, Alex Megos, Jordan Cannon, Alex Honnold, Kevin Jorgeson, Justin Salas, and more! This is the third-in-a-series of podcasts on things you can do to climb harder at the boulders and crags this summer…when during this performance season, it's really the mental, technical, and tactical skills that matter most. Listen, learn, apply, be inspired....and then go send your project! RUNDOWN 0:40 - Intro to this episode on climbing tactics 2:00 - Eric remarks about Ryan Devlin's new podcast, The Struggle Climbing Show. 3:08 – My analysis episode of The Struggle on “Tactics of the Pros”. 3:40 – Backstory on my enduring interest in climbing…and training for climbing! 6:50 – My personal struggles… 10:00 – Generally, some of the most vital tactics of the pros involve strategies to acquire higher efficiency in their climbing. 11:25 – Using “reframing” as a mental tactic to overcome their struggles. Mental toughness is a superpower of these pro climbers. 13:00 – Developing “mental agility” is central to the goal pursuit of top pros. 15:20 – Recreational climbers share many of the same struggles as the pros! 16:26 – Analysis of Emily Harrington's comments on free climbing El Capitan's Golden Gate. Efficiency is everything! (Well, almost.) 19:00 – Learn one way to train climbing efficiency at the gym… 21:10 – Pursue efficiency (and recovery!) when climbing outdoors! 23:15 – Analysis of Kevin Jorgenson's epic struggle—and win!—on the crux pitch of Dawn Wall. 24:40 – Problem solving tactics that we can apply to our climbing… 30:20 – Sometimes it takes a one-off novel tactic to send! (Emily Harrington adapting to the Monster Offwidth!) 32:00 – More gym training tactics for boulderers… 36:00 – The importance of taking breaks from project boulders/routes…to experience more “wins” and to remember the joy of climbing successes! 37:00 – View difficult days—the struggle—as both part of the process…and a “tuition” of sorts paid to become a better climber. 37:50 – Alex Megos projecting process often includes a route-specific training block. Perhaps, so should yours! 40:55 – Eric's comments on the Alex Honnold interview…and his different approaches to sport climbing and trad (or solo) climbing. 42:35 – When it's safe…become fully unbridled and climb until you fall…or send! 44:40 – Learning climbing tactics comes with experience--be patient and frequently challenge yourself with diverse climbing experiences, and you will become a master climber! 48:00 – Some of the common traits/strategies of the pros… 48:38 – 1. They have struggles—more than you may think! 49:35 – 2. Mental agility. Make a game out of problem solving and the process of sending. 50:30 – 3. Trust the process. Learn every day, act with intention, and believe in the end game! 51:20 – 4. Route-specific training…especially for long-haul projects. 52:00 – 5. Build a sport team…and remember to pay it back (or pay it forward)! 54:20 – Final comments about Eric's multi-decade journey to have an impact on climbers around the world! PhysiVantage Nutrition for climbers is the capstone of Eric's climbing career. Save 15% off full-priced PhysiVantage Nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15. here >> 58:20 – Wrap-up of this T4C podcast. PLEASE write a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts and SHARE this podcast with a friend! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15 SAVE on La Sportiva shoes here >> Thank you! La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

Episode #1000 is a fun and valuable mashup of some of our favorite T4C guests to-date (as of June 2022) which includes, in order of appearance: The post 1000: Best of Time4Coffee's 1000th Milestone Mash-Up  appeared first on Time4Coffee.

We are joined this week by Mike Gin, English Pastor at Twin Cities Chinese Christian Church in Roseville, MN. Mike has served at T4C for the last twenty years and shares with us about his partnership with the lay elders at his church. Listen in as we discuss the value of a united leadership in the Chinese heritage church!

This information-packed episode features Steven Dimmit of the Nugget podcast interviewing Coach Hörst on all things training. This wide-ranging Q & A covers many vital topics including: how to train for stronger tendons and ligaments, the secrets to developing a really strong core, the benefits of campus training versus hangboard training, personalized training program design, and much more! There's a gold mine of information in this episode....and Part 2 of this interview will serve up even more! Coming soon... Podcast Rundown 00:12 - Intro to this "best of" the Nugget interview with coach Eric Hörst 2:56 - What core elements of training have passed the test of time? 6:23 - Current glut of training information can be overwhelming--what to do? 8:37 - Importance of re-inventing your training each year. 10:07 - Value of engaging an expert coach. 12:25 - What's the most central exercise/activity for climbers? 14:30 - You can improve technical, movement and mental skills for decades! 17:00 - You can improve at climbing for DECADES! 18:25 - You are likely already strong enough to climb the next grade! 19:56 - What should you look for in hiring a coach? 25:50 - New training concept: Sinew Training! Learn the importance of remodeling connective tissues. Visit T4C podcasts #33, #34, #36, and #39 for an in-depth study of this powerful topic. 30:00 - Learn how max finger hangs and campusing training have profoundly different effects on tendons and ligaments. 34:00 - Learn the difference between sinew training for tendon/ligament health versus training for peak power and performance. 35:10 - How to schedule these two types of training for optimal health and results. 36:30 - Learn training cycles and periodization. Linear versus non-linear. 44:40 - Importance of developing a truly personalized approach to training (the "snowflake principle"). 46:00 - Identify your limiting constraint. For some strong climbers it's "end-range" strength. 50:15 - How designing an advance training program is like playing 3D chess. Why the best coaches see the big picture and coach the "person" not just the athlete. 51:00 - Don't fall into the trap of obsessing on one type of training or one modality. 54:25 - Why developing a stronger core is SO VERY important. (Hint: A stronger core equals stronger fingers!) 56:30 - Eric comments about Alex Megos' coaches Patrick & Dicki 59:00 - Learn about deadlifting for climbers...the value...and the potential pitfalls. 1:06:30 - The value of doing more bouldering and traversing with very small footholds. 1:11:10 - Key idea: A weak core overcharges your finger force...resulting in rapid fatigue on near-limit climbs. 1:14:10 - More on DUP training versus a 10-week (or more) training cycle. 1:16:30 - Wrap up comments...and a few words about the podcast sponsor PhysiVantage Nutrition. Tune in to T4C podcast #64 for PART 2 of this Nugget Interview with coach Hörst! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code PODCAST15 PhyiVantage is used by dozens of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric's YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Ramji has spent some serious time researching comparative mythology and the works of Joseph Campbell, which makes him a master of crafting amazing tales. As the DM of a group of incredibly talented and fun players on their stream The 4th Culture, he has an amazing sandbox in which he puts his knowledge to good use. T4C draws heavily on stories of Asiatic myth and legend, which Ramji and his players grew up reading and hearing, while still being accessible and familiar to people from all cultures. If you can't catch their stream live, you can watch them on YouTube later. You can follow T4C on Twitter, and join their Discord Server to interact with Ramji and the rest of the cast and crew. They'd love to hear from you! HN2DM Linktree and Affiliate Links Linktree Hero Forge DM's Guild DriveThru RPG Adventure Dice - Use Code ‘HN2DM' for 10% off! --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app

Ramji has spent some serious time researching comparative mythology and the works of Joseph Campbell, which makes him a master of crafting amazing tales. As the DM of a group of incredibly talented and fun players on their stream The 4th Culture, he has an amazing sandbox in which he puts his knowledge to good use.  T4C draws heavily on stories of Asiatic myth and legend, which Ramji and his players grew up reading and hearing, while still being accessible and familiar to people from all cultures.  If you can't catch their stream live, you can watch them on https://www.youtube.com/c/The4thCulture (YouTube) later.  You can follow T4C on https://twitter.com/t4c_online (Twitter), and join their https://discord.com/invite/8ukBkpDP5j (Discord Server) to interact with Ramji and the rest of the cast and crew. They'd love to hear from you! HN2DM Linktree and Affiliate Links https://linktr.ee/hn2dm (Linktree) https://www.heroforge.com/tap/?ref=hn2dm (Hero Forge) https://www.dmsguild.com/browse.php?affiliate_id=3072629 (DM's Guild) https://www.drivethrurpg.com/browse.php?affiliate_id=3072629 (DriveThru RPG) https://adventuredice.ca/ (Adventure Dice - Use Code ‘HN2DM' for 10% off!) --- This episode is sponsored by · Anchor: The easiest way to make a podcast. https://anchor.fm/app (https://anchor.fm/app)

Learn 8 things to "get right" in order to climb your very best...and to help create more of those wonderful low-gravity send days! Coach Hörst provides powerful tips for priming your body for peak performance in the days leading up to your weekend climbing. He also gives valuable game-day master tips for optimizing your performance and accelerating recover at the boulders and crags. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.  RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15 Podcast Rundown 3:40 - First, a few comments about the importance of reducing emotional "weight". 4:35 - Tip #1: Arrive at the boulders or cliff truly 100% fresh -- a rare thing among enthusiastic, hard-training climbers. Learn how to do it! 8:30 - Tip #2: Get your sleep and nutrition right both in the days leading up to your climbing...and while on climbing weekends or trips. 17:20 - Tip #3: Engage in a proper warm-up before every climbing day. Learn what things you should do...and how long it should take. 23:40 - Tip #4: Make the most of your day-one freshness and stoke. Should you invest your time and energy into onsight and flash climbing, or projecting? How much should you save of yourself for day two? 28:45 - Tip #5: Strive to "master" a boulder or route...not just thrash through and survive it. This is a rich topic that Eric drills deeply into...with many tips for climbing more efficiently and channeling your inner Ondra! 40:50 - Tip #6: Rest optimally between routes. Learn how long to rest between goes on your project boulder or route...and how you can accelerate recovery. 46:05 - Tip #7: Learn how to breathe more effectively. Yes, proper breathing (and brief breath-holding) is important! 53:53 - Tip #8: Eat and drink the right things and in the right amounts. Small things can make a massive different in your energy and climbing outcomes--this includes the things you eat and drink! 1:00:00 - BONUS TIP: Love climbing unconditionally! Enjoy each moment that you are on the rock. Let go of both past failures and thoughts of potential future outcomes. Trust the process! Let the send evolve organically...when it's meant to be. PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

There are myriad exercises, activities, and sports that climbers engage in with the belief it will elevate climbing performance. For the typical climber, however, most of the climbing-performance benefits come from just a handful of exercises and activities that they do. Consider, dear listener, everything you do in the name of training--how beneficial is each activity and exercise? In this podcast, Eric discusses common training tangents, traps, and energy sinks, and he details 10 time-tested exercises/activities that are central to effective training for climbing. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on your FIRST PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS.  RETURNING CUSTOMERS: Save 15% off full-priced nutrition with checkout code FRIENDS15 Podcast Rundown 4:10 - Opening comments about effective training for climbing. 4:45 - Importance of keeping an open mind about your training. 6:42 - Mention of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers -- go back and listen to podcast #37! 9:00 - Intro to 4 training tangents, traps, and energy sinks that rob you of time and energy...and dilute the quality of your training for climbing. 10:06 - You CAN achieve greater things than you can imagine today! 10:40 - #1 Training Tangent: Focusing on exercises and activities that create fatigue and consume time, but do little to really enhance climbing performance. 15:44 - #2 Training Tangent: Blindly copying another climber's workouts and training program. 17:22 - #3 Training Tangents: The shiny, new object at the gym...that is fun, engaging, and possibly high-tech...that consumes a lot of your focus and time but provides small (or negligible) performance gains given. 20:30 - Comments about the benefits of Auto-Regulation. Listen to podcast #20 for more coverage of Auto-Regulation. 25:00 - Comments on Blood Flow Restriction training - learn more in podcast #40. 28:00 - #4 Training Tangent: Constantly changing up your training...never sticking to a program for a month to be able to accurately gauge the results. 30:30 - Eric coaches you to "Plan your workout, then work your plan!" 32:45 - Please check out our podcast sponsor, PhysiVantage Nutrition. Save $10 or 15% on your online order! PhysiVantage is used by many of America's top boulders, sport climbers, and big wall crushers! 35:08 - 10 time-tested, back-to-basics exercises and activities that are central to effective training for climbing. 37:24 - #1: Climb frequently! 39:30 - #2: Hangboard train! 44:15 - #3: Weighted Pull-ups 45:35 - #4: Frenchies 48:08 - #5: Bouldering and System Wall climbing 50:15 - #6: Route climbing 54:34 - #7: Bouldering 4x4 Intervals 57:42 - #8: Campus board training 58:40 - #9: Running (in moderate doses) 1:01:21 - #10: Flexibility training (lower-body focus for hip turnout) 1:05:22 - Final thoughts.... PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Chances are...your fingers are already strong enough to climb the next grade. In this podcast, Eric details five ways to increase your apparent finger strength on the rock...and climb one grade harder! Whether you're an intermediate, advanced, or pro-level climber, you'll surely find a few of Eric's concepts and tips to be empowering...and just maybe provide you with the "secret" to breaking a plateau or sending your project. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Podcast Rundown 6:09 - Gaining more finger strength without training your fingers! Huh? Listen and learn some secrets to becoming a more efficient and effective climber. 11:00 - Eric's comments about finger force testing. 15:30 - Five secrets to stronger fingers on the rock! 16:12 - #1: Learn the importance of climbing economy...and why a weaker climber can sometimes outperform a stronger climber. 21:33 - #2: Training hip flexibility increases finger strength-endurance, especially on near-vertical boulders and routes. 31:30 - #3: Stronger shoulders make fingers stronger. Learn why. 38:08 - #4: Stronger wrist flexors and wrist extensors will improve your sloper and crimp grips, respectively. 45:40 - #5: Increasing core strength and core strength-endurance make small hand and foot holds "bigger" and more solid...and increase apparent finger strength and endurance. But to obtain this effect, you must train comprehensive core strength with a wide range of exercises. 58:12 - Summary and final tips to improve your climbing. PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save $10 on a PhysiVantage performance Nutrition purchase of $40+ with checkout code: 10DOLLARS. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

The beginning of a new year is a great time to think critically about your current situation…and trajectory. What are your short-term goals...and long-term destination? How will you get there? As you will soon discover, this short podcast transcends climbing performance—it’s about human performance! What does it take to achieve extreme success? What’s the #1 thing holding most people back from reaching their big life goals? Eric describes his formula for making steady daily progress towards achieving important goals. You can apply this conceptual model to accelerate progress in any endeavor. So what are you waiting for? Listen. Apply. Achieve! Watch the "Extreme Success" video here >> PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

