The Careless Talk Climbing Podcast

Austin Hoyt joins us on the pod this week! A name that's fun to say and he's a lovely chap who was really fun to talk to. We chat a lot about the lesser trodden North-East of the USA, heading to Finland to check out Burden of Dreams, using coordination moves to avoid having to pull too hard and the incredible crop of Wads that have popped up in his local area all of a sudden. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us keep it free and without adverts for everyone then please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Hey all!  You've had it too good with guests for the last couple of week so it's time to bring you back down to earth with a home team episode. We've got a few quintessentially CTCP rambles for your delight and delectation. Hope you enjoy :)If you like the pod and would like to support us to keep doing it whilst keeping it advertisement free for all, then please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

A little over a year ago I got a message from Aidan just saying 'Daniel is in!'. You know you're a bit of an icon when surnames aren't required! It took a little over a year to actually get a date but much like a hard project, sometimes it just takes consistency! You know who he is, and we had a great chat about his hard projects, what the climbing scene is looking like from his perspective, how he searches for consistency when projecting and what his future is looking like. We chatted about a bunch of stuff and it was a great chat. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We loved having Kai join us on the pod this week. He's a candidate for the most articulate climber around. He's been through a lot and he's come back swinging. We talk about his rise, fall and resurgence, his time climbing with Joe Kinder and the controversies there, his non-profit, and his hopes for the future. I poorly referenced this speech about how intelligence is linked to kindness: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fjesSOLHWwE&ab_channel=CookieFunWorld. worth a watch!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ben and Cailean are joining us for a four way pod this week! Ben and Cailean are the chaps behind Impact Route Setting. Which is a business that, amongst other things, runs route setting courses. They are both very well established route setters in the UK, as well as being strong rock climbers. We wanted to have a good chat about the inside scene, and listen to their takes about the state of the industry. We had a long chat about indoor grading and we also got their opinions about the IFSC scoring changes and how that might impact the route setters who have the tricky job of setting in the big leagues. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Just Aidan and Sam this week! We're catching up with Aidan as he looks to leave Yosemite, what life might look like for him if he lived in America and how that might impact his decision to not fly. At 52:45 we finally get to our first topic of conversation, the new IFSC scoring for boulder comps and at 1:21:45 we rattle a few cages and ask if sport climbers should bolt on resin holds if the alternative is altering the rock with hammers and sika. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

This week we're joined by Eric Jerome, Eric is a really strong boulderer who has been on a mission to identify the best boulders in the US. An avid climbing nerd he's been a big contributor to the climbing history website and has a really analytical mind for adjudicating quality. We talk about his hunt for boulders, why he moved to a less popular area for climbers, his previous eating disorder and the many lessons he's learned along the way as well as his work for KAYA. Definitely one of our classic pub chatty style episodes! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

It's always really good fun to have Katie on the pod, and thankfully she's done a thing which gives us an excuse to have her back. She has climbed V16 again, we talk about her process (amongst other ramblings) and her motivations and feelings towards how her motivations will be perceived by the climbing community. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Joining us this week is coach of the stars (and other less successful (but no less valuable) rock climbers) Charlie Schreiber! We had a really good time chatting to Charlie, it was fun but also we got some good insights from a guy who has been through quite a lot of the ups and downs that climbing has to offer. I reckon this is a good'un!Check out Paradigm climbing if you're interested in getting coached by Charlie. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We were excited to be joined by Will this week. Will has been one of the most frequently requested guests on our discord. He's one of the brains behind Tension climbing, and so he knows a heck of a lot about one of our favourite topics, board climbing! He also used to be a coach and has clearly spent a lot of time thinking about training in general and has some great takes. Hope you enjoy!If you're enjoying our podcast then please do consider checking out our Patreon page : https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We were psyched to have Carlo Traversi joining us on the pod this week! He's an incredibly accomplished climber. developer and now gym owner! We chat about the gym, his changing motivations as he gets older and became a father, development in Yosemite and how to keep an incredible bouldering area off the map (just kidding). If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider joining our fine and handsome community of distinguished Patroons! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Allison is a pretty great podcast guest! She's talented and accomplished but also honest and has a great sense of humour. We're fans of her and Kyra's podcast (CircleUp, check it out) and so it was a real treat to complete the set and have her on our rambly mess of a podcast to go along with Kyra's episode. We talk about the transition to outdoor climbing, the pressures of projecting, trying to enjoy the process without letting failure get you down and of course we couldn't let her go without a quick interrogation about her frankly ludicrously strong digits, not even we could fail to bring that up!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

