Podcasts about chris sharma

Elite competition is a young person's game, but when 44-year-old legend Chris Sharma witnessed climbing on the Olympic stage last summer, it lit a fire in him, or at least a small flame. Chris undeniably changed climbing bringing the sport into its modern era, establishing the 5.15 grade, winning World Cups and World Championships as a teen, but an Olympics appearance is the one thing missing. LA 2028 is definitely on his mind. First stop– New Jersey. Watch Climbing Gold on YouTube Thanks to our sponsors The North Face Check out Summit Series at thenorthface.com  AG1 AG1 is offering new subscribers a FREE $76 gift when you sign up. You'll get a Welcome Kit that includes a bottle of D3K2 AND 5 free travel packs in your first box. DrinkAG1.com/climbinggold David Buy 4 cartons and get the 5th one for free at davidprotein.com/climbinggold LMNT  Get your free LMNT Sample Pack with any purchase at www.drinklmnt.com/climbinggold. Try the new LMNT Sparkling — a bold, 16-ounce can of sparkling electrolyte water. Kodiak CakesFind Kodiak products at your local grocery store, they're the ones with the bear on the box or learn more at Kodiakcakes.com

Chris Sharma and Ron Kauk return to the podcast for a philosophical chat. We discussed early bouldering in Camp 4, the essence of climbing, the source of motivation, reinventing your climbing identity, Chris' latest deep water solo ‘Vision Quest' 9a, thoughts for future climbers, the key to good climbing technique, following your own path, and much more.Maui Nui Venison:mauinuivenison.com/NUGGETThe healthiest red meat on the planet. Wild harvested and responsibly sourced. Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order.AG1:drinkAG1.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs.Arc'teryx:Women's climbing clothingMen's climbing clothingCheck out the NEW Kragg Collection.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy and Mark and Julie CalhounShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-and-ronNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:01) – Fish sticks(00:04:45) – Chris & Ron introduce each other(00:15:08) – Threads & identity(00:23:38) – Pure climbing & societal rules(00:31:15) – Follow your heart(00:43:32) – Vision Quest(00:48:50) – The freedom of gym climbing(01:01:02) – The essence(01:14:35) – Supreme Jumbo Love & The Force(01:20:12) – The evolution of bouldering(01:23:25) – Thoughts for future climbers(01:30:39) – Flow & precision(01:32:40) – The inspiration of the line(01:39:33) – Self-awareness & freedom(01:46:31) – Le Blonde(01:48:19) – Motivation(01:54:04) – A good feeling(01:56:24) – Mother Earth(01:57:37) – A personal path(01:58:49) – Wrap up

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest climbers of all time. We talked about his rapid ascension as a teenager, the knee injury that almost ended his career, why La Dura Dura was a turning point, reinventing ourselves as climbers, the importance of finishing what you start, what he does in the off-season, mini objectives, embracing competition, finding contentment, having kids, and much more. Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free!PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Revival Climbing Coalition:revivalclimbing.comEP 225: Tony Bell & David Bress (my episode with the founders of Revival)Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET10” at checkout for 10% off your next order. We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/chris-sharmaNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:48) – Community & climbing alone(00:07:15) – A rapid ascension & crashing down(00:10:32) – Knee injury(00:13:29) – Reinventing our relationship(00:17:27) – La Dura Dura(00:20:07) – New challenges(00:27:32) – Chapters(00:29:59) – Finding the sweet spot(00:36:46) – Biographie & traveling in Asia(00:41:58) – Persistence & evolution(00:48:22) – Finishing what you start(00:52:32) – Should or should not(00:59:18) – Sleeping Lion & speed climbing(01:03:55) – First Round First Minute(01:11:17) – Paris Olympics(01:13:21) – Le Blonde & Perfecto Mundo(01:15:48) – Playfulness & mini objectives(01:19:43) – DWS during the off-season(01:27:21) – Santa Linya(01:32:30) – US Lead Nationals & competing again(01:40:17) – Paris 2028(01:46:32) – Embracing competition(01:50:00) – The next generation(01:54:12) – The media churn(01:57:22) – JB Tribout's advice(02:00:22) – “It's cool to do hard shit. ”(02:05:18) – Finding contentment & having kids(02:12:32) – Ferrari(02:16:16) – Magic(02:19:12) – More psyched than ever(02:21:24) – Climbing for other people(02:25:10) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

Today let's redefine "old age" when it comes to climbing. We love busting some myths! It's so inspiring to see "older" people climb and find JOY while climbing. "Old" is relative, of course. So let's jump in this conversation together and change the way we think of old age. Age is not a limit! Ready to join us? Sign up for our training membership: https://www.modusathletica.com/stronger-together Also, Intro To Training Masterclass is a free way to work with us: https://www.modusathletica.com/masterclass 00:01:06 The Nationals in SLC 00:02:45 Inspiration from Chris Sharma, age 43 00:04:00 Nationals predications 00:08:17 Something beautiful that comes with age 00:10:05 You can probably do a lot more than you think 00:14:08 Lifetime sport 00:15:58 Western culture and the value of wisdom 00:16:38 Common misconception on age & body functions 00:18:06 It's the decisions we make & lifestyle change 00:25:10 If you don't use it, you lose it 00:26:48 Just get started 00:28:12 Interesting question about training: short term or long term? 00:35:15 Keep training, it's not your age!

Felipe Camargo is a professional climber from Brazil and the first South American to climb 9b (5.15b). We talked about his humble beginnings in climbing and selling soda to fund his first competition, training for 5.15 on a 3-meter spray wall, how signing with Red Bull changed his life, why we climb, what he learned from Patxi Usobiaga, his new film Tropical Lines, climbing hotspots in South America, his current projects, and much more.Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Chalk Cartel:chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order.PhysiVantage:physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order.Mad Rock:madrock.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 10% off your next order.Crimpd:crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app for free! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/felipe-camargoNuggets:(00:00:00) – Intro(00:01:17) – Felipe's intro to climbing(00:03:43) – Training on a small spray wall(00:05:54) – Ultimate Beastmaster(00:08:53) – Becoming the first South American to climb 9b(00:12:35) – Selling soda to fund his first competition(00:14:42) – World Championships in Spain(00:16:17) – Early sponsorships & traveling(00:19:57) – Signing with Red Bull & TNF(00:25:45) – Representing South America(00:26:56) – Papichulo 9a+ (5.15a)(00:28:33) – Goal oriented(00:34:20) – “Why do we do this?”(00:40:30) – Gancho Perfecto 9a+ (5.15a)(00:41:46) – Full Journey & Perfecto Mundo(00:44:20) – Training on a spray wall(00:47:44) – Learning from Patxi Usobiaga(00:50:56) – Being smarter with training(00:54:29) – When to specialize(00:57:22) – Felipe's training as a kid(00:59:48) – Tropical Lines(01:08:28) – Climbing conditions in Brazil(01:10:26) – Crags in Brazil(01:14:32) – Hotspots in South America(01:17:36) – More about Tropical Lines(01:19:20) – Auto Retrato 9a+(01:21:05) – The Grand Illusion V16(01:25:29) – Full Journey 9b (5.15b)(01:27:40) – El Bon Combat 9b (5.15b)(01:28:23) – Endurance on the Moonboard(01:33:35) – Wrap up & EXTRA teaser

July 29, 2024 ~ The Hammer family, parents Lisa & Gary and older siblings Max & Maggie, are in Europe with the youngest Hammer, Zach, who is preparing to compete in speed climbing for Team USA in the Olympics! Guy talks with the family, as they follow the climbing team to Barcelona for training ahead of next week's competition in Paris. Photo: (L to R) Maggie Hammer, Zach Hammer, Chris Sharma, Lisa Hammer, Gary Hammer

The number of indoor climbing gyms in Catalonia has multiplied by four in just ten years, making climbing a lifestyle phenomenon and another way of connecting with people.  At the same time, the mountainous landscapes of Catalonia have become some of the most visited destinations for outdoor climbing.   In this episode, Oriol Escudé Macià joins Lea Beliaeva Bander to chat about the Catalan bouldering boom, and we also discuss whether it's a sport that is accessible to all.  We visit Sharma Climbing, the largest climbing gym in Spain, owned by American climber Chris Sharma, where climbers explain why they took up the sport.  We also talk to Quim Hernández, the climbing manager of the Catalan Mountain Sports Federation about the growing popularity of climbing and how it is being received.  The Catalan phrase of the week is “Fer una muntanya d'una gra de sorra” which means to blow something out of proportion, similar to the English expression “to make a mountain out of a molehill.”

Matty Hong takes us to Mallorca where he snagged the second ascent of Big Fish. A 9a deep water solo that culminates in a dyno at  ~20m / 60ft!Matty was out there filming for the latest Reel Rock climbing with the legend Chris Sharma. Since he is often the guy behind the camera we asked him to share some tips for any aspiring climbing film makers and he fully delievered!Last, but certainly not least, he takes us to Ceuse to tell us about the interesting things he learned from climbing the iconic Biographie -- the worlds first 5.15a.SHOW NOTES:Matty Hong WebsiteMatty Hong on InstagramMatty Hong on TikTokBig Fish (video of Sharma on the crux)Reel Rock 18 TrailerBiographie 15a SendKing LinesTrailerSharma on Los Humildes Pa CasaEthan Pringle on La Hostia by Boone SpeedJim Thornburg InstagramSupport the showSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Climbing has changed a lot since Chris Sharma came on the scene over two decades ago. Now in his early 40s, Sharma has born witness to an entire generation of climbers come up, including his co-guest on today’s GearJunkie Podcast, 23-year-old pro climber Drew Ruana. In a wide-ranging conversation guest-hosted by GearJunkie’s Seiji Ishii, the young buck and seasoned master discuss how the sport has grown over the last twenty years. Along the way, they touch on project poaching, drinking culture, balancing family with career, fitness, and much more. While addressing his notable longevity, Sharma emphasized the importance of consistency in his training as he’s aged. He also credited taking breaks and devoting that time to other things to avoid burnout. Among the first to represent the USA as an Olympic climber, Ruana offered a younger point of view. But regardless, both are among the elite of the sport and continue to push the state of climbing forward. The post Chris Sharma and Drew Ruana Speak on the State of Climbing appeared first on GearJunkie.

Coach Tom Randall of Lattice Training joins to discuss: What to do if the project didn't go down Winter training Testing Planning training around spring goals What every climber should focus more in on their training  How to optimize a 2-hour gym session  - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to:  Rungne: Try Magdust, performance chalk at a great price, and check out all of Magnus's other favorite gear. Enter to win a YEAR supply of Magdust and other rad prizes or discounts at Rungne.com - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 40+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron.  Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app.  - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger! Thanks so much for listening and supporting. 

 Jeremy Meigs and Joel Ruscher are West Coast bouldering OG's. They started climbing 3 decades ago and were part of the birth of modern HARD bouldering.  Tune in to hear about the early days of bouldering and how it set the tone for what's going on today. There's tons of can't miss stories about young Chris Sharma and what Hueco, Bishop, and Font were like in the 90's. We are so grateful to get to share their stories and not have them lost to history! SHOW NOTES: West Coast Pimp by Steve MontesantoStone Crusade by John ShermanRevelations by Jerry Moffat Support us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Merry Christmas! As a gift for listening and sharing the show, we've not only put together a massive list of climbing films from the 1990's that you can watch right now for free, but we also decided to chat with Mike Call - one of the key figures in 1990's hold shaping, innovation, and filmmaking.  We hear about the shaping of The Boss and the early days of Pusher, what it was like filming and editing back then, and MANY of the best stories about filming with Boone Speed, Chris Sharma and more superstars from that era, including the landmark first ascent that Mike accidentally recorded over. Learn more at our website. 90's Climbing films that are free to stream ---------------------------------- Thank you to our partner, Tension Climbing. Tension creates tools to help you elevate your climbing experience. Check out the goods here and use code STONE for 10% off anything but the full Tension Board set-ups, hardware, and gift cards. When you support Tension, you're supporting the team at Plug Tone creating this show.  Written in Stone is co-created with Power Company Climbing. Use code STONE at checkout for 20% off. Details at www.powercompanyclimbing.com/stone