What could be better than a one-hour Q & A with coach Hörst about all things training? 15 questions on a wide range of topics...and hopefully more than a few that will hit home with you. Enjoy! Podcast Rundown 4:15 – Question: What advice do you have for returning to crimping after an A2 pulley injury? 7:35 – Question: What are your recommendations for incorporating some strength training in a my routine? 11:40 – Question: What do you think of post-workout cold-water immersion for reducing pain and accelerating recovery? 16:00 - Question: What can I do to prevent getting sowing-machine leg? 19:22 - Question: What are your thoughts on deadlifting for climbing? 25:25 - Question: What can I do to reduce chronic pain and stiffness in my neck muscles? 28:15 - Question: What vitamin supplements do you take? 34:30 - Question: What's the ideal length of break between doing two climbing workouts in a day? 36:20 - Question: My project involves a lot of stemming--what can I do to train specifically for better stemming? 38:20 - Question: What finger grip positions do you recommend for training? 42:06 - Question: What the best strategy for pushing into the next level when projecting? 46:48 - Question: What do you think of campus training for youth climbers? 49:09 - Question: Since I didn't start climbing until age 35, how long can I improve in strength and climbing ability? 51:15 - Question: Do you agree with the idea that most climbers are already strong enough to climb the next grade? 53:25 - Question: Is there a vegan version of collagen supplement? 55:15 - Question: When's the right time for a new climber to begin some hangboard training? PLEASE write a 5-star iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank you! SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

NPR’s Guy Raz is the man behind the microphone — and the magic — of 3 top-ranked Apple Podcast shows:  How I Built This, TED Radio Hour, and Wow in the World. In 2016, he became the first podcast creator to have 3 shows in the Apple Podcast chart’s Top 20 shows — at the same time.  However, as he tells T4C host Andrea Koppel, before he made it to the pinnacle of his profession, Guy had to deal with professional disappointments, and even rejection, and had self-doubts like all of us. The post How NPR’s Guy Raz Built His Journalism Career [re-release] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

2020 has been a challenging year with a global pandemic, a COVID lockdown at home (or two), and limited climbing travel for many of us. We're now entering the holiday season which will hopefully bring some opportunity to celebrate (in small COVID-safe groups?), reset our training, and renew our minds and bodies. Is this a good time to take a month off from climbing? NO! There are several options for holiday season training, even if it's all at home. I'll present the benefits and drawbacks of each approach. Which is best for you? Listen in...you decide! 0:15 - Introduction 2:30 - A brief message about the T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. 3:45 - Winter is near...training season is here! What's the best approach to training in the holiday season? I will present 4 distinctly different approaches to training through the holidays. 5:30 - Training Approach #1: Taking a month or so off from training and climbing. Eric addresses the pros and cons of taking a few weeks (or more) off from training and climbing. 8:40 - Training Approach #2: Immediately adjust your training to deal with a current injury or tweak. Now is the time to resolve an injury with appropriate rehab and self-care. 13:25 - Elite level climber question: How would I train this winter to climb my best in the Spring season....versus training to climb at my highest level in a few years? 18:10 - Recap of Holiday Training Approaches #1 and #2. 19:20 - Training Approach #3: Continue with serious in-season training because this is your performance season...or you have a climbing trip scheduled in the next 4 to 8 weeks. In this case, it's important to train for a "peak" for your trip and not succumb to (or minimize the impacts of) holiday season...rich foods and "cheer"). 22:22 - A brief tangent on the diet/nutrition and the "issues" that some athletes have with food. Developing a healthy relationship with food is important for optimal training, beneficial physical adaptations, and maximizing performance. Especially for hard, steep climbing, strength-to-weight ratio directly correlates to performance...so consuming the right foods in the right amounts is vital. 27:32 - Holiday Season Training Approach #4:  Strive for a balance between frequent training and occasional indulgences in holiday foods and drinks. You can enjoy the season without being self-destructive to your climbing potential for the early 2021 season. Learn how Eric will be doing it...and determine if it's the right approach for you! 35:35 - Warning: A couple of weeks (or more) of holiday gluttony can have a significant negative impact in terms of weight gain. While putting on a pound or two is no big deal, adding 5 to 10 pounds will hurt your climbing in early 2021...and it will likely require a month or more to lose. 38:13 - The bottom line: How seriously you take your diet and training should be proportional to how seriously you take your climbing! 39:20 - Effectiveness comes when you match your actions to your goals. Live intentionally! 39:50 - Eric's closing comments: In the end, performing optimally and experiencing maximally demands that you nuance your actions and explore the shades of gray...rather than living in a black and white world. PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

Are you ready to rethink what's possible in your climbing life? There's a good chance that your perceived limit is actually a self-imposed imaginary boundary! Once again this month, I present an episode of Training Cafe, my twice-monthly video Livestream coaching show on YouTube and Facebook live. The main topic delves into pursuing next-level projects...and the importance of challenging your inner fears of failure and criticism, just like pro climbers do. Now is the time to think bigger...develop a system...and execute your plan with uncommon discipline! Podcast Rundown 2:57 - Beginning of TRAINING CAFE. Main topic is "Turning Impossible into I'm Possible!" 3:12 – But first, we sip coffee together! 3:30 – SHOUT OUT to Chuck Odette, age 64, for sending 5.14b last week! #Legend 4:20 – What it takes to climb hard late into life. 5:20 – MAIN TOPIC: Turning Impossible into I’m Possible 6:10 – Setting goals is easy. Developing an effective SYSTEM for progress towards the goal is harder….and maintaining long-term discipline is even harder yet! 6:55  – Examples of IMPOSSIBLE becoming POSSIBLE…big or small, they can be life-changing. 8:45 – Einstein’s quote must be followed by action! 9:50 – Climbing examples of “I’m Possible”! 11:00 – Ignore the skeptics…don’t take on their #Loserthink! 13:20– High achievers don’t spend a lot of time on social media, gossip, or other time-wasting activities. 14:20 – Need to be somewhat of a compulsive planner. 15:00 – Have a vivid picture in mind every day–build a belief in the goal, and action for bias…and a “get shit done” attitude. 18:50 – Breaking into a new grade in climbing…demands a new level of thinking and novel, disciplined action. Learn from greats like Gullich, Ondra, Hill, Janja Garnbret, Margo Hayes. 20:20 – Great achievements don’t happen by accident! 22:30 – Final tip for your Fall climbing season…. 23:30 -  YOUR QUESTIONS ANSWERED! 23:40 – Question: Training suggestions for trip to Red River Gorge in December. 26:26 – Question: Can I combine Repeater hangboard training with another exercise like Pull-up training? 29:06 – Question: What is “Aerobic Power”? How to train it? 33:14 - Question: Thoughts on bouldering with weight on as training? 36:09  – Question: How to break a hangboarding finger strength plateau? 38:33 – Question: Can I do shoulder and core training every day? 40:50 – Question: Will taking Beta-Alanine benefit my training and climbing? 43:20 – Question: Can I use the 7/53 maximum strength protocol to train a variety of grip positions? 47:00 – Question: What training advice for a 13-year-old girl wanting to improve to 5.11? 48:09 – Question: How to incorporate technique-training into weekly strength-training schedule? 53:03 – Question: How to deal with naysayers, critics, and trolls? 56:30 – Episode wrap-up. Shout out to the many companies that support what I do: La Sportiva shoes, Maxim Ropes, DMM, Organic, Friction Labs, and PhysiVantage PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

In this episode, Eric welcomes you into the Training Café...which is his live coaching video stream broadcast every other Monday. So in this podcast, you'll hear Eric's TC broadcast which includes in-depth coaching on effective projecting...and reveals the "secret" to sending! Eric also answers a slew of viewer questions on training, injury, nutrition, and more. You can participate in future Training Café livestreams--and submit a training question to Eric!--by tuning into this video simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels...typically broadcast at Noon Eastern Time (900 Pacific & 1600 GMT) on every other Monday. Podcast Rundown 1:15 - Intro to episode #53...and what Training Cafe is all about. 7:20 - Beginning of Training Cafe....with our virtual toast in the spirit of climbing! 7:35  - SHOUT OUT to Drew Ruana, perhaps the world's top boulderer this year, for sending his 10th V15 or harder boulder! Three of these were V16 ascents--watch the send videos here.  9:38 - Text message from Drew about keeping his fingers and skin healthy. Learn Drew's secret here. 12:00 - MAIN TOPIC: Effective Projecting...and Trusting the Process. 13:15 - The 6 steps/phases of effective projecting... 14:00 - Step 1: Picking the right project for you in the context of your current situation. Do you want/need to send it quickly? 15:15 - What type of project routes will make you a better climber? 16:40 - Step 2: Chuck down the route or boulder problem into 2 to 5 logical parts. 17:00 - Example: My project route "Warlords" at Mt. Charleston...and how I approached this route. 21:23 - Step 3: Work the route bolt to bolt to size up the sequences...then get to work on the crux chunk. 23:58 - Step 4: Identify the FEELING of doing the hardest moves the right way. CRITICAL! 24:30 - Learn the SECRET to succeeding on the crux sequence... 27:47 -Step 5: Begin linking chunks...from the crux chunk to the top, before beginning redpoint attempts from the ground. 29:06 - Step 6: Begin redpoint attempts from the ground. 43:20 - How to train when I don't have access to a climbing gym? 45:00 - How much rest should I take between dedicated training blocks? 47:47 - Learn the benefits of a DELOAD week! 48:40 - Is there value in using fascial release tools? 51:00 - Comments about overuse injuries in climbers... 52:23 - What are some off-the-wall exercises and stretching that I can do, especially on rest days? 54:30 - When will PhysiVantage be available in Europe? PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

To mark this latest super big milestone in T4C’s short history and our journey to realize our mission – to help 1 million college students turn their degrees into careers they’ll love – I’m going to focus this episode on the importance of motivation. I think motivation is the secret ingredient …the rocket fuel in a personalized jet pack you can strap on your back every morning, when you’d prefer to sleep in, and each evening when you’d prefer to binge on Netflix …to propel you forward towards achieving your goals. The post 600: Why Your Determination is Rocket Fuel With Andrea Koppel appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Legendary climber, Wolfgang Gullich, famously said that "the brain is the most important muscle for climbing". Sure, strong fingers are important--but there are many strong-fingered climbers who never reach their potential. The pursuit of better climbing is ultimately an inward journey to gain mastery of the mind. Developing stronger "mental muscle" will enable you to achieve beyond your current imagination. Like wielding a sword with empty hands, your mind will lead your body to new summits. In this episode, I share with you 10 powerful concepts that can potentially re-invent how you think and what you will achieve. This material is more powerful than any hangboard training program you can do--the quotes and tips I present hold get to the heart and soul of taking your climbing (and life) to a higher level. RUNDOWN 0:30 - Introduction to this episode on how 7:13 - #1: What sets great climbers apart from others is not their physical prowess (amazing as it may be), but their brains. 10:18 - #2: The brain is a human being’s most dynamic organ—it is shaped by the sum of our experiences, both what we do and what we have done. 13:28 - #3: You are not what you climb; you are how you climb. For you, you can substitute your brain. 15:43 - #4: To become better than we are, we must first become aware of what we are. 18:39 - #5: Achieving excellence is not just a matter of exploiting your strengths to the fullest, but also demands that you ruthlessly pursue improvement in the things that constrain your performance. 21:00 - #6: The thoughts you generate and dwell on are powerful. You can literally think yourself to success or failure. 24:54 - #7: You will accomplish in proportion to your ability to set compelling goals and overcome adversity. 29:12 - #8: Self-discipline and commitment are the great equalizers! 32:00 - #9: Perhaps nothing is more elemental to climbing than fear. Becoming a maximum climber, then, requires that you learn to understand and manage your fears. 35:40 - #10: Surround yourself with positive people and images, while avoiding the impossibility thinkers and complains of the world. PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Save 15% on PhysiVantage performance Nutrition. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! SAVE on La Sportiva shoes >> Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

You've been dreaming about your boulder project, dream route, or road trip. You've trained smart and hard. Your psych is high. You're ready to crush! So, how can you best transition from gym to outdoor climbing, and what can you do to perform your best on weekends outdoors or on a long trip? In this episode, Eric presents a series of powerful tips that you can take to the send bank! He also provides awareness of the potential to self-sabotage, something that even the most experienced climber can succumb to. RUNDOWN 0:15 – Opening comments--I missed you! 2:58 - Introduction to this episode on climbing tips and strategies for optimal performance on weekend trips and on longer road trip 4:06 - A few brief comments about the challenging and, at times, tumultuous events of the past few months... 7:56 - Eric's philosophy about the power of climbing--it brings us together! 9:30 - Tips, topics, and techniques to help you reach your climbing goals this season...as a weekend warrior and on a longer road trip. 10:22 - How to properly taper your training in the days leading up to your outdoor climbing. "Tapering" ahead of a weekend trip is much different than doing a proper training taper ahead of a month-long road trip. Learn the details so that you get it right--a proper taper is hugely important for climbing your strongest! 14:10 - When you arrive at your destination crag...what's the best climbing approach on the first few days? Should you go straight to your project...or should you spend a few days adjusting and acclimating to the outdoor climbing location? 18:00 - On longer trips, most climbers experience a "peak" during the first 1 to 3 weeks of the trip...but they then experience a gradual decline in maximum strength and power with each additional week removed from your training. 19:15 - Why pro climbers often limit climbing trips to one month. 19:29 - Comments about Alex Megos sending Bibliographie, the world's second 5.15d/9c route. CONGRAT ALEX! 20:40 - How as a weekend warrior you can best schedule climbing trips and find the training-and-climbing "rhythm" that best serves you. Plan several months ahead on a paper calendar...this way you can better see the training blocks and travel dates. 22:06 - On a long trip, how many days in a row can you climb? How many days per week is it best to climb? Answer: It depends on many variables...which I'll describe. 23:53 - Learn why a significant number of climbers return from a road trip with a tweak or more significant injury. Learn how you can avoid "walking off the cliff" of sudden, debilitating injury. 26:26 - Specific tips for optimizing recovery and lowering injury risk while on a climbing trip. 28:28 - Learn how to wrap up a long road trip and transition back into training at home. Should you take a break from training for a few days or more? 32:50 - Post-trip, most climbers will need a 2- to 4-week training block to regain top-end finger strength and power. 33:40 - About self-sabotage...it's happened to me...and I'm sure to you as well at some point. Let's unpack a few common scenarios for self-sabotage. 34:24 - Self-Sabotage #1: "Flinching" on the first day working a near-limit project route. TRUST THE PROCESS! Don't give up too fast. 37:55 - However, don't over-reach too far...and get bogged down for many days (or weeks) on a single route. Don't allow your climbing trip to turn into a suffer-fest. Try to balance days of sending (sub-max routes) with days of projecting on near-limit routes. 40:00 - Self-Sabotage #2: Not doing an appropriate warm-up...and rushing to get on your project boulder or route too fast. You can NOT climb your best without a proper warm-up that turns on your nervous system, ignites your climbing-specific aerobic system, lubricates your tendons and joints, and readies your generalize aerobic/CV system. Learn how to do it right! 43:50 - Self-Sabotage #3: Not eating right. Consuming adequate protein and carbohydrates is essential to climbing your best, keeping energy levels ups, recovering optimally, and lowering injury risk. Learn how to keep your power-to-weight ratio up and accelerate recovery on a road trip. Read more about the protein needs of a hard-training strength/power athlete like you! 49:09 - Some meal suggestions and tips for breakfast, snacks, and dinner. What's a common breakfast food of many top climbers? Find out!  50:10 - How many calories do you likely need for bouldering and sport climbing...and on a sedentary rest day? (Big wall and mountain climbers have a much higher daily caloric need than climbers doing stop-and-go bouldering and sport climbing.) 52:06 - Eric's closing--and powerful--comments about setting big goals, pursuing them energetically, and stacking the odds in your favor. You must believe that "what you want, wants you"! Then take daily action and resist the ways (and traps) of the masses. Find your own unique life path, and enjoy your journey. 54:54 - What's the secret sauce that makes for unique and amazingly pro climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Margo Hayes, and many others (I can't name them all!)? Listen, learn, model, plot, course correct, and never give up! 55:55 - The importance of avoiding the traps of the common man... 59:19 - There are a LOT of things that determine climbing performance--the more puzzle pieces you can put together, the better you will become! 1:00:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price items. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try, and feel the difference it makes in your climbing! 1:00:50 - PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend and on your social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing Visit PhysiVantage.com and get a 15% discount on full-price items with checkout code: PODCAST15

What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a highly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-proven nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!  