This week we're joined by the ever affable Jonathan Sin. Jonathan is a talented comp climber and Youtuber from Hong Kong. He's been on a publicised mission to try and get onto his national team and compete at a world cup. We talk about having audacious goals, his lifestyle as a climbing Youtuber and the mental and physical challenges that come with it as well as his insights from his time training in Japan. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823 Support the show

Martin Keller, the Swiss climbing phenom joins us on the pod this week. Martin has achieved a huge amount in his long climbing career (we end up in the weeds talking about his football career for a while but we get there eventually) he's climbed some very big grades and taken down some very long term projects but he's perhaps best known for having done all of his hardest climbing in his 40s. It was great to hear all about it. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please do consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

A special episode this week as we huddle around a microphone in our snowed in apartment in the Yosemite. The audio quality is a little worse than usual but we have fan favourite guest Katie Lamb back to talk about a few hot takes and moral conundrums with the home team (away team this week). It's a good bit of fun.If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Aidan gets dragged by his ears into tiering and ranking all the hardest graded boulders in the world. It's worth noting that Mount Doom from Nicolai Uznik hadn't been done when we recorded it, and there hasn't yet been enough information to grade it anyway. We also ramble on about shoes for about half an hour before we get stuck in. I'll try and put the video version on the Patreon :)If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Joining us this week is the mind-blowing Jesse Dufton. Jesse is a blind climber who leads hard trad routes, sets all his own gear and has a passion for onsighting (or nosighting as he calls it). He has recently featured in two films for the Brit Rock Film Tour called Climbing Blind, and they both make for truly incredible viewing. It was a pleasure to sit down and have a chat with him to better understand his motivations and courage. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please do consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

The ever popular Jim Pope is back to join us this week. He was our fourth ever guest and that was now long enough ago that he's forgotten what an ordeal it was. He's back to catch us up on his last few years, his competition journey, his headspace, his adventures, his foraging and his sewing skills as well as his desert island boulders!Follow w00dwideweb for Jim's shroomin' adventures... If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Nathan is back this week to talk about finishing up his long term project in Brione. Nathan recently climbed Deep Fake, the sit start to the famous Fake Pamplemousse, and proposed a career high grade of 8C+. We chatted about that as well as his approach to route setting and training, his penchant for a mad beta idea and we all had a good laugh at Sam's questionable climbing technique. A good fun chat! :)If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Just the home team this week. Mainly getting an update from Aidan in regards to his trip so far. Seems like the big American adventure is becoming a big Yosemite adventure, and I was curious as to why! We also talk about a few other bits and pieces and I hit Aidan with a little moral conundrum.We've got merch! We've launched the pre-sale of our exclusive T-shirt for our Patroons! If you like the podcast and would like to support us and would perhaps be interested in our sweet T-shirts then please do consider checking out our Patreon account: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823 Support the show

We were excited to have Katie Lamb joining us this week, as well as being one of the most accomplished climbers around we discovered she can ramble with the best of 'em. We chatted about all manner of things including but not limited to the drama around her ascent of Box Therapy, her views on what makes bouldering bouldering, and her feelings about holding down a conventional job alongside her climbing. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Matt Bird swoops in to join us this week, Matt is a rare beast, a manager to some elite climbers like Shauna Coxsey and Will Bosi, but why does a climber need a manager? What does it mean to be a professional climber and how can said climbers play capitalism and get companies to give up some cash to go climb rocks all day? Matt has a totally different perspective from our usual guests, and it was interesting to get a little look behind the curtain!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ooo it's a biggie! It's only the Olympic gold medal winner Toby Roberts! We've been trying to get Toby on for a while and eventually we surprised him with a last minute pod so he wouldn't have time to come up with an excuse! All jokes aside a lovely chat with Britain's new national treasure, it was a great opportunity to get the inside scoop on his Olympic journey and the training behind his legendary strength and power endurance! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us to keep it free and advertisement free then please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Joining us this week is the legend Paul Robinson. A hugely accomplished boulderer who has been living the pro climbing lifestyle for longer than most! He's climbed well over a thousand eighth grade boulders all around the world and he has increasingly documented it himself, firstly with longer films and then shorter YouTube edits. We chat about a wide range of topics and Paul was refreshingly open and honest in his responses and graciously joined in with the rambles! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

It was a long overdue pleasure to be joined by Hamish this week! If you follow him on Instagram then you'll know that he's a deep thinker with an eloquent and unique way of phrasing things. We really appreciate the way he thinks about climbing and it was a pleasure to chat to him. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Sometimes it feels like we're recording a podcast, and sometimes it feels like we're just having a chat which just so happens to be recorded, this one was very much the latter. Just a review of the year really, our favourite moments from our own climbers and from others. A very happy New Year to all of you, if you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please do consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ho Ho Who's up for some quizzing? We've got a Christmas special which is mostly a quiz. Hopefully it's a good laugh... Not much more to say really! Listen to it!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