Tito Nazar, the founder of Gravel de Fuego, discusses the growth of gravel cycling in Chile and the unique challenges and beauty of the Patagonia region. He shares his personal journey from mountaineering to ultra running to gravel cycling, and how he was inspired to create the Gravel de Fuego event. The event features a sprint loop of 252 km and a 1000k race, both showcasing the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. Tito emphasizes the importance of experiencing nature and the sense of adventure that comes with ultra cycling. The event takes place in April and participants can fly into Santiago before traveling to Punta Arenas. Gravel Del Fuego Website and Instagram Episode Sponsor: Dynamic Cyclist (15% off with code TheGravelRide) Support the Podcast Join The Ridership  About The Guest(s): Tito Nazar is a gravel cyclist and race organizer from Chile. He grew up in Patagonia and has a deep connection with the region. Tito is the co-founder of Gravel de Fuego, a gravel race that takes place in the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. Summary: Tito Nazar, a gravel cyclist and race organizer from Chile, joins the show to discuss the Gravel de Fuego race and the beauty of Patagonia. Tito shares his background in mountaineering and ultra running before discovering gravel cycling. He talks about the growth of the gravel community in Chile and the unique challenges of gravel riding in Patagonia. Tito then dives into the details of the Gravel de Fuego race, including the sprint loop and the 1000k event. He highlights the breathtaking scenery, the logistics of the race, and the opportunity for riders to connect with nature. Tito also discusses the importance of timing the race in April to avoid extreme winds and rains. The conversation concludes with Tito explaining the process of crossing the waterway and the unique experience of finishing the race. Key Takeaways: - Gravel cycling is growing in popularity in Chile, particularly in Santiago. - Gravel de Fuego offers riders the opportunity to experience the stunning landscapes of Patagonia. - The sprint loop of the race showcases the iconic Torres del Paine mountains. - The 1000k event takes riders through diverse landscapes, including flat pampas and mountain ranges. - The race provides support and accommodations for riders, ensuring their safety and comfort. Automated Transcription, please excuse the typos: [00:00:00] Craig Dalton: Hello, and welcome to the gravel ride podcast, where we go deep on the sport of gravel cycling through in-depth interviews with product designers, event organizers and athletes. Who are pioneering the sport I'm your host, Craig Dalton, a lifelong cyclist who discovered gravel cycling back in 2016 and made all the mistakes you don't need to make. I approach each episode as a beginner down, unlock all the knowledge you need to become a great gravel cyclist. [00:00:28] Craig Dalton (host): This week on the podcast that got the great pleasure of welcoming Tito Nazar founder of gravel Delph Wigo out of Chile. To discuss the event, the growth of gravel in Chile and Patagonia. And the beauty of the region of Patagonia, he's going to share his personal journey from mountaineering to ultra running to gravel cycling and how he was inspired to create gravel the flag out. As an homage to his home region. Of Patagonia. As someone who's had the great pleasure of visiting Patagonia on a hiking trip previously, I would double click on that and encourage you to run over to Instagram and follow the gravel dove Wagga site. To see just what we're talking about. As we have this conversation. Before we jump into this conversation. I need to thank this week sponsor. Dynamic cyclist. If you're not familiar with dynamic cyclist. It's a video base, stretching and strength program focused on cyclists. The team over there has created a vast library of stretching and strengthening routines. Focus specifically on those problem areas that us as cyclists constantly endure as someone who's always struggled with mobility and flexibility, I've really welcomed these training sessions. Because there are only 15 minutes long, which means you can fit them into almost any day of the week. They focus on the various body parts that we overuse at cyclist and even have specific stretching programs for those problem areas. For me, it's the low back. So each winter. I follow their six week low back training program. In addition to the general stretching and strengthening training advice. They provide. Go on over to dynamics, cyclist and check it out. You can use the coupon code. A gravel ride. To get 15% off any of their plans, they do have a free trial. So there's no reason. Not to head on over to dynamics, cyclist.com and give it a try. With that business behind us, let's jump right into my conversation with Tito. [00:02:35] Craig Dalton (host): Tito, welcome to the show. [00:02:38] Tito Nazar (guest): Hello. [00:02:39] Craig Dalton (host): I'm super excited to have this conversation. It's been a while in the making. [00:02:43] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you so much for your patience. Um, it required a lot of work on my side, but you've been very kind to me, so thank you for having me. [00:02:52] Craig Dalton (host): You had me at Patagonia. The moment you said that in your first email, I was like, I need to find out what Tito's all about. And the more I've learned over the years have left, left even more excited to have this conversation today. [00:03:08] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah, Patagonia, well, it's such a powerful word. Uh, probably you agree with this. Um, yeah, Patagonia is very far south, don't you think? Close to Antarctica, maybe? [00:03:19] Craig Dalton (host): Indeed, I think it's the farthest South I've ever been and just putting it out there to those listening. I've been on a trekking trip in Patagonia, which covers the and jump in, correct me if I'm wrong, but the sort of southern area of Argentina and Chile is kind of the Patagonia region. And I had the pleasure of seeing some of the most beautiful mountains in the world on this track. And also some of the longest bus rides I feel like I've ever taken across the region to get from one point to another. [00:03:48] Tito Nazar (guest): And windy, maybe, no? Yeah. [00:03:51] Craig Dalton (host): A hundred percent. I think the first day, the sort of the female guide, she was wearing a ski hat and it was, it was not a cold time of year. And she was just basically like, Hey, if you're going to be out in this ripping wind all day, it's just nice to have something covering your ears. [00:04:06] Tito Nazar (guest): Patagonia, it's crazy. Um, I'm a very, I want to believe I'm a big fan of history, but also, yeah, I have a deep connection with the past and I think Patagonia is powerful because of our, of the aesthetics, the mountains, of course, but the history that surrounds, uh, the mountains is something that is hard to grasp and maybe to find. Uh, but of course I was born and raised there. So. I want to believe that I have a deep connection with my land. Uh, and that's why I'm very excited about this event because, um, of course, um, I want to show the world a different perspective, even, even to myself. Like I know my region climbing, ice skating, uh, skiing, but, uh, but graveling is a new thing in Chile and even more in Patagonia. [00:04:57] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. We'll get into it in a minute because I know you described the sprint loop as being one of the most spectacular rides you've ever done. But before we get into the event itself, let's just talk a little bit about you and your background and how you came to the sport of gravel cycling. [00:05:14] Tito Nazar (guest): Mm, Mm, I began doing mountaineering. Uh, there is this guy, Ulishtek, have you heard of him? Um, may he rest in peace. Uh, okay. You know, the Banff, uh, festival was in, it was still taking, it takes place in Chile. So of course, if you were a rock climber following Chris, Chris Sharma, you know, Adam Ondra now these days, uh, and eventually Ulishtek show up in one of those videos, climbing the North face of the Eiger. So I was one of those fans and I've been. I was talking this with my girlfriend. I, I think I am very obsessed with going fast and light. I never liked trekking really, which I've been a trekking guide, but it was not my thing. I was always cutting grams and stuff, ounces, you would say. But what I'm trying to say is that, uh, I got into mountaineering, then I understood there was something called trail running and I became an auto runner, I guess around Leadville, 100. I did it. I got the big buck, big buckle. I don't know how many hours you have to do it. I don't remember the hours. Um, it was the only time I trained in my life and ultra. Then I knew it took me too many years. I had like a very conventional education, private schools and Catholicism. And I had to become an engineer. Nothing of that worked. And it took me many years to understand. I have like a deep passion for ultra stuff. We'll try whatever. So one person told me that if you had a bicycle, I could go super far over 200 Ks. That might be 160 miles. So maybe two months after I bought my first road bike, I hated it, but I just used it. And have you heard of this, uh, concept crack called Brevet? Brevet? This [00:07:07] Craig Dalton (host): Yes. Yeah. In fact, we just, I just had a friend on talking about Perry Russ Paris and explaining the Brevets and that whole culture. [00:07:15] Tito Nazar (guest): You see? Okay. So I did the 200, the 300, the 400, the 600 Ks. And I ended up not liking it. It was too easy because it's just road bikes. I'm not saying it's wrong, but it was lacking to me of a real adventure because, you know, it's everything too under control. And I don't know how gravel cycling showed up and I got myself another bike. And it was a gravel bike. And before it was something here in Chile, just before it became something, I was already graveling. And just exploring and, I've begun doing everything that you were supposed to do with a mountain bike. I was doing it with the gravel because it reminded me more of having like a steel frame when we were kids, probably. So that's how it went. And then the community began to grow and [00:08:05] Craig Dalton (host): And were you, were you living in, in Santiago at then at this point, I believe you grew up in Southern Chile, but you went to Santiago for college, right? [00:08:13] Tito Nazar (guest): that's right. Uh, sadly, yes, college. And then I, I went back to home and yeah, but I, but I was running a lot. So I've been running a lot, a lot. And cycling, it was basically the same thing. And graveling became an explosion just before COVID in Chile, just before, maybe a year before, uh, graveling culture exploded. So I took my bike to the South. Um, I am from Punta Arenas, very far in Patagonia. Very far South and I was just grappling, trying to understand what this was. And, uh, of course I had the, everybody's drama, uh, what tire with, uh, suspension or suspension bike packing, not by packing gravel racing. Um, how error should I be? Yeah, but, um, yeah, after, and after COVID, I came back to Santiago [00:09:06] Craig Dalton (host): Maybe to help people understand a little bit about what graveling is like in Chile. Where did you, where did you arrive with your bicycle setup? [00:09:16] Tito Nazar (guest): when, [00:09:17] Craig Dalton (host): When, when, what type of bike did you end up? Did you buy an aero bike? Did you buy a bike packing bike? What seems to be the best for the type of terrain you were enjoying? [00:09:27] Tito Nazar (guest): well, that's going to be a complicated discussion because, um, okay, I have to give a short perspective of how gravel behaves in this lovely country of mine. Uh, we don't have the, we talked about this, right, Craig, um, our gravel is not like this thing you get to see in unbound gravel or. Some of the races where you're like flowing and aero bars and everything is so nice and smooth. We have a more aggressive gravel. It's more rugged, uh, with more bigger rocks. It is very safe, but it's just not so fast rolling. This concept is different. So usually our gravel bikes in the, in this country, we have. Wide tires, at least 38 millimeters, 38C at least. Everybody's now going over 40s and suspension may be, it might be a topic, but you know, it makes it more expensive. Um, myself, I have an, uh, a racing, uh, frame because I'm obsessed with grams. I'm a weight weenie. I'm super weight weighting. My gravel bike must be 7. 3 kilos. That's like a pro tour bike, aero pro tour bike. It's the same weight as mine. So, but it's, but I have like a super amazing, can I say the brand or no? [00:10:39] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, sure. [00:10:40] Tito Nazar (guest): I have René Hersey, René Herse. I've tested all the tires in the world and yeah, those are like by far the best. Um, there are two, you say supple, I think, absorption. My God, they're magical. So you can use, well, that, that's just my personal experiment. But, um, going back to the concept, um, I use a gravel racing bike, uh, not aero. But to ultralight, but people prefer to have more chunky tires, um, maybe heavier, but they focus, of course, more on, on comfort because that is the priority in a country such as this. [00:11:15] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. When you, when you talk about sort of gravel beginning to take off kind of just before COVID and, and then the years afterwards, were you finding other gravel cyclists? Were they starting to crop up? Did you find a way to bring that community together? [00:11:32] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, in Patagonia itself, no, that is the honest, the honest truth. We were like three guys and it is growing. I will not lie, but it's, it's slow because in places such as Patagonia, where the weather, whether it's very unpredictable, mountain biking makes more and people were doing mountain biking on gravel. You know, so now it's a matter of, you know, the, the concept has to penetrate, um, over the, the community. Santiago is faster. Everything goes faster because, you know, Santiago is a capital of, I don't know anymore, 10 million people. So that means there's just too much going on. Events, of course, just everything takes place here and then it spreads, uh, all over the country. So I think something fascinating is not really connected to this podcast, but Chile is one of the most. Connected people to cell phones in the world, like whatever you do, if you show it on Instagram, people will know you can, maybe you will be on TV, nobody will see you, but on Instagram. So I guess we are more connected through, through social media. So I can tell you how much is growing maybe in Santiago and slower in the rest of the country, but it is growing, but the rates are different. The closer you are to the capital, of course, it's faster. [00:12:51] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah. And then at some point you got the bright idea to put on your first event and that was closer to Santiago, right? [00:12:59] Tito Nazar (guest): very close, like two hours and a half, and it, it was not done in Santiago because we don't really have real gravel in Santiago. So we thought, okay, where's the closest place for real gravel? And it's like, yeah, it's in a place called Navidad. The, we are separated in regions, and those region regions are separated in municipalities. I don't know if that the word. [00:13:20] Craig Dalton (host): Yep. Sure. [00:13:21] Tito Nazar (guest): the municipality of NIDA is where we take place because. We thought it was one of the best gravels we have found in the entire country, really. But it was not myself. It was, um, two friends of mine, um, that, uh, Juan and Luis, he was just here and we are partners and friends. Um, and we invented this crazy race called Gravel Coast. That was our first event almost four years ago. [00:13:48] Craig Dalton (host): And what, what's the Gravel Coast event like? [00:13:53] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, we call it, we invented it somehow inspired in unbound in what's happening in the North Amer in North America. We feel very connected, especially my friend Luon. Uh, Luis, uh, Luchon likes, he knows all the athletes of your country, what's happening there, what's happening with the bikes. He likes the technology and everything. So, and I also feel very connected with many events over there because of Lifetime company. You know, it's, you know, they, they, they have some understanding about marketing, so it hits all the way down here. So we, we try to make an, let's say an adaptation. Of what you are, what these people are building over there and maybe adapted to our reality because we don't have this once again, even though it's a great gravel quality, it's not like a super fast rolling concept. It is more, it is a, it is a real challenge to finish a gravel coast race. Don't get me wrong. Anything can do it. I mean, many people, but you have to, you have to be prepared. I mean, our 200 miles are just insane. You know, there's too much climbing. So that means you're going to be on the saddle a bunch of hours. You're going to be proud of finishing gravel coast. That's why we say [00:15:07] Craig Dalton (host): and is it, is it a 200 mile event? The Gravel Coast? [00:15:11] Tito Nazar (guest): we have last year, we had 70 Ks, a hundred, I forgot my members so weak, but 120 Ks, a two 40 Ks and a three 20 Ks, which is a, which is a 200 miles now for the final event that is taking next year, that is 2024. It's in October. That is our spring. Um, it's going to be. Um, 50 miles, a hundred miles and 200 miles. [00:15:37] Craig Dalton (host): Gotcha. Gotcha. Now let's talk about the event you're going to be kicking off in 2024. What inspired you? Yeah, the big one. What, what inspired you to take the mantle and create this event yourself? What inspired you of where you're placing it? I have so many questions about Gravel Del Fuego. [00:16:01] Tito Nazar (guest): Oh, I really love my country. Uh, especially Patagonia. Um, it's hard to explain, but okay. I'm, I'm, I'm super lucky person because my father taught me how to fish, hunt, and some scuba diving. And Tierra del Fuego Island, it is a place that everybody wishes to see. But there is no development. There is no, there's not many, unless you're like a person who likes fly fishing and can pay on a helicopter, that is the only way maybe you can access to the island. Now it's getting more popular, but 20 years ago, I mean, if you were not a gaucho, you know, these people that take care of their cattle over there, or if you were not like a fisherman or maybe crazy guy, you had no idea what, I mean, you, you knew what the island was, but. No way you will dare to dive into it. I think that thing is still happening, but I am so lucky. I know the island because of my father. He took me fly fishing all the time with a truck. Don't get me wrong, not on a helicopter. And we will just, you know, get into river rivers and he will bring his boat and we will just try to catch some salmons and trouts. And so I had that first approach. And I saw the island just like that, but then I ended up being working for a king penguin colony. I mean, not for the penguins themselves, but from the owner of the, of the park. And I began to understand that was tourism. This was like, this was the real future of the islands. And then I ended up working for some company of the government for a commercial. I can show it to you on YouTube. I look very pathetic. And believe it or not, I was the model. They call me and I was like, have you seen pictures of me? I'm not a model. They were like, no, but we need somebody adventurous, blah, blah, blah. So I saw once again, the entire island. Without this tourism vision, time passed and it took me like three years to launch this race. I was not daring. I was wondering if I had the experience, but after all the events we've done these days, I mean, accumulated until today, it gave us the guts to, okay, now we know we have the capacity. I have the understanding. I've been in races where people have been in trouble in Patagonia. So I saw what was wrong. So I was able to understand how I can provide some safety. to secure people to enjoy the experience and not to be, you know, traumatized. Um, so it's been a long process. I don't know if that response answers the question, but, um, it was maybe a lack, a matter of luck of having one vision and then to have a more modern vision of how tourism come dive into the island. And show it to the world. [00:18:48] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, I think it's a fairly common kind of expression from race organizers that they've just been somewhere where they want other people to see And a very small number of you out there in the world, take it upon yourself to map something, to organize something, to bring people together. So I'm always super excited. And I was bemused by the distance of your sprint event. Your sprint is 252 kilometers, which is only a sprint in relative to the grand daddy event, which is how many kilometers for the full full event. [00:19:27] Tito Nazar (guest): uh, actually I did the conversion. Um, the, the, the sprint is 150 miles. I know it's a sprint. It's an irony. It's an irony. And then that we have the big, uh, uh, route that is a thousand case that is, uh, roughly 654 miles, 600, 654 miles. [00:19:48] Craig Dalton (host): Okay. So let's, let's talk about them quickly independently of one another and let's start off with the sprint event of roughly 150 miles. Can you just sort of walk us through what the vision was? And I believe you were telling me earlier, this was the loop that really was magical in your mind. If you were going to do any one thing, do it for one 24 hour period. This is the loop you would want to share with the world. So let's talk about it. [00:20:17] Tito Nazar (guest): Well, I have to, I have to confess. Um, I have to confess that everything was born from Tierra del Fuego. I, one of the obsessions I like to do is I like to do things that people have not done ever because it's more adventurous when something is done and you're trying to break the record, you have one warranty, which is. You can make it because it is already done, but when something has never been done, there is more mystery. There's more uncertainty and I crossed the island from the north to the south in gravel racing non sleeping mode for the first time ever and back then I was already building the idea of making a race. But I wasn't sure and then the upper section of the entire race, I speak of the 600 miles race. I've done it many times driving because I was a guide and also I was hunting with my father in some sections too, uh, birds. Um, when I say high hunting, whatever I killed, I ate it. So please don't be upset people. Um, having said that, um, what was the question? Sorry. [00:21:20] Craig Dalton (host): Well, I wanted to talk through both of the distances and sort of the vision and starting with the sprint loop. Like, what is, what would the riders be experiencing? [00:21:30] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah. Okay. My apologies. Uh, the short loop was kind of logical because it is. It enters the famous park, national park, uh, called Torres del Paine. Torres del Paine are these granite towers, um, that are super insane. These spikes elevate thousands of meters up the sky and they're breathtaking. [00:21:52] Craig Dalton (host): quick, quick aside, I literally have a picture of the mountains you're describing in my kitchen. [00:21:57] Tito Nazar (guest): You see, it proves something, [00:21:58] Craig Dalton (host): it's amazing. [00:22:00] Tito Nazar (guest): right? Um, so, um, sadly, because of a matter of logistics, we cannot make it shorter. Uh, we will have to bring people to, I don't know, closer to the mountains, but that would mean to move the people and their bikes, and that is just impossible. Chile is a very expensive country, so, sorry, that's the best we can do. And what you're going to see is that, I mean, from the mile 60, you get to see the towers right away. Uh, the videos are, are on the Instagram of the, uh, gravel del fuego. That is the name of the race. And yeah, I mean, as you are pedaling, correct. You're just looking at the towers from one angle. Then you get to see more of the three towers because there are three towers. Uh, and then one of the towers hides. And then you just get to see two, but then you see this cold mountain called Almirante Nieto, which is full of glaciers. And yet you get to see the entire faces of the, of these, of these guys. I mean, I'm sorry, of the Almirante Nieto. You leave away Almirante Nieto, and then you see the horns, Los Cuernos, the horns of the Paine, which are these granite, once again, towers that on top, they have, uh, volcanic material. Which is the black dots on top of them. And that is amazing. Like I just, today I just put some stories on the Instagram, how beautiful they are. And then you final finish, finish with the final peak, the highest one, which is called Paine Grande, Big Paine. Then it has a huge plateau of just glaciers. Um, I'm sorry, I get excited, but I don't know if that So that is the point of the sprint. I know it's not a sprint, of course, but we made it. Available for all people because they have 20 hours to finish the race. That is a lot of hours. You can contemplate, you can stop, you can eat. And, but it's just, I don't know. Uh, I wish people, I guess I have to invite them to get into the website and see the pictures, like we went on April. So people would see how the landscape is going to look for them. It's just amazing. I mean, contemplating mounting as you pedal, it cannot be any better. Don't you think [00:24:01] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, no, I agree. And your enthusiasm is absolutely warranted. And again, I encourage everybody to follow gravel. If I go on Instagram and go to the website, you'll see the pictures, you'll see what we're talking about, and you'll see that even the most monotone individual can not help, but be effusive about how beautiful that region is. When you think about that loop and you think about the writers, they have 20 hours, you know, inevitably there'll be some person, some people who are racing it. What do you think one can get around the loop in with 20 hours being the maximum? What do you think sort of the minimum winning race time might be? [00:24:39] Tito Nazar (guest): that's a big one? Um, well, I already have my cartoon one possible winner. His name is, I'm going to say him because he saw the race. When I invented the race, he was the first guy who saw the circuit, the final circuit. Some other friends helped me, uh, I have to name him because he's a very. Great inspiration for ultra community. His name is Canuto Razoris. We've done some crazy stuff together. Actually, we did the Everest thing, road cycling together. And next week, Andres Tagle, the, uh, maybe the best graveler we have in the country. He saw the circuit. I mean, next, next week he did the Everest thing. Since then we became friends and. He saw the Gravel de Fuego concept and he was like, Tito, I'm so in, this is the best, the best race ever. Let's do it. He, he will not do the sprint. I think he will go for the thousand, but if somebody of that caliber will go, he can make the race in nothing. I don't know. I would have to do the math, but it would be 23Ks. I can, let me do it real quick. But people that are very fast and it's legal to draft, so they can do it very quick. Um, they can do it under seven hours. If not less. Andres is detonated. We say in Spanish, Andres is detonated. It's, it's, he's reaching levels that are, he's going probably, I'm guessing he's going to unbound and he's going for something big. Um, let's pray for [00:26:03] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, interesting. We'll have to keep our eyes open for him. And then the, the um, The 1000k event, totally different, you know, ball game. You're, you're talking about six and a half days [00:26:16] Tito Nazar (guest): Yes. [00:26:17] Craig Dalton (host): To complete it on the, on the outside, talk a little bit about that experience. You mentioned earlier that it goes down into, um, Tierra del Fuego. So you'll, you'll do the same loop as the sprint, but also head way down to the very, very Southern tip, right? [00:26:33] Tito Nazar (guest): Yes. That's right. Allow me to say just a little thing because when people hear Patagonia, they hear, they think wind, wind, and then they think rain, rain. And this is very important, uh, Craig, uh, we did the racing on April with, that is autumn is fall. It's not summer. And the question is why don't you do it in summer? I mean, it's warmer. The answer is yes, but yes, it's warmer, but the wind is way stronger in our spring and our summer way more. So that's why people think of wind because they come in the high season when, when they think it's better. But the thing is in fall, the amount of wind is way less, it's way less, like, I don't know, way slower. I'm saying 80 percent of the max wind speed you get to have in summer, uh, you have only 20 percent that speed. In April, and the same happens with the rains when it rains. It rains a lot in summer, but if it does in April, it could be more like a shower. So eventually you just can keep pedaling, but it's, it is colder. Of course it is colder, but it's not extreme cold. So it's what, and the, and finally is the landscape because Patagonia is great. But sadly, what people don't know, and I guess I don't know if it's sad or not, but what I'm trying to share is the most beautiful contrasts of colors you get to have them in, in April because it's fall. So the, the trees are orange. So you have the glaciers that are already, and then you have the high mountains already with snow because it's freezing on top of them. But you get to have this contrast of these trees with green and the farther you go South is orange. And that's why. And finally, we did the circuit in a way where if there is wind. It's going to be on your tail. That's why it [00:28:19] Craig Dalton (host): I was going to, [00:28:20] Tito Nazar (guest): to south. [00:28:21] Craig Dalton (host): I was going to ask you that because the coast of California is the same way. It can have a ripping wind, but you know, nine days out of 10, it's always going to be from the North to the South. [00:28:31] Tito Nazar (guest): Exactly the same here. I mean, I'm speaking from a point of view of mathematics, something, some, this is Patagonia. Everything is unpredictable. Sometimes, of course we can have great wind, but if it does, once again, it should be on your tail, not on your head, not in your head, which is awful. So. Yeah, that is very, very, very important to be mentioned because there is an explanation for choosing not summer, right? [00:28:56] Craig Dalton (host): exactly. So this, this, um, 1000 K course also has a pretty significant amount of climbing. So you're obviously picking some of that up in the, in the first sprint loop, but then as you go South, are you going over large mountain peaks along the way? [00:29:15] Tito Nazar (guest): No, it's very fascinating because when you go to Torres del Paine area, as we talked, you get to see the mountains, but then you go south and it's fascinating because. Eventually, when you go south, then you're going to go east following the extreme border of Argentina. Technically, many places you're going to look to your left, and that is going to be Argentina itself. Like you, you can literally cross illegally to Argentina. Um, not that I have done it, uh, but, uh, it's fascinating. I promise you. that area is so flat. It's so flat. It's, I have pictures posted already. I've never seen something like that, not on gravel, like infinite flatness of a straight road for miles, for miles, I promise you, and then you go South once again, and then you are as soon as long as you're going more and more South, you're somehow approaching a mountain range, which is not famous is called Darwin mountain range that is just before the ocean that touches the Antarctica, the farther you go South, You get to climb, but, um, but it's very graveling, rolling, very decent pace, most of the circuit. And when I say this, I'm saying of 70 percent of the circuit, the rest of it, especially at the end, very, very end, you get to have mountains for real. And they're beautiful, but it's the final challenge. [00:30:38] Craig Dalton (host): That's right. How do you imagine cyclists approaching the thousand K in terms of where will they be sleeping? What does that end up looking like? [00:30:48] Tito Nazar (guest): That's a good question. Um, what, what we did is in the website, we created something called. I don't know English, but it's like, uh, it's like, um, we call it the guide of the race and we put every single campaign, hostel, hotel where you can sleep. So you somehow you can make a schedule of where you can sleep, where you're going to go. So, or maybe as you are writing, you can arrange a bed for you to be waiting, to be waiting for you. Um. I think I'm pretty sure it's something like not many races of this distance to have, and we're very proud of it because you can somehow be more safe because in other races, it's like from point A from point B follow the circuit. Good luck. See you soon. And you have, you have to fix it for yourself to give more safety for the people we did so, so I can tell you, and actually we have 12 checkpoints. Many races of this distance, they have only, I don't know, two or three, by a miracle, five checkpoints. We have twelve. And most of them, they're hotels, hostels, so if you're tempted to, for a hot shower, you'll have it. If you don't have money, or you don't want to spend money, many of them, they have, like, a place for you to put a, set a tent. I have friends that they're coming like this, that crazy, um, more sacrificed style. Um, but also if you're graveling and you want to crash it, um, you can program very well many places to stay, even though there's not many, much traffic, not many cars moving along the circuit, just ourselves. Um, when I say ourselves, the, the organizers where we have eight vehicles for safety. Um, there are many places where you can be sleeping and you're not going to be so, so. Abandoned in the nothingness of the Patagonia, [00:32:38] Craig Dalton (host): And will, will the same, uh, would you make the same comment about the ability to resupply with food and water? [00:32:45] Tito Nazar (guest): um, for the two 50 case, they're very safe in the, actually there's the, um, the big loop also. I mean, the big circuits, because the force, the first four checkpoints, they will have water isotonic and some fruits. So that will make it for most of it. I mean, especially for the sprint, but the, for the rest of the guys, uh, I have arranged a few spots where. Uh, where they can buy food, uh, and many places, as I said, they have, they have hostels, hotels and nice people that they want to be involved with the community and this event. I have seen them a few, a few times making sure that it will be open and many of them are just waiting these people like, and so, yeah, they will find food. But of course, the thousand K's have to be a little more careful. You know, the type of nutrition they require is different. The amount of calories, uh, but it's all mostly settled. Yeah, [00:33:42] Craig Dalton (host): Gotcha. And it looks like at some point you have to cross a waterway. Is there a ferry that the riders will be taking? [00:33:48] Tito Nazar (guest): that's right. Um, yeah, I'm very excited about it because that requires logistics from the point of view of the, the, the athletes, right? Um, I've done the math and, um, and most of the winners. Uh, they shall not have to wait for the ferry to, I mean, here's the thing. The ferry works from, I don't remember, I think from eight in the morning until 23 PM. Uh, 23 hours that, so that's a huge gap, but that doesn't guarantee everybody will cross. So first of all, just before the ferry, 2016 miles before the ferry, maybe there is a town that I already have talked many, uh, have had many meetings with them. They're going to supply us, uh, like a gymnasium where they have beds and everything for emergency. If people want to stay, if people want to pay for more comfort, that's no problem. Um, But I would say like the 40 maybe more, maybe 55 percent 40 percent of the strongest of the racers will make it without waiting for the ferry, because this ferry is crossing from the continent to the island. Um, every 30 minutes, maybe an hour at the most it's a 20 minute minutes cross. And it's beautiful because you're crossing what is called the Magellanic Strait. Before the Panama channel, the only way you can make it to the other side, right. I think it was discovered in [00:35:06] Craig Dalton (host): That was the farthest I ever made it. I made it to the side of the Straits of Magellan on the northern side to look at the strait, but I didn't make it across. [00:35:15] Tito Nazar (guest): You see? Yeah. So I'm not lying. You see? Um, so yeah, I think there is like a deep symbolism in it because it's also brings adventure. It brings more, more of a challenge, but also. Maybe once again, maybe you want to take it slow. I have, we have people from Spain and they want to take it slow. They want to take the six days and a half and they want to sleep just before the ferry, because they just want to see everything on daylight. So everything has been done like thinking of that, like gravel races, but they don't want to wait for the ferry. Would they just want to get to the other side as fast as possible? I think we are going to manage that slower. People can make it to the other side without waiting. Yes. Some others. We'll be forced to be waiting. Of course. I mean, there is a schedule, but, um, I think it's, I want to believe it's well, very well [00:36:03] Craig Dalton (host): it was the perfect, you mentioned the, those final mountains. I think they were, they were the Magellan mountains. Are they on Tierra del Fuego? [00:36:13] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah, no, but they are the Darwin mountain range. We are, as you are getting close by. Yeah, that's all right. Um, so many names. It's like, there's no way I know all the mountains in your country. And no worries. Um, the Darwin mountain range, as I said, yes. You're getting so close to them that that's why you have this, um, this, we call them peaks. Um, and it's funny because in between, before every climb, there is a lagoon on, not a lagoon, um, how do you say, a lake on the other side. And they're very famous for fly fishing. Actually, my father. Walked to the first lake. It took him three days to get there because there was no road before you had to go, no GPS, like it's crazy. I have pictures of my father climbing those mountains that now you can do go on a bicycle in a super safe way. Um, but yeah, it's beautiful. I mean, the last 300 case. I mean, everything has its beauty, right? Because, um, Torres del Paine National Park, it's mind blowing. There are no words. You have to see it until you see it. And then you see, and then you understand. And it's going to be in your heart forever. Then you deal with the Pampa, which is the steep, you say in English, with this total flatness that drives you crazy. But it's like super graveling, fast rolling. Uh, there is a video where I'm pedaling, I don't know, 20 something miles per hour. On aero mode, like flying over the course, and then you have some sections of the Pampa and the final 200 miles are just too impressive. It's too beautiful because then you get to dive yourself into the, into the forest. And there are some sections where it's just, you're in caves covering this beautiful, um, I don't know. It's hard to say it in English. Um. Because I do believe this, I do feel this race is, I don't know for me, but here's the point, Greg, uh, if you do a race for one point for point a point B, it can be an experience, right? But I want to believe that ultra cycling, any ultra thing we do. There is an opportunity to know yourself and one of the best ways to know yourself is to be dive, like super dived into the nature, like in immersed, you know what I'm saying? There is a moment in life where you feel you're aware that you are you, but also you are somehow aware this is going to be too romantic, but you can be aware of the leaves. You can be aware of the dirt. You can be aware of the, of the water and somehow you really feel part of everything. I want to believe this race can give you that, especially in the beginning and at the bottom. [00:38:54] Craig Dalton (host): I, I love it, Tito. That was perfect. And I totally agree with you. There's something that that's sort of transcendent when you're on the bike for multiple days in a row, whether. It's as simple as bicycle touring or as adventurous as an event like this, you just become closer to nature than you ever could on a, on a day by day long bike ride. [00:39:15] Tito Nazar (guest): I meant to that, [00:39:16] Craig Dalton (host): Yes. So Tito, at the very end of this race, you're quite far away from where you started. What happens at the end? [00:39:26] Tito Nazar (guest): uh, well, I have to extract people. Here's the thing. Um, remember we spoke about the wind and everything we could make the race somehow to make you for you to return by yourself, pedaling from the South to the North. But as we talked before, the wind comes from the North from the Northwest. So that means probably the wind is going to be in your head. And even though it's, um, slower, less powerful compared to the summer, uh, we are taking everybody by ourselves. You get to the finish line. There is a sign that says end of the road. It's very perfect. And we're going to set up tents. And every time we gather four people, we get them on a, on a vehicle, on a pickup truck, and we have to drive them. We have to extract them from the islands to the main city, which is called Portvenir, where my mother was born. Um, and yeah, and, uh, that's how then they can take another ferry. This is another ferry because there are two access, uh, through the island. A small ferry that is in the race, but then there is a longer one, which is like an hour and a half on this ferry to where you get to the capital of the region that is Punta Arenas. Um, so, so, but it's a long road. I mean, we have to drive them like, I don't know, from this, from the finish to the city, Porvenir. Oof, almost four hours. And before that, we fall, we drop them to the, in the city. We give them as a gift, the, uh, the, I don't know the gift, I guess. I'm sorry. We give them the access to see the penguin. Remember I told you we work in, I work in the King penguin. Protected area. Okay. Um, we already talked to the owners, um, to the people over there and the money of the entrance for the pink king penguin is goes directly into the protection of these king penguins and, and participants can see them directly as a gift [00:41:15] Craig Dalton (host): That's, that's so much fun. Tell it, tell us again when, when is the event happening? What's the event date? [00:41:23] Tito Nazar (guest): April 13th, all the way to the 20th. A bunch of days. [00:41:29] Craig Dalton (host): And when the listeners of this podcast want to book their tickets and come to the event, how do you, how do you get there? Do you fly into Santiago and then fly south? [00:41:39] Tito Nazar (guest): Yeah. If, for example, in your case, like anybody, everybody's case, um, situation, they have to fly to Santiago. Well said, uh, to the capital of the country, that's Santiago of Chile. And from Santiago of Chile, there are too many flights, uh, all the way. My recommendation would be to fly to Punta Arenas. Punta Arenas, which means, it means Sandy Point. Um, Punta Arenas is P U Q, um, if you want to look for the airport and there are buses all the time going to Puerto Natales, where the race really starts. Um, it's for a small fee must be like, well, with the bike might be. 10, 000 Chilean pesos, which is, I don't know, 14. Um, but yeah, my recommendation would be to fly to Santiago, Santiago, Punta Arenas, Punta Arenas, a bus, which is three hours bus from Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales. It's crazy. [00:42:30] Craig Dalton (host): like that's part of, it's part of the Patagonian experience spending some time on a bus. [00:42:35] Tito Nazar (guest): If you want to see the beautiness and loneliness of everything. Yeah, that's how it is. [00:42:40] Craig Dalton (host): Yeah, amazing, amazing. Tito, thank you so much for coming on and telling us about Gravel del Fuego. I hope the event is a big success. I know from experience the region is absolutely stunning, and it's amazing that you've taken the time to put this route together, and I can't wait for gravel cyclists all around the world to come and experience this region. [00:43:02] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you for your time, Craig. Um, I want to put this, uh, recorded you're welcome. Uh, if you want to come to the race, just, um, let's see if you are crazy. And when I have this crazy adventure with me and experience the Patagonia one more time on two wheels, um, it will be an honor. I do mean it. I mean, I listened to your podcast. I mean, it will be an honor. So yeah, I want you [00:43:28] Craig Dalton (host): would, I would love that and appreciate it, and I will a hundred percent get to Patagonia again in my lifetime. It's just, it's too special a place not to revisit in, in, in my lifetime. Once again, [00:43:40] Tito Nazar (guest): Thank you. Thank you for your [00:43:41] Craig Dalton (host): again, Tito. That's going to do it for this week's edition of the gravel ride podcast. And in fact, at December 19th, that's going to be our last episode for the year and we'll pick it up again. In 2024. Huge. Thanks to all you listeners for supporting me this year. I wouldn't do it without your feedback and encouragement big, thanks to all the sponsors, including this week sponsor. Dynamic cyclists. If you, as an individual are interested in supporting the show, one of the best things you can do for me is leave me a strong rating or review on your favorite podcast platform that really helps with discoverability or feel free to visit. Buy me a coffee.com/the gravel ride. If you're able to support us financially. Until next time. And until next year, here's to finding some dirt under your wheels.  