As physical as climbing is, it is even more mental. Being technically sound and physically strong is not enough to navigate a high-ball boulder problem, personal-best redpoint, intimidating big wall, or treacherous mountain. Ultimately, you climb with your mind—your hands and feet are simply an extension of your thoughts and will. Becoming a better climber, then, requires that you improve your mental mastery. In this podcast, Eric describes the vital importance of concentration in a world with ubiquitous distractions conspiring to steal your focus and sabotage your performance. You will be armed with six powerful techniques for improving your concentration and, importantly, maintaining focus in stressful, painful, and fearful situations common to climbing. RUNDOWN 0:45 – Comments on returning to outdoor climbing after COVID-19 lockdown. 1:55 – Importance of the mental game in climbing your best…and sending your project. 3:00 – Distractions are concentration- and performance-killers. 5:30 – The role of stress in climbing and life—striving to avoid stress will limit personal growth. 7:00 – Stretching boundaries is naturally stressful. Embrace it in health doses! 9:30 – In climbing, a focused mind is like having a fifth contact point…and on hard routes that’s all the difference in the world! 11:00 – The ability to maintain concentration over a long period of time is a discerning trait of peak performers. SIX ENEMIES OF CONCENTRATION 13:10 - 1. Focusing on the mechanics of well-learned skills. Let go and 14:05 - 2. Dwelling on internal feelings and sensations of fatigue. Embrace the good pain! 15:40 - 3. Entertaining nonproductive self-talk. Be loud. Be positive! 17:04 - 4. Focusing on the past. Let go of the past. Enjoy the moment! 17:38 - 5. Focusing on the future...and potential outcomes. Let go of the outcome—let it develop organically. 18:15 - 6. Visual and auditory distractions. The world is conspiring to distract you! Specifically, what people, places, and things distract you? SIX TECHNIQUES FOR IMPROVE CONCENTRATION WHILE CLIMBING 20:15 - 1. Deal with potential distractions before you climb. 21:20 - 2. Use rituals to narrow focus. 22:50 - 3. Use self-talk to direct the conscious mind. Be loud. Be positive! 25:08 - 4. Keep your eyes on task-relevant targets. 29:23 - 5. Keep your thoughts in the moment. Mind-body synchronization—and the Flow State—is possible only when your thoughts are in the moment! 31:25 - 6. Use willpower to narrow focus despite adverse or imperfect conditions. Use the pressure of the situation and your will power to create a laser-like focus to perform your best in the moment. 33:45 – The mental game is central to climbing your best and maximizing experience. The mental game doesn’t change from one generation to the next—the risk, the fear, and the adversity of the steep are the same…and links us to past generations of climbers. Strive to become a master of your mind. 35:30 – For a comprehensive manual on mental training, check out my book Maximum Climbing. 36:00 – Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% on your order. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try! PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

T4c_4_EtudierEnAsie by The400cast

Climbers are drawn to the challenges and potential adversity of the steep. Great climbers embrace grand challenges--and almost certain adversity--in achieving hard and rare accomplishments. This podcast will equip you with five powerful strategies to leverage, in times of hardship and adversity, as you pursue big goals both in climbing and in your everyday life. And now in this era of COVID-19, you face risk and potential adversity at every turn...so don't miss this powerful podcast--it's an instant classic in the genre of mental training for climbing! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Opening comments about the ongoing COVID crisis,  positive trends we're seeing, and the hope for a summer climbing season. 2:20 - Shifting gears with this podcast away from physical training to important strategies for succeeding on challenging outdoor adventures. Learn the importance of the mental game--perhaps it's exactly what you need to make the next grade?! 9:30 - Strive to become a Maximum Climber. Read the book. Pure gold! 10:00 - Introduction to the powerful topic of...persevering in the face of challenge...and overcoming adversity. 13:36 - The utility of PURSUING adversity....for recalibrating your brain and opening the door to great achievement. All legendary climbers have done it--Harding, Bridwell, Skinner, Hill, Caldwell, Honnold, Harrington, Ondra, and countless others. 22:05 - Embrace adversity...to learn, grow, build character, and "hardness". 23:06 - FIVE powerful strategies for succeeding, despite hardship, and overcoming adversity. 23:16 - #1 Strive for Flexibility of Perspective - Become a spin doctor! 29:30 - #2 Use Optimism as a Tool...a mental lever to sustain forward movement, trouble-shooting, belief in the end game, and finding a way to your goal. 32:04 - #3 - Become Reverse Paranoid! Believe that the universe is conspiring for your success...and that what you want, wants you! Stay aware for synchronicity and other clues from above. 36:36 - #4 Develop World-Class "Hanging-On Power". Mental fortitude is a skill developed over years of striving for one more move, one more rep, one more day of work on the project...or whatever it takes to hang-on to success! 40:45 - #5 Assume a Philosophical Forward-Looking Perspective. Powerful lessons from Tommy Caldwell, Jeff Batzer, and Hugh Herr. 49:05 - Closing comments on developing into a maximum climber. 50:20 - Please check out and support T4C podcast sponsor PhysiVantage. Research-based, athlete-proven performance nutrition for climbers--use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% on your order. Used by a growing number of pro climbers and thousands of recreational climbers around the world. Give PhysiVantage a try! 51:09 - Hörst Out! PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

These are crazy times we're living through with the COVID crisis. Most of us are self-quarantined...left to train on a home wall, hangboard, and whatever else we can kludge together. My personal initiative during the growing stay-at-home spell is doing twice-weekly livestream videos that I call "Training Café". You can view these shows--and submit training questions--during the livestream shows simulcast on the Training For Climbing Facebook and T4C YouTube channels. In this podcast, however, I wanted to share with part of Training Café #6...which includes several training Q & As and a brief dive into using Energy System Training concepts to improve the effectiveness of your training. Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Opening comments about the ongoing COVID crisis...and stay-at-home situation we most face. 3:15 - Introducing my Make April Great Again initiative...Training Café!  7:25 - Audio begis from Training Café #6. 10:00 - SHOUT OUT...to Udo Neumann, the legendary Germany coach and movement expert. Check out his masterclass videos on climbing movement, analysis, and technique training. Watch trailors of "Ideas to Improve Your Climbing" and "Climbing Technique". 12:00 - Eric answers Training Cafe viewer questions. 12:18 - Question #1: Should I go all the way down when pull-up training? 18:16 - Question #2: How much hangboard training is too much? 21:00 - Question #3: Should I deadlift as part of my training for climbing? 24:45 - Question #4: In doing max hangs, as part of an alactic system workout, is it okay to do another different alactic exercise during the rest period between max hangs? 30:30 - MAIN TOPIC: Energy System Training - A brief review of the three bioenergetic systems that power our climbing...and how you can best training each system for optimal adaptations and gains. Listen to previous T4C podcasts #23 to #28 for a deep dive into the science and application of Energy System Training. Learn about PhysiVāntage and how performance nutrition. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products. PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

An often-used proverbial phrase, to encourage optimism and proactive action in the face of adversity or misfortune, is to "make lemonade out of lemons." In this podcast, Eric Hörst presents a hopeful mindset and approach for persevering through the COVID-19 crisis. He details five tips for effective home training and fostering a stronger immune system. Employing this guidance will lower your risk of illness and prepare your body for a quick return to high-performance climbing this summer! Podcast Rundown 0:30 - Opening comments about the global pandemic...and its effects on climbing and life in general. 8:00 - Regarding self-quarantine and areas closed to climbing -- be a part of the solution! 12:10 - Adversity and forced change can sometimes be a blessing in disguise--look for a silver lining in your current situation. Think long-term, consider life course corrections, new goals, and refining your personal "life mission". Consider relistening to Podcast #32 on Success Strategies and Podcast #43 on Tips for Your Best Year Ever! 14:00 - Importance of having a bias for action. 15:38 - Overview of 5 Tips for Coping with the COVID-19 Climbing Closedown...in which gyms are closed, crags are closed, and travel is discouraged or prohibited. 17:54 - TIP #1: If you have a lingering injury or you are returning from a significant injury or surgery, use this climbing-closedown period to engage in deliberate rehab and training. Stay the course, and prepare to be 100% upon the re-opening of our climbing season! 22:00 - TIP #2: Do some generalized aerobic activity outside every day...while maintaining proper social distance. Invest 30 to 60 minutes each day into going for a walk, run, bike ride, or hike.  Consider leaving the phone at home...and run, walk, or hike solo with a receptive mind open to innovative ideas, new goals, and other "gifts" from above. 26:39 - TIP #3: Maintain reasonable nutritional surveillance to avoid significant weight gain while away from your normal climbing and training schedule. 29:33 - TIP #4: Do some strength training exercises every day, but vary the muscles trained. Eric's recommended microcycle, using Energy System Training concepts, is as follows: Day #1: Climbing-specific maximum strength and power exercises; Day #2: Climbing-specific endurance training exercises; Day #3: Antagonist muscle training. Repeat this cycle twice per week. (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.) 44:40 - TIP #5: Be proactive in doing a wide range of things to foster a strong immune system. Eric details 7 specific actionable items towards this end. 54:45 - Final comments about staying healthy, mentally positive, physically strong, and purposeful. Consider reading Viktor Frankl's Man's Search for Meaning: An Introduction to Logotherapy. Learn about PhysiVāntage and how performance nutrition. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products.   PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

In this episode of Ask Coach Hörst...Eric answers 9 wide-ranging questions from listeners. Some of the topics covered are...hangboard training, diagnosing a finger injury, autoregulation use in competition, energy system training, optimal training for a Masters climber, protein requirements, and blood flow restriction training. Listen in! Podcast Rundown 0:15 - Introduction to Ask Coach Horst 1:45 - About POWERPLEX plant-based protein and collagen alternative for vegan climbers. Use checkout code PODCAST15 to save 15% off full-price PhysiVantage products. 3:05 - Question #1 - What are your thoughts on hangboard training on climbing days...as well as on consecutive days? 7:50 - Question #2 - Can you give me some insight into my finger injury...which is painful at the base of the ring finger, but also extends down into the palm and forearm? 10:10 - Question #3 - What's the optimal length of rest between strength/power exercises and powerful bouldering? 14:15 - Question #4 - What do you think about the use of auto-regulation on competition days? Might the findings potentially hurt the mental state of the athlete? (Learn more about Auto-Regulation in Podcast #44.) 19:00 - Question #5 - How can I incorporate Energy System Training concepts into a periodized training program? (Learn more about Energy System Training in podcasts #21 - #28.) 26:00  - Question #6 - What advice do you have for a 50-something climber wanting to train right and climb for many years to come? 32:54 - Question #7 - How much protein do I need to consume daily to recover optimally? 41`:40 - Question #8 - When doing weighted pull-ups should I go down the whole way or should I maintain a bit of arm-bend at the bottom? 45:40 - Question #9 - I'd like to do some blood flow restriction training (BFR) -- what protocol do you recommend for a healthy climber? PLEASE write an iTunes review of the T4C podcast, and consider sharing this podcast with a friend or on social media. Learn about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage  and how performance nutrition can help you train harder and climb better. Thank yous: La Sportiva, Maxim Ropes, DMM Climbing, Friction Labs, Organic Climbing. Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! And on Instagram at: Training4Climbing

4 Tips to Improve the Quality of Your Training and Accelerate Progress Toward Your Goals! It's been said that the definition of insanity is doing the same thing expecting to get different results. Progress demands change. Doing hard things demands great change. Uncommon success demands uncommon self-awareness, discipline, and effort. This podcast presents four ways to refine, re-invent, or perhaps completely overhaul your training to get better results in the pursuit of your goals. RUNDOWN 8:50 - Develop a detailed and compelling game plan for 2020. On a calendar, block in possible road trips, competitions, and other major life events. Consider what additional shorter trips (weekends and holidays) you can schedule. Now, think about developing a training plan to be maximally effective for preparing you for each trip. Don't forget to include a 3 to 7 days "training taper" before significant trips. 11:45 - Refine, re-invent, or overhaul your training! Do you do the same familiar training program day after day? Are you now training in the same basic ways you did one year ago? If so, it's time for a change! Listen closely for ideas how....and beware of the "shiny object"! 25:55 - Begin using Auto-Regulation before every serious climbing-specific workout. This is a big-time tip! Pretty much all elite athletes use auto-regulation, and so should you! In this section, I describe 4 "stages" of recovery, and how you can determine your stage of climbing-specific recovery on any given workout day. Listen closely, and develop your own personalized progressive warm-up to accurately auto-regulate all of your serious climbing workouts. 57:40 - Add a new element to your training! Something you don’t ever do…or do infrequently. It must be climbing-specific and it must make sense to do…in terms of addressing a physical or technical weakness. View this new thing as a wild card—something that you might be apprehensive or scared to do. Sometimes in climbing, the thing you fear or avoid is exactly what you NEED to do to open the door to another level of performance. Watch video of Alex Megos wall campusing with perfect technique. SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 15% with checkout code: PODCAST15 Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing! Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