This week we have a bit of a font of knowledge joining us on the pod! Stian is a coach, a physio, a lecturer, a writer and a hard climber from Norway! He's climbed to a high level and he has been heavily involved in climbing injuries since becoming a physio. He's written a book that will hopefully help climbers be able to diagnose their own injuries and learn how to rehab them appropriately. As a psyched climber himself he understands that climbers are pretty desperate to be able to keep climbing and this really shines through with his recommendations. Really interesting chat, hope you enjoy. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider checking out our Patreon page : https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Hello there, we yoyoed to the other end of the spectrum this week as we got all lathered up in reductive energy and tried to rank the standard bits of equipment by how useful we think they are for rock climbing. If you want to see the visuals then the video (replete with shoddy tier list) is on the Patreon!If you're enjoying this shoddy affair then do check out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Joining us this week is the Canadian strong man Ethan Salvo. Ethan doesn't just send hard climbs he also thinks a lot about his process and has been working to ensure he enjoys the whole experience rather than just the sends. He's also joined Aidan with the attempt to bring back the blog with his articles on substack. https://ethansalvo.substack.com/If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please check out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Hello! It's just the home team again this week discussing Aidan's whereabouts, a quick catchup with what we've both been up to, and then after about 30 mins we get into some beer garden philosophy. Is climbing a sport? Is it more creative or physical? How much of an ego do we have? Can we get rid of it?The sort of stuff we wanted to talk about when we started a podcast in the first place so a bit of a return to form!If you enjoy the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We've scoured the country from top to bottom, searched underneath limestone caves, poured over bones with our fossil brushes, checked under the limestone caves a couple more times and then eventually checked the coastline of the south west and I think we've finally found it. The missing link British rock climbing needed!Solly is back to chat about his big sends and his mischievous shenanigans as well as listen as we debate the merits of a rock type he doesn't like. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Ahoy there landlubbers! A little chat and a catch up from our intrepid sailors this week from a marina in Panama. This adventure is turning into a Where's Wally (inexplicably Waldo for Americans) picture book. We do hope we'll be able to resume our normal service sooner or later, but until then, thanks for tuning in! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

It was a pleasure to have Xian on the pod. We used to climb together when I lived in London years ago, she's a great climber and an all-round good egg. She's a climbing coach and she has her own unique way of looking at climbing where she focusses almost completely on technique and how to climb and doesn't focus on the much covered (and much loved) strength side of the sport. Her book 'Smooth' has recently come out and I try to clumsily go over some of the key concepts from it. Thanks for bearing with us whilst Aidan is sailing in the great blue yonder! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

We managed to squeeze in an episode with Aidan after his Atlantic voyage but before his mega central American traversal. Just a big catch up really as we haven't spoken in a few weeks. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us please consider checking out our Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/c/user?u=70353823Support the show

Aidan is back this week (it was recorded before he left) and we're joined by Nathan Hoette. Nathan works for Scarpa making climbing shoes. He knows everything there is to know about the process that goes in to making climbing shoes, and as it turns out, we didn't know all that much. So we mostly just sat and listened to him. I enjoy talking to people like Nathan, someone who has a real passion and are excited to talk all about it. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us keep it ad free, please consider checking out our Patreon! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Joining me this week, and sadly this week it is just me, is the Moonboarding legend Hoseok Lee. Known very well on instagram for his antics and incredible feats of strength, he's also a really nice guy with an interesting story. Having started relatively late and improved incredibly quickly he has established himself as one of the top Moonboarders and one of the best known Korean climbers. Join us for a general chat about Hoseok's climbing and a bit of Moonboard geekery!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us whilst Aidan is off living the dream : https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

Beth, one of our absolute favourite ever guests is back! Since we last spoke Beth finished her book, released her book, and we've both read her book. So we talk a lot about that, the process of writing it and what we took from it. There are a few tangents and just general chat thrown in as well. If you haven't yet picked up a copy of her book we'd both highly recommend it!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us keep the lights on without advertising then please do consider checking out our Patreon! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

We had a great time chatting to Jorg for this week's episode. We got so carried away we totally didn't realise the time! We chat about a range of stuff, starting with Jorg's reflections on comps, then talking about his mental wellbeing and the mental wellbeing of climbers in general and ending with a chat about the furore around hold fabrication in Spain. It's a good'un!If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to help us to keep it running without advertising then please do consider checking out our Patreon page :)https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