Will Anglin returns and is joined by coach and trainer Matt Jones. This is one of the most valuable episodes I've ever recorded. It's a GOLD MINE for anyone who wants to progress their climbing. Will and Matt provide clear and in-depth guidance for beginner, intermediate, and advanced climbers in this three-hour masterclass. If you feel stuck at a plateau or simply want to progress to the next level, don't skip this episode!Become a Patron - 7 Day Free Trial!patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Rhino Skin Solutions!rhinoskinsolutions.comUse code “NUGGET” at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Green Chef!greenchef.com/nugget250Use code "nugget250" at checkout for $250 off!The Nugget is sponsored by BetterHelp!betterhelp.com/NUGGETUse this link for 10% off your first month!Check out Wonderful Pistachios!WonderfulPistachios.com to learn more!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Michael Roy, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Zach Emery, Alex Pluta, and Matt WalterShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/will-and-mattNuggets:0:03:55 – Introducing to Matt Jones0:06:43 – The goal of this episode, and who it's for0:09:20 – How we are defining beginner, intermediate, and advanced0:12:37 – Reminder about timestamps0:13:31 – Overview of core themes (skills and strength feedback loop, the four stages of competence, selecting training tools)0:20:24 – My first plateau in climbing, and helping people identify and address what they're missing--BEGINNER STARTS HERE--0:23:45 – Beginner | Overview0:23:45 – Gaining initial awareness, and meat suit competence0:25:53 – Beginner | Strong Not Good0:27:35 – The Hammer0:28:51 – Not everything is a nail0:30:00 – The hammeriest hammer Matt and Will have ever seen, and taking away the hammer0:34:06 – Beginner | Good Not Strong0:34:06 – The goal for the beginner climber overall is to diversify the toolset0:34:47 – The Stringbean (aka The Crowbar)0:36:18 – Overutilizing sneaky tricks, and adding constraints/rules to your climbing0:41:48 – Interventions for beginners0:46:35 – Identifying the low-hanging fruit0:47:40 – Beginner | Summary0:51:11 – Using climbing as a training intervention0:53:41 – Checking your ego0:55:27 – Building strength and skill at the same time through climbing --INTERMEDIATE STARTS HERE--0:59:06 – Intermediate | Overview0:59:06 – Exiting the beginner stage, and learning to quantify your progress beyond grades1:01:42 – “Oh no, now what?!”1:03:22 – The logarithmic aspect of climbing the grade scale, and the room for growth as a climber1:05:24 – My experience of collecting more tools in sport climbing in the last 6 years1:07:14 – Finding what trying hard means, and the Nationals training camp story1:10:09 – Trying hard vs. trying well1:12:10 – Identifying what you need to address in your climbing1:13:30 – Understanding exactly what you're doing, and why it is working or not working1:17:54 – Intermediate | Strong Not Good1:18:51 – Chunking1:20:25 – Getting beyond the left-right-left, and increasing the resolution of your beta1:22:47 – The guess and check model, and turning new dials1:25:21 – The sloth monkey drill, and finding the line1:27:50 – Hip in vs. square drill1:29:43 – Building a process for problem-solving1:30:16 – Guidance for off-the-wall training for the intermediate climber1:33:38 – Keeping off-the-wall training in perspective, and becoming fluent in training1:39:20 – A tactical pitfall for intermediate climbers1:43:00 – Why you shouldn't punt, the nuance of resting, and energy economy1:48:20 – Separating practice, training, and performance1:50:11 – Intermediate | Good Not Strong1:50:11 – Getting the reps in, and eating your vegetables first1:56:34 – Strength training to support your movement, and learning to reverse engineer moves2:03:19 – Asking why, being more intentional, and why Chris Sharma led the intermediate climbers astray2:04:33 – More on reverse engineering, amplifying your strength through mobility, and being in the correct position2:07:12 – Learning how to guide yourself, and choosing how to train2:10:31 – The optimal training plan doesn't exist, and it's ok to have fun--ADVANCED STARTS HERE--2:16:25 – Advanced | Overview2:18:41 – Specific goals, and going from dial-up to fiber optic2:21:46 – Advanced | Strong Not Good & Good Not Strong2:23:57 – Occupying the position2:29:14 – Mobility and sensation2:33:33 – Proprioception, feeling mode, and micro beta2:37:57 – The Golfer study2:41:00 – The opportunity of the intermediate climber, and Will's beef with strength metrics2:43:23 – Affordances, and becoming a better athlete2:46:31 – Off-the-wall training for an advanced climber, and Usain Bolt2:51:23 – Misusing tools from the pros2:56:50 – Wrap up, and EXTRA teaser