It's the dawn of a new decade, and so I wanted to take this rare opportunity to record a unique and, hopefully, impactful podcast. The topic is...effective training for the climb that is your life. This is a short and fast-paced episode, so I hope that you can find some quiet time to listen closely...and think critically about the 10 tips and concepts that I present. Please listen with an open mind. Search for clues to answering the very important question: "how can I become more effective at pursuing my life goals...and enjoying every day along the way?" I strongly recommend writing down some new and inspiring goals for 2020 (and beyond). Now, immediately get to work on developing a system for reaching your goals. Exude a bias for action each and every day, and I guarantee that many of your goals will be realized! RUNDOWN 0:20 – Intro to the 10 tips and concepts for effective training for life! 2:00 -  Concept #1: The quality of your life is directly related to the quality of your thoughts. 4:11 - Concept #2: To outperform the masses, you must do things they don't do. 6:05 - Concept #3: Clarity of values and goals—and a clear purpose for living—form the foundation for a life full of rich and transcending experiences. 7:25 - Tip #4:  Once you have set a compelling goal, you MUST develop a dynamic intelligent system of action…that will maximize the effectiveness of your daily efforts. Listen to podcast #42 for in-depth coverage >> 8:25 - Concept #5: Risk is a precursor to reward, and almost anything is possible once you conquer the fear of taking calculated risks. 10:00 - Concept #6: Singular focus and indomitable persistence know no limits. This is where you need to channel your inner CHHOM. What’s CHHOM? Listen to podcast #37 to learn the superpowers of top climbers>> 10:50 - Concept #7: Obstacles and adversity make you stronger—and, they are often a blessing in disguise. 11:45 - Tip #8: Life is subtle: sweat the small stuff, NOT the big stuff. (This is the opposite of conventional wisdom—however, conventional wisdom is the way of the masses…and often NOT the way to uncommon success.) 16:10 - Concept #9: The most critical pivot points in life are often that brief moment between stimulus and response. Your destiny is a result of all the decisions you make, and so it’s vital that you are fully engaged in the decision-making process as often as possible. 17:25 - Tip #10: Enjoy this moment: this moment is your life! Every passing minute and every single day….is a minute and a day that you will never get back. It's life currency spent (or invested) and now gone. Therefore, what could be more valuable than being fully engaged—mind, body, and spirit—in everything you do? 19:12 - My Happy New Year 2020 toast to you, Dear Listener... SUPPORT THIS PODCAST! Visit PhysiVantage.com to learn about the first complete line of nutritional products designed by climbers, for climbers. PhysiVantage products are research-based...and they work! Get a physical advantage, beginning today! Save 10% with checkout code: SAVE10 Want to learn more about training? Check out the 3rd edition of the international best-seller Training for Climbing! Please SHARE this podcast with a friend, and write a REVIEW in iTunes. Thank you! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Effective training can't be haphazard, nor done ad-lib. In this podcast, you'll learn a supremely effective conceptual model for training that adopts an "intelligent system" approach. Eric describes the nine elements of an intelligent system, and how you can incorporate this system to optimize training results and accelerate goal pursuit! RUNDOWN 1:30 – Intro to the TFC podcast 3:19 – Learning to climb is simple; learning how to train effectively is complex! 8:10 – Employing a “systems” approach to your training and goal pursuit. 10:32 – The value of waking each morning with a mission. 16:20 – Eric shares some climbing history…and names 5 legendary, transformative climbers that influenced him and helped inspire this systems approach to training/climbing. 17:55 - #1 Warren Harding…applied a mission approach to big wall climbing…and took commitment and suffering to a new level. 20:00 - #2 John Gill – The father of modern bouldering and training for climbing. Read his biography, Masters of Rock (by Pat Ament). Gill was climbing V9 (in hiking boots) in 1959! 22:00 - #3 Wolfgang Gullich – Applied a systems approach to training and hard climbing…and opened up the world’s first 5.14a, 5.14b, and 5.14d. Wolfgang helped invent the campus board, a climbing-specific form of plyometric training. 23:50 - #4 Todd Skinner – A pioneer of big wall free climbing, hard bouldering, and limit sport climbing, Todd employed a mission approach to climbing on a massive “all-in” and multi-year scale. 25:15 - #5 Lynn Hill – First female 5.14 ascent, World Cup Champion, and Free Ascent of The Nose of El Cap (1994). Lynn, like the other four legendary climbers, employed a systems approach to her climbing life. 27:40 – Two more important influences: my parents! My father, an engineer and inventor, helped shape my innate sense of needing to employ a systems approach to training/climbing. 29:10 – (oh yeah, climbing influence #6)….Jim Collins, a leading climber in the early1980s; later a best-selling author and business consultant, Jim described my mega-goal concept as a "BHAG". Big Audacious Hairy Goal!   30:30 – Conceptual model of a “System”. 30:40 - Five elements of an open system: 1. Input, 2. Output, 3, Structure, 4. Transport, 5. Conversion. 33:30 – Making a system into an “Intelligent System” with four additional elements: 6. Goal, 7. Sensor, 8. Controller, 9. Disturbance. 40:00 – Applying an Intelligent System approach to your training and goal pursuit. If you’re an advanced or elite climber, then employing a highly personalized system approach to training is essential for pursuing your genetic potential…and mega goals! 42:00 – Some climbing-specific examples of employing an intelligent system approach to training. Examples of how each system element relates to daily training activities and mission pursuit. 53:35 – Tips for applying a systems approach to your training and non-training activities 55:00 – Importance of having a mega-goal. What’s your BHAG? You also need a series of short-term goals to make your journey more rich and enjoyable…and to help maintain motivation and a sense of progress. 57:00 – Importance of consciously selecting your INPUTs—training, rest, food, things you do to support recovery, etc. 1:01:50 – SENSOR…your subjective sense of movement quality and fatigue while climbing and training; but also via objective measures...such as tracking of metrics of fitness (grip strength, bodyweight, etc.) 1:04:30 – The power of DISTURBANCES to covertly sabotage your training and knock you off course from your goals. Strive to anticipate, avoid, or quickly course-correct. 1:07:20 – Most important: Be proactive and fully engaged in the process of training, climbing, and living. Don’t be an NPC! 1:09:30 – Wrap-up: PLEASE support this podcast! Visit PhysiVantage.com to explore the first performance nutrition products designed for climbers. These products are research-based, used by pros and amateurs alike…and they work! Save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout. Want to learn more about training? For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

If you're serious about training and climbing your best, then you must be serious about performance nutrition. The foods you consume play a central role in energy production, training adaptations, muscle recovery, connective tissue health, and your strength-to-weight ratio. Combined, these nutritional influences are nearly as significant as the influence of your training program--and, if you get both your training and nutrition right, then a powerful synergy will elevate your performance to a new level! RUNDOWN 00:40 – Intro to performance nutrition. Why it's important. 4:16 - As a guiding principle, climbers should "eat and train" not "diet and exercise." 5:19 - A short story about an aspiring elite climber... 6:40 - One of my favorite sayings...and a powerful guiding principle: "To outperform the masses you must do things they don't do." 7:00 - Pro tip: Eschew group think. Live by your own light. Build your own optimal system to reach your goals. 9:10 - Performance nutrition must be personalized. Many factors are at play...so it will take some effect to get it right. 15:45 - Nutrition is not a black & white topic. There are few "never eat" foods--enjoying rich foods is one of life's great pleasures.  Moderation and discipline are critical, however. 18:00 - Beware of the flood of training and nutrition articles on the Internet (and social media posts). Some have great info, but many contain training and nutrition "fake news". 20:15 - Climbing is a strength-to-weight and power-to-weight ratio sport. Therefore, bodyweight is a critical factor and it should be optimized via smart training and nutrition. Caloric restriction may be valuable leading up to periods of performance climbing or competition. 24:15 - Your training and nutrition must be shaped to match your goals. The guidance of a veteran trainer and climbing-knowledgable nutritionist can be invaluable. 26:30 - Definition of "high-quality weight loss" -- this is the goal for elite climbers wanting to maximize performance. 27:30 - How to best create a slight caloric deficit to optimize body composition before competition or performance climbing. 28:50 - High-quality protein is essential for maintaining muscle mass, strength, and power during periods of hard training and/or caloric restriction. The protein requirement is 1.2 to 1.6 grams/kg of body weight per day. Supplementary protein, ideally a high-quality whey isolate, is often necessary to meet this goal while restricting calories. 30:30 - The importance of Leucine, especially in your post-exercise feeding. 31: 08 - Carbohydrate backloading as a powerful performance nutrition and recovery strategy. 34:00 - The value of post-exercise and bedtime whey protein isolate and/or micellar casein. Vegans should consider a pea protein supplement powder. 34:30 - Eric weights in on "fad diets"...low carb, keto, paleo, high carb, etc. 36:00 - The importance of adequate carbohydrates for power and strength-endurance athletes such as climbers. 38:00 - Eric's recommended macronutrient ratio...approximately 60% carbohydrates, 20% protein, and 20% fat. 39:23 - Eric's pyramid paradigm for healthy eating for peak performance. A balanced diet is the pyramid base, while sport-specific nutrition and supplements form the pyramid top. 41:54 - Regarding sports supplements--if you're eating right, then you may get added benefits from certain supplements. 43:30 - Eric briefly mentions the company he founded--PhysiVantage makes the first research-based supplements for climbers. 44:16 - What supplements might work for climbers? 44:30 - Post-workout/post-climbing protein can jump start and accelerate muscle and connective tissue recovery. 45:00 - BCAAs may have some value in a performance setting, but as a regular training aid there could be unintended consequences that may compromise muscle quality and performance in the long run. 47:00 - The importance of increasing muscle quality and muscle efficiency over the long term--this is the pathway to stronger more powerful muscles without gaining weight. 50:00 - What about creatine for climbers? Micro-doses may benefit, but creatine "loading" will likely hurt performance. 53:40 - Anti-oxidants (e.g. vitamin C, E, selenium) will limit the hormetic response to training and potentially reduce desired training adaptations in the long run. 56:45 - Supplements to "prime" the aerobic energy system and increase oxygen kinetics have great promise. Beetroot extract and citrulline malate will likely enhance climbing performance and recovery between bouts of high-intensity exercise. 1:01:00 - What about caffeine? 1:02:30 - Anaerobic lactic system buffers, beta alanine and sodium bicarbonate, have some potential benefits. 1:06:10 - Is a daily multivitamin helpful? What about minerals? 1:07:00 - A chunk of dark chocolate eaten each day has health and performance value. Seriously! 1:08:30 - The benefits of vitamin-C-enriched hydrolyzed collagen for climbers. Supporting connective tissue health is essential for hard-training for climbers. 1:09:32 - A few supplements that don't work... 1:12:00 - Conclusion and closing comments of nutrition for climbers 1:13:00 - Do you value this free podcast? Please write a review, and please share with a friend. SUPPORT ERIC'S CLIMBING BRANDS PhysiVantage makes research-based supplements that will benefit passionate, hard-training climbers! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout. Want to learn more about training? For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Episode #300 is a super special mashup of some of our favorite T4C episodes -- as of October 2019 -- focused on helping you achieve optimum physical and mental health.  The post 300: Best of Time4Coffee’s Health Experts 300th Milestone Mashup  appeared first on Time4Coffee.