The time has come/has nearly come. Aidan is due to set sail for the new world. He's just been on a trip to Fairhead in Ireland so we also chat a bit about that. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

This week we were psyched to be joined by Ross Fulkerson! An exceptionally strong climber but not one that has lost sight of all other things in life. As obsessional climbers we can be guilty of letting many other experiences fall by the wayside in our relentless pursuit of ascension. Ross has not let that happen and he manages to maintain elite level rock performance whilst also keeping a number of other hobbies. So we dive into that and also talk a lot about mindset and how Ross tries to access a flow-state to help him with his climbing. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the show

It was a pleasure to be joined by Michaela Kiersch this week to talk about incredible achievements on rock, her recent trip to Rocklands without a full set of fingers, outing misogynistic comments on Instagram and so much more!  There's some chat about retrospective grading, small gym communities and board climbing thrown in there as well. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

We were excited to be joined by one of the greats this week. Alex Puccio was a staple in world cup finals for many years, and has also climbed some incredibly hard outdoor boulders. Known to be one of the strongest people on the scene we had a bunch of questions for Alex and we covered a huge amount of ground so we hope you enjoy! If you're enjoying our podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

This week we're joined by Clem Lechaptois! Clem is a phenomenally well accomplished boulderer with 8C+ ascents to his name. We chatted to him about his tactics when choosing projects, how he selects boulders with contrasting styles to supplement his training, the team environments that are most conducive to sending and much more. Clem has a company that makes climbing fingerboard force plates which allows climbers to get access to loads of juicy data in regard to their finger strength! Check them out here: https://www.smartboard-climbing.com/If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

Just us this week with our reactions to the Boulder/Lead Olympic finals, if you're interested in our pre-comp predictions or our reactions to the semi-finals then those are both up as Patroon bonus episodes on the Patreon. We also end with 30 minutes of triple distilled idiocy for those who are sick of talking about the Olympics. If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

Big hitter Matt Fultz joins us this week. Matt's climbing resume speaks for itself, he's near the very top of the list when it comes to sending 8C+ boulders. He's achieved a huge amount and yet still it was fascinating to hear that he is not immune to the same moments of self doubt that the rest of us experience. Matt's a great guy and it was a pleasure to have him on the pod,  we chat about a full range of stuff and could have chatted for hours longer but there's only so much of Matt's precious time we could ask for! If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

Molly has been through a hell of a lot since we last spoke! In that time she has successfully gone through the Olympic Qualifying Series and has booked her place at Paris 2024! We catch up about the hard work and mental pressure it took to get her there as well as what life is like for a member of Team GB. Really cool to be able to get a moment in such a hectic schedule to give you a behind the scenes look! Huge congratulations and good luck to Molly!If you're enjoying our podcast and would like to help us keep the adverts out of it: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

A fellow podcast host and forever an Olympian, Kyra joins us and gives insights into her rather British-board-style training roots, her rock trips amidst busy seasons, her preparations for the Olympic games and her process for managing the psychological repercussions. Note: We take no responsibility for any subsequent competition retirement announcements... If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support it, please consider checking out our Patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

Legend of British Climbing Ben Bransby joins us on the pod this week! Ben is definitely not someone to blow his own trumpet but he has climbed very hard in trad, sport in boulder over the years. He's also put up some incredible first ascents, gone on winter expeditions and even competed! He's done it all so we thought we'd ramble on about some of it for a bit. Make sure you listen to the end for the great stories :).If you're enjoying the podcast and would like to support us, please do consider checking out our Patreon page: https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

A true ramble pod this week bordering on the irreverent in the opening 20 minutes but we do calm down and have a proper discussion eventually! Amongst some wildly off-topic rambles we chat about climbing genetics and we eventually get to the main topic of the podcast which was to attempt to choose which decade of climbing we would have most liked to have been a part of. If you're enjoying this podcast and would like to support us please check out our patreon page! https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.

Tom is back! Tom is a nutritionist that has worked extensively with climbers from all across the grade spectrum. He has a huge wealth of knowledge with all things nutrition but he also has a gift for cutting through the sciencey mumbo-jumbo and offering well simplified and usable advice. We cover a bunch of topics relating to body composition, how to fuel to maximise your training time and we also run through a bunch of supplements to see which ones we should be taking and which ones are best left to the people who are getting them for free! If you're enjoying our podcast and would like to support us please do consider checking out our Patreon, where amongst otherthings you will find an extra half an hour of content from this episode!https://www.patreon.com/user?u=70353823Support the Show.