Jakob Schubert is a four-time World Champion, an Olympic bronze medalist, and he has more IFSC gold medals than another male competitor. He's also sent some of the hardest routes in the world, including, most recently, a first ascent of Project B.I.G. in Flatanger, which he rated 9c, making it only the third route ever to be given this grade. Our interview with Jakob takes us behind the scenes on his livestream of sending B.I.G.; his ticklist of some of the hardest routes in the world, especially Chris Sharma lines; who he thinks might be a contender in the next Olympics; and his love of American football. But first, we talk about Jared Leto's toprope ascent of the Empire State Building, and try to figure out why everyone so mad. Today's final bit comes from OG local legend Joel Brady and his band d'Artagnan and the Banjoman. Show Notes Follow Jakob Schubert on Instagram. Subscribe to Jakob Schubert's YouTube Channel. Climbing.com's news report on Project B.I.G. Jared Leto Climbs Empire State Building on BBC Photo of Jared Leto climbing by Renan Ozturk on the NatGeo feed Follow Joel Brady on Instagram “I'm Dying” by d'Artagnan and the Banjoman Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

How much would you pay to smoke a joint with Chris Sharma? What about have Daniel Woods be your sommelier for the night?Tim and Josh start off by talking about Sean Bailey's viral post about his struggles making it as a Pro Climber.For the ‘Topic of the Day', Tim and Josh share tips and tricks on how to shift into Outdoor climbing mode after a long hot summer spent in the gym.SHOW NOTES:Sean Bailey's Instagram PostDave Graham's (The Wizard) new V16Music Mentioned:Slipknot Raining Again, by Betoko Sky, by Playboi CartiSupport us on Patreon: HEREVisit our podcast page: HERESign-up with one of our coaches: HEREFollow us on Instagram: HERE

Tom and Ryan explore how to give ourselves the best shot at sending on the day, and then Tom answers Patron questions. Topics include: Setting expectations Adjusting for uncontrollables Warmup tactics Calculating proper rest periods Post Activation Potentiation Routine Learnings from training Alex Honnold Training fingers with a force gauge  - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors: Friction Labs: Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com.  Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount. - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 20+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron.  Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app.  - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!

Tom and Ryan explore how training should be adjusted in the 4-6 weeks before send-season, what exercises to cut as the season arrives, an often-overlooked red point tactic, and behind-the-scenes stories from when Adam Ondra was in the cellar. Plus, Patron questions!  - This episode is coming to you at zero cost thanks to these wonderful sponsors: Friction Labs: Level up your grip game with the best in the biz, free of fillers, rosins, and drying agents so your skin stays healthier. Use code STRUGGLE20 for 20% off at frictionlabs.com.    KAYA Climb: 50+ bouldering guidebooks right on your phone, whether you have signal or not! Plus GPS-pinned boulders and over 300k community-uploaded beta videos. Download a free version, and get 20% the PRO version HERE - Listen to this episode ad-free, and gain instant access to 20+ hours of exclusive content from Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps and more by becoming a Patron.  Learn more at Patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow or if you listen on apple, you can subscribe right here in your pod app.  - Follow along on Instagram @thestruggleclimbingshow and @tompaulrandall - This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation and is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry. - The struggle makes us stronger!

Elite climber Michaela Kiersch shares her struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game   -   Michaela Kiersch has been crushing for decades. She's the first woman to climb both 5.15a and V14 (9a+ / 8B+). The 5.15 was La Rambla, and as Michaela shares today, she doesn't feel like she has yet hit her limit in sport grades. Other notable sport sends for Michaela include the 14d/9a ascent of the Chris Sharma line Dreamcatcher in Squamish, a first female ascent of another classic Sharma route, Necessary Evil, and pretty much everything at the Red River Gorge, including the 14c FFA of The Golden Ticket. On the blocks she's got a few V14 (8B+) sends to her name, including Tigris Sit and New Base Line, both in Magic Wood. And what's perhaps more impressive than her ticklist is the fact that she's done pretty much all of it while being a full-time student and youth coach. If you want to get psyched on what we're all capable of accomplishing with busy lives and limited time to train… you're in the right place.    -   CHAPTERS: Struggle: 0:10:10 Training: 0:12:01 Nutrition: 0:26:52 Tactics: 0:36:33 Mental Game: 0:46:00 Purpose: 0:57:14 Takeaways: 1:03:22   Follow along on Instagram @michaelakiersch and @thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   The Struggle is on YouTube! Watch interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   BIG THANKS TO THE AMAZING SPONSORS OF THE STRUGGLE:   Crimpd: The absolute best tool for self-coached climbers to stay on track with training. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.    SCARPA: Whether you're a climber, trail runner, skier, or hiker, SCARPA offers an array of adventure footwear for the adventure seeker in you. with a commitment to sustainability. Shop the whole collection at SCARPA.com. SCARPA, No Place Too Far.   PhysiVantage: the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Use code STRUGGLE15 at checkout for 15% off your full-priced nutrition order.    Frictitious Climbing: Check out their revolutionary doorway mount for hangboards (no drilling!) along with their amazing boards for training your fingers at home or on the road. Score 20% off a board when you purchase a doorway mount:    -   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.   -   Want to gain access to 20+ hours of exclusive content featuring Chris Sharma, Alex Honnold, Nina Williams, Ravioli Biceps, Michaela Kiersch, Emil Abrahamsson and more? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   -   Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.   -   This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   -   The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!  

Does kneebarring hard boulders make you stronger? What if it IS a kneebar boulder? Is it good for training? We're conflicted. And how does Chris Sharma feel about it? This is a bonus Board Meeting episode from our new series, CONFLICTED. If you want to hear more episodes like this one, become a Patron or Apple subscriber today! Head over to www.patreon.com/powercompanypodcast or subscribe to Power Company + in your Apple Podcasts app!

At a young age, Chris Sharma was considered a climbing prodigy and won multiple competitions. He established some of the most challenging routes around the world, and pushed the sport forward technically and culturally. Recently, Chris and his longtime friend, fellow climber and actor, Jason Momoa, came up with the idea to produce a competitive reality show based on rock climbing. Their creative brainchild has become the binge-worthy TV show, The Climb— available on Max, previously known as HBO Max.Today, Chris talks about what it was like to make the series, and we hear from Cat Runner about his experience on the show and his climbing community, the Queer Climber's Network. WARNING: this episode contains spoilers for The Climb. Connect with Chris Sharma: Website Instagram Connect with Cat Runner: Instagram Queer Climbing Network Watch The ClimbEpisode sponsor: Check out REI's trade-in programAt REI we remain committed to ensuring that the outdoors, the co-op and society at large are accessible and welcoming to all people—including transgender, non-binary and gender non-conforming people.

Elite climber Chris Sharma shares his struggles and breakthroughs in Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game.    -   Chris needs absolutely zero introduction but it's worth hitting a few of the highlights because it's so absolutely mind boggling when you're reminded what he has achieved in this sport. At just 14 years old he won the adult US bouldering nationals. At 15 he freed the hardest route in North America at the time, 14c Necessary Evil. At just 20 years old Chris sent the world's first consensus 5.15a, Ceuse's Biographie / AKA Realization. He was also the first to climb 15b with Jumbo Love, and the second to climb 15c, just after Adam Ondra, as the two of them worked together on La Dura Dura. Chris also took deep water soloing to groundbreaking new levels when he sent the king line of Es Pontas, 15a, in Mallorca. He later put down a 15b deep water solo, Alasha, which is the hardest of the discipline. Chris has been dominating for so long, that it might be easy to simply refer to his groundbreaking contributions in the past tense… but that would be a mistake. Chris, just a couple months ago, sent his HARDEST route EVER, Sleeping Lion in Siurana, of which he gave the grade of 5.15c. Chris climbs with such flow, and carries himself with an almost mythical yogi demeanor, it'd be understandable to just assume there hasn't been a whole lot of struggle for him throughout his three decades at the top of the sport. But as you'll hear today, there's been plenty of struggle, both physically and mentally. Today Chris opens up with stories that I don't believe he's ever shared before.   -   Follow along on Instagram @chris_sharma and @thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   The Struggle is on YouTube, y'all! I'm so psyched. Watch the best moments of my interviews with the sport's best climbers come to life with amazing footage and actionable takeaways that'll help you to level up your Training, Nutrition, Tactics, and Mental Game. Check it all out at YouTube.com/@thestruggleclimbingshow.    -   Crimpd is the official fitness app sponsor of The Struggle. Visit Crimpd.com to download the app for FREE and take your training to the next level.    PhysiVantage is the official climbing-nutrition sponsor of The Struggle. Visit www.physivantage.com/discount/STRUGGLE15 to receive 15% off your full priced nutrition order.   -   The Struggle is carbon-neutral in partnership with The Honnold Foundation, whose mission is to promote solar energy for a more equitable world.   -   Want to be a podcast hero and gain access to extended and ad-free episodes, Pro Clinics with the sport's best, and rad swag? Support the show and the climbers who make it by becoming a Patron at www.patreon.com/thestruggleclimbingshow   -   Still reading? You deserve a free sticker: Please rate and review the show -- it really helps us to reach a wider audience! Snap a pic of your review, post to IG, and tag @thestruggleclimbingshow so that we can find you, and we'll send you a sticker just because you're rad.   -   This show is produced and hosted by Ryan Devlin. The Struggle is a proud member of the Plug Tone Audio Collective, a diverse group of the best, most impactful podcasts in the outdoor industry.   -   The struggle makes us stronger. Let's climb hard and do good things in the world!  

Buster has been climbing since childhood. He competed for his country as a junior competitor where he made European Championship finals, World Cup semi finals and numerous domestic comp victories. Buster's main focus now is rock climbing. He's the second brit to climb 9a+/36 with his ascent of First Ley in Margalef. Buster has also climbed countless routes in the 8c+-9a 34-35 range including the historic test pieces Hubble and Action Directe.In this chat, we dig into Buster's preparation for Action Directe, the worlds first 9a/35. His pocket training, finger injury recovery and just a bit of froth about the route overall. We also talk about his coaching business, his approach to coaching and how it all works. When we spoke with Buster, he was preparing for a trip to Spain to try a crazy 9b/37 called First Round First Minute, put up by Chris Sharma in 2011.Buster started Kaizen Climbing, his coaching business, to share his knowledge and psyche for training with as many people as he could. If you're interested in connecting with Kaizen, head to their website and give them a follow on instagram. There really is some awesome information in there.Video of Buster on Action DirecteVideo of Buster on HubbleBuster's instagramBaffle Days' favourite training books can be found hereFor 15% off Awesome Woodys products use BAFFLEDAYS at checkout. Help you and help the show :)

Alex Honnold is on the podcast! Who? The guy that free handed Yellowstone? Close enough.  Seriously though, this was such a great interview. We talked about his two most epic solos that nobody heard about, near misses, lessons from other climbing legends like Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft, pooping while free soloing stories, how the film Free Solo exceeded his hopes and dreams, the commitment to excellence, and much more!The Nugget is on YouTube!youtube.com/@thenuggetclimbingCheck out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, Zach Emery, and Brandt MickolasBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/alex-honnoldNuggets:0:08:25 – Interviews, speech coaches, and TED Talks0:11:29 – Finding new terrain for this interview0:12:09 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Zion0:15:20 – Soloing ‘Moonlight Buttress'… again0:16:12 – Why do these big solo linkups?0:17:00 – Alex's epic solo linkup in Red Rock0:18:58 – Foot pain on big walls and linkups, and vitamin I0:21:45 – Onsight free soloing ‘Shune's Buttress' and ‘Resolution Arete'0:24:38 – The hardest thing Alex has downclimbed0:25:33 – Why do some solos get so much attention while others fly under the radar?0:26:51 – Free soloing ‘Sendero Luminoso' in Mexico, and pitching films0:29:21 – What are the limits of free soloing?0:32:35 – It's getting harder to have quantum leaps0:34:20 – Feeling content with his Yosemite and soloing accomplishments, and comparing himself to the top sport climbers0:36:26 – Chris Sharma doing the FA of ‘Necessary Evil' 5.14c (8c+) in his first few years of climbing, and the role of talent in high-end climbing0:39:44 – Alex's sport climbing resume, what it would take for him to climb 5.15a (9a+), and the tension in his climbing0:42:37 – Dad strength, and having to focus with limited time0:43:50 – The climbing gyms in Vegas, and dreams of a home wall0:49:34 – Near misses while soloing0:55:34 – Soloing ‘Fiesta De Los Biceps' in Riglos Spain0:57:46 – Competing with Ethan Pringle as a kid, soloing ‘Shune's Butress' in the snow, and the tree story1:03:16 – Soloing ‘Monkey Finger', Big Horn tracks, and spirit animals1:04:22 – Climbing slowly, and the physiological limits on ‘The Nose' speed record1:08:06 – What it took to break ‘The Nose' speed record, and Alex's thoughts on breaking it again1:10:47 – The biggest lessons Alex has learned from Tommy Caldwell, Jonathan Siegrist, and Peter Croft1:14:26 – Drawing inspiration from other climbers, and soloing with Shawn Raboutou1:18:15 – Following the climbing news1:19:01 – Who Alex is most impressed by in climbing, and interviewing the Mellow crew (Daniel Woods, Shawn Raboutou, Jimmy Webb, and Giuliano Cameroni)1:20:35 – The new season of Climbing Gold, and unearthing the great stories of climbing1:22:13 – Who Alex has been most thrilled to interview1:23:28 – The time commitment of Climbing Gold, corporate speaking, and interviewing Stone Masters1:26:24 – Will Climbing Gold ever put out uncut interviews?1:28:37 – Pooping while free soloing stories1:34:56 – Shit-putting, and where he stopped to poop on his solo of El Cap1:36:29 – Filming Free Solo, how the movie far exceeded his hopes and dreams, the warrior spirit, and soloing as modern blood sport1:38:54 – The commitment to excellence, and his running list of goal routes1:41:05 – Plans for the PNW, hard routes on Liberty Bell, and having more commitments and time constraints these days1:43:57 – “More intention never hurt.”1:44:47 – “The guy that free-handed Yellowstone?”