In a departure from my usual lecture style podcasts, I'm happy to feature a guest on this month's podcast--Dr. Tyler Nelson, a chiropractic physician and owner of Camp 4 Human Performance in Salt Lake City. This is my first podcast interview in about a decade--I believe my last audio interview was with Alex Honnold soon after his free solo of Half Dome (2008). Maybe some day I'll dig out that podcast from the audio vault and post it here! But I digress. The focus of this podcast is Blood Flow Restriction (BFR) training. This training modality has been around for decades, but has only been recently popularized by some physiotherapists and coaches. Among climbers, perhaps no one is more knowledgable on this topic than Dr. Nelson. In this 40-minute interview we'll explore the different BFR training protocols, and how BFR training may be a beneficial intervention for injured and healthy climbers alike. SUMMARY History of BFR and introduction into training in the USA. The difference between "passive" and "active" BFR. Ischemic preconditioning with passive BFR--complete arterial occlusion for up to 5 minutes with no exercise or loading. Keys for effective active BFR with intermittent loading: 40% to 80% of arterial occlusion pressure--or a subjective cuff tightness of 7 out of 10. Resistance/loading of 20% to 40% of 1RM. Protocol: 30 reps with first set, then 3 more sets of 15 reps with 30 seconds of rest between each set. Perform 3 or 4 exercises per BFR session with 30 to 60 seconds between exercises. Fatigue larger muscles first, then smaller muscles. Use BFR once or twice per week as an adjunct to regular training (for healthy climbers); or do up to 6 days per week, alternating upper-body and lower-body days, in the case of rehab from injury. BFR RESEARCH PAPERS: Blood Flow Restriction Exercise Position Stand: Considerations of Methodology, Application, and Safety (May 2019) The Efficacy of Blood Flow Restricted Exercise: A Systematic Review and Meta-Analysis(Journal of Science and Medice in Sport (2016) American Physical Therapy Association Video - Johnny Owens, PT, MPT, and Stephania Bell, PT, discuss blood flow restriction training within physical therapy. ABOUT PHYSIVANTAGE: I formed PhysiVantage to make research-based, athlete-tested performance nutrition for passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout. Need more Power Endurance? Want faster recovery between boulders or at mid-route rests? Try out the research-based Endure X pre-workout/pre-performance drink mix. Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric and TFC on Facebook! Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Friday September 20, 2019 Episode #096 Termination for Convenience. Those three little words are something that no contractor wants to hear. After all, who wants the government to seek termination actions on their contract. But let's be honest, it does happen. Contract terminations can happen at any time. Sometimes the contractor is at fault and sometimes the contractor is not at fault. Our goal for today’s episode is to educate you on the procedures that transpire when the government terminates a contract. In addition, we will go over the resources available to both parties (government and contractor). Remember the better educated you are the better business decisions you can make. Up next, we will go over the contract termination options used by the government. Types of Contract Terminations There are three types of contract terminations available to the government. The first called Terminate for Convenience otherwise known as T4C. The second called Termination for Default otherwise known as T4D. The third termination called the no-cost cancelation. Generally, contracts greater than $25,000 will contain a contract clause allowing the government to terminate the contract if the contractor defaults on the contract. The reason for this is obvious. The government needs to protect itself. Because it is in the government's best interest to do so. The Government will use a Termination for Convenience clause when it is in the Government’s best interest to do so. If you have been following along with our episodes, you will notice that this is a common theme with the government. In essence, this allows the Government an exit strategy. The government can now discontinue a contract due to technological developments that make the contract obsolete. Perhaps there is a lack of funding due to budgetary restrictions. Finally, the government can terminate the contract because the work is no longer needed. Thus, allowing the government to reallocate taxpayer money for something that needed by the government. Essentially this clause avoids liability for the government for a Breach of Contract action by a contractor. Next we will look at the Federal Acquisition Regulation (FAR) references for Termination of Convenience. FAR References for Termination of Convenience Below, I have included the FAR references for Termination for Convenience: • 52.249.1 & 2 – Fixed Price • 52.249.3 – Dismantling, Demolition, or Removal of Improvements • 52.249.4 - Services • 52.249.5 - Educational & Other Nonprofit Institutions • 52.249.6 - Cost-Reimbursement • 52.249.7 - Fixed Price Architect-Engineer   It is important that you review the clauses contained in your contract. Generally these clauses are the only ones that the contracting officer can use. Make sure to go to the FAR and read about each clause. Make sure that you not only read but comprehend what is contain in the clause. Sometimes the wrong clauses added to a contract. If you suspect that a clause is not relevant contact your contracting officer immediately. Do this before you even begin work on the contract. Notifications As we discussed earlier, a termination for convenience allows the government to terminate all or part of a contract for its convenience. When the government terminates a contract for convenience, they must notify you in writing. The notice of termination must contain an effective date of the termination, the extent of the termination and any special instructions. What do you mean when you say the extent of termination? Well, the government may not eliminate the entire contract but only a portion of the contract. Thus, leaving part of the contract still intact. If the government leaves part of the contract intact then you, the contractor, will need to perform the parts of the contract that the government did not remove. Next we will discuss termination notices. Termination Notice The termination notice will instruct the contractor to stop work immediately only on the terminated portion of the contract. This includes any subcontractors that are performing work on a portion contract that the government is terminating. However, the contractor and subcontractors must still perform the portions of the contract that are not terminated. In addition, the government will settle termination claims from both the contractor and its subcontractors. Good to know right! You must follow the instructions in the termination notice. If you fail to do so you are opening yourself up to risk and expense. The government will include detail instructions on the protection and preservation of all property that is or may become government owned. Do not under any circumstances continue to perform work on any portion of the contract that the government is terminating! The chances of you being reimbursed for expenses is low. Next, we will talk about the settlement process. Settlement Because the government is eliminating part or all of a contract they still must compensate you for the work that you have performed and any preparations that were taken before the termination. In addition, the government is required to make a fair and prompt settlement with you. Generally, this will result in a negotiated agreement between both parties. The objective here is to compensate you fairly and fully for the work you have done and for any preparation you have made for the terminated portion of the contract. Also a reasonable allowance for profit is also included. This settlement is much easier in cost-reimbursement contract since you were reimbursed on a cost basis since the beginning of the contract. Furthermore, you are entitled to recover all allowable costs incurred in settling a termination for convenience. These reimbursable costs include: • Costs incurred for work completed and accepted at the time of the Termination; • In addition, costs considered include allowable, allocable, and reasonable; • Don't forget your profit on the above costs incurred; and • Finally, close-out, demobilization, and settlement proposal costs associated with preparing a final cost proposal for submission to the government are allowable, less profit.   As soon as you receive notification that the government is going to terminate a portion or the whole contract start gathering the above information. It is in your best interest to be as detailed as possible. Besides you do not want to leave money on the table. Termination - Settlement Agreement More importantly, the government will retain the right to approve or ratify any settlements made with subcontractors. Once the government and the contractor agree to all or part of your compensation claim as a result of the termination, a written amendment is made to the contract. This is known as a settlement agreement. Your contracting officer will amend the contract accordingly. Under normal circumstances a termination will stop regular payments to you under a contract. However, since you may have money tied up in finished and unfinished products, materials and labor, most termination clauses provide you with interim financing through partial payments. In fact, discuss this with your contracting officer as soon as possible. In future articles, we will discuss your rights for termination for convenience. Make sure to sign up to our newsletter so that you are kept up to date on our latest articles. Don't have time to read? Check out our podcast or YouTube channel for more information.

This is fourth in a series on sinew training with a specific focus on climbing injuries and prevention. Incidence of climbing injuries is growing, and overuse injuries to the fingers, elbows, and shoulders are common among beginners and expert alike. Eric lays out the perfect storm of factors that make upper extremity overuse injuries so common. You will learn countermeasures to reduce your injury risk and increase tendon health and finger flexor pulley strength. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for you! RUNDOWN 0:24 – Intro to this episode and a quick recap of the previous episodes in this series. Be sure to listen to the first three podcasts in this series: Episode #33: Sinew Training #1 - Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments Episode #34: Sinew Training #2 - A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers Episode #36: Sinew Training #3 -Training to Increase Tendon Strength, Muscle Power, and Connective Tissue Health 1:45 - Overuse injuries are incredibly common...almost every avid climber will experience tweaks (or worse) in their fingers, elbows, and/or shoulders. So the information covered in these podcasts is game-changing if you want to reduce injury risk and climb better. 3:20 - Eric introduces the three parts of this podcast...the 3 factors that combine to form a perfect storm for climbing injuries. 7:10 - Latest information from the Climbing Medicine Symposium in Squamish Canada in August. 10:24 - The latest data on types of climbing injuries and the injury trends over the last 20 years. 15:36 - A "Perfect Storm" brewing for climbing injuries. Understanding the storm will empower you to reduce injury risk and return from injury more quickly. There are 3 factors combining to build this storm. 17:00 - Perfect Storm Factor #1 - Climbing involves repetitive high-force loading on small body parts...including tiny tendons and ligaments in the fingers. 21:25 -Perfect Storm Factor #2 - Climbing is an addictive activities...and so we tend to climb a lot and rest too little. Furthermore, how your muscles feel (recover) isn't a good gauge of tendon recovery--we often climb again when our muscles feel recovered, yet the connective tissues take longer to recover from hard training/climbing. A vicious cycle of collagen breakdown in connective tissues begins... 33:10 -  Perfect Storm Factor #3 - Poor nutritional habits and/or undernourishment. Deficiency in collagen-specific amino acids (Glycine & proline) are at the heart of the matter--if you're deficient in these two amino acids, then you're not synthesizng collagen optimally...and you may be in a chronic state of net collagen degradation...and on the fast track to injury. 41:45 - Not all proteins are created equal..in fact, the amino acid profile of foods varies widely...and most non-animal products are low in glycine and proline. 44:00 - The importance of consuming enough glycine and proline during periods of physical and mental stress, injury, and illness. Consuming 7 - 10 grams of glycine per day is a wise goal for serious athletes. 46:30 - What foods and supplements are highest in glycine? 50:50 - Vegan sources of glycine. 52:00 - The most glycine-rich food on the planet? Gelatin...and the more refined version (more easily mixed and digested) is Hydrolyzed Collagen. 54:40 - The research that changed my life....and how it reveals that we can possibly double collagen synthesis in our tendons, pulleys, ligaments. This is revolutionary information for serious climbers! 58:00 - Learn about the specific coupled training-nutritional intervention shown to target glycine and profile from hydrolyzed collagen to a specific body part...your fingers...injured pulleys...elbows...shoulders...knees...whatever. This really works! 1:00:00 - Why it's ideal to consume hydrolyzed collagen on an empty stomach before finger training, climbing, or rehab. Also learn about Eric's 6-minute finger workout you can do every day. 1:02:00 - Tips for those wanting to rehab an injury as fast as possible. 1:03:00 - Learn about Supercharged Collagen and why this is the most advanced collagen protein on the market....and the only product designed from specifically for power athletes. 1:06:00 - 6 things you can do to AVOID the perfect storm! 1:18:40 - Final thoughts on the power of this information...and how it can change your climbing for the better for many years to come. 1:19:00 - Help spread the word...please SHARE with a friend and please WRITE a review. ABOUT PHYSIVANTAGE: I formed PhysiVantage to make research-based, athlete-tested supplements that will benefit passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 10% off non-sale items with the code “save10” at checkout. Need more Power Endurance? Want faster recovery during and between boulders or routes? Try out the research-based Endure X pre-workout/per-performance drink mix. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Episode #200 is a fun and fascinating mashup of some of our favorite T4C episodes as of July 2019 which include (in order of appearance): The post 200: Best of Time4Coffee’s 200th Milestone Mash-Up  appeared first on Time4Coffee.

What makes great climbers great? What are the distinct and rare character traits that make climbers like Tommy Caldwell, Alex Honnold, Margo Hayes, Adam Ondra, and Alex Megos (I call this group "CHHOM")--and others like them--the barrier-breaking and transcendent climbers that they are? You might be thinking of things like "strong fingers", "low bodyfat, and "excellent sponsorship". Surely these are part of the equation, however, I believe the true Superpowers of these climbers are things you can't measure with a fitness test or financial summary. In this podcast I present the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers--traits you can develop (gradually) to achieve great success on the rock and in your everyday life. I hope you find this presentation enjoyable and empowering! Rundown 0:58 - Introduction 2:50 - What does it take to turn an elite climber into one of the very best climbers on the planet? 8 Superpowers of the Very Best Climbers 5:28 - #1: Becoming comfortable with physical and mental discomfort. 11:53 - #2: Uncommon self-awareness and the willingness to embrace failures and personal weaknesses. 16:00 - #3: Effective goal setting and a habitual bias for action. 21:37 - #4: The power to sacrifice greatly. 27:00 - #5: Maintaining a beginner's mindset despite being a higherly praised elite climber. 34:56 - #6: The power to handle failure and overcome adversity. 38:30 - #7: The power to handle their "addiction". 45:44 - #8: The power NOT to care what other people think. 50:00 - Summary of the 8 Superpowers of the very best climbers. 51:15 - Do you have a #9 or #10 superpower to suggest? Leave your comment on Eric's T4C Twitter @Train4Climbing 52:15 - A brief word about Eric's new brand PhysiVāntage -- the first research-based, athlete-tested nutritional supplements for climbers! Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!  

T4c_3_AlgorithmeDeL'Amour by The400cast

T4c_2_SécuritéMarchésFinanciers by The400cast

Sinew training. What the heck is that? Chances are you've never heard of "sinew training"...or even thought about it. After all, genetics and "luck" dictate the properties of our tendons and ligaments, right? WRONG! A growing body of recent research has shown that athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, higher performing tendons and ligaments by way of specific training and nutritional interventions. If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain, then this podcast will be game-changer for you! This podcast is the third in a series on sinew training. You will learn about the structure of connective tissues, and how you can intervene in your connective tissue health and function...and elevate your power and power-endurance in the process. It's exciting stuff! Be sure to revisit the first two podcasts in this series episode #33 and episode #34, and don't miss the conclusion of this series in episode #37 coming in early July! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Introduction to these ground-breaking podcasts on how you can play an active role in developing stronger, more robust and higher-performance tendons, ligament pulleys (A2 and such). Be sure to listen to the first two podcasts in this series: Episode #33: Sinew Training #1 - Intro to Training for Stronger Tendons and Ligaments Episode #34: Sinew Training #2 - A Revolution in Finger Training for Climbers 2:35 – Eric explains why connective tissue injuries are so common among climbers... 4:00 - Quick review of the new research on muscle and tendon adaptations....which dispell many of the old myths about tendons and ligaments. 9:00 - Eric outlines the 5 parts of this podcast... 12:30 - Part 1: Foundational information about the tendon, ligament, and muscle extracellular matrix (ECM) structure. It's all about proper collagen alignment, supporting net gains in collagen synthesis via adequate rest, and proper hydration. Factoid: gram for gram, collagen is stronger than steel! 26:00 - Part 2: Eric details the subtle, yet vitally important adaptations to training in tendon, ligament, and ECM. Learn the importance of--and differences--between strengthening and stiffening connective tissues. This is hugely important information for fine tuning your tendons for health and periods of performance climbing (or competition). 31:00 - Adaptation #1: Collagen synthesis. Important detail on collagen synthesis following training/climbing. Given adequete rest, a net gain in collagen molecules can result in a very gradual tendon hypertrophy. Factiod: The tendons of veteran climbers may be as much as 50% thicker than lesser experienced climbers. 36:00 - Adaptation #2: Enzymatic crosslinking...a more quick-developing adaptation that can increase connective tissue stiffness and performance. Although certain exercises protocols will actually reduce crosslinking and stiffness--some important distinctions here! 42:48 - Part 3: Learn about 6 confounding factors in collagen synthesis, crosslinking, and connective tissue health. You MUST know this information...and think critically about what factors may make you at greater risk for connective tissue injury...or slow recovery from training/climbing. 50:35 - Part 4: Training interventions for developing stronger, thicker tendons and annular (finger) tendon pulleys, stiffer more robust connective tissues, and how you can reduce stiffness and increase tendon health in the case of tendinopathy or other soft tissue injury. Get ready for a massive download of important information on specific training interventions and protocols for improve tendon/ligament strength....and increasing (or decreasing) connective tissue stiffness. Engaging in a highly personalized program is key! 1:07:08 - Part 5: The revolutionary research-derived nutritional intervention shown to increase collagen synthesis after targeted exercise. IMO, this is truly revolutionary information for power-endurance athletes such as rock climbers. The key is to consume vitamin C-enriched high-quality hydrolyzed collagen 30 to 60 minute BEFORE you engage in targeted exercise--only this way will the glycine and proline in the blood stream reach the synovial fluid and get drawn into the tendons and ligaments support up to a doubling of collage synthesis. 1:14:10 - How to spike glycine, proline, and vitamin C as you train your fingers? Consume Supercharged Collagen and follow the research-based training protocol and you may be able to double collagen synthesis after climbing-specific exercise. Available only from PhysiVāntage! 1:18:20 - Guidelines for proper Supercharged Collagen use and optimal benefit...and how to use it to support recovery from training and/or rehab of a connective tissue injury. 1:22:50 - Podcast wrap-up--PLEASE write and review and SHARE with your partners and friends. IMPORTANT NOTES: I formed PhysiVantage to make research-based supplements that will benefit passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 15% off non-sale items with the code “podcast15” at checkout. Info on three great events I’ll be appearing at this summer. Then 26th annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY (July 10 – 14, 2019). The Canada Strong Climbing coaches conference (August 6 – 9, 2019). Climbing Medicine Canada (August 12 – 14, 2019) in Squamish, BC. Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s TRAINING FOR CLIMBING YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