Charlie Schreiber is a world-class climbing coach who has helped day 1 athletes become National Champions, 5.14d sport climbers, and V15 boulderers. We talked about the value of asking “why”, giving kids hard work and then reward, finding fresh lemons to squeeze, puzzle books and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker, our shared goal to climb V13, how to have a good poop in the morning (every time), and much more!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs!Check out Rocky Talkie!RockyTalkie.com/NuggetUse this link to get 10% off your first order of backcountry radios!Check out Rumpl!rumpl.com/nuggetUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 10% off your first order! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, Mark and Julie Calhoun, Yinan Liu, Renzollama, and Zach EmeryBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/charlie-schreiberNuggets:0:03:19 – My painting of Monkey Face at Smith Rock, and hominess0:04:34 – Charlie's apartment, and making and collecting art0:08:08 – What Charlie thought I looked like from listening to the podcast0:10:48 – How Charlie got into coaching, routesetters as choreographers, and building a successful climbing team from scratch0:16:49 – Austin Hoyt and Adam Shahar, Charlie's own competition background, and being obsessed with coaching and giving back to the kids0:18:37 – Where Charlie got his coaching ideas, and the emphasis on humor, games, and play0:22:37 – “The only reason anyone's going to give effort to something is if they believe in it.”0:24:38 – Hard work, and then reward (e.g. capture the flag)0:26:38 – Motivating adult clients, and working with one of his clients to get better at slab0:30:15 – The school system, and understanding why you are doing things0:32:26 – Slab climbing fundamentals0:35:38 – Spending time on fundamental skills, the learning zone, and perfect repeats0:40:26 – Adding structure to the warmup, and adherence as #10:43:39 – Customizing training for each individual, and finding all of the lemons to squeeze0:47:31 – How routesetting helped Charlie's climbing, and asking “why”0:50:53 – How asking “why” applies to outdoor climbs0:53:53 – Making up your own climbs in the gym, puzzle books, and getting inside the mind of the puzzle maker1:03:15 – The forced move drill1:05:35 – Charlie's goal to climb V13, and the path to get there1:12:10 – My Follow-Up with Emil Abrahamsson, my experience with fueling my training better, and momentum1:14:37 – More about Charlie's approach to climbing V13, and finger training with large hands1:17:13 – My goal for Rocklands, how Charlie approaches a trip, and the value of getting on really hard climbs1:23:34 What Charlie is working on improving to climb V13, and my plans to project a V12 and V13 in Rocky Mountain this Fall1:29:23 – “Never, ever, ever give up.” - Winston Churchill1:33:58 – Charlie's honeymoon1:35:36 – Using your spouse/partner as an accountability tool1:39:44 – Valuing climbing for the experiences rather than self-worth1:44:11 – How to have a good poop in the morning, every time1:49:11 – My paleo autoimmune diet experiment, and having full meals at the crag1:51:40 – My bicep tendon injury1:52:45 – Charlie's experiment with an alkaline diet1:55:39 – How Charlie blew up on Instagram2:03:05 – Being awarded the “Dyno King” by Chris Sharma, and drawing inspiration from Tyson Schoene2:05:37 – Setting the record straight with Austin Hoyt2:09:58 – Plugs and wrap up

The Protect America's Rock Climbing Act (H.R. 1380) is a bipartisan collaboration before Congress that aims to establish rock climbing as a legitimate activity across all federal lands, and direct relevant federal departments to include language in their management policy that addresses rock climbing and the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors. What does this bill say and what does its implications mean for rock climbing in the future? We bring in Chris Winter, Access Fund executive director, to fill us in on his ongoing efforts to lobby on behalf of the climbing community. But first AB fills in Chris on some of the latest headlines in the climbing world, from April Fools faceplants to stealth edits on Chris Sharma's ascent of Sleeping Lion. Last, we have some Buddy Spray, presented by Yeti and open only to those who support our podcast on Patreon. Ben Chipman sprays downs his friends and for this welcome bit of selflessness we're giving him a Yeti Yonder. Show Notes Protect America's Rock Climbing Act press release Read the bill Give money to the Access Fund April Fools: 8a and Climbing E-Grader Sharma Sleeping Lion news Bishop is moist

Colin is rolling solo today as he reacts and recaps the first four episodes of HBO's Chris Sharma and Jason Mamoa fronted rock climbing reality show, THE CLIMB. He breaks down what he likes about the show, the issues holding the show back and offers his predictions for episodes 5-8. Full spoilers abound so if you haven't watched THE CLIMB boot up HBO Max and check it out! What are your thoughts on THE CLIMB or any other outdoor themed TV shows? Send your comments and suggestions to myrockfight@gmail.com. Host: Colin True THE ROCK FIGHT is a production of Rock Fight, LLC. www.rockfightllc.com

This week, Jay and Lee are winging it! Learn all about the Peregrine Falcon closure at Main Cliff in Rumney, and Chris Sharma's first ascent of the 15 c, Sleeping Lion. Then, the guys answer your latest batch of listener questions. Connect with us at @firstascentpod on Instagram! Jay and Lee can be found at @jayknower and @xxleeweexx Disclaimer: The information expressed in this episode is for entertainment purposes only, and is not intended as, nor should it be interpreted as, informational or instructional.Check out our sister podcast, Brand New Information!

This month marks the 50th episode of the Climbing Advocate podcast! Chris Sharma, our guest for this special episode, needs little introduction as one of the most prolific and influential climbers of our time. His contribution to the climbing community extends from the crag to the boulder field to the gym with his new indoor climbing ventures. After nearly 30 years of climbing, Chris's psych is as high as it's ever been and his continued commitment to the climbing community is truly special. Sharma has lived and climbed in Spain for 15 years and had a great perspective to share on the differences between Spain and the US in terms of land management, climber presence, and overall advocacy. Sharma is particularly passionate about fixed anchor replacement—as a route developer himself, he's dedicated to making sure no one gets hurt on one of his routes and to educating other climbers on best practices for developing new routes and updated fixed hardware on existing routes. Tune in to hear more from Chris as him and Peter celebrate 50 episodes of the Climbing Advocate Podcast! 5:10- Chris' time in Boulder 12:07- Leaving a legacy 15:21- Influence of The Climb 20:05- Chris' early days of climbing 26:23- Climbing ambassadorship 29:34- Noteables between the U.S. and Spain 41:08- Land management in Spain 51:22- Stewardship and access in Spain 55:20- What Chris is most passionate about 59:17- Other athletes in the advocacy realm 1:01:29- “...For the next generation”

On Episode 257 of the Enormocast, I am joined in-person by climber, gym-owner, and newly minted television personality, Chris Sharma. Chris is one of the most well-known climbers in the world, and his legacy of ground-breaking sport climbing remains unmatched. Chris was of the earliest crop of child-phenoms to hit the competition scene. Along with … Continue reading "Enormocast 257: Chris Sharma – The Thunder and the Sunshine"

Jedna z největších osobností lezeckého sportu vůbec, dlouho byl brán jako absolutní jednička. Zvlášť poté co jako první na světě přelezl 9a+ - cestu  Realization/Biography, dlouhou dobu měl titul nejsilnějšího lezce světa. Setkali jsme se na Mezinárodním festivalu horolezeckých filmů v Teplicích nad Metují a zdaleka jsme si nepovídali jenom o lezení, ale mnohem víc mne zajímalo mentální nastavení tohoto fenomenálního sportovce. Jaké to asi bylo, když opouštěl pozici jedničky a když předával svoji pozici Adamu Ondrovi? Najednou jsme se bavili o chlapské schopnosti zvládat svoje ego, o umění nacházet radost a rovnováhu v životě, i když člověk najednou stárne... a to se týká úplně všech, ne jenom horolezců…   Díky, že jste poslouchali až do konce, díky za každý lajk, každé sdílení i odběr. Obzvlášť zdravím všechny podporovatele na herohero.co/petrhorky, kteří mají video i audio bez reklam, a kde si také můžete poslechnout anglický originál rozhovoru. Support the show

Chris Sharma is one of the greatest rock climbers of all time, and he's taking on some of the biggest challenges in life: becoming a parent and starting his own business. Chris tries a practice shown to help us craft our own path and purpose in life. Episode summary: Chris Sharma spent his youth traveling the globe and becoming one of the greatest rock climbers of all time. His passion for climbing has filled his life with purpose, but now in middle age, he wants to also focus on other sources of meaning in life that are just as important to him. Chris joins us after trying a practice in life crafting — where you get clear on your values, imagine what your ideal life would look like, and make a plan to get closer to that vision. Later in the show, we hear from Michael Steger, a psychologist and director of the Center for Meaning and Purpose at Colorado State University, about the surprising places in our lives we can find meaning, and the different roads we can take towards living a more meaningful life. Try the Life Crafting Practice: Identify your deepest values and passions — what's most important to you. Reflect on your ideal future: Write a paragraph envisioning how you'd like your social life or your career path to turn out if you had no constraints. Write down how you'll attain those goals. Prioritize them, and write “if, then” plans for how you'll overcome obstacles you're likely to encounter. Make a public commitment. Tell your community about your goals. Learn more about this practice at Greater Good In Action: https://ggia.berkeley.edu/practice/life_crafting Today's guests: Chris Sharma is an elite rock climber known for traveling the world to find the most beautiful and challenging places to rock climb. His new show The Climb premieres on HBO on January 12. Check out the trailer here: https://tinyurl.com/suz35w8y Follow Chris on Instagram: https://www.instagram.com/chris_sharma/ Check out his website: http://www.chrissharma.com/ Michael Steger is a professor of psychology at Colorado State University, where he is the director of the Center for Meaning and Purpose. Learn more about Steger's work: http://www.michaelfsteger.com/ Follow Steger on Twitter: https://tinyurl.com/yc79d6mb Resources from The Greater Good Science Center: Michael Steger: Why We Search for Meaning: https://tinyurl.com/2s469242 Here's How to Find Meaning in Your Midlife Crisis: https://tinyurl.com/4kpcnr9c What Our Photos Say About Us (Podcast): https://tinyurl.com/y56wvj42 Purpose in Life Quiz: https://tinyurl.com/yz4ztenp Living with a Purpose Changes Everything: https://tinyurl.com/d3ea7afa More On Meaning and Purpose: The Atlantic - The Meaning of Life Is Surprisingly Simple: https://tinyurl.com/2yfucadj Pew - Where Americans Find Meaning in Life: https://tinyurl.com/nek5j6tk Scientific American - To Feel Meaningful Is To Feel Immortal: https://tinyurl.com/yuhe99m9 NPR - What's Your Purpose? https://tinyurl.com/465aknec Harvard Business Review: What Is the Purpose of Your Purpose? https://tinyurl.com/43pjrc6j Tell us about how you find meaning in your life. Email us at happinesspod@berkeley.edu or use the hashtag #happinesspod. Help us share The Science of Happiness! Leave us a 5-star review on Apple Podcasts or share this link with someone who might like the show: https://tinyurl.com/2p9h5aap

As a teenager in the 1990s, Katie Brown was one of climbing's first "comp kids"--a young natural who, along with her peers, redefined the image of a strong and successful climber. After climbing for less than two years, Brown won her first junior national title. The next year she became the Junior World Champion at age 14 in Laval, France. In 1996 she won both the Rock Master--a prestigious international contest in Arco, Italy--and the esteemed X-Games. From 1996 on, Brown won every US Adult National that she entered, as well as a World Cup Title in France in 1999.Yet even as she reigned on the podium, Brown felt her life begin to unravel. A quiet child, she struggled with a home life that was very different behind closed doors than it seemed on television. A fundamentalist version of Christianity was at the center of the household, and Brown fought to live according to rules that were strict, ever-changing, and irrational. Isolated and feeling hopeless, Brown latched onto food as something she could control. She quit competitive climbing and bounced in and out of the industry, eventually disappearing in her late twenties.Now, more than two decades later, Brown is ready to share her story. Unraveled answers the question thousands of fans worldwide have wondered: "What ever happened to Katie Brown?"Join Travis and Katie for a very personal conversation recorded in Salida, Colorado, where they both live, coach, and raise their children.  Topics include: climbing (sport, traditional, competition), #vanlife, running, parenting, dogs, eating disorders, mental health, Lynn Hill, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, Chris Sharma, small-town living, and more.In This Episode:Katie Brown InstagramDr. Gaudiani's NPR interview Dr. Guadiani's website National Suicide Prevention Lifeline (24/7): 1-800-273-8255National Eating Disorders Association: 1-800-931-2237Boulder Campervans OFFER: 20% OFF the entire InsideTracker storeDISCOUNT CODE: TRAVISMACYTravis Macy Instagram | WebsiteInjinji Discount SiteThe Feed Instagram | Website- - - - - - - - - - -If you like this podcast, please consider our book, A Mile at A Time: A Father and Son's Inspiring Alzheimer's Journey of Love, Adventure, and Hope*30% off with discount code MACESubscribe: Apple Podcast | SpotifyCheck us out: Instagram | Twitter | Website | YouTubewww.AMileAtATimeBook.com

Todd Perkins is one of those local legends who you've probably never heard of. That is unless you've climbed on some of his routes around St George, Utah. We talked about growing up in the Mormon church, the mind-opening effects of cannabis, climbing his first 5.14 in the 90s and maintaining that level for 25 years, near-death experiences, the intelligence of the cosmos, aliens, and much more.Support the Access Fund!accessfund.org/donateCheck out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Athletic Greens!athleticgreens.com/NUGGETUse this link to get a free year's supply of vitamin D + 5 travel packs! We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/todd-perkinsNuggets:0:05:22 – Todd's pancake beta0:08:29 – Growing up in the Mormon church0:10:40 – Cannabis0:17:50 – Solar-powered weed smoking0:19:41 – “Get down from there!” and how Todd got introduced to climbing0:23:08 – Getting into route development in the 90s, and learning from Jorge Visser and Randy Leavitt0:28:34 – Developing routes at the Cathedral,0:31:26 – Climbing Planet Earth at the VRG, and progressing from 12a to 14a (7a+ to 8b+) in two years0:33:18 – Chris Sharma's psych for climbing as a 15-year-old kid0:35:07 – Longevity, gratitude, and being present0:39:08 – Setbacks, trying Golden for a Moment 14b (8c), and using a portable fan 20 years ago0:45:51 – Coming back from hip surgery and other setbacks0:48:28 – More about being present0:56:00 – What motivates Todd in his climbing these days0:57:52 – Having an out-of-body experience on Planet Earth, and other most meaningful ascents0:59:24 – My (Steven's) two hardest routes and how different those experiences were, and Todd's thoughts on mental tenacity1:05:24 – Adventure in sport climbing and route development, and Todd's near-death experience1:11:01 – Spirituality, the intelligence of the cosmos, and the goods and bads of religion1:16:15 – Steven shares some thoughts on the damaging parts of growing up in a religion1:19:37 – What Todd learned from studying Buddhism1:21:00 – Aliens1:33:14 – Nuclear testing in the 50s and 60s1:36:48 – Why Todd never left St George1:39:07 – Plans to try Flight of the Conchords 14c (8c+) this winter1:42:27 – Trusting your intuition, getting lots of sleep, and not pushing too hard1:47:07 – Wrap up, and we should all spend more time thinking about something other than climbing

Tommy Caldwell is the most accomplished big wall free climber alive. He is best known for having free climbed The Dawn Wall, the most difficult big wall free route in the world. We talked about his achilles injury, doing the FA of Flex Luthor, training for V12 boulder problems on The Dawn Wall, undone lines on El Cap, exploring the limits of human endurance, being vulnerable through writing a book, parenting, and much more.Listen to more top episodes!thenuggetclimbing.com/top-listsCheck out Petzl!petzl.comOr shop for Petzl quickdraws at your local climbing shop!Check out Chalk Cartel!chalkcartel.comUse code "NUGGET" at checkout for 20% off your next order!Check out PhysiVantage!physivantage.com (link includes 15% off coupon)Use code "NUGGET15" at checkout for 15% off your next order!Check out Crimpd!crimpd.comOr download the Crimpd app! (Available for iOS and Android)Check out Arc'teryx!arcteryx.comArc'teryx Presents: Free as Can Be We are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Leo Franchi, Michael Roy, David Lahaie, Robert Freehill, Jeremiah Johnson, Scott Donahue, Eli Conlee, Skyler Maxwell, Craig Lee, and Mark and Julie Calhoun Become a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/tommy-caldwellNuggets:0:07:08 – What is your Dawn Wall?0:07:59 – Tommy's injury and his canceled trip to Germany0:09:53 – Tommy's Instagram post about his injury, why he shared it, and creating accountability0:15:21 – Trying Magic Line and what Tommy's climbing looks like these days (pre-injury)0:17:35 – Why El Cap is so significant to Tommy, and his time spent at the Fortress of Solitude in CO0:20:17 – Bringing his adventure mindset to bolting and climbing Kryptonite and Flex Luthor0:23:05 – Matty Hong's repeat of Flex Luthor, and Tommy's thoughts on the grade0:25:20 – The differences between Chris Sharma and Tommy, and trying Biographie (first 5.15a/9a+) with Chris0:28:48 – Similarities between El Cap and competition bouldering0:30:04 – Why Tommy is drawn to “blue collar” climbing, and finding the niche that barely anyone wants to do0:31:56 – Patron Question from Christoph: Why is/was Tommy so far ahead of everyone else when it comes to big wall free climbing?0:34:00 – Patron Question from Atlin: What's the next big objective that hasn't been done in Yosemite?0:35:16 – Leo Houlding's vision for El Cap, and freeing the Passage to Freedom with Alex Honnold0:38:46 – More free routes on El Cap, family time in Yosemite, and their yearly trip to Fontainbleau0:41:13 – What made the difference the season he sent the Dawn Wall, and training for the V12 boulder problems on the crux pitches0:46:42 – Will the Dawn Wall be climbed in a day?0:47:55 – What did it feel like to see Adam Ondra send the Dawn Wall so quickly?0:58:12 – Tommy's TC Pro quiver, and wearing the same size shoe for everything1:01:11 – Toenail fungus, and Tommy's experience with Lamisil1:04:53 – Making a living as a pro climber, and which parts have felt like work1:07:09 – Writing the book, and how the book affected his relationship with his dad1:14:32 – Tommy's parenting philosophy, and Becca as “tiger mom”1:18:07 – Patron Question from Eli: Tips for climber dads?1:19:47 – Patron Question from John: Who taught Tommy vulnerability?1:25:10 – Patron Question from TJ: How does Tommy keep the psych through injury?1:26:34 – The story behind Tommy's repeated achilles injury1:31:19 – Does Tommy have things in climbing that feel undone?1:33:16 – Bouldering projects around Estes, and climbing in Upper Chaos1:35:20 – Is Tommy still improving at climbing?1:36:21 – The king line on El Cap1:40:39 – Future linkups in Yosemite1:42:51 – Tommy's favorite Disney movie1:43:30 – Favorite snack for big walls/linkups, and the CUDL experience1:46:13 – Exploring the limits of human endurance, and learning the logistics from ultra runners1:48:29 – How hard does Tommy climb on the Moonboard?1:48:52 – Big wall pooping stories1:51:16 – Another book?1:52:28 – What Tommy is trying to do with environmentalism, and the Oak Flat mine1:55:25 – Wrap up

Legendary photographer and climber Dean Fidelman returns to Nick's Vancast! On this episode, Dean tells us the secrets behind making the perfect photograph as we take a look at some of them on the new Vancast video screen. Later, he shares personal and heartwarming stories behind some of his most iconic images of folks including Dean Potter and Chris Sharma. --- Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/nicksvancast/support

Legendary photographer and climber Dean Fidelman returns to Nick's Vancast! On this episode, Dean tells us the secrets behind making the perfect photograph as we take a look at some of them on the new Vancast video screen. Later, he shares personal and heartwarming stories behind some of his most iconic images of folks including Dean Potter and Chris Sharma. --- Support this podcast: https://anchor.fm/nicksvancast/support

Nathaniel Coleman is the men's silver medalist of the Tokyo Olympics. We talked about his preparation for the games, training in a climbing sauna, the Olympic experience and winning silver, favorite root beer, Kendama as focus training, chess, why Nathaniel still practices the basics of climbing, doing the FA of ‘The Grand Illusion' V16, and sport climbing plans.Support the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportWe are supported by these amazing BIG GIVERS:Bryan FastBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/nathaniel-colemanNuggets:4:30 – Garbage trucks, and a Tuesday morning in the life of Nathaniel Coleman6:04 – What the two months following the Olympics have looked like for Nathaniel8:20 – Finding out that climbing would be in the Olympics and having qualifying as a goal10:44 – How Nathaniel's goals evolved throughout the process11:45 – Nathaniel's mantra for combined nationals 2019, and the journey to qualifying15:25 – How Nathaniel used his mantra, and self-belief vs. letting go of expectations17:25 – Confidence, upbringing, and competing for himself20:27 – The dice roll of competition22:10 – Climbing with Kyle O'Meara, Nathaniel's relaxed approach to training as a teenager, comparing himself to Sean Bailey, and thriving on a plan with “adequate rest”25:50 – Balancing listening to motivation and pushing through it26:46 – Typical training volumes for World Cup climbers30:39 – How Nathaniel's training to qualify for the Olympics vs. how he trained for Tokyo34:25 – Balancing World Cups with prep for Tokyo36:01 – Building a climbing “sauna” at the USA training center36:15 – Getting used to climbing in the heat and humidity40:41 – How Tokyo compared to the training sauna43:19 – What it was like to get on the plane and fly to Tokyo46:28 – The qualifying round in Tokyo, and realizing he made finals52:16 – Recalibrating goals after making finals53:48 – Finals1:03:18 – Watching Jacob top the lead route1:05:55 – Patron Question from Tyler: When it was all said and done, what did you think about the Olympic format?1:08:19 – More context about the Olympic format, and  Nathaniel's thoughts on continuing to speed climb after Tokyo1:10:35 – Great Aunt Armida1:13:04 – Nathaniel's Instagram posts after winning silver in Tokyo1:14:54 – What Nathaniel's accomplishment meant for US climbing 1:17:59 – The first and second perspective-changing events in Nathaniel's climbing career1:19:55 – Thoughts about hard outdoor rock climbing vs. competitions moving forward1:21:54 – How Nathaniel balances training for outdoor routes vs. competitions, and preparing for a trip to the Red1:24:25 – Context about ‘The Grand Illusion'1:25:02 – Patron Question from Nick: Do you have any plans to come back to work on the ‘Lee Majors' extension?1:27:34 –  Patron Question from Timothy: Does Nathaniel ever see himself getting into highball bouldering or trad/big wall climbing?1:28:54 – Thoughts on retiring from competitions (when and why)1:30:40 – Rootbeer1:32:58 – Kendama1:35:55 – How Nathaniel still practicing the basics in climbing1:38:56 – Bonz Atron (the Chris Sharma of Kendama)1:40:18 – Chess1:41:28 – What Nathaniel does to relax and recharge1:42:52 – Special thanks to Josh, Zach, and Meg1:44:44 – Excited for the Red1:45:58 – Gratitude

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what's going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing's GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram IFSC apology Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Chris Sharma makes his RunOut podcast debut to catch us up on what's going on his busy life as a gym owner who just opened the biggest climbing gym in Barcelona, a TV show host, a father, and of course, sport climbing's GOATiest GOAT. We dive into life, happiness, meeting Aquaman at Hueco, finding balance, the state of the sport, and future aspirations. And for our Final Bit, Lee Sheftel, local hero and friend, tickles the ivories and shares the secret of eternal youth. Show Notes Sharma Climbing gym HBO Max show announcement Chris Sharma on Instagram IFSC apology Lee Sheftel profile in the Daily Camera Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcastContact us Send ideas, voicemail, feedback and more. andrew@runoutpodcast.com // chris@runoutpodcast.com

Ben Ditto is a professional climber and photographer from Bishop, California. We talked about Ben's upbringing and early climbing, competing against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, falling in love with the mountains, Dynafit dangling and near-death experiences, advice for aspiring photographers, The Adventures of the Dodo, and climbing ‘Father Time' with his wife Katie Lambert. You can learn more about Ben at bendittophoto.comSupport the Podcast:thenuggetclimbing.com/supportBecome a Patron:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbingShow Notes:  thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/ben-dittoNuggets:3:26 – Filming a car commercial4:54 – Ben's studio, and staying interested in learning new things6:58 – Ben's photography, Instagram captions, and visual storytelling9:18 – Getting started in photography, Ben's first camera, and photography as a ticket to freedom11:42 – Pursuing a life that doesn't fit in a box, growing up in Chattanooga TN, and Ben's dad16:01 – Early climbing19:34 – ‘Scared guy'24:18 – Hunter S Thomson quote, “the edge is still out there.”25:05 – Belaying his dad, improving, getting into competition climbing, and flying to San Francisco34:54 – Failing to perform well on a national stage, and competing at Mission Cliffs against Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell39:09 – Early sponsorships42:28 – Moving to Salt Lake, working at the Patagonia store, and falling in love with mountains44:46 – Climbing in the Wasatch, climbing with heroes, American Fork, and finding a different crew50:28 – Career choices, going with what feels natural, and delaying big decisions53:38 – Making stuff, trade booths, getting back into photography, noticing the impact we have on the planet, studying photojournalism, and learning by managing other photographers1:01:30 – Ben's advice for aspiring photographers1:05:22 – Patron Question from Elliot: How to take photos while alpine climbing? 1:08:01 – Behind the scenes of great alpine photography1:10:40 – Climbing and photography as separate things1:13:38 – Patron Question from Tim: What location or climber are you most proud of photographing?1:18:55 – ‘Dynafit dangler'1:32:48 – Processing risk and death, and “You owe it to your climbing partners to really want to be there.”1:38:01 – Stacking the odds in your favor, and being involved in search and rescue1:44:17 – Driving as a pet peeve, and environmental considerations1:47:17 – The Wild Bunch1:57:11 – Harmonica, traveling solo in Patagonia, and sailing to Greenland2:04:20 – ‘The Adventures of the Doto'2:10:32 – The group's current adventures2:13:29 – Climbing ‘Father Time' with Katie, and the strategy vs. ethics of big wall free climbing2:30:16 – Relaxing after the climb, and difficulty of the route2:34:08 – Beefing up the resume, and jumping into the commercial world2:38:11 – Gratitude, and plans for a trip to the South2:40:24 – Update on my climbing, Ben's website, and working on accident reports

Entrevista con Jimena Alarcón, directora de operaciones de Sharma Climbing. ¿Se puede vivir de la escalada? ¿Hay negocio alrededor de este deporte que en Tokyo será olímpico por primera vez? Hoy vamos a intentar responder estas preguntas y muchas más con una venezolana emprendedora que està trabajando para abrir el rocódromo más grande de Europa junto a su pareja, el famoso escalador norteamericano Chris Sharma. Ya disponen de dos centros para practicar la escalada deportiva en BCN y Madrid, pero quieren seguir creciendo con un proyecto que tiene muy buena pinta y que hoy vamos a descubrir. WEB de Sharma Climbing YOUTUBE de Chris Sharma ENLACE para escuchar el podcast ‘El Fútbol de Todos', con Raül Llimós y Marcos López. ENLACE para escuchar el podcast 'Smart Connections' con David Blay. Nos puedes seguir en el Canal de Youtube Sports&Life ¡SUBSCRÍBETE! Contacto y feedback: inside@sportsandlife.com Un Podcast de Sports&Life.

Cultural trends, new gear and community have powered the growth of climbing rather than individual athletes. Occasionally though, a generational talent comes along and blows the whole sport wide open. Chris Sharma was climbing’s first bonafide phenom and ushered in a new chapter of athleticism. Watch Sharma climb Es Pontàs.

Simon Carter is an Australian photographer, and has been described by the editor of Rock and Ice Magazine as “arguably the greatest climbing photographer of all time”. We talked about building his first darkroom at age 15, pursuing full-time climbing in the early ’90s, action vs. landscape, camera equipment, the Taipan/Grampian closure, and Simon’s top 10 climbing photography tips.  Support on Patreon:patreon.com/thenuggetclimbing  Show Notes:  http://thenuggetclimbing.com/episodes/simon-carter  Nuggets:  1:50– The 2018 World Climbing Calendar, and the Onsight Photography business  3:14 – Early photography, and building a darkroom in the family bathroom at age 15  5:10 – Changing schools for photography and discovering climbing  6:06 – Reading mountaineering books, Simon’s childhood nickname, early outdoor adventures, and getting obsessed with rock climbing  8:19 – Working at the Australian University and losing his passion for photography  10:56 – Night school, becoming disillusioned with professional photography, and traveling around Europe for six months  12:26 – Getting a degree in outdoor education, working in gear shops, and saving up money to climb full time  15:38 – Living at Mount Arapiles and rediscovering photography  17:43 – Living on the dole, starting a business, and early work success  19:35 – Climbing ‘Serpentine’ on the Taipan Wall  22:42 – How Simon balances his climbing with his photography  25:55 – Simon’s plea for new climbing photographers to take the time to learn rope systems to be efficient and safe  28:43 – Simon’s elaborate photo rig for Nikon  30:14 – The advantages of using a chest harness  32:57 – Simon’s preferred jumar rig  35:23 – Action and landscape, capturing nature, and “the one thing”  38:32 – How Simon prepares for a specific shot, and balancing preparation with spontaneity  42:10 – Fuji Velvia, color palettes, and switching to digital  43:41 – Spiders  44:01 – Simon’s current camera (Nikon Z6), and mirrorless cameras  45:15 – Simon’s standard lens kit (see show notes for list)  46:07 – Shifting to more guidebook production  47:41 – The Red River Gorge guidebook, and a new way of presenting information  50:51 – The select and full guidebook publication dates, and why the Red is at the top of Simon’s list for climbing destinations  52:02 – Simon’s favorite international climbing areas, the Blue Mountains, a trip to Madagascar, and “what I love about climbing”  54:01 – Update on the Taipan Wall and Grampians closure and access issues  1:03:06 – The new management plan for the Grampians  1:03:40 – What we can do to help save the Grampians (see show notes for links)  1:05:28 – Why Simon is thinking about writing about about the Grampians issue, cultural surveys, and commercialization  1:08:48 – Capturing moments of people’s lives and “it’s about people”  1:11:08 – Simon’s top 10 photography tips (see show notes for a list and a link to an article)  1:15:14 – Getting the fitness back  1:15:45 – Gratitude  1:16:45 – Working on a guidebook to Sydney, putting work out there, and getting feedback  1:18:37 – Where to connect with Simon  1:19:05 – Wold Climbing Calender 2022?  1:21:37 – The real reason Chris Sharma sent ‘La Dura Dura’  

On Episode 197 of the Enormocast, I sit down with former champion comp climber, Katie Brown. Katie Brown inhabited a place in competition climbing in the 90s when the kids took over the sport. Her cohort, the likes of Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, Beth Rodden, were the first wave of young competitors to put the … Continue reading "Episode 197: Katie Brown – The Invisible Girl."

Adventure photographer, Corey Rich, has spent a lot of time hanging out with and documenting some of the most interesting and amazing athletes in the world. And he is exceptionally good at talking about those experiences, so you are in for a treat. Furthermore, Corey has just released his excellent new book, Stories Behind the Images: Lessons from a Life in Adventure Photography, so this was the perfect occasion for a conversation with Corey about his remarkable career; why being good at hanging out is a great quality of a photographer; why making mistakes and being vulnerable makes for great storytelling; and Corey shares some stories about his time with some of the seminal figures in rock climbing, like Fred Beckey, Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell, and Ashima Shiraishi.We also talk about what separates his new book from most other “photo” books (spoiler alert: Stories Behind the Images isn’t really a “photo book”); how changes in photography and film technology affect his work; what his dream assignment would be; and much, much more. You can order his book from Mountaineers, Amazon, or Indiebound, and you can check out his upcoming book tour events at StoriesBehindtheImages.com.TOPICS & TIMES:Corey’s latest project (2:40)Origin of “Stories Behind the Images” (8:03)Why screwing up makes for great stories (11:00)Corey as a “historian” of rock climbing (16:45)How did you pick which essays to include? (21:00)What’s next for Chris Sharma? (28:37)Ashima Shiraishi & honesty on social media (35:22)Photography tips (40:53)What have been the biggest changes in photography? (51:43)What goes into a “perfect” shoot? (56:47)What’s your dream assignment? (1:02:04)What “hanging out” has to do with photography (1:05:35)Favorite chapters in the book? (1:08:12) See acast.com/privacy for privacy and opt-out information.