This may be the most important podcast you've heard in a long time...or, perhaps, ever! If you engage in hard finger training, frequently push your physical limits, and/or occasionally experience tendon or joint pain...then this podcast could be a game-changer for you. Traditionally, tendons and ligaments (such as the A2 pulleys of the fingers) have been viewed as inert structures that changed little after adolescence. We now know, however, that these connective tissues are dynamic and metabolically active. New studies provide clues as to how athletes can play an active role in developing stronger, more robust, and higher performance connective tissues. This is a revolutionary distinction for hard-training climbers...and it may change the way you train, eat, and recover going forward. This podcast is the second in a series on sinew training for improved health and enhanced performance. Revisit podcast #33 for an introduction to the topic. Podcasts #34 and #35 will break much new ground on the topic of training for climbing--don't miss them! RUNDOWN 0:15 – Introduction to this series of 4 podcasts on connective tissue training—this is revolutionary information. 2:07 – Question: What sport is as hard on tendons and ligaments as climbing? Is there one? Perhaps not. Consider that finger flexor tendon pulleys are just 1 to 2 mm thick, yet they have to carry a large percentage of a climber’s body weight. 4:00 – Collagen-based tissues carry the load, from muscle to fingertips, with every hold you grab…every move you make…every lunge you make! 6:30 – The best climber in the world isn’t the best if he’s injured. Injuries, big and small, are setbacks that change your trajectory. 7:35 – New paradigm: Your top priority in training for climbing: Develop stronger tendons, pulleys, and muscle matrix. 8:45 – Sinew have poor blood flow, and therefore may be poorly nourished. 9:30 – Key distinction: collagen breaks down with every intense work. Collagen synthesis takes 72 hours (or more) to remodel the connective tissue. 11:00 – Too much collagen breakdown and too little recovery time between workouts may lead to injury. 11:50 – Sinew gets much of their nutrition from fluid diffusion during mechanical loading (climbing and training). Therefore, consuming Supercharged Collagen 30 to 60 minutes training is the optimal nutritional protocol for supporting collagen synthesis in finger tendons and ligament pulleys. 15:30 – Anything you can do to promote collagen synthesis and connective tissue remodeling is a game-changer for a hard training climber. It’s with this goal in mind that I founded PhysiVantage. 16:30 – Learn about my new brand PhysiVāntage and our flagship product, Supercharged Collagen. This is a totally novel and premium produce. 19:40 – The genesis of PhysiVāntage—almost three years in the making. Here’s the back story. 22:00 – How decreasing collagen turnover after age 30 slows recovery and may increase the risk of injury. 25:50 – Most important amino acids for collagen synthesis are glycine, proline, hydroxyproline—these are hard to come by if you don’t consume a lot of meat. 27:30 – I created Supercharged Collagen to provide climbers with the perfect glycine and proline-rich pre-workout supplements for feeding their sinew the nutrients for optimal collagen synthesis. It’s research-based and athlete-tested. 32:00 – A quick research review. Here are six of the more than a dozen studies that I drew on in developing Supercharged Collagen. 41:20 – 6 questions and answers… 41:45 – Question #1: Will Supercharged Collagen fix my injury? (No, but it may enhance your rehabilitation program and, possibly, accelerate your return to climbing.) 43:20 – Question #2: How much Supercharged collagen should I consume each day? (One to three servings per day, depending on your situation.) 45:15 – Learn the benefits of doing a brief (15 minutes) “protective workout” each morning. This may be the biggest secret to building stronger tendons and ligaments in the long term! 47:40 – Question #3: What usage do I recommend for injured climbers? (First, see a doctor for a correct diagnosis. Second, research indicates that a 15 to 20 gram serving, 30 to 60 minutes before exercise, is ideal for supporting injury rehab.) 49:20 – Question #4: Can I consume Supercharged Collagen post-workout as a protein source for muscles. (Yes! But consuming a high-quality Whey protein is just as good for muscle recovery.) 50:35 – Question #5: Is there a vegan version of Supercharged Collagen? (No, there’s no such thing as vegan hydrolyzed collagen.) 52:08 – Question #6: How long does it take to feel the beneficial effects of Supercharged Collagen? (It’s unlikely you’ll feel much difference in your sinew short-term, however, multiple studies have shown a statistically significant reduction in joint pain from several months of collagen peptide use.) 55:00 – I formed PhysiVantage to my difference-making supplements for passionate climbers who place great demands on their bodies! Visit PhysiVantage.com and save 15% off non-sale items with the code “podcast15” at checkout. 56:40 – Info on three great events I’ll be appearing at this summer. Then 26th annual International Climbers Festival in Lander, WY (July 10 – 14, 2019). The Canada Strong Climbing coaches conference (August 6 – 9, 2019). Climbing Medicine Canada (August 12 – 14, 2019) in Squamish, BC. 59:25 – If you enjoyed this podcast—please SHARE it with your friends and on your social media, and consider writing a review on iTunes. Get 15% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code PODCAST15 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Jim Hallmark is the Director of Finance, Investment & Trade at the Millenium Challenge Corporation (MCC). Since 2008, Jim has worked tirelessly with members of his team to help developing countries structure and manage public private partnerships (PPPs) and other types of blended finance transactions to develop infrastructure and other public services in Africa, Eurasia and Latin America. But the work doesn’t stop there. Jim has also seen his fair share of law books, working as a finance attorney in private law firms representing investors and companies in U.S. and international equity & debt financings, mergers & acquisitions, business start-ups, and licensing arrangements. With a resumé already loaded with experience, Jim co-founded the Latin American Private Equity & Venture Capital Association (LAVCA), a non-profit member organization that supports private equity & venture capital in Latin America through education, networking, research and advocacy. If you are passionate about the fight against global poverty and have dreamed about breaking into the world of foreign aid, then you’ll definitely want to grab your mug and take a chug of your favorite caffeinated brew and press play on this T4C episode! The post 152: What the Director of Finance, Investment & Trade at the Millenium Challenge Corporation (MCC) Does w/ Jim Hallmark, MCC [Main T4C episode] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Margaret Richardson is Chief of Staff to the President & Editor-in-Chief of Devex, a media platform for the global development community. Margaret’s primary responsibilities include providing critical, high-level support and strategic guidance to her boss, assisting in Devex external affairs and high-level communications, engaging and managing key influencers and business development opportunities, and developing and executing special projects as needed. Margaret also manages and support efforts to lead the Devex People team which is focused on internal Talent and Culture.  Margaret started her career working as an intern for the Angus King for Senate political campaign. She received her Bachelor’s in 2014 from Smith College where majored in Political Science and Government. Press play on this T4C episode if you want to learn how to turn an interest in politics or government or even the media or international development into a super interesting career track! The post 143: What It’s Like to Be a Chief of Staff w/ Margaret Richardson, Devex [Main T4C episode] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Get ready for some breakthrough research-based information that, I believe, is revolutionary for hard-training climbers! The topic is sinew training—that is, new training and nutritional interventions shown to promote tendon, ligament, and muscle matrix strength and health. We all know how hard climbing (and training) is on the flexor tendons and ligament pulleys of the fingers, as well as the elbows and shoulders; so what could be more valuable to climbers than strategies to improve sinew health, strength, and performance? This is an information-rich podcast that might require a couple of listens...to determine how you can best apply and benefit from this new material. The next three podcasts will expand on this topic with details on specific training interventions for strengthening (and rehabbing) sore or tweaked tendons and pulleys. If you are a proactive, early adapter kind of person, then this is cutting-edge information I'm sure you'll be all over...like chalk on a crux hold! A final note: If you enjoy this podcast, then please share it with a friend, post to social media, or write a review. Thank you! Rundown 1:00 – Introduction to a new series of podcasts on sinew training—how to develop stronger, stiffer, healthier tendons and ligaments. This is the first of four episodes in the series…breaking new ground that I feel is revolutionary for climbers. 3:00 – Tendons and ligaments are not inert—they change and adapt to training in adulthood, but at a much slower rate than muscles do. And, sinew training requires unique training modalities and nutritional interventions. PhysiVāntage 5:20 – A quick rundown of the next 3 episodes in this series….and the exciting ground I’ll be covering. 7:00 – Eric gives a brief introduction of himself and his background for new listeners. Additional comments of recent advances in training for climbing. 10:10 – A reflection on last year’s series of podcasts on Energy System Training—powerful material for intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. If you haven’t already, listen to these podcasts! # ??? 13:00 – Introduction to sinew training…and the exciting new sport science I’m bringing to the climbing world in this series of podcasts. 15:30 – The importance of training to avoid injury and stay healthy, so that you can reach your goals! There’s a huge cost to injuries…lost seasons, missed competitions, setbacks and lost seasons. 20:00 – There are decades of knowledge gathered and distributed on muscle training and adaptations…but until recently there’s little research and scant instruction on sinew training. 23:00 – The importance of staying curious! Embracing and applying the latest research is key to progress and breakthroughs in most complex fields/endeavors. 28:00 – Three findings of my two years of research into sinew health and sinew training. 28:30 – Finding #1: Sinew is plastic. Tendons, ligaments, and extracellular muscle matrix change, adapt, and remodel very slowly…and you can play a role in this process! 34:00 – Distinct training and nutritional interventions do influence sinew health, strength, and performance. 35:00 – Finding #2: Tendons can hypertrophy. In certain situations, chronic mechanical loading can lead to slightly hypertrophy over years of exercise. Research has documented that the finger flexor tendons of veteran climbers are up to 50% thicker than non-climbers. 39:00 – Hypertrophy results from long-term training stimulus that slightly degrades collagen…followed by a rise in collagen synthesis during a recovery period of 48 to 72 hours. This cyclic process will gradually build stronger connective tissues given appropriate mechanical loading and rest periods. Nutrition plays an important role in the process, too—more on this in a bit! 41:35 – Sinew has poor blood flow compared to muscles…and there’s scant blood flow to sinew after training. 44:45 – Homeostasis perturbation from long-term overtraining (under-resting and perhaps poor nutrition) leads to disorganized and damaged collagen fibrils…that may be the root cause of the sudden “surprise” finger pulley tweak or onset of painful tendons in the elbows and shoulders. 48:15 – Finding #3: There is a proven nutritional intervention that increases collagen synthesis in connective tissues…and can support sinew recovery and strengthening. Research by Keith Baar and Greg Shaw has shown a doubling of collagen synthesis with vitamin C enriched hydrolyzed collagen consumed 30 to 60 minutes before exercise. 55:30 – Why nutrients consumed after exercise aren’t as effective for nourishing tendons. Synovial fluid diffusion during mechanical loading is the primary method of nourishment to sinew—thus, consuming a glycine and proline rich food before training is the best method of “feeding” sinew. 59:20 – My morning ritual for optimally feeding the tendon and ligaments of my fingers, arms and shoulders—15 minutes to stronger tendons. Supercharged Collagen works! 1:03:00 – You are playing a role in your tendon health…every day! Cease the opportunity to play an active role in the process. 1:04:10 – Introducing PhysiVāntage!  Our flagship product is Supercharged Collagen. Based on the research of Drs. Baar and Shaw, this is the most advanced tendon and ligament support supplement on the market. Use it daily to get a PhysiVantage! Get 10% off at PhysiVantage.com with the discount code SAVE10 at checkout. Instagram - @PhysiVantage Facebook - @PhysiVantage For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Stitcher and  Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

Adam Griffin joins Preston Vincent and Dairy Robot Radio to talk about the advancements in data collection with the new T4C 3.10 update and to offer insight on how to get the most out of your data. Plus, a sneak peek at some cool data transfer capabilities that will be available in June 2019.

Gabriel Sebastian, Program Manager and Advisor to the Maverick Next Board at Population Services International (PSI) was born in South America, raised in Africa and educated in two different European nations. Pretty impressive, huh? He now lives in Mexico where he holds his current position at Population Services International (PSI).  In this short and sweet episode of T4C, he shares essential information on how to break into the field of global health and what to have under your belt before you start applying for larger and more serious positions. His parents are what got him interested in this career track. While you’ll need to make time for the longer interview with Gabriel -- T4C episode #17 -- to find out more about his personal career journey, this quick fix is perfect to find out how you can make your mark in this field. From college classes to little known facts, Gabriel Sebastian has you covered! Press Play on this episode of T4C Espresso Shots to get the details! The post 135: How to Break Into the Global Health Field w/ Gabriel Sebastian, Population Services International [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Devex founder and CEO, Raj Kumar, shares some quick nuggets of knowledge that can help you break into the world of international aid and social enterprises. Raj went from an ambitious undergrad student at Georgetown University in Washington, D.C., to an even more driven grad student at the Harvard JFK School of Government, to dropping out of school to create his dream NGO: Devex, a social enterprise and media platform for the global development industry.  Devex aims to connect and inform development, health, humanitarian and sustainability professionals through news, business intelligence and funding & career opportunities in international development. He goes deep into his personal journey in T4C episode #64, but this shorter Espresso Shots episode is all about helping you get started with building your own career in this industry. If you’re in a rush today and don’t have time to check out the longer T4C episode #64 w/ Raj Kumar, check out these Espresso Shots! Press play and enjoy! The post 134: How to Break Into the Global Development Industry w/ Raj Kumar, Devex [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Scott Lowell is an actor who has plied his trade both onstage and onscreen. After graduating from Connecticut College in 1987 with a BA in Theater, Scott moved to Chicago to begin his career onstage in various productions. Despite being a self-proclaimed ‘theater snob’, Scott’s acting chops eventually led him to various roles on the big screen, playing characters such as Dr. Douglas Filmore in the hit procedural drama Bones. However, Scott is perhaps best known for his role as Ted Schmidt in the television drama Queer as Folk, a series following the lives of five gay men living in Pennsylvania. Since starring in the series, Scott has since made a return to theater, performing in various roles in the Broadway revival of The Elephant Man in 2014. Most notably, he has written, produced, and starred in Adoptable!, a play based on his own story about his journey to find his birth parents. Scott will be the first to tell you that being an actor has its ups, but that it can also be pretty mentally and psychologically taxing. You’ve seen him onscreen, but get ready to hear Scott tackle your important career questions and give you an inside look on the entertainment industry!  Lights, camera… action and press play on this insightful episode of T4C! The post 120: How to Break Into Acting in Theatre & on Screen w/ Scott Lowell, film/TV/theatre actor [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Jason Bellini is an award-winning journalist who reports on and produces multimedia stories for the Wall Street Journal. If you need a blast of passion for a profession, T4C has you covered with today’s Espresso Shots featuring the super straight-talking Jason who broke into the industry through one-man-banding journalism pieces out of a van to more recently, taking a team down to Brazil to shoot for his WSJ series “Moving Upstream.” Jason levels with Java Junkies and tells them that you’ve got to love the work if you want to be a journalist, because you’re going to live it. But don’t get scared off. He’s also found that being a journalist gives you the chance to meet and learn from some of the most interesting, powerful, or powerless people on the planet.  Jason’s experience before working at WSJ include jobs with CNN, NPR, CBS, MTV, Bloomberg TV, and more. He was also recognized as an outstanding LGBTQ journalist in 2006 by the National Lesbian and Gay Journalists Association when he won the Journalist of the Year Award. The post 113: How to Break Into MultiMedia Journalism w/ Jason Bellini, Wall Street Journal [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Jonathan Sackett is the President & Chief Content Officer (CCO) at Allscope Media and Communications.  Have you ever been curious about the advertising industry and how you can get your foot in the door? Well, pour yourself a shot of strong espresso and get ready to hear about the basics of getting into the advertising and marketing world from one of the industry’s experts.   Jonathan has worked for 7 different companies throughout his advertising career where all of his titles have contained the words “Executive”, “Chief”, or “Director”. In fact, he says he was the second professional to have “Chief Digital Officer” as his job title! Impressive alphabet soup aside, today Jonathan tells us all about building your academic experience and resume to make it in the constantly evolving world of marketing and advertising. And if you want to stick around to hear about Jonathan’s personal career journey, listen to his main T4C interview! From graduating from the University of Minnesota to being President of two companies and CCO of Allscope, Jonathan has loved every minute of his career! Press Play on these Espresso Shots if you want to do the same! The post 112: How to Break Into Marketing & Advertising w/ Jonathan Sackett, Allscope [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Jose Castaneda is the Communications Manager for the Information Technology Industry Council (ITI) the trade association for the high tech sector -- from hardware to software to services -- representing the most innovative technology brands in the world.   In this role Jose drafts blog posts for ITI’s policy teams, manages media relations with reporters and leads ITI’s social media efforts. It’s not what he thought he’d be doing when he graduated from the University of Florida, in May 2015, with a double major in Economics and Political Science. However, fortunately for Jose, it’s a job that plays to his strengths: lots of writing, networking and public speaking.   Prior to joining ITI, Jose had several internships which helped to position him for the entry-level communications job that got his foot in the door at ITI as a Communications Associate. Jose’s internships included working at the PR giant Edelman, at Hamilton Place Strategies (HPS) as a Public Affairs intern and at AT&T as a Federal and National Public Affairs intern. Tune in to this episode of T4C to learn how Jose leveraged internships until he finally landed a full-time paying gig. The post 108: How to Break Into Tech Communications w/ Jose Castaneda, ITI [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Elise Gaston Chand has held a number of titles in a few different fields including working in human resources for 3 decades for companies like Starbucks and Yum! Brands-- owner of KFC, Taco Bell and Pizza Hut. Most recently, she started her podcast -- Because of Horses-- in October 2017.  If you’re curious about breaking into Human Resources or the horse industry or both? Well, you’re in luck! This Espresso Shots episode is your one stop shop to finding out ways to explore and break into either field. Elise Gaston Chand has loved horses since she can remember and today --in the longer T4C episode-- Elise tells us how she went from horse crazed toddler to successful author/podcaster. This mini-episode is longer than most and that’s because it’s so valuable and we want our Java Junkies to soak up every last word that Elise shares. So, whether you want a career in HR, the horse industry, or you just love fellow podcaster, Elise Gaston Chand, press Play and enjoy! The post 104: How to Break Into Human Resources & the Horse Industry w/ Elise Gaston Chand, Because of Horses Podcast [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Ben Wittes is the Editor-in-Chief and co-Founder of the Lawfare blog, an online publication dedicated to national security issues, published by the Lawfare Institute in cooperation with the Brookings Institution.  It was started in September 2010 by Wittes, a former editorial writer for the Washington Post, Harvard Law School professor Jack Goldsmith and University of Texas at Austin law professor Robert Chesney.  What started out as a fun little project in 2010, quickly turned into a massive news source for those interested in national security law. In 2017 alone the site had 15 million page views.  If you have ever wanted to be a journalist this is the Espresso Shots episode for you. Brew up a flight of different espresso blends, because you need to be energized for today’s amazing episode. Ben Wittes has been a journalist for more than 2 decades and, despite never going to law school, has a ton of knowledge about writing for an audience of those in the law field. For the next little while, Ben is here to give you some advice on the many ways enter the journalism field with a bang! He’s even got two pieces of advice that haven’t been heard before on T4C, so you should definitely stick around! And, to make this interview even better, Andrea and Ben share plenty of laughs along the way. Wanna add some humor to your mug this morning? Why not press Play? It will be a LATTE of fun! The post 103: How to Break Into Legal & National Security Writing, Journalism & Analysis w/ Ben Wittes, Lawfare Blog [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Ali Breland is the technology reporter covering disinformation on the internet at Mother Jones. In this role Ali reports on Russian trolls, conspiracy theories on social media, surveillance tech, A.I. bias and general malfeasance and accountability reporting in tech. Prior to moving to MJ,  and at the time of our T4C interview, Ali was a technology reporter at The Hill newspaper where he wrote and reported 3-5 news stories a day, in addition to grinding out 1-3 more analytical, deeply reported stories a week.  Not bad for someone who just graduated from UT Austin in 2014 with a B.A. in Plan II and minors in English and Philosophy. To get to where he is now, Ali cut his teeth at The Alcalde (UT Austin Alumni Magazine) as an editorial intern and hustled outside of classes to interview artists and celebrities for CNN, The Christian Science Monitor, and The Huff Post. Ali also dabbled in a wide variety of other interests including winemaking as a Harvest intern (didn’t realize this was a job title) at Patz & Hall Winery and snowboarding.  His love of journalism and technology landed him a bunch of different jobs along the way, including one at POLITICO as a web producer.  Tune in to this episode of T4C to learn how this Java Junkie juggles the stress and demands of being a young journalist. The post 92: How to Break Into Tech Reporting as a Journalist w/ Ali Breland, The Hill newspaper [Espresso Shots] appeared first on Time4Coffee.

New Year's is a great time to think deeply about your goals, re-evaluate your course and strategy, and perhaps even reinvent yourself! Taking your performance to the next level—in climbing or anything—demands CHANGE, courage and commitment, and consistent goal-focused action. In this episode, Eric takes you through a series of thought-provoking exercises and, along the way, he will arm you with powerful techniques and tips to make massive progress toward your climbing and non-climbing goals! Rundown 0:15 – Introduction and New Year’s best wishes! 1:30 – “Climbing performance” and “human performance” are the same thing…so this episode will be wide-ranging. 2:25 – Setting goals isn’t enough—you need a SYSTEM to get you to your goals. 3:15 – This podcast has 5 parts, each with a drill down into a topic that will improve your performance in climbing and beyond. 5:23 – PART 1: Decide that CHANGE is a must! Improving at climbing—or anything—comes no other way. 8:10 – Exercise (pause the podcast): Write down your top 5 to 10 high-value goals/endeavors. Climbing can be one item, but write down your other important life goals (in the next 3 to 10 years). 9:45 – Exercise: Rank your goals in order of importance. Now divide your list into three tiers—the top tier (2 or 3 items) defines your MISSION! 12:50 – Exercise: Now write down 1 or 2 things that MUST give up or change in order to liberate yourself to achieve greatly. What person, activity, or thing is weighing you down…making you miserable and/or consuming your time? 14:45 – Learn how to create massive leverage for change...and supercharge your motivation and progress toward your goals! 17:15 – PART 2: Build Stronger Mental Muscle. Essential for progress, since all performance begins with your thoughts. 18:45 – What we can learn from pro climbers…most of whom exhibit incredible mental muscle, day in and day out. 20:30 – Learn about Eric’s “CHHOM gang” of climbers. What is CHHOM? Who are CHHOM? Strive to be like CHHOM! 22:00 – 4 mental training tips and techniques… 23:20 – a.) Supercharge your visualization. 27:25 – b.) Take control of your self-talk. Keep it 90%+ positive! 31:00 – c.) Act the part. Your posture, facial expression, and attitude create an aura that brings magical energy and synchronicity to you! 33:09 – d.) Surround yourself with positive, goal-oriented, successful people. Also, bathe your mind with positive media, books, images, etc. 35:49 – Side note: Eric’s most powerful book—bet you haven’t read it yet, but you should—is called Maximum Climbing: Mental Training for Peak Performance. A must-read for every serious climber! 36:35 – PART 3: Learn how to Optimize Your Training Program 37:20 – The best training program for you…is one you’re not doing! 38:30 – Advice for Beginner, Intermediate, and Advanced climbers. 40:05 – Access to new technology, the latest sports-science, and novel training techniques is essential for Elite climbers to improve. 41:45 – The difference between “copycat” training and “modeling”—the former is bad, the latter is good! 42: 28 – Access to a good veteran coach is extremely helpful…but you can study and learn to be an effective self-coach. 43:45 – PART 4: Simplify your training—simplify your life! Learn how to apply the 80-20 Rule to improve your effectiveness and advance more quickly toward your goals. 45:05 – Eric reveals one of his weaknesses…and his decade-long battle of passions! 49:05 – Eliminate trivial pursuits, trolls, critics, and naysayers...and you’ll be happier and more effective—just like CHHOM! 50:36 – Learn how to use Pareto's Principle ("the 80-20 Rule") to act more effectively in climbing, training, and other important life aspects. 53:10 – Eric comments on the advantages of occasional two-a-day training for advanced/elite climbers. 54:55 – PART 5: Strong shoulders beget strong finger! Make this a mantra in developing your finger training program. 57:50 – Your fingers are only be as strong as your brain allows! A strong, stable foundation (rotator cuff and scapular stabilizer muscles) is essential for high-end finger training. 1:00:50 – Horst principle: “Develop stability before strength, and strength before power.” This conceptual model will support long-term strength gains and reduce risk. Eric's book Training For Climbing (3rd edition) has a fully chapter (Ch. 6) on exercises for developing comprehensive shoulder stabilizer strength. 1:02:50 – Summary comments about seeing the big picture for motivation and guidance, but narrowing your daily focus on important steps you can take toward your goal. Making meaningful progress towards a goal is the simplest, yet richest source of happiness. 1:05:55 – Check out Eric’s T4C Youtube channel for a short video on how to increase your effectiveness—and accelerate movement towards your goals—in any important life area. If you enjoyed this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. And please write an iTunes review. Thank you! For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes!

This episode provides critical framework and guidelines for effective hangboard training. Based on 30+ years of hangboard training experience--and the latest research--you'll learn the importance of a proper warm up, why you must train different finger grip positions, how to maintain forearm muscle balance and lower injury risk, as well as valuable tips on organizing your hangboard training for optimal results and continued gains in the long-term! Rundown 0:22 - Introduction 2:00 - Detailed description of the new ULTIMATE BOARD, designed by Hörst and manufactured by Nicros. Purchase here >> 11:20 - Who should hangboard train? Guidelines for beginner, intermediate, advanced, and elite climbers. 17:30 - The value of hangboard training for intermittent year-round...and the importance of finding your "best" personalized program. 18:45 - Get compliant! Learn the "120-move" rule for warming up. 24:45 - Why elite level climbers need to do some two-a-day workouts. 25:55 - Beginner guidelines. To hang or not to hang? 26:35 - How proper training (and rest) can make your tendons stronger, stiffer, and slightly thicker given long-term, prudent hangboard training. 27:10 - Which grip positions you should train? How grip position effects forces placed on the flexor tendons and pulleys. Important stuff! 30:00 - Biomechanics of the full crimp grip. 31:12 - Biomechanics of the open-hand grip. 32:18 - What about the "open-crimp" grip? 34:15 - Importance of targeting a specific grip position. 35:50 - Research findings on the forces places on the FDP and FDS flexor tendons with different grip positions. 40:50 - Forces placed on A2 and A4 pulleys...and how to train around a minor annular pulley injury. 42:32 - Finger extensor muscle imbalances...and how to train to combat them. 48:45 - Pinch grip training--Eric's "two birds with one stone" training recommendation. 51:08 - Why every serious climbing much do two brief antagonist exercise sessions per week. 51:55 - Reminder that specific hangboard training protocols are detailed in Podcast #10. 54:08 - Tips on exercise programming. 55:50 - Tips for advanced climbers. 57:00 - Elite climber advice: The importance of doing periods of high volume training for Central Governor recalibration--one of the keys to breaking new performance barriers! Learn more on this in my book, Training for Climbing. 59:30 - Keys to long-term gains over decades. Yes, you can do it with dedicated & smart training--if you stay uninjured! 1:00:35 - Teaser on the next few podcasts...which will break some new ground. Don't miss them! 1:01:40 - Closing comments about the transcending spirit of climbing...and Eric's good wishes to you for the holidays and New Year! If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Training on the Ultimate Board, available from NICROS.com

0:25 – Preview of this and upcoming podcasts. 5:55 - Overview of this summer's International Rock Climbing Researchers Association 4th Congress in Chamonix, France. 10:40 - Research highlight #1: 3-D motion analysis of speed climbing performance, and interpretation of hip mechanical energy in official speed climbing route. (Lionel Reveret - France). 14:45 - Research highlight #2: Effect of climbing hold depth on biomechanical arm action during pull-ups. (Laurent Vigouroux - France) 22:55 - Research highlight #3: PIP joint contact incongruency in different grip positions as a trigger for epiphyseal fatigue fracture in adolescent climbers. (Andreas Schweizer - Switzerland) 31:20 - Research highlights #4 & 5: Association between different Rate of Force Development-measurements and climbing performance (Vegard Vereide - Norway),  and the Rate of Force Development: a new biomechanical key factor in climbing (Guillaume Levernier - France). 40:45 - Research highlight #6: The effects of weighted dead-hang training program on grip strength and endurance in experienced climbers with different levels of strength (Eva Lopez-Rivera - Spain). 52:52 - Research highlight #7: Qualitative analysis of two of 2017's greatest ascents and a proposed conceptual model for maximum-difficulty sport climbing and energy system requirements (Eric Hörst - USA) 1:05:08 - The ultimate lesson from Hayes' and Ondra's ascents—climb quickly, accurately, and efficiently, and pause to rest only at effective rest positions. In short, the Hörst rule for lead climbing peak performance: Climb fast and rest well! 1:07:24 - My shout out to a few of the numerous coaches now bringing climbing science to their work as trainers! If you enjoy this podcast, PLEASE SHARE it with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For a comprehensive study of Training for Climbing, check out the 3rd edition of Hörst's best-selling book! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Eric Hörst presenting at the IRCRA conference in Chamonix, France, July 2018.