Paul Robinson has stood at the vanguard of difficult bouldering for years, one of the crop of young beasts to rise to international recognition in the wake of Dave Graham's and Chris Sharma's emergence. Along with climbing a score of V15s, Paul has sought out first ascents on almost every continent, starred in some of the finest climbing films ever made, and most importantly carried himself with humor, creativity, and dignity along the way. Jeremy Fullerton needs no introduction. Literally. He sat in the Thundercling studio for episode 8. If you haven't listened to that...what are you waiting for? Paul and Jeremy joined us for a wide-ranging conversation covering everything from Paul's discovery of climbing as a grommet in New Jersey to why he and Jeremy decided to use a Toys R Us chainsaw to remove timber while building Paul's new house. Paul also digs into media creation, his competitive nature, his bonkers rise as one of the strongest boulderers in the world, and the speculative nature of grading the most difficult rigs on the planet. Finally, for the first time in public, he digs into the controversy surrounding his epic 2010 ascent of the American classic Lucid Dreaming (V15) in the Buttermilks, Bishop, CA. What does it feel like to wake up and realize you might be the strongest boulderer in the world, on that day and in that moment? How do you defend yourself against naysayers after FA'ing one of the most difficult rigs on the planet, with an unimpeachable resume but lacking the "uncut footy" as proof? And what becomes of a climbing culture when our strongest and most admired climbers are lambasted and threatened simply because they didn't get around to setting up a camera to document a send for their sponsors, a film, the consumer, whomever? Paul and Jeremy, like Dante and Virgil, escort us through the inside world of professional climbing, from the goofiest beginnings to the horror of public humiliation to finally owning one's own past and future and taking the reigns for good. It's a helluva tour. Have a question, suggestion, feedback or a good joke? Wanna know what kind of shampoo products Fidi uses to treat that illustrious mane? Drop us a line at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com. We read and respond to every missive. Thanks as always to Ryne Doughty for the dope tunes! Our musical inspiration just took a tumble from a ladder and broke his jaw...and is still playing shows. Heal up, you monster! And, as always, thanks for giving us a listen. We appreciate it beyond words.

***APÚNTATE A LA MASTERCLASS GRATUITA*** Aprende a escalar como un pro aunque aún estés empezando Rockandjoy.com/masterclass     En el episodio de hoy te hablo de los movimientos dinámicos, de cómo poder mejorar muchísimo en la escalada cambiando el estilo y la velocidad de tu escalada. ¿Alguna vez has escuchado que en la escalada, la buena técnica es la que te hace escalar con control y en equilibrio? Esto es probablemente cierto, el problema surge de que estas palabras nos traen connotaciones de movimientos lentos, en los que una mano o pie se pueda separar de la roca lentamente mientras los otros 3 puntos de apoyo permanecen bloqueados y se alcanza una nueva posición de una forma que solemos llamar estática. De hecho yo mismo he llegado a escuchar que para aprender buena técnica debería usar un cascabel y escalar de forma que no lo oiga nunca; así aprenderé a tener control y equilibrio en todo momento. Quizá en los años 70 este era el ideal de técnica en escalada, cuando el material existente era básico y el equipamiento precario, haciendo que las caídas tuvieran consecuencias que ahora por suerte no tienen.   Velocidad vs control Sin embargo, cuando quieres avanzar un poco en tu escalada y pasar de vías muy sencillas a vías más duras, te vas a encontrar con agarres más pequeños, con movimientos más largos y con secuencias que te hacen colocar tu cuerpo de forma rara y desequilibrada… Conforme vas escalando vías más difíciles, la velocidad y el control empiezan a posicionarse como extremos de una balanza. Ambos te ayudan a ahorrar energía y por tanto a escalar mejor, pero si aplicas demasiado de uno a costa del otro pierdes cualquier ganancia que podrías obtener. ¿Has visto escalar en vídeo a los grandes? Justo hace unos días Stephano Gisolphi ha sacado un vídeo en el que escala perfecto mundo, siendo el cuarto escalador en encadenar un 9b+. Si te fijas en como escala, cuando no está reposando, se mueve tan rápido que parece que el video está acelerado.    Equilibrio dinámico La velocidad no sólo te ayuda a reducir el tiempo que estás escalando y por tanto gastando energía; sino que también te ayuda a alcanzar presas a las que no puedes llegar de forma estática o entre comillas, en equilibrio. Cuando vas a realizar un movimiento largo y tu centro de gravedad se tiene que desplazar fuera de tu área de apoyo (la que forman los puntos de apoyo que tienes con la roca) necesitas realizar un movimiento dinámico. Sigue existiendo equilibrio, pero en este caso es equilibrio dinámico. Para obtener equilibrio dinámico utilizas la aceleración o momentum para mover tu cuerpo hacia la presa que quieres coger y te detienes cuando la coges. Inicias el movimiento acelerando tu cuerpo o parte de él en la dirección de la siguiente presa, y realizas el movimiento con control, con equilibrio, pero con velocidad. Si tu envergadura te lo permite, podrías realizar pasos largos de forma estática, pero esto requiere una fuerza física tremenda. El uso del momentum reemplaza a esta fuerza.   ¿Cuando uso el momentum? Estarás de acuerdo conmigo entonces en que para realizar pasos muy largos es necesario usar la velocidad, pero… ¿Y qué pasa con los pasos no tan largos? Cuando las presas son muy pequeñas o muy malas, y sujetarse con dos manos es muy complicado, bloquear con una de ellas para lentamente mover la otra hacia la siguiente presa resulta casi imposible. Si te mueves con velocidad, entonces es posible que alcances la siguiente presa y te agarres antes de que tu cuerpo empiece a decelerar y te caigas. Y ahora llego al meollo del asunto, ¿Y si además de usar la velocidad, empezaras el movimiento antes incluso de soltar la mano que vas a mover? Esto reduce la fuerza extra que necesitas mantener con una sola mano durante el movimiento. Básicamente, si usas la inercia o momentum, estarás por un instante moviéndote sin verte afectado por la gravedad. Podrás alcanzar la siguiente presa antes de que tu peso tire de ti de nuevo. Esta técnica tiene dos ventajas fundamentales, como ya he mencionado, la primera es que la mano que sigue en contacto con la roca necesita ejercer mucha menos fuerza en el agarre. Sin embargo la segunda ventaja es aún más fundamental. Al moverte de forma dinámica generas más fuerza desde tus piernas que al moverte de forma estática. Por tanto, la misma vía escalada de forma estática te cansará más los antebrazos que escalada de forma dinámica. Recapitulo, para pasos largos, o pasos en los que tengas presas muy malas o pequeñas el uso del momentum es realmente necesario y eficiente. ¿Pero y qué pasa en las secciones fáciles? ¿Y en movimientos con cantos grandes? Aquí puedes escalar de forma estática sin problemas ¿no?En realidad no,y la razón es que un estilo dinámico de escalar es más eficiente, utiliza menos energía para hacer los mismos movimientos. Aunque vayas a buen canto, vas a necesitar menos fuerza en los antebrazos y vas a generar más fuerza con las piernas, y así ahorras energía para el crux de la vía donde la vas a necesitar. En conclusión, deberías usar el momentum prácticamente en todos los movimientos en tu escalada. Las excepciones serían movimientos en los que tengas un riesgo objetivo si te cayeras, y movimientos muy muy precisos donde tengas que ir despacio para acertar en el lugar oportuno… Pero salvando esto, escalar de forma dinámica te va a hacer mejorar un montón… Vas a poder aprovechar mejor la fuerza y la resistencia que tienes, en vez de gastarla de forma ineficiente moviéndote como un perezoso. ¡Y además es divertido! Pásatelo bien aprendiendo y soltandote con este estilo.   Tipos de movimientos dinámicos Pero no te pienses que utilizar el momentum es solo hacer grandes saltos rollo Chris Sharma, como te digo, puedes usar la inercia en prácticamente cada movimiento, y en muy muy raras ocasiones vas a soltar tus dos manos a la vez para hacer un lance a dos manos. Voy entonces a repasar los 4 tipos de movimientos dinámicos más comunes y es tu tarea visualizarlos y empezar a ponerlos en práctica en el rocódromo, así poco a poco los irás incorporando a tu repertorio     El impulso con las piernas.   Es el movimiento dinámico por excelencia.Empiezas dejando tu peso caer con los brazos y hombros estirados, colocas los pies altos y flexionas las rodillas. Desde esta posición encogida, empujas fuerte con las piernas para moverte hacia arriba y soltar una mano cuando tengas la presa al alcance. Practicalo en agarres grandes e intenta agarrar presas lo más lejanas posibles. Cuando lo domines puedes probar a soltar ambas manos y llegar más lejos aún, verás que divertido.   El péndulo de caderas.   Empezando el movimiento igual que antes, vas a intentar alcanzar una presa que esté lejos pero hacia un lado en vez de hacia arriba. Empieza el movimiento moviendo tu cadera de lado a lado como un péndulo y continúa este péndulo con un buen empujón de las piernas hacia el lado cuando vayas a alcanzar la presa. Si no lo has practicado nunca te darás cuenta de que cuesta un poco cogerle el tranquillo al plano en el que te mueves, y no salir despedido hacia fuera de la pared. Por eso, practica y practica, como un monito.   El impulso de caderas   Cuando estás en un desplome y tienes las manos y pies abiertos, mirando a la roca, el impulso con las piernas resulta muy difícil de hacer. Sin embargo puedes hacer un impulso parecido con las caderas. Dejas que tu culo se separe de la roca y cuelgas con los brazos estirados y las piernas flexionadas, desde esta postura impulsa tus caderas hacia la roca, como si quieras darle un pollazo, y al mismo tiempo te extiendes para alcanzar la siguiente presa.   El cabezazo   En placas verticales, donde tengas agarres pequeños que te impidan preparar el movimiento como lo he comentado antes, simplemente separa tu cabeza y tronco de la roca ligeramente y lanza la cabeza y los hombros suavemente hacia la dirección en la que quieres moverte para ganarle un segundo a la gravedad   Bueno! Ahora ya sabes un secreto a voces que puede llevar tu escalada a nuevas cotas, aumentando tu grado y tu disfrute! Existen muchos más tipos de movimiento en los que se puede aplicar la inercia pero no quiero abrumarte, lo que sí quiero es que te fijes en escaladores que conozcas o en los grandes en vídeo y analices si escalan rápido, lento, más estático o más dinámico. Por ejemplo échale un vistazo al encadene de Biographie de Margo Hayes, nos da una auténtica lección del uso del momentum, prácticamente o está reposando o está lanzándose a por la siguiente presa, con un dominio exquisito de su técnica y una gestión de la energía sin precedentes.    Y por supuesto, practica en tu calentamiento, y pronto te verás escalando de forma más dinámica y fluida!!   Si te ha gustado por favor suscríbete, me puedes encontrar en Ivoox, Itunes, Spotify y en Youtube y por supuesto en rockandjoy.com, comparte y deja un comentario, estaré encantado de responderte.   El mundo es tu rocódromo, sal ahí fuera y disfrútalo!

On Episode 178 of the Enormocast, I sit down with Canadian rock and ice climber, Will Gadd. Will hit the early sport climbing scene in Boulder, Colorado in the 80s and has never looked back. As an early comp climber, Will had the honor of getting crushed by a young Chris Sharma. Switching his focus … Continue reading "Episode 178: Will Gadd – Stoked on the Magic."

In episode 22 of the Life Through a Dram podcast, I share some examples of stories from my youth, as well as other inspiring stories I've heard through the years. Because stories matter, as I discuss in this week's episode. After all, we know how storytelling has enthralled generation after generation through the ages. But have you ever stopped to consider your own stories, and how they can not only enthrall, but inspire others to share their stories, and perhaps change the world into the bargain? Topics on the menu include: When James Bond used to deliver milk to my grandma How I used my own beatings as a child to be the kind of dad I wanted to be How a lesson as a teenager shaped how I raise my son and daughter in the #MeToo age How an American rock climber named Chris Sharma changed rock-climbing forever The inspiring story of a young boy named Jesse Why these stories, and more like them, should encourage us to tell our own stories more Settle back for a reflection on why storytelling can be much more than just someone reading a book, and why our own stories - and sharing them with others - can make the world a place we can truly love and grow. Support Life Through a Dram Subscribe or leave a review on iTunes (https://itunes.apple.com/ca/podcast/life-through-a-dram/id1378026245) Subscribe or leave a review on Google Podcasts (https://www.google.com/podcasts?feed=aHR0cHM6Ly9hbmNob3IuZm0vcy8zYTBlOTJjL3BvZGNhc3QvcnNz) Subscribe on Spotify (https://open.spotify.com/show/1oNmjjai1QRpPn5vfxHvLn) Support with a donation (https://paypal.me/socialmediabusiness?locale.x=en_US) - it helps keep the whisky topped up! :) My equipment: Samson Q2U Dynamic Mic (https://geni.us/mDWyiz5) RockJam MS050 Adjustable Mic Suspension Boom (https://geni.us/nGkr) Dragonpad Pop Filter (https://geni.us/AifWU5) Resources mentioned in today's show: I Was a #MeToo Guy, and I'm Sorry (https://medium.com/athena-talks/i-was-a-metoo-guy-and-im-sorry-597d779dfdfd) Chris Sharma (https://youtu.be/C6b3RrHqeEM) The Little Book of Inspiration (https://geni.us/k0qz) Auchentoshan Three Wood Whisky (https://www.auchentoshan.com/three-wood) Support this podcast

Besides a dog with a head like a bowling ball slobbering all over you, the first thing you notice when you walk into Dave Wahl's house is the copious amount of training and sports science books scattered about his kitchen and living room. Beyond being one of the preeminent climbing coaches and trainers working in the States today, Dave is a student of athletic movement and efficiency. Dave's been refining his coaching/training process since his early days working with Rob Pizem, before Piz was "Piz." He's lent his vast knowledge to climbing luminaries such as Daniel Woods, Chelsea Rude, Piz, Madeleine Sorkin, Mercedes Pollmeier, and a thousand other rock fondlers flashing your projects. Dave invited us into his Denver home to chat about his coaching philosophy, why a strong core may not be your limiting factor, how to mitigate persistent injuries like tendonitis and tendinosis, and why he thinks Chris Sharma is the finest raw talent to ever rope up...but Adam Ondra is the best climber in the world. Grab a Snickers bar (don't do that), do a thousand crunches (totally unnecessary), cycle through a couple laps on the campus board without warming up (strongly advise against), and let Dave take you on a journey to training enlightenment! Have a question, suggestion, pitch, or criticism? Drop us a line at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com. We respond to every note we receive. Thanks to Ryne Doughty, as always, for the harmonious jams! Thanks for listening, gang. We'll be back in two weeks to assault and harass your ear holes!

I was living in South Korea, teaching English during the weekdays and feverishly putting up FAs with a tight crew of expats during the weekends, when I first saw Sender Film's Pilgrimage. The film follows Chris Sharma, Katie Brown, and Nate Gold as they peruse the granite eggs dotting acre upon acre in Hampi, India. Sipping my Hite beer at night, I would watch it on repeat, mouth agape, heart quickening, annoying my non-climber roomie in some shithole apartment in an industrial enclave of Incheon. Dreams of climbing in Hampi finally gave way to planning. After a bit of salesmanship, I'd gathered a crew of six for a month-long foray into the land of the Vijyanagara Empire. Outside of shattering my tibia with five days to go, Hampi gave us adventure in spades, from leaping over king cobras to death highballs to the slow, colorful river life on the banks of the Tungabhadra. Pilgrimage made all of this possible. Ignoring the dangers of hyperbole, Pilgrimage changed all of our lives. Thundercling's first Sauce Night crashes into your ears as an homage to the dreams and aspirations we cull from climbing vids, from the rough and tumble Free Hueco to the finely-crafted character sketches of Free Solo and The Dawn Wall. We abuse our climbing movies. We steal beta. We foment dreams. West Coast Pimp sent me to Bishop, CA for the first time in 2001. Reel Rock hosting duties for the immaculate Valley Uprising demanded my first trip to Yosemite (where I broke another leg -- YAY!). Climbing movies are vessels into which we tuck our dreams and set them a sail into the barely known. For many of us, they are the pyres upon which our ambitions burn. Lynn and Travis, 30 years of climbing and movie drooling between them, join Fidi and I for this round-table on climbing movies, which vids cut the deepest, and an investigation into how to destroy our livers during a single one-hour podcast segment. Crack a libation and enjoy our inaugural Sauce Night! Have some bones to pick with our movie selections? Want to pen an essay for Thundercling? Have an idea for the next Sauce Night? Get a hold of us anytime at thunderclingpodcast@gmail.com! We read and respond to every email we receive. Thanks as always to the lovely Ryne Doughty for the crusher tunes.