Dr. Ellen Vora is a board certified psychiatrist, acupuncturist, and yoga teacher, who takes a functional approach to mental health treatment. She believes in looking at her patients holistically, and addressing challenges at the source rather than with medication. Ellen specializes in depression, anxiety, insomnia, women’s mental health, adult ADHD, bipolar, autoimmunity, and digestive issues. After graduating from Yale University with an undergraduate degree in English, Dr. Vora continued on to Columbia University medical school, although she consistently felt reservations about the profession she was entering. On this not-so-caffeinated career conversation (Dr. Vora recently kicked her caffeine habit) she addresses our society’s struggles with mental health from a holistic psychiatry standpoint, and gives Java Junkies tools to reflect on their own physical and mental health, and what lifestyle changes you can make to feel like your best self. Tune in to this episode of T4C and find out how to better take care of yourself, and why your afternoon snack of Doritos might just be what’s making you depressed. The post 56: This is Your Brain on Doritos w/ Dr. Ellen Vora appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Peter Loge is an expert in the realm of politics in public policy, serving in senior positions for three members of the House of Representatives, the late Senator Kennedy, and under the Obama Administration. In his impressive career as a strategic and communications consultant, Peter has worked as a senior advisor to the commissioner of the Food and Drug Administration, a position which was created for him. Drawing from his experience, he penned the book Soccer Thinking For Management Success: Lessons for Organizations from the World’s Game. In this work Peter demonstrates to readers, through comparison with the sport of soccer, how working as a team towards a common goal can lead to a business’ success in the present day fast-paced working world. A graduate of Emerson College in Boston, Peter is an Associate Professor at The George Washington University school of Media and Public Affairs Students, sharing his wisdom on communications, politics, and management. On this episode of T4C, we bring all that and more to you! The post 52: Soccer Thinking For Management Success w/ Peter Loge appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Hold onto your coffee cups …the Time4Coffee summer interns are loose in this special episode of T4C showcasing the insights, lessons learned and behind the scenes experiences of the freshman class of T4C interns: Julia Pekala (Bethesda Chevy Chase High School, Class of 2019), Alexandra Radifera (University of Oregon, Class of 2021) and Michael Ellick (Elon University, Class of 2020).  The post 24: [K-Cup minisode] A Behind the Scenes Look @ Time4Coffee w/ T4C Summer Interns appeared first on Time4Coffee.

This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder! Podcast Rundown 2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more than 5 years ago. After a two-year review of the latest research and sports science, I discovered that some aspect of the old school sports science—and even some physiology textbooks—were outdated and even wrong on some important details. Therefore, what I’m trying to do with my book Training for Climbing and these podcasts is apply the latest sports science, research, and training technology to climbing. Only this way will we optimize training programs and advance the sport! 5:20 – What I’m presenting in this series of 5 podcasts is the cutting edge of training for climbing…that may open the door to 5.16a in the next 5 to 10 years...and help the mass of climbers achieve their climbing goals and beyond! 8:15 – Eric shares a brief anecdote from his week at the International Rock Climbing Researchers congress in Chamonix, France...about meeting the Japan National Climbing Team head coach Hiroshi Yasui. 10:58 – The focus of this podcast is the art of the science…via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make energy system training optimally effective. This is important and powerful summary material that will pull together the key concepts from the 4 previous podcasts…and empower you to get the most out of your training both in the short and long term. 13:08 – How advanced training is like playing 3-D chess. 14:20 – Key Idea #1: Though we talk about (and train) them separately, all 3 energy systems contribute toward power in almost every climbing move and training exercise. It's vitally important to understand how the three energy pathways influence, support, and even inhibit each other. 17:10 – Key Idea #2: Effective energy system training must target a specific pathway as much as possible. To optimally trigger training adaptations, the goal is to maximize the flux through a single energy pathway. You can’t train intuitively…or go to the gym and “just climb”—this approach is too imprecise for an advanced climber to make meaning gains. 21:30 – Key Idea #3: Working on your project is not effective energy system training. Listen and learn why… 24:55 – A quick side story about Alex Megos working on the "Bibliography" project at Céüse…quite possibly a 9c/5.15d route. 27:54 - Key Idea #4: Energy system training for short-term adaptations and long-term gains are two very different things. While the former may help you send your current project, it's a commitment to the latter that will help you reach your genetic potential. 31:54 – Learn the secrets to long-term gains—which energy system(s) will advance your climbing…and what novel training adaptations you are after. This is brand new material to the climbing world—listen closely! (I first introduced this cutting-edge sport science in the first energy system training podcast in March 2018.) 36:40 – A brief, but important tangent on long-term development and mastery. As exemplified by Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, you too can build-up strength, power, and endurance for 15 or 20 years (perhaps longer)….if you stay uninjured! 43:00 – Key Idea #5: Genetics do play a roll in determining your training gains and absolute climbing potential. Like it or not, genetics does play a role in training adaptations and how hard you may someday climb. That said, you can exert significant influence over your gene expression via the epigenetic effects of your day-to-day diet, training, and lifestyle. Energy System Training is one way to exert influence over your genes! 54:06 – Key Idea #6: A two-a-day workout schedule can be very beneficial for advanced/elite climbers, but the two sessions should be separated by 6 to 8 hours to optimize workout quality and minimize interference (of adaptation signaling). Intense strength/power workouts are best done in the afternoon or evening, so other forms of training—aerobic climbing, generalized aerobic activity, and similar—are best done early in the day (based on science). Of course, everyone is different (genetics, time available, other life issues)...and so your "best schedule" might require a different approach. #Nuance 1:00:30 – Bonus tip: Reduce or eliminate your antagonist training during your climbing performance season. Learn why this will help a well-trained, non-injured climber perform a bit better. 1:03:00 – Key Idea #7: You can learn and benefit a lot by keeping records of your workouts, subjective feelings, key performance indicators, and your climbing achievements. Digital and other online records, like 8a.nu and Vertical-Life.info, are a good place to start; but written records have great value, too. Learn why. 1:06:35 – Key Idea #8: Energy system programming is the ultimate "art of the science". Getting long term results requires a knowledgable coach, accurate testing, and progression program design that is artfully crafted around periods of performance climbing and/or competition. Personalized training is essential—nuance is key. 1:08:47 – Eric offers training program advice for beginners. 1:11:55 – Some programming tips for intermediate/accomplished climbers. 1:14:45 – Short- and long-term training program advice for advanced weekend warriors and professional/elite climbers. 1:22:27 – Summary comments about energy system training and the future of training for climbing. How high quality information and coaching is like a power tool that, through leverage, multiplies your current strength, talent, and climbing ability. Seek out the best information and coaches available—and become the best climber you can be! 1:24:00 - My thoughts on how becoming a better climber can make you a better human being...and empower you to positively impact other people (and perhaps change the world!) in small, but meaningful ways. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For more on energy system training (and a myriad other training tips and techniques) pick up a copy of the latest edition of the best-selling Training for Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Cameron Horst lowering after the send at Tetto di Sarre, Italy.

If you’ve never heard Vivek Wadhwa speak, or read his articles and books, and even if you have, this is a T4C episode you won’t soon forget!  Professor Wadhwa’s advice to parents who ask him what their kids should study in college to be guaranteed a job when they graduate?  Let them study what makes them happy. The post 05: Why Your College Major & Where You Go to School Don’t Matter w/ Vivek Wadhwa appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Pull up a demitasse of espresso 'cause NPR's Guy Raz -- the creator and host of 3 top-ranked Apple Podcast shows:  How I Built This, TED Radio Hour, and Wow in the World -- shares his wisdom with T4C java junkies about how to break into journalism and podcasting.  In this mini-podcast, java junkies learn the most useful skills Raz looks for in the people he hires.  Hint: it's two qualities and one of them is ....kindness.  He also shares the most important life experiences you will need to break into this industry and the best career advice he's gotten. The post 01:[Short] How NPR’s Guy Raz Built This: Espresso Shots appeared first on Time4Coffee.

NPR's Guy Raz is the man behind the microphone -- and the magic -- of 3 top-ranked Apple Podcast shows:  How I Built This, TED Radio Hour, and Wow in the World. In 2016, he became the first podcast creator to have 3 shows in the Apple Podcast chart's Top 20 shows -- at the same time.  However, as he tells T4C host Andrea Koppel, before he made it to the pinnacle of his profession, Raz had to deal with professional disappointments, and even rejection, and had self-doubts like all of us. The post 02: How NPRs Guy Raz Built This appeared first on Time4Coffee.

Read a book for free! www.audibletrial.com/umcoc 30-days free access to Audible and a free book. Because UMCOC loves you, and wants you to be smarter. ----------------------------------------- This week on our show! GP Goes to the Movies What does everyone think of Week 1 + Epic mode? Sell T4B & T4C T4B and T4C sells were disabled almost a year ago because of accidental sells. http://bit.ly/2MoJNS9 We got free Master keys this month Trade 3xT4C for a new one. 19.1 Android & iOS Bug threads I haven't seen Kabam have Bug threads up and running before. Includes submission guidelines http://bit.ly/2MplkMn Banning Protocol (Deacon’s Alliances fiasco) Roscoe Report! Champion Preview 19.1 https://bit.ly/mcoc191 UMCOC Arena Chart goo.gl/yN1D5D True Believers! Do you love the UMCOC Podcast? Would you like to help me make Bagel and Deacon sound better? Yes? Please help us pay rent! You can become a Patron at patreon.com/umcoc Patrons get a copy of each episode's shownotes, and access to other goodies as they come up. $1 a month for the UMCOC Podcast!

As a change-up to my typical long-format, single-topic drill down podcast, I present to you the first episode of "Ask Coach Hörst"! Listen in as I answer 10 listener questions covering a wide range of topics from in-season fingerboard training, training for big wall stamina, training to excel at climbing AND another sport, and much more. Each question & answer runs about 5 minutes. If you'd like to submit a question for the next, please leave it as a comment the pinned post on my Twitter @Train4Climbing -- include your first name, location, and years climbing. 1:06 - Question #1. A student climber (5.13b) with access to a small university gym (45 degree wall & campus board only) wants to know about doing weighted hangboard training on a portable hangboard...and the pros/cons of training two consecutive days? 6:29 - Question #2. SoCal climber asks how to do hangboard training for "gains" when there's year-round outdoor climbing...that is, no poor-weather off-season to do targeted training. 13:07 - Question #3. A climber with no access to a commercial climbing gym inquires how to train route endurance while only having a hangboard and campus board for home training? 19:20 - Question #4. How to best ramp up training for big wall stamina this summer season? 22:20 - Question #5. How to integrate a progressive overload hangboard training program with outdoor climbing for performance? 24:24 - Question #6. How much aerobic cross-training is too much...that is, what volume of aerobic training would it take to begin hindering climbing performance? 31:15 - Question #7. What to do during rest breaks between fingerboard or pull-up sets? Also, what about during rest periods between redpoint attempts? 37:47 - Question #8. How long does the "just go climbing approach" to improving climbing performance apply? At what point should a climber delve more deeply into intensive strength and power training? 42:00 - Question #9. How to best train for both rock climbing and mountain climbing? 45:42 - Question #10: Advice on how to advance from 6c to 7a and, hopefully, 7a+ (5.12a) while also playing (and training for) rugby? How to best train for both sports at a body weight of 80kg? 52:10 - Wrap up...How YOU can submit a question for the next episode of "Ask Coach Horst". Visit my Twitter @Train4Climbing and leave a comment to the pinned "Ask Coach Horst" podcast. 53:00 - Teaser on the next episode of the T4C podcast on...Energy System Training Part #2. Don't miss this episode on how to train more effectively! Music by Misty Murphy Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook!

Corrections Officer Jernerro Horton has a passion for being a positive role model in offenders lives. He's been able to exercise that passion by volunteering as a Thinking for a Change (T4C) facilitator at Thumb Correctional Facility. T4C is a cognitive-based program that aims to equip offenders with the proper tools to be successful out in their communities upon release. Officer Horton expresses his gratitude for the opportunities he has to help make his community safe through the department's offender success model. Also, in this episode Absconder Recovery Unit Lt. Levens sends in a shout out to thank ARU investigator Chad Johnson and Electronic Monitoring Center supervisor Diane Caswell for the teamwork to arrest a sex offender that absconded from parole.

This episode covers a lot of territory…beginning with a look at the very unique Hörst family winter training program. Next up, is a deep look into using autoregulation to adjust your daily training for optimal results. The podcast wraps up with a look at the benefits (or not?) of running as part of a training-for-climbing program. Podcast Rundown 0:15 Podcast introduction on the 3 main topics: Horst training, autoregulation, and running. 2:00 Eric’s announces winners of T4C raffle…the winners are Mike Ramos (USA) and Harry Crews (South Africa) 3:32 Details on how to get a free download of the eBook “10 Must-Do Exercises for Climbers”, and what you can learn from this free book. 6:18 Part 1 – How does the Horst family train in the winter? It’s a question I’m often asked…and so I’ll give you an indepth description of our home gym, our winter workouts, and how we prepare for the outdoor climbing Spring and Summer seasons. 11:00 Disclaimer….your training program should not be modeled after ours--but you certainly can gain lots of useful insight and ideas. 12:15 About the Hörst boys as multi-sport athletes, and how that effects our training for climbing. 18:15 Our winter Mesocycle details for December, January, and February. We employ a very polarized approach for December and January—the focus is maximum strength/power and aerobic development. Listen in for details… 25:12 Then in February we shift gears to a pre-season focus on strength/power endurance training. 30:30 Important considerations for teenagers—and the rest of us—on sleep and nutrition! 32:48 Part 2 - Autoregulation. What it is, and what are the benefits? Learn how to use it to optimize your training and get better results. 38:20 Details of our standard warm-up protocol…which also provides the basis for our autoregulation. 45:00 How you can employ autoregulation in the gym—what adjustments to make and when. 52:15 Part 3 – Running as training for climbing—Is it a good thing, a bad thing, or an “it depends” kind of thing? 54:30 Definition of VO2…and how important a high VO2max is for hard climbing. What does the research stay? 1:00:40 – Learn the important difference between climbing-specific aerobic training and generalized aerobic training. 1:02:00 – In terms of running…how often should you run? What speed and distance is best for a climber—sprints, tempo, race pace, or long slow distance runs? 1:08:00 Research on the benefits of a strong generalized aerobic system on climbing performance. If you climb roped routes or participate in bouldering comps, this is must-know stuff! Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy

If you work in the Government acquisition world, this podcast is for you. (not just for Contracting Officers!) Kevin and Paul dive into contract terminations. (FAR Part 49) Learn the difference between termination for convenience (T4C) and termination for default (T4D) and why the FAR considers terminations to be a last resort. __________ Kevin Jans and Paul Schauer created the Contracting Officer Podcast to help Government and Industry acquisition professionals understand more about how the other side thinks. Admittedly, the podcast’s name sounds very limiting. It is not just for contracting officers or even just for those in the contracting profession. Anyone with an interest in the Federal acquisition world can benefit from the insight and down-to-earth explanations of complicated topics provided by the hosts.