This is the fifth and final episode in our study of Energy System Training theory and application. In this 90-minute tour de force, Eric presents the art of the science via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make your energy system training optimally effective. This is powerful material—understanding and applying this cutting-edge sports science will empower you to elevate your training outcomes...and climb harder! Podcast Rundown 2:50 – Recap of the genesis of my study of energy systems more than 5 years ago. After a two-year review of the latest research and sports science, I discovered that some aspect of the old school sports science—and even some physiology textbooks—were outdated and even wrong on some important details. Therefore, what I’m trying to do with my book Training for Climbing and these podcasts is apply the latest sports science, research, and training technology to climbing. Only this way will we optimize training programs and advance the sport! 5:20 – What I’m presenting in this series of 5 podcasts is the cutting edge of training for climbing…that may open the door to 5.16a in the next 5 to 10 years...and help the mass of climbers achieve their climbing goals and beyond! 8:15 – Eric shares a brief anecdote from his week at the International Rock Climbing Researchers congress in Chamonix, France...about meeting the Japan National Climbing Team head coach Hiroshi Yasui. 10:58 – The focus of this podcast is the art of the science…via 8 key ideas and distinctions to make energy system training optimally effective. This is important and powerful summary material that will pull together the key concepts from the 4 previous podcasts…and empower you to get the most out of your training both in the short and long term. 13:08 – How advanced training is like playing 3-D chess. 14:20 – Key Idea #1: Though we talk about (and train) them separately, all 3 energy systems contribute toward power in almost every climbing move and training exercise. It's vitally important to understand how the three energy pathways influence, support, and even inhibit each other. 17:10 – Key Idea #2: Effective energy system training must target a specific pathway as much as possible. To optimally trigger training adaptations, the goal is to maximize the flux through a single energy pathway. You can’t train intuitively…or go to the gym and “just climb”—this approach is too imprecise for an advanced climber to make meaning gains. 21:30 – Key Idea #3: Working on your project is not effective energy system training. Listen and learn why… 24:55 – A quick side story about Alex Megos working on the "Bibliography" project at Céüse…quite possibly a 9c/5.15d route. 27:54 - Key Idea #4: Energy system training for short-term adaptations and long-term gains are two very different things. While the former may help you send your current project, it's a commitment to the latter that will help you reach your genetic potential. 31:54 – Learn the secrets to long-term gains—which energy system(s) will advance your climbing…and what novel training adaptations you are after. This is brand new material to the climbing world—listen closely! (I first introduced this cutting-edge sport science in the first energy system training podcast in March 2018.) 36:40 – A brief, but important tangent on long-term development and mastery. As exemplified by Chris Sharma and Tommy Caldwell, you too can build-up strength, power, and endurance for 15 or 20 years (perhaps longer)….if you stay uninjured! 43:00 – Key Idea #5: Genetics do play a roll in determining your training gains and absolute climbing potential. Like it or not, genetics does play a role in training adaptations and how hard you may someday climb. That said, you can exert significant influence over your gene expression via the epigenetic effects of your day-to-day diet, training, and lifestyle. Energy System Training is one way to exert influence over your genes! 54:06 – Key Idea #6: A two-a-day workout schedule can be very beneficial for advanced/elite climbers, but the two sessions should be separated by 6 to 8 hours to optimize workout quality and minimize interference (of adaptation signaling). Intense strength/power workouts are best done in the afternoon or evening, so other forms of training—aerobic climbing, generalized aerobic activity, and similar—are best done early in the day (based on science). Of course, everyone is different (genetics, time available, other life issues)...and so your "best schedule" might require a different approach. #Nuance 1:00:30 – Bonus tip: Reduce or eliminate your antagonist training during your climbing performance season. Learn why this will help a well-trained, non-injured climber perform a bit better. 1:03:00 – Key Idea #7: You can learn and benefit a lot by keeping records of your workouts, subjective feelings, key performance indicators, and your climbing achievements. Digital and other online records, like 8a.nu and Vertical-Life.info, are a good place to start; but written records have great value, too. Learn why. 1:06:35 – Key Idea #8: Energy system programming is the ultimate "art of the science". Getting long term results requires a knowledgable coach, accurate testing, and progression program design that is artfully crafted around periods of performance climbing and/or competition. Personalized training is essential—nuance is key. 1:08:47 – Eric offers training program advice for beginners. 1:11:55 – Some programming tips for intermediate/accomplished climbers. 1:14:45 – Short- and long-term training program advice for advanced weekend warriors and professional/elite climbers. 1:22:27 – Summary comments about energy system training and the future of training for climbing. How high quality information and coaching is like a power tool that, through leverage, multiplies your current strength, talent, and climbing ability. Seek out the best information and coaches available—and become the best climber you can be! 1:24:00 - My thoughts on how becoming a better climber can make you a better human being...and empower you to positively impact other people (and perhaps change the world!) in small, but meaningful ways. PLEASE SHARE THIS PODCAST with your friends via Social Media or an embed on your climbing blog. Thank you! For more on energy system training (and a myriad other training tips and techniques) pick up a copy of the latest edition of the best-selling Training for Climbing. Follow Eric on Twitter @Train4Climbing Check out Eric’s YouTube channel. Follow Eric on Facebook! Music by: Misty Murphy Subscribe on iTunes (or other podcast player) to "Eric Hörst's Training For Climbing" podcast. You can also listen to the T4C podcast on Spotify! Please write a review on iTunes! Photo: Cameron Horst lowering after the send at Tetto di Sarre, Italy.

Von vielen Zuhörern sicherlich bereits sehnlichst erwartet: DIE Fortsetzung zu Gold-Podcast 611. Auch dieses, gut 45-minütige Exklusivinterview entstand im „Vorbereitungswinter 2017“ Anfang März 2017. Dabei ging's zuerst um die „existenziellen“ Themen eines jeden Profiathleten. Denn seit Sebastian Halenke der Schule als Teenager „freiwillig Goodbye“ wünschte, fokussiert sich der mittlerweile 21-jährige voll, auch durch die Unterstützung von Sponsoren und Familie, aufs Klettern. Wie sieht er sich langfristig aufgestellt, bzw. existiert ein „Plan B“, als Alternative zu seiner Profilaufbahn? Was hält er von marketingtechnisch oft extrem gepushten, neuen Wettkampfformaten à la „The Projekt“ und warum steht für ihn, trotz attraktivem Preisgeld, die „Schwedenprojektreise“ nicht auf dem Plan? Wie sieht er die Stellung der Wettkampfkletterer in Bezug auf „Big-Money-Sportarten“ aber auch im Vergleich zu den „Rockstars“ wie Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma, Alex Megos & Co.? Und KLAR! Einen Überblick über seine Weltcupvorbereitungswoche, zum Interviewzeitpunkt sehr Maximalkraftbetont, darf sein! Wie gestaltet er seine komplexen Doppelsplit-Workouts und welche Prioritäten setzt er im Training? Warum ist oft eine gute Stunde Warm-Up und auch ausgiebiges Dehnen nach dem Training für ihn, neben einem regenerationsförderndem Life-Style, ein „professional MUST HAVE DONE“? Und ... wie viel Flexibilität darf trotz strikter Planung sein? Alle Antworten und wie immer ein Top-Vorabspann mit Szene-Insider Sven Albinus und ... Gewinnspiel!

Chris Sharma – Legend Chris Sharma; It’s hard to tell where to begin with this...

Chris’s Wild Idea: To establish and climb the most challenging routes in the world.  Chris Sharma is one of climbing’s most accomplished athletes. He started climbing at the young age of twelve in gyms in his native Santa Cruz, CA and now searches out the most difficult, beautiful, and seemingly impossible climbs known to man. He continues to push the limits of what’s possible in the sport, and isn’t afraid to pursue routes that can take him years to accomplish. In 2013, he opened a gym, Sender One, in Los Angeles. He now lives in Barcelona, Spain with his wife and daughter, where he just opened his own climbing gym, Sharma Climbing. I recently had a chance to sit down with Chris at a friend’s dinner party and got to ask him about his climbing and life philosophies, his passion for deep water soloing, the evolution of the sport, being a stunt double on the movie Point Break, and so much more.  Listen to this episode if:  You’re a climber.  You want to try deep water soloing. You love travel and adventure. For full show notes, including guest links and books mentioned during the episode, visit: http://wildideasworthliving.com/18

Bereits in den Platin-Podcasts 529 und 572 gelangen Jürgen Reis 2015 und Anfang 2016 zwei Exklusivinterviews mit DEM absoluten Ausnahmekletterer. Denn Felsklettern gibt's für ihn höchstens „nebenbei ... als Zeitvertreib ...“. Ansonsten steht 6 Tage pro Woche, meist im Doppelsplit, Training an. Und zwar, von einem Leichtathletik-Coach trainiert, auch mit einem massiven Anteil an Kraft- und Athletikdrills. Doch wie sieht der ungeschlagene Weltrekordhalter (5,60 Sekunden für 15 leicht überhängende Klettermeter im 7. UIAA-Grad!) seiner Zukunft entgegen? Kann er die olympische „Kombiwertung“ für sich entscheiden und wenn ja, mit welchen Strategien? Wie sieht er sich im Vergleich zu den medienomnipräsenten „Rockstars“ anderer Kletterdisziplinen wie Adam Ondra, Chris Sharma & Co.? Wie gestaltet er seinen Life-Style und welchen Einfluss haben athletengerechte Ernährung und Supplementierung? Wie und warum gönnte er sich zur Interviewzeit (Anfang Nov. 2016) seit 5 Jahren die erste 12-tägige Off-Season bzw. einen Kurzurlaub in Italien? Wir garantieren: Ein weiteres Topinterview mit einem Paradeathleten, der vermutlich auch in anderen olympischen Sportarten durchaus Medaillenchancen hätte! Inkl. Vor- und Abspann mit „Mr. KLIMMEREI“ und 8-fach-Speedstaatsmeister Mark Amann und … XL-Gewinnspiel!

„Erste 9a (UIAA 11) onsight!“, hieß es 2013 – nicht nur in den Klettermedien. Und nicht, wie erwartet, die „üblichen Verdächtigen“ Adam Ondra oder Chris Sharma hatten dieses mal die Weltrekordlatte einen Level höher gelegt, sondern Alexander Megos. Es folgten Blitzbegehungen u.a. von Wolfgang Güllichs Testpiece Action Directe, ein 8c-Boulder in den USA und zuletzt mit First Round First Minute 9b (UIAA 12). Jürgen Reis gelang für www.Power-Quest.cc und somit für EUCH nun das, wovon andere Podcasts bestenfalls träumen können: Der 22-jährige, sehr medienselektiv agierende Jungprofi gab ihm, gemeinsam mit seinem Mentor, und „Mr. GIMMEKRAFT“-Trainer (zuletzt in den Podcasts 509 und 442 zu Gast) sein erstes Audiocastinterview überhaupt. Die Themen: Was hält Matros von der immensen Flut an „neuen“ Trainingsstrategien, -Apps, -Büchern und „Onlinecoachings“? Warum ist in seinen Augen vieles, „trendig, Innovative“ im wahrsten Sinne des Wortes „digitalisiertes Steinzeitwissen“? Wie trennt er andererseits selbst die Spreu vom Weizen und warum gönnt er z.B. Experten wie „Griffkraftstudien-Doktor“ Jerry Medernach sehr wohl die „Butter aufs Brot“? Was ist von Facebook- und YouTube-“Trainingsübungen“ der Topkletterer zu halten und warum werden grundlegende Leistungsparameter nach wie vor falsch bewertet? Welches sind die effektivsten Fingerkaft- und Griffboard-Trainingsstrategien, denen auch Alex Megos seine „Stahlfinger“ verdankt? Was sind die optimalen Ausgleichsübungen an Turnringen & Co.? Wie gelang es Alexander überhaupt, seit der Pubertät, über 15 kg (!) an purer GIMMEKRAFT-Kletterathletik zuzulegen UND dabei seine Hauptstärke, das Kraft-Lastverhältnis sogar noch zu optimieren? Und Last, but not least: Warum gibt's für Alex auch das, was für viele Kletterer bestenfalls als „langweilig“ oder „Softie-Workout“ eingestuft wird: Yoga und Joggen am Ruhetag? Wir garantieren: alle Antworten in einer XXL-Platin-Perle mit Vor- und Abspann inkl. Profikletterer Sven Albinus und Berufstrainer Sebastian Förster und ... GIMMEKRAFT-Gewinnspiel!

KNOCKING DOWN THE MENTAL BARRIERS with Ethan Pringle. Have you ever wondered what goes on inside the mind of one of the greatest rock climbers. Listen to this podcast with incredible takeaways at the very end, and it could forever change the way you deal with super challenging moments. To watch Ethan Pringle videos please visit www.tripleblack.com ABOUT: On May 17th 2015, Ethan Pringle made history by becoming the second person to climb Jumbo Love (5.15b) at Clark Mountain in southern California.   Hailed as the hardest rock climb in North America, and one of the hardest climbs in the world, next to La Dura Dura and Change (both rated 5.15c), this 250-foot limestone masterpiece was first climbed by Chris Sharma in 2008, and went unrepeated for another seven years until Pringle put it all together. 

In this exclusive interview, Chris talks about his new climbing gym in Barcelona, how he’s rediscovered climbing and gotten the ‘Fire’ back with a few new projects, and how he controls the negative chatter inside his mind. For those desiring to RED POINT harder - this Podcast with an incredible takeaway at the end will prove invaluable. To watch Chris Sharma videos please visit www.tripleblack.com

On Episode 22, Andrew Bisharat and I discuss why hard climbing is so important to everyone. We hit on grades, appropriate hero worship, why Americans are the lifestyle climbers of the world, and how Ecstasy, sex, and climbing go together . Also, unbeknownst to him, we decide that Chris Sharma is the world's saddest climber. … Continue reading "Episode 22: Climb hard and walk tall with Andrew Bisharat."

On Episode 22, Andrew Bisharat and I discuss why hard climbing is so important to everyone. We hit on grades, appropriate hero worship, why Americans are the lifestyle climbers of the world, and how Ecstasy, sex, and climbing go together . Also, unbeknownst to him, we decide that Chris Sharma is the world’s saddest climber. … Continue reading "Episode 22: Climb hard and walk tall with Andrew Bisharat."

Once you reach a certain point in your career it's great to be able to sit back and reflect upon what you've accomplished. It's gratifying to see in hindsight how far you've come and this vantage point you can also look forward to what you have yet to achieve in the future. At the age of 29 professional climber Chris Sharma is in a good position to see the route his life has taken so far and start making plans to a forge a new line, a course of travel into the years that lie ahead. Known as one of the strongest sport climbers in world today, Chris Sharma continues to set the curve for aspiring and professional rock monkeys alike. Appearing in several feature films he first came to my attention back in 2007 during a pre-release screening of the movie King Lines. In this production from Sender Films Sharma introduced audiences to the emerging discipline of deep water soloing where climbers scale incredibly hard routes on rock faces high above ocean pools. In King Lines he works a particularly difficult problem whose crux is a 7-foot dyno to be stuck or risk a 60-foot fall to sea below. Combining athleticism and a profound appreciation for the natural world Chris Sharma is a climber of both strength and grace that defines the lifestyle and passion of a man comfortable in the profession he loves. See Chris Sharma in  Sender Film's "First Ascent: The Series" available on DVD and online download in September Music by Chad Farran and new contributing artist Erich Lenk The Joy Trip Project is brought to you thanks to our  sponsor Patagonia. We don't take money from just anyone. Sponsors of the Joy Trip Project support our mission of an active lifestyle through outdoor recreation and community involvement. Support us by supporting them. Find a link to their web sites on ours at JoyTripProject.com Special social media coverage of the New River Rendezvous comes courtesy of Osprey, Prana, Trango, Sterling Rope, Evolv, Chaco, the New River Alliance of Climbers and Waterstone Outdoors. Social media is a vibrant exchange of ideas.  Join the conversation by becoming engaged.  Send us an email to info@Joy Trip Project.com. Or find us on Facebook or Twitter

Once you reach a certain point in your career it's great to be able to sit back and reflect upon what you've accomplished. It's gratifying to see in hindsight how far you've come and this vantage point you can also look forward to what you have yet to achieve in the future. At the age of 29 professional climber Chris Sharma is in a good position to see the route his life has taken so far and start making plans to a forge a new line, a course of travel into the years that lie ahead. Known as one of the strongest sport climbers in world today, Chris Sharma continues to set the curve for aspiring and professional rock monkeys alike. Appearing in several feature films he first came to my attention back in 2007 during a pre-release screening of the movie King Lines. In this production from Sender Films Sharma introduced audiences to the emerging discipline of deep water soloing where climbers scale incredibly hard routes on rock faces high above ocean pools. In King Lines he works a particularly difficult problem whose crux is a 7-foot dyno to be stuck or risk a 60-foot fall to sea below. Combining athleticism and a profound appreciation for the natural world Chris Sharma is a climber of both strength and grace that defines the lifestyle and passion of a man comfortable in the profession he loves. See Chris Sharma in  Sender Film's "First Ascent: The Series" available on DVD and online download in September Music by Chad Farran and new contributing artist Erich Lenk The Joy Trip Project is brought to you thanks to our  sponsor Patagonia. We don't take money from just anyone. Sponsors of the Joy Trip Project support our mission of an active lifestyle through outdoor recreation and community involvement. Support us by supporting them. Find a link to their web sites on ours at JoyTripProject.com Special social media coverage of the New River Rendezvous comes courtesy of Osprey, Prana, Trango, Sterling Rope, Evolv, Chaco, the New River Alliance of Climbers and Waterstone Outdoors. Social media is a vibrant exchange of ideas.  Join the conversation by becoming engaged.  Send us an email to info@Joy Trip Project.com. Or find us on Facebook or Twitter